0\1\1 


AUSA 


LHASM    ON  MHEAUSABLL   KlVL'R 


THE 


and  titvft 


COUNTY  OF  ESSEX,  NEW  YORK ; 


GENERAL  SURVEY  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY,  ITS  MINES 
AND  MINERALS,  AND  INDUSTRIAL  PURSUITS, 


EMBRACING 


AND  ALSO  THE 


MILITARY  ANNALS  OF  THE  FORTRESSES  OF  CROWN 
POINT  AND  TICONDEROGA. 


WINSLOW    C.  WATSON. 

II 


ALBANY,  N.  Y. : 

J.  MUNSELL,  STATE  STREET. 

1869. 


7 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  year  1869, 
By  WINSLOW  C.  WATSON, 

In  the  Clerk's  office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States, 
for  the  Northern  District  of  New  York. 


TO  THE 


HONORABLE  AUGUSTUS  C.  HAND. 


ON  A  FORMER  OCCASION  WHEN  I 


TOUR  NAME  UPON  A  WORK,   I  WAS  INFLUENCED 
BY 

CONSIDERATIONS    OF    RESPECT    AND    FRIENDSHIP. 

IN  ASKING 

YOUR   SANCTION    TO   THIS   VOLUME, 
I  COMBINE  WITH  THESE  SENTIMENTS  A  DESIRE  TO  EXPRESS  MY 

GRATEFUL  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 

FOR  THE  COUNTENANCE  AND  AID    BY  WHICH   MY  LABORS  HAVE  BEEN  SO 
EMINENTLY  RELIEVED, 


FOR  SUGGESTIONS  TO  WHICH  SEVERAL  IMPORTANT  FEATURES 
OF    THE    WORK 

ESSENTIALLY  OWE  THEIR  EXISTENCE. 


THE  AUTHOR. 


E1652J07 


PREFACE. 


In  the  year  1852,  I  received  from  the  State  Agri 
cultural  Society  of  New  York,  an  appointment  that 
required  a  complete  and  careful  exploration  of  the 
county  of  Essex.  In  the  discharge  of  that  mission  I 
visited  nearly  every  school  district  in  the  county; 
made  myself  familiar  with  its  natural  history,  its  phy 
sical  geography,  and  industrial  pursuits,  and  collected 
the  materials  and  traditions  which  form  or  illustrate 
its  history.  The  result  of  these  researches  was  pub 
lished  in  the  volume  of  the  Transactions  of  1852,  as 
"  The  report  on  the  survey  of  Essex  county."  That 
work  suggested  the  present.  The  predominance,  which 
the  circumstances  then  required,  of  the  agricultural  as 
pect  in  the  report,  has  been  wholly  abandoned  in  the 
following  pages,  while  the  historical  sketch  has  been 
expanded  into  an  elaborate  and  connected  history  of 
the  region.  In  discussing  a  subject  so  affluent  and 
interesting  I  have  found  it  necessary  to  prescribe  to 
myself  a  specific  plan.  I  have  attempted  to  present  a 
minute  and  continuous  account  of  events  directly  con 
nected  with  the  fortresses  of  Lake  Champlain  and  of 
military  operations  more  remote,  of  which  they  were 
the  base ;  but  in  referring  to  movements,  in  which  they 
were  only  for  the  time  or  incidentally  the  scene,  my 
pen  has  been  arrested,  when  the  current  of  events 
has  passed  beyond  the  locality. 

The   publication   of  the   documents   collected   in 
Europe  by  Mr.  Brodhead,  under  the  munificent  aus- 


Vi  PREFACE. 

pices  of  the  state,  has  opened  fresh  and  delightful 
fields  to  the  researches  of  the  student  of  our  colonial 
history.  These  rich  mines  of  historic  wealth  would 
have  remained  almost  inaccessible  to  the  ordinary  ex 
plorer,  had  not  the  amazing  labor  and  persevering 
industry  of  Dr.  E.  B.  O'Callaghan  furnished  the  key 
that  unlocks  these  hidden  treasures,  by  his  exact  and 
perfect  index  to  the  massive  folios.  This  invaluable 
work  I  have  freely  used. 

I  have  experienced  great  and  unexpected  embarrass 
ments  in  procuring  materials  for  the  account  of  the 
services  by  the  troops  of  Essex  county.  Stimulated 
by  the  conviction,  that  the  progress  of  a  few  years 
must  obliterate  much  of  the  evidences  of  their  heroic 
devotion,  their  toils  and  triumphs,  1  have  labored  with 
the  utmost  assiduity  and  zeal  to  collect  memorials  that 
might  form  at  least  a  humble  initiation  of  a  movement 
commemorative  of  their  patriotic  services.  In  attempt 
ing  to  place  an  occasional  wreath  upon  the  graves  of 
the  gallant  dead  and  to  add  a  few  leaves  to  the  chap- 
lets  of  the  living,  I  have  indulged  in  a  labor  of  love. 
That  some  companies  and  regiments  have  been  more 
fully  noticed  than  others,  should  not  be  ascribed  to 
any  unjust  or  partial  preference,  but  be  imputed  to  the 
simple  fact,  that  Essex  was  more  largely  represented 
in  the  former  organization,  or  that  my  efforts  to  obtain 
information  have  been  more  successful  in  some  cases 
than  in  others.  I  am  conscious  that  the  results  of  my 
labors  are  inadequate,  and  will  prove,  I  fear,  unsatisfac 
tory  to  the  gallant  men,  whose  deeds  and  sufferings  I 
have  endeavored  to  describe.  I  have  opened  a  path, 
which  I  trust  will  be  pursued  by  more  successful 
explorers. 


PREFACE.  vii 

In  presenting,  as  far  as  my  limited  scope  permits,  a 
sketch  of  the  physical  geography  and  natural  history 
of  the  county,  I  have  not  only  noticed  its  native  pro 
ductions  and  animated  nature,  but  have  attempted  to 
describe  the  remarkable  topographical  features  and 
imposing  scenery,  that  renders  Essex  one  of  the  most 
attractive  and  interesting  sections  of  the  state. 

To  a  notice  of  the  ore  beds  and  mineral  wealth  of 
the  county,  I  have  devoted  a  large  portion  of  my 
volume.  Many  of  the  most  important  of  these  mines 
I  have  personally  visited  and  explored. 

I  trust,  that  every  reader  will  give  to  this  portion 
of  the  work  a  careful  consideration.  The  revelation 
to  their  minds  of  a  mineral  wealth5  so  vast  but  still 
in  the  infancy  of  its  development,  will  excite  astonish 
ment  and  warrant  a  worthy  exultation.  The  account 
of  the  industrial  resources  of  the  district  will  be  read,  I 
think,  with  interest  and  surprise. 

I  have  reproduced  in  this  volume  extensively  from 
my  former  works.  Copious  extracts  from  the  latter 
have  been  recently  appropriated  by  several  authors 
without  any  acknowledgment  I  advert  to  this  fact 
that  I  may  be  screened  from  the  possible  imputation 
hereafter,  of  having  pirated  myself  upon  such  authors. 

I  have  cited  with  care,  as  they  occur,  the  numerous 
authorities  I  have  used  in  the  progress  of  the  work.  I 
mention,  in  the  same  connection  with  grateful  ac 
knowledgments,  individuals  to  whom  I  am  indebted  for 
many  acts  of  courtesy  and  laborious  services  in  sup 
plying  me  with  valuable  original  matter  which  I  have 
largely  incorporated  in  my  work. 

w.  c.  w. 

PORT  KENT,  June,  1869. 


ERRATA. 

Page  17,  fourteenth  line  from  top,  plumage  printed  for  plumes. 
Page  50,  seventh  line  from  bottom,  Honiton  printed  for  Horicon. 
Page  85,  seventh  line  from  top,  hundred  printed  for  thousand. 


THE 


HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY, 


PAET  I. 
MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  DISCOVEKY. 

The  territory,  now  distinguished  by  the  general  designa 
tion  of  the  valley  of  Lake  Champlain  was,  for  nearly  a 
century,  a  debatable  ground  between  the  powers  of  France 
and  England.  Claimed  by  each  under  arbitrary  charters 
or  imaginary  titles,  overrun  and  subverted  in  turn  by  both, 
and  permanently  occupied  by  neither,  it  derived  from  the 
presence  of  their  armies,  little  amelioration  of  its  primitive 
savage  aspect. 

Earlier  than  this  period,  the  same  region  seems  to  have 
been  the  frontier  between  tribes,  or  confederacies  of  tribes 
of  aborigines,  who  waged  a  perpetual  warfare  of  ferocious 
extermination.  These  circumstances,  it  is  probable,  had 
consigned  it  to  desolation,  and  prevented  the  occupation  of 
the  country  by  a  race  which  would  have  been  allured  to 
it  by  the  strong  attractions  to  the  savage  mind,  created  by 
the  profusion  of  its  game  and  fish.  The  possessions  of  the 
Indians  were  apparently  most  extended  and  permanent  on 
the  eastern  shores  of  the  lake.  Few  vestiges  of  their 
existence  have  been  discovered  upon  its  western  borders. 
They  appear,  however,  to  have  congregated  in  numerous 


2  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

villages  along  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  the  interior.  The 
bold  and  lofty  mountains  which  envelop  that  region, 
formed  to  them  a  bulwark  against  the  assaults  of  their 
foes,  while  the  forests  and  the  streams  yielded  an  abundant 
supply  of  their  humble  wants. 

At  an  epoch  nearly  contemporaneous  with  the  discovery 
of  Canada  by  the  French,  the  Roman  energies  and  the 
extraordinary  military  prowess  of  the  Mohawks  appear  to 
have  borne  their  arms  and  established  their  dominion 
almost  to  the  southern  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  A 
tradition  prevailed  in  this  tribe,  that  the  confederacy  in 
which  they  always  maintained  a  military  supremacy, 
occupied  at  one  period,  the  sites  of  both  Montreal  and 
Quebec.  Subjugated  nations  acknowledged  their  domina 
tion  from  the  Connecticut  to  the  wildernesses  of  the  Ohio, 
and  the  tribes  bordering  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  trembled 
before  the  terrors  of  their  arms.1 

In  the  extraordinary  native  eloquence  which  is  imputed  to 
the  aborigines,  the  Iroquois  were  preeminently  conspicuous. 
They  possessed  an  advanced  intelligence,  which  conceived 
and  formed  wise  and  successful  social  institutions.  Their 
progress  in  the  simple  arts  that  belonged  to  savage  life 
was  as  distinguished  as  their  martial  science  or  political 
supremacy.  This  people  asserted  a  sovereignty  over 
northern  New  York,  and  to  their  persistent  valor  we  are 
indebted  for  the  boundary  that  now  separates,  in  a  long 
line,  the  domain  of  the  state  from  the  British  provinces.2* 
The  long  and  narrow  tract  of  water,  known  to  us  as 
Lake  Champlain,  was  doubtless  the  war  path  of  the  Huron 
and  Iroquois,  in  their  mutual  hostile  and  sanguinary  in 
cursions.  The  mind  may  readily  portray  fleets  of  the 
Indian  war  canoes,  caparisoned  in  the  gorgeous  trappings 
of  barbaric  pomp,  bounding  over  the  dark  and  still  waters 

'The  French  "taking  advantage  of  the  Indians  being  abroad  as  far  as 
Cape  Florida,  at  war,  came  down  and  burnt  a  castle  of  the  Maquaes  »  etc  - 
Governor  Dongan's  Report,  1687. 

2  Bancroft. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  g 

of  the  lake,  while  the  paddles  kept  tune  to  the  cadence  of 
their  war  songs;  or  gliding  stealthily  along  the  silent 
shores,  upon  their  mission  of  rapine  and  blood.  The  In 
dian  in  reference  doubtless  to  the  fact  that  it  afforded  an 
avenue  and  facility  to  their  reciprocal  attacks,  gave  to  the 
lake  the  impressive  and  appropriate  name  of  Caniadere 
guarante,  i.  e.  The  lake  that  is  the  gate  of  the  country.1  An 
ally  of  the  Hurons,  Champlain,  accompanied  them  in  one 
of  these  incursions,  and  revealed  to  the  civilized  world  the 
beautiful  lake  which  has  immortalized  his  own  name. 

France  entered  with  ardor  and  enthusiasm  into  the 
great  struggle  of  the  age,  the  field  of  exploration  upon 
the  new  continent.  The  zeal  and  enterprise  of  the  fisher 
men  of  Normandy  has  already  discovered  and  penetrated 
the  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  Cartier,  a  French  adventurer, 
entered  in  1534,  the  mighty  river  of  that  name.  The 
succeeding  year,  he  guided  to  his  new  discovery,  under 
the  auspices  of  the  royal  government,  a  fleet,  freighted 
with  many  of  the  young  nobility  of  France,  and  blessed 
by  the  prayers  and  sanctions  of  the  church.  They  de 
parted  in  high  hopes  and  with  brilliant  auguries  to  colonize 
this  new  France.  Ascending  the  majestic  stream,  which 
was  called  Hochelaga,  by  the  natives,  but  named  from 
its  mighty  estuary,  by  Cartier,  the  St.  Lawrence,  they 
moored  at  what  is  now  known  as  the  Isle  of  Orleans. 
Cartier,  from  this  point  penetrated  to  the  Indian  town  of 
Hochelaga,  and  to  this  he  gave  the  name  of  Mont-Eoyal, 
the  beautiful  and  opulent  Montreal  of  modern  times.  In 
his  progress  up  the  St.  Lawrence,  he  was  greeted  by  the 
simple-minded  and  confiding  natives  with  all  the  demon 
strations  of  joy  and  festivity  known  to  savage  homage. 
Hochelaga  was  the  chief  town  of  a  populous  nation  which 
occupied  both  banks  of  the  river,  and  extended  their  pos 
sessions  far  below  Quebec.  From  their  dialect  and  insti- 


1  Documentary  History.  Petaoribough,  signifying  a  double  pond  or  lake 
branching  out  into  two,  is  another  aboriginal  appellation,  probably  referring 
to  its  connection  with  Lake  George. — R.  W.  Livingston,  Esq. 


4  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

tutions  it  has  been  inferred,  that  they  were  a  branch  of 
the  Iroquois.  The  arrival  of  Cartier  was  celebrated  by  a 
multitude  of  the  people,  who  poured  forth  from  the  pali 
sades  of  their  capital  to  meet  him  on  the  shore  of  the 
island,  bearing  the  offerings  of  their  joyousness  and  hospi 
tality.  Large  openings  in  the  forest  had  been  formed  by 
their  rude  toils,  and  here  luxuriant  crops  of  rnaize  attested 
their  industry  and  the  fertility  of  the  earth. 

At  Hochelaga,  Cartier  listened  to  the  Indians'  vague  and 
shadowy  tales  of  an  unexplored  region  of  lakes,  of  moun 
tains  and  delightful  plains.  He  ascended  an  eminence 
that  arose  from  the  centre  of  the  island  and  from  its  sum 
mit,  the  first  of  civilized  men,  gazed  upon  the  majestic 
and  beautiful  scenery  that  enraptured  his  vision.  The 
broad  stream,  the  islands  that  gemmed  it,  the  cultivated 
fields  of  the  Indians  were  before  him,  and  far  to  the  south 
beyond  the  glittering  river,  and  the  sea  of  forests  that 
spread  on  every  side,  his  eye  rested  on  the  mountains  of 
Vermont  and  New  York.  The  ensuing  winter  was  passed 
by  the  adventurers  at  the  Isle  of  Orleans  amid  intense 
sufferings  from  the  rigors  of  the  climate  and  the  presence 
of  disease. 

Having  taken  possession  of  the  country,  with  all  the 
prescribed  pomp  and  formulas  of  chivalry  and  religion, 
the  colonization  was  abandoned  and  the  expedition  re 
turned  early  in  the  season,  to  the  mother  country.  On 
the  previous  voyage,  Cartier  had  kidnapped  and  carried 
to  France,  two  Indian  youths,  who  now  served  him  as 
guides  in  the  exploration  of  the  unknown  Hochelaga. 
Emulating  the  infamy  of  the  Spanish  conquerors,  when 
returning  from  his  last  voyage,  he  inveigled  into  his  vessel 
Donnegana,  the  chieftain,  who  had  proved  a  generous  host 
and  firm  friend,  and  bore  him  with  several  of  his  nobles, 
into  a  hopeless  captivity,  in  a  strange  land,  and  to  death. 
This  exploration  ended  thus  inauspiciously,  and  the  climate 
and  country  presenting  to  the  children  of  sunny  France, 
so  few  allurements,  all  schemes  of  further  colonization 
seem  to  have  slumbered,  for  several  years.  The  Lord  of 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  5 

Roberval  received  in  1540  a  commission  from  the  French 
king,  conferring  on  him  an  immense  and  almost  illimita 
ble  territory,  and  which  dignified  him  with  the  plenary 
powers  of  vice-royalty. 

This  parchment  title  and  these  titular  functions  over 
shadowed  a  vast  region,  and  extended  in  every  direction 
along  the  gulf  and  river  St.  Lawrence,  comprehending  in 
its  wide  domain  the  present  limits  of  New  England  and 
Northern  New  York.  The  efforts,  emanating  from  this 
authority,  appear  to  have  terminated  without  accomplish 
ing  any  progress  either  in  colonization  or  discovery. 

During  the  half  century  succeeding  the  failure  of 
Roberval,  the  subject  of  New  France  was  unheeded  amid 
the  convulsions  and  conflicts  of  the  religious  wars  by 
which  the  kingdom  in  that  period  was  torn  and  agitated. 
In  1598,  another  abortive  attempt,  under  governmental 
patronage,  was  made  by  De  La  Roche,  to  colonize  the 
region  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  by  disgorging  upon  its  shores 
the  convicts  from  the  dungeons  and  jails  of  France. 

Private  enterprise,  unfolding  the  only  just  and  secure 
basis  of  colonization  of  that  region,  by  associating  it  with 
the  fur  trade,  initiated  the  first  successful  effort.  In  1600, 
Chauvin  had  obtained  a  comprehensive  patent,  which 
formed  a  monopoly  of  that  trade.  Repeated  and  prosper 
ous  voyages  had  been  made,  and  settlements  were  about 
being  formed,  when  the  death  of  Chauvin  dissolved  the 
organization. 

The  year  1603  was  signalized  by  the  enterprise  of 
Aymer  De  Chastes  and  a  body  of  merchants  of  Rouen,  who 
animated  by  this  success  organized  a  new  company  with 
similar  purposes,  which  was  rendered  memorable  by  the 
introduction  into  the  field  of  his  future  labors  and  glory, 
the  founder  of  the  new  empire,  and  the  leader  who  was 
preeminently  great  in  the  long  series  of  brilliant  men, 
that  guided  and  moulded  the  destinities  of  new  France. 
Samuel  De  Champlain  was  one  of  those  rare  and  excep 
tional  men  who  seem  to  stamp  an  impress  of  their  own 
characters  upon  the  age  they  illustrate  and  adorn.  Cham- 


6  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

plain  was  a  native  of  France,  and  of  noble  lineage. 
Peculiarly  imbued  with  the  impulsive  and  impetuous 
spirit  of  his  country,  animated  by  a  bold  and  reckless 
courage,  rejoicing  in  dangers  and  toils,  his  intuitive 
sagacity  enabled  him  to  surmount  those  obstacles  that  his 
intelligence  and  prescience  could  not  anticipate  and  avoid. 
Enthusiastic,  persevering  and  indefatigable  in  his  purposes, 
he  devoted  all  the  powers  of  his  active  mind  and  the 
energies  of  his  nature  to  the  achievement  of  the  great 
object  of  his  life,  the  exploration  of  the  wildernesses  of  the 
new  world,  and  the  creation  in  their  recesses  of  a  new 
empire  to  his  country.  De  Soto  discovered  the  Missis 
sippi,  but  while  he  found  an  appropriate  mausoleum 
beneath  its  dark  waters,  left  no  memorial  of  his  name. 
Dhamplain,  more  fortunate,  made  his  discovery  a  mo 
nument,  which  has  perpetuated  alike  his  services  and  his 
memory. 

^  A  rapid  glance  at  the  history  of  a  man  so  remarkable 
for  his  intellectual  and  moral  greatness,  for  his  chivalrous 
exploits  and  the  vastness  of  his  services,  and  whose  name 

s  imperishably  associated  with  the  lake,  that  is  alike  the 
ornament  and  the  commercial  power  of  the  district,  the 
annals  of  which  we  propose  to  discuss,  is  appropriate,  and 
should  possess  deep  interest.     His  own  abundant  writings, 
with  the  memorials  of  his  cotemporaries  and  associates, 
have  rendered  posterity  familiar  with  events  which  impart 
an  enduring  and  brilliant  lustre  to  his  name.     Champlain 
was  born  at  Brouage,  a  seaport  situated  on  the  Bay  of 
Biscay.     Addicted  to  an  intercourse  with  the  sea  by  the 
associations  of  his  boyhood,  near  the  most  tempestuous 
waters  of  western  Europe,  he  gratified  his  instincts  by  a 
connection  at  an  early  age  with  the  royal  marine  of  his 
native  country.     Although  a  catholic  by  birth  and  senti 
ment,  he  followed  in  the  civil  wars  of  France,  the  «  ban 
ner  of  Navarre."     When  that  cause  had  triumphed    he 
received  a  pension  from  the  gratitude  of  his  liberal  but 
impoverished  leader.     Too  active  and  ardent  to  indulge 
in  the  relaxations  of  peace,  he  conceived  the  design  o/a 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  7 

personal  exploration  of  the  colonial  possessions  of  Spain, 
and  to  thus  obtain  a  knowledge  of  their  condition  and 
resources,  which  was  studiously  veiled  from  the  world  by 
the  jealous  policy  of  that  government.  His  scheme  was 
sanctioned  by  the  wise  and  sagacious  head  of  the  French 
administration.  Through  the  influence  of  a  relative  in 
that  service,  Champlain  secured  the  command  of  a  ship 
in  the  Spanish  West  India  fleet.  This  singular  position, 
not  perhaps  in  perfect  accordance  with  modern  concep 
tions  of  professional  honor,  was  occupied  two  years,  and 
when  he  returned  to  France  his  mind  was  stored  with  the 
most  valuable  information,  and  his  journal,  laded  with 
the  results  of  keen  observation  of  the  regions  he  had 
visited,  was  strangely  illustrated  by  his  uncultivated  pen 
cil.  Champlain  was  unusually  impressible  by  the  spirit  of 
the  times,  which  delighted  in  the  marvelous,  and  his  work 
is  singularly  disfigured  by  representations  of  strange 
beasts,  and  accounts  of  miraculous  events,  and  vet  it  is 
marked  by  his  great  ability,  and  by  his  eminently  clear 
and  comprehensive  perceptions.  He  landed  at  Vera  Cruz, 
penetrated  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  and  visited  Panama. 
His  journal  reveals  the  bold  conception  of  a  ship  canal 
across  the  isthmus,  by  which,  he  says,  "  the  voyage  to  the 
South  sea  might  be  shortened  by  more  than  fifteen  hun 
dred  leagues."  In  this  grasp  of  his  investigating  mind, 
Champlain  anticipated  by  more  than  two  centuries,  the 
slowly  moving  projects  of  the  present  age. 

Returning  to  the  court  of  Henry,  Champlain  met  De 
Chartes,  who  had  been  a  comrade  in  battling  against  the 
league,  and  who,  although  crowned  by  years  and  honors, 
had  just  obtained  from  the  government  a  patent  empower 
ing  him  to  bear  the  cross,  and  to  extend  the  power  of 
France  into  the  unexplored  wilds  of  the  new  continent. 
Champlain,  from  his  professional  ability  and  great  expe 
rience  would  be  an  invaluable  associate,  and  invited  by 
De  Chartes,  he  promptly  and  zealously  embarked  in  an 
enterprise,  so  peculiarly  in  conformity  with  his  spirit,  and 
which  was  destined  to  attach  to  his  name  an  immortality. 


8  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUtf  TY. 

The  intrepid  adventurers,  embarking  in  two  small  shallops 
of  twelve  and  fifteen  tons  burden,  plunged  into  the  North 
ern  sea.  Their  voyage  was  prosperous,  and  after  a  sur- 
prizingly  short  passage,  they  entered  the  St.  Lawrence 
and  at  once  advanced  to  Hochelaga.  There  all  was 
changed.  The  palisaded  city  that  Cartier  sixty-eight 
years  before  had  visited,  was  gone,  and  in  place  of  the 
dense  population  he  described,  Champlain  only  met  a  few 
wandering  savages  of  another  race  and  language.  These 
Indians  aroused  the  deepest  interest  in  his  investigating 
mind,  as  they  delineated  in  a  coarse  diagram  upon  the 
vessel's  deck,  the  regions  along  which  the  immense  river 
flowed,  and  lakes  from  whence  they  traced  its  source.  A 
new  creation  was  unfolded  to  the  vision  of  the  explorer, 
and  his  fancy  doubtless  reveled  in  glowing  anticipations 
of  future  discoveries  and  conquests,  alike  of  the  cross  and 
the  lilies  of  France.  When  Champlain  returned  to 
France,  De  Chastes,  his  protector,  and  the  earnest  patron 
of  his  enterprise,  was  dead ;  but  the  Sieur  De  Monts,  a 
protestant  gentleman  of  character  and  high  position,  was 
already  maintaining  his  privileges,  and  preparing  to  pur 
sue  his  colonial  schemes.  Under  the  broad  shield  of 
government  patronage,  De  Monts  had  obtained  an  ample 
patent,  conferring  plenary  commercial  rights,  with  vice 
regal  powers,  over  a  vast  territory  stretching  its  nominal 
dominion  from  near  Philadelphia  on  the  south,  to  the 
forty-sixth  degree  parallel  on  the  north,  with  an  indefinite 
expansion,  both  east  and  west.  Here  within  its  ample 
border,  there  was  to  prevail  perfect  freedom  in  religious 
immunities.  The  colony  which  De  Monts  undertook  to 
guide  to  New  France,  was  singularly  jarring  and  incoherent 
in  its  elements.  The  gentleman  and  noble  associated  with 
the  sweepings  of  the  prisons  and  convict  ships  of  France, 
while  the  disciple  of  Rome  mingled  with  the  followers  of 
Calvin.  Such  incongruities  disclosed  strange  scenes.1 


Champlain  quaintly  remarks  in  his  journal :  "  I  have  seen  our  cure  and 
the  minister  fall  to  with  their  fists  on  questions  of  faith.     I  cannot  say 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  9 

Be  Monts,  in  the  assertion  of  bis  assumed  sovereignty  over 
this  immense  territory,  made  an  effort  to  colonize  Acadia, 
and  occupied  under  this  parchment  title,  a  portion  of 
Maine.  Port  Royal  was  founded  by  a  companion  of  De 
Monts,  and  was  the  first  European  settlement  permanently 
established  north  of  St.  Augustine.  Champlain  was  asso 
ciated  with  his  accustomed  prominence  and  efficiency,  in 
all  these  enterprises,  from  1604  to  1607.  In  that  period 
he  explored  the  shores  of  New  England  south  to  Cape 
Cod,  which,  from  the  white  sand,  he  named  Cape  Blanc.1 
With  an  eye  of  science  and  observation,  each  of  the  har 
bors,  streams,  and  estuaries  of  the  coast  was  examined. 
He  projected  from  this  survey  an  accurate  map  and 
chart,  "  remaining,"  as  he  remarks,  a  second  winter,  "  in 
order,  with  the  help  of  God,  to  finish  the  chart  of  the 
coast  which  I  had  begun."  This  chart  was  subsequently 
published  with  his  works,  and  is  remarkable  among  the 
innumerable  trophies  of  skill  and  industry  exhibited  by  the 
French  in  their  explorations  upon  the  western  continent. 

At  length,  amid  the  changes  and  vicissitudes  which 
marked  the  age,  the  prerogatives  of  De  Monts  were  abro 
gated  with  the  same  readiness  and  ease  with  which  they 
had  been  created.  Champlain  and  Pourtraincourt,  upon 
whom  De  Monts,  in  his  decaying  fortunes,  had  conferred 
what  remained  of  his  franchises,  and  acting  under  them, 
in  1606,  made  another  voyage  to  New  France  in  search 
of  further  discoveries,  and  with  the  design  of  forming  a 
colony,  based  upon  the  novel  idea  of  an  agricultural  settle 
ment.  They  explored  the  New  England  coast  still  more 
widely,  fought  a  battle  with  the  natives,  on  the  eastern 
shore  of  Cape  Cod,  wintered  in  unwonted  comfort  and 
luxuriance  in  their  new  settlement,  and  the  next  year 
— — . * 

which,  had  the  more  pluck,  or  which  hit  the  harder ;  but  I  know  the  minister 
sometimes  complained  to  the  Sieur  De  Monts,  that  he  had  been  beaten.  I 
leave  you  to  judge  if  it  was  a  pleasant  eight : 

"  And  prove  their  doctrines  orthodox, 
By  apostolic  blows  and  knocks." 
'Thoreau. 


10  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

abandoning  their  project,  returned  to  France.  The  te 
dium  of  the  route  was  beguiled  in  the  excitable  and  gay 
spirit  of  their  country.  They  instituted  the  festive  order 
of  de  bon  temps,  fraternized  with  their  Indian  neighbors,  and 
rejoiced  in  general  hilarity  and  abundance. 

In  the  year  1608,  five  years  after  his  advent  upon  the 
waters  of  St.  Lawrence,  Champlain  embarked  in  a  more 
energetic   and   systematic   effort  to   form   a    permanent 
colony  upon  its  banks.     He  embarked  in  a  small  vessel 
freighted  with  the  elements  of  an  earnest  colonization,  and 
bearing  the  germ  of  a  new  empire,  accompanied  by  his 
former  associate,  Portgrave,  in  another  vessel,  laden  with 
materials  adapted  to  their  projected  fur  trade.     Advancing 
up  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  examining  its  shores  with  a  saga 
cious  scrutiny,  his  judgment  discerned,  and  his  military 
science  adopted  a  bold  rocky  promontory,  at  the  confluence 
of  the  St.  Charles  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  as  the  site  of  the 
capital  of  that  empire,  which  to  his  ardent  and  fertile  im 
agination,  was  disclosed  in  the  visions  of  the  future,  great, 
glorious,  and  prosperous.     At  once,  laborers  and  artizans 
were  actively  employed  in  removing  the  forests,  and  prepar 
ing  materials  for  the  erection  of  dwellings  and  other  struc 
tures.     Soon  the  simple  edifices  arose,  that  asserted  the 
presence  of  civilized  man,  and  established  his  perpetual  do 
mination  upon  the  mighty  stream,  whose  fountains  welled 
up  more  than  eighteen  hundred  miles  in  the  remote  soli 
tudes  of  the  western  wilds,  and  whose  volume  rolled  to  the 
ocean  the  tribute  of  more  than  a  million  of  square  miles.1 
Here  Champlain  erected  fortifications  formed  of  timber,  for 
the  safety  of  his  infant  settlement.     A  garden  sprang  up 
within  its  protecting  walls,  under  the  refined  and  graceful 
tastes  of  the  cultivated  pioneer.     He  was  not  exempt,  how 
ever,  from  the  usual  cares  and  trials  that  attend  the  birth  of 
remote  and  secluded  colonies.     A  contemplated  treachery 
that  compassed  his  own  death,  he  avenged  by  a  prompt 
and   stern   retribution.     In   the   succeeding   September, 

'Guyot. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  H 

Portgrave  sailed  for  France,  leaving  Champlain  to  occupy 
Quebec  with  twenty-eight  men,  until  his  return  in  the 
spring  with  supplies  and  additional  colonists.  What  were 
the  occupations  of  Champlain  through  the  dark  and 
gloomy  weeks  of  autumn,  and  in  the  winter  rigors  of  an 
almost  arctic  climate?  We  can  only  surmise  from  our 
own  conjectures,  and  the  faint  glimmerings  of  light  his 
journal  affords.  He  tells  us,  that  he  trapped  foxes,  and 
was  amused  in  watching  the  futile  efforts  of  the  martins 
to  seize  the  carcass  of  a  dead  dog  he  had  suspended  from 
a  tree  beyond  their  reach.  But  in  fancy,  we  may  discern 
him,  with  active  zeal,  employed  in  tracing  and  illustrating 
his  journals,  and  wrapt  in  profound  reveries,  pondering  on 
the  hopes  and  projects  of  the  future.  The  Indians  gathered 
about  his  wooden  ramparts ;  now,  with  a  present  supply, 
yielding  to  their  insatiate  habits  of  gluttony ;  and  now,  in 
the  wasting  pangs  of  famine.  He  doubtless  heard  their 
wild  legends,  and  was  amused  and  aroused  by  their  stories 
of  savage  warfare  with  the  Iroquois,  their  hereditary  foes, 
whose  far  distant  country,  they  described  as  a  fair  land, 
and  delineated  in  their  simple  art,  the  lakes  and  streams 
which  must  be  traversed  to  reach  it. 

Before  the  dissolving  ice  and  bursting  vegetation  miti 
gated  their  sufferings  and  presaged  the  approach  of  spring, 
the  scurvy,  the  fell  scourge  of  every  northern  colony,  had 
desolated  the  little  band ;  and  when  Pontgrave's  vessel 
appeared,  only  eight  pale  and  emaciated  survivors  re 
mained  to  rejoice  in  the  relief  it  afforded.  A  consultation 
between  the  leaders  decided,  that  Pontgrave  should  re 
main  to  guard  the  safety  of  Quebec,  and  that  Champlain 
should  pursue  the  project,  which  was  the  dream  and  pur 
pose  of  every  exploration  of  the  age,  and  attempt  the 
discovery  of  an  avenue  to  the  eastern  world.  This  hope 
possibly  inflamed  the  passions,  which  led  him  to  accept  the 
invitation  of  the  Indians,  to  unite  with  them  in  a  contem 
plated  war  party,  which  was  intended  to  penetrate  deeply 
into  the  regions,  upon  which  his  mind  had  expatiated 
during  the  weeks  and  months  of  his  gloomy  seclusion. 


12  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

In  May,  1609,  he  joined  the  camp  of  his  savage  allies, 
and  while  they  looked  in  speechless  wonder  upon  the 
strange  apparition  of  a  steel  clad  warrior,  armed  with 
weapons  that  discharged  the  lightning,  he  witnessed  with 
scarcely  less  interest  the  war  dances  of  the  Indians,  mov 
ing  by  the  wild  tones  of  their  music,  chanting  their  war 
songs  and  brandishing  their  stone-pointed  tomahawks. 
He  engaged  at  their  council  tire,  attended  their  war  feast, 
and  mingled  in  all  their  barbaric  rites.  These  mystic 
ceremonies  performed,  they  proceeded  upon  their  advance 
into  a  hostile  and  to  him  an  unknown  country.  Cham- 
plain  embarked  in  a  small  boat  with  eleven  European  com 
panions  and  proceeded  to  the  mouth  of  the  modern  Sorel, 
where  the  party  was  augmented  by  large  numbers  of 
savages  from  the  upper  lakes ;  but  here  dissension  arose, 
and  a  great  part  of  the  Indian  warriors  returned  to  their 
homes.  Champlain  dismissed  to  Quebec  all  but  two  of 
his  European  followers.  To  these  were  added  a  force  of 
sixty  Indians,  with  a  fleet  of  twenty-four  canoes.  A  com 
mon  or  timid  mind  would  have  shrank  from  the  appalling 
view  of  the  future,  abandoned  by  feeble  allies,  and  left 
almost  alone  to  the  resources  of  his  individual  courage 
and  unyielding  energies,  but  he  saw  before  him  the  beam 
ings  of  glory  and  honor  that  awaited  the  revelation  of  a 
new  region ;  he  contemplated  the  rich  country,  the  lakes, 
the  islands,  the  streams  that  had  been  portrayed  to  his 
imagination,  and  he  fearlessly  and  joyously  entered  upon 
his  dubious  mission.  Champlain,  as  he  did  in  all  his 
explorations,  gave  to  the  world  a  minute  and  graphic 
account  of  this  expedition,  and  so  exact  is  his  accuracy 
that  the  traveler  may  still  trace  his  route  and  the  scenes 
he  describes.  These  productions  are  not  alone  interest 
ing,  as  they  portray  the  incidents  of  a  singularly  wild  and 
romantic  career ;  but  they  are  of  infinite  value,  as  they 
illustrate  savage  life  and  exhibit  their  primitive  habits 
and  tactics  when  on  the  war  path. 

On  the  2d  of  July,  the  party  effected  the  transit  of 
the  Chambly  rapids,  and,  having  advanced  some  leagues  up 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.    .  13 

the  river,  prepared  to  encamp.  A  part  of  the  savages, 
actively  engaged  in  cutting  down  timber  and  peeling  it 
to  procure  bark  to  cover  their  lodges,  while  others  were 
felling  large  trees  to  form  a  temporary  barricade.  This, 
Champlain  considered  very  formidable.  The  side  of  the 
encampment  next  to  the  river  was  not  fortified,  in  order  to 
facilitate  retreat  to  the  canoes,  if  necessary.  The  Indians 
dispatched  three  canoes  in  advance  to  reconnoitre,  and,  if 
nothing  was  discovered,  to  retire.  Upon  this  exploration, 
they  wholly  dependedfor  safety  duringthe  night."  Against 
"  this  bad  habit  of  theirs  "  Champlain  expostulated,  but  with 
little  effect  upon  a  confirmed  custom.  They  represented  to 
him,  that  in  war  they  were  accustomed  to  divide  their  forces 
into  three  parts :  one  of  which  hunted  to  supply  provi 
sions  ;  another  always  ready  for  battle  marched  in  a  compact 
body ;  and  the  other  formed  the  vanguard  and  advanced  in 
front  to  scout,  and  to  ascertain  the  trail  of  a  foe  or  friends. 
This  they  readily  determined  by  certain  marks,  which  the 
chiefs  of  the  different  nations  interchanged,  and  which  upon 
reciprocal  notices  were  occasionally  altered.  The  hunters 
never  advance  before  the  main  body,  but  pursue  their 
duties  in  the  rear  and  in  a  direction  where  they  do  not 
expect  the  presence  of  an  enemy.  In  this  manner  they 
proceed  until  they  approach  the  enemy's  country, 
when  they  advance  "stealthily  by  night,  all  in  a  body 
except  the  scouts,  and  retire  by  day  into  picket  forts 
where  they  repose."  They  make  no  noise  nor  "  build  a 
fire,  except  to  smoke,  and  eat  dried  meal  which  they  steep 
in  water." 

The  second  day,  the  party  entered  "  the  mouth  of  the 
lake,"  and  saw  "  a  number  of  beautiful  islands  filled  with 
fine  woods  and  prairies."  "  Game  and  wild  animals, 
abounded  on  these  islands.  Passing  onward,  the  lake  in  its 
widest  expanse  burst  upon  their  view,  in  the  beauty  and 
grandeur  of  its  verdant  shores,  and  its  emerald  islands,  em 
braced  in  its  lofty  and  rugged  mountain  ramparts.  Cham- 
plain  describes  the  larger  islands,  and  the  rivers  that 
"  discharged  into  the  lake  surrounded  by  fine  trees  similar 


14  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

to  those  we  have  in  France,  with  a  quantity  of  vines,1 
"  handsomer  than  I  ever  saw,  and  a  great  many  chestnuts." 

Keferring  to  the  exuberance  of  the  fish  in  the  lake, 
Champlain  related  some  wild  tales  of  his  savage  allies. 
"  Continuing  their  route"  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake, 
he  says,  "  and  contemplating  the  country,  I  saw  very  high 
mountains  on  the  east  side  covered  with  snow,"  and  he  ob 
served  "  others  to  the  south  not  less  high  but  without  snow." 
The  Indians  informed  him  "  that  here  were  beautiful 
valleys  and  fields,  fertile  in  corn,  with  an  infinitude  of 
other  fruits,  and  that  this  country  was  inhabited  by  the 
Iroquois."  2 

They  said,  that  the  country  they  designed  to  attack  was 
thickly  settled  ;  that  to  reach  it  they  must  pass  by  a  water 
fall,  thence  into  another  lake ;  from  the  head  of  which  there 
was  a  transit  to  a  river,  which  flowed  towards  the  coast. 
The  course  of  their  projected  campaign  is  thus  intelligently 
unfolded  to  us.  We  discern  a  distinct  description  of  their 
route,  by  the  falls  at  Ticonderoga ;  the  passage  of  Lake 
George,  and  the  Hudson  with  its  intervening  transit ;  and 
the  populous  country  of  the  Mohawks.  Some  village  pro 
bably  upon  the  banks  of  the  Hudson  was  the  point  of  their 
destination,  and  to  become  the  scene  of  their  ravages. 

1  The  wild  grape  vine  is  yet  a  striking  feature  in  the  natural  products  of 
the  Champlain  valley,  where  it  grows  in  great  profusion,  and  often  attains 
an  immense  magnitude,  frequently  embracing  the  loftiest  trees  in  its  treache 
rous  and  serpentine  folds,  and  towering  far  above  them,  while  its  branches 
spread  in  every  direction  along  the  forest.  I  conjecture,  that  Champlain 
must  have  confounded  the  chestnut  with  the  butternut  tree,  which  occurs 
in  abundance  and  of  vast  size  in  those  localities.  In  a  careful  survey  in 
1852  of  Essex  county,  I  did  not  find  a  single  chestnut  tree  growing  in  a  native 
forest  north  of  Ticonderoga. 

a  The  presence  of  snow  upon  the  mountains  of  Vermont,  none  of  which  ex 
ceeds  five  thousand  feet  in  height,  in  July  is  incredible,  and  Champlain  was 
probably  deceived  by  an  optical  illusion  produced  by  clouds  or  mist.  I  am 
inclined,  however,  to  conjecture  that  the  words  "  west "  and  "  east "  have 
been  transposed.  From  the  east  side  of  the  lake  he  might  have  seen  the 
bold  and  naked  peak  of  Whiteface  from  which  that  mountain  derives  its 
present  name.  It  is  situated  in  the  town  of  Wilmington,  Essex  county,  and 
stands  out  isolated  and  prominent,  with  its  white  summit  a  conspicuous  ob 
ject,  which  for  many  miles  may  be  observed  from  the  lake. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  15 

Whatever  might  have  been  their  purpose,  it  was  abruptly 
arrested  by  a  hostile  apparition,  that  suddenly  crossed  their 
path.  CHamplain  with  exquisite  power  vividly  paints  the 
scenes  that  followed  :  "At  nightfall  we  embarked  in  our 
canoes,  and  as  we  advanced  very  softly  and  noiselessly,  we 
encountered  a  war  party  of  Iroquois,  on  the  twenty-ninth 
of  the  month,  about  ten  o'clock  at  night,  at  the  point  of  a 
cape  which  juts  into  the  lake  on  the  west  side.1  They  and 
we  began  to  shout,  seizing  our  arms.  We  withdrew  to  the 
water,  and  the  Iroquois  repaired  on  shore,  arranged  their 
canoes  together  and  began  to  hew  down  trees  with  villain 
ous  axes,  which  they  sometimes  got  in  war,  and  others  of 
stone,  and  fortified  themselves  very  securely.  Our  party, 
likewise,  kept  their  canoes  one  alongside  of  the  other, 
tied  to  poles,  so  as  not  to  run  adrift,  in  order  to  fight  alto 
gether  should  need  be.  When  in  order,  they  sent  two 
canoes  to  know  if  their  enemies  wished  to  fight,  who 
answered  that  they  desired  nothing  else,  but  that  just  then, 
there  was  not  light  to  distinguish  each  other  and  that  they 
would  fight  at  sunrise.  This  was  agreed  to.  Meanwhile 
on  both  sides  the  night  was  spent  in  dancing  and  singing, 
mingled  with  an  infinitude  of  insults  and  other  taunts ;  such 
as  how  little  courage  they  had,  how  powerless  their  arms, 
and  this  they  should  experience  to  their  ruin.  Ours,  like 
wise  did  not  fail  in  repartee  ;  telling  them  they  should  wit 
ness  the  effects  of  arms  they  had  never  before  seen.  After 
they  had  sung,  danced  and  parliamented  enough,  the  day 
broke.  My  companions  and  I  were  always  concealed  but 
in  separate  canoes  of  the  savage  Montagners.2 


1 1  compress  this  narrative  as  far  as  possible,  and  hope  to  preserve  the 
spirit  of  the  text. 

2  This  name  was  applied  to  all  the  St.  Lawrence  Indians,  and  was  derived 
from  a  range  of  mountains  extending  north-westerly  from  near  Quebec. 
Dr.  E.  B.  O'Callaghan's  note  on  Champlain.  The  term  Iroquois,  equivalent 
to  the  Five  Nations,  is  used  in  the  translations  of  Champlain's  works  to 
avoid  confusion,  but  was  of  course  unknown  at  the  period  of  these  events. 
The  Mohawks  were  known  as  Maquaes  by  the  Dutch,  and  Agnies  by  the 
Canadian  Indians.  The  Iroquois  designated  themselves  Aquanu  Schioni, 
the  United  People. 


16  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

"  After  being  equipped  with  light  armor,  each  took  an 
arquebus  and  went  ashore.  I  saw  the  enemy  leave  their 
barricade.  They  were  about  two  hundred  men,  strong 
and  robust,  who  were  coming  towards  us  with  a  gravity 
and  assurance  that  greatly  pleased  me,  led  on  by  three 
chiefs.  Ours  were  marching  in  similar  order,  who  told  me 
that  those  who  bore  the  three  lofty  plumes  were  the  chiefs, 
and  that  I  must  do  all  I  could  to  kill  them. '  I  promised 
to  do  the  best  I  could.  The  moment  we  landed,  they 
began  to  run  towards  the  enemy,  who  stood  firm,  and  had 
not  yet  perceived  my  companion,  who  went  into  the  bush 
with  some  savages.  Ours  commenced  calling  on  me  with 
a  loud  voice,  opening  way  for  and  placing  me  at  their  head 
about  twenty  paces  in  advance,  until  I  was  about  thirty 
paces  from  the  enemy.  The  moment  they  saw  me  they 
halted,  gazing  at  me  and  I  at  them.  When  I  saw  them 
preparing  to  shoot  at  us,  I  raised  my  arquebus  and  aiming 
directly  at  one  of  the  three  chiefs,  two  of  them  fell  to 
the  ground  by  this  shot,  and  one  of  their  companions 
received  a  wound  of  which  he  died  afterwards.  I  had  put 
four  balls  in  my  arquebus.  Ours  on  witnessing  a  shot  so 
favorable  to  them,  set  up  such  tremendous  shouts,  that 
thunder  could  not  have  been  heard,  and  yet  there  was 
no  lack  of  arrows  on  one  side  or  the  other.  The  Iroquois 
were  greatly  astonished  at  seeing  two  men  killed  so  instant 
aneously,  notwithstanding  they  were  provided  with  arrow 
proof  armor  woven  of  cotton  thread  and  wood ;  this  fright 
ened  them  very  much.1 

"Whilst  I  was  reloading,  one  of  my  companions  fired  a 
shot,  which  so  astonished  them  anew,  seeing  their 
chiefs  slain,  that  they  lost  courage,  took  to  flight,  and 


1  The  allusion  to  this  armor  presents  an  interesting  and  suggestive  in 
quiry.  We  know  of  the  product  of  no  indigenous  plant,  which  Champlain 
might  have  mistaken  for  cotton.  He  must  have  been  familiar  with  that 
plant.  The  fact  he  mentions  implies  either  the  existence  of  a  commer 
cial  intercourse  between  the  natives  of  the  north  and  south  ;  or  perhaps 
the  Mohawks  may  have  secured  the  cotton  as  a  trophy  in  some  of  their 
southern  incursions. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  17 

abandoned  the  field  and  their  fort,  hiding'  in  the  depth 
of  the  forest,  whither  pursuing  them  I  killed  some  others. 
Our  savages  also  killed  several  of  them,  and  took  ten  or 
twelve  prisoners.  The  rest  carried  off  the  wounded.  Fif 
teen  or  sixteen  of  ours  were  wounded ;  these  were  promptly 
cured. "  These  events  are  portrayed  in  language,  so  simple, 
clear  and  descriptive  that  we  behold  it  almost  as  if  the  eye 
rested  on  the  spectacle.  We  seem  to  hear  the  cool  and 
chivalric  postponement  of  the  battle;  the  war  songs  and 
chants  of  triumph  and  defiance ;  we  Witness  the  skill  and 
cunning  of  the  Hurons,  in  disguising  the  presence  of  their 
potent  allies ;  we  see  the  marshaling  of  the  hostile  bands ; 
the  lofty  forms  of  the  Iroquois  chiefs,  decorated  with  their 
waving  plumage  and  distinguished  by  their  armor;  their 
astonishment  without  blanching  at  the  sudden  appearance 
of  the  Europeans ;  the  intrepid  Frenchman  advancing  in 
front  of  the  Hurons ;  the  awe  and  consternation  with  which 
the  Iroquois  see  the  flash  of  the  arquebus,  hear  the  report  and 
behold  their  chieftains  slain  as  by  the  thunderbolt.  The 
scene  should  demand  the  tribute  of  a  more  graceful  art 
than  the  uncouth  pencil  of  Champlain.  "After  having 
gained  this  victory  they  amused  themselves  plundering 
Indian  corn  and  meal  from  the  enemy,  and  also  their 
arms,  which  they  had  thrown  away  the  better  to  run. 
And  having  feasted,  danced  and  sung  we  returned  three 
hours  afterwards  with  the  prisoners." 

Such  was  the  first  meeting  of  the  Christian  white  man 
and  the  pagan  savage  upon  the  soil  of  New  York,  but  its 
atrocities  may  be  referred  rather  to  the  temper  of  the  age 
than  to  any  individual  malignity  of  Champlain.  This  event 
enkindled  a  hatred  towards  the  Frenchman  in  the  heart  of 
the  Mohawks,  that  was  un appeased  by  the  streams  of  blood 
that  for  a  century  and  a  half  flowed  beneath  the  tomahawk 
and  scalping  knife.  It  is  a  singular  coincidence,  and  may  it 
not  be  regarded  as  significant  of  the  presence  and  retribu 
tion  of  an  overruling  providence,  that  the  first  aboriginal 
blood  shecl  by  the  Christian  invader,  and  shed  ruthlessly  and 


18  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

in  wantonness,  was  on  the  soil  which  in  another  age,  was 
destined  to  witness  the  sanguinary  though  fruitless  conflicts 
of  the  mightiest  powers  of  Christendom  for  the  possession 
of  the  same  territory;  that  both  moistened  with  their 
choicest  blood,  and  which  neither  was  permitted  perma 
nently  to  enjoy? 

Champlain  places  the  site  of  this  battle  "  in  forty-three 
degrees  and  some  minutes."  Great  precision  could  not 
have  been  secured  under  the  circumstances,  in  his  astro 
nomical  observations.  The  place  was  evidently  in  the 
vicinity  of  Ticonderoga.1 

Champlain  looking  forth  from  the  field  of  battle,  upon  the 
placid  water  that  laved  the  spot,  and  probably  exultingin  the 
pride  of  even  such  a  victory,  thus  baptized  with  innocent 
blood,  named  the  lake,  Champlain.  His  countrymen  in 
succeeding  years  would  have  substituted  the  name  of  Mer 
des  Iroquois,  but  the  Anglo-Saxon  and  posterity  averted 
the  wrong  —  for  the  latter  name  was  not  known  to  the  no 
menclature  of  the  Indian  — and  the  lake  still  perpetuates  the 
memory  of  its  discoverer.  On  the  retreat  of  this  expedi 
tion,  Champlain  was  constrained  to  witness  one  of  those 
appalling  scenes  incident  to  Indian  warfare,  the  torture 
of  a  prisoner.  This  terrific  spectacle  occurred,  it  is  sup 
posed,  within  the  present  limits  of  Willsboro'.  The  suffer 
ings  of  the  victim,  inflicted  in  all  the  intensity  and 
refinement  of  savage  barbarity,  which  he  in  vain  attempted 
to  avert,  were,  in  mercy,  closed  by  the  arquebus  of 
Champlain. 

A  few  weeks  later,  Hudson  cautiously  pursuing  the  tidal 
waters  of  the  stream  to  which  posterity  has  attached  his 
name,  penetrated  to  a  point  within  less  than  one  hundred 
miles  of  the  advance  of  Charaplain,  but  more  than  eleven 


1 1  confidently  assume  this  position,  although  a  somewhat  controverted 
point,  from  the  distinct  designation  of  the  place  upon  Champlain's  own  map. 
I  feel  assured  on  this  subject  by  several  other  considerations,  which  I  deem 
conclusive.  He  probably  saw  the  falls  at  Ticonderoga,  in  the  pursuit  which 
succeeded  the  victory.  They  had  no  motive  in  accordance  with  the  plan 
of  the  campaign  to  have  advanced  south  of  that  place  by  the  lake. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  19 

years  elapsed  before  the  May-Flower  approached  the  shores 
of  New  England. 

The  ensuing  year,  Charaplain  was  again  moving  amid 
the  voluptuous  circles  of  Versailles,  its  animating  spirit, 
thrilling  and  agitating  the  gay  throng  by  the  recital  of  the 
wonders  of  the  new  world  and  his  own  wild  and  strange 
adventures.  Early  in  the  spring,  still  under  the  auspices 
of  De  Monts  who,  although  shorn  of  his  vast  prerogatives , 
persisted  with  unabated  ardor  in  his  colonial  schemes, 
Champlain  once  more  crossed  the  Atlantic.  He  ascended 
the  St.  Lawrence  to  an  island  near  the  mouth  of  the  Riche 
lieu,  and  while  engaged  in  the  orgies  of  an  Indian  feast  and 
war  dance  connected  with  a  solemn  council,  the  approach 
of  a  band  of  Iroquois  was  announced.  All  rushed  to  the 
assault  of  the  barricade  of  the  foe.  The  contest  was  long 
and  bloody,  but  victory  was  necessarily  with  the  allies.  In 
accordance  with  Indian  custom  this  decisive  success  termi 
nated  the  campaign,  and  closed  to  Champlain  all  immediate 
prospect  of  exploration  and  discovery.  The  opening  season 
of  1611  saw  Champlain  again  entering  the  St.  Lawrence. 
He  selected  the  position  and  marked  out  the  foundations  of 
Montreal ;  but  fresh  obstacles,  interposed  by  the  fickle  and 
versatile  Hurons,  arrested  his  contemplated  advance  into 
the  interior.  While  delayed  by  these  impediments,  Cham- 
plain,  always  delighting  in  peril  and  adventure,  among  the 
first  of  civilized  men,  descended  the  tremendous  rapids  of 
St.  Louis,  in  a  frail  birchen  canoe  guided  by  an  Indian 
pilot.  But  anarchy  and  ruin  were  darkly  impending  over 
the  struggling  colony;  Henry,  his  firm  and  powerful  pro 
tector,  had  fallen  beneath  the  knife  of  Ravillac.  Champlain 
hastened  across  the  Atlantic,  his  enthusiasm  enlisted  the 
sympathy  and  interest  of  the  nobility,  and  secured  the  ap 
pointment  first  of  the  Count  De  Soissons,  and  upon  his 
death,  that  of  the  Prince  De  Conde  as  guardian  and  pro 
tector  of  New  France,  with  all  the  prerogatives  of  vice- 
royalty.  In  1612  Champlain  returned  to  Quebec,  clothed 
with  the  power  and  insignia  of  sovereignty,  delegated  to 
him  by  De  Conde.  Allured  by  wild  tales  of  a  vast  north- 


20  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

era  sea  beyond  the  headwaters  of  the  Ottawa,  Cham  plain, 
the  next  year,  with  infinite  peril  and  toil,  ascended  that 
gloomy  and  turbulent  stream  in  a  light  Indian  canoe; 
and  there  in  the  deep  recesses  of  the  forest,  which  have 
even  now  scarcely  been  approached  by  the  arts  of  civil 
ized  industry,  he  dwelt  in  their  wigwams,  feasted  and 
danced,  harangued  at  the  council  fire,  and  erected  the 
cross.  Deceived  and  disappointed,  he  reluctantly  aban 
doned  the  pursuit  of  the  fabulous  sea. 

Montreal,  fostered  by  the  protection  and  policy  of 
Cham  plain,  was  already  a  trading  mart  of  importance  and 
activity,  where  the  French  traders,  bearing  the  products 
and  gewgaws  of  other  climes,  assembled  to  meet  the 
fleets  of  Indian  canoes  which  descended  the  Ottawa  and 
St.  Lawrence,  laded  with  the  spoils  of  their  widely  ex 
panded  hunting  grounds.  The  interposition  of  Conde 
had  obtained  the  grant  of  a  new  concession  from  the 
government,  which  conferred  on  the  association  of  mer 
chants  immense  prerogatives,  confirming  the  former  pa 
tent  and  creating  additional  immunities,  and,  in  1615, 
Champlain,  inspired  by  new  ardor,  and  with  an  ambition 
stimulated  afresh,  embarked,  once  again,  for  the  scene  of 
his  toils  and  hopes.  At  this  time,  equally  zealous  for  the 
diffusion  of  the  true  faith,  as  he  was  energetic  in  promot 
ing  the  temporal  interests  of  the  colony,  he  induced  seve 
ral  Franciscan  monks  to  accompany  him.  A  formal 
council  was  held  with  the  tribes  gathered  at  Montreal, 
and  while  the  Fathers  were  attempting  to  inculcate  re 
ligious  truths,  Champlain  was  engaged  in  maturing 
schemes  more  consonant  with  savage  passions.  By  this 
rude  treaty  he  agreed  to  unite  with  the  Indians  resid 
ing  upon  the  waters  of  the  vast  inland  lakes,  they  dimly 
described,  who,  invincible  in  his  alliance  proposed  to 
descend  from  their  far  distant  land,  like  a  destroying 
tempest  upon  the  western  tribes  of  the  dreaded  Iroquois. 
Champlain  avers  that  he  enlisted  in  this  enterprise  "  to 
satisfy  the  desire  I  had  of  learning  something  about  that 
country."  Le  Caron,  one  of  the  Franciscans,  not  less 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  21 

determined  and  intrepid  than  Champlain,  offered  alone 
to  accompany  the  Huron s  to  their  remote  wigwams,  and 
the  humble  missionary  was  the  first  European  who  gazed 
upon  the  wide  waters  of  Lake  Huron.  Champlain,  again 
encountering  the  perilous  navigation  of  the  Ottawa,  and 
threading  the  long  pathway  of  the  Indians  reached  the 
Lake  Nepissing,  and  from  thence  was  guided  by  the  In 
dians  to  the  shores  of  a  majestic  sea,  whose  expanse  of 
waters  was  alone  bounded  by  the  horizon.  He  contem 
plated  it  with  wonder  and  delight,  and  named  it  the  "  Mer- 
douce,"  to  which  posterity,  with  more  aptness,  has  given 
the  name  of  Lake  Huron,  Champlain  stood  on  the  north 
ern  shores  of  Huron,  a  thousand  miles  from  the  Atlantic, 
five  years  before  the  foot  of  the  puritan  pilgrim  rested  on 
the  rock  at  Plymouth.  The  provident  savage  hosts  had 
constructed  for  his  use  a  small  cabin.  Here  Champlain 
found  Le  Caron,  who  had  built  an  altar  and  erected  the 
cross,  and  joined  by  the  fourteen  Frenchmen  who  had 
accompanied  them,  the  mass  was  said  and  the  Te  Deum 
chanted  in  this  humble  temple,  and  we  may  conceive,  with  a 
solemnity  and  fervor,  that  does  not  always  mark  the  wor 
ship  of  a  groined  Cathedral. 

Amid  a  national  jubilee  the  Huron  warriors  gathered 
from  their  scattered  villages,  and  embarking  their  formida 
ble  bands  in  an  immense  flotilla  of  birch  canoes,  they 
skirted  the  eastern  coast  of  the  lake,  bore  their  canoes  over 
a  transit  into  Lake  Simcoe,  descending  the  Trent  river 
entered  into  the  great  lake  of  the  Autonoronons,  the  modern 
Ontario.  They  traversed  with  singular  temerity  in  vessels 
so  frail,  its  broad  waters,  and  concealing  their  canoes  upon 
its  southern  shore,  they  advanced  into  the  territory  of  the 
Autonoronons  or  Senecas.  After  marching  several  days, 
in  which  Champlain  was  revolted  by  exhibitions  in  varied 
and  horrid  forms  of  savage  barbarity  and  habits  of  warfare, 
they  arrived  before  the  enemy's  fort.1  The  garrison  was 

1  Commentators  on  Champlain's  journal  are  not  harmonious  in  locating 
this  scene.  Some  assume  it  to  have  been  near  Lake  Onondaga,  while  others 
refer  it  to  the  vicinity  of  Canandaigua. 


22  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

formed  by  the  puissant  Senecas,  second  only  among  the 
Iroquois  to  the  Mohawks  in  power  and  martial  prowess. 
The  works  were  constructed  with  an  intelligence  and 
science,  far  superior  to  any  evidences  of  skill  that  Champlaiii 
had  witnessed  among  the  aborigines.  The  village  was 
enclosed  by  strong  palisades  of  timbers,  thirty  feet  high, 
interlocked  with  intervals  of  about  six  inches  between, 
with  galleries  forming  a  parapet,  defended  by  timbers 
"proof  against  the  arquebuses."  Gutters  were  led  from  a 
pond  of  water  on  one  side,  which  afforded  ample  facilities 
for  extinguishing  fires  that  might  be  enkindled  against  the 
barricades. 

The  appearance  of  the  iron  clad  strangers  and  the  terrific 
discharge  of  their  unknown  weapons,  astonished  and 
startled,  but  excited  no  craven  or  panic  fears  in  the  daunt 
less  Iroquois.  Fighting  with  admirable  valor,  they  re 
treated  within  their  fortifications.  Under  the  direction  of 
Champlain,  the  Hurons  constructed  a  tower  higher  than 
the  walls  with  a  protection  against  the  arrows  and  stones 
of  the  Iroquois,  which  was  "carried  by  two  hundred  of  the 
strongest  men  and  placed  within  a  pike's  length  in  front." 
On  this  "  were  posted  four  arquebusiers."  An  effort  was 
made  by  the  Hurons  to  burn  the  palisades,  but  the  fire  was 
promptly  extinguished.  "They  went  to  the  water  and 
discharged  in  it  such  abundance,  that  rivers,  it  maybe  said, 
spouted  from  their  gutters."  The  Senecas,  although  suffer 
ing  severely  from  the  arquebuses,  fought  with  an  undaunted 
courage,  that  extorted  the  admiration  of  Champlain,  and 
far  surpassed  their  savage  foes  in  conduct,  taunting  them 
with  cowardice  in  enlisting  the  white  men  in  their  quarrels. 
The  science  and  tactics  of  Champlain  were  totally  defeated 
by  the  perpetual  improvidence  and  insubordination  of  his 
Indian  allies.  "  This  moved  him,"  he  says,  "  to  use  some 
pretty  rude  and  angry  words,"  but  he  generously  remarks: 
"they  are  excusable,  for  they  are  not  soldiers." 

The  discomfited  arid  intractable  Hurons,  after  a  siege  of 
several  days,  in  spite  of  the  expostulations  of  Champlain, 
determined  to  abandon  the  enterprise  and  retreat.  He, 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  23 

wounded  by  arrows  in  the  knee  and  leg,  was  bound  to  the 
back  of  a  vigorous  savage,  "  like  an  infant  in  its  swaddling 
clothes,"  and  carried  many  leagues,  until  his  impatience 
and  suffering  revolted.1 

Although  he  denounces  in  bitterness  and  vexation  the 
absence  of  discipline,  obedience  and  system  with  the 
Indians,  he  warmly  commends  the  skill  they  exhibited  in 
effecting  their  retreat,  "  placing  the  wounded  and  old 
people  in  the  centre,  the  warriors  without  breaking  their 
lines  march  in  front,  on  the  wings  and  in  the  rear." 

The  winter  that  was  approaching,  the  bold  and  indomi 
table  pioneer  passed  in  the  gloomy  lodge  of  a  Huron  chief, 
and  in  visiting  the  more  remote  tribes  of  the  Algonquins ;  in 
the  care  of  his  wounds,  in  the  reveries  of  his  sleepless  mind, 
and  in  communing  with  the  savages  on  the  themes  which 
invigorated  his  energies  and  continually  fired  his  imagina 
tion.  But  he  who  had  braved  death  on  so  many  battle-fields 
and  amid  the  storms  of  the  ocean,  nearly  lost  his  life  from 
cold  and  exposure  in  the  bleak  forest  of  the  Algonquins. 
Hunting  on  a  dark  day  at  the  close  of  autumn  without  a 
compass,  he  lost  his  course,  and  wandered  nearly  three 
days  bewildered  in  the  masses  of  a  trackless  wood.  When 
the  frosts  of  winter  had  transformed  the  streams  and 
morasses  into  icy  avenues,  Champlain  again  sought  the 
villages  of  the  Mpissings.  He  found  the  devout  Le  Caron 
in  the  same  solitary  wigwam,  occupied  in  his  missionary 
services,  arranging  a  catechism  and  studying  the  Huron 
dialect.  With  the  anchorite,  Champlain  spent  several 
weeks,  and  then  together,  the  soldier  and  the  monk  stimu 
lated  by  the  same  brave  and  lofty  spirit,  but  wielding  far 
different  weapons,  visited  in  remote  regions  amid  the  wild 
recesses  of  nature  tribes  of  savages  before  unknown  to  the 
Christian  world. 

Once  more  restored  to  active  life  and  civilization,  Cham- 
plain  erected,  in  defiance  of  the  grovelling  cupidity  of 

1  Tnis  is  his  language  :  "  As  soon  as  I  could  bear  my  weight  I  got  out  of 
this  prison  ;  or,  to  speak  plainer,  out  of  hell." 


24  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

superiors,  the  castle  of  St.  Louis.  When  the  expense  was 
grudged,  "It  was  not  best,"  he  said,  "  to  yield  to  the 
passions  of  men,  they  sway  but  for  a  season,  it  is  duty  to 
respect  the  future."  Returning  from  one  of  his  period 
ical  visits  to  France  in  1616,  Champlain  bore  with  him 
his  wife,  young  and  beautiful,  whose  charms  seem  to  have 
melted  the  stoicism  of  the  children  of  the  forest  into 
delighted  admiration. 

In  1628,  he  gloriously  defended  Quebec  from  an  attack 
of  the  English,  almost  without  arms  or  provisions,  by  the 
glory  of  his  name  and  the  energy  of  his  courage,  and  only 
capitulated  his  famishing  garrison  when  the  last  hope  of 
relief  had  failed.  But  it  was  an  abortive  triumph  to  his 
conqueror.  Peace  soon  gave  Champlain  his  liberty,  and 
restored  Quebec  to  France. 

Before  and  subsequent  to  these  events,  the  checkered 
career  of  the  explorer  had  been  impressed  by  perpetual 
trials,  perplexities  and  vicissitudes,  with  alternate  depres 
sions,  and  a  return  to  power  and  position.  Vanquishing 
by  his  inflexible  perseverance  and  profound  sagacity  the 
hostilities  of  rivals  and  the  evasions  of  a  despotic  govern 
ment,  he  returned  the  last  time  in  1633,  to  the  state  his 
wisdom  and  zeal  had  created,  invested  by  Richelieu  with 
all  his  former  prerogatives.  Having  suppressed  the  Indian 
excitement  which  had  agitated  his  province,  conciliated 
the  jarring  jealousies  and  angry  feuds  of  mercenary  traders 
and  arbitrary  officials,  and  amply  ass  erted  and  perfected  the 
dominion  of  his  sovereign  over  a  vast  region,  Champlain 
died  in  1635,  and  is  commemorated  in  the  annals  of  the 
country  he  served  so  ably  and  with  such  fidelity  as  "  the 
father  of  New  France." 

Champlain  has  no  peer,  either  in  the  brilliant  lists  of 
French  or  Anglo-Saxon  discoverers  of  the  age,  in  the 
magnitude  of  his  services,  the  hardy  daring  of  his  exploits, 
in  the  courage  and  ability  by  which  he  achieved  them  or 
the  capacious  grasp  of  intellect  that  moulded  the  destinies 

1  Bancroft. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  25 

of  half  a  continent.  Twenty  times  he  crossed  the  Atlantic1 
in  tiny  shallops  from  twelve  to  twenty  tons,  scarcely  equal 
to  an  ordinary  fishing  boat,  and  with  a  celerity  that  is 
rarely  surpassed  in  the  voyages  of 'the  present  day ;  he  ex 
plored  boundless  forests,  penetrated  unknown  lakes,  over 
came  the  turbulence  of  wild  and  strange  rivers,  associated 
with  the  savages  in  every  form,  encountered  dangers  and 
toils  in  it  all  their  aspects,  and  gave  to  his  country  a  do 
main  far  more  magnificent  in  its  proportions  than  the 
territories  of  the  proudest  kingdom  of  Europe.  In  an  age 
reeking  with  venality,  he  never  descended  from  his  lofty 
pursuits  to  contend  for  sordid  wealth  or  emolument. 
Nurtured  in  a  licentious  court,  even  when  removed  from 
the  restraints  of  society,  his  piety  and  virtue  attracted  the 
wonder  and  excited  the  reverence  of  his  savage  asso 
ciates.  His  justice  and  good  faith  created  an  unbounded 
ascendancy  throughout  the  wide-spread  Algonquin  tribes, 
and  in  after  years  their  love  and  veneration  still  lived 
undiminished  for  "  the  man  with  the  iron  breast."2 


CHAPTER  II. 
INDIAN  AND  COLONIAL  WARS. 

I  am  not  aware  that  any  evidence  exists,  that  the  en 
virons  of  Lake  Champlain  witnessed  the  missionary  labors 
of  the  Jesuits  ;  but  we  can  with  difficulty  believe,  that  a 
region  so  near  and  accessible,  would  have  been  unexplored 
by  the  deep  devotion  and  ardent  enthusiasm,  which  im 
pelled  them  to  bear  the  cross  and  to  find  their  neophytes 
upon  the  remote  shores  of  Lake  Superior. 

The  policy  inaugurated  by  Charnplain  and  pursued  as  a 
cardinal  principle  by  the  vice-regal  government,  in  form- 

1  Thoreau. 

2  For  the  materials  of  this  chapter,  in  addition  to  the  journals  of  Cham- 
plain  and  his  cotemporaries,  and  the  general  historians,  I  am  largely  indebted 
to  the  facts  compiled  by  Mr  Parkman,  and  the  views  expressed  in  the  glow 
ing  and  nervous  pages  of  Thoreau. 


26  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

ing  an  intimate  alliance  with  the  Algonquins,  although 
successful  in  its  immediate  object,  the  cherishing  of  the 
union  and  affections  of  the  tribes  of  New  France,  in  its 
results,  excited  the  unyielding  feuds  and  hostility  of  the 
formidable  Mohawks,  and  entailed  upon  the  French  more 
than  a  century  of  fierce  and  bloody  savage  warfare.  The 
western  tribes  of  the  Iroquois  rarely  yielded  to  the  sub 
jects  of  France,  but  the  stern  and  implacable  Mohawks, 
never.  Between  them  and  France  occasional  periods  of 
peace  or  rather  armed  truces  intervened,  but  at  no  time 
did  there  exist  a  cordial  harmony,  when  "  the  hatchet 
was  buried  too  deeply  to  be  uncovered." 

The  French  government,  while  it  maintained  the  sove 
reignty  of  New  France,  wielded  a  powerful  influence  over 
all  the  aboriginal  tribes,  within  its  vast  limits.     The  pre 
ponderance  of  England,  even  in  the   councils  of  the  Iro 
quois,  was  often  disputed  by  France,  and  rendered  by  her 
machinations,  precarious  and  inefficient.     The  "  chain  of 
friendship,"  between  France  and  the  confederacies  of  the 
Hurons  and  Algonquins  never  was  broken  or  became  dim. 
The  gay  and  joyous  manners  of  the  French  won  the  heart 
of  the  savage.     The  solemn  grandeur,  and  the  imposing 
formulas  and  pomp  of  the  catholic  rituals,  attracted  his 
wonder  and  admiration  and  fascinated  his  senses,  if  they 
did  not  subdue  his  feelings.     His  appetites  were  pampered, 
and  his  wants  supplied  with  a  lavish  prodigality,  the  re 
sult  perhaps  of  governmental  policy  rather  than   that  of 
Christian  charity.     To  the  mind  of  the  Indian,  these  traits 
of  the  French  were  favorably  contrasted  with  the   cold, 
severe,  and  repulsive  habits  of  the  Englishman,  with  the 
unimposing  forms  of  his  religious  rites,  and  with  the  close 
and  parsimonious  guard  the  British  government  held  over 
its  treasury  and  store  houses. 

The  annals  of  Lake  Champlain  is  a  blood-stained  recital 
of  mutual  atrocities.  The  feuds  of  the  peoples  of  Europe 
and  the  malignant  passions  of  European  sovereigns,  armed 
the  colonies  of  England  and  the  provinces  of  France,  in 
conflicts  where  the  ordinary  ferocity  of  border  warfare, 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  27 

was  aggravated  by  the  relentless  atrocities  of  savage  bar 
barism.  Each  power  emulated  the  other,  in  the  consum 
mation  of  its  schemes  of  blood  and  rapine.  Hostile  Indian 
tribes,  panting  for  slaughter,  were  let  loose  along  the 
whole  frontier,  upon  feeble  settlements,  struggling  amid 
the  dense  forest,  with  a  rigorous  climate  and  reluctant 
soil,  for  a  precarious  existence.  Unprotected  mothers, 
helpless  infancy  and  decrepit  age,  were  equally  the  victims 
of  the  torch,  the  tomahawk  and  scalping  knife.  Lake 
Champlain  was  the  great  pathway,  equally  accessible  and 
useful  to  both  parties,  of  these  bloody  and  devastating 
forays.  In  the  season  of  navigation,  they  glided  over  the 
placid  waters  of  the  lake,  with  ease  and  celerity,  in  the 
bark  canoes  of  the  Indians.  The  ice  of  winter  afforded 
them  a  broad,  crystal  highway,  with  no  obstruction  of 
forest  or  mountain,  of  ravine  or  river.  If  deep  and 
impassable  snows  rested  upon  its  bosom,  snow  shoes  were 
readily  constructed,  and  secured  and  facilitated  their 
march. 

Although  this  system  of  reciprocal  desolation  impeded 
the  progress  of  civilization  in  the  territories  of  each  power, 
and  repelled  from  the  frontier,  bordering  upon  the  lake, 
all  agricultural  and  industrial  occupations,  both  England 
and  France  asserted  an  exclusive  right  to  the  dominion 
of  the  territory.  France  based  her  claims  of  sovereignty 
upon  the  discovery  of  Acadia,  and  the  gulf  and  river 
St.  Lawrence,  and  subsequently  upon  the  discoveries  of 
Champlain.  Before  that  event  we  have  seen,  she  had 
conveyed  to  De  Monts  a  parchment  title  to  the  entire  re 
gion  extending  to  the  meridian  of  Philadelphia.  The 
original  charter  of  Virginia  asserted  the  claim  of  England 
to  the  45th  parallel  of  latitude,  while  the  other  grants 
extended  her  sovereignty  to  the  waters  of  the  St.  Law 
rence.  The  ultimate  acquisition  of  the  title  of  Holland, 
by  the  cession  of  isTew  Netherlands,  fortified  these  preten 
sions,  which  England  alleged  were  matured  by  the  re 
cognition  in  the  treaty  of  Utrecht,  of  her  paramount 
sovereignty  over  the  possessions  of  the  Iroquois,  or  as  the 


28  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Iroquois  assumed  a  broad  and  formal  protectorate  as  a 
trust  for  their  benefit  and  safety.  Blood  and  treasures 
were  profusely  expended  in  the  assertion  of  hostile  claims, 
founded  on  these  ideal  assumptions  to  a  rude  and 
howling  wilderness.1  A  long  series  of  ferocious  but  inde 
cisive  wars  prevailed  between  the  French  and  the  Iroquois, 
signalized  by  mutual  woes  and  cruelties,  and  by  alterna 
tions  of  victory  and  defeat.  To  avenge  former  sufferings 
as  well  as  to  arrest  future  incursions,  the  government  of 
ISTew  France,  in  1665,  determined  to  attempt  the  destruc 
tion  of  the  fastnesses  of  the  Mohawks.  The  annals  of  war 
exhibit  scarcely  a  parallel  to  the  daring  intrepidity,  the 
exposure  and  suffering  of  that  expedition. 

The  point  of  contemplated  attack  was  distant  almost 
three  hundred  miles,  and  to  secure  the  more  perfect 
secrecy,  and  an  assurance  of  surprise,  the  season  selected 
was  the  most  rigorous  of  winter.  "  M.  Courcelles,  the 
governor  of  Canada,  on  the  29th  of  December,  1665,  began 
his  march  with  scarcely  six  hundred  men,  to  seek  out 
their  inveterate  enemies,  the  Mohawks."  The  snow  that 
covered  the  ground,  "  although  four  feet  deep,  was  hard 
frozen."  The  French  were  enabled,  by  the  aid  of  the 
Indian  snow  shoes,  to  march  rapidly  along  this  surface. 
The  use  of  horses  was  impossible,  and  it  was  equally  im 
practicable  for  the  troops,  who  consisted  of  about  equal 
proportions  of  Indians  and  whites,  to  carry  on  an  expedi 
tion  so  long  and  laborious,  with  their  own  supplies.  "  The 

1  The  clause  in  the  treaty  of  Utrecht,  which  bears  upon  this  question  and 
which  excited  for  many  years  elaborate  and  angry  diplomatic  discussions  is 
this :  "  The  subjects  of  France  inhabiting  Canada  and  others,  shall  in  future 
give  no  hindrance  or  molestation  to  the  Five  Nations  or  cantons  of  Indians, 
subject  to  the  dominion  of  Great  Britain,  nor  to  the  other  natives  of  Ame 
rica  who  are  in  friendly  alliance  with  them.  In  like  manner,  the  subjects 
of  Great  Britain  shall  behave  themselves  peaceably  towards  the  Americans 
who  are  the  friends  or  subjects  of  France  and  they  shall  enjoy  on  both  sides 
full  liberty  of  resort  for  purposes  of  trade."  The  treaty  secures  to  the  In 
dians,  equal  freedom,  "  to  resort  to  the  colonies  of  either  power  for  trade,"  and 
then  continues,  "  but  who  are  and  who  ought  to  be  accounted  subjects  and 
friends  of  Britain  and  France  is  a  matter  to  be  accurately  and  distinctly 
settled  by  commissioners." —  Doc.  Col.  Ilist.,  ix,  964. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  29 

governor  caused  slight  sledges  to  be  made  in  good  num 
bers,  laying  provisions  upon  them,  drew  them  over  the 
snow  with  mastiff  dogs."  l  Thus  traversing  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  they  had  at  night,  no  covering  but  the  clouds,  the 
freshly  fallen  snow,  or  the  boughs  of  the  forest.  Sur 
mounting  perils  and  toils  like  these,  the  French  approached 
the  Mohawk  territory;  but  bewildered  amid  pathless 
snows,  and  exhausted  and  paralyzed  by  cold  and  hunger, 
they  were  only  preserved  from  destruction  by  the  active 
although  ill-requited  beneficence  of  a  small  Dutch  settle 
ment,  standing  on  the  outer  verge  of  civilization.  The 
potent  influence  and  urgent  intercessions  of  a  prominent, 
although  private  citizen  of  Schenectady,  averted  from  the 
suffering  and  defenseless  Frenchmen,  the  vengeance  of 
the  exasperated  Mohawks.  It  is  rare  that  an  individual, 
who,  like  Arent  Van  Corlear,  moves  quietly  along  in 
life  without  any  prominence  by  official  station,  or  brilliant 
deeds,  secures  the  universal  reverence  of  both  friends  and 
foes,  while  living,  and  to  his  name  an  honored  place  in 
history,  by  the  pure  force  of  probity  and  beneficence. 
Deeply  loved  by  the  Indians  for  his  integrity  and  virtues, 
his  influence  over  them  was  unbounded,  and  long  after  his 
death,  they  were  accustomed,  in  their  speeches  and  treaties, 
as  the  term  of  highest  respect  and  reverence  known  to 
their  hearts,  to  call  the  governor  of  New  York  —  Corlear.2 
His  benevolent  zeal  in  the  preservation  of  the  forces  of 
De  Courcelles,  was  gratefully  acknowledged  by  the  colonial 
government,  and  De  Tracy,  the  governor  general,  with 
expressions  of  the  warmest  regard,  urged  on  him  a  visit 
to  Quebec.3  In  the  year  1667,  Corlear  accepted  a  courtesy 
so  marked,  and  with  the  purpose  of  aiding  in  the  negotia 
tion  of  a  peace  between  the  French  and  Mohawks,  accom 
panied  by  erribassadors  of  the  Iroquois,  who,  at  his  request, 
had  received  a  safe  conduct,  commenced  the  long  and 
perilous  journey.  While  making  the  passage  of  Lake 

1  Relations  of  the  march,  etc.,  Doc.  Col.  Hist.,  in,  118. 

2  Idem,  m,  559,  et  passim.     3Idem,  in,  128, 152, 


30  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Champlaiu,  "  he  was  drowned  by  a  sudden  squall  of  wind, 
in  crossing  a  great  bay."  l  I  have  no  hesitation  in  refer 
ring  to  Pereu  or  Willsboro'  bay,  in  Essex  county,  as  the 
scene  of  this  catastrophe.2  The  lake,  for  many  years 
afterwards,  was  known  as  Coiiear's  lake ; 3  and  locali 
ties  and  the  scenes  of  events  are  frequently  established  in 
documents  of  the  period,  by  references  to  the  "  place  where 
Corlear  was  drowned."4  It  is  an  impressive  and  almost 
painful  commentary  upon  the  practice  of  the  age,  as  I 
remarked  upon  an  analogous  instance  in  the  life  of  Cham- 
plain,  that  the  purity  of  Corlear  did  not  shrink,  while 
thus  shielded  by  the  mantle  of  an  honored  guest,  from 
the  very  equivocal  "  promise  to  perfect  the  chart  of  the 
lake,  with  the  French  forts,  and  how  it  borders  on  the 
Maquais  river."5  We  will  not  resist  the  emotions  of  a 
sad  and  tender  sensibility,  when  we  reflect  that  this  noble 
and  benignant  man,  on  a  mission  of  peace  and  concilia 
tion,  found  a  grave  beneath  the  waters  of  Champlain,  and 
within  the  borders  of  our  own  country. 

A  treaty  of  professed  peace  succeeded  this  event,  but  it 
seems  to  have  formed  no  restraint  upon  the  predatory 
spirit  of  either  the  Mohawks  or  the  French.  Two  years 
had  not  elapsed,  when  a  second  expedition,  guided  by  the 
venerable  De  Tracy  himself,  the  governor  general  of  New 
France,  assembled  at  the  Isle  la  Mottein  Lake  Champlain. 
Far  more  formidable  than  the  preceding,  it  embraced  one 
thousand  two  hundred  combatants,  borne  by  a  fleet  of  three 
hundred  bateaux  and  canoes,  and  strengthened  by  two 
pieces  of  artillery,  which  they  transported  to  the  remotest 
hamlets  of  the  Iroquois. 


1  Relations  of  the  march,  etc.,  Doc.  CoL  Hist.,  in,  156. 

3  No  body  of  water  which  he  could,  in  a  usual  course,  have  traversed  on 
the  lake,  corresponds  so  strictly  with  this  description.  I  am  strongly  forti 
fied  in  my  conjecture,  by  the  statement  of  Dr.  O'Callaghan,  that  an  ancient 
map  exists  in  the  office  of  the  surveyor  general  of  the  state,  on  which  Pereu 
bay  is  named  Corlear's  bay. 

8  Idem,  m,  554,  815.    *  Idem,  815,  817. 

6  Nichols  to  Corlear,  Jan.  9,  16GG,  idem,  145. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  31 

Intimidated  by  the  power  of  this  armanent,  the  Mohawks 
abandoned  their  fortified  villages,  and  "these  barbarians 
were  only  seen  on  the  mountains  at  a  distance,  uttering  great 
cries  and  firing  some  random  shots." l  Having  planted  the 
cross,  celebrated  mass,  and  sung  the  Te  Deum  on  the 
spot,  "  all  that  remained  was  to  fire  the  palisades  and 
cabins,  and  to  destroy  all  the  stores  of  Indian  corn,  beans, 
and  other  products  of  the  country  found  there."  The  re 
treat  of  the  French,  from  this  abortive  attempt,  was  deeply 
calamitous.  Forts  were  erected  at  Sorel  and  Chambly  to 
protect  the  province  from  the  incursions  of  the  Iroquois  by 
the  lake.  The  Mohawks,  wily  as  powerful,  were,  by  their 
habits  and  position, intangible;  no  blow  could  reach  them. 
Suddenly  bursting  in  1689,  with  great  force  into  Canada, 
they  besieged  and  captured  Montreal,  and  menaced  the 
empire  of  New  France  with  utter  extinction.  This  move 
ment  averted  a  contemplated  attack  upon  New  York  by 
Frontenac  through  Lake  Champlain,  and  of  a  fleet  by  sea. 

lu  the  ensuing  winter  an  event  occurred,  preeminent 
even  in  the  atrocities  of  that  warfare  for  its  deliberate 
and  ferocious  cruelty.  The  people  of  Schenectady,  that  vil 
lage  whose  Christian  charity  had  saved  the  forces  of  De 
Courcelles  from  an  appalling  fate,  reposed  in  a  profound 
security.  Although  warned  of  impending  danger,  they 
had  relied  for  protection  upon  the  intense  severity  of  the 
season,  and  an  unprecedented  depth  of  snow.  A  band  of 
French  and  Hurons,  conducted  by  ruthless  partisans,  pre 
cipitating  themselves  in  a  march  of  twenty-two  days  along  the 
course  of  West  Canada  creek,  fell 2  in  a  winter's  midnight 
upon  this  doomed  and  undefended  hamlet.3  A  common 

1  French  report.    2  Col.  Hist.,  v,  656. 

3  This  is  opposed  to  the  generally  received  idea  that  this  road  was  along  the 
line  of  Lake  Champlain.  A  route  by  West  Canada  creek  implies  an  avenue 
of  communication  between  Canada  and  the  Mohawk  valley  different  from 
that  afforded  by  the  usual  line  traversed  by  the  French,  either  from 
Oswego  or  by  the  way  of  Lake  Champlain.  The  route  mentioned  pos 
sibly  had  a  terminus  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Black 
river.  Writers  constantly  advert  to  the  use  of  such  an  intermediate  channel ; 
but  their  attention  does  not  seem  to  have  been  directed  to  its  locality  or 


32  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

ruin  involved  the  entire  population.     The  blood  of  many 
mingled  with   the  ashes  of  their  dwellings.     Some,  half- 
clad,  fled  to  Albany  amid  the  cold  and  snow,  while  others 
were  borne  into  a  hopeless  captivity. 

After  perpetrating  this  massacre,  the  French  made  a 
rapid  and  disastrous  retreat,  pursued  by  the  rigors  of  a 
destroying  climate,  and  the  vengeance  of  a  fierce  enemy. 

Other  sections  of  the  English  colonies  were  visited  with 
similar  and  simultaneous  assaults,  tending  only  to  aggravate 
national  animosities,  without  attaining  either  military  or 

character.  Sir  John  Johnson,  it  is  stated,  when  he  violated  his  parole  and 
fled  with  the  mass  of  his  tenantry  to  Canada,  consumed  nineteen  days,  with 
great  exposure  and  suffering,  in  traversing  the  wilderness  by  some  interior 
line,  known  to  him  and  the  Indians.  But  no  further  light  is  thrown  upon 
a  question,  which  to  my  mind,  is  invested  with  much  geographical  and 
historical  interest.  I  will  venture  the  presumption,  that,  at  this  period 
more  than  one  familiar  route  had  been  established  through  the  vast  prime 
val  forests,  which  embrace  the  western  confines  of  Essex  county,  which 
still  exist  essentially  in  their  original  gloom  and  solitudes.  No  other  route 
would  have  been  available,  when  both  Oswego  and  Champlain,  as  often ' 
occurred,  were  in  the  occupation  of  a  hostile  power.  The  valleys  of  the 
streams  which  How  into  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson,  and  which  almost 
mingle  their  waters  with  the  affluents  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  might  have 
been  ascended,  and  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  the  wilderness  may  have  been 
used  with  great  facility  for  a  canoe  navigation.  A  few  trifling  carrying 
places  would  have  interposed  only  slight  impediments,  and  when  closed  by 
the  frosts  of  winter,  these  waters  could  still  afford  a  most  favorable  route  of 
communication.  Other  avenues  through  this  wilderness  were  undoubtedly 
accessible,  but  my  own  observation  has  suggested  one  which  I  will  trace. 
The  upper  valley  of  the  Hudson  may  have  been  penetrated,  until  the  line 
is  reached  of  a  small  branch,  which  starting  from  the  lakes  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Adirondac  works,  finds  its  way  to  the  Hudson.  Passing  up  the  valley 
along  which  this  stream  gradually  descends,  the  inaccessible  range  of 
mountains  would  be  avoided.  Thence  traversing  the  Indian  pass  in  nearly 
an  imperceptible  ascent,  the  plains  of  North  Elba  would  be  reached  and  these 
open  upon  the  vast  plateau  of  the  wilderness,  along  which  the  Racket  rolls 
a  gentle  current,  adapted  to  the  Indian  canoe,  to  the  St.  Lawrence.  This 
idea  posssibly  explains  the  origin  of  the  modern  name  which  has  been 
assigned  to  the  wonderful  structures  known  to  the  natives  as  Otneyarh, 
the  place  of  stony  giants. 

Gentlemen  of  great  intelligence  and  careful  observation  have  assured 
me  that  they  have  noticed  evidences  in  the  \\ildernessof  other  ancient 
pathways  disclosed  by  still  open  tracks,  the  vestiges  of  rude  bridges  and 
the  mouldering  remains  of  coarsely  hewn  vehicles  calculated  for  manual 
transi>ortation. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  33 

political  results.  These  inflictions  awakened  the  colonies  to 
the  perception,  that  safety  and  protection  depended  on  con 
certed  action,  and  that  they  were  strong  alone  in  harmo 
nious  union.  From  such  convictions,  which  at  a  later 
period  were  matured  by  the  convention  at  Albany,  ema 
nated  the  first  idea  of  an  American  congress.  That  body, 
constituted  of  delegates  from  Massachusetts,  Connecticut 
and  New  York,  assembled  in  1690  at  the  city  of  New  York. 
It  was  then  resolved  to  combine  their  efforts  for  the  sub 
jugation  of  Canada.  Massachusetts  redeemed  her  engage 
ment,  to  equip  a  fleet  to  assail  the  French  possessions 
by  sea.  New  York  and  Connecticut  assumed  the  respon 
sibility  of  effecting  a  descent,  by  a  land  force,  upon  Mont 
real  and  the  forts  upon  the  Sorel.  An  army  was  assembled 
at  Lake  George,  and  a  flotilla  of  canoes,  constructed  for 
the  purpose,  wafted  the  army,  powerful  in  numbers  and 
appointments,  down  that  lake  to  Ticouderoga.  Transport 
ing  their  armament  to  Champlain,  they  again  embarked 
with  high  aspirations  and  in  confidence  of  success.  Some 
further  progress  was  made,  when  suddenly  a  defective 
commissariat,  with  dissensions  and  divisions,  constrained  a 
retreat,  and  with  it  blasted  every  scheme  of  the  projected 
attacks.  The  immense  disbursements  of  the  colonies  in 
sustaining  these  extended  efforts,  exhausted  their  feeble 
resources,  and  left  them  almost  powerless  for  the  defense 
of  their  own  frontier. 

In  this  crisis,  and  during  the  year  1690,  John  Schuyler,  a 
name  distinguished  by  a  long  line  of  patriots  and  soldiers, 
organized  a  volunteer  band  of  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  u  Christians  and  Indians,"  on  a  predatory  incursion, 
into  the  French  province.  Traversing  Lake  Champlain 
and  the  Sorel,  in  silence  and  caution,  he  landed  without 
detection  in  the  vicinity  of  Chambly.  Secreting  his  canoes 
and  provisions,  he  penetrated,  with  a  singular  temerity  and 
no  less  singular  success,  to  La  Prairie,  amid  numerous 
forces  of  the  French,  and  far  within  the  line  of  their  fort 
resses.  The  merciless  storm  fell  upon  an  unsuspecting 
3 


34  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

rural  population,  engaged  and  rejoicing  in  their  harvest. 
In  the  fell  spirit  that  characterized  these  scenes,  none  were 
exempted  from  slaughter  or  captivity.  The  "scalps  of 
four  women  folks,"  were  among  their  trophies.  Dwellings, 
barns,  products  of  the  field,  "  and  everything  else  which 
would  take  fire,"  were  remorselessly  consigned  to  the 
flames.1  The  next  year,  Peter  Schuyler,  a  controlling 
spirit  in  the  colony,  and  who  swayed  an  unlimited  influence 
over  the  rude  affections  of  the  Mohawks,  collecting  three 
hundred  whites  and  warriors  of  the  tribe,  daringly  pursued 
the  track  of  his  brother,  and  assailed  the  same  region. 
"With  great  labor,  Schuyler  constructed  bark  canoes  at 
"White  Hall,  and  Ticonderoga ;  some  of  which  were  of  large 
dimensions  equal  to  the  transportation  of  twelve  men. 
He  traversed  the  lake  slowly  and  with  great  caution,  advanc 
ing,  as  he  approached  the  object  of  his  expedition,  by  night. 
Scouts,  formed  of  whites  and  savages,  were  thrown  cau 
tiously  in  advance.2 

"  Resolving,"  he  says,  "  to  attack  the  fort  at  daybreak, 
went  to  prayers  and  marched."  The  firing  of  alarm  guns  at 
Chambly  and  La  Prairie,  announced  that  the  French  were 
aware  of  his  approach  and  prepared  to  resist.  De  Collie-res, 
the  governor  of  Montreal,  had  assembled  a  force  of  eight 
hundred  men  to  oppose  the  advance  of  Schuyler.  In  the 
presence  of  an  enemy  so  well  prepared  and  formidable  in 
numbers,  he  was  compelled  to  retreat.  This  was  achieved 
with  great  courage  and  ability,  through  a  series  of  severe 
conflicts,  continuing  from  La  Prairie  to  their  canoes,  in 
which  the  French  were  repulsed  with  heavy  losses.  Enve 
loped  by  the  enemy,  Schuyler  says:  "I  encouraged  my* 
men  and  told  them,  there  was  no  other  choice,  fight  or  die 
they  must,  the  enemy  being  between  us  and  our  canoes." 
Fight  they  gallantly  did,  and  bursting  through  the  hostile 
ranks,  that  in  heavy  masses  enclosed  them,  regained  their 

1  Schuyler's  journals. 

a  The  exceeding  clearness  of  vision  and  watchful  observation  of  the  Indians 
illustrated  by  an  entry  in  Schuyler's  journal.  "  Our  spies  told  us  they  saw 
somewhat  lifce  the  striking  of  fire  with  a  flint  and  steel  in  a  canoe." 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  35 

flotilla,  and  having  inflicted  much  injury  upon  the  inhabit 
ants  and  crops,  retraced  their  steps.1 

Count  Frontenac,  impatient  under  the  unyielding  hostili 
ties  and  perpetual  ravages  of  the  Mohawks,  that  no  treaties 
could  permanently  suppress  and  no  vigilance  guard  against, 
determined  by  a  sudden  and  more  efficient  effort  to  extin 
guish  their  power  in  the  citadels  of  their  strength.  He 
organized  in  the  year  1689,  a  force  of  six  hundred  French 
and  Indians,  and  secretly  passing  Lake  Champlain  upon  the 
ice,  and  penetrating  the  forest  burdened  with  deep  snows, 
assaulted  by  a  complete  surprise,  a  race  whose  vigilance 
scarcely  ever  slumbered.  Several  of  their  villages  were 
taken  and  burnt,  and  three  hundred  of  the  natives  captured. 
But  repulsed  on  a  final  attack  by  the  unconquerable 
Mohawks,  De  Callieres  commenced  a  disastrous  retreat, 
followed  by  the  Indians  with  a  merciless  vengeance.  Peter 
Sehuyler,  the  ever  firm  and  active  friend  of  the  Mohawks, 
with  the  militia  of  Albany,  hastily  gathered,  joined  in  the 
pursuit.  A  violent  snow  storm  and  a  narrow  strip  of  ice 
which  afforded  a  precarious  passage  over  the  Hudson,  and 
was  broken  up  as  their  rear  crossed,  saved  the  panic- 
stricken  refugees,  from  the  terrible  inflictions  of  savage  pas 
sions  fiercely  enkindled.  So  unexpected  was  the  attack  and 
sudden  the  pursuit,  that  the  scanty  supply  of  food  was  soon 
exhausted,  and  the  savages  literally  fed  upon  the  dead 
bodies  of  their  enemies,  while  the  fugitives  to  sustain  life 
were  compelled  before  they  found  relief  in  the  borders  of 
Canada,  "  to  eat  the  leather  of  their  shoes." 

To  the  scope  of  more  extended  history'  belongs  the 
narrative  of  efforts  for  the  "  conquest  of  New  France,"  pro 
tracted  for  a  period  of  two  years  from  1709,  and  extending 
in  their  field  of  operations  along  the  entire  frontier  from 
Detroit  to  the  Bay  of  Fondy,  and  embracing  armaments, 
both  by  land  and  sea.  Policy,  as  well  as  the  exasperated 
passions  of  the  colonies,  aroused  all  their  enthusiasm,  and 
enlisted  in  support  of  the  project,  every  energy  and 

1  Peter  Scliuyler's  journal.    Hist.  CoL,  in,  800. 


36  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

resource.  This  zeal  was  neutralized,  or  defeated  by  the 
apathy,  the  imbecility,  or  the  negligence  of  the  government 
of  England.  One  provincial  army,  organized  by  the  colo 
nies  for  the  attack  of  Montreal,  was  wasted  by  disease, 
while  awaiting  assistance  and  supplies  from  the  mother 
country,  which  were  never  received.  Another  was  dis 
banded  when  the  inadequate  naval  expedition  of  England 
against  the  French  possessions  had  been  unsuccessful. 


CHAPTER  III. 
THE  FRENCH  OCCUPATION. 

The  valley  of  Lake  Champlain  appears  not  to  have  been 
occupied  until  about  1731,  either  by  France  or  England, 
with  any  permanent  or  tangible  possession.  France 
asserted  no  other  than  an  ideal  and  constructive  title.  The 
claims  of  England,  had,  in  the  interval,  been  augmented  by 
the  cession  of  New  Netherlands,  which  conveyed  a  tenure 
uniformly  assumed  by  Holland,  to  reach  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  by  the  fealty  of  the  Iroquois,  who  had  submitted  to  the 
sovereignty  of  the  British  monarch  the  entire  environs  of 
Champlain  and  the  recognition  of  that  title  by  France  in 
the  treaty  of  Utrecht. 

The  claims  of  the  Iroquois,  resting  upon  the  rights  of 
conquest,  were  necessarily  vague  and  fluctuating,  and  after 
the  ascendancy  of  the  French  interposed  an  arm  of  power 
between  the  Mohawks  and  Algonquins,  the  scope  of  these 
claims  was  repressed  and  in  the  early  part  of  the  eighteenth 
century  scarcely  embraced  their  original  boundaries.  Such 
boundaries,  not  only  as  they  affected  the  foreign  relations 
of  the  confederacy  but  as  between  the  individual  tribes, 
seem  to  have  been  accurately  defined.  Sir  William  John 
son,  in  a  letter  to  the  lords  of  trade,  Nov.  13th,  1797, 
clearly  and  specifically  describes  the  limits  claimed  by  the 

1  Col.  Hist.,  vii,  572. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  37 

Iroquois  as  "  original  proprietors."  Their  limits  on  Lake 
Champlain  were  established  by  a  remarkable  landmark. 
"  The  hereditary  domains  of  the  Mohawks,  he  says,  "  ex 
tends  from  near  Albany  to  the  Little  Falls  (Oneija  bound 
ary),  and  all  the  country  from  thence  eastward,  &c.,  north 
to  Rejiohne  inLake  Champlain."  In  an  other  letter  Johnson 
refers  to  "  Regiohne,  a  rock  on  the  east  side  of  said  lake," 
as  bounding  the  northward  claim  of  the  Iroquois.1 

Few  tourists  traverse  Lake  Champlain,  whose  attention 
is  not  attracted  and  inquiries  elicited,  by  the  appearance  of 
a  dark  and  naked  rock,  ascending  from  the  bosom  of  the 
waters,  almost  in  the  track  of  the  steamer,  as  she  approaches 
Burlington  from  the  south.  In  almost  the  form  of  a  perfect 
cone,  the  rock  stands  thirty  feet  above  the  surface,  in 
solitary  insulation.  Its  symmetry  of  contour  is  so  perfectly 
maintained  below  the  water  line,  that  vessels  may  moor 
almost  at  its  side.  No  vegetation  softens  or  adorns  its 
aspect,  but  it  stands,  gloomy,  solitary  and  impressive.  An 
aspect  so  remarkable  was  calculated  to  evoke  the  Indian 
love  of  the  imposing  and  picturesque,  and  would  have  been 
a  marked  object  in  their  hunting  voyages  and  hostile  expe 
ditions.  This  is  known  as  Rock  Dunder,  and  I  identify 
it  with  entire  reliance  as  the  Rock  Rejiohne  or  Reggio  of 
Indian  annals.  I  arrive  at  this  conclusion  from  various 
proofs,  in  addition  to  the  views  above  presented.  John 
Schuyler,  in  the  journal  of  his  expedition  in  1691,  writes, 
"  advanced  from  the  Crown  point  towards  Reggio,  thirty 
miles  distant."  Johnson  twice  refers  to  it.  David  Schuyler 
in  a  letter  to  the  Earl  of  Bellomont,  August  17,  1700, 
states  "  the  French  guards  (sent  out  from  Canada,  &c.),  met 
him  in  a  canoe,  within  the  bounds  of  this  government,  at  the 
Otter  creek  eighteen  miles,  on  this  side  of  Reggio,  the  great 
rock,  that  is  in  Corlear  lake. "  These  distances  were  probably 
mere  estimates,  but  singularly  approximate  to  accuracy. 
I  have  consulted  with  intelligent  mariners  of  the  lake,  who 
concur  in  the  statement  that  no  other  rock  exists  in  that 

1  Col.  Hist.,  in,  802. 


38  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

section  of  the  lake  of  a  marked  or  peculiar  character.  The 
most  conclusive  evidence,  however,  is  furnished  by  a  French 
map  of  Lake  Champlain  "  prepared  about  the  year  1731, 
from  divers  memoirs,"  and  copied  into  the  Documents 
relating  to  the  Colonial  History,  vol.  ix,  1023.  Between 
"  the  river  Ouinouski "  (Onion)  and  "  river  Aux  Loutree  " 
(Otter  Creek),  directly  opposite  the  position  of  Rock  Dun- 
der  there  is  inscribed  on  the  map,  and  upon  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  lake,  the  word  "  Reggio." 

I  am  aware  that  one  fact  apparently  militates  against  my 
theory.  The  Rock  Reggio  is  described  as  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  monstrous  Dellius  grant,  and  that  Rock 
Dunder  does  not  conform  to  the  seventy  miles  in  length  of 
that  patent.  Everything  connected  with  that  stupendous 
fraud  it  is  conceded  was  undefined,  inchoate  and  ambi 
guous,  and  I  am  not  aware  that  the  Dellius  patent  was  ever 
practicably  located  by  its  pretended  bounds.  Modern  writ 
ers  and  maps  assume  Split  rock  to  be  the  Reggio  referred 
to  in  that  grant.  In  my  judgment  there  exists  insuperable 
objections  to  that  assumption.  Split  rock  is  not  strictly 
an  isolated  rock,  but  is  a  point  of  a  promontory  separated 
by  attrition  from  the  main  land  ;  is  not  on  "the  east  side  " 
of  the  lake,  and  does  not  conform  in  its  position  to  the 
distances  mentioned.  John  H.  Lydius,  the  successor  to 
Dellius,  avers  in  an  affidavit  made  5th  April,  1750,  "that 
the  land,  as  far  as  the  Rock  Rogeo  belonged  to  the  Mo 
hawks,  and  is  situated  about  ten  leagues  north  of  Crown 
point."  This  is  very  nearly  the  distance  to  Rock  Dunder, 
while  Split  rock  is  scarcely  eighteen  miles  from  Crown 
point.  Lydius  continues,  u  neither  hath  he  ever  heard  of 
any  other  rock  called  by  the  Indians  Rogeo ;  Rogeo  being 
a  Mohawk  word  and  the  name  of  a  Mohawk  Indian 
who  was  drowned,  as  they  say,  in  the  lake  near  that  rock 
long  before  the  Christians  came  among  them,  from  whence 
the  Mohawks  call  both  the  rock  and  the  lake,  Rogeo." 
This  catastrophe,  probably  of  a  distinguished  brave,  shrouded 

1  Col.  Hist.,  xi,  5G9. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  39 

the  rock  to  the  aboriginal  superstition  with  an  unusual  awe 
and  veneration.  The  rock  was  a  conspicuous  object  visible 
in  every  direction  far  away  upon  the  waters,  and  when  it 
was  recognized  as  a  prominent  landmark  in  the  bounda 
ries  of  powerful  confederacies,  it  became  a  point  of  great, 
interest  and  importance.  The  passage  of  a  hostile  canoe 
beyond  its  shadow  might  have  constituted  war.  Fancy 
readily  depicts  fleets  of  canoes  gathering  around  its  base 
upon  the  placid  bosom  of  the  lake  for  conciliation  and 
peace,  and  the  council  or  sacrificial  fire  shedding  its  radiance 
widely  over  the  waters. 

The  pretensions  of  France  to  the  sovereignty  of  Lake 
Champlain  and  its  shores,  were  not  alone  founded  upon 
the  discoveries  of  Cartier  and  Champlain,  and  the  extent 
and  distinctness  of  assumption  from  title  based  on  such 
discoveries  in  subsequent  grants,  or  concessions.  France 
asserted  other  foundations  of  claim  which  were  not  with 
out  plausible  pretenses  of  justice  and  right.  The  French 
diplomatists  assumed,  that  Holland  had  never,  in  the  exer 
cise  of  its  jurisdiction  over  the  Iroquois,  established  claims 
to  their  territory  paramount  to  the  nominal  possession  of 
France;  and  justly  asserted  that  England,  in  the  conquest 
and  cession  of  the  New  Netherlands  acquired  no  other  or 
higher  title  than  had  been  enjoyed  by  Holland.  The  com 
missioners  of  France  at  London,  in  1687,  in  a  formal  memo 
rial,  affirmed  that  all  the  Iroquois  nations  concluded,  in 
1665  and  1666,  a  solemn  treaty  with  M.  de  Tracy,  whereby 
they  placed  themselves  under  his  majesty's  (Louis  XIV), 
protection,  and  declared  themselves  his  subjects.1  Formal 
treaties  warranting  this  construction  were  executed  by  the 
western  tribes  of  the  confederacy,  ratified  and  emblazoned 
by  their  distinctive  symbols,  but  no  symbol  of  the  inflexi 
ble  Mohawk  is  attached  to  the  compact,  although  the  Oneida 
embassadors  appeared  to  have  assumed  to  act  for  them.2 
The  language  of  these  treaties  was  in  the  illusory  and 
ambiguous  terms  incident  to  all  similar  instruments,  and 

1  Hist.  Doc.,  in,  507.    2  Idem,  122,  125. 


40  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

subject  to  constant  denial  and  evasion.  These  transactions 
were  followed  by  immediate  and  perpetual  hostilities.  An 
insuperable  obstacle  to  the  language  of  such  treaties 
being  available  in  diplomacy,  is  established  by  the  clear 
and  obvious  fact,  that  France  exercised  no  powers  or  pro 
tectorate  under  their  sanctions.  Whatever  may  have  been 
the  inherent  force  of  these  instruments  in  effecting  the  right 
of  the  other  tribes,  no  basis  existed  for  the  pretense,  that 
they  authorized  any  intrusion  by  France  into  the  hereditary 
dominions  of  the  Mohawks  south  of  a  boundary  so  distinct 
and  apparently  so  well  authenticated  as  the  land-mark  I 
have  described. 

The  treaty  of  Kyswick,  in  1698,  declared  that  the  belli 
gerents  should  return  their  possessions  as  each  occupied 
them  at  the  commencement  of  hostilities.  England  forcibly 
alleged,  that  at  the  period  contemplated  by  the  treaty,  the 
Iroquois,  their  allies,  were  in  the  occupation  by  conquest 
of  Montreal  and  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  there 
fore  entitled  to  retain  possession  of  that  territory.  The 
French  government  seems  to  have  recognized  the  theory, 
that  the  Iroquois  were  embraced  in  the  provisions  of  that 
treaty.1  Such  were  the  jarring  and  complicated  assumptions 
of  European  powers  to  the  homes  and  dominion  of  the  ab 
origines,  where  they  had  so  recently  exerted  all  the  prero 
gatives  of  empire  and  of  freedom.  When  France  denied 
the  claims  of  England  and  appealed  to  "  the  council  fire  at 
Onondaga,"  the  stern  savage  orator  replied  :  "  We  have 
ceded  our  lands  to  no  one,  we  hold  them  of  Heaven  alone." 2 
The  verdict  of  common  history  has  established  the  conclu 
sion,  that  in  the  intrusion  of  France  upon  the  domains  of  the 
Mohawks  on  Lake  Champlain,  at  the  sacrifice  of  so  much 
blood  and  treasure,  justice  and  the  restraints  and  faith  of 
treaties  were  subordinated  to  the  lust  of  power  and 
expediency. 

Whilst  neither  power  yielded  its  dominion  to  the  other, 
each  felt  the  extreme  importance  of  securing  the  ascend- 

1  Louis  XIV  to  Callieres,  27th  April,  1699,  Hist.  Doc.,  ix,  598.    a  Bancroft. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  41 

ancy  upon  Lake  Champlain.  The  command  of  that 
avenue  shed  over  the  colonies  of  the  government  which 
held  it,  a  broad  and  ample  protection.  As  clearly  as  facts 
can  be  adduced  from  the  faint  glimmerings  of  history  or 
tradition,  it  appears  probable  that,  in  the  early  period  of 
the  eighteenth  century,  English  occupation  and  improve 
ment  were  gradually  advancing  toward  the  valley  of  Cham- 
plain  ;  Crown  point,  then  distinguished  by  its  present  name, 
was  recognized  in  1690,  as  a  commanding  and  important 
position.  The  common  council  of  Albany,  instructing 
their  scouting  party  in  that  year,  directs  them  to  proceed 
"  to  Crown  point,  where  you  shall  remain  and  keep  good 
watch  by  night  and  day."  The  fact  appears  also  from 
the  language  of  the  purchase,  by  Dellius,  that  this  purchase 
was  ratified  by  a  grant  from  Governor  Fletcher  in  1696. 
of  a  tract  from  the  Mohawks,  extending  "  more  than 
twenty  miles  northward  of  Crown  point." 1  His  patent  was 
so  exorbitant  in  its  claims,  and  comprehended  so  vast  an 
extent  of  territory,  that  the  colonial  legislature,  without 
hesitation,  abrogated  the  grant,  and  thus  exhibited  an  exer 
cise  over  the  region  of  one  of  the  highest  prerogatives  of 
sovereignty. 

The  Crown  point  of  history  is  a  beautiful  peninsula, 
forming  a  section  of  the  present  township  of  that  name, 
which  is  distinguished  for  its  agricultural  fertility,  and  the 
rare  and  exceeding  loveliness  of  the  landscapes  its  varied 
scenery  affords.  The  peninsula  is  formed  by  Bulwagga 
bay,  a  broad  estuary  on  the  west,  and  the  lake  upon  the 
east,  which  at  that  point,  abruptly  changes  its  course  nearly 
at  right  angles,  and  is  compressed  from  a  wide  expanse 
into  a  narrow  channel.  A  vast  wilderness  in  1731  extended 
on  both  sides  of  Lake  Champlain,  from  the  settlements  on 
the  Hudson  to  the  Canadian  hamlets,  broken  by  rugged 
and  impracticable  mountains  and  ravines,  and  traversed  by 
deep  or  rapid  streams.  No  track  penetrated  it,  except  the 
path  of  the  Indian.  The  lake,  in  its  navigation,  or  by  its  ice, 

1  Point  Le  Garonne  of  the  French. 


42  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

afforded  the  only  avenue  of  mutual  invasion.  The  most 
unpracticed  eye  at  once  perceives  that  Canada  could  be 
the  most  efficiently  shielded  by  the  occupation  of  Crown 
point,  that  position  forming  the  portals  of  the  lake.  Im 
pressed,  no  doubt,  by  these  considerations,  the  French 
vice-regal  government,  violating  the  sanctions  of  treaties, 
and  the  immunities  of  a  profound  peace,  suddenly  advanced 
through  the  lake,  and  seized  by  a  military  force,  a  promon 
tory  directly  opposite  Crown  point,  and  immediately  after, 
that  position  itself. 

The  site  first  occupied  by  the  French  is  now  called 
Chimney  point,  but  they  gave  to  it  the  more  euphonious 
name  of  Point  a  la  Chevelure.  The  poetical  allusion  it 
must  have  conveyed  is  lost  to  us.1 

This  action  of  France  was  the  movement  of  no  incon 
siderate  impulse,  but  the  suggestion  of  a  deliberate  and  ma 
tured  policy.  The  scheme  was  distinctly  urged  in  1688  and 
never  relinquished.  Frontenac  in  1693,  was  instructed  to 
"  build  light  vessels  for  the  defense  of  the  narrow  defiles 
of  the  rivers  and  lakes  on  the  route  from  Orange."  2  And 
in  1737,  Beauharnois  was  directed  to  effect  a  survey  of 
Lake  Champlain  with  the  purpose  of  introducing  an  armed 
sloop  upon  its  waters.3  The  views  of  France,  in  reference 
to  the  importance  of  securing  the  control  of  Lake  Chain- 
plain,  were  neither  peculiar  or  unfounded.  The  secret 
councils  of  the  colonial  governments  of  England  were 
constantly  directed  to  the  attainment  of  the  same  great 
object,4  Lake  Champlain  was  the  most  direct  avenue  of 
communication  between  the  Hudson  and  Quebec.  A 
military  post,  which  commanded  the  lake,  must  necessarily 
control  the  large  and  lucrative  fur  trade  that  sought 
through  its  waters  a  transit  between  Chamblyand  Albany. 
It  was  the  purpose  of  France  to  anticipate  and  defeat  the 

1  It  is  frequently,  but  I  think  incorrectly  stated,  that  this  name  was 
originally  given  to  Crown  point.  All  the  old  French  maps  corroborate  my 
opinion. 

3  Louis  XIV  to  Frontenac,  Hist.,  Doc.,  ix,  449.    8  Idem.,  ix,  1059. 

4  Gov.  Dougau,  Doc.,  in,  477  ;  Bellomont,  id.,  504 ;  Lords  of  Trade,  id.,  704. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  43 

designs  of  England  for  the  occupation  of  Crown  point.1 
The  wise  policy  of  the  French  government  contemplated 
the  formation  of  agricultural  colonies  beneath  the  shields 
of  its  military  posts,  and  to  thus  secure  the  permanent  de 
fense  and  possession  of  the  country.2 

The  instructions  to  Beauharnois  directed  that  a  simple 
stockaded  fort  should  first  be  erected,  "  until  a  stronger  one 
can  be  constructed." 3  Thirty  men  only  formed  the  garrison 
of  the  incipient  fortification.  Beauharnois  announces  three 
years  later  to  the  government,  that  he  is  "preparing  to 
complete  "  this  feeble  work.  A  position  full  of  alarm  and 
terror,  and  a  constant  "  sharp  thorn  in  the  sides  of  Massa 
chusetts  and  Few  York  " 4  lingered  thus  for  years  in  its  slow 
and  hesitating  progress,  continually  exposed  to  be  crushed 
with  the  sanction  of  England,  by  the  military  grasp  of  any 
single  colony.  In  1747,  it  appears  to  have  attained  only 
a  slight  advance  in  strength  or  proportions  ;5  but  in  1750, 
an  emissary  of  Clinton  thus  describes  its  growth  and  com 
manding  position  and  armament.  "  The  fort  is  built  of 
stone,  the  walls  of  considerable  height  and  thickness,  and 
has  twenty  pieces  of  cannon  and  swivels  mounted  on  the 
ramparts  and  bastions.  I  observed  the  walls  cracked  from 
top  to  bottom  in  several  places.  At  the  entrance  of  the 
fort  is  a  dry  ditch  eighteen  feet  square,  and  a  draw-bridge. 
There  is  a  subterranean  passage  to  the  lake.  The  citadel 
is  a  stout  building  eight  feet  square,  four  stories  high,  each 
turned  with  arches,  mounts  twenty  pieces  of  cannon  and 
swivels,  the  largest  six-pounders.  The  walls  of  the  citadel 
are  about  ten  feet  thick.  At  the  entrance  is  a  draw-bridge 
and  ditch."6  The  writer  of  this  report  remarks  a  fact 
obvious  to  the  most  unmilitary  eye,  that  the  formation  of 
the  adjacent  country  rendered  St.  Frederick  extremely 
vulnerable  to  assault  by  batteries. 

Gov.  Dongan,  Hist.  Doc.,  in,  1023.    2  Idem. 
3  Louis  XIV  to  Beauharnois  and  Hocquart,  May  1731,  idem,  1025. 
4Delancy  to  Lords  of  Trade,  Doc.,  vi,  816. 
6  Johnson  to  Clinton,  Doc.,  vi,  389. 
6  Stoddart  to  Clinton,  Doc.,  vi,  582,  abridged. 


44  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

The  protection  of  Canada  from  the  inroads  of  the  Iro- 
quois  was  the  ostensible  reason  and  excuse  for  the  erec 
tion  of  St.  Frederic,  assigned  by  France.  Its  real  purpose, 
besides  embracing  the  control  of  the  lake,  contemplated 
a  still  deeper  policy.  Occupying  a  position  at  the  threshold 
of  the  English  possessions,  they  could  menace  and  im 
pede  their  progress,  and  at  any  moment  direct  against 
their  expanded  and  defenseless  settlements,  sudden  and 
destructive  assaults.  Crown  point  was  within  the  recog 
nized  possessions  of  the  Iroquois,  and  by  the  treaty  of 
Utrecht,  their  territory  was  guarantied  to  remain  "  invio 
late  by  any  occupation  or  encroachment  of  France."  The 
governor  of  New  York  was  at  length  aroused  from  his 
lethargy,  by  the  indignant  voice  of  Shirley  of  Massa 
chusetts,  to  contemplate  the  arms  of  France  and  a  com 
manding  fortress  far  within  the  limits  of  his  asserted 
jurisdiction.  Massachusetts,  always  prompt  and  energetic 
in  sustaining  the  national  glory,  and  in  redressing  the 
wrongs  of  the  colonies,  offered  to  New  York  to  unite  at 
once  with  her,  in  an  expostulation  on  the  subject,  with 
the  French  functionaries,  and  in  the  ultimate  necessity, 
to  unite  their  arms  to  repel  the  aggression.1  The  occupa 
tion  of  Crown  point  was  only  a  link  in  the  system,  by 
which  France  was  encircling  the  colonies  of  England  by 
a  cordon  of  fortresses.  The  colonies  invoked  in  vain  the 
attention  of  the  home  government,  to  these  encroach 
ments.  In  vain  were  protestations  and  memorials  laid  at 
the  foot  of  the  throne,  urging  that  the  safety  and  the 
colonial  existence  of  New  England  and  New  York  were 
endangered  by  the  occupation  of  Crown  point. 

The  earnest  and  imploring  voice  of  the  colonies  fell  on 
cold  and  deafened  ears.  To  the  vision  of  the  British  minis 
try,  America  was  a  wilderness,  destitute  of  present  frui 
tion  and  promises  of  the  future.  Walpole,  whose  sagacity 
seemed  to  endow  him  almost  with  prophetic  prescience  in 
the  affairs  of  Europe,  could  detect  no  germ  of  future  empire 

1  Correspondent*  between  Shirley  and  Clinton,  Hist.  Doc.tt  vi,  419, 421, 423. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  45 

in  the  wilds  of  America.  So  even  and  indifferent  had 
been  the  regard  of  the  same  government,  to  a  subject  of 
such  momentous  interest,  to  the  colonies,  and  which  had 
so  deeply  aroused  their  anxieties  as  the  erection  of  the 
French  fortresses  on  Lake  Champlain,  that  the  lords  of 
trade,  in  December,  1738,  confessed  to  Governor  Clark 
ignorance  of  their  location,  and  he  in  the  succeeding  year 
"  pointed  them  out  on  a  small  map."1  Not  until  1789  did 
Waldegrave,  the  embassador  to  France,  claim  the  attention 
of  that  government  to  the  violation  of  the  treaty  of  Utrecht, 
by  the  occupation  of  Crown  point.  The  only  response 
conceded  to  this  expostulation  was  the  denial  of  "all 
knowledge  of  the  projected  establishment,"  and  the  for 
mal  diplomatic  assurance  of  instructions  inquiring  on  the* 
subject.  Thus  England  slumbered,  and  the  colonies  toiled 
and  murmured,  while  the  formidable  fortress  of  St. 
Frederick  arose  and  secured  to  France  the  dominion  of  the 
lake. 

Leading  minds  in  the  colonies  were  at  that  day  suspi 
cious  that  sinister  and  corrupt  motives  were  influencing  the 
British  ministry,  "  who  having  reasons  for  keeping  well 
with  the  court  of  France,  the  project "  (of  occupying  the 
Ohio)  "  was  not  only  dropped,  but  the  French  were  encou 
raged  to  build  the  fort  of  Crown  point  upon  the  territory 
of  New  York." 2  Such  was  the  denunciation  of  Spotswood 
of  Virginia.  England,  by  the  ignoble  treaty  of  Aix  La 
Chapelle  relinquished  to  France  the  fortress  of  Louis- 
burg,  subjugated  by  the  treasures  and  blood  of  New 
England;  but  left  to  that  power  without  a  protest,  the 
possession  of  Crown  point.  It  was  not  until  1755,  that 
the  British  government,  with  emphasis  and  decision,  de 
manded  from  France  the  demolition  of  the  fortress  of  St. 
Frederic.  Diplomacy  could  not  thus  retrieve,  after  the 
hostile  occupation  of  a  quarter  of  a  century,  territory  lost 
by  imbecility  or  corruption. 

lDoc.,  vi,  139, 143.    2Gov.  Spotswood.—  Bancroft. 


46  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Accumulated  acts  of  neglect  and  injustice  of  the  mother 
country,  such  as  these,  prepared  and  matured  the  colonies 
for  independence.  Had  they  been  cherished  by  the  guar 
dian  care  of  England,  they  might  have  rested  upon  her  arm 
in  effeminacy  and  dependence.  Abandoned  to  the  sugges 
tions  of  their  own  policy,  they  were  taught  by  these  exi 
gencies  high  and  practical  lessons  of  self-government. 
Compelled  by  a  common  danger,  to  mutual  consultation 
and  concerted  action,  they  were  admonished  of  the  neces 
sity  and  strength  of  a  confederated  union.  Compelled  to 
rely  alone  for  protection  and  safety  upon  their  own  arms  and 
energies,  they  were  taught  to  resist  aggression  and  to  avenge 
injury.  The  deep  fountains  of  their  capacities  were  revealed 
•to  themselves,  by  the  parsimonious  policy  of  England,  that 
constrained  the  colonies  to  resort  to  their  domestic  re 
sources  in  their  own  protection  and  defense.  Had  Canada 
been  a  British  province,  New  England  and  New  York 
might  have  been  exempt  from  the  appalling  scenes  of  car 
nage  and  suffering  which  are  now  impressed  on  their  his 
tory;  but  the  very  exposures  and  dangers  of  their  position, 
and  the  assaults  and  cruelties  of  a  powerful  and  daring 
enemy,  endowed  them  with  lofty  moral  and  physical  cou 
rage;  with  endurance  in  suffering;  with  boldness  and  wis 
dom  in  council,  and  promptitude  and  decision  in  action. 
These  are  the  elements  of  freedom. 

Men,  who  literally  tilled  the  earth  with  the  musket  at 
their  sides,  were  ripening  for  any  emergency  and  pre 
pared  to  defend  a  heritage,  endeared  by  their  blood  and 
sorrows,  against  every  foe  and  any  wrong.  The  career  of 
the  colonies,  neglected,  contemned  and  suffering,  was  to 
them  a  baptism  of  blood  and  sorrow,  that  consecrated  a  free 
and  ennobled  spirit,  equal  to  any  sacrifice  or  any  conflict. 
The  wars  into  which  the  colonies  were  forced  by  this 
policy  of  England,  and  the  proximity  of  the  French  pro 
vinces,  afforded  the  severe  schools  for  their  military  educa 
tion.  The  shores  of  Lake  Champlain  formed  the  nursery 
of  future  heroes  of  the  revolution.  The  military  spirit 
was  here  enkindled,  that  in  after  years  blazed  at  Bunker 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  47 

hill,  and  Bennington,  and  Saratoga ;  and  here,  amid  victory 
and  defeat,  the  science  and  tactics  of  Europe  were  incul 
cated  and  diffused  throughout  the  broad  colonies.  If 
"Washington  was  taught  on  the  banks  of  the  Monongahela, 
to  lead  armies  and  to  achieve  independence  for  his 
country,  Putnam  and  Stark,  Pomeroy  and  Prescott,  amid 
the  forests  and  morasses  of  Horicon  and  Champlain,  and 
beneath  the  walls  of  Ticonderoga,  were  formed  to  guide 
and  conquer  in  the  battles  of  freedom.  Human  wisdom, 
in  her  philosophy,  may  pause  to  contemplate  such  strik 
ing  and  singular  coincidences,  and  to  trace  these  causes 
to  their  momentous  results;  but  the  eye  of  faith  will 
reverence  them  as  the  hidden  workings  of  an  overruling 
and  beneficent  Providence,  who,  in  these  events,  was  un 
folding  the  elements  and  forming  the  agents  of  a  mighty 
revolution,  destined,  not  only  to  sever  a  kingdom,  but  to 
change  the  course  of  human  events. 

An  ordinance  of  the  king  of  France  had  authorized,  as 
early  as  1676,  the  issuing  of  grants  of  lands  situated  in 
Canada.  In  accordance  with  this  power,  and  assuming 
the  sovereignty  of  France  over  the  valley  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  the  government  of  Canada  had  caused  a  survey  to 
be  made  of  the  lake  and  its  contiguous  territory,  the  year 
succeeding  the  erection  of  the  works  at  Crown  point. 
Many  of  the  names  of  the  headlands,  islands  and  other 
topographical  features  of  the  lake,  which  are  still  perpe 
tuated,  are  derived  from  that  survey.  In  their  descriptive 
force  and  beauty,  they  almost  rival  the  euphony  and 
appropriateness  of  the  Indian  nomenclature.  A  map  and 
chart  based  upon  that  survey,  was  published  at  Montreal 
in  1748,  and  has  not  been  surpassed  by  any  subse 
quently  made,  in  its  scientific  aspect  or  minuteness  and 
accuracy.  Extensive  grants,  under  the  ordinance  of  lt>76, 
upon  both  sides  of  the  lake,  are  delineated  upon  that  map. 
A  seigniory  was  granted  to  the  Sieur  Robart,  the  royal 
storekeeper  at  Montreal,  in  June,  1737.  This  grant,  which 
seems  to  have  been  the  only  one  issued  for  land  within 
the  limits  of  the  county  of  Essex,  embraced  "  three  leagues 


48  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

in  front  by  two  leagues  in  depth,  on  the  west  side  of  Lake 
Champlain,  taking,  in  going  down,  one  league  below  the 
river  Boquet,  and  in  going  up,  two  leagues  and  a  half 
above  said  river.1  These  boundaries  comprehend  all  of 
the  present  town  of  Essex  and  a  large  proportion  of  Wills- 
boro'.  The  tract  was  soon  after  formally  laid  out  and 
allotted  by  an  official  surveyor.  "We  have  no  evidence  that 
any  permanent  and  actual  occupation  was  formed  under 
these  grants.  Kalm,  who  visited  the  region  at  an  early 
period,  asserts  that  few  colonies,  and  these  only  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  fortresses,  were  formed  by  the  French  dur 
ing  their  occupation. 

The  authority  from  whom  I  have  already  given  extracts 
states  that  in  1750,  "fourteen  farms  were  occupied  in  the 
vicinity  of  Crown  point,  and  great  encouragement  given 
by  the  king  for  that  purpose,"  and  "that  other  colonists 
were  approaching."2  The  journal  of  Rogers  contains  re 
peated  references  to  villages  adjacent  to  Fort  St.  Frederic 
and  situated  upon  both  sides  of  the  lake. 

The  devastation  in  1745,  of  the  settlement  of  Saratoga, 
by  an  Indian  and  French  force,  armed  and  organized  at 
Crown  point,  and  the  deeper  atrocities  committed  a  few 
years  later  at  Hoosick,  by  the  same  bands,  while  they  in 
creased  the  apprehensions  of  the  colonies,  excited  to  the 
highest  intensity  the  desire  and  purpose  of  vengeance. 
This  feeling  could  be  best  consummated  in  the  destruction 
of  St.  Frederic.  Whilst  that  fortress  was  occupied  by  a 
powerful  and  vigilant  rival,  the  tenure  of  life  and  property 
in  the  adjacent  English  colonies,  was  esteemed  so  preca 
rious  and  valueless,  that  the  country  north  of  the  Mohawk, 
until  the  conquest  of  Amherst,  was  nearly  depopulated. 

A  convention  of  the  colonial  governors  had  been  held  at 
Albany  in  1747,  but  without  yielding  any  fruits  of  prac 
tical  utility.  The  increasing  arid  more  active  aggressions  of 
France,  both  in  the  Ohio  valley  and  upon  Lake  Champlain, 
demanded  a  similar  meeting  in  1754,  that  was  only  mem- 

1  Doc.  History.    3  Doc.  Hist.,  vi,  582. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  49 

orable  for  the  adoption  of  a  Plau  of  Union  between  the 
British  colonies,  inspired  by  Franklin,  and  which,  although 
at  the  time  futile,  formed  the  prolific  germ  from  whence 
in  another  generation  sprung  the  American  confederacy. 
It  was  on  this  occasion,  that  the  venerable  Hendrik,  the 
great  Mohawk  chieftain,  pronounced  one  of  those  thrilling 
and  eloquent  speeches  that  marked  the  nobler  times  of  the 
Iroquois.  It  excited  the  wonder  and  admiration  of  those 
who  listened,  and  commanded  the  highest  encomiums  where- 
ever  it  was  read.1  In  burning  words  he  contrasted  the 
supineness  and  imbecility  of  England,  with  the  energies  of 
French  policy.  His  hoary  head  and  majestic  bearing 
attached  dignity  and  force  to  his  utterances.  "  We,"  he 
exclaimed,  "  would  have  gone  and  taken  Crown  point,  but 
you  hindered  us."  He  closed  his  philippic  with  this  over 
whelming  rebuke:  "Look  at  the  French,  they  are  men. 
They  are  fortifying  everywhere.  But  you,  and  we  are 
ashamed  to  say  it,  you  are  like  women,  bare  and  open  with 
out  any  fortifications." 2 

The  admonitions  of  the  provincial  governments,  and  the 
cry  of  alarm  and  agitation  that  arose  from  every  section  of 
the  colonies,  at  length  aroused  the  English  ministry  to  the 
duty  of  their  protection,  and  the  assertion  of  the  honor  of 
Britain.  Between  France  and  England  a  peace,  under  the 
solemnities  of  treaty,  still  existed.  Four  distinct  expedi 
tions  were,  however,  organized,  professedly  to  guard  the 
colonial  possessions  of  England ;  but  prepared,  at  the  propi 
tious  moment,  to  be  hurled  upon  the  strongholds  of  French 
power.  In  this  combination  an  army,  designed  for  the 
reduction  of  Crown  point,  was  assembled  at  Albany,  and 
confided  to  the  command  of  William  Johnson.  The  zeal 
and  solicitude  of  New  England,  for  the  conquest  of  the 
fortresses  upon  Chainplain,  exasperated  by  the  alarms  and 
calamities  of  a  quarter  of  a  century,  excited  all  the  en 
thusiasm  of  her  bold  and  energetic  yeomanry.  Every 

1  Dwiglit's  Travels,  Gentleman's  Magazine,  Shirley  and  Gov.  Livingstone. 

2  Stone's  Johnson. 


50  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

requisition  of  the  government  was  met  amply  and  with 
promptitude.  Levies  from  New  York  and  New  England 
constituted  all  the  forces  demanded. 

France  was  not  insensible  to  the  gathering  storm,  which 
hegan  to  lower  around  her  American  empire,  and  prepared 
to  meet  and  avert  it. 


CHAPTER  IV. 
DIESKAU,  1755,  1757. 

The  hold  and  rocky  cliffs  which  mark  the  confluence  of 
the  waters  of  Lake  St.  Sacrament  with  Lake  Champlain, 
a  position  still  more  imposing  than  Crown  point,  and 
deeper  within  the  domains  of  the  Iroquois,  had  attracted 
the  attention  of  the  French  engineers.1  In  the  summer 
of  1755,  De  Quesne  advised  the  construction  of  works  at 
that  point.  "  St.  Frederic  was  threatening  to  fall  on  all 
sides."  2  The  selection  of  the  site  and  the  construction  of 
the  fort,  was  confided  to  Lotbiniere,  an  engineer  of  the 
province.  "  A  rock,  which  crowns  all  the  environs,  whose 
guns  could  command  both  the  outlet  and  that  leading  to 
the  Grand  marais  and  Wood  creek,  "  was  selected  as  the 
appropriate  ground  for  the  projected  fortification.3  The 
original  work,  which  a  year  later  was  in  an  unfinished 

1  Saint  Sacrament,  literally  the  Lake  of  the  Blessed  Sacrament,  which 
name  it  obtained  in  1646,  from  Father  Jogues,  because  he  passed  through  it 
on  the  festival  of  Corpus  Christi.—  E.  B.  O'Callaghan,  Doc.,  ix,  400.    The 
common  impression  that  the  name  of  this  lake  was  suggested  by  the  singu 
lar  purity  of  its  water,  is  erroneous.     By  the  aborigines,  it  was  in  one 
dialect  called  Canidere-Oit,  or  the  tail  of  the  lake,  in  reference  to  its  rela 
tion  to  Lake  Champlain. —  Spafford's  Gazetteer.    By  the  Iroquois  it  was 
named  Andiatarocte,  "  there  the  lake  shuts  itself." — Relations.     Honiton, 
although  redolent  with  beauty,  seems  to  be  a  pure  poetical  fancy.     The 
various  names  attached,  as  well  to  tribes  as  to  places,  in  the  difficult  Indian 
language,  often  lead  to  confusion  and  error. 

2  Du  Quesne  to  Vaudreuil. 

8  Vaudreuil,  Doc.,  x,  225.     Modern  engineers  will  ratify  the  complaint  of 
Lotbiniere,  that  his  salary  was  no  more  than  six  hundred  francs. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  51 

state,  "  was  a  square  fort  with  four  bastions,  and  built  of 
earth  and  timber.1  Johnson,  the  same  year,  mentions 
Ticonderoga  as  an  important,  but  unoccupied  position.2 
Such  was  the  inception  of  Fort  Carillon,  a  fortress  and  a 
locality  destined  to  a  terrific  preeminence  in  the  future 
scenes  of  a  sanguinary  war.3  At  what  period  the  massive 
stone  battlements  were  constructed,  which  still  reveal  the 
former  magnitude  and  strength  of  the  fortress,  by  its 
grand  and  picturesque  ruins,  I  cannot  determine.  At 
the  approach  of  Abercrombie,  in  1758,  the  French  were 
energetically  engaged  in  augmenting  both  the  extent  and 
strength  of  the  works.  Crown  point,  by  its  unfavorable 
position,  and  the  decaying  walls  of  St.  Frederick,  had  fallen 
into  a  subordinate  attitude,  "  as  a  second  line  of  defense."  4 
When  the  court  of  St.  Cloud  was  made  aware  of  the  de 
parture  of  Braddock's  formidable  expedition,  a  powerful 
fleet  was  promptly  dispatched  from  the  French  posts  bear 
ing  six  battalions  of  regular  troops,  designed  to  aid  in  the 
defense  of  the  colonies.  It  bore  also  Yaudreuil,  the  governor 
general  of  new  France,  and  with  him  came  Baron  de  Dieskau 
as  commander  in  chief  of  the  colonial  armies.  Dieskau  was 
a  pupil  of  Saxe,  trained  from  youth  to  age  in.  the  battle-fields 
of  Europe,  and  skilled  in  the  handling  of  drilled  and  veteran 
troops,  ardent  and  aspiring,  and  stimulated  by  the  desire  of 
action  and  fame.  Dieskau  prepared  without  delay  to  open 
his  American  career  by  the  capture  of  Oswego.  Half  of  his 
forces  were  already  advancing  in  accordance  with  that  plan, 
and  "the  thing,  "  he  exclaims  in  his  characteristic  but  im 
aginary  conversation  with  Saxe  in  the  Elysian  fields,5 "  was 
inevitable,"  when  Yaudreuil,  alarmed  by  intelligence  from 
St.  Frederick,  altered  his  design  and  hurried  Dieskau,  im 
patient  and  reluctant,  to  the  defense  of  Lake  Champlain. 
He  hastened  to  Crown  point  with  three  thousand  men,  and 

1  Doc. ,  x,  414.    2  Idem,  xi,  997. 

3  Carillon  seems  to  bear  the  same  signification  as  the  Indian  name,  "  the 
Onderoga,"  the  original  of  Ticonderoga,  noise-chimes,  in  allusion,  doubtless, 
to  the  brawling  waters. 

4  Montcalm.     B  Doc.,  x,  340. 


52  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

there  learnt  that  Johnson  was  lying  at  Fort  Edward  and 
Lake  St.  Sacrament,  slowly  collecting  his  forces  and  prepar 
ing  to  advance. 

Immediately  upon  his  arrival  in  Virginia,  Braddock  con 
vened  a  conference  of  the  colonial  governors  at  Alexandria 
to  determine  and  harmonize  a  concerted  action  of  the 
English  colonies  in  a  general  attack  on  the  French  posses 
sions.  In  consonance  with  the  plan  then  decided  upon, 
an  army  intended  to  move  against  the  French  works  on 
Lake  Champlain,  was  entrusted  to  the  command  of  William 
Johnson,  who  had  already  achieved  prominence  in  the 
colonial  affairs  of  New  York,  by  his  estates,  his  com 
manding  abilities,  and  by  his  efficient  and  zealous  measure 
in  organizing  the  militia  of  that  province.  Johnson 
was  Irish  by  birth,  and  of  ancient  and  respectable  lineage. 
He  emigrated  to  America  in  boyhood,  and  at  an  early  age 
occupied  a  subordinate  but  highly  responsible  position  as 
agent  for  the  large  landed  property  of  his  uncle,  Sir  Peter 
"Warren,  lying  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Mohawk  river.  Living 
in  baronial  magnificence  among  the  Mohawks,  his  justice, 
magnanimity  and  generous  habits  imparted  to  him  a  potent 
influence  over  his  aboriginal  neighbors.  He  had  never 
seen  a  field  of  battle,  and  had  no  knowledge  of  military 
affairs,  only  as  he  had  derived  it  from  the  theory  of  books, 
or  like  his  cotemporary  Olive,  he  became  a  soldier  from  the 
intuitive  perceptions  of  his  own  genius. 

Most  of  the  army  which  Johnson  was  to  lead,  had,  in 
June,  1755,  assembled  in  the  vicinity  of  Albany.  A  large 
proportion  of  the  troops  were  from  ISTew  England,  but  the 
character  of  Johnson,  and  the  influence  of  Shirley  of 
Massachusetts,  secured  his  appointment,  and  in  its  pro 
priety  there  seems  to  have  been  a  harmonious  and  loyal 
acquiescence. 

The  embarrassments  and  delays  always  incident  to  the 
organization  of  new  levies,  retarded  the  advance  until  the 
last  week  in  August.  Leaving  a  part  of  his  troops  at 
Fort  Edward,  and  in  an  adjacent  encampment  for  its 
protection,  Johnson  advanced  with  a  force,  including 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  53 

Indians,  of  about  thirty-four  hundred  men,  to  the  foot  of 
Lake  St.  Sacrament,  of  the  French,  and  by  him  then  first 
called  Lake  George, "  not  only  in  honor  of  his  majesty,  but 
to  ascertain  his  undoubted  dominion  here."1  He  "found 
the  country  a  mere  wilderness,  not  one  foot  cleared."2 
Here  he  prepared  ground  "  in  a  protected  position  for  the 
camp  of  five  thousand  men,"  the  number  whose  presence 
he  was  warranted  in  expecting.  His  army,  fresh  from 
the  plough  and  the  workshop,  save  -a  few  who  had  been 
engaged  at  the  siege  of  Louisburg,  were  novices  in  the 
arts  and  services  of  war.  The  provincials,  clothed  in  the 
home-spun  garments  woven  by  wives  and  mothers,  armed 
only  with  their  own  rifles  and  fowling  pieces,  without 
bayonets,  but  animated  by  the  noblest  impulses  of  patriot 
ism  and  courage,  and  inspired  by  a  fervid  religious  enthu 
siasm,  which  enkindled  the  faith  that  they  were  battling 
in  defense  of  the  altars  of  protestantism  and  for  the  sub 
version  of  idolatry.  While  the  preparations  were  in 
active,  but  to  their  impatient  ardor,  slow  progress,  they 
were  restive  and  impatient  for  the  advance.  On  the  sab 
bath,  in  obedience  to  their  puritan  habits,  they  assembled 
to  unite  in  prayer  and  "  to  listen  to  the  word,"  while  their 
swarthy  allies  gravely  hear  the  interpretation  of  a  long 
sermon.3  The  native  groves,  the  primitive  temples  of 
God,  witness  their  worship. 

Johnson,  under  the  delusion  of  a  singularly  false  secu 
rity,  neglected  to  erect  even  the  slightest  works  for  the 
protection  of  the  army.  His  designs  embraced  the  con 
struction  of  a  fort  near  the  ground  he  occupied,  in  the  view 
of  ultimate  security,  and  when  the  necessary  bateaux 
were  built  he  "  proposed  to  proceed  down  the  lake  to  an 
important  pass  called  Ticonderoga,  and  there  endeavor  to 
take  post  until  the  rest  of  the  forces  join  me,  and  thence 
march  to  the  attack  of  Crown  point.  All  of  which  I  hope 
to  be  able  to  accomplish  in  three  weeks." 4  But  all  these 


1  Johnson  to  Lords  of  Trade,  Doc.,  vi,  997.    a  Idem.    a  Bancroft. 
4  Doc.,  vi,  999. 


54  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

purposes  were  suddenly  arrested  by  the  startling  and  un 
expected  tidings,  that  a  French  army  had  landed  at  South 
bay,  and  rapidly  advancing  in  his  rear,  was  threatening  to 
sever  his  communications  with  Fort  Edward. 

The  written  instructions  of  Vaudreuil  to  Dieskau  were 
clear  and  positive,  that  he  should  advance  from  Crown 
point  with  his  entire  force,  and  that  he  should  not  attack 
the  English  entrenchments  without  a  cautious  recognition.1 
Each  of  these  instructions  was  violated  by  Dieskau,  but 
under  circumstances  that  warranted  him  conducting  a  re 
mote  command,  to  exercise  an  individual  judgment,  which 
justified  apparent  disobedience.  When  disaster  had  clouded 
the  fortunes  of  Dieskau,  a  complaint  of  this  action  was  car 
ried  by  Vandreuil  with  extreme  bitterness  to  the  throne.2 
With  half  his  army,  consisting  of  six  hundred  Canadians, 
six  hundred  Indians  and  three  hundred  regulars,  Dieskau 
advanced,  leaving  the  remainder  to  occupy  Carillon,  and  to 
maintain  a  position  known  as  the  u  two  rocks,"  to  cover 
his  retreat  in  case  of  defeat.3 

The  motives  which  controlled  the  decision  of  Dieskau,  he 
explains  in  the  dialogue  with  Saxe.  He  intended  a  mere 
coup  de  main,  and  no  regular  investment  or  assault,  and 
for  that  object  he  deemed  his  force  adequate.4  The  close 
supply  of  provisions,  the  necessity  of  a  rapid  march  through 
a  wild  and  wooded  country,  and  crossing  deep  streams, 
sometimes  along  a  single  log,  rendered  the  use  of  a  larger 
force  impracticable.  He  had  been  informed  by  his  spies,  that 
Johnson  lay  in  an  unfortified  camp  at  Lake  George 
short  of  supplies,  and  that  a  body  of  nine  hundred  militia 
troops,  which  in  a  common  professional  spirit  he  despised,5 

1  Doc,,  x,  325.    2  Vandreuil  to  Machault,  Doc.,  x,  318. 

8  These  rocks,  called  the  Pulpit  and  Narrows,  stand  on  the  junction 
of  the  towns  of  Dresden  and  Putnam.— FitcMs  Washington  County.  Some 
discrepancy  exists  in  the  accounts  of  the  relative  proportions  of  Dieskau's 
forces,  but  none  as  to  the  aggregate. 

4  Col  Doc.,  x,  341. 

6  They  are  such  miserable  soldiers  that  a  single  Indian  would  put  ten 
of  them  to  flight."  —  Idem. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  55 

were  encamped  near  Fort  Edward,  and  that  this  work  was 
only  protected  by  unfinished  palisades.  Upon  this  intelli 
gence  he  formed  the  plan  of  his  campaign.  It  was  con 
ceived  with  great  ability,  and  in  the  instincts  of  bold  enter 
prise,  and  its  execution  was  attempted  by  the  highest 
vigor  and  intrepidity.  A  brilliant  success  would  have 
approved  the  scheme,  had  his  army  been  composed  of  the 
drilled  veterans  he  was  accustomed  to  lead.  But  a  just 
estimate  of  savage  hordes  and  raw  levies  scarcely  less  intrac 
table,  did  not  enter  into  the  contemplations  of  Dieskau, 
and  in  the  anguish  of  wounds  and  defeat  he  bitterly  ex 
claimed  :  "  These  then,  are  the  troops  which  have  been  so 
much  crowed  up  to  me." l 

On  the  fourth  of  September,  1T55,  Dieskau,  in  confor 
mity  with  the  designs  he  had  adopted,  proceeded  up  Wood 
creek,  and,  traversing  the  shallow  waters  of  South  bay,  left 
one  hundred  and  twenty  men  to  guard  his  bateaux,  and 
had  advanced  through  the  woods  by  three  days'  march, 
intending,  on  the  morning  of  the  fourth,  to  assail  and  de 
feat  the  militia  before  Fort  Edward,  and  to  capture  the 
works;  this  accomplished  he  proposed  to  march  rapidly 
against  Johnson,  cut  off  his  communications,  and  to  anni 
hilate  his  army  by  a  sudden  arid  impetuous  attack.  But 
his  guides,  either  bewildered  in  the  mazes  of  the  forest,  or 
treacherous  in  their  purpose,  wandered  from  the  proposed 
course,  and  when  light  appeared  they  were  several  miles  on 
the  road  leading  to  the  English  camp.  The  Indians,  who 
had  become  alarmed  by  the  rumors  of  artillery  on  the  fort, 
although  not  a  single  gun  was  mounted,  refused  to  assail  it 
or  to  cover  an  assault  by  the  French,  arguing  with  a  singu 
lar  casuistry,  that  the  land  it  occupied  belonged  to  England.2 
They  professed  a  readiness  to  attack  Johnson,3  and  while 

lHist.  Doc.,  x,  334.    2  Idem,  342. 

3  Johnson  establishes  in  his  letter  to  Sir  Charles  Hardy  the  wisdom  of 
Dieskau's  original  plan  :  "  Happily  for  us  he  complied  [with  the  proposition  of 
the  Indians]  for  he  would  have  found  our  troops  separately  encamped  out  of 
the  works  and  no  cannon  there,  and  his  victory  would  have  probably  been  a 
very  cheap  one,  and  made  way  for  another  here."  —  Hist.  Doc.,  vi,  1014, 


56  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Dieskau  was  promptly  changing  his  movements  to  gratify 
this  caprice,  he  received  intelligence  that  a  large  detach 
ment  was  advancing  from  the  lake  on  the  road  he  occupied 
to  relieve  the  fort. 

Johnson,  immediately,  when  informed  of  the  advance  of 
Dieskau,  convened  a  council  of  his  officers.  The  aged 
Hendrik  participated  in  the  consultation,  and  seems  to  have 
been  its  Nestor.  When  the  march  of  a  small  body  of  troops 
was  proposed,  he  remarked,  in  the  laconic  and  sententious 
manner  of  his  race  :  "  If  they  are  to  fight  they  are  too  few, 
if  they  are  to  be  killed,  they  are  too  many."  And  when  it 
was  suggested  that  the  detachment  should  be  divided  into 
three  bodies,  he  gathered  three  sticks  from  the  ground : 
u  Put  these  together,  "  he  said,  "  and  you  can't  break  them ; 
take  them  up  one  by  one  and  you  may  break  them  readily." 
Had  the  wise  savage  ever  heard  of  the  classic  fable  ? 
Hendrik  was  the  sage  in  council,  the  consummate  orator, 
and  on  the  war-path  the  bold  and  sagacious  leader;  and  in 
the  combination  of  those  qualities,  was  the  last  of  the  noble 
Mohawks.  He  had  visited  England  twice;  was  received 
with  distinction  at  court,  and  was  slightly  educated. 
Immediately,  before  Colonel  Williams  began  his  march, 
Hendrik  mounted  a  stage  and  harangued  his  people.  His 
strong  masculine  voice,  it  was  supposed,  might  be  heard  at 
the  distance  of  half  a  mile.  A  spectator,  who  did  not 
understand  a  word  of  his  language,  afterwards  said,  "  that 
the  animation  of  Hendrik,  the  fire  of  his  eye,  the  force  of 
his  gestures,  his  emphasis,  the  inflexions  of  his  voice  and 
his  whole  manner  affected  him  more  deeply  than  any 
speech  he  had  ever  heard."  l 

It  was  decided  by  the  council  that  Colonel  Ephraim  Wil 
liams,  with  a  thousand  provincials,  supported  by  Hendrik 
and  two  hundred  Mohawk  warriors,  should  promptly  march 
to  relieve  the  fort.  Williams,  who  a  few  days  before,  by  a 
will  executed  at  Albany,  created  the  foundation  of  an  institu 
tion,  which  a  memorial  of  his  love  of  science  still  preserves 

1  Dmg7it's  Travels. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  57 

his  name,  was  inspired  by  the  earnest  and  heroic  spirit  of 
his  province,  was  a  gallant  soldier,  but  untutored,  except 
in  trifling  Indian  warfare,  by  any  military  experience.  He 
advanced  precipitately,  but  with  little  soldierly  circumspec 
tion.  Hendrik,  on  horseback,  led  the  van. 

Meanwhile,  the  skill  of  the  French  commander  had 
prepared  for  them  a  terrible  reception.  He  placed  his 
forces  on  the  road  he  occupied,  in  a  defile  about  three 
miles  from  Johnson's  camp,  arranging  them  in  the  form 
of  a  parallelogram,  with  front  open,  or  as  a  cul  de  sac.1 
The  Canadians  were  posted  on  the  right,  the  Indians 
upon  the  left,  and  the  regulars  at  the  extremity,  with 
strict  orders  to  the  two  former, "  not  to  move  or  to  discharge 
a  single  gun,  until  the  French  had  fired."  The  rock,  the 
bushes  and  forest  disguised  the  presence  of  an  army,  and 
"Williams  entered  into  this  "  valley  of  death  "  in  the  midst 
of  an  invisible  foe.  At  this  moment,  when,  to  the  prac 
ticed  eye  of  Dieskau,  the  destruction  of  the  whole  detach 
ment  appeared  inevitable,  a  part  of  the  Iroquois  arose 
from  their  hiding  place,  and,  perceiving  their  Mohawk 
brethren  in  the  English  army,  fired  into  the  air,  and  thus 
revealed  the  ambush.  These  were  Senecas,  the  western 
tribe  of  the  confederacy,  but  domiciliated  in  Canada, 
whose  fidelity,  Dieskau,  in  his  correspondence  with  Yau- 
dreuil,  had  uniformly  distrusted.  This  treachery,  probably 
without  premeditation,  was  stimulated  by  that  strong 
fraternal  affection,  which  united  the  different  tribes  of  the 
confederacy  in  bonds  firmer  than  their  political  union, 
and  was  a  remarkable  feature  in  the  character  of  the  Iro 
quois.  Each  canton  might  independently  accept  a  sub 
sidy  from  England  or  France,  and  would  serve  with  fidelity 
and  fight  with  courage  against  the  adverse  nation  or  in 
hostility  to  alien  Indian  tribes,  but  previous  to  the  revolu 
tion  were  never — possibly  some  rare  and  brief  exceptions 
may  have  occurred  —  brought  into  conflict  with  any  other 
branch  of  the  confederacy.  In  the  war  of  independence, 

1  Hist,  Doc.,  x,  342,  where  he  represents  his  formation  by  a  diagram. 


58  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

a  part  of  the  Oneidas  received  the  war-belt  from  the  Ame 
rican  congress,  and  engaged  in  a  sanguinary  contest  with 
their  kindred  tribes. 

The  friendly  or  treacherous  warning  came  too  late,  to 
save  the  provincials  and  Mohawks  from  the  fatal  error  of 
their  leader.  A  crushing  fire  was  poured  upon  them  in 
front  and  from  the  right.  Williams,  who  gallantly  took 
position  upon  a  rock- — the  same  rock  that  is  now  the  base 
of  his  own  monument — at  the  first  alarm,  better  to  observe 
and  direct  the  battle,  early  fell.  Hendrik,  nearly  at  the 
same  moment,  was  also  killed.1  The  provincials  and  In 
dians  retreated  in  confusion,  "doubled  up,"  Dieskau  wrote, 
"  like  a  pack  of  cards,  and  fled  pell-mell  to  their  intrench  - 
ments." 2  They  were  soon  rallied  by  Lt.  Colonel  Whiting, 
fought  with  great  valor,  and  under  cover  of  a  party  of  three 
hundred  men  commanded  by  Colonel  Cole,  which  had 
been  opportunely  detached  by  Johnson  to  their  support, 
effected  a  retreat  in  good  order  to  the  camp. 

Dieskau,  bursting  through  the  red  tape  instructions  of 
Vaudreuil,  and  following  the  inspiration  of  the  motto  in 
scribed  upon  his  crest :  "  Boldness  wins,"  did  not  pause  to 
reconnoitre,  but  leading  the  French  and  Canadians,  rapidly 
pursued,  hoping  in  the  panic  and  confusion  to  enter  with 
the  fugitives,  an  unfortified  camp;  but  again  the  Indians 
disappointed  and  deceived  him.  When  they  saw  the  sem 
blance  of  an  intrenchment,  and  "  heard  the  roar  of  cannon, 
stopped  short."  He  still  advanced,  but  soon  perceived  the 
Canadians  also  "  scattering  right  and  left."3 

Johnson,  when  he  heard  the  noise  of  the  battle,  and 
knew  by  its  approach  that  his  troops  were  retreating,  with 
admirable  promptitude  and  energy,  sent  forth  the  reen- 
forcement  of  Cole,  and  prepared  for  the  impending  conflict. 
The  skilled  woodsmen  of  New  England  rapidly  felled 
trees,  which,  with  the  wagons  and  baggage  formed  a  hasty 


1  A  cotemporaneous  account  states  that  Hendrik  fired  the  first  shot  in  the 
battle. —  Pownall  to  Lords  of  Trade,  Doc.,  vi,  1008. 
*Doc.,  x,  343.     aldem,  343. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  59 

and  partial  breastwork,  while  two  or  three  cannons  were 
hurried  from  the  shore  of  the  lake,  where  they  had  been 
placed  ready  for  embarkation.  The  defection  of  the 
irregular  troops  compelled  Dieskau  to  make  a  brief  halt 
in  front  of  the  works,1  which  was  a  precious  boon  to  the 
intrenching  provincials.  Then  ensued,  protracted  through 
the  horrors  of  more  than  four  hours,  the  most  severe  and 
bloodiest  fight  the  wilds  of  the  new  world  had  ever  wit 
nessed.  Dieskau  first  assaulted  with  his  regulars  the 
centre,  but,  "  thrown  into  disorder  by  the  warm  and  con 
stant  fire  of  the  artillery  and  colonial  troops,"  was  repulsed.2 
Then  he  assailed  the  left  flank,  and,  in  a  last  and  desperate 
effort,  hurled  his  wasted  and  bleeding  veterans  upon  the 
extreme  right,  with  the  impetuosity  and  heroic  daring 
that  belonged  to  the  troops  of  France.  But  this  attack  was 
also  crushed  by  the  overwhelming  fire  from  the  intrench- 
ments.  In  their  excited  ardor,  many  of  the  provincials 
and  Indians  leaping  over  the  frail  breastworks,  opposed 
the  butts  of  their  reversed  guns  to  the  glittering  bayonets 
of  the  French,  and  completed  with  a  great  slaughter, 
their  defeat.3  The  Canadians  and  Indians  inflicted  con 
siderable  loss  upon  the  Americans  from  an  adjacent 
morass,  but  were  dispersed  by  a  few  shots  thrown  into 
their  midst.  And  this  was  the  extent  of  their  services. 
However  inherently  brave,  as  was  attested  by  many  a 
bloody  field,  the  habitans  of  Canada  were  reluctant  and 
murmuring  levies,  forced  into  a  war  of  conquest  by  a 
ruthless  conscription,  that  swept,  on  the  threshold  of  har 
vest,  every  able-bodied  man  from  the  district  of  Montreal, 
leaving  their  crops  to  be  gathered  by  coerced  labor,  from 
other  sections  of  the  province.4 

Dieskau  appears  not  to  have  been  adapted  by  tempera 
ment  or  manners,  to  conciliate  the  attachment  or  to  com 
mand  the  confidence  of  his  savage  allies.  Instead  of 
indulging  in  familiar  intercourse  and  yielding  to  their 

1  Johnson's  official  report.    2  Johnson's  report.     3  Johnson,  idem, 
4  Breard  to  Machault,  Doc.,  x,  309. 


60  HISTORY  OP  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

habits  and  peculiarities,  he  maintained  with  them  —  and 
equally  with  his  subordinates  and  the  Canadians  —  the 
stately  German  style  of  seclusion  and  exclusiveness. 
This  course  destroyed  the  influence  and  devotion,  which 
could  only  be  exerted  over  their  rude  and  capricious  na 
ture,  by  controlling  their  impulses  and  affections.  They 
could  not  comprehend  the  motive  of  Dieskau  in  his  rapid 
attack  on  the  entrenched  camp,  and  asked  delay,  "  that 
they  might  rest  and  care  for  their  wounded."  When  he 
persisted,  they  exclaimed  in  amazement :  "  Father  you  have 
lost  your  reason,  listen  to  us."  l 

Dieskau,  thrice  wounded  and  disabled,  refused  to  be 
carried  from  the  field  by  Montrueil,  his  subordinate,  and 
"  ordered  him  in  the  king's  name  to  assume  the  command 
and  make  the  best  retreat  he  could."  2  Two  Canadians 
came  to  his  relief,  "  but  one  was  killed  outright,"  writes 
Dieskau,  "falling  across  my  legs  to  my  great  embarrass 
ment."  Bathed  in  blood  and  calmly  supporting  himself 
against  a  tree,  while  the  tempest  of  bullets  hurtled  about 
him,  he  remained  until  the  advance  of  the  provincials, 
when  he  was  again  deliberately  fired  at  by  a  refugee 
Frenchman.3  The  shot  penetrating  both  hips,  perforated 
an  internal  organ,  and  caused  a  wound,  which,  after  twelve 
years  of  extreme  suffering,  terminated  his  life.  But  his 
mental  anguish  far  exceeded  any  physical  suffering.  He 
was  allowed  by  his  king  to  languish  a  prisoner  until  the 
peace  of  1763,  neglected  by  his  country  and  an  object  of 
unjust  calumny  and  aspersion.4 

Dieskau,  when  his  name  was  known,  was  tenderly  borne 
by  the  victors  to  the  tent  of  Johnson,  placed  upon  his  bed 
and  received  the  prompt  aid  of  Johnson's  own  surgeon. 


1  Rough's  Pouchot,  i,  35,  47.    2  Idem,  343. 

8 "  Leaping  on  me,  he  said  in  very  good  French,  "  Surrender."  I  said  to 
him,  "  You  rascal,  why  did  you  fire  on  me  :  you  see  a  man  lying  on  the 
ground  bathed  in  blood,  and  you  fire  on  him,  eh  ?  "  He  answered,  "  How 
did  I  know  but  you  had  a  pistol  ?  I  prefer  to  kill  the  devil,  than  that  the 
devil  kill  me."—  Doc.,  x,  343. 

4  Dieskau  to  Belle  Isle.—  Doc.,  x,  806 ;  Idem,  594. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  61 

Several  Indians  forced  themselves  into  the  tent  and  in 
passionate  vehemence  claimed  the  prisoner,  that  they  might 
burn  him  to  expiate  the  death  of  their  chieftain.  The 
determined  attitude  of  Johnson  and  his  great  influence 
with  the  Mohawks,  alone  preserved  Dieskau  from  this 
horrid  doom.1  Romance  and  sympathy  still  linger  in  the 
popular  heart  around  the  name  of  Dieskau.  Able,  valiant 
and  generous,  he  fell,  almost  at  the  moment  of  victory,  by 
the  baseness  and  treachery  of  unworthy  followers.  He 
reached  the  St.  Lawrence  with  high  hopes  and  ardent  am 
bition,  when  June  had  scarcely  decorated  its  shores  in  the 
beauty  and  verdure  of  spring ;  but  before  the  autumnal 
leaves  had  fallen,  he  was  fatally  stricken,  defeated,  and  a 
captive.2 

St.  Pierre,  the  leader  of  the  French  Indians,  and  the  de 
fiant  but  chivalric  negotiator  with  Washington  on  the 
banks  of  the  Ohio  two  years  before,  fell  on  this  bloody 
field.  But  the  disasters  of  the  French  were  not  yet  termi 
nated.  The  army  had  scattered  into  fragments ;  and  a 
party  of  about  three  hundred,  stopping  for  a  brief  rest,  were 
encountered  by  a  body  of  provincials  under  McGinnis  of 
New  Hampshire  and  Folsom  of  New  York,  were  again 
routed  and  flying  in  confusion,  abandoned  all  their  bag 
gage  and  ammunition  to  the  conquerors.  This  triumph 
cost  the  life  of  the  gallant  McGinnis.3  The  French  at 
the  moment  of  the  assault  had  cast  oft'  the  packs  containing 
their  supplies,  and  in  the  confusion  of  their  hurried  retreat 
did  not  recover  them,  and  wandered  two  days  in  the  woods 
and  through  morasses  without  food.4 

The  losses  of  the  respective  armies  were  nearly  the  same, 
each  including  several  valuable  officers,  amounting  to  about 
four  hundred  and  fifty  of  the  French,  and  one  hundred 
less  of  the  English  and  Mohawks,  while  both  could  claim 
peculiar  advantages  from  the  results.  The  French  had 
arrested  the  advance  of  the  British  armies,  and  for  the  sea- 

1  Dieskau,  Doc.,  x,  348.    2  Bancroft.    3  Graham's  Colonial  History,  n,  200. 
4  Mortreuil  to  D'Argenson,  Doc.  x,  359. 


62  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

son  averted  an  attack  upon  the  works  on  Lake  Charaplain. 
For  Britain,  a  victory  had  been  achieved,  which,  succeeding 
so  soon  the  disasters  of  Braddock,  thrilled  the  land  with  joy 
and  exultation.  In  the  mind  of  the  provincials  the  prestige 
of  invincibility,  which  had  attached  to  science  and  disci 
pline  was  gone  forever,  and  the  issue  of  this  battle  had  its 
fruition  by  the  influence  it  imparted  in  a  future  and  a 
nobler  contest  for  national  independence  and  freedom.  The 
narrative  of  this  triumph  will  ever  warm  the  heart  of  the 
American  historian  with  interest  and  pride,  for  this  was  the 
first  field  on  which  the  yeomanry  of  the  colonies,  led  by 
their  own  citizens,  met  and  vanquished  the  trained  vete 
rans  of  Europe. 

Johnson,  at  an  early  stage  of  the  conflict,  was  wounded, 
and  left  the  field  and  the  battle  to  be  guided  by  the  con 
duct  and  intrepidity  of  Lyman  of  Massachusetts.  These 
and  the  fiery  and  persistent  valor  of  the  troops,  won  the 
victory.  The  Mohawks  and  the  colonists  were  alike  cla 
morous  for  the  pursuit  of  the  flying  enemy;  the  one  burn 
ing  to  avenge  the  death  of  their  beloved  sachem,  and  the 
other  panting  to  crush  a  foe  that  so  often  had  desolated 
their  own  borders  with  fire  and  blood.  But  the  prudence, 
or  timidity  of  Johnson  who  professed  to  fear  a  renewed 
attack  with  artillery,  restrained  their  ardor,  and  the  French 
secured  an  unmolested  retreat  to  Carillon.1  The  voice  of 
New  England  and  the  council  of  his  officers  urged  the  accom 
plishment  of  the  original  designs  of  the  campaign,  while  the 
French  army  was  demoralized  by  defeat,  the  works  at  Ticon- 
deroga  scarcely  commenced  and  the  walls  of  St.  Frederick 
crumbling,  but  the  Mohawks  returned  to  their  wigwams, 
and  Johnson,  irresolute  and  hesitating,  lost  the  occasion,  and 
wasted  the  season  in  the  profitless  labor  of  erecting  Fort 
William  Henry.  The  campaign  was  closed,  and  the  nrmy 
disbanded.2  On  another  field,  Johnson  vindicated  claims 
to  high  military  talents ;  but  here  he  seems  to  shrink  from 
risking  by  the  contingencies  of  war  laurels  already  plucked, 

1  Doc.,  x,  1013.     2  Bancroft  and  Graham. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  63 

and  which  he  probably  perceived  in  his  visions,  gilded  with 
future  honors  and  fortune.  Johnson  was  magnanimous  to 
wards  his  fallen  enemy,  but  unjust  and  ungenerous  to  his  as 
sociates.1  Ascribing  to  himself  the  glory  of  the  great  event, 
Lyman  was  not  named  in  the  official  report,  while  a  faint 
and  cold  commendatory  notice  was  extended  to  a  few  of 
the  subordinate  officers.  The  services  of  Lyman,  and  the 
courage  of  the  American  citizens,  who  achieved  the  vic 
tory,  received  from  England  neither  applause  nor  recogni 
tion,  while  Johnson  was  dignified  by  a  baronetcy,  made 
royal  superintendent  of  Indian  affairs  with  a  grant  by 
parliament  of  £5,000,  wrung  from  the  scanty  pittance 
allowed  the  suffering  colonies  for  the  burdens  they  had  in  a 
generous  patriotism  self-imposed. 

It  was  not  until  the  summer  succeeding  these  exciting 
events,  that  open  and  mutual  declarations  of  war  were 
proclaimed  between  France  and  England.  The  contest 
languished  during  the  year  1756  upon  the  borders  of 
Champlain.  In  that  year,  another  force  was  organized  for 
the  attack  of  Crown  point.  As  on  the  former  occasion 
the  colonies  presented  their  required  contingents,  but 
delays,  dissensions,  the  incapacity  and  indecision  of  the 
English  commanders,  again  exhausted  the  season.  Offen 
sive  operations  were  limited  to  the  bold  and  romantic 
exploits  of  the  American  rangers  and  the  partisan  corps  of 
France.  Rogers,  the  gallant  ranger,  was  particularly 
conspicuous  in  these  wild  and  daring  adventures.  Some 
times  stealing  under  the  cover  of  night  by  the  forts  in 
canoes,  he  lay  in  ambush  far  down  the  lake,  surprised  and 
captured  boats  laded  with  supplies,  which,  unsuspicious 
of  danger,  were  proceeding  to  relieve  the  garrisons.  Fre 
quently  he  approached  the  forts  by  land,  and  prowling 
about  them  with  Indian  skill  and  patience,  until  he  ascer 
tained  the  intelligence  he  was  ordered  to  collect,  he  cap 
tured  prisoners,  shot  down  stragglers,  burnt  dwellings,  and 

1  Dieskau  to  D'Argenson,  Doc.,  x,  318. 


64  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

slaughtered  cattle  feeding  around  the  works,  and  then  de 
fying  pursuit,  retreated  in  safety.1 

In  one  of  these  bold  incursions,  which  signalized  the 
opening  of  the  next  year,  Rogers  and  Stark  had  penetrated 
with  a  force  of  less  than  eighty  men,  to  a  point  between 
the  French  fortresses,  near  the  mouth  of  a  stream,  since 
known  as  Putnam's  creek,  and  there,  in  ambush,  awaited 
their  victims.  A  party  of  French  are  passing  in  gay  and 
joyous  security  on  the  ice  toward  Ticonderoga.  Part  are 
taken,  the  rest  escape  and  alarm  the  garrison.  The  rangers 
attempt  to  retreat,  pressing  rapidly  along  the  snow  path, 
in  Indian  file,  as  was  their  custom,  but  on  ascending 
the  crest  of  a  hill  they  receive  the  fire  of  an  overwhelming 
force,  posted  with  every  advantage  to  receive  them.2  A 
fierce  and  bloody  conflict  ensued,  protracted  from  near 
meridian  until  evening.  The  rangers  retreating  to  a  hill, 
are  protected  by  the  covert  of  the  trees  and  there  gallantly 
sustain  the  unequal  conflict.  Rogers,  twice  wounded, 
yields  the  command  of  the  little  band  to  Stark,  who  with 
infinite  skill  and  courage,  guides  the  battle,  repulses  the 
foe,  with  a  loss  far  exceeding  his  entire  force,  and  at  night 
conducts  a  successful  retreat  to  Lake  George.  Leaving 
there  his  wounded  and  exhausted  companions,  Stark, 
accompanied  by  only  two  volunteers,  traverses  on  snow 
shoes,  a  distance  of  forty  miles,  and  returns  to  them,  with 
aid  and  supplies  the  second  morning.  This  courageous 
band,  reduced  to  forty-eight  effective  men,  with  their  pri 
soners  effected  a  retreat  to  Fort  William  Henry  in  safety. 
This  incident,  brilliant  as  it  appears,  is  rivaled,  if  not 

1  Roger 's 's  Journal,  16,  18,  20,  24.     Rogers,  on  a  later  occasion,  manifested 
that  humor  was  blended  with  his  daring.     He  killed  fifteen  beeves  almost 
beneath  the  walls  of  Carillon,  and  to  the  horns  of  one  attached  a  paper  couched 
in  these  words:  "I  am  obliged  for  the  repose  you  have  allowed  me  to 
take ;  I  thank  you  for  the  fresh  meat  you  have  sent  me.     I  shall  take  care 
of  my  prisoners ;  I  request  you  to  present  my  compliments  to  the  Marquis 
De  Montcalm.     ROGERS,  Commandant  of  the  Independent  Companies." — 
Doc.,  x,  839. 

2  This  battle  is  supposed  to  have  occurred  near  the  residence  of  M.  B. 
Townsend,  in  Crown  point. —  C.  Fenton. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  65 

eclipsed  by  a  chivalric  and  daring  exploit  of  the  French. 
A  detachment  of  fifteen  hundred  French  and  Canadians, 
led  by  Vaudreuil  in  the  ensuing  February,  who  traversed  the 
ice  and  snows  of  Champlain  and  Lake  George,  a  distance 
of  more  than  one  hundred  miles,  traveling  upon  snow  shoes, 
"  their  provisions  on  sledges  drawn  by  dogs,  a  bear  skin  for 
their  coach,"  and  "a  simple  veil"  their  only  covering. 
Their  errand  was  the  surprise  and  capture  of  William  Henry. 
But  the  garrison  was  wary  and  vigilant.  The  fort  was 
defended  with  success,  although  the  vessels  and  bateaux, 
with  the  store  houses  and  hats  of  the  rangers  were  con 
sumed. 

On  the  return  of  the  French  from  this  expedition  they 
were  exposed  to  an  infliction,  rare  in  the  sufferings  incident 
to  war.  The  reflection  of  the  bright  March  sun  from  the 
dazzling  surface  of  the  snow  produced  a  partial  although 
temporary  blindness,  in  one-third  of  the  party.  So  severe 
was  this  opthalmic  attack,  that  those  affected  were  obliged 
to  be  led  by  their  companions.1 

A  bold  and  secret  attack  by  English  boats  upon  the  out 
works  and  flotilla  at  Ticonderoga,  was,  some  months  after, 
signally  defeated  with  severe  loss. 

The  northern  colonies,  still  eager  for  the  expulsion  of 
the  French  from  their  borders,  acceded  to  the  requisition 
of  Loudon,  and  assumed  to  raise  four  thousand  troops  for 
the  campaign  of  1757.  These  contingents,  they  supposed, 
were  designed  for  the  reduction  of  Crown  point  and 
Ticonderoga.  Loudon,  either  from  caprice  or  instability, 
suddenly  announced  the  abandonment  of  that  expedition, 
and  his  purpose  of  uniting  his  forces  for  the  conquest  of 
Louisburg.  This  futile  and  impracticable  scheme  left 
the  frontier  of  the  colonies  open  and  unprotected.  The 
vigilant  and  sagacious  enemy,  from  their  watch-towers,  at 
Carillon,  saw  the  error  and.  prepared  promptly  to  seize  the 
advantage. 

1  Garneau,  in,  88  ;  Pouchot. 
5 


66  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

CHAPTER  V. 
MONTCALM,  1756,  1757. 

The  Marquis  de  Montcalm  was  ordered  to  Canada  as  the 
successor  of  Dieskau.  A  nobleman  of  high  birth,  nurtured 
in  camps  from  the  age  of  fourteen,  animated  by  spirit  and 
genius  in  his  profession,  and  guided  by  an  uncommon  grasp 
of  views  and  perceptions  in  the  political  affairs  of  his  coun 
try,  he  was  calculated  to  act  a  distinguished  role  in  the 
bloody  drama  then  enacting  in  the  new  world.  Montcalm 
had  served  with  distinction  in  the  wars  of  Italy,  Germany, 
and  Bohemia,  and  numerous  wounds  attested  the  severity  of 
his  services.  He  was  a  scholar  deeply  conversant  with  the 
classics  of  Greece  and  Kome.  Eepeated  instances  in  the 
progress  of  events  had  illustrated  how  almost  utterly  value 
less  were  the  experience  and  science  gained  in  the  wars  of 
Europe,  in  projecting  or  conducting  a  campaign  in  the 
wilds  of  America.  The  acute  sagacity  of  Montcalm  at 
once  perceived  this  fact,  and  he  promptly  engaged  in  pro 
curing  "information  of  a  country  and  a  war,  in  which 
everything  is  different  to  what  obtains  in  Europe."1  Along 
the  vast  boundary  line  that  divided  the  possessions  of 
France  and  England,  extending  from  Acadia  to  the  Missis 
sippi,  an  unbroken  forest,  often  hundreds  of  miles  in  width, 
separated  the  occupied  districts  of  the  alien  provinces. 
These  forests  had  but  slight  assimilation  to  the  poetical 
green  woods  of  the  old  world,  but  disclosed  only  dark,  tan 
gled,  dank  and  impervious  tracts,  penetrated  alone  by  the 
trail  of  the  Indian.  On  either  side  the  bold  and  hardy 
pioneers  were  gradually,  but  constantly  invading  these 
solitudes.  Their  vigorous  arms  were  slowly  carving  out 
spots,  where  the  humble  cabins  were  built  upon  the  verge 
of  this  boundless  forest.  A  perpetual  warfare  was  waged 
between  the  savages,  who  regarded  these  wildernesses  as 
their  homes  and  their  hunting  grounds,  and  this  vanguard 

1  Doc.,  x,  400. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  67 

of  civilization.  The  aborigines  knew  no  other  method  of 
attack  than  the  secret  ambuscade,  and  surprise,  and  in 
actual  fighting,  the  covert  by  each  individual  of  a  tree,  a 
rock  or  a  bush.  The  practices  of  civilized  war,  the  con 
certed  manoeuvres  of  troops,  or  the  mechanism  that  moved 
drilled  battalions,  were  found  in  many  a  conflict  with 
Indian  warriors  without  efficiency,  and  powerless.  The 
instincts  of  self-preservation  compelled  the  settlers  to  adopt 
the  method  of  savage  arts,  and  they  became  expert  pupils 
in  this  horrid  warfare.  With  almost  equal  skill  as  their 
Indian  teachers,  they  learned  to  form  the  ambush,  to  make 
the  sudden  attack,  to  thread  the  intricacies  of  the  forest,  to 
pursue  the  trail  of  a  foe,  and  to  disguise  their  own.  The 
tomahawk  was  wielded  by  the  backwoodsman  with 
savage  dexterity,  and  even  the  terrible  offices  of  the  scalp- 
ing-knife  were  often  familiar  to  his  habits.1  In  these  wars, 
mercy  was  seldom  recognized,  and  a  mutual  extermination 
was  their  stimulating  motive. 

The  exigencies  of  these  circumstances  and  of  the  times, 
called  into  existence  a  novel  organization  of  troops,  little 
known  to  the  military  bureaux  of  Europe.  The  partisan 
corps  of  New  France,  and  the  American  rangers  and 
scouts,  combined  with  most  of  the  Indian  characteristics 
some  infusion  of  the  discipline  and  subordination  belong 
ing  to  regular  armies.  These  bodies,  especially  the 
French  corps,  united  with  a  large  savage  element,  were 
the  most  effective  and  active  arm  of  forest  warfare  upon 
the  borders  of  New  England,  and  E~ew  York.  These 
savages  reached  everywhere,  overwhelming  alike  the  hut 
of  the  frontier  and  the  dwellings  and  hamlets,  whose  re 
moteness  seemed  to  secure  immunity  from  danger ;  flank 
ing  armies  and  fortresses,  and  suddenly  striking  a  blow, 
far  in  the  interior  of  the  hostile  territory,  and  retreating 
by  the  light  of  burning  villages  or  the  flames  of  solitary 
cabins  with  the  scalps  of  childhood  and  age,  of  the  soldier 
and  woman,  they  would  steal  back  silently  to  their  lurk- 

1  Hough's  Pouchot,  77. 


68  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

ing  places.  Marin  —  the  Molang  of  tradition  and  popular 
tales — was  the  prominent  leader  of  the  French  expeditions, 
and  by  his  brilliant  qualities  as  a  partisan,  and  by  deeds 
of  valor,  often  sanguinary,  but  sometimes  redeemed  by 
generous  acts,  he  was  a  worthy,  though  formidable  antago 
nist  to  Rogers  and  Putnam,  the  gallant  chiefs  of  the 
American  rangers.  Marin  was  originally  attached  to  the 
navy  of  France,  but  at  an  early  age,  allured  by  the  romance 
and  daring  character  of  the  border  warfare  of  New  France, 
he  joined  the  irregular  forces  of  the  government,  formed 
of  Indians  and  Canadians. 

The  French,  far  more  than  the  English,  were  successful 
in  conducting  military  operations  in  association  with  their 
savage  auxiliaries.  More  flexible  in  their  own  feelings, 
they  were  more  yielding  and  tolerant  towards  the  peculiar 
habits  and  temperament  of  the  Indians.  Coercion  and 
reason  were  powerless  with  such  allies.  Capricious,  and 
intractable,  superstitious  and  fluctuating,  they  could  only 
be  moved  by  their  affections  and  controlled  by  an  apparent 
yielding  to  their  humors  and  impulses.  The  Indians,  in 
these  border  wars,  were  often  the  most  valuable  auxiliaries, 
and  achieved  victory  upon  more  than  one  important  field ; 
but  always  unreliable,  no  safe  calculations  could  be  placed 
upon  their  services,  their  fidelity  or  constancy.  Montcalm 
pronounced  them  inestimable  as  scouts  and  spies.  The 
corps  of  Marin,  so  dreaded  for  its  ubiquity,  its  bold  exploits, 
and  the  desolation  it  inflicted  upon  the  American  settle 
ments,  was  constituted  chiefly  of  Indians.  Scalps  and 
prisoners  commanded  their  price  in  market,  and  their 
comparative  value  was  decided  by  the  spirit  of  mercy  or  ven 
geance  which  happened  to  prevail  in  the  council  chamber.1 

Montcalm  arrived  in  May,  1756,  at  Quebec,  and  has 
tened  without  delay  to  the  frontier,  to  acquire  by  personal 
inspection  a  knowledge  of  its  conditions  and  capabilities 


1  Montcalm,  in  a  postscript  to  D'Argenson,  coolly  adds  :  "  Two  canoes 
arriving  while  I  write.  They  raise  the  dead  cry.  That  wail  announces 
that  they  have  killed  or  captured  eleven  English." —  Doc.,  x,  422. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  69 

of  defense.  Fifteen  busy  days  he  occupied  in  their  in 
vestigations.  "  Ambulances,"  he  writes,  "  in  a  horrible 
condition;  bread  bad;  the  works  at  Carillon  but  little 
advanced;  order  to  be  introduced  everywhere;  recogni 
zances  of  the  passes  to  be  made." l  Recalled  by  Vau- 
dreuil  to  Montreal,  he  "  traveled  night  and  day,"  and 
after  one  day  given  to  consultation,  repaired  with  the 
same  rapid  speed  to  Frontenac.  Such  zeal  animated 
the  ardor  of  Montcalm,  and  he  desired  to  impart  the  same 
spirit  to  all  branches  of  the  service  and  administration. 
In  August,  he  had  organized  an  adequate  force  and 
armament,  and  advancing  with  a  celerity  that  disguised 
his  movements,  he  suddenly  besieged  Oswego,  which, 
after  a  brief  defense,  capitulated.  Abandoning  his  con 
quest,  he  left  on  its  site  only  ruins  and  solitude.2  In  the 
autumn  and  winter  succeeding,  he  was  present  at  Carillon, 
and  directed  the  events  traced  in  the  close  of  the  last 
chapter.  Marin,  in  July,  1757,  was  dispatched  from 
Carillon,  with  a  small  body  of  Indians,  to  harass  the  Eng 
lish  scouting  parties.  He  surprised  near  Fort  Edward, 
and  attacked  with  success,  two  detachments,  and  retreated 
triumphantly  in  the  face  of  a  superior  force,  that  pursued 
him.  "  He  was  unwilling,"  wrote  Montcalm  to  Vaudreuil, 
"  to  amuse  himself  making  prisoners  ;  he  brought  in  one, 
and  thirty-two  scalps."  3  Did  this  cold  apathy  presage 
the  fearful  scenes  soon  to  occur  at  William  Henry  ? 

In  the  same  summer,  a  party  of  three  hundred  and  fifty 
provincials,  under  the  command  of  Colonel  Parker,  in. 
twenty-two  bateaux,  proceeding  incautiously  down  Lake 
George,  were  surprised  by  a  body  of  Ottawa  Indians  under 
Corbiere  at  Sabbath-day  point.  Only  two  boats  and  fifty 
men  escaped  the  fatal  ambush.4  The  next  year  when  the 
British  army  stopped  at  the  same  place,  they  "  beheld  the 
melancholy  remains  of  the  command  both  in  the  water 
and  on  the  land."5 

lDoc.,  x,  432.      2  Bancroft.      3  Doc.,  x.  591.     4  Idem,  594.     6  Idem,  734. 


70  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Montcalm  bad  directed  all  the  powers  of  his  genius  and 
energies  to  the  accomplishment  of  one  great  and  desirable 
triumph.  The  fort  at  the  head  of  Lake  George,  erected 
by  Johnson,  had  been  a  perpetual  object  of  alarm  and 
anxiety  to  the  government  of  Canada,  and  its  conquest  was 
a  determined  purpose,  cherished  in  the  colonial  policy. 
The  partial  success  of  Vaudreuil,  instead  of  repressing 
has  prompted  renewed  effort.  It  was  determined  that  the 
attempt  should  be  repeated,  with  a  force  and  efficiency, 
that  must  command  success.  In  aid  of  this  enterprise,  all 
the  savage  tribes,  controlled  by  the  influence  of  France, 
were  summoned.  Their  warriors  gathered  from  the  wilds 
of  Lake  Superior  to  the  shores  of  Acadia,  assembled 
around  the  fort  at  St.  Johns.  Montcalm,  glowing  with 
the  triumph  at  Oswego,  was  there.  By  his  success,  his 
courage  and  endurance,  he  had  conciliated  their  affection. 
He  justly  wrote  "  I  have  seized  their  manners  and  genius.1 

He  mingled  in  their  war  dance,  and  chanted  their  war 
songs,  captivating  their  hearts  by  his  largesses  and  kind 
ness,  and  exciting  their  savage  passions  by  visions  of  plun 
der  and  revenge.  The  warriors  embarked  in  two  hundred 
canoes,  bearing  the  distinctive  pennons  of  the  various 
nations:  the  priests  accompanied  their  neophytes,  and 
while  the  war  chants  strangely  blended  with  the  hymn  of 
the  missionary,  passed  up  Lake  Champlain,  to  unite  at 
Ticonderoga  their  rude  forces  with  the  legions  of  Montcalm. 
These  had  been  rapidly  assembled  at  Crown  point  and 
Carillon. 

The  transportation  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  bateaux 
and  two  hundred  canoes  across  the  portage  between  Lake 
Champlain  and  Lake  George,  a  space  of  about  three  miles, 
"  without  the  aid  of  oxen  or  horses  "  was  a  gigantic  labor, 
achieved  by  " men's  arms  alone;  entire  brigades  headed 
by  their  officers,  relieved  each  other  in  the  work."2  The 
next  day,  when  all  the  preliminaries  -had  been  arranged, 
Montcalm  called  together  the  chiefs  of  the  tribes  in  coun- 

lDoc.,  x,  686.        3  Idem,  608. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  71 

cil.  Upon  the  shore  of  the  lake  uthey  were  placed  in 
ranks  settled  by  themselves."  The  domiciliated  Iroquois, 
the  most  numerous  of  the  bands,  and  "  the  former  pro 
prietors  of  the  soil,"  assumed  the  office  of  hosts,  and 
received  the  remote  tribes  with  the  rites  due  to  strangers. 
To  the  Iroquois,  Montcalm  presented  the  "  great  belt  of 
two  thousand  beads,  to  bind  the  Indians  to  each  other 
and  all  to  himself."  When  the  tribes  had  been  thus  pro 
pitiated,  he  unfolded  to  them  all  the  plans  of  the  expedi 
tion.1  These  were  satisfactory,  and  were  adopted  by  a 
formal  acquiescence.  The  insufficient  supply  of  boats 
made  it  necessary  for  a  part  of  the  army  to  proceed  by 
land.  De  Levis,  with  twenty-two  hundred  French  and 
Canadians,  escorted  by  six  hundred  Indians,  starting  two 
days  in  advance  and  leaving  their  baggage  to  be  conveyed 
by  water,  undertook  to  traverse  the  rugged  mountain 
track  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  which  was  scarcely 
practicable  to  the  solitary  hunter.  On  the  1st  of  August, 
the  remainder  of  the  forces  embarked  in  bateaux.  The 
artillery  was  transported  upon  pontoons,  constructed  by 
platforms  resting  on  two  boats,  which  were  lashed  together. 
The  Christian  Indians  had  employed  the  preceding  days 
in  the  confessional,  and  devotion ;  but  the  pagan  tribes 
from  the  upper  lakes  "  were  juggling,  dreaming,  and  fancy 
ing  that  every  delay  portended  misfortune."  These  tribes 
suspended  "  a  full  equipment  to  render  the  Manitou  pro 
pitious."  Montcalm,  in  a  severe  austerity,  to  which  he 
cordially  subjected  himself,  reduced  the  supplies  of  the 
army  to  absolute  necessities.2  He  appropriated  "  a  canvas 
awning  to  every  two  officers,  of  whatever  grade."  "A 
blanket  and  a  bear  skin,"  he  said,  "  are  the  bed  of  a  war 
rior  in  such  an  expedition."3 


1  These  independent  people,  whose  assistance  is  purely  voluntary,  must 
be  consulted,  and  their  opinions  and  caprices  are  often  a  law  to  us." — Doc., 
x,  609. 

2  Doc.,  x,  610.        3  Idem,  637,  Montcalm's  Circular. 


72  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

The  army  was  composed  of  about  five  thousand  five 
hundred  effective  men,  with  an  auxiliary  force  of  sixteen 
hundred  Indians.1  On  the  second  day,  early  in  the  morning, 
they  saw  three  signal  fires  at  Ganaouske  bay,  that  an 
nounced  the  arrival  of  De  Levis,  and  the  assurance  of 
security  in  disembarkation.  De  Levis  had  encountered 
toils  and  obstacles,  which  were  only  surmounted  by  the 
perseverance  of  hardihood  acquired  from  the  habits  and 
example  of  their  Indian  allies.  The  same  evening  Mont- 
calm  advanced  towards  the  fort.  During  the  night  two 
English  scout  boats  were  discovered  upon  the  lake,  and 
pursued  by  the  swift  war  canoes  of  the  Indians.  One  of 
these  boats  was  captured.  Two  only  of  the  crew  were  saved, 
and  the  others  massacred.2  In  the  fight  a  distinguished 
warrior  of  the  Nipissings  was  slain,  and  the  next  day  the 
Indians  consecrated  to  his  funeral  rites,  in  all  the  splendor 
and  display  of  barbarian  ceremonies.3  The  fort,  garrisoned 
by  five  hundred  men,  commanded  by  a  gallant  veteran, 
Colonel  Munroe,  and  supported  by  seventeen  hundred 
troops  in  an  intrenched  camp  adjacent,  Montcalm  was 
promptly  and  perfectly  invested.  De  Levis  occupied  the 
right,  the  most  exposed  and  important  position,  and  held 
the  road  leading  to  Fort  Edward ;  Boulemarque  took 
position  on  the  left  resting  upon  the  lake,  and  Montcalm 
held  the  centre.4  Immediately  before  the  investment, 
Webb,  who  lay  at  Fort  Edward,  fourteen  miles  distant, 
with  four  thousand  men,  had  visited  William  Henry,  es 
corted  by  Putnam  and  a  body  of  rangers.  Putnam  de 
scending  the  lake  in  a  reconnaissance,  discovered  the 
approach  of  Montcalm,  and  at  once  returned,  communicat 
ing  the  fact  to  Webb,  and  urging  him  to  prepare  to  oppose 


lDoc.,  x,  625. 

3  The  French  account  magnifies  the  crews  into  a  hundred  and  fifty  men, 
of  whom  "  sixty  or  seventy  were  captured  or  drowned."     The  Indians  at 
tacked  in  their  birch  canoes,  and  by  swimming  "  with  guns  and  hatchets."- 
Pouchot,  i,  86. 

3  Bancroft. 

*  Doc.  x,  601, 611.  De  Levis  did  not  hold  the  left  wing  as  stated  by  Bancroft. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  73 

the  landing.  Webb,  enjoining  secresy  upon  Putnam, 
hastily  returned  to  Fort  Edward.  Johnson,  on  the  day  of 
Montcalm's  departure  from  Carillon,  received  intelligence 
from  Webb  of  the  impending  attack,  and  abandoning  an 
Indian  council  in  wbich  he-  was  engaged,  collected  the 
militia  and  Indians  he  was  able  to  muster,  and  marched 
rapidly  to  Fort  Edward,  which  he  reached  on  the  second 
day  of  the  siege.  The  craven  supineness  of  Webb  was  long 
deaf  to  the  entreaties  and  expostulations  of  his  subordi 
nates  to  attempt  the  relief  of  the  beleaguered  fortress.  He 
at  length  conceded  to  Johnson  a  reluctant  permission  to 
advance  with  the  militia  and  rangers.  But  these  generous 
designs  were  arrested,  when  they  had  scarcely  proceeded 
three  miles,  by  an  imperative  order  from  Webb  to  return.1 
Montcalm  was  apprised  of  the  movements  of  Johnson,  and 
with  his  accustomed  promptness  prepared  to  meet  it. 

The  sole  interest  manifested  by  Webb  for  the  heroic  gar 
rison,  struggling  in  their  hopeless  position,  was  a  chilling 
letter  agitated  by  exaggerated  fears,  which  he  attempted 
to  communicate  to  Monroe.  In  this  letter,  which  was 
interrupted  by  Montcalm,  but  eagerly  forwarded  to  Monroe, 
Webb  advised,  if  u  from  the  delays  of  the  militia  he  should 
not  have  it  in  his  power  to  give  timely  assistance,"  Monroe 
should  obtain  the  best  terms  left  in  his  power.2  2For  this 
letter  see  appendix  A.]  On  the  same  fortunate  day  of  this 
event,  Montcalm  received  dispatches  from  France  announc 
ing  "  royal  favors  to  his  army  and  conferring  upon  himself 
"  the  red  ribbon  with  the  rank  of  commander  in  the  order 
of  St.  Louis."  The  army  was  animated  with  a  more 
ardent  enthusiasm  by  this  appreciation  of  the  king,  and 
the  Indians  "  hastened  to  compliment  the  general  at  the 
distinction  which  the  great  Onontio3  had  just  decorated 

1  Thompson's  Vermont ;  Stone.    2  PoucJiot,  n,  263. 

3  This  term  of  respect  was  applied  indiscriminately  "by  the  Indians  to  the 
king  of  France,  the  governor-general  or  other  high  officials.  Its  literal 
meaning  is  great  mountain,  an  epithet  originally  applied  to  M.  De  Mont- 
magny,  governor  of  Canada,  of  whose  name  it  is  a  translation.  (O'Calla- 
ghan's  note,  Doc.,  ix,  37). 


74  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

him,  as  they  knew  how  highly  he  esteemed  it ;  that,  as  for 
themselves,  they  did  not  love  or  esteem  him  the  more  on 
that  account,  it  was  his  person  they  loved,  and  not  what 
he  added  to  the  exterior."1  On  the  sixth  day  of  the 
siege,  Monroe,  half  his  guns  useless  and  his  ammunition 
nearly  exhausted,  hung  out  a  flag  of  truce.  Terms  the 
most  liberal  were  extended  to  the  garrison,  either  from  a 
magnanimous  respect  for  its  gallant  defense  or  dictated  by 
an  apprehension  that  Webb  might  arouse  from  his  stupor 
and  imbecility  and  assail  the  French  rear. 

It  was  stipulated  by  the  first  article  of  the  capitulation, 
that  the  English  troops  should  march  out  of  the  works 
"  with  their  arms  and  other  honors  of  war,"  and  be  escorted 
on  the  road  to  Fort  Edward  by  a  detachment  of  French 
troops  and  interpreters  attached  to  the  Indians.2  In  order 
to  secure  their  performance  of  this  capitulation,  the  Indians 
were  made  parties  to  it,  and  formally  ratified  its  provisions. 

The  appalling  event  which  followed  the  capitulation  are 
involved  in  impenetrable  mystery.  They  have  been  so  dis 
torted  bv  passionate  exaggerations  and  screened  by  such 
earnest  and  varied  apologies  and  evasions,  that  they  must 
ever  remain  among  those  problems  in  history,  to  which 
neither  research  nor  speculations  can  afford  any  solution. 
This  and  many  similar  atrocities  have  been  written  upon 
the  page  of  history,  by  unwise  and  unchristian  policy, 
which  added  to  the  horrors  of  war  by  the  introduction  of 
fierce  and  savage  barbarism  into  the  conflicts  between  civil 
ized  nations.  The  distinct  facts,  which  can  be  extracted 
from  the  confusion  of  conflicting  statements  and  the  angry 
passions  of  the  times  are  nearly  these.  The  night  suc 
ceeding  the  capitulation  had  been  spent  by  the  Indians,  in 
celebrating  the  victory  with  their  customary  orgies.  Their 
minds  were  inflamed  by  the  recital  by  the  eastern  tribes  of 
real  or  imaginary  wrongs  recently  inflicted  by  the  English.3 
As  the  garrison  was  marching  from  the  entrenchments 
early  in  the  morning,  the  Indians  in  a  menacing  attitude 

1  Doc.,  x,  613.        a  Idem,  617.        3  Idem,  616. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  75 

gathered  about  them  and  commencing  their  outrages  by 
seizing  the  personal  effects  of  the  prisoners  and  brandish 
ing  the  tomahawk  and  amusing  themselves  with  the  terror 
their  savage  pastimes  excited  among  the  English.  Indivi 
dual  resistance  was  probably  made  to  these  indignities,  and 
personal  conflicts  ensued.  The  Indians  saw  spoils,  which 
as  victors  they  thought  belonged  to  themselves,  eluding 
their  grasp.1  This  idea  combined  with  their  inherent  love 
of  slaughter  aroused  their  savage  appetites.  "  The  first 
blood  that  flowed  inflamed  all  the  ferocity  of  their  nature, 
and  for  a  while  they  recognized  no  regard  to  treaties  or 
any  restraints  of  power  or  influence.  The  panic-stricken 
Englishmen  broke  from  their  ranks,  and,  forgetting  the 
weapons  in  their  hands,  fled  in  wild  dismay  pursued  by  the 
frenzied  savages.  At  this  moment  Montcalm  and  other 
French  officers  rushed  upon  the  scene  baring  their  own 
breasts  and  interposing  their  arms  for  the  protection  of  the 
prisoners  and  "  by  threats,  prayers,  caresses  and  conflicts 
with  the  chiefs,  arrested  the  massacre."2  "  Kill  me,"  cried 
Montcalm,"  but  spare  the  English,  who  are  under  my  pro 
tection."  More  than  half  the  British  troops,  in  fragmentary 
detachments  succeeded  in  reaching  Fort  Edward ;  about 
thirty  were  slain ;  four  hundred  were  rescued  with  their 
property  and  restored  under  the  capitulation  by  Montcalm, 
and  many  others,  at  his  solicitation,  were  ransomed  from 
the  Indians  by  Yaudreuil.3  It  is  evident  that  the  escort  of 
French  troops  stipulated  by  the  capitulation  were  not  sup 
plied  until  after  the  massacre.4 

Montcalm  and  his  apologists  affirm  in  his  vindication, 
that  the  English  troops,  in  uncontrollable  alarm,  left  the 
intrenchments  at  an  earlier  hour  than  had  been  agreed 
upon  ;  that  they  had  possessed,  by  the  arms  they  carried, 
the  means  of  resistance,  but  instead  of  this,  scattered  in 
ungovernable  frenzy ;  that  in  disregard  of  the  injunctions 
of  the  French,  they  gave  intoxicating  liquor  to  the  In 
dians,  in  the  hope  of  conciliating  them ;  that  Montcalm 

1  Pouchot.        2  Doc.,  x,  637.        8  Doc.        *  Idem. 


76  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

was  powerless  to  control  the  hordes  of  peculiarly  wild 
and  ferocious  savages  who  perpetrated  the  massacre,  but 
had  relied  on  the  assurances  of  the  chiefs,  that  they  would 
maintain  the  treaty  and  prevent  all  discord;  and  that 
every  effort  was  made  by  Montcalm  and  his  subordinates, 
to  arrest  the  violence,  and  by  these  exertions,  an  indis 
criminate  slaughter  of  the  prisoners  was  averted. 

These  apologies  are  not  fully  sustained  by  the  authen 
ticated  facts.  Bourgainville,  the  aide  and  adviser  of 
Montcalm,  explicitly  states  in  his  official  report,  that  he 
had  destroyed  "  on  the  day  of  the  surrender,  all  intoxicat 
ing  liquors  in  the  English  works."1  Montcalm,  in  his 
first  summons  to  Monroe,  avowed  a  distrust  of  an  ability  to 
control  his  savage  allies.  With  that  knowledge,  he  should 
have  exerted  the  right  and  power  of  the  victor,  if  the 
English,  in  their  infatuation  and  terror,  were  rushing 
upon  these  appalling  dangers,  and  arrested  them  by 
force,  until  an  adequate  protection  was  prepared.  No 
motive  of  policy  ;  no  desire  to  propitiate  the  affections  of 
the  Indians,  should  have  received  the  consideration  of  a 
moment,  in  restraining  the  exercise  of  his  whole  military 
force,  for  the  preservation  of  his  own  fame,  the  honor  of 
his  country,  and  the  sacred  faith  of  a  capitulation.  One, 
who  himself  participated  in  the  horrors  of  the  scene,  and 
stripped  of  his  clothing,  narrowly  escaped  the  massacre, 
insists  in  a  minute  account  of  the  occurrences,  "  that  the 
French  neglected,  and  even  refused  protection  to  the 
English,"  imploring  their  mercy  and  interposition.2  Bri 
tish  Indians,  who  were  with  the  garrison,  the  French 
savages  seized  upon,  without  interference,  and  they  per 
ished  in  lingering  and  barbarous  tortures.3 

Calm  history  will  always  reject  the  impassioned  tales, 
evolved  from  the  exasperation  and  excitement  of  the  times, 
of  the  complicity  of  Montcalm  in  a  cold-blooded  and  pre 
meditated  slaughter  of  capitulated  prisoners,  and  the 
wanton  and  barbarous  cruelties  imputed  to  him.  Such 


1  Doc.,  x,  615.        a  Carver's  Travels,  204.        3  Graham,  n,  268. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  77 

atrocities  were  utterly  incompatible  with  his  high  character 
as  a  Christian  noble,  a  gallant  soldier  and  a  refined  scholar, 
whose  sensibilities  had  been  purified  and  elevated  by  com 
munion  with  the  poets  and  philosophers  of  antiquity.  But 
it  can  never  exonerate  his  fame  from  the  imputation  of 
criminal  negligence  and  a  reckless  disregard  to  the  safety 
of  those  confided  to  his  honor  and  protection  by  the  most 
solemn  act  known  to  warfare.  A  moral  responsibility  for 
the  consequences  rests  upon  those,  who  set  in  motion  a 
power,  which  they  know  they  have  no  ability  to  guide  or 
control.  The  Indians,  in  their  eager  pursuit  of  plunder 
and  scalps,  violated  many  new  made  graves,  and  tore  from 
the  decaying  corpses  the  dread  trophies  that  commanded 
rewards.  Several  of  these  graves  contained  victims  to  the 
small-pox.  The  plunderers  contracted  the  infection,  and 
bore  the  fell  scourge  to  their  winter  lodges  in  the  far  west. 
Its  fearful  desolation  among  the  savages  who  knew  no 
remedy,  and  in  superstitious  dread  sought  no  relief,  cannot 
be  conceived.  The  noble  tribe  of  the  Pottawattomies  was 
nearly  extinguished  by  its  ravages.1 

The  total  demolition  of  William  Henry,  and  the  capture 
of  an  immense  quantity  of  munitions  and  public  stores 
were  the  rewards  of  this  expedition.  Montcalm's  triumph 
was  mingled  with  deep  satisfaction,  when  he  reported  that 
this  conquest  had  been  achieved  with  the  loss  of  only  fifty- 
three  of  his  own  arrny.  On  the  15th  of  August,  he  aban 
doned  a  smoking  ruin  and  bloody  strand  to  silence  and 
desolation.  An  ulterior  object  of  the  campaign  contem 
plated  the  reduction  of  Fort  Edward.  Had  Montcalm 
comprehended  the  imbecility  and  paralysis  that  had  fallen 
upon  the  British  councils,  this  result  and  possibly  the  de 
struction  of  Albany  might  have  been  accomplished.  But 
the  existence  of  facts  so  degrading,  could  scarcely  enter 
into  the  calculations  of  his  gallant  spirit.  The  diminution 
of  his  forces  an  advance  would  have  demanded,  the  limited 
extent  of  his  supplies,  and  the  urgent  necessity  imposed 

1Pouchot,  i,91. 


78  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

by  an  impending  famine  for  the  presence  of  the  Canadians 
in  their  harvest  fields,  constrained  Montcalm  to  be  satisfied 
with  the  glory  and  success  he  had  already  achieved.  Terror 
and  alarm  pervaded  the  English  colonies.  Webb  sent  his 
personal  baggage  to  a  place  of  security,  and  was  preparing 
to  fall  back  upon  the  highlands  of  the  Hudson.  Loudon, 
to  defend  the  British  possessions,  had  taken  post  upon 
Long  Island.  The  English  were  expelled  from  the  Ohio. 
Montcalm  had  established  the  domination  of  France 
throughout  the  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  A  deep  con 
sternation  and  a  cry  of  agony  agitated  New  England. 
Britain  and  the  colonies  were  alike  stricken  and  humiliated.1 


CHAPTER  VI. 

TlCONDEROGA,    1758. 

The  opening  of  the  year  1758,  was  marked  by  an  aug 
mented  activity  and  determination  in  the  councils  and 
operations  of  each  of  the  belligerents.  France  and  Eng 
land,  alike  comprehended  that  the  crisis  was  approaching 
which  must  decide  their  protracted  struggle  for  the  sove- 
reiguity  of  the  North  American  continent.  In  that  field, 
the  vast  disproportion  in  their  material  resources  and 
military  strength,  became  constantly  more  obvious  and 
decisive.  Much  of  the  soil  of  Canada,  for  more  than  one 
season,  had  been  abandoned  or  only  partially  tilled,  and 
the  scanty  harvest  insufficiently  gathered,  while  a  large 
proportion  of  the  peasantry,  who  should  have  cultivated 
the  earth  and  gathered  the  crops,  had  been  drawn  into  the 
field  by  the  exigencies  of  the  war.  An  un propitious  sea 
son  in  1757,  caused  a  failure  of  the  harvest,  and  especially 
that  of  wheat,  which  was  the  chief  reliance  of  both  the 
people  and  the  army.  For  more  than  six  months  in  the 
year,  nature  formed  an  impenetrable  barrier  to  the  naviga- 

1  Bancroft. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  79 

tion  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  British  ships  thronged  the  track 
of  the  ocean  between  France  and  her  colonies,  rendering  the 
transmission  of  supplies  and  troops  precarious  and  nearly 
impracticable.  A  scarcity  that  nearly  reached  destitution, 
already  prevailed  in  Canada.1  In  February,  1758,  Mont- 
calm  addressing  the  French  minister  writes  :  "  the  article 
of  provisions  makes  me  tremble."2 

The  population  of  Canada  was  estimated  by  Montcalm 
at  only  eighty -two  thousand,  and  from  these  he  computed 
he  might  rely  upon  about  seven  thousand  men  in  the  field 
at  one  time.  This  force  was  augmented  by  nearly  four 
thousand  regular  troops.  With  this  strength  and  with 
such  resources,  he  was  required  to  confront  an  army  of 
fifty  thousand  men,  subject  to  the  orders  of  Abercrombie,3 
and  sustained  by  a  rich  and  prosperous  population  in  the 
British  colonies  of  a  million  and  a  half,  enjoying  a  constant 
and  commodious  intercourse  with  England.  These  em 
barrassments  were  aggravated  by  other  annoyances  and 
difficulties,  that  galled  the  high,  incorruptible  spirit  of 
Montcalm,  and  fettered  his  energies.  An  universal  scheme 
of  venality  and  peculation  pervaded  every  branch  of  the 
colonial  government.  The  king  was  defrauded,  and  public 
measures  paralyzed  ;  the  people  were  oppressed,  and  the 
army,  both  officers  and  men,  suffering  and  impoverished. 
Huge  fortunes  awarded  the  corrupt  and  debauched  officials.1 
A  bitter  animosity,  inflamed  by  perpetual  charges  and 

1  Vaudreuil  states  that  in  the  late  expeditions  of  the  autumn  of  1757,  the 
troops  were  chiefly  dependent  for  support  upon  the  uncertain  toils  of  the 
hunters. — Doc,.,  x,  701.  The  citizens  received  a  daily  supply  of  one-fourth 
of  a  pound  of  bread,  and  this  scanty  ration  was  reduced  to  two  ounces. — 
Montcalm,  448.  Doreil  writes :  "  many  persons  have  died  of  hunger.  Idem 
898.  *Idem,  686. 

3Hildreth. 

*Doc.,  x,  960,  963.  At  the  termination  of  the  war,  these  frauds  were 
investigated  in  France  judicially.  Vandreuil  was  acquitted.  Bigot,  the 
intendant,  Varin,  the  commissary  at  Montreal,  Breard,  the  comptroller  of 
the  navy,  were  convicted  and  banished.  Pean,  the  instrument  of  these 
iniquities,  by  the  influence  of  his  wife,  the  mistress  of  Bigot  (Pouchot),  and 
the  Madame  Pompadour  of  Canada,  was  mulct  in  the  sum  of  600,000 
livres. —  O'Callaghan,  Doc.,  x,  1126. 


80  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

mutual  recriminations,  disturbed  the  relations  between 
Yaudreuil  and  Montcalm.  The  one  imputed  to  the  governor- 
general  gross  ignorance  in  military  affairs,  duplicity,  and 
disingenuousness  in  the  exertion  of  power,  and  practices  that 
trammelled  and  embarrassed  his  operations.1  Vaudreuil 
complained  of  the  arrogance  of  Montcalm,  his  jealousies 
and  the  assumption  of  authority  not  warranted  by  his 
position.2 

In  every  age  and  in  all  countries,  commanders,  operating 
in  a  remote  field  of  action,  have  often  experienced  the 
paralyzing  influence  produced  by  the  instructions  and  the 
intrusive  councils  of  men,  who  are  necessarily  ignorant  of 
concurring  events  and  often  without  a  competent  know 
ledge  of  military  affairs.  Generals  have  felt  this  malign 
influence,  and  history  has  recognized  and  recorded  it  as 
the  aulic  council  policy  in  war.  Genius  and  spirit  have 
often  commanded  success  in  ascending  beyond  or  bursting 
through  these  restraints.  Montcalm  was  not  exempt  from 
this  blind  and  arbitary  intrusion  into  his  measures.  While 
tracing  the  military  character  of  Boulamarque,  Montcalm 
portrays  with  equal  force  both  the  nature  and  effect  of 
this  system  when  he  says :  Boulamarque  "  follows  too 
literally  orders  issued  eighty  leagues  distant,  by  a  general 
who  knows  not  how  to  speak  of  war." 

These  favorable  circumstances,  which  were  calculated 
to  impart  such  preponderance  to  England  in  American 
affairs,  were  to  a  certain  extent  counterbalanced  by  advan 
tages  peculiar  to  France. 

The  British  provinces  were  independent  in  their  govern 
ment  by  their  chartered  organization,  and  widely  separated 
in  geographical  position.  These  incidents  often  produced 
conflicts  of  interest,  collision  in  sentiments,  and  acrimonious 
jealousies.  An  absence  of  that  harmony,  so  essential  to 
successful  action,  was  not  unfrequently  apparent  in  their 
councils.  The  population  of  Canada  was  concentrated  and 
accessible,  and  all  the  measures  and  resources  of  the  colony 

1  Doc.,  x,  786, 800,  778,  812.        3  Idem,  885, 781.        3  Idem,  491. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  81 

were,  in  theory,  controlled  by  a  single  mind,  which  could 
decide  and  act,  while  the  English  governments  were  con 
tending  or  advising.  French  policy  and  intrigues  excited 
a  perpetual  alarm  or  hostility  against  England  among  the 
Indian  tribes,  that  lay  along  the  borders  of  her  colonies 
from  Acadia  to  the  Spanish  possessions,  and  hung  like  a 
dark  and  threatening  cloud  upon  their  horizon,  which 
might  at  any  moment  burst  upon  their  settlement  in  tem 
pests  of  fire  and  blood.  This  sagacious  policy  of  France, 
which  to  such  an  extent  fettered  the  strength  of  the  Eng 
lish  colonies,  cannot  be  understood  without  a  comprehension 
of  the  dread  inspired  at  that  time  by  the  horrors  of  an 
Indian  war.  The  people  of  Canada,  although  continually 
revolted  by  the  supercilious  and  arbitrary  deportment  of  the 
French,  which  was  limited  to  no  grade,  sustained  the  conflict 
with  a  zeal  and  devotion  never  surpassed  by  any  race  in  any 
age  of  the  world.1  The  great  amount  of  Canadian  levies  which 
joined  the  French  armies,  so  totally  in  excess  of  the  pro 
portion  usually  supplied  by  an  equal  population,  may  be 
referred  to  a  cause,  which  possibly  exerted  some  influence 
in  stimulating  the  great  apparent  ardor.  The  feudal  system, 
as  it  existed  in  France  in  the  seventeenth  century,  was 
transplanted  into  Canada  at  its  colonization.  The  seignio 
ries  in  the  province  were  held  under  the  feudal  tenure, 
which  included  military  service.  The  sovereign  preroga 
tive  under  this  system  was  empowered  to  call  out  the 
seigneurs,  and  the  tenants  holding  under  them  were  sub 
ject  to  their  military  orders  in  obedience  to  the  call.  This 
fact  partially  explains  the  extraordinary  aspects  exhibited 
by  the  virtual  conscriptions  of  this  epoch.  Montcalm,  in 
one  of  his  letters  presenting  an  estimate  of  the  Canadian 
force  he  might  calculate  on,  uses  the  feudal  terms  ban  and 
arriere-ban. 

But  we  must  ascribe  to  the  immense  superiority  in  cha 
racter  and  intellectual  qualities  of  the  men  who  guided  the 
civil  and  military  affairs  of  the  province,  the  prominent 

1  Doc.,  x,  463,  585. 


82  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

agency  by  which  the  preeminence  of  France  was  so  long 
sustained  on  the  continent  and  by  which  the  impending  ruin 
of  its  empire  was  so  long  averted.  Britain  sent  to  her 
colonies  effete  generals,  bankrupt  nobles,  and  debauched 
parasites  of  the  court.  France  selected  her  function 
aries  from  the  wisest,  noblest  and  best  of  her  people, 
and  therefore  her  colonial  interests  were  usually  directed 
with  wisdom  and  sagacity.  England  and  America  were 
raised  from  their  humiliation  and  despondency  by  the 
potent  genius  and  splendid  combinations  of  Pitt.  His 
ardent  appeals  to  the  patriotism  of  the  colonies,  although 
enforced  by  no  coercion  of  power,  aroused  and  enlisted 
their  whole  energies  in  support  of  that  gigantic  scheme, 
which  contemplated  a  widely  extended  attack  on  all  the 
colonial  dominions  of  France.  The  irregular  warfare 
between  the  rangers  and  partisans  and  the  savage  auxi 
liaries  of  both  nations,  crowded  into  the  spring  and  early 
summer  deeds  of  brilliant  courage  achieved  in  scenes  of 
romance  and  excitement.  In  March,  Rogers  left  Fort 
Edward  with  one  hundred  and  eighty  men  under  orders  to 
make  a  reconnaissance  in  the  vicinity  of  Ticonderoga.  He 
marched  upon  the  ice,  until  he  approached  the  French  out 
posts,  when  to  disguise  their  presence,  the  party  plunged 
into  the  dense  forest,  traversing  the  deep  snow  through 
thickets  and  over  broken  ground  upon  snow  shoes.  Hav 
ing  nearly  reached  the  foot  of  the  lake,  they  encountered 
a  body  of  about  one  hundred  Indians  and  Canadians. 
These  they  attacked  and  dispersed.  Pursuing  in  the  con 
fidence  of  victory,  the  rangers  were  suddenly  confronted 
by  a  largely  superior  force,  which  had  used  their  advanced 
guard  to  allure  the  English  into  an  ambush.  To  retreat 
was  impossible,  and  a  desperate  conflict  ensued.  The 
rangers  scattered  into  small  parties,  fought  independently 
with  their  wonted  ardor,  but  were  defeated,  and  almost 
the  whole  detachment  slaughtered.1  Many  submitted  to 

1  Near  the  scene  of  this  battle  is  Rogers'  slide.     The  marvelous  escape, 
imputed  to  him  by  tradition,  must  have  occurred  after  this  reverse,  but  I 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  83 

capitulation,  but  were  slain  under  circumstances  of  peculiar 
atrocity.  Rogers,  with  a  small  number  escaped,  but  one 
hundred  and  forty-four  scalps,  with  two  living  letters,  the 
designation  the  Indians  gave  to  prisoners  whom  they  saved 
for  intelligence,  were  the  horrid  trophies  they  bore  to  Mont- 
calm.1  This  was  one  of  the  most  novel  and  remarkable 
conflicts  that  impressed  their  strange  wildness  upon  these 
forest  campaigns.  It  was  fought  in  a  dense  wood,  amid 
overhanging  rocks,  upon  the  declivities  of  mountains^  and 
on  the  surface  of  snow  lying  four  feet  deep.2  The  reports 
on  neither  side  refer  to  a  fact  too  common  to  require 
remark,  but  the  circumstances  to  my  mind  imply  that  both 
parties  were  in  the  battle  and  fought  upon  snow  shoes.3 

Another  strange  episode  is  said  to  have  imparted  addi 
tional  romance  to  the  campaign  of  1758.  Putnam,  em 
ployed  in  protecting  the  communications  of  the  English 
army  from  the  movements  of  the  French  partisans, 
occupied  a  commanding  position  with  a  body  of  rangers, 
which,  on  the  eventful  night  was  reduced  to  thirty-five, 
below  Whitehall,  at  a  point  where  the  lake  forms  a  sharp 
angle,  that  is  now  known  as  Fiddler's  elbow.  High 
ledges  of  rocks  on  each  side  compress  the  water  into  a 
narrow  passage.  Upon  the  cliff  on  the  east  side,  he 
erected  a  stone  breastwork,  which  was  disguised  by 
arranging  pine  boughs  in  such  a  manner  as  to  present  the 
appearance  of  a  natural  growth.  Here,  he  lay  four  long 
summer  days  with  the  patience  and  perseverance  he  had 
learnt  from  his  savage  associates.  On  the  evening  of  the 
fourth,  his  vigilant  scout  announced  the  approach  of  a 
flotilla.  Soon  it  was  discerned  gliding  stealthily  along, 


regard  the  whole  story  to  be  a  myth.  I  notice  no  reference  to  the  incident 
in  Rogers's  journal,  and  he  is  known  not  to  have  been  diffident  in  commemo 
rating  his  own  exploits. 

1  Doc.,  x,  703 ;  Rogers,  82 ;  Pouchot,  i,  199.        2  Rogers's  Journal. 

3  Locomotion  in  the  depth  of  snow  described  would  have  been  imprac 
ticable  without  some  artificial  aid.  The  two  officers  who  escaped,  and  after 
wandering  several  days  found  refuge  at  Carillon,  state  explicitly  that  they 
fled  from  the  battle  on  snow  shoes.  (Rogers,  92,  93). 


84  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

but  the  effulgence  of  a  full  moon  revealed  every  movement. 
The  leading  boats  had  passed  the  parapet,  when  the  gun 
of  a  ranger  grating  upon  the  rock  produced  a  slight  sound, 
but  sufficient  to  reach  the  watchful  ear  of  the  foe.  They 
hesitated,  and  for  a  moment  the  boats  clustered  together, 
and  were  about  retreating,  when  the  rangers  poured  upon 
them  a  deadly  fire.  Volley  succeeded  to  volley,  in  rapid 
succession.  The  French  returned  the  fire,  but  their  bul 
lets  flattened  innoxiously  upon  the  rocks.  They  attempted 
to  land  and  gain  the  rear  of  Putnam,  but  were  repulsed 
by  the  gallant  Durkee,  with  twelve  men.  The  day  began 
to  dawn,  and  his  ammunition  all  expended,  Putnam 
abandoned  his  fortress,  and  retreated,  bearing  with  him 
two  wounded  men,  his  only  loss.  This  position  is  still 
known  as  Put's  rock.  Afterwards,  when  a  prisoner  in 
Canada,  he  learnt  from  Marin,  that  he,  with  five  hundred 
men,  was  the  antagonist  in  that  romantic  encounter,  and 
that  the  French  lost  one-half  of  the  force  engaged.  Per 
haps  an  allowance  should  be  made  for  a  degree  of  exagge 
ration,  from  the  courtesy  of  the  brave  Frenchman  or  the 
credulity  of  the  hearer. 

The  capture  of  the  fortress  on  Lake  Cham  plain,  and 
that  achieved  a  descent  upon  Montreal,  were  the  promi 
nent  and  most  vital  objects  embraced  in  the  schemes  of 
Pitt.  In  consonance  with  this  design,  an  army  was  gra 
dually  assembled  in  the  early  summer  of  1758,  at  the 
head  of  Lake  George.  This  army,  the  most  magnificent 
by  the  number  and  character  of  his  troops,  and  the  extent 
and  perfection  of  its  appointments,  that  had  ever  appeared 
in  the  campaigns  of  the  western  continent,  was  intrusted 
to  the  command  of  James  Abercrombie.  Neither  the 
antecedents  of  this  commander,  nor  any  native  ability,  jus 
tified  his  selection  to  a  position  which  would  exact  the 
highest  efforts  of  skill  and  energy.  Abercombie  was  a 
creature  of  the  court ;  but  Pitt,  in  the  selection  of  Lord 
Howe,  sought  to  supply  those  qualities,  in  which  his 
superior  was  so  fatally  deficient.  Howe,  elevated  to  the 
rank  of  brigadier-general,  was  the  controlling  spirit  of 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  85 

the  enterprise.  Before  the  arrival  of  Abercrombie  at  the 
camp,  the  zeal  and  precaution  of  Howe  had  obtained,  by 
the  agency  of  Rogers,  a  plan  of  the  French  works  at 
Carillon,  with  surveys  of  the  vicinity,  and  recognizances  of 
the  immediate  districts. 

At  the  dawn  of  the  beautiful  morning  on  the  5th  of 
July,  the  whole  army,  amounting  to  about  sixteen  hundred 
men,  including  six  thousand  three  hundred  and  thirty- 
seven  regulars,  embarked  in  nine  hundred  bateaux,  and 
one  hundred  and  thirty-five  whale  boats.  The  artillery 
was  mounted  on  rafts.1  The  flotilla  descended  the  lake 
in  imposing  and  splendid  order.  The  rangers,  and  light 
infantry  were  in  front,  the  regulars  occupying  the  centre, 
and  the  provincials  on  either  wing.2  Modern  times  had 
witnessed  no  parallel  to  this  impressive  and  gorgeous 
spectacle.  We  are  even  now  impressed  with  a  degree  of 
awe,  as  we  contemplate  the  dark,  gloomy  frame-work 
of  mountain  scenery  that  encloses  Lake  George  in  its 
narrow  bed,  and  by  the  silence  and  solitude  that  rests 
upon  its  waters.  When  the  fleet  of  Abercombie  ruffled 
the  placid  surface  of  the  romantic  lake,  the  primeval 
stillness  and  seclusion  of  nature  were  undisturbed  along 
its  rugged  shores  and  all  its  territory,  by  the  habitations 
of  civilized  man.  The  brilliant  spectacle  moved  amid 
the  scene,  almost  like  the  illusions  of  fancy.  Amid  the 
clangor  of  martial  music,  the  glittering  of  burnished  arms, 
the  gleaming  of  bright  scarlet,  the  fluttering  of  parti  co 
lored  plaids,  mingled  with  the  woodman's  uniform,  and  the 
humbler  tints  of  the  homespun  garments  of  the  provin 
cials,  and  their  banners  floating  in  the  breeze,  the  flotilla 
glides  rapidly  forward,  exhilarated  by  the  inspirations  of 
heroic  daring,  and  the  confidence  of  victory.  We  may 
fancy  the  hearts  of  the  gallant  Highlanders  turning  back 
to  other  days,  as  the  strains  of  the  bagpipes  were  returned 
in  a  thousand  echoes  from  the  mountains,  recalled  the 
scenes  and  the  joys  of  their  Scottish  homes. 

1  Abercrombie  to  Pitt,  DOG,,  x,  725.        a  Rogers'*  Journal,  III. 


86  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Towards  evening  the  expedition  reached  Sabbath-day 
point,  and  landed  there  to  rest  and  refresh.  At  ten 
o'clock  in  the  night  it  again  cautiously  advanced,  Howe,  in 
a  whale  boat  leading  the  van.  Early  in  the  morning  of 
the  6th,  a  landing  was  effected  without  opposition,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  lake  in  a  little  cove  still  known  as  Howe's 
landing.  The  night  before,  Howe,  reposing  on  the  same 
bear  skin  with  Stark,  discussed  in  an  anxious  and  investi 
gating  spirit,  the  nature  of  the  defenses  at  Carillon,  and  the 
future  movements  of  the  army.1  Equal  in  age,  alike 
daring  and  intrepid,  the  one  a  descendant  of  royalty,  and 
the  other  an  humble  pioneer  of  New  Hampshire,  they 
were  united  by  a  kindred  spirit  and  warm,  mutual  esteem. 
De  Boulamarque  was  stationed  with  three  regiments  at 
the  foot  of  the  lake,  to  observe,  and  if  possible  resist  the 
landing  of  the  English  army.  On  its  approach,  in  over 
whelming  numbers,  he  burnt  his  camp  with  its  materials, 
and  effecting  a  retreat,  rejoined  Montcalm,  to  aid  in  con 
structing  the  entrenchment.  De  Trepesee,  who  had  been 
detached  with  a  body  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  men,  was 
constrained  to  pursue  a  circuitous  route  through  a  heavy 
forest,  was  bewildered  in  its  intricacies,  and  after  an  ex 
hausting  march  of  twelve  hours,  while  essaying  to  ford  at  a 
rapid,  intercepted  an  English  column  involved  in  a  similar 
confusion.2 

Boulamarque,  on  his  retreat,  had  very  judiciously  burnt 
both  the  bridges  that  crossed  the  outlet  of  Lake  George, 
and  thus  obliged  Abercombie  to  advance  through  a  path 
less  wood  on  the  west  side  of  the  stream,  who,  leaving  at 
the  burnt  camp  his  artillery,  baggage  and  supplies,  imme 
diately  marched  towards  the  French  works.  The  English 
were  arranged  in  four  columns,  the  regulars  in  the  centre, 
and  the  provincials  on  the  flanks ;  "  but  the  woods  being  very 
thick,"  and  the  ground  uneven  and  "  impassable  for  a  large 
body  of  men  in  any  regularity,3  and  the  guides  unskillful," 

1  Sparks' s  Life  of  Stark.    2  Doc.,  x,  726 ;  Montcalm,  758  ;  Pouchot,  i,  111. 
3  Abercrombie  to  Pitt,  Doc.,  x,  625. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  ^7 

the  columns  became  intermingled  and  broken.  Lord 
Howe  marched  at  the  head  of  a  centre  column,  which,  dis 
ordered  and  obstructed  by  the  tangled  underwood  and 
intricate  forest,  was  wandering  in  confusion  when  it  en 
countered  the  fugitive  detachment  of  Trepesee.  An  irre 
gular  skirmish  ensued.  The  French  troops,  inferior  in 
numbers,  surprised,  and  worn,  and  exhausted  by  their 
laborious  march,  fought  with  desperate  valor.  Lord  Howe 
fell  at  the  first  fire.1  The  regulars,  strangers  to  this  mode 
of  forest  warfare,  appalled  by  the  death  of  Howe,  and 
intimidated,  as  a  British  historian  alleges,  by  the  Indian 
war  whoop,  faltered  and  broke,  but  were  gallantly  sustained 
by  the  provincials.2  The  brave  Trepesee  was  mortally 
wounded,  and  almost  the  entire  detachment  either  slain  or 
captured,  with  an  insignificant  loss  to  the  English.  If  the 
British  army  narrowly  escaped  by  this  panic  a  renewal  of 
the  bloody  scenes  on  the  Monongahela,  it  is  equally  proba 
ble,  if  Howe  had  lived,  and  a  rapid  and  vigorous  advance 
been  made  after  the  annihilation  of  Trepesee's  party,  that 
the  imperfect  entrenchments  of  the  French  might  have 
been  entered  and  captured  in  the  disorder  arid  alarm  of 
the  moment.3  But  the  bugle  of  Abercrombie  sounded  the 
retreat,  and  the  opportunity  was  lost. 

The  death  of  Howe  paralyzed  the  army.  With  him  ex 
pired  its  spirit,  its  confidence,  and  hope.  All  afterwards 
was  prompted  by  imbecility,  indecision  and  folly.  Gene 
rous  and  kind,  gifted  and  accomplished,  instinct  with  genius 
and  heroism,  Howe  died  deeply  lamented.  The  next  day  a 
single  barge  retraced  the  track  of  the  flotilla  bearing  the 
body  of  the  young  hero,  who  but  yesterday  had  led  its 
brilliant  pageant.  Philip  Schuyler,  then  j ust  entering  upon 
his  distinguished  career,  escorted  the  remains  with  all  the 
tenderness  and  reverence  due  the  illustrious  dead.  The 

1  Doc.,  x,  738,  726. 

3  Graham,  n,  279.    Doc.,  x,  726,  725.    A  few  Indians  were  with  Trepesee. 
Doc.,  x,  735. 
1  Doc.,  x,  735  ;  Graham,  n,279. 


88  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

body  was  conveyed  to  Albany  and  buried  in  St.  Peter's 
Episcopal  Church,  which  stood  in  the  middle  of  State 
street.  His  obsequies  were  performed  with  every  pomp  of 
military  display  and  all  the  solemnities  of  religious  rituals. 
An  heraldic  insignia  marked  the  location  of  the  grave. 
Forty-four  years  had  elapsed,  and  in  the  progress  of  im 
provement,  that  edifice  was  demolished  and  the  grave  of 
Howe  exposed.  A  double  coffin  was  revealed.  The  outer 
one,  which  was  made  of  white  pine,  was  nearly  decayed  ; 
but  the  other,  formed  of  heavy  mahogany,  was  almost  entire. 
In  a  few  spots  it  was  wasted,  and  the  pressure  of  the  earth  had 
forced  some  soil  into  the  interior.  When  the  lid  was  un 
covered,  the  remains  appeared  clothed  in  a  rich  silk  damask 
cerement,  in  which  they  were  enshrouded  on  his  interment. 
The  teeth  were  bright  and  perfect,  the  hair  stiffened  by  the 
dressing  of  the  period,  the  queue  entire,  the  ribbon  and 
double  brace  apparently  new  and  jet  black.  All,  on  expo 
sure,  shrunk  into  dust,  and  the  relics  of  the  high  bred  and 
gallant  peer  were  conveyed  by  vulgar  hands  to  the  common 
charnel  house  and  mingled  with  the  promiscuous  dead.1 
The  character  and  services  of  Howe  received  the  most 
generous  tribute  of  respect  and  eulogium  from  the  French. 
Massachusetts,  in  gratitude  and  reverence,  erected  a  monu 
ment  to  his  memory  in  Westminster  Abbey.2 

1  Montcalm's  dispatch. —  Pouchot. 

3  I  am  indebted,  in  part,  to  a  published  letter  of  Mrs.  Cochrane  for  the  fact 
of  the  interment  of  Howe  in  St.  Peter's,  and  to  the  manuscript  of  Elkanah 
Watson  for  the  circumstances  of  the  exhumation.  The  tradition  that  Howe, 
as  an  example  to  his  troops,  caused  his  hair  to  be  cut  short,  has  cast  some 
doubt  on  the  accuracy  of  the  statement  in  the  text.  Pouchot  alludes  to  the 
same  fact,  and  says  the  hair  was  left  "  two  fingers  breadth  long."  (Pouchot, 
1, 110).  In  my  judgment,  if  the  story  is  correct,  it  does  not  conflict  with  the 
account  in  the  manuscript.  It  was  the  fashion  of  the  age  to  wear  the  hair 
in  long  locks  or  ringlets.  This  habit  had  probably  been  introduced  into 
the  army,  and  Howe  desired  to  correct  it.  No  motive  of  cleanliness,  which 
was  doubtless  the  prominent  object  with  Howe,  made  the  excision  of  the 
queue  necessary.  Short  hair,  rather  than  long,  would  have  exacted  careful 
dressing  for  a  funeral  preparation.  The  manuscript  states  that  the  identity 
of  the  grave  was  established  not  only  by  the  coat  of  arms  which  surmounted 
it,  but  also  by  the  recollection  of  Henry  Cuyler,  a  half  pay  British  officer, 
who  was  at  the  time  a  highly  respected  resident  of  Greenbush. 


TICONDEROGA  AND  ITS  DEPENDENCIES,  AUGUST,  1776. 
From  a  plan  drawn  by  Col.  John  Trumbull. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  89 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th,  Abercrombie  added  to  the 
depression  of  the  troops  by  withdrawing  the  whole  army 
to  the  protection  x>f  the  works  erected  at  the  landing. 
About  noon  of  that  day  Bradstreet  took  possession  of  the 
sawmills,  at  the  falls,  which  were  two  miles  distant  from 
the  fort.  He  rebuilt  the  bridges,  and  in  the  evening  the 
army  again  advanced  and  occupied  this  position.1  These 
vacillations  and  delays  of  Abercrombie  afforded  to  his  alert 
and  energetic  adversary  the  precious  hours  he  needed  for 
the  perfection  of  his  defenses. 

The  promontory  held  by  Montcalm  was  a  narrow  and 
elevated  peninsula,  washed  on  three  sides  by  deep  waters, 
with  its  base  on  the  western  and  only  accessible  side.  On 
the  north  of  this  base  the  access  was  obstructed  by 
a  wet  meadow,  and  on  the  southern  extremity  it  was 
rendered  impracticable  to  the  advance  of  an  army  by 
a  steep  slope,  extending  from  the  hill  to  the  outlet.  The 
summit  between  these  points  was  rounded  and  sinuous 
with  ledges  and  elevations  at  intervals.2  Here  and  about 
half  a  mile  in  advance  of  the  fort,  Montcalm  traced  the  line 
of  his  projected  entrenchment.  It  followed  the  sinuosities 
of  the  land,  the  sections  of  the  works  reciprocally  flanking 
each  other.3  The  entrenchment,  which  was  about  an  eighth 
of  a  league  in  length,  was  constructed  by  Dupont  Le  Roy 
an  accomplished  engineer.  "  It  was  formed  by  falling 
trunks  of  trees  one  upon  the  other  and  others  felled  in 
front,  their  branches  cut  and  sharpened  produced  the  effect 
of  a  ckevaux  de  frize*  All  of  the  7th  the  French  army 
toiled  with  unremitting  vigor  upon  the  lines,  with  flags 
flying  along  the  works,  and  exhilarated  by  the  inspiration 
of  music,  the  officers  participating  in  the  labor.  The 
parapet  arose  to  the  height  of  eight  to  ten  feet  along  its 
whole  course.  The  abatis  was  about  one  hundred  yards 
in  width. 


1  Abercrombie  to  Pitt,  Doc.,  x,  726.        2  Pouchot,  i,  114 ;  Doc.,  x,  739,  742. 
3  Idem.        *  Montcalm's  report,  Doc.,  x,  739. 


90  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

De  Levis,  who  had  organized  an  expedition  against  the 
Mohawk  valley,  was  recalled  by  Yaudreuil  to  meet  the  perils 
which  were  menacing  Ticonderoga.  Hurrying  onward 
with  all  celerity  that  oars  and  sail  could  give,  his  four 
hundred  veterans  reached  the  scene  of  danger  on  the  night 
of  the  7th,  diffusing  joy  and  hope  by  the  announcement  of 
the  approach  of  De  Levis,  who  arrived  at  five  o'clock  on 
the  morning  of  thememorable  eighth,  accompanied  by  the 
brilliant  De  Senezergues,  who,  second  in  command  on  the 
plains  of  Abraham,  died  there  with  Montcalm.1  Nearly  at 
the  same  hour  of  De  Levis's  arrival,  Johnson  with  three  or 
four  hundred  Mohawks  joined  the  English  camp.  That 
the  design  of  evacuating  Ticonderoga,  which  was  imputed 
to  Montcalm  as  a  grave  fault  by  Yaudreuil,  was  entertained 
by  him,  may  be  assumed  from  other  and  less  prejudiced 
evidences.2 

He  compared  his  insignificant  force  with  the  overwhelm 
ing  array  of  Abercrombie,  and  saw  how  easily  Carillon 
might  be  made  untenable.  At  an  earlier  day  Dupont  Le 
Roy,  the  chief  engineer,  had  written  to  the  government  in 
emphatic  condemnation  of  the  works,  and  had  declared  that 
to  capture  the  fort  "  I  would  only  require  six  mortars  and 
two  cannon."3  It  is  asserted  that  Montcalm  did  not  decide 
to  make  an  earnest  defense  until  the  morning  of  the  attack.4 

That  purpose  of  retreating  persisted  in,  would  have 
eclipsed  his  own  great  glory.  Its  consequences  would  not 
only  have  embraced  the  loss  of  Ticonderoga  and  the  capture 
of  St.  Frederick,  but  the  surrender  or  disorganization  of  the 
French  army.  The  means  he  possessed  of  escape  by  water 
were  totally  inadequate  to  the  transportation  of  his  troops 
and  munitions.  Pathless  forests,  lofty  and  dislocated 


J  Doc.,  x,  794 ;  Pouchot,  i,  108. 

2  Vaudreuil  to  De  Massiac,  Doc.,  x,  781 ;  Dain  to  Belle  Isle,  Idem,  814  ; 
Pouchot,  i,  115. 

3  Doc.  x,  720,  Memoir  in  cipher.     This  language  has  been  imputed  by 
Mr  Bancroft  and  those  who  have  followed  him,  to  Montcalm,  but   I  find 
nothing  of  the  kind  in  his  correspondence  with  the  government. 

tPouc?wt,i>  110. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  91 

mountain  ranges,  and  deep  rivers  interposed  an  insuperable 
barrier  to  the  retreat  of  an  organized  army  by  land. 

As  far  as  the  limited  time  permitted,  all  was  prepared 
along  the  French  lines  for  the  imminent  crisis.  Mont- 
calm  held  at  Ticonderoga  on  that  day  three  thousand  and 
six  hundred  men,  and  of  these,  four  hundred  and  fifty 
were  Canadians  and  troops  of  the  marine.1  A  few  Indians 
only  were  present.  The  number  of  fighting  men  actu 
ally  behind  the  trenches  amounted  to  two  thousand  nine 
hundred  and  ninety-two.2  At  daybreak,  the  troops  were 
summoned  to  the  lines  by  the  generate.  To  each  was 
assigned  his  post,  and  then  the  whole  army  returned  to 
labor  upon  the  entrenchment  and  abatis.3  The  meadow 
on  the  extreme  right,  with  a  slight  abatis  in  front,  was 
occupied  by  the  Canadians  and  irregular  troops.  The 
battery  of  four  guns,  which  was  designed  to  flank  this 
point,  was  not  completed  until  the  morning  after  the 
assault.  The  guns  of  the  fort  commanded  this  opening, 
as  well  as  the  slope  on  the  extreme  left.  De  Levis,  on 
the  right,  defended  the  line  with  three  regiments ;  Mont- 
calm  was  in  the  centre  with  two  battalions  and  pickets, 
and  De  Boulamarque  occupied  with  an  equal  force  the  left. 
The  precipitous  declivity  that  extended  to  the  outlet  was 
guarded  by  two  companies.  Behind  each  battalion  was 
stationed  a  company  of  grenadiers  in  reserve.  The  men, 
still  laboring  on  the  works,  were  ordered  to  repair  to  their 
respective  stations,  on  the  discharge  of  an  alarm  gun,  and 
at  "  the  moment  and  signal  prescribed,  all  the  troops  were 
under  amis  and  at  their  posts,"  just  as  the  van  of  the 
British  columns  appeared.4 

Abercrombie  had  been  impressed  by  the  advices  he  re 
ceived,  with  the  conviction  that  large  reenforcements  were 
approaching  Montcalm.  Influenced  by  the  report  of  Clarke, 
his  engineer,  who  had  reconnoitered  the  French  lines  from 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  he  decided  to  order  an  im- 

1  These  were  irregular  troops.        2  Doc.,  x,  739  ;  Pouchot,  i,  114. 
8  Idem.        *  Doc.,  x,  740,  Montcalm's  report. 


92  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

mediate  attack,  without  waiting  for  his  powerful  artillery. 
The  English  engineer,  familiar  only  with  the  formal  and 
scientific  works  of  Europe,  was  doubtless  deceived  by  the 
peculiar  construction  of  the  intrenchment,  but  the  practiced 
eye  of  Stark,  who  knew  the  strength  of  the  rude  parapet 
of  Johnson  in  1755,  detected  formidable  lines  where  Clarke 
discovered  only  a  frail  defense.1  With  a  fatuity  common 
to  the  European  leaders  in  America,  Stark's  opinion  was 
rejected. 

The  advance  exhibited  a  grand  and  imposing  military 
spectacle.  The  army  was  formed  in  three  lines.  The 
first  was  composed  of  the  rangers,  bateau  men,  and  light 
infantry ;  next  the  provincials  marched  with  wide  spaces 
between  the  regiments ;  and  behind  these  openings,  the 
regulars  were  formed  in  columns.  The  New  Jersey  and 
Connecticut  levies  formed  the  rear  guard.  Johnson,  with 
his  Indians,  occupied  Mount  Defiance,  then  known  as 
Sugar-loaf  hill,  an  elevation  across  the  river,  near  and 
south  of  the  fort,  but,  with  the  exception  of  an  occasional 
shot,  were  mere  spectators  of  the  conflict.  The  regulars 
advancing  through  the  openings  with  a  firm,  quick,  and 
steady  tread,  their  bayonets  fixed,  rushed  upon  the  French 
lines,  along  an  open  space  in  front  of  the  felled  trees. 
But  when  they  reached  the  abatis  and  became  entangled 
in  it,  all  order  and  regularity  were  broken.  The  heroic 
veterans,  struggling  individually  to  surmount  these  im 
pediments,  fought  with  a  valor  never  surpassed,  but 
against  all  hope.  Two  columns  charged  the  right,  another 
assailed  the  centre,  and  a  fourth  was  hurled  upon  the 
left.  They  could  not  advance  beyond  the  terrible  abatis, 
and  would  not  retreat.  Even  the  instincts  of  nature  were 
dominated  by  the  force  of  discipline.  The  British  soldier 
knew  no  law  but  obedience.  No  command  came  to  them 
to  retreat,  while  the  destruction,  by  the  deadly  fire  of  the 
French  musketry,  and  the  howitzers  planted  at  inter 
vals  along  the  line,  was  terrific.  Some  of  the  Highlanders 

lPouchot,i,  116. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  93 

fell  almost  on  the  entrenchment.  The  French,  protected 
by  their  works,  were  little  exposed.  "  They  were  invisi 
ble,"  only  "  a  small  bit  of  their  caps  was  to  be  seen," 
while  they  swept  down  the  English  by  an  unbroken  storm 
of  fire.1  The  fire  of  the  provincials  and  marksmen,  inter 
spersed  between  the  columns  of  regulars,  was  more  effec 
tive.2  The  moment  of  greatest  peril  to  the  French  occurred 
late  in  the  afternoon,  when  two  of  the  British  columns, 
by  a  concerted  movement,  concentrated  an  attack  upon 
an  angle  on  the  left  of  the  right  defense  of  the  French 
line,  and  nearly  wrested  the  victory  from  inexorable  for 
tune.  But  De  Levis,  who  was  temporarily  relieved  by 
the  pressure  upon  his  right,  promptly  supported  the  en 
dangered  point,  and  Montcalm,  whose  eagle  eye  watched 
every  change  of  the  battle,  rushed  to  the  rescue  with  a 
body  of  the  reserve,  and  this  last  cast  for  victory  was  lost.3 

Early  in  the  engagement,  Abercrombie  directed  two  rafts, 
mounted  with  two  guns  each,  to  descend  the  outlet  for  the 
purpose  of  enfilading  the  French  lines,  but  they  were  with 
ease  repulsed  by  the  guns  of  the  fort,  and  the  fire  of  the 
two  companies  stationed  to  clefend  the  extreme  left.  Fre 
quent,  bold  and  successful  sorties  were  made  during  the 
assault  by  pickets  and  grenadiers,  aided  by  the  Canadians 
and  marine  troops  from  the  opening  on  the  right,  in  which 
the  flank  of  the  attacking  column  was  assailed  and  prison 
ers  captured. 

While  these  sanguinary  scenes  were  in  progress,  Aber 
crombie  was  reposing  in  inglorious  security  at  the  saw 
mills;  but  Montcalm,  casting  off  his  coat  in  that  sunny 
afternoon,4  was  everywhere  present  meeting  every  peril ; 
animating  his  troops  by  voice  and  example,  ministering  to 
all  their  wants,  and  imparting  the  fervor  of  his  own  heroic 
spirit.  On  the  first  assault,  the  military  eye  detected  the 

lDoc.,  x,  736. 

2  Montcalm  speaks  of  their  murderous  fire,  Doc.,  x,   740.    "  Their  fire 
greatly  incommoded  those  in  the  entrenchments." — Pouchot,  1, 116. 
3Doc.,  x,  740,  743.        4  Bancroft. 


94  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

utter  hopelessness  of  the  enterprise.  The  attack  commenced 
shortly  after  meridian,  and  five  long  hours  had  rolled 
on  amid  this  carnage  and  desperation,  and  still  the  British 
troops  maintained  the  conflict  with  determined  but  unavail 
ing  constancy.  No  order  came  to  stop  the  ruthless  slaughter. 
The  hour  of  six  had  arrived,  and  the  devoted  columns 
continued  to  assail  first  the  right  and  then  the  left  of  the 
impregnable  entrenchment,  but  at  seven  the  retreat  was 
accomplished.1  Some  loss  was  inflicted  upon  the  British 
troops,  caused  by  their  firing  on  each  other  in  the  common 
disorder  and  excitement.  At  length  regiment  after  regi 
ment,  without  any  general  orders,  or  concert,  re  tired  to  the 
camp ;  the  provincials  covering  the  retreat.2 

Then  ensued  that  strange  and  inscrutable  phenomenon, 
which  is  sometimes  exhibited  among  troops  the  bravest 
and  most  reliable,  when  an  electric  influence  pervades  the 
masses,  communicating  an  universal  and  irresistible  panic. 
These  veterans,  whose  steadiness  and  valor  received  the 
generous  homage  of  their  victorious  foes,  and  whose  coun 
try,  even  amid  her  grief  and  humiliation,  exulted  in  their 
heroism  and  sacrifices,  fled  in  wild  terror  and  confusion, 
rushing  to  the  boats  in  a  precipitancy  that  threatened  a 
general  ruin.  The  firmness  and  efforts  of  Bradstreet  alone 
averted  fresh  and  dishonorable  catastrophies,  which  their 
antecedents  could  not  redeem.3 

The  exhaustion  and  paucity  of  the  French  army,  the 
darkness  of  the  night,  the  impossibility  of  traversing  the 
woods  without  Indian  guides,  and  the  entrenchments 
which  the  English  had  erected  along  their  route,  restrained 
pursuit.4  When  De  Levis,  at  break  of  day  on  the  10th, 
followed  the  track  of  Abercrombie,  he  found  only  the  ves 
tiges  of  a  stricken  and  routed  army  ;  the  wounded  and  sup 
plies  abandoned,  clothing  scattered  along  the  woods,  with 


1  Montcalm,  Doc.,  x,  740.         *  Pennsylvania  Archives. 
8  It  was  fortunate  we  were  not  pursued  in  our  retreat,  we  should  certainly 
have  lost  2,000  more  men.—  Idem. 
4  Montcalm's  report. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  95 

the  charred  remains  of  boats  and  pontoons.1  Before  that 
hour  arrived,  Abercrombie  had  fled  "  in  the  extremest 
terror  and  consternation  "  and  secured  a  dishonored  safety 
by  interposing  the  length  of  Lake  George  between  his  army 
and  its  dreaded  conqueror.  No  pen  inscribed  for  the  re 
search  of  posterity  any  account  of  the  ignominious  flight, 
so  singularly  contrasting  with  the  splendor  of  the  advance. 
The  night  that  closed  on  a  day,  among  the  most  glorious 
that  ever  beamed  upon  the  arms  of  France,  was  spent  by 
Montcalm  in  the  deepest  solicitude  for  the  morrow.  His 
troops  were  under  arms  or  laboriously  perfecting  their  in 
complete  works,  preparing  for  the  anticipated  renewal  of  the 
assault.  Although  the  English  still  exceeded  the  French 
forces  fourfold,  with  their  artillery  ready  for  action,  Aber 
crombie  abandoned  the  campaign.2  Bradstreet  soon  after, 
with  a  detachment  of  the  same  troops,  measureably  restored 
their  confidence,  and  vindicated  the  fame  of  England  by 
the  siege  and  conquest  of  Frontenac.  Abercrombie  admit 
ted  the  loss  of  about  two  thousand  men,  but  the  French 
assumed  it  to  be  far  heavier,  and  stated  their  own  to  be  less 
than  five  hundred,  but  Boulamarque  severely  and  Bougain 
ville  slightly  were  included  among  the  wounded.3 

The  arrival  of  the  younger  Yaudreuil  on  the  12th  with 
three  thousand  Canadians,  followed  by  six  hundred  Indians 
on  the  13th,  furnished  some  apparent  basis  for  the  appre 
hension  of  Abercrombie  that  reenforcernents  to  Montcalm 
were  approaching,  by  which  he  professed  to  justify  his 


1  We  found  in  the  mud  on  the  road  to  the  falls  five  hundred  pairs  of  shoes 
with  buckles. —  Pouctiot,  I,  121.     The  soldiers  returned  loaded  with  plunder 
and  an  immense  quantity  of  shoes  with  buckles. —  Doc.,  x,  725,  741. 

2  The  French  asserted  that  he  entrenched  on  the  ruins  of  William  Henry, 
and  removed  the  guns  to  Albany  for  security,  retaining  all  his  artillery. — 
Doc.,  x.  819 ;  Bancroft. 

3  A  singular  incident  occurred  during  the  progress  of  this  remarkable 
battle.     A  captain  of  the  Royal  Roussillon  in  bravado,  tied  a  red  handker 
chief  to  a  gun,  and  waved  it  in  a  sort  of  defiance  towards  the  English.     The 
English  column  opposite,  supposed  it  indicated  a  purpose  on  the  part  of 
the  French  to  surrender.     Under  this  impression,  holding  their  guns  hori 
zontally  above  their  heads,  they  ran  toward  the  entrenchment,  crying  quar- 


96  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

precipitate  attack  on  the  French  works.1  Abercromhie 
lingered  in  imbecile  indecision  at  Fort  George,  while 
Montcalm  was  felt  at  every  point,  where  his  ardor  and 
activity  could  deliver  a  blow.  Eight  days  after  the  repulse 
at  Ticonderoga,  a  band  of  five  hundred  partisans,  lurking 
in  the  woods  near  the  half  way  brook  between  Lake  George 
and  Fort  Edward,  surprised  an  English  detachment  and 
secured  forty  scalps.2  A  few  days  after,  another  party  at 
tacked  a  wagon  train  on  the  same  ground,  loaded  with 
provisions  and  merchandise.  Forty  carts,  two  hundred 
oxen,  the  contents  of  the  convoy,  one  hundred  and  sixteen 
scalps  and  eighty-four  prisoners  were  the  fruits  of  the  bold 
enterprise.3  Rogers  and  Putnam  with  a  detachment  of 
seven  hundred  troops  pursued  without  success  the  active 
partisans.  Engaged  in  this  pursuit,  with  the  purpose  of 
suppressing  similar  movements,  they  descended  Lake 
George,  traversed  the  rude  mountainous  district  to  Wood- 
neck,  and  were  returning  to  Fort  Edward.  Moutcalm  was 
apprised  of  their  march,  and  dispatched  Marin  with  about 
the  same  number  of  partisans,  to  follow  and  intercept  the 
English.  Both  parties  were  near  Fort  Ann,  wandering  in 
a  dense  forest  each  ignorant  of  the  vicinity  of  the  enemy 
they  were  vigilantly  pursuing.  Rogers,  forgetting  his 


ter.  The  French,  ignorant  of  the  circumstances,  on  their  part,  believing 
the  English  desired  to  surrender,  mounted  the  works  to  receive  them  and 
ceased  firing.  The  English,  under  this  mutual  mistake,  had  nearly  entered 
the  lines,  when  Pouchot,  who  witnessed  the  scene,  and  perceiving  the  con 
sequence  which  would  result  from  their  doing  this,  promptly  gave  the 
word  to  his  troops  to  fire.  They  did  so,  with  most  deadly  effect  upon  the 
exposed  ranks  of  the  English.  This  is  Pouchot's  own  account  of  a  some 
what  ambiguous  transaction.  He  adds,  "  they  have  since  charged  us  with 
using  an  unpardonable  deceit. —  Pouchot,  I,  114. 

1  This  is  the  statement  of  Pouchot  (vol.  I,  122).     Other  accounts  reduce  the 
number  of  the  Canadians  to  three  hundred — Doc.,  x,  745.     This  fact  with 
the  assertion  of  Rogers  that  the  assault  was  commenced  "  before  the  gene 
ral  intended  by  an  accidental  fire  from  a  New  York  regiment  on  the  left 
wing,"  (Journal,  115),  is  the  only  extenuation  of  Abercrombie  that  can  ever 
be  adduced. 

2  Pouchot,  i,  123  ;  Rogers,  117. 

3  Rogers,  117  ;  Doc.,  x,  818 ;  Pouchot,  1. 123. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  97 

usual  prudence,  indulged  in  firing  at  a  mark  with  a  British 
officer.  Marin  heard  "the  report  of  three  shots"  while 
hesitating  as  to  his  course,  but  the  shots  revealed  the  posi 
tion  of  the  rangers,  and,  selecting  an  appropriate  spot,  he 
formed  an  effective  ambush.1  The  English,  unsuspicious  of 
danger,  were  threading  the  woods  in  Indian  file;  Rogers  in 
advance,  D'Ell  in  the  centre,  and  Putnam  in  the  rear.  They 
marched  directly  into  the  trap  that  had  been  so  skillfully 
prepared.  Suddenly,  the  forest  resounded  with  the  fearful 
war  whoop,  and  a  terrific  fire  was  hailed  upon  them  from 
every  side.  The  English,  familiar  with  such  scenes, 
promptly  rallied,  and  a  sanguinary  conflict  followed.  Then 
occurred  those  thrilling  incidents,  whose  story  has  agitated 
for  more  than  a  century,  thousands  of  young  hearts. 

Putnam  and  a  few  others,  in  the  surprise  and  confusion, 
were  cut  off  from  the  main  body.  The  men  were  slain, 
and  Putnam  captured  and  securely  bound  to  a  tree.  As 
the  changes  of  the  battle^  surged  around  him,  he  was  placed 
at  times  between  the  fire  of  the  contending  parties  and  his 
garments  torn  by  the  shots,  alike  of  friend  and  foe.  While 
in  this  helpless  condition,  a  young  Indian  approached  and 
amused  himself  with  the  strange  pastime  of  hurling  his 
tomahawk  at  the  prisoner,  practicing  how  near  he  could 
approach,  without  striking  the  mark.  A  still  more  savage 
Canadian  presented  his  gun  at  Putnam's  breast,  but  it 
missed  fire.  He  then  indulged  his  fierce  passions  by  in 
flicting  upon  the  prisoner  several  severe  wounds  with  the 
butt  of  the  weapon.  When  the  French  were  repulsed  and 
commenced  their  retreat,  his  Indian  captor  released  Putnam 
and  extended  to  him  that  mysterious  tenderness  and  care 
with  which  the  Indians  treat  their  victims  destined  to  the 
torture.  The  savages  encamped  at  night,  and  then  the 
strange  motive  that  actuated  this  kindness  was  revealed. 
Putuum,  stripped  of  his  clothing,  was  again  tied  to  a  sap 
ling,;  dried  faggots  were  piled  about  him ;  the  torch 
applied,  and  while  the  smoke  and  crackling  flames  began 

1  Doc.,  x,  511. 


98  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

to  ascend,  the  thoughts  of  the  brave  ranger  dwelt  upon  his 
happy  home  and  prattling  children.  When  the  agony  of 
death  in  this  frightful  form  was  almost  passed,  the 
generous  Marin,  who  had  learnt  of  his  peril,  rushed  to  the 
spot,  and  bursting  through  the  circle  of  shouting  savages, 
scattered  the  firebrands  and  rescued  the  victim.  In  the 
ensuing  autumn  Putnam  was  exchanged,  and  returned  to 
new  fields  of  glory,  but  to  none  of  such  appalling  horror.1 


CHAPTER  VII. 

THE  CONQUEST,  1759. 

The  campaign  of  1759  opened  under  gloomy  and  porten 
tous  auguries  for  the  future  of  New  France.  The  dearth 
of  provision  had  become  intensified  into  the  startling 
horrors  of  an  absolute  famine.  The  province  was  nearly 
exhausted  of  all  the  domestic  animals.  Life  in  a  great 
degree  was  sustained,  both  in  the  army  and  among  the 
citizens,  only  by  the  consumption  of  horseflesh.  In  1758, 
these  animals  had  been  purchased  by  the  government  in 
large  numbers,  and  their  flesh  sold  to  the  famishing  poor 
at  a  trifling  cost,  and  distributed  in  rations  to  the  troops.2 
The  habitans  relinquished,  either  from  coercion  or  cupid 
ity,  their  ordinary  food  to  the  use  of  the  army,  and  for  "  two 
months  before  the  harvest  "  of  1759  depended  for  sustenance 
upon  the  spontaneous  products  of  the  earth  and  forests. 
At  rare  intervals,  an  adventurous  ship,  eluding  the  British 
squadrons,  might  increase  the  scanty  supplies  of  the  pro 
vince  by  a  small  pittance,  but  all  regular  and  reliable  suc 
cor  by  this  channel  was  interrupted.  Every  department 
in  the  province  revealed  evidences,  that  could  not  be  mis 
taken,  of  destitution  and  decay. 

1  On  the  breaking  out  of  the  war  of  independence  Rogers  adhered  to  the 
government,  was  subjected  to  confiscation  and  outlawry,  went  to  England 
and  there  published  his  journal. 

3  Doc.,  x,  704, 837  ;  Pouchot,  i,  135. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  99 

Almost  every  man,  that  the  debilitated  population  of 
Canada  could  yield,  was  wrested  from  the  fields  to  replenish 
the  military  ranks.  "  We  want  provisions ;  we  want 
powder;  and  France  should  send  ten  thousand  men  to  pre 
serve  the  colony."  Such  was  the  portentous  appeal  to  the 
home  government.1  But  that  government  was  unable  to 
transport  a  single  regiment  with  a  rational  hope  that  it 
would  escape  the  British  ships  that  thronged  the  ocean  and 
the  gulf.  For  three  years  of  fierce  trials,  but  resplendent  in 
personal  and  national  glory,  Montcalm,  by  his  own  genius 
and  energy,  had  maintained  the  unequal  and  desperate  con 
test.  But  Doreil  exclaims,  in  a  letter  to  Belle  Isle,  "  Mira 
cles  cannot  always  be  expected,  Canada  is  lost  if  peace  is 
not  made  this  winter."2  In  the  spring  of  1759,  Montcalm, 
in  anguish  of  spirit,  writes  to  the  same  minister :  "  If  the 
war  continues,  Canada  will  belong  to  England,  perhaps  this 
campaign  or  the  next."3 

The  general  venality  to  which  we  have  referred  continu 
ally  increased,  and  was  a  deep  cancer  that  had  eaten  into 
the  vitals  of  colonial  strength,  and  was  an  active  cause  of  its 
hopeless  and  irremedial  decay.  Jealous  asperities,  and 
deepening  alienations,  prevailed  between  the  native  French 
and  the  Canadians,  that  marred  the  harmony  and  concert 
all  essential  to  their  successful  cooperation.  The  French 
disparaged  the  military  character  of  the  provincials,  bur 
lesqued  their  pretensions,  and  scoffed  at  the  pride  of  the 
Canadian  noblesse.4  The  Canadians  were  revolted  by  the 
hauteur  and  insolence  of  the  French  officials,  and  indig 
nantly  repelled  their  arrogant  assumptions  of  superiority.5 


1  Doc.,  x,  926.        2  Doreil  to  Belle  Isle  Doc. ,  x,  829. 

3  Montcalm  to  Belle  Isle,  Doc.,  x,  960.     In  the  same  letter  lie  utters  this 
emphatic  language  :  "  If  there  be  peace  the  colony  is  lost  unless  the  entire 
government  is  changed  ;  "  and,  with  stinging  inunendo,  quotes  Mirabeau, 
"  that  those  should  be  disgraced  who  return  from  colonies  with  wealth,  and 
those  rewarded  who  return  with  the  staff  and  scrip  with  which  they  went 
forth." 

4  Doc.,  x,  419, 460, 1043  ;  Pouehot,  i,  37.       6  Doc.,  x,  78, 419  ;  Pouchot,  I,  95. 


100  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Vaudreuil  was  of  noble  descent,  but  a  Canadian  by  birth, 
and  however  deficient  he  may  have  been  in  the  attainments 
of  military  science,  his  whole  career  develops  the  eminent 
qualities  of  his  mind,  in  a  native  vigor  and  resources. 
He  was  unhappily  surrounded  by  relatives  and  retainers, 
and  his  enemies  ascribed  to  him  a  nepotism  and  colonial 
sympathy,  to  which  were  subordinated  the  higher  claims 
of  individuals  and  paramount  public  interests.1  These 
suspicions  and  animosities,  if  they  did  not  originate  it, 
were  fostered  by  the  feuds  that  disturbed  the  intercourse 
between  Yaudreuil  and  Montcalm.  The  latter  pretended 
no  disguise  of  the  contemptuous  view  in  which  he  held 
the  military  capacity  of  Vaudreuil,  and  with  extreme 
bitterness  denounced  his  incompetent  interference,  his 
injustice  and  want  of  magnanimity.  We  cannot  fail  to 
detect  in  the  utterances  and  measures  of  Yaudreuil,  jea 
lousy  of  the  overshadowing  martial  fame  of  Montcalm, 
and  often  an  ungenerous  purpose  of  escaping  responsibili 
ties  and  attempting  to  grasp  the  glory  that  belonged  to 
the  deeds  of  others. 

The  accusations  which  Vaudreuil  industriously  carried 
to  the  throne,  imputed  to  Montcalm,  insubordination, 
a  haughty  neglect  of  instructions,  denunciations  of  officials, 
an  indiscriminate  jealousy,  a  want  of  adaptation  by  tem 
peraments  and  habits  to  the  command  in  Canada,  and 
an  arbitrary  and  stern  deportment  that  offended  the  pride 
and  repelled  the  services  of  the  Indians  and  provin 
cials.2  Whether  imaginary  or  just,  the  causes  of  these  dis 
sensions,  their  existence  exerted  a  baneful  influence  upon 
the  measures  of  the  war.  Perhaps  the  spirit  that  tends  to 
the  disparagement  of  all  irregular  troops,  common  to  the 
professional  soldiers,  many  have  tinged  the  estimate  by 
Montcalm  of  the  provincial  levies.  The  Canadians  possi 
bly  were  deficient  in  the  formula  of  the  parade,  or  the 
efficiency  of  the  drill,  but  in  their  native  qualities,  no 
braver  race  ever  stood  upon  the  battle-field.  These  ani- 

1  Doc.,  x,  859.        3  Idem,  791,  782,  780,  444,  789. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  101 

mosities  formed  a  deep  line  of  demarkation,  which  may 
be  traced  in  the  colonial  affairs  between  the  friends  and 
advocates  of  Montcalm  and  the  partisans  of  Vaudreuil. 
The  savage  tribes,  although  their  professed  fealty  was 
undisturbed,  no  longer  gathered  about  the  French  camps 
in  numbers  that  oppressed  the  commissariat.  As  an  ele 
ment  of  strength  to  the  armies  of  France,  they  were  now 
unreliable.  Perhaps,  with  the  native  sagacity  that  some 
times  marked  the  policy  of  the  Indians,  they  detected  the 
ascending  fortunes  of  England.  Yaudreuil  ascribed  this 
defection  to  the  "  petulance  and  impatience  "  of  Montcalm. 
The  presence  of  a  large  body  of  warriors  at  Ticonderoga 
had  been  assured  to  Montcalm,  and  he  felt  the  profound 
conviction,  that  with  their  aid  as  guides  through  the  forest 
on  the  night  of  the  assault  and  the  effect  of  their  appear 
ance  and  fearful  whooping  in  inflaming  the  panic  of  the 
English,  a  defeat  so  overwhelming  must  have  been  inflicted 
on  Abercrombie,  that  he  would  have  fled  with  the  mere 
fragments  of  an  army,  leaving  to  the  French  a  more  crown 
ing  and  decisive  victory.  Exasperated  at  these  conse 
quences  of  their  delays,  when  at  length  they  did  join  him, 
Montcalm  rebuked  them  with  a  stern  and  injudicious, 
however  just,  severity.  The  chiefs  carried  their  complaints 
to  Vaudreuil,  and  he  with  an  active  assiduity  communicated 
them  to  Versailles.1  The  proud  and  independent  freemen 
of  the  woods  were  doubtless  revolted  by  this  violence  and 
a  large  part  returned  to  their  lodges. 

While  these  clouds  were  gathering  about  the  falling 
empire  of  New  France,  Britain  was  collecting  all  her 
energies  for  the  impending  conflict,  with  a  renewed  vigor 
and  enthusiasm,  inspired  by  the  zeal  and  spirit  of  Pitt. 
The  fortress  of  Louisburg  had  scarcely  fallen,  when  Am- 
herst,  learning  of  the  fatal  issue  of  Abercrombie's  cam 
paign,  with  an  unwonted  ardor,  not  waiting  for  orders, 


1  When  the  chiefs  proposed  "  to  go  on  the  road  to  Port  Edward,"  Mont 
calm  told  them  "to  go  to  the  d— 1."  A  young  chief  came  back  quite  furi 
ous  saying  Montcalm  had  turned  him  out  of  doors.—  Doc.,  x,  805. 


102  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

immediately  embarked  four  or  five  regiments,  and  hastened 
to  Boston.  He  commenced  at  once  a  march  through  the 
forest  towards  Lake  George,  which  he,  in  person,  reached 
in  October.  In  the  preceding  month,  Abercrombie  had 
been  recalled,  and  Amherst  appointed  the  commander-in- 
chief  of  the  forces  in  North  America.1  In  November, 
1758,  he  assumed  the  command,  and  Abercrombie  returned 
to  England ;  evaded  censure  ;  was  gladdened  by  promo 
tion,  and  lived  to  vote  as  a  member  of  parliament  for  the 
taxation  of  a  country,  which  his  imbecility  might  have 
lost,  and  which  was  always  the  object  of  his  malignant 
aspersions.2 

Amherst,  without  any  claim  to  brilliancy  or  genius,  was 
calculated  to  command  success  by  the  excellence  of  his 
judgment,  his  prudent  circumspection,  and  persevering 
firmness.  His  character  and  policy  had  secured  to  him 
the  respect  and  confidence  of  the  colonies.  His  measures 
were  not  stimulated  by  the  arrogance  of  Braddock,  nor 
trammelled  by  the  feebleness  and  indecision  of  Aber 
crombie,  nor  dishonored  by  the  pusillanimity  of  Webb. 

When  the  exactions  for  the  campaign  of  seventeen  hun 
dred  and  fifty-nine  were  known  to  the  colonies,  they  were 
appalled  by  the  magnitude  of  the  burdens  that  were  contem 
plated.  Under  the  assurance  that  the  campaign  of  the  last 
year  should  be  the  final  effort,  they  had  yielded  their  appro 
priations  to  it  with  unbounded  fervor  and  enthusiasm.  But 
they  had  seen  their  blood  and  treasures  lavished,  without 
securing  any  adequate  results.  The  voluntary  contribu 
tions  and  public  taxation  had  consumed  their  resources, 
while  the  population  was  almost  exhausted  of  its  avail 
able  strength  by  the  constantly  recurring  demands  of  the 
protracted  war.3  Although  reeling  under  these  debilities, 
every  colony  north  of  Maryland,  stimulated  by  the  ardor 
of  Pitt  and  wielded  by  his  influence,  with  an  abiding  reli 
ance  on  the  integrity  and  skill  of  Amherst,  freely  yielded  to 

1  Doc.,  vn,  345.        2  Bancroft ;  O'Callaglian,  Doc.,  vn,  345. 
'  Minot.    Grahame. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  103 

his  fresh  requisition,  their  wealth  and  their  sons.  On  the 
twentieth  of  June,  Amherst  took  up  a  position  near  the  ruins 
of  William  Henry.  Although  his  entire  army,  consisting  of 
about  eleven  thousand  effective  men,  formed  in  about  equal 
proportions  of  regulars  and  provincials,  did  not  assemble 
until  the  twenty-first  of  July.  On  that  day  another  gor 
geous  and  imposing  procession  in  four  columns  moved 
down  the  quiet  lake.  A  landing  was  effected  without 
opposition  on  the  eastern  shore  nearly  opposite  to  Howe's 
cove.  In  the  combinations  of  this  campaign  the  British 
ministry  designed  to  direct  a  blow  at  the  heart  of  New 
France  by  an  attack  upon  Quebec  from  the  gulf  with  a  pow 
erful  army  led  by  Wolfe,  while  Amherst  should  cooperate 
by  advancing  with  a  still  more  formidable  force  along  the 
Champlain  frontier. 

Montcalm,  oppressed  by  the  annoyances  and  impediments 
we  have  noticed,  and  despondent  from  his  wasting  estate 
and  absence  from  a  dependent  family,  had  reiterated  de 
mands  for  his  recall.  This  request  was  endorsed  and 
pressed  with  extreme  sincerity  by  Vandreuil.1  But  France 
felt  that  his  great  intellect  alone  sustained  the  tottering 
fabric  of  her  colonial  power.  Instead  of  an  acquiescence, 
the  ominous  despatch  arrived  from  Versailles :  "  You  must 
not  expect  to  receive  any  military  reenforcements ;  we  will 
convey  all  the  provisions  and  ammunition  possible  ;  the  rest 
depends  on  your  wisdom  and  courage  and  the  bravery  of 
your  troops."2  All  the  martial  ardor  of  Montcalm  was  en- 
flamed,  and  his  patriotic  devotion  enlisted.  He  resolved  to 
fall  beneath  the  ruins  of  the  colony.  To  a  kinsman  in 
France  he  wrote  :  "  There  are  situations  where  nothing 
remains  for  a  general  but  to  die  with  honor.  *  * 
*  My  thoughts  are  wholly  for  France,  and  will  be 
even  in  the  grave,  if  in  the  grave  anything  remains  for  us."3 


1  Doc.,  x,  758,  769,  783. 

2  Belle  Isle  to  Montcalm,  February  19th,  1759,  Doc.,  x,  943. 

3  Private  letter  of  Montcalm,  see  Appendix. 


104  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY, 

Montcalm,  collecting  his  scattered  battalions,  and  sum 
moning  to  his  standard  all  the  population  of  the  province 
able  to  bear  arms,  repaired  to  Quebec  to  oppose  the  opera 
tions  of  Wolfe.  With  a  feeble  force  of  twenty -three  hundred 
men,  Boulamarque  remained  in  charge  of  the  fortresses 
upon  the  lake,  to  confront  Amherst  and  to  retard  his  pro 
gress,  while  •  resistance  would  not  endanger  the  safety  of 
his  troops.  He  proposed  to  assail  the  English  in  their 
advance  through  the  woods ;  but  the  Indians,  most  useful 
under  such  circumstances,  defeated  the  scheme  by  refusing 
to  cooperate.  He  left  a  garrison  of  four  hundred  men  at 
Ticonderoga,  with  orders  to  maintain  the  position,  until 
the  investment  was  completed,  then  to  blow  up  the  fort 
and  fall  back  upon  Crown  point.  Amherst  effected  the 
investment  of  the  fort  on  the  23d  ;  but  on  the  evening  of 
the  26th,  a  heavy  explosion  announced  the  evacuation  of 
Ticonderoga,  and  that  the  domination  of  France  had  ceased. 
Amherst  immediately  occupied  the  abandoned  fortification. 

This  conquest,  the  desire  and  labor  of  so  many  years,  was 
at  length  achieved  almost  without  the  effusion  of  blood. 
Townsend,  the  adjutant-general  of  Amherst,  a  young 
officer  of  high  promise  and  in  many  qualities  the  counter 
part  of  Howe,  was  killed,  while  reconnoitering  the  fort,  by 
a  cannon  ball.  His  death,  and  the  loss  of  about  eighty 
men,  were  the  sacrifices  by  which  this  important  conquest 
was  secured.  Exact,  cautious  and  fettered  by  the  prescribed 
forms  of  military  progress,  Amherst  consumed  two  weeks 
in  the  guarded  and  anxious  scrutiny  by  his  spies  and  scouts, 
before  he  ventured  to  advance  upon  Crown  point.  He 
found  it  abandoned  and  desolate.  Boulamarque  had  re 
treated  with  his  army  and  munition,  to  fortify  the  Isle  aux 
Noix.  Amherst,  as  soon  as  the  occupation  of  Crown  point 
was  safely  accomplished,  commenced  the  preparations  for 
erecting  a  new  fortress  near  the  site  of  St.  Frederic,  but  on 
a  scale  of  increased  magnitude  and  strength.  Unnecessary 
at  that  time,  and  rendered  wholly  useless  by  the  conquest 
of  Canada,  he  left  the  work  unfinished  after  the  expenditure 
of  more  than  ten  millions  of  dollars.  The  most  conspicuous 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  .        105 

ruins  at  Crown  point  visited  with  such  deep  interest  by 
the  tourist  and  antiquarian  are  the  remains  of  this  fort.1 

Amherst,  with  great  assiduity  and  vigor,  prepared 
means  to  secure  a  naval  preponderance  upon  the  lake. 
While  he  awaited  the  building  of  a  flotilla  at  Ticonderoga, 
two  measures  were  accomplished  by  his  orders,  uncon 
nected  with  each  other  and  infinitely  dissimilar  in  their 
character  and  results.  The  first  was  the  construction  of 
a  military  road  from  Crown  point  to  Charlestown,  or 
Number  Four  on  the  Connecticut  river,  which,  traversing 
the  entire  width  of  Vermont,  rendered  a  large  and 
valuable  territory  accessible  to  civilization  and  improve 
ment.  The  remains  of  this  work  may  still  be  traced.2 

The  other  contemplated  the  destruction  of  the  Indian 
village  of  St.  Francis,  situated  on  the  river  of  that  name, 
about  midway  between  Montreal  and  Quebec.  Their 
frequent  and  active  incursions  and  the  relentless  atrocities 
that  made  this  band  of  the  Abenakis  conspicuous  in  a 
horrid  warfare,  had  rendered  them  the  terror  of  New 
England,  and  objects  of  peculiar  vengeance. 

On  the  13th  of  September,  Rogers,  with  great  secrecy, 
and  a  careful  concealment  of  his  design,  left  Crown  point 
on  this  perilous  service.  His  party  consisted  of  one  hun 
dred  and  forty-two  effective  men.  Descending  the  lake 
with  the  utmost  caution  and  vigilance,  in  the  hope  of 
escaping  the  observation  of  the  French,  on  the  tenth  day 
from  his  departure,  he  reached  the  foot  of  Missisqui 
bay.  Here  the  boats  were  concealed,  with  provisions  to 
supply  the  party  on  its  return,  and  leaving  two  trusty  In 
dians  to  secretly  watch  them,  Rogers  proceeded  on  his 
expedition.  The  second  day  after,  the  Indians  overtook 
him,  with  the  alarming  intelligence,  that  the  boats  had 
been  discovered  and  removed  by  the  French,  and  that  a 
detachment  of  about  two  hundred  Avere  in  rapid  pursuit. 
Notwithstanding  the  disguise  and  caution  of  Rogers,  Bou- 
lamarque,  perfectly  advised  of  all  his  movements,  had  fol- 

1  Doc.,  x,  670.        2  Goodhue's  Skorehan. 


106  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

lowed  his  track,  seized  the  boats,  and  lay  in  ambush,  expect 
ing  the  return  of  the  English.1  But  Rogers's  shrewdness 
could  not  thus  be  entrapped.  Hesitating  for  a  moment, 
the  decision  of  the  bold  ranger  was  formed.  Dispatching 
Lieutenant  McMullin  and  eight  men,  who  were  to  pene 
trate  the  pathless  wilderness  to  Crown  point,  with  a 
request  to  Amherst,  to  send  the  necessary  supplies  to 
meet  the  party  at  the  Cohase  intervales,  a  point  sixty  miles 
north  of  Number  Four,  the  extreme  northern  post  of  the 
English  on  the  Connecticut,  Rogers  determined  to  prose 
cute  the  original  design. 

Nine  days  his  march  continued,  wading  through  un 
broken  swamps  and  morasses ;  sleeping  upon  hammocks 
elevated  above  the  water,  by  boughs  cut  from  the  trees,  and 
fording  deep  streams.  On  the  evening  of  the  twenty- 
second  day  of  his  expedition,  the  party  approached  their 
unsuspecting  victims.  Rogers  and  two  of  his  officers 
reconnoitered  the  village,  and  found  it  abandoned  to 
revelry  and  dancing.  Amherst,  in  his  instructions  to 
Rogers,  had  given  expression,  rare  in  that  age  of  savage 
cruelty,  to  the  voice  of  mercy  and  humanity.  "  Take 
your  revenge  on  the  warriors ;  but  remember,"  he  said, 
"  it  is  my  orders  that  no  women  or  children  are  killed  or 
hurt."  Just  as  the  day  was  dawning,  the  troops  "  on  the 
right,  centre,  and  left,"  burst  upon  the  slumbering  vil 
lagers.  The  surprise  was  complete  and  few  escaped. 
"  We  killed,"  reports  Rogers,  "  two  hundred  Indians," : 
and  took  twenty  of  their  women  and  children  prisoners. 
He  dismissed  all  but  five  of  the  latter  prisoners,  whom  he 
retained,  and  released  five  English  captives.  The  light 
revealed  the  horrid  spectacle  of  more  than  six  hundred 
scalps,  of  both  sexes  and  of  every  age,  chiefly  English, 
floating  like  dread  pennons  from  the  lodge  poles  and 
cabins  of  the  savages.  When  the  rangers  looked  upon 

lDoc.,  x,  1043. 

3  The  term  Indians  was  often  used  to  designate  warriors,  and  we  may 
hope  it  was  so  in  this  instance  ;  but  Pouchot  states  that  the  warriors  were 
absent.— Vol.  i,  223, 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  107 

these  symbols  of  Indian  barbarity,  they  might,  with  truth, 
have  felt,  that  they  were  not  only  instruments  of  ven 
geance,  but  ministers  of  justice.  The  village  was  con 
sumed,  and  many  of  the  Indians,  who  had  sought  a  refuge 
in  the  cellars  and  lofts,  were  burnt  to  death.  Captain 
Ogden,  of  the  rangers,  was  severely  wounded,  six  others 
slightly,  and  one  Indian  of  the  party  killed.  Loading  the 
men  with  all  the  plunder  and  corn  they  were  able  to 
carry,  Rogers  immediately  commenced  a  retreat  in  the 
direction  of  the  Connecticut.  He  was  pursued  by  a  body 
of  Indians,  and  repeatedly  attacked,  with  the  loss  of  a  few 
prisoners.  At  length  he  turned  upon  his  pursuers,  and 
dealt  them  a  punishment  so  severe,  as  to  arrest  further 
open  assaults,  but  they  hung  upon  his  rear  with  a  deadly 
tenacity ;  and  when  the  detachment  separated  into  small 
bodies,  which  policy  Eogers  was  constrained  to  adopt,  on 
the  eighth  day  of  the  march,  in  order  more  readily  to 
procure  subsistence,  they  attacked  and  killed  or  captured 
many  of  the  party.1 

The  different  bodies  toiling  in  intense  labor  and  suffer 
ing,  marching  over  steep  rocky  mountains,  and  traversing 
rivers  and  deep  morasses,  were  sustained,  arnid  fatigue  and 
hunger,  by  the  confident  hope  of  finding  relief  and  repose 
at  the  place  designated  by  Rogers.  They  reached  it,  and 
found  the  brands,  enkindled  by  the  party  which  was  to  con 
vey  them  supplies,  still  smouldering;  but  no  friends,  no 
food.  McMullen,  penetrating  the  vast  forest  a  hundred 
miles  in  extent,  arrived  at  Crown  point  on  the  ninth  day  of 
his  march.  Amherst,  with  no  delay,  had  directed  a  lieute 
nant  Stephens  to  convey  the  requisite  supplies  to  the  ap 
pointed  rendezvous,  and  to  remain  while  a  hope  existed  of 
the  return  of  Rogers.  He  reached  the  place  with  ample 
provisions,  but  fearing  the  approach  of  the  Indians,  conti 
nued  only  two  days  at  his  post  and  abandoned  it,  as  after- 

1  The  Indians  massacred  some  forty,  and  carried  off  ten  prisoners  to  their 
village,  where  some  of  them  fell  victims  to  the  fury  of  the  Indian  women, 
notwithstanding  the  efforts  made  by  the  Canadians  to  save  them."  Doc., 
x,  1042 


108  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

* 

wards  appeared,  but  two  hours  before  the  arrival  of  Rogers. 
He  heard  the  signal  guns  fired  to  recall  him,  but  believing 
them  to  indicate  the  presence  of  Indians,  his  flight  was 
precipitated. 

Leaving  his  exhausted  and  famishing  comrades  with 
the  assurance  that  in  ten  days  they  should  be  relieved,  to 
procure  "  what  wretched  subsistence  they  could  in  a  bar 
ren  wilderness,"  Rogers,  accompanied  by  Ogden,  a  ranger, 
and  an  Indian  youth,  undertook  to  descend  the  river  upon 
a  raft  in  pursuit  of  aid.  Rogers  does  not  intimate  his 
motive  for  carrying  with  him  the  Indian,  but  we  may 
form  a  fearful  conjecture.  The  first  raft  was  lost  among 
the  rapids ;  destitute  of  implements,  they  could  only  con 
struct  another,  with  trees  felled  and  reduced  to  the  appro 
priate  length  by  burning.  The  fort  at  Number  Four  was 
reached  by  an  inflexible  determination,  and  a  canoe  with 
supplies  immediately  despatched,  which  arrived  at  Cohase 
on  the  day  designated  by  Rogers.  He  returned  to  Crown 
point  on  the  1st  December,  and  when  the  scattered  parties 
were  reassembled,  he  reported  the  loss  after  the  detach 
ment  retreated  from  the  ruins  of  the  St.  Francis  village, 
of  three  officers  and  forty-six  privates.1 

On  the  eleventh  of  October,  Captain  Loring  of  the  navy, 
to  whom  the  work  was  confided,  had  succeeded  by  the 
most  energetic  efforts  in  completing  the  construction  of  a 
sloop  carrying  sixteen  guns,  a  brigantine  and  radeau 
mounted  with  six  cannon  of  large  calibre.  Amherst  em 
barked  his  army  in  a  vast  flotilla  of  bateaux,  and,  escorted 
by  these  vessels,  proceeded  on  his  long  procrastinated  ex 
pedition.  The  next  day  he  encountered  one  of  those 
severe  autumnal  gales,  which  often  at  that  season  sweep 
over  the  lake.2  Twelve  of  the  boats  were  foundered,  and 
the  remainder  sought  shelter  under  the  western  shore  of 
the  lake.  Amherst  probably  advanced  while  struggling 
with  these  adverse  circumstances  to  the  vicinity  of  Valcour 

1  Rogers' s  Journal,  144, 159.        2  PomJiot,  i,  146 ;  n,  66. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  109 

island,  and  there  on  the  mainland  formed  an  encampment.1 
Loring,  with  the  sloop  and  brigantine,  continued  on  his 
course,  and  compelled  the  French  to  destroy  two  of  their 
vessels  in  a  bay  on  the  north-east  angles  of  Yalcour;  a  third 
was  sunk,  and  one  only,  the  schooner,  escaped,  and  sought 
shelter  under  the  guns  of  the  Isle  aux  E"oix.2 

Experience  or  inquiry  might  have  suggested  to  Amherst, 
that  these  periodical  gales  on  the  lake  are  always  limited 
in  their  duration,  and  usually  succeeded  by  a  term  of  serene 
and  genial  weather.  But  ever  controlled  by  an  extreme 
of  prudence  and  caution,  he  returned  to  Crown  point  after 
an  absence  of  ten  days,  relinquishing  the  combinations 
his  movements  were  intended  to  promote,  and  abandoning 
Wolfe  to  work  out  the  fortunes  of  his  army  by  his  own 
unbounded  energies  and  genius. 

It  is  not  my  province  to  pursue  the  course  of  events  on 
the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  but  a  brief  space  devoted 
to  the  last  scenes  in  the  life  of  one  who  has  occupied  so 
wide  a  space  in  our  narrative,  can  need  no  apology.  On 
the  24th  of  August,  1759,  Montcalm,  as  if  in  the  cool 
tracings  of  history,  instead  of  the  speculations  of  prophetic 
prescience,  wrote  :  "  The  capture  of  Quebec  must  be  the 
work  of  a  coup  de  main.  The  English  are  masters  of  the 
river.  They  have  but  to  effect  a  descent  on  the  bank  on 
which  this  city,3  without  fortification  and  without  defense, 

1 1  adopt  this  conclusion  from  the  language  of  an  English  writer  of  the 
period,  and  from  the  popular  traditions  of  the  region.  Those  are  still  living 
who  recollect  an  opening  on  the  Pine  bluffs,  south  of  the  Au  Sable  river 
and  directly  upon  the  boundary  line  between  Clinton  and  Essex  counties, 
which,  in  the  early  part  of  the  century,  was  known  as  Amherst's  encamp 
ment.  It  exhibited  vestiges  of  extensive  field-works  the  habitual  cau 
tion  of  Amherst  would  have  led  him  to  erect,  and  also  remains  of  tar 
manufactories,  formed  in  the  primitive  method  of  the  pioneers.  It  is  a 
singular  coincidence,  that  the  tar  and  pitch  used  in  the  equipment  of  Mc- 
Donough's  fleet,  more  than  fifty  years  afterwards,  were  made  on  the  same 
ground  and  by  a  similar  process, —  Almn  Colvin,  Esq. 

*Doc.,  vn,  405  ;  x,  1042  ;  Pouchot. 

3  Montcalm  must  here  speak  comparatively  and  refer  to  the  inadequacy 
of  the  works  which  surrounded  Quebec.  A  reference  to  this  remarkable 
and  deeply  interesting  document  will  be  found  in  Appendix  B. 


110  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

is  situated,  and  they  are  at  once  in  condition  to  offer  me 
battle  which  I  cannot  refuse,  and  which  I  ought  not  to  be 
permitted  to  gain.  In  fine,  Mr.  Wolfe,  if  he  understands 
his  business,  has  but  to  receive  my  first  fire,  to  rush  ra 
pidly  upon  my  army,  to  discharge  his  volley  at  close  quar 
ters,  and  my  Canadians  without  discipline,  deaf  to  the 
call  of  the  drum  and  the  trumpet,  and  thrown  into  dis 
order  by  this  assault,  will  be  unable  to  recover  their  ranks. 
They  have  no  bayonets  to  meet  those  of  their  enemy ; 
nothing  remains  for  them  but  flight,  and  I  am  routed 
irretrievably." 

Three  weeks  later,  Wolfe,  pursuing  the  instincts  of  a 
congenial  spirit,  had  fulfilled  the  presages  of  Montcalm, 
and  stood  with  his  army  upon  the  plains  of  Abraham. 
Prophecy  became  history,  and  Montcalm,  routed  as  he 
had  predicted,  was  borne  back  to  Quebec  with  a  fatal 
wound,  rejoicing  "  that  he  should  not  live  to  witness  its 
fall."  Confiding  to  his  subordinate  the  honor  of  France, 
and  commending  the  companions  of  his  misfortunes  and 
glory  to  the  clemency  of  a  generous  foe,  he  exclaims :  "As 
for  me,  I  shall  spend  the  night  with  God."1  Montcalm 
survived  his  illustrious  rival  only  a  few  hours,  and  at  his 
own  request  was  buried  in  a  pit  excavated  by  a  shell  in 
exploding;  "A  meet  tomb  for  a  warrior,  who  died  on  the 
field  of  honor."2 

Rashness  and  precipitancy  have  been  imputed  to  Mont 
calm  in  the  campaign  before  Quebec,  and  with  a  degree 
apparently  of  justice.  Why  did  he  hasten  the  attack  before 
the  aid  he  had  summoned  could  arrive  ?  The  motives  that 

1  Bancroft.    Pouchot. 

3 1  dissent  with  much  hesitation  from  the  suggested  doubts  of  an  eminent 
authority,  in  reference  to  the  grave  of  Montcalm.  (O'Callaghan's  note,  Doc. 
x,  400).  I  accept  the  statement  not  alone  on  the  authority  of  the  Biographic 
Universelle,  but  on  the  strength  of  the  commemorative  painting  of  his 
death,  dictated  by  his  officers  (Pouchot,  I,  217),  but  more  especially  on  the 
language  of  the  majestic  epitaph  of  the  French  Academy  of  Inscription : 
"  Deposited  his  mortal  remains  in  a  grave  which  a  falling  bomb  in  exploding 
had  excavated."  For  this  epitaph  and  the  elegant  and  feeling  correspond 
ence  between  Bougainville  and  Pitt  on  the  subject,  see  Appendix  B. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  HI 

influenced  his  action  are  buried  in  his  grave.  Moutreuil, 
a  veteran  and  experienced  soldier,  asserts  that  delay  would 
have  enabled  Wolfe  to  entrench  upon  a  hill,  and  thus  render 
his  position  impregnable.1  Bishop  De  Pontbriand,  who 
participated  in  these  events,  sustains  the  same  views,  and 
says  "  that  Montcalm  deigned  to  avail  himself  of  the  first 
impulses  of  his  troops."  He  adds  a  fact,  which  if  it  existed, 
manifests  the  highest  wisdom  and  skill  in  the  measures 
adopted  by  Montcalm  :  "  had  he  delayed  an  hour  the  enemy 
would  have  been  reenforced  by  three  thousand  men  and 
eight  pieces  of  cannon.2  Bougainville,  who  had  ascended 
the  river  with  two  thousand  select  men,  to  watch  the  opera 
tions  of  Wolfe,  was  instantly,  on  the  landing  of  the  English 
army,  ordered  to  return.  Did  the  rapid  conception  enter 
into  the  sagacious  mind  of  Montcalm,  that  Bougainville 
should  return  while  the  battle  raged,  and  falling  upon  the 
the  rear  of  Wolfe  annihilate  his  forces ;  and  success,  in  bold 
and  consummate  strategy,  like  this,  would  have  emblazoned 
with  the  brightest  radiance  the  martial  fame  of  Montcalm. 
Obloquy  and  detraction  did  not  pause  at  the  glorious  grave 
of  Montcalm.  He  was  charged  not  merely  with  reckless 
ness  and  presumption,  but  the  base  offense  was  imputed 
to  him,  of  sacrificing  his  own  life  and  the  realm  of  New 
France  to  a  groveling  jealousy  of  Vaudreuil.3  These 
calumnies  have  never  satisfactorily  explained  why  Vau 
dreuil,  lying  within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  the  scene  of  action, 
with  fifteen  hundred  men,  did  not  advance  with  greater 
celerity,  assume  the  command  warranted  by  his  rank,  and 
direct  the  operations  of  the  army.  The  advance  of  Wolfe 
could  not  have  been  veiled  from  his  knowledge.4 

A  want  of  enterprise  has  been  singularly  ascribed  to 
Montcalm,  not  only  by  his  detractors  of  that  age,  but  a 

lDoc.,  x,  1014.        2  An  impartial  opinion  etc.,  Doc.,  x,  1061. 

9  Doc,,  x,  1034,  1043  ;  Garneau,  n,  327. 

4  Bancroft  says  that  "  messenger  after  messenger  was  dispatched  to  Vau 
dreuil  to  come  up  ; "  I  know  not  on  what  authority.  No  official  document 
I  think  discloses  the  fact,  and  the  Relations,  etc.,  explicitly  denies  it. —  Doc., 
x,  1061. 


112  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

modern  Canadian  writer  indulges  in  the  same  strictures.1 
The  marvellous  exploits,  achieved  with  means  so  inade 
quate,  should  dispel  all  these  imputations.  And  it  should 
be  remembered  that  wise  enterprise  is  always  tempered 
by  prudence  and  discretion.  Yaudreuil,  after  the  capitu 
lation  of  1760,  went  back  to  France,  and  he,  in  turn,  was 
marked  by  adverse  fortune,  and  an  object  of  injustice  and 
persecution.  The  friends  of  Montcalm,  it  is  said,  pur 
sued  and  oppressed  him  with  a  vindictive  animosity ;  but 
he  was  in  life  able  to  secure  the  vindication  of  his  honor 
and  integrity. 

The  repose  that  rested  upon  the  shores  of  Champlain, 
was  interrupted  by  no  event  of  public  interest,  until  the 
campaign  of  the  next  year.  The  attention  of  Amherst 
was  devoted  to  the  extension  and  improvement  of  the 
works  at  Ticonderoga,  and  the  erection,  as  we  have 
already  noticed,  of  a  magnificent  fortress  on  Crown  point. 

The  remains  of  these  works,  now  crumbling  ruins,  still 
attest  their  original  splendor  and  strength.  They  are  now 
guarded  and  preserved  by  private  taste  and  intelligence, 
from  the  vandal  outrages  which  were  rapidly  destroying 
them.  We  may  cherish  the  hope,  that  the  most  extensive 
and  imposing  ruins  in  America,  redolent  with  the  bright 
est  historical  associations,  and  becoming  shrouded  in  the 
venerableness  of  antiquity,  will  be  perpetuated  to  excite 
the  admiration  and  to  attract  the  pilgrimage  of  future 
ages.  These  fields  of  glory  are  now  tilled  in  the  peaceful 
pursuits  of  husbandry.  In  the  vicinity  of  Ticonderoga, 
balls,  muskets,  swords,  and  numerous  other  relics  of  war, 
are  constantly  revealed.  At  one  period,  the  line  of  the 
fatal  abatis  might  almost  be  traced  by  these  dumb  but 
significant  memorials  of  the  spot  where  the  harvest  of 
death  had  been  the  most  exuberant. 

The  course  of  the  circumvallations  and  trenches,  singu 
larly  complex  and  interlaced,  may  readily  be  distinguished. 
Part  of  the  battlements  rising  above  the  rocky  clitf  are 


Doc.,  x,  1043  ;  Garneau,  xi,  327. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  -    113 

almost  entire.     The  line  of  the  ramparts  is  still  traced; 
the  ruins  of  a  portion  of  the  barracks  remain,  although 
private  cupidity  has  removed  much  of  the  brick  and  stone 
of  the  buildings.    The  bakery  is  in  a  state  of  good  preserv 
ation.     At  Crown  point  the  ruin  is  still  better  preserved, 
although  here  the  deep  interest  that  entrances  at  Ticon- 
deroga,  is  less  profound  and  exciting.      The  mounds  of 
Fort  St.  Frederic  are  yet  perceptible,  although  fallen  and 
dilapidated.     The  oven,  the  covered  way,  and  magazine, 
are  easily  distingished.      The  fort  erected  by  Amherst, 
might  even  now  be  restored.     The  form  of  the  vast  quad 
rangular  barracks,  which  enclosed  the  esplanade,  may  still 
be   distinguished,   although   one   side   has    been    totally 
demolished,  and  another  partially  removed.    They  formed, 
until  the  desecration  was  arrested  by  the  present  pro 
prietors,  quarries  that  supplied  building  material  to  a  wide 
region.     Two  of  these  barracks  remain  in  partial  preserv 
ation,  one  a  hundred  and  ninety- two  feet  and  the  other 
two  hundred  and  sixteen  feet  in  length.     The  walls  yet 
stand,  and  although  roofless,  without  floors,  and  the  beams 
charred  and  blackened,  they  are  in  more  perfect  condition 
than  any  other  part  of  either  ruin.     The  inner  walls  bear 
the  soldiers'  idle  scribblings  of  more  than  a  century  ago. 
Each  room  contains  a  broad  and  lofty  fireplace.     The  gar 
rison  well,  almost  one  hundred  feet  deep,  remains.     The 
direction  of  the   covered  way,  conducting  to  the  lake, 
although  occasionally  fallen  in,  may  readily  be  discerned. 
How  changed  the  scene,  since  the  chivalry  of  France 
and    England,   and    the    savage   warriors    from   Acadia 
to   the  precincts  of  Hudson's  bay,  were  marshaled  on 
these  shores.     Last  autumn,  standing  on  a  lofty  eminence 
on  the  southern  limits  of  Essex  county,  I  gazed  far  along 
the  bold  banks  and  tranquil  bosom  of  Lake  George.     The 
view  was  as  lovely  as  in  the  age  of  Montcalm  and  Howe ; 
but  not  a  sound  broke  the  deep  stillness  of  nature,  not  a 
form  interrupted  its  solitude.     When  I  stood  amid  the 
ruins  of  Crown  point,  cattle  were  ruminating  in  its  bas 
tion,  and  a  solitary  robin  twittered  among  the  branches  of 
8 


114  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

a  tree,  whose  roots  were  interlaced  among  the  rocks  of  the 
ramparts.  I  saw  sheep  feeding  upon  the  walls  of  Fort 
Carillon,  and  plucked  wild  grapes  from  a  vine  clustering 
upon  the  ruins  of  its  magazine. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 
THE  COLONIZATION,  1760  - 1775. 

While  Amherst  procrastinated  his  movements,  the  last 
convulsive,  but  nearly  successful  struggle  for  a  prolonged 
dominion,  was  made  by  De  Levis,  in  the  attempted  recap 
ture  of  Quebec.     The  battle  of  Sillery,  contiguous  to  the 
plains  of  Abraham,  had  been  fought,  where  the  brave  but 
presumptuous   and   incompetent   Murray   experienced    a 
defeat  as  severe  in  its  losses  and  complete  in  the  route,  as 
that  which  proved  fatal  to  Montcalm.     But  circumstances 
were  not  equally  propitious  to  the  French  for  the  consumma 
tion   of  the  victory.1     Amherst  reserved  to  himself  the 
command  of  the  largest  column  of  the  British  armies,  which 
in  accordance  with  the  plan  of  the  campaign  of  1760,  con 
sisted  of  ten  thousand  men  and  was  designed  to  approach 
Montreal  by  Oswego  and  the  line  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Proceeding  with  a  slow  caution,  that  the  enfeebled  condition 
of  the  French  forces  did  not  exact,  and  incurring  to  his 
army  great  and  unnecessary  toil,  and  sweeping  away  as 
he  advanced  all  the  remains  of  hostile  power  along  these 
waters,  he  appeared  early  in  September  before  the  walls  of 
Montreal. 

Haviland  was  in  charge  of  the  troops  which  remained 
at  the  fortresses  on  Lake  Champlain.  While  delaying  for 
the  progress  of  Amherst's  operations,  several  bold  and 
successful  incursions  were  made  from  this  point,  against 
the  settlement  of  Canada,  by  Rogers,  in  connection  with 

1  The  battle  of  Sillery  was  fought  near  the  Cote  d'Abraham  ;  this,  with 
the  celebrated  Plains  of  Abraham,  was  called  after  one  Abraham  Martin, 
who  owned  a  farm  in  the  immediate  vicinity. —  O'Callaghan,  Doc.,  x,  1801. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  H5 

the  naval  force,  which  now  held  the  control  of  the  lake. 
On  the  16th  of  August,  1760,  the  last  brilliant  martial 
procession  of  the  war  departed  from  Crown  point.  Bear 
ing  about  three  thousand  regulars  and  provincials,  under 
the  command  of  Colonel  Haviland,  it  moved  down  the 
lake  in  a  long  line  of  bateaux,  under  the  convoy  of  four 
armed  vessels,  with  an  equal  number  of  radeaux,  each  of 
which  bore  a  heavy  armament.  Richard  Montgomery, 
who  had  already  attracted  the  attention  and  won  the 
applause  of  Wolfe,  at  Louis  burg,  accompanied  this  expe 
dition,  as  adjutant  of  the  Seventeenth  regiment  of  foot.1 

Haviland  effected  a  descent  near  the  Isle  aux  Noix, 
without  opposition,  and  at  once  erected  batteries  opposite 
the  fort  upon  the  main  land.  Bougainville,  who  occupied 
the  works  with  sixteen  hundred  men,  had  strengthened 
his  position  by  anchoring  a  fleet  of  small  vessels  on  his 
flank.  These  were  vigorously  attacked  and  soon  dispersed 
or  captured.  The  rangers  swam  out  to  one,  tomahawk  in 
hand,  boarded  and  seized  her.2  Weakened  by  this  loss, 
Bougainville,  on  the  night  of  the  29th,  abandoned  his  posi 
tion.  The  forts  at  St.  John's  and  Chambly  were  evacuated 
at  the  same  time,  the  garrisons  retreating  slowly  towards 
Montreal.  By  a  skillful  execution  of  happily  concerted 
movements,  Haviland  appeared  before  Montreal  on  the 
7th  of  September,  the  day  after  the  arrival  and  junction  of 
Amherst  and  Murray.  Murray  had  ascended  the  river 
from  Quebec,  driving  before  him  the  remnants  of  the  French 
army,  occupying  the  country  and  imposing  the  oath  of 
allegiance  upon  the  people.3 

In  this  last  stronghold  of  New  France,  Yandreuil,  its  last 
governor-general,  had  gathered  the  gallant  relics  of  his 
wasted  arrny,  and  with  an  intrepid  front,  made  the  most 
prudent  and  skillful  disposition  for  a  final  conflict.4  As 
the  blood  in  the  process  of  dissolution  recedes  from  the 
extremities  and  collects  about  the  heart,  so  all  the  Cana- 

1  Rogers,  133 ;  Armstrong's  Life  of  Montgomery.        2  Rogers,  191. 
8  Graham.    *  Idem;  De  Levis,  Doc.,  x,  1125. 


116  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

dian  power  of  France  had  gathered  around  the  only  re 
maining  citadel  of  its  strength.  All  the  chivalry  of  France 
that  still  survived  on  the  soil  of  Canada,  had  assembled 
here,  animated  by  a  zeal  and  ardor  that  almost  defied  des 
tiny.  There  was  De  Levis,  second  alone  to  Montcalm  in 
renown  and  services ;  there  was  Boulainarque,  the  target 
of  every  battle-field ;  and  Montrueil  the  successor  of  Dies- 
kau  at  Lake  George ;  and  Bougainville,  the  pupil  and  friend 
of  Montcalm,  and  to  become  illustrious  as  the  first  French 
circumnavigator  of  the  globe.  "  If  we  do  not  save  the 
country,  "  wrote  De  Levis  to  Belle  Isle,  "  we  will  sustain 
the  honor  of  the  king's  arms."1  But  the  contest  was  hope 
lessly  unequal,  and  on  the  8th  of  September,  Vandreuil 
proposed  terms  of  capitulation  which  were  soon  adjusted 
by  Amherst  in  a  spirit  of  humane  magnanimity,  and  the 
sceptre  of  New  France  was  yielded  to  England. 

By  the  treaty  of  Paris  the  next  year,  the  province  of 
Canada  was  formally  ceded  to  Great  Britain.  England, 
in  wild  exultation,  rejoiced  over  this  conquest,  which  added 
the  domain  of  almost  half  a  continent  to  her  realm,  as 
"the  most  important  that  ever  the  British  army  had 
achieved."2  But  the  far-seeing  and  comprehensive  mind 
of  Choiseul,  discerned  in  it  the  germ  of  the  dismember 
ment  of  the  British  empire.3  The  keen  forecast  of  Mont 
calm,  three  weeks  before  his  fatal  field,  found  consolation 
in  contemplating  the  same  view.  In  the  letter  from  which 
I  have  quoted  in  another  page,  he  writes :  "  I  shall  console 
myself  to  some  extent  for  my  defeat  and  for  the  loss  of 
our  colony  by  the  profound  conviction  which  I  entertain, 
that  this  defeat  will  one  day  become  of  greater  value  to 
my  country  than  a  victory,  and  that  the  victor  here  will 
find  his  grave,  in  his  very  victory."  He  then  proceeds  to 
trace  with  a  master's  hand,  the  consequences  which  will 
be  entailed  on  England  by  the  annexation  of  Canada, 
from  its  influences  upon  the  attitude  of  the  British  colonies.4 

1  Doc.,  x,  1103.        3  Smollet.        3  Bancroft.        4  See  Appendix  B. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  H7 

The  inference  derived  from  the  subsequent  aspect  of  the 
country,  and  the  silence  of  documents  and  history  on  the 
subject  is  strong,  if  not  conclusive,  that  the  actual  occupa 
tion  of  the  Champlain  valley  by  the  French,  for  practical 
and  agricultural  purposes,  although  they  maintained  their 
military  ascendancy  for  more  than  a  fourth  of  a  century, 
did  not  extend  far  beyond  the  protection  of  their  fortresses. 

The  extent  and  character  of  these  early  settlements  is  a 
question  of  strong  interest,  as  well  in  the  illustration  it 
affords  of  the  history  of  the  region,  as  in  the  antiquarian 
researches  it  demands.  Whatever  may  have  been  the 
number  or  situation  of  the  French  occupants,  they  appear 
to  have  receded  before  the  approach  of  the  victorious 
arms  of  Amherst,  and  probably  accompanied  the  retreat 
of  the  French  forces.  The  most  decisive  evidence  remains 
of  the  presence,  at  some  former  period,  of  a  considerable 
and  civilized  community  in  the  vicinity  of  Crown  point. 
The  vestiges  of  their  occupation  which  still  exist,  indicate 
a  people  who  knew  the  comforts  and  amenities  of  life, 
and  possessed  numbers  and  means  to  secure  their  enjoy 
ment.  The  allusions  of  ancient  manuscripts  corroborate 
the  traditions  preserved  in  the  reminiscences  of  aged 
persons,  that  a  population,  ranging  in  the  estimate  from 
fifteen  hundred  to  three  thousand  persons,  were  gathered 
around  the  fortress  of  St.  Frederic.  A  very  important 
traffic,  it  is  known,  existed  between  the  French  and 
English  possessions,  as  early  as  1700,  and  that  Lake 
Champlain  was  the  medium  of  the  intercourse.  Several 
years  anterior  to  that  period,  Crown  point,  it  will  be  re 
collected,  was  referred  to,  as  a  prominent  landmark,  in 
the  public  instructions  of  the  municipal  authorities  of 
Albany.  May  it  not  have  been,  previous  to  the  French 
occupation,  an  important  mart  of  this  commerce  ?  We 
think  the  conclusion  is  warranted,  that  Crown  point  was 
probably,  at  an  early  period,  a  trading  post,  at  which 
the  merchandise  of  the  French  and  English  colonies  were 
interchanged,  and  where  the  Indians  congregated  from 
widely  extended  hunting  grounds  to  traffic  their  peltries* 


118  HISTORY  OP  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

We  have  already  briefly  sketched  the  peninsular  position 
of  Crown  point — one  side  resting  on  Bulwagga  bay,  and 
the  other  washed  by  the  waters  of  the  lake.  When  we 
last  witnessed  it  the  clearest  evidences  remained  of  the 
ground,  for  many  rods  along  the  margin  of  the  bay,  having 
been  graded  and  formed  into  an  artificial  slope,  inclining 
to  the  water.  Ruins  of  enclosures  are  still  visible.  The 
fragments  of  a  former  wall,  in  one  instance,  distinctly 
mark  its  course.  Trees  which  have  sprung  up,  along  the 
line  of  the  wall,  have  supported  and  preserved  spaces  of  it 
almost  entire.  This  enclosure,  embracing  an  area  of  about 
two  acres,  was  evidently  a  fruit  yard  or  garden.  Fruit 
trees  were  flourishing  in  it  within  the  recollection  of  the 
present  owner. 

An  avenue  seems  to  have  swept  in  a  wide  curvature  along 
the  margin  of  the  lake  in  front  of  the  enclosure,  and 
approached  a  landing  place,  adapted  to  the  craft  which  at 
that  time  navigated  its  waters.  Still  more  distinct  and 
palpable  indications  are  exhibited  parallel  to  this  avenue, 
upon  the  crest  of  a  slight  eminence,  of  the  former  residence 
of  a  dense  and  prosperous  population.  A  street  may  be 
traced,  reaching  a  long  distance  towards  the  mainland, 
raised  and  covered  with  broken  stone  not  unlike  the  Mac 
adam  roads  of  the  present  day.  The  ruins  of  cellars,  many 
of  which  are  excavated  from  the  solid  rock,  line  this  street 
on  each  side.  The  compact  arrangement  of  these  cellars 
and  the  narrowness  of  the  avenue,  present  a  striking 
analogy  to  the  antiquated  villages  in  Canada,  founded  by 
the  French,  and  leave  little  doubt  that  their  origin  was  the 
same.  No  vestige  of  this  by-gone  age  so  thrilled  upon 
my  feelings  and  excited  my  imagination,  as  the  remnant  of 
the  sidewalk  along  this  street.  It  is  formed  of  flagging 
similar  to  that  now  in  use  in  our  cities.  The  stones  are 
smooth  and  worn,  and  remain  in  the  position  they  were 
left  by  the  generation  who  once  thronged  them  in  the  busy 
scenes  of  life.  We  were  assured  by  the  occupant  of  the 
ground,  that  he  has  displaced  many  continuous  rods  of  this 
pavement,  in  the  course  of  his  agricultural  operations, 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  H9 

which  were  in  perfect  preservation.  These  and  equally 
marked  indications,  extend  over  a  wide  space  about  the 
fort  along  the  shores  of  the  lake.  Two  large  cemeteries, 
one  near  the  garrison  grounds  and  the  other  three  miles 
south,  attest  that  the  living,  in  numerous  assemblies,  once 
animated  these  scenes.  The  worthy  occupant  of  the 
former,  remarked,  without  seeming  conscious  that  he  was 
yielding  to  the  dictate  of  a  refined  sentiment,  that  he  had 
felt  constrained  in  particular  spots  to  arrest  the  plow,  be 
cause  it  so  fearfully  exposed  the  relics  of  the  dead. 

Still  another  touching  testimony  remains  that  man,  in  an 
advanced  stage  of  society,  has  left  his  foot-prints  on  these 
scenes,  to  indicate  his  former  presence.  Asparagus,  other 
hardy  plants  and  shrubs,  usually  cherished  by  the  hand  of 
human  culture,  still  flourish,  wild  and  uncared  for,  upon 
these  fields.  The  settlers,  who  occupied  the  territory  after 
the  revolution,  found,  in  an  area  of  about  four  miles  from 
the  fort,  not  a  tree  or  a  bush  to  obstruct  the  view  over  the 
beautiful  and  wide  champaign,  that  had  been  once  highly 
cultivated.  Now,  a  heavy  forest  covers  half  the  tract. 
Rogers,  in  describing  one  of  his  predatory  excursions, 
speaks  of  luxuriant  crops  waving  upon  these  fields,  and  on 
another  occasion,  he  alludes  to  his  firing,  in  a  sudden 
foray,  the  village  itself.  He  mentions  also  "  settlements 
on  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  one  of  which  was  two  miles 
from  the  fort,  and  refers  to  the  presence  of  "three  hundred 
men  chiefly  inhabitants  of  the  adjacent  villages."  This 
number,  it  maybe  computed,  would  represent  a  population 
from  one  thousand  to  twelve  hundred.  In  a  previous  page 
I  have  referred  to  the  occupation  of  the  adjacent  country 
by  actual  settlers.  No  reasonable  doubt  exists,  that  large 
tracts  of  land  lying  between  the  works  at  Crown  point  and 
Ticonderoga  were  cleared  and  cultivated  long  previous  to 
the  permanent  colonization  of  the  English,  and  probably 
at  the  epoch  of  the  French  occupation.  The  heavy  forests 
which  now  stand  in  various  localities  in  this  district  exhibit 
conclusive  evidence  that  they  are  of  second  growth.  Kalm, 
the  Swedish  traveler,  saw  about  the  fort  in  1749,  "a  con- 


120  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

siderable  settlement,"  and  "pleasant  cultivated  gardens," 
and  "  a  neat  church  within  the  ramparts."  Persons  re 
cently  deceased,  whose  recollection  extended  to  a  period 
beyond  the  revolution,  recalled  Crown  point  when  its  busi 
ness  operations  were  conducted  in  several  stores.  A  cir 
cumstance  occurring  at  a  later  period,  which  we  shall  in 
troduce,  with  its  evidences,  in  a  subsequent  part  of  this 
narrative,  that  seems  to  have  contemplated  Crown  point 
as  a  capital  of  a  projected  province,  is  strongly  suggestive 
of  its  central  position  and  political  importance.  A  solitary 
farm  house  now  occupies  the  peninsula  of  Crown  point. 

Soon  after  the  cession  to  England  by  the  treaty  of  1763, 
of  the  French  possessions,  embracing  the  claims  of  France 
to  the  environs  of  Lake  Champlain,  the  attention  of  the 
colonial  government  of  New  York  was  directed  to  the 
importance  of  establishing  a  town  at  Crown  point.  Gov. 
Moore  in  1768  pressed  the  subject  with  great  urgency 
upon  the  ministry.  He  represented  that  the  measure 
would  be  attended  "with  great  advantages  to  the  province 
and  the  service  of  his  majesty,"  and  advises  that  "the  lots 
in  the  town  should  be  granted  on  the  easiest  terms,"  and 
"  that  their  presence  would  contribute  to  the  rapid  settle 
ment  of  the  entire  region."  He  also  encloses  "the  plan 
of  the  town  made  by  Adolphus  Benzel.1  A  memorial 
addressed  to  the  New  York  legislature  in  1775,  contains 
the  names  of  thirty-eight  males,  described  as  residents  of 
the  district  of  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  point.  We  may 
infer  from  this  fact  the  presence,  at  that  period,  of  a  popu 
lation  of  some  hundreds. 

Although  Canada  continued  in  the  military  occupation 
of  the  armies  of  England,  the  clouds  and  uncertainties, 

1  Doc.,  vin,  140.  Benzel  was  a  Swede,  emigrated  to  America  and  joined 
the  army  in  1752.  In  1770  lie  was  appointed  "  inspector  of  the  royal  woods 
and  forests  and  unappropriated  lands  on  the  Champlain,  with  a  large  salary 
for  that  period.  Nathan  Beaman,  the  youthful  guide  of  Allen,  informed 
Mr.  O.  F.  Sheldon,  that  about  the  year  1775,  he  rowed  a  party  from  Vermont, 
of  some  festive  occasion,  to  Crown  point,  and  mentioned  seeing  on  the  table 
of  Benzel,  silver-ware  and  other  evidences  of  wealth  and  luxury.  Benzel 
obtained  the  grant  of  the  military  reserves  at  Crown  point. — Doc.,  vm,  488. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  121 

which  shrouded  her  future  policy  in  reference  to  the  per 
manent  acquisition  of  the  country,  retarded  the  settlement 
of  the  environs  of  Lake  Champlain  by  American  emigrants. 
The  officers  and  soldiers,  of  hoth  the  regular  and  provin 
cial  line,  in  their  repeated  campaigns,  had  become  familiar 
with  the  region,  and  appreciated  its  beauty  and  fertility. 
The  teeming  west  was  still  the  domain  of  the  savage.  The 
impediments  to  colonization  referred  to  were  dispelled, 
when,  by  the  treaty  of  1763,  Canada,  Acadia  and  Cape 
Breton,  were  ceded  to  England. 

A  proclamation  made  October  7,  1763,  by  the  king  of 
Great  Britain,  authorized  the  colonial  governors  to  issue 
grants  of  land  to  be  located  in  any  colony  as  the  grantee 
preferred.     The  reduced  officers  and  men,  who  had  served 
in  the  Canadian  campaigns,  were  especially  to  be  regarded 
in  the  issuing  of  these  grants.     The  holders  were  em 
powered,  by  the  terms  of  their  grants,  to  make  locations 
upon  any  unappropriated  lands.     This  revolution,  in  the 
attitude  of  the  country,  communicated  a  new  impulse  to 
its  affairs,  and  opened  its  portals  widely  to  immigration. 
The  decade  succeeding  the  year  1765,  exhibited  vast  pro 
gress   in   its   improvement   and   cultivation.      Numerous 
patents  were  granted,  and  the  locations  made  under  them, 
came  frequently  into  collision  with  grants  issued  during 
the  French   intrusion.     Stimulated  by  the  value  of  the 
lands,  immensely  enhanced  by  these  events,  many  grants, 
utterly  fictitious,  were  asserted,  and  others  revived  that 
had  been  abrogated  by  the  French  government,  or  for 
feited  by  a  failure  in  the  performance  of  their  conditions. 
Others  derived  from  France,  were   preserved  by  actual 
tenure,  and  had  been  recognized  by  the  government  of 
Great  Britain.     Many  of  these  classes  were  also  violated 
by  location  of  grants  issued  in  pursuance  of  the  ordinance 
of  1763.     'No  grants,  in  addition  to  those  already  men 
tioned,  appear  to  have  been  issued  by  the  French  autho 
rities,   to   any  portion  of   Essex   county,   except  one  of 
November  15,  1758,  which  comprehended  a  large  part 
of  the  territory,  which  now  constitutes  the  towns  of  Crown 


122  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

point  and  Ticonderoga.  The  adjustment  of  the  conflict 
ing  rights  of  the  patentees,  under  these  adverse  grants  of 
the  French  and  English  authorities,  was  extremely  diffi 
cult  and  embarrassing.  A  proper  sense  of  justice  induced 
a  suspension  by  the  government,  in  1768,  in  the  issuing 
of  all  patents  of  lands  northward  of  Crown  point,  which 
were  claimed  under  any  French  grants.1 

These  collisions  again  threw  a  cloud  over  the  progress 
and  prosperity  of  the  country.  Many  of  the  French  claims 
were  ultimately  repudiated  by  England,  on  account  of 
forfeitures  through  the  neglect  of  the  conditions  upon 
which  they  were  dependent ;  others  were  compromised 
by  grants  to  the  claimants  of  land  in  Canada  of  an  equiva 
lent  value.2  England  exhibited  towards  the  claimants  of 
these  seigniories  great  tenderness  and  liberality,  in  not 
assuming  the  obvious  position,  that  the  French  held  the 
shores  of  Lake  Champlain  alone  by  an  usurped  occupation, 
which  could  neither  create  nor  convey  any  rights.  These 
questions  agitated  and  disturbed  the  colonies  for  several 
years,  and  led  in  the  home  governmejit  to  anxious  and 
protracted  discussions. 

The  multiplicity  and  extent  of  the  grants,  issued  under 
the  ordinance  of  1763,  the  existence  of  these  conflicting 
claims,  and  the  repugnance  of  many  of  the  patentees  to  the 
occupation  themselves  of  their  land,  combined  to  depress 
their  value  and  throw  them  into  market. 

William  Gilliland,  a  native  of  Ireland,  was,  at  that  pe 
riod,  a  merchant,  residing  in  the  city  of  New  York.  En 
dowed  with  great  force  of  character  and  enterprise,  and 
possessing  expanded  and  sagacious  views,  he  became  con 
spicuous  in  the  early  settlement  of  Clinton  and  Essex 
counties,  and  held,  for  many  years,  a  controlling  ascend 
ancy  in  the  aifairs  of  that  region.  Patents  of  rich  and 


lDoc.,  VITI,  115.  In  the  year  1809,  the  validity  of  these  ancient  French 
grants  was  adjudicated  upon  by  the  supreme  court  of  New  York,  with  a 
result  adverse  to  the  claim  of  title  under  them. — Johnson's  Reports,  iv,  163. 

3  Doc.,  vm,  577. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  123 

extensive  manors  had  been,  anterior  to  this  time,  granted 
in  the  southern  sections  of  the  province.  Actuated  by  the 
desire  of  forming  to  himself  a  similar  estate,  the  mind  of 
Mr.  Gilliland  was  attracted  to  the  valley  of  Champlain, 
then  surrounded  by  the  circumstances  to  which  allusion 
has  been  made.  He  employed,  with  this  view,  competent 
agents  to  explore  the  west  shores  of  the  lake.  The  larger 
proportion  of  the  territory  upon  the  eastern  side,  had  al 
ready  been  granted  and  appropriated.  He  decided  upon 
the  result  of  this  survey,  to  locate  his  proposed  domain 
near  the  Boquet  river,  expanding  southerly  along  the  bor 
ders  of  the  lake  towards  Split  rock. 

The  remarkable  beauty  and  fertility  of  the  tract  still 
vindicate  the  wisdom  and  tact  of  his  selection.  His  first 
location  was  a  section  of  two  thousand  acres,  under  a  grant 
to  James  Field.  This  was  situated  immediately  south  of 
the  Boquet,1  and  is  now  designated  as  Field's  patent. 
Mr.  Gilliland  subsequently  purchased  seven  additional 
claims,  which  embraced  in  the  aggregate  more  than  fifteen 
thousand  acres  of  land.  The  territory  he  comprehended 
and  located  under  these  grants,  commencing  a  half  mile 
south  of  the  river,  extended  to  Judd's  patent,  which  seems 
to  have  been  previously  surveyed,  near  Split  rock,  present 
ing  on  the  shore  of  the  lake  a  line  of  about  six  miles,  and 
spreading  three  or  four  miles  into  the  interior.  The  pur 
chase  of  these  rights  was  effected  in  1764,  and  the  grants 
issued  and  the  land  surveyed  the  ensuing  year.  Impressed 
by  the  natural  predilections  of  an  European  to  manorial 
institutions,  his  policy  seems  to  have  designed  the  creation 
of  an  estate  in  fee  in  himself,  with  subordinate  estates  to  a 
tenantry  held  at  annual  leases.  The  consummation  of  a 


1  The  origin  of  the  name  of  this  river  is  uncertain.  Tradition  says  it  was 
thus  named  by  Mr.  Gilliland,  from  the  profusion  of  flowers  on  its  banks. 
It  is  also  supposed  to  have  been  derived  from  Gen.  Boquet,  an  English  officer 
of  considerable  distinction.  An  ingenious  friend  has  suggested  that  it  may 
have  been  derived  from  the  French  word  baquet,  trough,  a  term  pecu 
liarly  descriptive  of  the  form  of  the  river,  between  the  falls  and  its  debouch 
into  the  lake. 


124  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

scheme  of  this  character,  applied  to  a  wild  and  uncultivated 
region,  demanded  an  exercise  of  extreme  skill  and  sagacity. 

The  inducements  presented  by  Gilliland  to  immigration, 
were  conceived  in  the  most  liberal  and  enlarged  spirit. 
His  arrangements  for  organizing  the  proposed  colony 
manifested  every  regard  for  its  comfort  and  success.  He 
seems  to  have  secured  a  body  of  intelligent  and  indus 
trious  emigrants,  formed  principally  of  mechanics  and 
laborers,  and  adapted  to  endure  the  toil  and  privation  of 
a  pioneer  life.  Amply  provided  with  implements,  tools, 
provisions,  and  all  other  requisites,  he  left  New  York  with 
his  colony  on  the  10th  of  May,  1765,  and  occupied  ten 
days  in  the  voyage  from  that  city  to  Albany.  Deciding, 
at  this  place,  to  convey  a  part  of  the  immigrants  and  the 
material  by  water,  to  Fort  Edward,  he  was  compelled  to 
purchase  bateaux  at  Schenectady,  and  to  transport  them 
overland  to  Albany.  In  the  laborious  toil  of  eight  days, 
contending  with  the  strong  current  and  dangerous  rapids 
of  the  Hudson,  he  reached  Fort  Edward  in  safety.  A  part 
of  the  train  had  proceeded  by  land,  driving  with  them  a 
herd  of  forty-one  head  of  neat  cattle,  destined  for  the 
future  use  of  the  colony.  The  oxen  were  employed  in  the 
transportation  of  the  boats  and  effects  to  Lake  George. 
Three  days  were  exhausted  in  this  operation,  when  the 
little  fleet  was  again  launched,  and  wafted  by  sails  to 
Ticouderoga.  Two  days  more  of  transportation  by  land, 
brought  them  to  the  waters  of  Lake  Champlain.  One 
bateau  was  freighted  with  lumber  at  Ticonderoga,  sup 
plied  by  saw  mills  which  were  erected  during  the  French 
occupation.  Again  embarking,  they  arrived  on  the  shores 
of  the  Boquet  on  the  8th  day  of  June,  having  occupied  in 
their  journey  thirty  days  of  arduous  and  incessant  labor. 

After  the  interval  of  two  days,  devoted  to  rest  and  pre 
liminary  arrangement,  they  proceeded  up  the  river  to  the 
point  of  their  ultimate  destination,  arid  formed  their  encamp 
ment  upon  an  island  at  the  base  of  the  falls,  which,  from 
that  circumstance,  still  bears  the  name  of  Camp  island. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  125 

With  promptness  and  energy  operations  were  at  once 
commenced.  A  road  was  opened  to  the  falls,  and  by  the 
15th  of  that  month  ground  had  been  cleared,  timber  pre 
pared,  and  a  house,  forty-four  feet  by  twenty-two,  partly 
erected.  This  edifice  was  probably  the  first  dwelling  built 
by  civilized  man,  on  the  western  shore  of  Champlain,  be 
tween  Crown  point  and  Canada.  The  cattle  had  been 
driven  to  Crown  point,  and  there  made  to  swim  the  narrow 
passage.  Proceeding  to  a  point  opposite  to  Split  rock,  they 
were  ferried  over,  and  from  thence  driven  through  the 
woods  to  Gilliland's  settlement.  A  part  of  them  were 
confined  and  fed  upon  the  leaves  of  the  trees,  but  the 
largest  portion  were  turned  loose  to  the  unlimited  range 
of  the  forest. 

The  first  great  necessity  secured,  by  the  erection  of  a 
dwelling,  the  colonists  prepared  for  general  improvement. 
The  forest  was  opened,  the  vicinity  explored,  timber  pre 
pared  for  a  saw-mill,  which  was  erected  in  the  autumn,  at 
the  lower  part  of  the  falls,  and  supplied  with  power  by  a 
wing  dam,  which  was  projected  into  the  current,  turning 
the  water  into  a  flume  that  conducted  it  to  the  mill. 

Game  was  abundant  in  the  woods ;  the  most  delicious 
salmon  thronged  the  stream,  that  at  most  laved  their 
threshold,  and  the  beaver  meadows  yielded  them  sufficient 
hay  for  the  approaching  winter.1  The  spontaneous  pro 
ducts  of  a  bounteous  land  were  thus  within  the  reach  of 
their  industry  and  energies.  Meanwhile,  as  these  efforts 
were  in  progress,  Mr.  Gilliland  had  visited  Quebec,  and 
returned  laded  with  all  the  other  necessaries  to  secure 
the  comfort  and  safety  of  his  people. 


1  Another  resort  to  procure  a  supply  of  fodder  was  of  infinite  value  to  the* 
first  settlers,  and  is  still  not  unimportant  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  country. 
This  was  the  marshes,  created  by  the  spring  overflowings  of  the  low  allu- 
vials  upon  the  shores  of  the  lake.  The  hay  cut  upon  these  marshes  is  very 
inferior  to  that  cured  from  cultivated  grasses,  or  even  the  product  of  the- 
beaver  meadows.  The  growth  upon  the  natural  meadows  is  usually  a 
coarse  and  harsh  grass,  intermingled  with  rushes,  brakes  and  ferns.  On 
more  elevated  ground,  a  better  quality  of  hay  is  produced. 


126  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

"  During  his  absence  he  had  examined  the  region  with 
a  vigilant  eye,  upon  both  shores  of  the  lake;  had  ascended 
the  navigable  streams,  sounded  their  depths,  and  explored 
their  banks.  Twelve  grants  had  now  been  located  by  Mr. 
Gilliland.  Eight  of  these  were  situated  within  the  present 
towns  of  Essex  and  Willsboro';  two  at  Westport,  and  two 
at  Salmon  river,  now  in  Clinton  county.  A  tier  of  lots, 
intended  for  farms,  was  surveyed  and  numbered  in  this 
year  (1765),  ranging  along  the  shore  of  the  lake,  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Boquet  to  Judd's  patent.  Many  of  these  lots 
were  immediately  selected  by  the  settlers,  but  on  account  of 
the  advanced  season  were  not  occupied  until  the  succeed 
ing  spring."  The  settlement  upon  the  Boquet  was  named 
Milltown.  Mr.  Gilliland,  in  November,  left  it,  with  his 
other  interests  upon  Lake  Champlain,  in  charge  of  a  kins 
man,  whom  he  dignified  with  the  European  title  of 
steward.  He  passed  the  winter  himself  in  New  York, 
engaged  in  preparations  for  the  removal  of  his  family  to 
his  new  estate.  The  cattle  which  had  been  turned  out 
upon  their  arrival,  were  recovered  with  great  difficulty  in 
the  autumn,  and  in  a  condition  almost  as  wild  as  the  na 
tive  denizens  of  the  forests.  The  first  winter  of  these  pio 
neers  in  the  wilds  of  New  York,  was  passed  without 
suffering  or  remarkable  incident.  Their  time  was  occu 
pied  in  attending  the  cattle,  cutting  and  drawing  saw- 
logs  to  the  mill,  and  in  the  preparation  of  timber  for 
the  construction  of  their  buildings.  In  January,  1766, 
their  hay  was  drawn  upon  the  ice,  from  a  beaver  meadow, 
two  miles  south-west  from  Split  rock  (now  Whal  Ion's  bay), 
to  Milltown. 

At  the  approach  of  spring,  all  the  efforts  of  the  settlers 
were  enlisted  in  constructing  their  dwellings,  and  making 
other  improvements  upon  their  newly  acquired  farms. 
The  first  house  upon  these  lots  is  supposed  to  have  been 
erected  for  Robert  McAuley,  April  14th,  1766,  on  the 
north  bank  of  Bachelor's  creek.  Others  rapidly  succeeded, 
until  the  whole  space  between  the  Boquet  and  Split 
rock  was  studded  by  the  neat  cabins  of  the  settlers. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  127 

DuriDg  the  spring,  the  provisions  of  the  colony  began  to 
fail,  but  their  wants  were  promptly  supplied  from  the 
stores  of  the  garrison  at  Crown  point. 

In  June,  Mr.  Gilliland  returned  with  his  family,  and  bear 
ing  supplies  for  another  year.  "  His  journey  had  been 
difficult  and  disastrous.  In  passing  the  rapids  of  the  Hud 
son,  near  Stillwater,  one  of  the  bateaux  had  capsized, 
precipitating  part  of  his  family  into  the  rushing  torrent. 
One  of  his  daughters  was  lost.  They  resumed  their  voy 
age  in  fearful  forebodings,  sometimes  drawing  their  boats 
on  land,  and  again  launching  them  upon  the  water.  Worn 
with  grief  and  toil,  they  arrived  at  length  at  Milltown,  and 
were  soon  settled  in  their  wilderness  home  on  the  banks  of 
the  Boquet."  l 

By  a  royal  ordinance  of  October  7th,  1763,  the  parallel 
of  forty-five  degrees  north  latitude  had  been  established  as 
the  boundary  between  New  York  and  the  province  of 
Quebec.  This  ideal  line,  was,  however,  indefinite  and 
controverted.  In  September,  1767,  Governor  Moore,  of 
New  York,  and  Carlton,  of  Quebec,  caused  the  line  to  be 
fixed  by  careful  astronomical  observations.  The  same 
observations  established  the  latitude  of  Crown  point  at 
forty-four  degrees  one  minute  twenty  seconds.  On  this 
occasion,  the  munificent  hospitalities  of  Milltown  were 
extended  to  the  royal  commissioners  and  their  suite. 

The  return  of  the  proprietor  had  infused  a  fresh  spirit, 
and  imparted  a  new  and  vigorous  impulse  to  the  little 
commonwealth.  The  colony  continued  to  advance  in 
improvement  and  prosperity.  The  saw-mill  was  in  suc 
cessful  operation,  supplying  all  the  demand  for  lumber. 
A  smithery  had  been  erected.  Various  seeds  had  been 
sown  to  supply  culinary  vegetables.  The  government, 
political  as  well  as  moral,  of  the  community,  was  in  the 
exclusive  guidance  and  control  of  the  proprietor.  Its  ad 
ministration  seems  to  have  been  eminently  patriarchal. 
The  appointment  of  justice  of  peace,  which  had  been 

1 0.  F.  Sheldon. 


128  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

conferred  on  Mr.  Gilliland,  in  his  primitive  jurisdiction, 
endowed  him  with  a  plenitude  of  powers,  that  essentially 
embraced  all  the  functions  of  counsellor,  judge,  and  chan 
cellor.  The  ample  limits  of  Albany  county,  at  that  period, 
embraced  the  whole  region  of  northern  New  York. 

During  the  winter  of  1767,  Gilliland  made  an  accurate 
and  minute  survey  upon  the  ice  of  the  lake  shore,  along 
the  entire  front  of  his  locations,  and  named  the  prominent 
topographical  features.  In  the  same  season  the  first  horse 
introduced  into  the  settlement,  was  brought  out  upon  the 
ice,  for  Mr.  Gilliland,  from  Canada. 

William  McAuley,  a  relative,  and  one  of  the  prominent 
and  most  efficient  coadjutors  of  Gilliland,  occupied  as  a 
farm,  the  site  of  the  present  beautiful  village  of  Essex. 
James  Gilliland,  a  brother  of  the  proprietor,  and  in  after 
years  a  distinguished  officer  in  the  American  army,  settled 
on  a  lot  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Boquet.  This  stream, 
at  the  time  of  Gilliland's  colonization  of  its  shores,  and 
for  a  subsequent  period  of  several  years,  was  a  conspicu 
ous  landmark  in  the  country. 

The  site  and  the  water-power  of  the  village  of  Port 
Henry  was  granted  in  1766,  to  Benjamin  Porter,  a  miller. 
It  is  supposed  a  milling  establishment  was  erected  by  him 
and  abandoned  or  destroyed  before  or  during  the  revolu 
tion.  When  tranquillity  was  restored  after  that  event,  he 
returned  to  the  scene,  and  in  connection  with  a  Robert 
Lewis,  of  Albany,  rebuilt  the  mills.  The  ruins  of  these 
structures  existed  until  a  recent  date. 

No  prominent  event  distinguished  the  annals  of  these 
settlements  for  several  years.  Their  agricultural  and 
industrial  improvement  continued  to  advance,  the  colony 
gradually  increased  in  population,  flourishing  mills  were 
erected,  and  other  conveniences  and  refinements  of  civil 
ized  life  were  introduced.  Schools  were  early  established. 
The  position  of  the  first  school-house  is  still  pointed  out. 
Occasional  religious  services  were  enjoyed.  I  cannot 
ascertain  the  existence,  in  the  early  epoch  of  the  settle 
ment,  of  the  stated  administration  of  religious  ordinances, 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  129 

although  a  clergyman,  named  George  Henry,  accompanied 
Mr.  Gilliland  with  the  first  body  of  emigrants. 

Albany  county  was  divided  in  1772,  and  the  northern 
section,  embracing  both  sides  of  Lake  Champlain,  was 
organized  into  a  new  county,  which  received  the  name  of 
Charlotte. 

An  event  occurred  in  1775,  which  forcibly  illustrates 
the  tendency  at  that  time  of  public  sentiment  to  democra 
tic  institutions,  and  exhibits  its  bias  towards  the  doctrines 
of  self-government.  This  settlement,  it  has  been  stated, 
was  in  the  ideal  limits  of  Charlotte  county,  but  it  possessed 
no  tangible  and  practical  political  or  social  organization. 
It  was  too  remote  to  be  reached  by  the  protecting  arm  of 
government,  and  too  unimportant  to  receive  any  specific 
legislative  action.  The  presence  and  ascendancy  of  some 
civil  or  political  power  were  demanded,  in  the  changed 
condition  and  increased  population  of  the  colony,  by  their 
common  interests,  and  for  their  mutual  protection  and 
safety.  Under  these  circumstances  they  convened  on  the 
17th  of  March,  1775,1  by  common  approbation,  an  assem- 
hly  of  the  colonists,  and  constituted  themselves  in  effect, 
into  a  pure  democracy.  At  this  popular  convention  it  was 
determined  to  institute  for  many  practical  purposes  a  local 
government.  A  system  of  police  and  social  regulations 
was  matured,  formally  adopted,  and  ratified  by  the  indivi 
dual  signatures  of  the  citizens.  It  was  made  imperative 
upon  all,  and  each  was  pledged  to  abide  by  its  provisions 
""  by  every  tie  of  honor  and  honesty." 2  In  contemplating 
in  its  humble  aspect  this  singular  and  most  interesting 
incident,  the  mind  instinctively  reverts  to  the  cabin  of  the 

1  They  were  chiefly  Irish,  and  St.  Patrick's  festival  was  no  doubt  design 
edly  adopted  for  the  occasion. 

2  But  ten  years  had  elapsed  since  the  arrival  of  Gilliland  with  his  colony, 
and  still  only  two  signatures  are  attached  to  this  document  of  all  those 
who  accompanied  him  as  original  settlers.     And  thus  it  is  almost  uniformly 
in  the  history  of  our  country.     The  pioneer  opens  the  wilderness,  and  levels 
the  highway  for  the  advance  of  civilization ;  but  as  its  march  approaches,  he 
recedes  and  passes  onward  to  new  scenes  of  toil  and  to  incur  fresh  priva 
tions. —  Pioneer  History  of  Ghamplain  Valley. 

9 


130  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

May-Flower,  where  a  similar  scene  was  enacted,  under  the 
guidance  of  the  same  spirit  and  resting  upon  the  same 
eternal  principles.  The  officers  of  the  association,  thus 
constituted,  comprised  a  moderator,  two  superintendents  of 
roads  and  bridges,  three  appraisers  of  damages,  and  a  town 
clerk.  William  Gilliland  was  elected  the  first  moderator, 
and  Jotham  Gardner  the  town  clerk.  The  first  act  of  this 
primitive  organization  was  an  ordinance,  authorizing  the 
construction  of  a  bridge,  by  a  tax  to  be  levied  and  paid  in 
labor,  assessed  on  the  basis  of  property. 

A  project  is  believed  to  have  been  agitated  at  this  period, 
which,  in  its  success,  would  have  formed  a  prominent  feature 
in  the  annals  of  this  colony,  and  been  an  event  of  grave 
interest  and  importance  in  the  political  history  of  the 
country.  A  scheme,  in  which  Gilliland  and  the  elder 
Skeene,  of  a  family  which  attained  subsequent  revolu 
tionary  notoriety,  were  the  prominent  agitators,  was  dis 
cussed  and  essentially  matured,  which  contemplated  the 
organization  of  a  new  province.  Its  imagined  limits  were 
to  extend  from  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Connecticut, 
resting  at  the  north  on  the  Canada  boundary  and  with  an 
undefined  line  at  the  south.  In  this  project  Skeene  was  to 
receive  the  appointment  of  governor  of  the  contemplated 
province,  and  Crown  point  was  to  be  constituted  the  capital. 

I  have  yielded  my  own  convictions  of  the  reality  of  this 
scheme,  not  alone  upon  the  traditions  on  the  subject,  and 
the  assurances  of  those  who  profess  to  have  seen  and  pos 
sessed  documents  which  elucidated  the  whole  subject,  but 
upon  other  forcible  considerations.1  Amherst,  it  was 

1  Mr.  Gilliland,  the  younger,  who,  at  the  commencement  of  the  revolution, 
was  a  schoolboy  of  fourteen,  and  died  in  Pittsburgh,  in  the  year  1847,  as 
sured  Mr.  Sheldon  that  this  project  was  a  frequent  and  familiar  theme  of 
conversation  by  his  father.  That  he  had  often  himself  read  the  correspond 
ence  between  his  father  and  Skeene,  on  the  subject,  and  that  he  had  the 
letters  of  Skeene  still  in  his  possession.  Mr.  G.,  who  was  a  gentleman  of 
great  intelligence,  engaged  to  find  and  submit  them  to  Mr.  Sheldon,  but 
he  died  before  the  time  fixed  for  the  purpose  arrived.  With  the  permission 
and  aid  of  the  Messrs.  Gilliland,  his  sons,  who  reside  at  Salmon  river,  on  a 
part  of  the  original  estate,  I  have  carefully  examined  the  family  papers,  but 
can  discover  no  trace  of  this  document. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY. 

asserted  by  Golden,  contemplated  the  erection  of  a  sepa 
rate  government  at  Crown  point,  immediately  after  its 
reduction.1 

The  aspect  at  that  epoch  of  the  controversy,  relative  to 
the  New  Hampshire  grants,  rendered  such  an  occurrence 
exceedingly  probable.  Cotemporary  annals-  appear  to 
recognize  the  existence  of  some  project  of  an  analogous 
character  and  purpose.2  Skeene,  it  is  known,  at  this  pe 
riod,  visited  England  on  some  important  political  mission, 
and  was  on  his  return  to  America  on  the  verge  of  the 
revolution,  bearing,  as  he  alleged,  the  appointment  of 
governor  of  Crown  point  and  Ticonderoga.3  In  this 
designation  of  the  limits  and  title  of  his  government,  is  it 
not  probable  that  he  merely  referred  to  these  fortresses  as 
prominent  points  embraced  within  his  jurisdiction  ?  Crown 
point,  it  is  asserted,  was  the  designed  capital  of  the  pro 
jected  province.  This  idea  strengthens  at  once  the  opinion 
I  have  attempted  to  enforce,  of  the  prominence  and  import 
ance  of  Crown  point  at  that  period,  and  attaches  form  and 
coherence  to  the  existence  of  this  scheme.  Skeene  was 
then  possessed  of  a  large  landed  estate,  not  only  at 
Skeenesboro',  but  elsewhere  in  the  environs  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain.  He  held  a  tract  in  Essex  county,  still  designated 
Skeene's  patent. 

The  theory,  that  the  erection  of  a  new  province  was 
contemplated  at  this  period,  seems  to  receive  a  degree  of 
strength  from  the  proceedings  of  a  convention  held  at 
Westminster,  Vermont,  in  April,  1775,  which  resolved  to 
petition  the  royal  government  "  that  they  might  be  taken 
out  of  so  oppressive  a  jurisdiction  [that  of  IsTew  York], 
and  either  annexed  to  some  other  government  or  erected 
and  incorporated  into  a  new  one."  The  commissioners 
of  Vermont,  in  their  appeal  to  congress  in  1779,  refer  to 
the  same  measure,  and  affirm  their  probable  ability  to 
prove  the  creation  of  this  new  province,  and  that  Governor 

1Doc.,  vii,  558 ;  Skeene  to  Pownall,  Doc.,  vn,  515. 

2  Williams' 's  History  of  Vermont.    Haskins's  do. 

3  Skeene's  Letter  to  Hawley,  March  16,  1775. 


132  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Skeene  had  been  appointed  to  preside  over  the  same.  "  By 
the  accomplishment  of  this  design  might  have  involved 
the  most  momentous  and  sinister  political  results,  at  that 
peculiar  epoch,  when  the  vehement  contest  between  New 
York  and  Vermont  had  acquired  its  deepest  rancor  and 
excitement.  It  is  not  probable,  had  that  event  occurred, 
whatever  may  have  been  the  political  consequences,  that 
Northern  New  York  would  now  exhibit  a  vast  expanse 
of  uncultivated  and  primeval  wilderness. 

An  occurrence  of  deep  import  suddenly  dissolved  all 
these  visions  of  political  plans  and  speculations,  and  for 
years  arrested  the  progress  of  this  miniature  republic,  and 
dispersed  widely  its  population.  A  blow  was  struck, 
within  the  present  limits  of  Essex  county,  which  vibrated 
not  only  through  the  wide  colonies,  but  was  felt  within 
the  palace  walls  of  St.  James. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

THE  EEVOLUTION,  1775-1776. 

Haldimand,  the  commandant  of  Crown  point  and  Ti- 
conderoga,  announced  to  the  British  government,  in  1773, 
that  the  fort  at  Crown  point  was  "  entirely  destroyed,'7 
and  that  at  Ticonderoga,  in  a  "ruinous  condition,"  and 
"  that  both  could  not  cover  fifty  men  in  winter."  The 
appeal  to  arms,  which  had  sounded  from  the  plains  of 
Lexington,  in  April,  1775,  seems  to  have  suggested  simul 
taneously  to  patriotic  individuals  in  various  sections  of 
the  colonies  the  idea  of  seizing  these  important  fortresses, 
while  in  their  dilapidated  and  exposed  condition.  Mem 
bers  of  the  provincial  legislature  of  Connecticut,  embrac 
ing  the  names  of  David  Wooster  and  Silas  Deane,  and 
with  its  secret  connivance,  but  without  any  public  recog 
nition  by  that  body,  raised  a  fund  to  effect  this  object, 
and  appointed  a  private  committee  to  proceed  to  the 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  133 

scene,  and  to  pursue  measures  calculated  to  secure  the 
execution  of  the 'plan. 

It  was  known  that  a  large  number  of  cannon,  with  an 
immense  amount  of  every  military  munition,  had  been 
accumulated  at  these  posts.  The  seizure  of  these  mate 
rials  would  supply  a  deficiency  severely  felt  in  the  Ameri 
can  army,  already  assembled  before  Boston.  This  motive, 
the  obvious  policy  of  occupying  the  stronghold  which 
commanded  the  communications  of  Lake  Champlain  and 
the  desire  of  achieving  a  decided  success,  which  would 
tend  to  strengthen  and  animate  the  popular  enthusiasm, 
stimulated  this  movement.  Edward  Mott  and  Noah 
Phelps,  who  were  embraced  in  this  committee,  and  were 
intrusted  by  the  projectors  of  this  daring  scheme  with  the 
arrangements  for  its  execution,  proceeded  with  a  small 
body  of  men,  raised  in  Connecticut,  to  Berkshire  county, 
Massachusetts.  At  Pittsfield,  Colonel  Easton  and  John 
Brown  embarked  with  ardor  in  the  enterprise.  The 
expedition  numbered  about  forty  volunteers  when  it 
reached  Bennington,  and  here  the  zealous  spirit  and 
powerful  influence  of  Ethan  Allen  was  enlisted. 

On  the  7th  of  May,  1775,  an  intrepid  band  of  two 
hundred  and  seventy  men,  all  of  whom  but  forty-six  were 
Green  mountain  boys,  had  collected  at  Castleton,  and  were 
devoted  to  this  bold  design.  While  they  were  organizing 
for  the  advance,  Benedict  Arnold,  bearing  a  commission 
from  the  committee  of  safety  in  Massachusetts — but  dated 
the  3d  of  May,  the  day  on  which  the  expedition  reached 
Bennington  —  and  clothed  with  plenary  powers  to  accom 
plish  the  same  purpose,  appeared  upon  the  scene,  and 
claiming  precedence  in  the  command  of  the  expedition. 
The  contest  which  ensued,  and  which  threatened  to  prove 
fatal  to  the  enterprise,  was  terminated  by  the  troops 
refusing  to  march  unless  under  the  guidance  of  Allen, 
their  tried  and  cherished  leader.  Arnold  was  constrained 
to  yield,  and  joined  the  force  as  aid  to  the  commander. 
Noah  Phelps,  a  name  that  national  gratitude  should  com 
memorate,  assuming  the  garb  and  deportment  of  a  settler, 


134  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

* 

boldly  entered  the  fort  at  Ticonderoga,  and  with  the  pre 
tence  of  seeking  a  barber,  wandered  unsuspected  about 
the  works,  and  thus  obtained  complete  knowledge  of  their 
condition  and  the  strength  of  the  garrison. 

Captain  Herrick  had  been  ordered  to  ] proceed  to  Skeenes- 
boro',  and  having  captured  the  youngor  Skeene,  with  the 
materials  collected  at  that  place  to  join  Allen  at  Ticon 
deroga  ;  Douglas  was  sent  to  Panton,  to  secure  all  the  boats 
that  could  be  discovered  and  return  to  Shoreham.  Upon 
his  success  chiefly  depended  the  means  of  transporting 
the  troops.  Instructions  were  communicated  to  Remember 
Baker,  always  the  active  and  unfaltering  coadjutor  of 
Allen  to  cooperate  from  his  position  at  Otter  creek.  Major 
Beach  had  been  dispatched  to  Rutland  and  the  adjacent 
towns  in  order  to  gather  volunteers,  and  accomplished  on 
foot,  tradition  asserts,  a  circuit  of  sixty  miles  in  twenty-four 
hours.1  When  the  agents  of  Connecticut  reached  Sheffield, 
they  communicated  with  the  Albany  committee  on  the 
subject  of  their  expedition,  by  messengers;  but  that  body 
refused  to  interfere,  without  instructions  from  the  New 
York  committee,  which  although  applied  to,  appear  to  have 
given  no  response.2  The  force  under  Allen  advanced  in 
profound  secrecy  and  silence  to  the  eastern  shore  of  the 
lake,  in  the  town  of  Shoreham.3 

Sentinels  and  pickets  were  placed  on  every  avenue  by 
which  intelligence  of  the  movement  might  be  communi 
cated  to  Ticonderoga.  The  party  lay  in  concealment 
nearly  a  whole  day  and  night,  in  what  is  now  known  as 
Hand's  cove,  a  short  distance  north  of  Larrabee's  point. 
They  were  disappointed  in  crossing  immediately  as  was 

1  Goodhue's  SJwreham.        a  Hall's  Vermont. 

3  A  number  of  the  inhabitants  of  Shoreham  engaged  in  the  enterprise, 
and  from  them  and  local  tradition,  the  Rev.  Josiah  T.  Goodhue,  long 
the  pastor  of  the  Congregational  church  in  that  town,  has  collected  and 
preserved  many  incidents  connected  with  the  capture  of  Ticonderoga  of 
great  interest  and  value.  In  the  frequent  discrepancies  which  obscure  the 
history  of  this  event,  I  have  deferred  to  him  as  the  most  credible  and  authen 
tic  authority.  1  am  indebted  to  Hon.  A.  C.  Hand,  a  native  of  Shoreham, 
for  a  knowledge  of  Mr  Goodhue's  work,  and  for  several  important  facts. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  135 

intended,  by  the  delay  in  the  arrival  of  the  necessary 
boats.  A  large  oared  boat  owned  by  Skeene,  which  was 
lying  at  anchor  in  the  lake  near  Crown  point,  was  seized 
by  a  stratagem ;  Douglass  brought  a  scow  from  Orwell, 
and  with  these  and  a  few  small  boats  which  they  had 
secured  in  the  vicinity,  Allen  determined  to  attempt  the 
passage.  Eighty-three  men  were  embarked  in  the  night 
of  the  10th,  at  Hand's  point,  and  landed  beneath  the  pro 
tection  of  a  cluster  of  willows  on  Willow's  point,  about 
one  mile  north  of  the  fort.  The  dawn  began  to  appear, 
and  as  immediate  action  could  alone  command  success, 
it  was  decided  to  advance  to  the  assault  without  awaiting 
the  return  of  the  boats  with  the  remainder  of  the  party. 
A  patriotic  farmer  of  Shoreham  had  supplied  Allen  with 
a  guide  in  the  person  of  his  son,  an  active  and  intelligent 
lad  of  fifteen,  who  had  gained  a  perfect  knowledge  of 
the  works,  in  his  pastimes  among  the  boys  connected  with 
the  garrison. 

Allen,  when  the  little  band  were  formed,  addressed 
them  in  a  low  and  earnest  voice,  but  in  the  rude  and  forci 
ble  eloquence  by  which  he  was  wont  at  all  times  to  control 
his  associates.  He  spoke  of  their  antecedents ;  of  their 
widely  extended  reputation  for  valor  which  had  led  to 
their  selection  to  accomplish  an  important  undertaking : 
he  represented  the  desperate  attempt  as  only  adapted  to 
the  bravest  of  men ;  that  he  purposed  to  conduct  them 
through  the  gate ;  that  they  must  that  morning  quit  their 
pretensions  to  heroism  or  in  a  few  minutes  capture  the 
fortress ;  he  would  urge  no  one  to  follow  him  contrary  to 
his  own  will,  but,  he  exclaimed,  "  you  that  will  undertake 
voluntarily,  poise  your  firelock."  Instantly  every  musket 
was  elevated.  Again,  the  harmony  of  the  expedition  was 
imperiled  in  the  renewed  assertion  by  Arnold,  of  a  claim 
to  precedence  in  leading  the  assault.  It  was,  at  length, 
arranged  that  the  two  leaders  should  advance  together, 
Allen  on  the  right,  guided  by  young  Nathan  Beaman,  the 
Shoreham  boy ;  with  Allen  and  Arnold  at  the  head,  the 
column  marched  rapidly  and  in  silence  to  the  sallyport. 


136  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

The  sentinel  stationed  there  snapped  his  gun  against  the 
hreast  of  Allen,  and  retreated  through  the  covered  way y 
closely  followed  by  the  Americans,  who,  uttering  a  terrific 
shout,  formed  upon  the  parade  in  two  lines,  each  facing 
the  barracks.  The  garrison  were  awakened  from  their 
sleep  by  the  wild  clamor,  and  Captain  De  La  Place,  sud 
denly  aroused,  burst  from  his  quarters  in  his  night  apparel, 
to  be  confronted  on  the  corridor  by  Allen  ;  and  in  reply  to 
the  summons  to  surrender,  asked  by  what  authority  it  was 
demanded.  Allen  thundered  forth  the  immortal  response, 
in  words  then  strange  and  ominous,  but  now  engraven  in 
our  national  annals :  "  In  the  name  of  the  Great  Jehovah 
and  the  Continental  congress."  The  fortress,  the  garrison, 
and  the  vast  munitions  were  won  without  the  effusion  of 
a  single  drop  of  blood.  A  part  of  these  trophies  was  forty- 
eight  prisoners,  one  hundred  and  twenty-four  pieces  of 
cannon,  a  number  of  mortars  and  howitzers,  a  large 
amount  of  ammunition  of  every  kind,  and  extensive  and 
invaluable  materials  for  ship  building. 

Warner,  who  had  succeeded  in  crossing  with  the  rear 
detachment,  arrived  at  the  fort  soon  after  the  surrender. 
He  was,  without  delay,  dispatched  with  a  hundred  men  to 
seize  Crown  point.  A  heavy  wind  prevented  the  immedi 
ate  movement,  but  the  next  day  he  was  able  to  advance  ; 
captured  without  resistance  the  fort  and  its  small  garrison 
of  twelve  men  with  its  entire  armament.  Herrick  had 
been  equally  successful,  and  soon  after  joined  Allen,  hav 
ing  captured  the  works  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  Skeene 
with  all  his  forces,  and  made  the  yet  more  important  acqui 
sition  of  several  boats  and  a  schooner,  which  had  been  used 
as  a  regular  trader  between  Skeenesboro'  and  St.  Johns. 
The  triumphant  success  of  this  most  skillfully  concerted 
measure  was  completed,  when  Baker  arrived  with  two  dis 
patch  boats  sent  from  Crown  point  with  intelligence  of  the 
capture  of  Ticonderoga,  which  he  had  intercepted  and 
taken  on  his  passage  from  Otter  creek.  The  military 
material  secured  at  Crown  point  largely  enhanced  the 
spoils  of  Ticonderoga.  Amos  Callander  was  immediately 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  137 

detached  with  a  small  party  to  the  fort  at  the  head  of  Lake 
George.  This  design  was  effected  by  him  without  diffi 
culty,  and  he  soon  after  conducted  all  the  prisoners, 
amounting  to  fifty-two,  to  Hartford,  Connecticut.1 

The  intelligence  of  this  great  and  extraordinary  event 
was  received  by  the  people  in  astonishment,  and  with  trans 
ports  of  enthusiastic  joy.  The  day  after  the  capture  of 
Ticonderoga,  John  Brown  bore  to  Albany  a  letter  from 
Allen,  communicating  the  fact  of  its  surrender  and  express 
ing  an  apprehension,  that  an  attempt  might  be  made  for 
its  recovery,  and  asking  for  assistance  by  reenforcements 
and  supplies.  Again  the  committee  faltered  and  hesitated, 
and  wrote  to  New  York.  That  committee  then  also  re 
fused  to  act,  and  forwarded  the  dispatches  to  the  congress 
in  Philadelphia.  Meanwhile,  Brown,  untiring  in  his  zeal, 
had  also  reached  that  city,  and  was  called  before  Congress 
to  give  an  account  of  the  exciting  transactions  at  Ticou- 
deroga.  That  body  received  his  intelligence  with  the 
highest  secret  exultation,  but  in  the  reserve  due  to  a  deli 
berative  assembly,  and  in  the  undefined  posture  of  affairs, 
hesitated  to  assume  a  distinct  responsibility  for  the  act,  and 
adopted  a  formal  resolution,  recommending  the  committees 
of  New  York  and  Albany  to  "immediately  cause  the 
cannon  and  stores  to  be  removed  from  Ticonderoga  to 
the  south  end  of  Lake  George,"  and  indirectly  advised  a 
"  strong  post  to  be  established  at  that  place."  It  also  re 
commended  "  that  an  exact  inventory  of  them  should  be 
taken,  in  order  that  they  might  be  safely  returned  when 
the  restoration  of  the  former  harmony  between  Great  Bri 
tain  and  the  colonies,  so  ardently  wished  for  by  the  latter, 
should  render  it  prudent  and  consistent  with  the  overrul 
ing  law  of  self-preservation."  In  tumultuary  times,  men 
responsible  for  the  exercise  of  power  are  seldom  abreast 
of  popular  sentiment.  The  post  proposed  to  be  strength 
ened  on  Lake  George  might  afford  partial  protection  to 
Albany,  but  would  leave  the  people  on  the  grants,  who 

1  Goodhue's  Shoreham. 


138  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

had  achieved  the  aggression,  exposed,  unshielded  to  the 
royal  vengeance.  Allen,  with  earnest  indignation,  remon- 
stated  against  the  project.  Connecticut  and  Massachusetts 
gave  utterance  to  equally  emphatic  protests,  and  the  exe 
cution  of  the  purpose  was  happily  abandoned.1 

The  character  of  the  men  who  led  in  the  achievement  of 
an  exploit,  that  exhibits  more  the  similitude  of  romance 
than  the  cooler  form  of  reality,  proves  that  the  scheme  was 
wisely  and  carefully  concerted,  and  that  any  design  de 
liberately  adopted  by  them,  would  have  been  accomplished, 
if  within  the  scope  of  human  power  or  courage.  Each,  in 
his  own  station,  became  eminent  in  the  progress  of  the 
revolution.  Seth  "Warner,  in  the  affections  and  confidence 
of  their  fearless  associates,  was  scarcely  second  to  Allen, 
and  conspicuous  in  every  field  on  which  he  moved,  his 
military  science  and  capacity  was  superior.  Herrick  was 
the  efficient  coadjutor  of  Stark  at  Bennington;  Easton 
was  gallantly  distinguished  in  the  army  of  Montgomery ; 
Baker  died  before  St.  Johns  in  the  same  service;  and 
Brown,  after  a  glorious  career  of  high  distinction,  fell  at 
Stone  Arabia. 

A  few  months  later  an  extreme  public  necessity  was 
disclosed,  that  could  only  be  relieved  by  the  fruits  of 
this  conquest,  and  destined  to  prove  its  infinite  import 
ance.  Washington  had  closely  beleaguered  Boston,  but 
the  progress  of  the  siege  was  retarded  by  the  want  of 
appropriate  cannon.  Henry  Knox,  the  youthful  bookseller 
of  Boston,  the  future  chief  of  artillery  in  the  American 
army,  whose  science  was  to  excite  the  surprise  and  admi 
ration  of  engineers  trained  in  the  schools  of  Europe,  had 
chiefly  constructed  these  works  before  Boston,  by  an 
almost  intuitive  genius.  With  equal  energy  and  skill,  in 
the  depth  of  the  winter  of  1776,  he  traversed  a  wilderness 
of  two  hundred  miles  ;  collected  numerous  teams  of  oxen, 
and  with  a  long  train  of  sleds,  transported  fifty  heavy 
guns  from  Ticonderoga  to  the  camp  of  Washington. 

1  Hall' s  Vermont. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  139 

This  unwonted  procession  was  welcomed  by  an  enthu 
siastic  ovation,  amid  the  joy  and  shouts  of  the  patriot 
army.1 

Arnold  renewed  his  pretension  to  the  supreme  command 
after  the  reduction  of  the  fortresses,  with  his  accustomed 
arrogance  and  dictatorial  spirit.  The  troops  rejected  these 
assumptions,  and  the  Connecticut  committee  interposing, 
conferred  upon  Allen,  by  a  formal  instrument,  temporary 
powers  as  commandant  of  the  army  and  forts.  Arnold 
yielded  to  necessity,  and  acquiesced  in  a  measure  which  was 
ultimately  approved  by  Massachusetts. 

A  small  armed  vessel  was  lying  at  this  time  in  the 
Sorel  river,  near  St.  Johns.  Her  possession  would  secure 
to  the  Americans  the  entire  naval  force  upon  the  lake, 
and  they  determined  to  effect  her  seizure  before  an  alarm 
should  be  excited.  Fifty  men  engaged  by  Arnold  in 
Massachusetts,  and  over  whom  he  exercised  undoubted 
authority,  arrived  oppportunely  at  Ticonderoga.  With 
these  men,  he  manned  the  schooner  captured  at  Skeens- 
boro',  and  on  the  fifth  day  after  the  surrender  of  the  fort, 
sailed  for  St.  Johns.  Allen,  with  another  party  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty  men,  accompanied  him  in  bateaux.  The 
wind  was  propitious  to  the  zeal  and  ambition  of  Arnold, 
and  outsailing  the  flotilla  of  boats,  he  arrived  within  thirty 
miles  of  his  destination,  when  a  calm  prevented  further 
progress,  but  promptly  embarking  thirty-five  men  in  two 
boats,  he  pursued  his  design,  surprised  and  captured  the 
fort  at  St.  Johns,  with  a  sergeant's  guard  of  twelve  men, 
and  seized  the  schooner,  her  crew,  and  two  small  brass 
guns.  Apprized  of  the  near  approach  of  a  large  detach 
ment  of  troops,  he  deemed  it  prudent  to  retreat,  bearing 
with  him  his  prize  and  provisions,  and  four  boats  loaded 
with  stores.  Five  other  bateaux  he  destroyed.  On  his 
return  he  met  Allen  hastening  onward  to  participate  in 
the  perils  and  glory  of  the  enterprise.  Although  Arnold 
represented  to  him  the  cause  of  his  own  retreat,  Allen 

ljohn  Adams's  Diary. 


140  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

persisted  in  advancing,  but  the  presence  of  a  superior 
British  force  with  artillery,  which  had  anticipated  his- 
arrival,  compelled  him  to  reembark. 

History,  in  forming  its  judgment  of  the  character  and 
the  services  of  the  men  who  achieved  these  perilous  and 
daring  exploits,  should  regard  the  fact,  that  they  acted 
under  the  authority  of  no  legitimate  and  recognized  go 
vernment,  but  from  the  impulses  of  individual  enterprise 
and  patriotism ;  that  their  acts  constituted  rebellion,  and 
that  a  failure  would  have  entailed  upon  them  the  retribu 
tions  visited  upon  treason  and  outlawry.  By  a  singular 
coincidence,  the  congress  that  determined  to  raise  an  army 
to  assert  the  civil  immunities  of  the  colonies,  assembled  on 
the  very  day  that  beamed  upon  the  capture  of  these  fort 
resses.  The  reduction  of  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  point, 
opened  to  the  colonies  the  gates  of  Canada. 

The  prescience  of  Allen's  mind,  and  his  practical  sagacity, 
comprehended  at  a  glance  the  magnitude  of  the  conse 
quences  which  might  result  from  the  measure,  and  which 
he  saw  within  the  grasp  of  congress.  In  urging  with 
the  warmest  importunity  and  with  irresistible  reasoning, 
an  immediate  attack  on  Canada,  he  foreshadowed  a  policy, 
which  then  rejected,  was  afterwards  adopted,  when  the 
auspicious  moment  had  passed.  In  a  communication  to 
•congress  on  June  7th,  he  utters  this  vigorous  and  emphatic 
language :  "  I  would  lay  my  life  on  it,  that  with  fifteen  hun 
dred  men  I  could  take  Montreal." 

Ethan  Allen  stands  out  in  bold  prominence  and  origin 
ality  among  the  extraordinary  men,  whose  high  attributes 
of  mind  and  character  were  evolved  from  the  crucible  of 
the  times.  His  own  age,  under  the  prejudices,  of  con 
troversy,  was  too  prone  to  regard  him  as  a  rude  and 
ferocious  adventurer,  inflamed  by  the  mere  animal  im 
pulse  of  courage,  but  without  the  intellectual  qualities  to 
guide  and  elevate  their  purpose*.  The  intellect  that 
could  attain  and  preserve  a  mastery  over  the  minds  and 
hearts  of  such  a  race  as  the  "  men  of  the  Green  moun 
tains,"  and  wield  that  "  fierce  democracie  "  to  his  purpose, 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY, 

possessed  no  ordinary  powers.  At  Castleton,  when  Arnold 
^asserted  the  command,  every  man  shouldered  his  musket, 
;and  prepared  to  return  to  his  home ;  hut  with  Allen,  their 
.leader,  they  knew  no  doubt ;  they  had  no  fear.  It  was 
;no  common  mind  that  enabled  him,  with  kindred  spirits 
•on  one  hand,  to  repress  what  they  considered  the  aggres 
sions  of  New  York  ;  and,  on  the  other,  by  his  keen  diplo 
macy  to  arrest  the  progress  of  the  British  arms..  What- 
•ever  judgment  posterity  may  form  of  the  ambiguous 
events  in  his  subsequent  career,  no  one  will  doubt  the 
energy  of  his  character,  or  distrust  his  love  of  liberty  and 
loyalty  to  his  own  peculiar  people.  Why  should  not  the 
magnanimity  and  patriotism  of  New  York  erect  a  monu 
ment  on  the  cliffs  of  Ticonderoga,  that  would  consecrate 
his  name,  and  be  a  perpetual  memorial  ©f  hi&  great 
exploits  ? 

In  June,  Allen  relinquished  the  command  of  the  posts 
on  Champlain,  to  Colonel  Benjamin  Hinman,  who  occu 
pied  them  with  a  thousand  levies  from  Connecticut. 
Arnold,  still  persisting  in  his  assumption  sr  claimed  the 
command,  but  the  controversy  was  terminated  by  Massa 
chusetts  discharging  him  summarily  from  her  service.1 

Congress  long  deliberated  on  the  policy  of  invading 
Canada,  hesitating  between  the  adoption  of  a  measure,  the^ 
immediate  expediency  of  which  was  obvious,,  and  an 
apprehension  of  its  effect  upon  the  mind  of  the  American 
people;  and  the  influence  an  act,  so  marked  and  aggressive 
in  its  character,  might  exert  upon  the  sentiments  of  their 
advocates  in  England.  Circumstances  were*  auspicious. 
A  large  part  of  the  royal  troops  had  been  withdrawn  from 
the  province  to  strengthen  the  army  in  Boston;  a  few 
feeble  garrisons  alone  occupied  the  forts  and?  prominent 
towns.  Although  the  yoke  that  England  had  imposed' 
upon  the  Canadian  people  had  been  gentle  in  its- pressure, 
it  was  that  of  an  hereditary  enemy,  and  the  Mends  of  the 
contemplated  measures  urged,  that  if  sustained  by  an 

1  Hall's  Vermont. 


142  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

adequate  force  the  masses  would  throw  off  the  hated 
domination.  In  addition  to  this  view,  it  was  believed  that 
England  was  in  no  condition  to  supply  immediate  reen- 
forcements  in  that  direction,  while  the  brevity  of  the  sea 
son  in  these  northern  seas  would  early  suspend  navigation. 
When  at  length  the  purpose  had  been  decided  upon,  an 
army  of  three  thousand  men  was  concentrating  with  all 
possible  celerity  at  Ticonderoga  from  the  provinces  of 
New  England  and  New  York.  General  Schuyler  held  the 
chief  command,  with  Richard  Montgomery  and  I>avid 
Wooster  as  subordinates,  who  wrere  appointed  brigadier- 
generals.  Sir  Guy  Carleton,  the  governor-general  of  Canada, 
soon  became  apprised  of  these  preparations,  and  with  cha 
racteristic  energy  determined  to  arrest  the  advance  of  the 
patriot  army,  by  creating  a  naval  force  competent  to  main 
tain  the  control  of  the  lake.  Montgomery  resolved  to- 
advance  with  the  small  body  of  troops  which  had  already 
assembled,  and  by  the  vigor  and  activity  of  his  measures  to* 
defeat  the  designs  of  Carleton.  With  this  purpose,  he 
rapidly  descended  the  lake  and  seized  the  position  at  the 
Isle  aux  Noix,  which  commanded  the  entrance  of  the 
Sorel  river.  He  was  soon  after  joined  by  Schuyler,  and 
united  with  him  in  issuing  an  earnest  and  conciliatory 
appeal  to  the  Canadians,  assuring  them  of  the  fraternal 
sympathies  of  the  American  people,  and  exhorting  them  to- 
aid  in  the  emancipation  of  Canada  from  British  power. 
The  direct  effect  of  this  proclamation  was  favorable  to  the 
American  interest,  as  it  confirmed  the  provincial  popula 
tion  in  their  neutral  attitude.  Carleton  had  been  defeated 
in  his  efforts  to  enlist  the  masses  in  any  aggressive  rnove^ 
ments.  He  had  appealed  to  the  bishop  of  Quebec,  to  issue 
a  fiat,  to  be  read  in  the  churches,  exhorting  the  people  to 
take  arms  in  support  of  the  government.  This  dignitary 
revolted  from  the  service,  as  unworthy  his  pastoral  character,, 
and  contrary  to  the  canons  of  his  church.  A  few  subor 
dinate  ecclesiastics,  with  consciences  more  ductile,  and  the 
noblesse,  whose  interests  had  been  essentially  protected  by 
the  Quebec  act,  exerted  themselves  with  great  zeal  to  over- 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  143 

come  this  popular  feeling,  but  with  little  definite  success. 
The  indefatigable  efforts  of  Carleton  embraced  other  expe 
dients.  By  the  influence  of  large  bounties,  and  the  assu 
rances  of  peculiar  privileges  and  immunities  in  the  affairs  of 
the  colony,  he  succeeded  in  gathering  a  few  recruits,  who 
were  enrolled  as  the  corps  of  the  Royal  Highland  Emi 
grants. 

The  royal  agents  effected  more  favorable  results  by  their 
overtures  to  the  savage  tribes.  In  July,  Guy  Johnson,  the 
intendent  of  Indian  affairs,  arrived  at  Montreal,  accompa 
nied  by  a  large  band  of  Iroquois  chiefs  and  warriors,  and 
among  them  Brant,  the  Mohawk  chieftain.  A  solemn 
council  was  held,  and  these  representatives  of  the  powerful 
confederacy  swore  in  their  barbarian  forms  fealty  to  Eng 
land,  pledging  its  support  to  the  cause  of  the  king  against 
the  insurgent  colonies.  Thus  originated  the  employment 
of  the  Indian  in  this  contest,  and  to  this  action  may  be 
traced  the  ruthless  scenes  of  blood  and  rapine  that  marked 
the  progress  of  the  war.1  The  American  commanders 
conceived  a  demonstration  against  the  fort  at  St.  Johns 
expedient,  in  order  to  secure  an  impressive  effect  to  the 
proclamation  which  had  been  issued.  They  advanced  from 
the  island  with  only  one  thousand  effective  men,  and  re 
pulsed  on  their  march  a  spirited  attack  by  the  Indians. 
A  slight  breastwork  was  erected  near  the  fort,  but  without 
the  power  of  assailing  works,  which  were  found  to  be 
quite  formidable.  Schuyler  determined  to  fall  back  with 
the  view  of  protecting  his  original  position.  By  the  erec 
tion  of  a  cheveau  de  frize  in  the  Sorel  river,  he  effectually 
obstructed  all  access  to  the  lake,  by  the  vessels  which 
Carleton  was  actively  employed  in  constructing  at  St.  Johns. 
Schuyler  was  recalled  to  Albany  by  public  affairs,  and 
while  detained  there  was  attacked  by  a  severe  and  pro 
tracted  sickness,  that  prevented  his  return  to  the  army. 
The  command  of  the  expedition  devolved  on  General 

1  Stone's  Life  of  Brant. 


144  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Montgomery,  and  it  could  have  been  confided  to   no  more 
•competent  or  illustrious  leader. 

Montgomery  was  a  native  of  Ireland,  and  born  to  high 
.-social  position.  His  mind,  endowed  by  eminent  native 
qualities,  was  adorned  by  culture,  refined  by  habits,  and 
elevated  and  expanded  by  military  experience.  He  served 
under  Wolfe  at  Louisburg  with  much  distinction,  was 
promoted  and  attached  to  the  army  of  Amherst,  in  which 
lie  acted  as  adjutant  of  the  17th  Regiment  of  foot.  He 
accompanied  his  regiment  to  the  West  Indies,  and  retired 
from  the  army  with  the  rank  of  captain  in  1772.  Soon 
after  his  resignation,  he  married  a  daughter  of  Robert 
It.  Livingstone,  and,  settling  upon  the  banks  of  the 
Hudson,  devoted  himself  to  the  pursuits  of  peace.  Here, 
in  1775,  he  was  dwelling  in  elegant  repose,  surrounded  by 
all  the  refined  blandishments  of  society  and  the  joys  of 
domestic  felicity.  His  adopted  country  summoned  him 
from  these  happy  scenes,  demanding,  in  her  impending 
struggle,  the  influence  of  his  character  and  the  aid  of  his 
genius  and  acquirements.  He  freely  consecrated  all  to 
the  cause  of  liberty  and  independence. 

The  early  arrival  of  reenforcernents  and  artillery  enabled 
Montgomery  to  pursue  aggressive  measures,  and  he  again 
advanced  and  formed  the  regular  investment  of  St.  Johns, 
That  fortress,  situated  on  the  Sorel,  was  now  considered 
the  key  to  Canada.  It  was  occupied  by  a  garrison  of 
seven  hundred  men  commanded  by  Major  Preston,  and  its- 
strong  works  were  impregnable  to  the  ordnance  of  Mont 
gomery,  who  was  alike  deficient  in  guns  and  ammunition. 
Fortunately,  the  tort  at  Chambly,  a  short  distance  belowr 
upon  the  same  river,  was  held  by  a  small  body  of  troops 
and  guarded  without  prudence  or  vigilance.  Montgomery 
promptly  resolved  to  avail  himself  of  these  circumstances,, 
and  a  party  led  by  majors  Livingstone  and  Brown,  de 
scended  the  river  in  silence  and  in  the  obscurity  of  a  dark 
night,  attacked  and  captured  the  fort  after  a  feeble  defense. 
This  successful  enterprise  relieved  the  great  embarrass 
ment  of  Montgomery,  and  furnished  him  with  several  heavy 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  145 

pieces  of  cannon,  a  hundred  and  twenty-four  barrels  of 
powder,  and  a  large  quantity  of  stores  and  provisions.  The 
colors  captured  at  the  fort  were  transmitted  to  congress, 
with  imposing  forms,  as  the  first  testimonials  of  success. 

A  more  favorable  disposition  towards  the  Americans 
was  disclosed  among  the  Canadians,  and  large  numbers 
joined  the  army,  bringing  with  them  supplies  and  ammuni 
tion.  "With  a  view  of  fostering  this  spirit,  by  intercourse 
with  the  people  and  an  exhibition  of  strength,  as  well  as 
to  procure  supplies,  Montgomery  caused  detachments  of 
his  troops  to  traverse  the  country  in  various  directions. 
Allen  and  Brown,  at  the  head  of  two  of  these  parties, 
having  approached  Montreal,  hastily  concerted  an  attack 
on  the  island.  The  conception  of  crossing  a  wide  and 
turbulent  river,  in  the  presence  of  a  superior  and  vigilant 
enemy,  was  bold  and  extravagant ;  but  heroic  daring  was 
the  spirit  of  the  times.  Allen,  securing  boats  at  Longueil, 
crossed  the  river  at  night  with  one  hundred  men,  many 
of  whom  were  Canadians.  Brown,  who  it  was  intended 
should  cross  above  the  river,  and  cooperate  by  a  diversion 
with  the  other  party,  was  unable  to  effect  his  part  of  the 
plan.  Allen  was  thus  left  to  meet  the  united  strength  of 
the  garrison,  and  was  assailed  by  an  overwhelming  force 
of  regulars,  Canadians,  and  savages.  He  made  a  gallant 
resistance,  but  was  compelled  to  surrender  with  his  entire 
party.  Carleton,  departing  from  the  generous  clemency 
that  adorned  his  character,  refused  to  recognize  Allen  as 
a  prisoner  of  war,  but,  loaded  with  chains,  he  was  trans 
ported  to  England,  and  subjected  on  the  passage  to  every 
barbarous  indignity.  In  that  country,  he  was  transferred 
with  capricious  tyranny  from  one  jail  to  another,  and 
from  prison  castles  to  convict  ships  ;  continually  pursued 
by  the  same  unrelenting  persecution,  but  powerless  to 
shake  the  stern  devotion  of  his  republican  zeal.  After 
an  imprisonment  of  almost  three  years,  he  was  exchanged 
and  received  by  a  grateful  country,  with  every  demon 
stration  of  respect  and  interest.  Allen  had  been  su 
perseded  in  the  command  of  the  Vermont  troops  by 
10 


146  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Warner,  and  in  his  connection  with  the  army  of  Mont 
gomery,  held  no  distinct  or  formal  official  position. 

Cafleton,  elated  by  this  success,  determined,  in  conjunc 
tion  with  Colonel  McLean,  who  Was  stationed  with  the 
corps  of  Royal  Emigrants  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sorel>  to 
effect  the  relief  of  the  garrison  at  St.  Johns.    With  a  force 
'of  one  thousand  men,  consisting  principally  of  Canadians 
and  Indians,  he  undertook  to  effect  the  passage  of  the 
river  from  Montreal  to  Longueil.     Warner,  however,  in 
anticipation  of  the  movement^  had  occupied  the  eastern 
bank,  lying  in  concealment  at  Longueil  with  three  hundred 
of  the  Green  mountain  boys,  and  fortifying  his  position 
by  a  few  small  pieces  of  artillery  judiciously  planted.     As 
Carleton   approached  the   shore,  he  was  received  by  a 
sweeping  shower  of  grape  and  musketry.     His  raw  troops, 
Unaccustomed  to  an  ordeal  so  unexpected  and  severe,  were 
at  once  repulsed  and  fled  back  precipitately  to  the  island. 
McLean  retreated  to  his  former  position,  and  having  learnt 
by  a  letter,  from  Arnold  to  Schuyler,  which  had  been 
intrusted  to  an  Indian  runner,  and  fell  into  the  hands  of 
McLean  through  treachery  or  accident,  the  astounding 
intelligence  that  an  American  army  was  descending  the 
valley  of  the  Chaudiere  with  the  design  of  seizing  Quebec^ 
hastened  with  all  the  force  he  was  able  to  collect  to  occupy 
that  place.      Montgomery  immediately  secured  the  pos 
session  of  the  important  post  evacuated  by  McLean,  and 
by  the  erection  of  a  commanding  work  at  the  junction  of 
the  Sorel  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  sustained  by  floating 
batteries,  obstructed  the  navigation  of  both  streams.    This 
energetic  proceeding  totally  isolated  Montreal,  and   the 
forts  upon  the  upper  waters  of  the  river  and  lakes,  from 
all  communication  with  Quebec  and  the  ocean. 

Preston,  having  been  apprised  by  Montgomery  of  these 
adverse  circumstances,  surrendered  St.  Johns,  with  its 
garrison,  its  armament  of  fifty  guns,  eight  hundred  stands 
of  arms,  and  a  large  amount  of  munitions.  This  most 
valuable  conquest  being  accomplished,  Montgomery,  with 
out  any  delay,  marched  upon  Montreal,  and  offering  that  city 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  147 

the  most  liberal  and  humane  terms ;  it  capitulated  without 
making  any  defense.  Carleton,  anticipating  the  arrival 
of  Montgomery,  relinquished  the  command  of  Montreal 
to  Prescott,  and  repaired  to  the  fleet,  which  he  had  as 
sembled  below  the  city.  Its  descent  was,  however, 
obstructed  by  the  works  that  had  been  erected  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Sorel,  and  which  had  already  inflicted 
on  the  fleet  a  severe  repulse.  The  capture  of  the  go 
vernor-general,  an  event  that  would  have  been  almost  de 
cisive  of  the  war  in  Canada,  appeared  inevitable,  but  he 
effected  an  escape  in  disguise,  floating  by  the  American 
batteries  in  a  boat  with  muffled  oars,  and  under  the  protec 
tion  of  a  dark  night.  Prescott,  who  subsequently  attained 
such  notoriety  in  his  second  capture  on  Rhode  Island,  on  the 
thirteenth  of  November,  surrendered  the  fleet  and  a  large 
part  of  the  garrison  of  Montreal  which  had  sought  refuge 
on  the  vessels,  with  many  persons  of  both  civil  and  mili 
tary  prominence. 

Montgomery,  throughout  the  campaign,  had  been  tried 
and  oppressed  by  the  character  of  the  troops  over  whom 
he  held  a  nominal  command.  Inspired  by  the  loftiest 
heroism  and  enthusiasm,  the  army  was  composed  of  re 
cruits  without  experience,  hastily  levied  with  only  a  brief 
terra  of  enlistment.  At  home  they  had  been  accustomed  to 
a  social  equality  with  their  officers  in  the  same  pacific  pur 
suits  and  the  unlimited  exercise  of  opinion  and  the  freedom 
of  consultation.  They  carried  these  habits  into  camp,  and 
asserted  there  the  same  privileges.  The  restraints  and 
rules  of  obedience,  usual  to  military  service,  were  but 
slightly  recognized.  The  native  eloquence  of  their  leader, 
his  conciliatory  spirit  and  wise  deportment,  strengthened 
by  the  high  respect  felt  for  his  character  and  attainments, 
enabled  Montgomery  to  mould  this  inchoate  mass  into  the 
appearance  of  an  army;  but  the  period  was  too  limited  to 
impart  the  discipline  and  efficiency  of  which  materials  so 
intelligent  and  brave  were  susceptible.  In  addition  to  these 
embarrassments,  the  army  imperfectly  clothed  already  suf 
fered  from  the  rigors  of  the  climate  and  all  the  evil  conse- 


148  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

quences  of  the  mistaken  policy  of  short  enlistments  began 
to  be  disclosed.  A  large  part  of  the  troops  were  even  then 
entitled  to  their  discharges,  and  the  expiration  of  the  term 
of  many  others  was  rapidly  approaching. 

Montgomery  distributed  to  the  soldiers  warm  clothing, 
and  by  the  most  earnest  importunities,  and  addresses  to 
their  soldierly  spirit  and  patriotism,  endeavored  to  prevail 
on  them  to  remain  until  the  close  of  a  campaign  which 
had  opened  with  such  brilliant  presages.  All  these 
appeals  were  in  the  main  unsuccessful.  Montgomery 
had  been  educated  in  a  strict  school  of  military  subordi 
nation,  and  his  spirit  was  galled  and  depressed  by  this 
laxity  of  discipline,  and  of  the  bonds  that  held  together 
an  army,  upon  the  conduct  of  which  depended  his  own 
success  and  fame,  but  over  which  he  saw  that  he  could 
exert  little  controlling  power.  An  enthusiastic  devotion 
to  the  cause  to  which  he  had  pledged  his  service,  alone 
restrained  an  immediate  abandonment  of  the  command ; 
but  he  announced  to  congress  a  fixed  determination  to 
resign,  whenever  the  pending  operations  were  terminated. 

While  these  events  were  transpiring  on  the  St.  Lawrence, 
one  of  the  most  remarkable  adventures  of  the  age  was  in 
progress  in  another  quarter.  Washington,  in  the  camp 
before  Boston,  had  conceived  the  idea  of  a  measure,  so 
daring  and  terrible,  that  its  execution  seemed  scarcely 
within  the  compass  of  human  endurance.  It  was  one  of 
those  conceptions,  that  occasionally  burst  through  the 
Fabian  policy,  which  circumstances  imposed  upon  him, 
and  proved  that  inherent  impulses  would  have  prompted 
him  to  measures  of  bold  enterprise  and  vigorous  action. 
He  resolved  to  dispatch  a  body  of  one  thousand  men  under 
the  command  of  Arnold,  who  should  proceed  up  the  Ken- 
nebec  river,  and,  surmounting  the  hideous  wilderness  where 
its  fountains  mingled  with  the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  which  had  never  been  traversed  save  by  the  Indians 
and  the  mountaineer,  should  descend  by  the  Chaudiere  to 
Quebec.  With  a  supreme  knowledge  of  Canadian  affairs, 
Washington  wisely  conceived,  that  wholly  unsuspicious  of 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  149 

danger  from  this  direction  all  the  available  troops  would 
be  withdrawn  by  Carleton  from  the  lower  St.  Law 
rence  to  oppose  Montgomery,  that  Quebec  would  be 
unguarded,  and  that  the  citizens,  favorably  disposed  to  the 
American  occupation,  would,  with  joy,  capitulate.  This 
plan  would  have  been  crowned  by  complete  success,  had 
not  untoward  delays  been  created  by  the  insuperable  obsta 
cles  that  nature  interposed.  It  is  not  within  the  range  of 
our  narrative  to  trace  the  details  of  this  marvelous  exploit, 
beyond  its  connection  with  the  operations  of  Montgomery. 
About  the  middle  of  September,  Arnold  commenced 
his  wild  and  adventurous  march,  and  did  not  reach  the 
banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  until  the  9th  of  November, 
more  than  three  weeks  later  than  the  day  designated  in 
the  original  design.  No  baud  of  heroes  have  ever  sur 
mounted  equal  perils  and  suffering  with  firmer  constancy 
and  resolution.  Thirty-two  days  they  were  buried  in  this 
desolation  of  forests  and  mountains,  of  rivers,  morasses 
and  lakes.  Their  progress  had  been  protracted  by  the 
most  formidable  impediments,  struggling  amid  gloomy 
solitudes,  cheered  by  no  human  countenance,  and  without 
a  single  aspect  of  civilization.  When  thirty  miles  from 
the  first  Canadian  cabin,  the  last  remnant  of  provision 
was  exhausted.  The  pet  dogs  of  the  officers,  which  had 
lovingly  followed  their  masters  through  these  perils,  had 
been  eaten,  with  food  still  more  loathsome  and  repulsive.1 
"When  at  length  the  expedition  reached  the  settlements 
far  up  on  the  Chaudiere,  it  was  received  with  cordiality 
and  kindness,  and  the  wants  of  the  famishing  troops 
relieved  to  the  utmost  extent  permitted  by  the  limited 
resources  of  the  people.  Here  Arnold  was  constrained  to 
indulge  his  army  in  a  brief  repose,  while  he  awaited  the 
gathering  of  the  scattered  detachments  and  dispersed  the 
forcible  and  conciliatory  proclamation  of  Washington. 
Colonel  Enos,  who  conducted  the  rear  division,  consisting 
of  one-third  of  the  army,  after  reaching  the  sources  of  the 

1  Sparks'*  Life  of  Arnold. 


150  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Kennebec,  was  compelled  to  return  by  an  utter  destitution 
of  subsistence  for  his  troops. 

When  this  array  of  unknown  men,  burst  into  their 
seclusion  from  the  pathless  wilderness,  the  simple  minded 
habitans  looked  upon  them  in  wonder,  mingled  with  awe. 
It  almost  seemed  to  them 

As  if  the  yawning  hills  to  heaven, 
A  subterranean  host  had  given. 

Rumor  spread  with  wild  exaggeration,  the  report  of  the 
numbers  of  the  invaders.  They  were  represented  as  terri 
ble  in  their  powers  of  body,  invincible  in  courage  and 
cased  in  iron.  These  intrepid  adventurers  stood  upon  the 
shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Quebec,  the  prize  that  was  to 
have  rewarded  all  their  toils  and  suffering,  was  in  view, 
but  beyond  their  grasp. 

The  letter  which  had  been  intercepted  by  McLean,  com 
municated  to  him  the  designs  of  Arnold.  The  alertness 
that  secured  the  presence  of  the  former  at  Quebec,  and  the 
vigor  of  his  measures,  saved  the  city  from  capitulation. 
Vigilant  and  experienced,  he  adopted  every  expedient  to 
insure  its  safety.  All  the  boats  he  could  seize  were  re 
moved  from  the  eastern  shore  of  the  river;  sailors  to  man 
the  batteries  were  drawn  from  the  ships  in  the  harbor,  and 
the  defenses  of  the  city  generally  were  reorganized  and 
strengthened.  Had  Arnold  been  able  to  effect  the  imme 
diate  passage  of  the  St.  Lawrence  when  he  reached  its 
shores,  he  would  have  found  a  universal  consternation  pre 
vailing,  Quebec  undefended,  and  the  people  disposed  to 
yield  to  him  the  possession  of  the  city.  The  precautions  of 
McLean  frustrated  this  measure,  the  original  plan  of  the 
campaign.  The  prevalence  of  an  impetuous  storm  and  the 
delay  incident  to  the  collection  of  means  of  transportation 
caused  a  detention  of  four  days.  Having  succeeded  in 
procuring  thirty  or  forty  frail  birch  canoes,  by  the  assist 
ance  of  the  Canadians,  Arnold  crossed  the  river  with  five 
hundred  men  on  the  night  of  the  13th,  although  the  Lizard 
frigate  and  a  sloop  were  lying  in  front  of  the  city,  for  the 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  .     151 

purpose  of  intercepting  them,  and  their  guard  boats  were 
continually  patrolling  the  stream.  The  little  flotilla  had 
made  three  passages,  and  as  the  last  party  landed,  the  disco 
very  of  the  movement  by  one  of  these,  made  it  unsafe  to  at 
tempt  the  crossing  of  the  rear  division  amounting  to  one 
hundred  and  fifty  men,  who  remained  in  the  occupation  of 
Point  I^evi.  Arnold  ascended  the  precipitous  cliffs  that 
"Wolfe  had  rendered  memorable,  and  stood  when  the  day 
dawned,  with  his  little  band  on  the  plains  of  Abraham. 
The  hope  of  seizing  the  city  by  a  surprise  was  disappointed. 
The  guard  boat  had  communicated  information  of  the 
crossing  by  the  Americans;  the  city  was  alarmed,  and 
McLean  alert  and  prepared  to  meet  an  attack. 

An  assault  of  a  fortified  city,  guarded  by  a  garrison 
of  eighteen  hundred  men  with  his  small  party,  almost  with 
out  ammunition,  destitute  of  artillery  and  a  large  part  of 
their  guns  rendered  useless  by  the  exposure  of  their  march, 
Arnold  saw  would  be  a  hopeless  and  a  desperate  sacrifice. 
The  next  day,  with  his  usual  audacity,  he  sent  a  flag  sum 
moning  the  city  to  surrender,  but  it  was  fired  upon  without 
permitting  an  approach  to  the  walls.  He  occupied,  during 
three  days,  lines  in  front  of  the  place,  and  attempted  by 
various  devices  to  excite  a  cooperative  movement  by  par 
tisans  within  the  works.  These  demonstrations  secured 
no  favorable  results,  and  learning  that  a  sortie  by  the  garri 
son  was  contemplated,  while  a  body  of  two  hundred  troops, 
which  had  escaped  from  Montreal  was  approaching  his 
rear,  Arnold  decided  to  fall  back  to  Point  au  Tremble, 
twenty  miles  above,  and  there  to  await  a  junction  with 
Montgomery.1 


1  Much  discrepancy  will  be  discovered  in  the  language  of  historians  in 
reference  to  these  events.  Marshall  states  that  Arnold  crossed  on  the  14th, 
that  McLean  did  not  arrive  at  Quebec  before  Arnold  reached  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence ;  that  the  guard  boat  neglected  to  impart  intelli 
gence  of  the  crossing,  that  no  apprehension  existed  of  an  attack,  and  had 
Arnold  been  aware  of  these  facts  he  might  have  marched  through  St.  John's 
gate  into  the  city,  unopposed.  Botta  affirms  that  a  council  of  naval  officers 
refused  to  allow  the  sailors  to  land  in  support  of  the  garrison. 


152  HISTOEY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Arnold  with  deep  chagrin,  saw  the  vessel  that  conveyed 
Carleton  to  Quebec  safely  descending  the  river  and  to  learn 
that  on  his  arrival  at  Point  au  Tremble,  that  Carleton  had 
landed  there  only  an  hour  or  two  before. 

The  troops,  whose  period  of  service  had  terminated, 
resisted  every  appeal  to  their  patriotism  and  duty  urged  by 
Montgomery,  to  induce  them  to  remain,  and  by  their  per 
sistent  determination  to  assert  their  legal  rights  nearly 
dissolved  his  army.  After  leaving  feeble  garrisons  to  main 
tain  his  different  conquests,  he  joined  Arnold  on  the  1st  of 
December  with  a  detachment  of  three  hundred  men.  But 
he  brought  an  ample  supply  of  woolen  apparel  to  clothe  the 
suffering  army  of  Arnold. 

On  the  5th  of  December,  the  combined  forces,  forming 
an  aggregate  of  less  than  a  thousand  men,  again  appeared 
before  Quebec  and  renewed  the  siege.  A  battery  of  six 
small  guns  was  erected.  The  frozen  ground  resisted  all 
efforts  to  use  it  for  that  purpose,  and  Montgomery  resorted 
to  the  novel  expedient  of  substituting  snow  for  earth,  in 
the  construction  of  the  work,  which,  saturated  with  water 
and  hardened  by  frost,  acquired  almost  the  consistency  and 
firmness  of  marble.  The  guns,  mounted  on  the  battery, 
proved  too  light  for  effective  service.  Montgomery  renewed 
the  formal  summons  to  surrender,  but  his  flag  was  again 
fired  upon  and  repelled.  This  unusual  action  was  intended 
to  interdict  communication  between  the  besiegers  and 
citizens.  At  first  a  strong  favorable  disposition  existed 
among  the  people  towards  the  republican  interests,  but 
this  feeling  had  been  much  modified  by  the  policy  of 
Carleton,  and  the  alarm  excited  by  an  apprehension  of  the 
probable  consequence  to  the  town  of  a  hostile  occupation. 

Darkness  and  gloom  were  gathering  around  the  enter 
prise,  but  the  inflexible  spirit  of  the  leaders,  sustained  by 
the  enthusiasm  of  the  army,  could  be  subdued  by  no  com 
mon  obstacles.  The  sufferings  of  the  troops  in  their 
exposed  condition  from  the  severity  of  the  weather,  and 
the  unremitting  toil  and  fatigue  to  which  they  were  sub 
jected,  transcended  all  that  had  been  imagined  of  distress 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  .     153 

and  hardship.  These  calamitous  circumstances  were  in 
tensely  aggravated  by  the  appearance  of  the  small-pox  in 
the  camp.  This  fell  pestilence,  then  the  most  dreaded 
scourge  to  armies,  raged  with  peculiar  virulence  and 
fatality,  and  pursued  the  troops  with  an  unmitigated 
severity  until  their  final  return  to  Ticonderoga. 

Montgomery  knew  that  the  loftiest  expectations  had 
been  inspired  by  the  early  successes  of  the  campaign,  and 
the  confidence  in  his  genius  and  skill.  A  brilliant  enter 
prise,  which  should  shed  around  a  failure  a  blaze  of  glory, 
would  prove  less  disastrous  in  its  influence  upon  this 
popular  enthusiasm,  than  an  inglorious  retreat  without 
an  effort.  His  own  fame,  and  the  reputation  of  the  army 
demanded  a  great  effort,  and  he  resolved  to  risk  a  general 
assault  upon  the  city.  A  council  of  war  approved  the 
design,  and  the  army,  which  it  was  necessary  to  consult, 
after  the  disaffection  of  a  part  of  Arnold's  command,  had 
been  surmounted  by  the  influence  of  Morgan,  embraced 
it  with  extreme  ardor.  An  assault,  although  in  the  high 
est  degree  perilous  and  doubtful,  was  far  from  desperate. 
The  very  magnitude  of  the  work,  occupied  by  a  feeble 
garrison,  was  an  element  of  weakness.  The  Canadian 
levies  were  known  to  be  disaffected,  and  the  citizens  with 
out  zeal  towards  the  government.  Audacity  often  wins 
where  judgment  hesitates  and  calculation  fails. 

The  plan  ultimately  adopted  by  Montgomery,  contem 
plated  two  demonstrations  against  the  upper  town,  by  de 
tachments  chiefly  composed  of  Canadian  recruits  and  led 
by  Livingstone  and  Brown,  while  the  real  attack  should  be 
made  upon  the  lower  town  by  Montgomery  and  Arnold, 
assailing  it  at  opposite  points.  The  combined  movements 
commenced  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  31st  day 
of  December,  1775.  A  driving  snow  storm,  impelled  by  a 
fierce  north-east  gale,  enveloped  the  scene  in  profound 
obscurity.  Each  commander  at  the  head  of  the  forlorn 
hope,  led  his  own  column.  The  vigilance  of  Carleton  was 
unslumbering ;  the  batteries  were  armed,  the  guns  charged 
with  grape  and  canister  ready  to  offer  the  assailants  a  fear- 


154  HISTORY  OP  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

ful  reception.  Yet,  so  skillfully  had  the  measures  of 
Montgomery  been  conducted,  that  Carleton  knew  not 
from  what  direction  to  expect  the  impending  blow.1  The 
Americans  advanced  with  caution  and  in  silence,  slowly 
groping  their  way,  amid  darkness  and  the  tempest.  Mont 
gomery  assumed  to  himself  the  dangerous  duty  of  leading 
the  column,  which  was  intended  to  make  the  assault  by  a 
narrow  and  obscure  pathway  that  passed  between  the  base 
of  Cape  Diamond,  a  lofty  and  inaccessible  precipice  and  the 
river  St.  Lawrence.  This  defile  was  defended  by  a  strong 
block-house  with  palisades  extending  from  the  cliffs  to  the 
river.  A  picket  had  been  constructed  a  short  distance  in 
advance,  which  was  occupied  by  a  few  Canadian  soldiers. 
At  the  approach  of  the  assailing  party,  this  guard  fled  in 
alarm  and  disorder,  firing  a  harmless  volley,  and  communi 
cated  their  panic  to  the  troops  at  the  block-house,  who 
also  precipitately  abandoned  their  post. 

The  advance  of  the  Americans  was  impeded  by  an 
immense  and  nearly  insurmountable  barrier  of  ice,  which 
at  this  point  had  been  formed  by  the  surging  tide  and  where 
the  drifting  snow  had  accumulated.  The  troops,  able 
only  to  advance  in  single  file  or  individually,  were  slowly 
and  with  excessive  difficulty  surmounting  these  obstacles, 
while  Montgomery  was  aiding  with  his  own  hands  in 
removing  the  palisades.  He  halted  sufficiently  to  be 
joined  by  about  two  hundred  of  his  followers,  and  boldly 
advancing,  shouted :  "  Men  of  New  York,  you  will  not 
fear  to  follow  where  your  general  leads."  At  this  moment 
a  single  cannonier,  tradition  states  a  drunken  sailor,2 
returned  to  the  battery,  and,  seizing  an  unextinguished 
match,  discharged  one  of  the  pieces.  The  storm  of  grape 
swept  along  the  narrow  passage  with  frightful  destruction. 
Every  man  in  the  advance,  except  a  Canadian  guide  and 
Aaron  Burr,  a  youth  of  nineteen  who  had  joined  Arnold 
as  a  volunteer,  was  stricken  down.3  Montgomery,  pierced 
by  a  ball  through  the  head,  and  both  legs  lacerated  by 

1  Carleton'8  letter.        3  Sttlimaris  Journal.        3  Palmer's  C/Mmplain. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  155 

another,  fell  dying  into  the  arms  of  Burr.  Cheeseman 
and  McPherson,  the  aids  of  Montgomery,  both  fell  at  the 
side  of  their  commander.  That  single  explosion  was  fatal 
to  the  enterprise.  The  fall  of  their  leader  crushed  the 
spirit  of  the  troops.  Colonel  Campbell,  who  succeeded  to 
the  command  of  the  column  on  the  fall  of  Montgomery, 
hastily  retired  and  abandoned  the  assault  without  further 
effort.  * 

The  operations  of  Livingstone  and  Brown  were  defeated 
by  the  furious  tempest,  and  they  necessarily  failed  in  effect 
ing  the  diversion  contemplated  by  the  plan  of  attack. 
Arnold,  marching  promptly  at  the  concerted  signal,  ap 
proached  in  silence  along  the  St.  Charles,  moving  through 
St.  Roques  street  toward  the  Saut  au  Matelots.  At  this 
point  a  battery  of  two  twelve-pounders  had  been  con 
structed.  This  barrier  could  only  be  approached  by  a  path 
which,  at  that  time,  obstructed  by  an  enormous  mass  of 
snow  and  ice,  afforded  only  a  deep  and  narrow  passage  of 
the  breadth  of  a  single  track.  The  difficult  defile  might 
be  raked  by  the  guns  of  the  battery  and  swept  by  the  mus 
ketry  from  the  walls  and  pickets  of  the  garrison ;  but  it  fur 
nished  the  only  avenue  by  which  the  Americans  could 
advance  to  the  assault.  Arnold  rushed  along  this  terrible 
gorge  at  the  head  of  Lamb's  Artillery  Company,  with  a  sin 
gle  field-piece  mounted  upon  a  sled.  It  became  impossible 
to  move  the  gun  through  the  pass,  and  it  served  only  to  ob 
struct  the  path  and  to  impede  the  passage  of  the  troops.  The 
main  body  closely  followed  the  artillery,  preceded  by  Mor 
gan's  riflemen.  An  alarm  was  soon  sounded,  and  a  severe 
fire  of  grape  and  musketry  opened  upon  the  assailants. 
As  Arnold,  leading  with  the  most  daring  intrepidity,  ap 
proached  the  battery,  he  was  prostrated,  by  a  ball  that 
shattered  his  leg,  and  borne  from  the  field.  Morgan,  the 
future  victor  at  the  Cowpens,  succeeded  to  the  command 
and  assailed  the  battery  with  irresistible  impetuosity. 
Receiving  the  fire  of  one  gun  almost  at  its  rnouth,  and  while 
his  riflemen  fired  upon  the  defenders  through  the  embra 
sures,  the  barricade  was  scaled  by  ladders  carried  on  the 


156  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

shoulders  of  his  men.  The  battery  and  the  guns,  with  most 
of  the  guards,  were  captured.  Morgan  was  the  second  man 
who  crossed  the  barricade.  His  gallant  sergeant,  Charles 
Porterfield  of  Virginia,  afterwards  a  lieutenant-colonel 
and  slain  at  Camden,  was  the  first. 

Notwithstanding  this  success,  the  situation  of  Morgan 
was  in  the  highest  degree  critical.  He  was  alone  with  his 
own  company,  and  a  few  bold  individuals  who  had  pressed 
to  the  front ;  all  the  efforts  of  Lamb  to  advance  his  gun 
were  ineffectual.  Morgan  had  no  guides,  was  ignorant 
of  the  formation  of  the  city,  and  without  intelligence  of 
the  cooperative  movements.  The  soldiers  were  oppressed 
by  the  cold ;  icicles  covered  their  clothes ;  they  were  be 
wildered  by  the  intense  darkness  and  the  raging  of  the 
storm.  A  temporary  pause  was  necessary,  and  Morgan 
returned  to  the  barrier.  Here  he  succeeded,  with  the 
active  aid  of  Colonel  Green  and  Major  Bigelow  and  Meigs, 
in  assembling  a  body  of  about  two  hundred  men.  When 
the  appearance  of  light  revealed  the  aspect  of  affairs,  the 
spirit  and  confidence  of  the  troops  were  reanimated,  and 
with  a  united  voice,  they  called  on  Morgan  to  lead  against 
the  second  battery,  which  was  near,  but  disguised  by  an 
angle  of  the  street.  Morgan,  placing  himself  at  their  head, 
and  animating  them  by  his  voice,  pealing  above  the  howl 
ing  of  the  tempest  and  the  din  of  battle,  rapidly  advanced. 
Passing  the  angle,  he  was  confronted  by  a  body  of  troops, 
commanded  by  Captain  Anderson,  who  called  on  him  to 
surrender.  Morgan  instantly  shot  him  dead,  and  the 
Americans  rushing  onward  planted  their  ladders  against 
the  barricade,  under  a  galling  fire  as  well  from  the  win 
dows  of  the  adjacent  houses,  as  from  the  works.  A  san 
guinary  conflict  ensued,  and  a  few  of  the  most  resolute  of 
Morgan's  little  band  mounted  the  ladders,  but  when  they 
reached  the  top  of  the  parapet,  an  obstacle  was  revealed 
calculated  to  appall  the  stoutest  heart.  Two  lines  of 
British  troops  stood  on  the  opposite  side ;  the  butts  of 
their  muskets  resting  upon  the  ground  and  the  bayonets 
pointed  to  the  summit  of  the  barricade,  formed  an  impene- 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  157 

trable  abatis  of  steel.  Part  of  the  Americans  retreated  into 
the  stone  houses  which  lined  the  narrow  street,  securing 
shelter  both  from  the  elements  and  the  furious  fire  to 
which  they  had  been  exposed,  while  from  the  window 
they  were  able  to  assail  the  enemy.  One  circumstance 
which  was  peculiarly  depressing,  greatly  impaired  the 
efficiency  of  the  riflemen.  Although  the  precaution  had 
been  observed  of  binding  a  handkerchief  about  the  lock 
of  each  gun,  not  one  in  ten  had  been  effectually  protected 
from  the  storm,  and  was  fit  for  service. 

The  failure  of  the  assault  upon  the  other  parts  of  the 
town  empowered  Carleton  to  hurl  the  whole  force  of  the 
garrison  against  this  single  column.  Dearborn,  who  held 
with  a  company  in  reserve  the  entrance  of  the  gorge  at 
the  St.  Roche  gate,  had  been  already  surprised  and  com 
pelled  to  surrender,  and  that  avenue  of  retreat  was  there 
fore  in  possession  of  the  enemy.  Morgan,  with  the 
concurrence  of  the  officers  who  survived,  determined  to 
burst  through  every  obstruction,  and  to  effect  an  escape; 
but  when  the  attempt  was  made  to  collect  the  troops  and 
animate  them  to  the  effort,  overwhelmed  by  the  cold, 
oppressed  by  a  conviction  of  their  desperate  situation,  and 
intimidated  by  the  deadly  fire  to  which  they  had  been 
exposed  in  the  street,  they  shrunk  from  the  undertaking, 
and  the  bold  proposition  was  abandoned.  Compelled  to 
relinquish  this  purpose,  Morgan  determined  to  maintain 
his  position  in  the  faint  hope  of  receiving  succor  from  the 
other  detachments.  Attacked,  however,  by  a  foe  whose 
strength  was  increasing  every  moment,  in  front  and  rear, 
and  by  a  still  more  destructive  fire  from  the  windows, 
Morgan,  after  contending  for  several  hours  with  the  utmost 
skill  and  gallantry  against  all  these  adverse  circumstances, 
was  at  length  constrained  to  capitulate.  Thus  disastrously 
terminated  a  daring  and  energetic  enterprise,  in  which  the 
Americans  lost,  including  sixty  killed  and  wounded,  about 
four  hundred  men.  The  valor  and  ability  of  the  defense 
exhibited  by  Carleton  were  not  more  conspicuous  than  the 
generous  humanity  of  the  conqueror.  The  prisoners  were 


158  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

treated  with  kindness ;  the  wounded  cared  for  in  the  hos 
pitals,  and  the  dead  interred. 

The  body  of  Montgomery,  lying  in  a  guard  house  with 
thirteen  corpses  of  his  brave  followers,  which  had  been  ex 
humed  from  the  snowdrift  that  had  formed  to  them  a  com 
mon  sepulchre,  was  recognized  by  an  American  officer  and 
consigned  to  the  care  of  an  old  companion  in  arms,  and 
was  reverently  buried  near  the  ramparts  of  the  city.  The 
loss  of  his  great  military  talent  and  acquirements,  and  the  in 
fluence  of  his  social  and  intellectual  eminence  was  irreparable. 
The  death  of  Montgomery  was  deplored  not  only  by  his 
own  countrymen,  but  in  every  clime  where  the  love  of  liberty 
was  cherished.  Even  in  the  British  parliament,  the  loftiest 
eloquence  pronounced  his  eulogium,  and  Barre,  and  Burke, 
and  Fox,  ascribed  to  his  deeds  and  character  the  exalted 
virtues  which  adorn  the  names  of  the  noblest  heroes  and 
patriots  of  antiquity.  Lord  North,  while  denouncing  the 
course  of  Montgomery,  and  reprehending  these  tributes  to 
his  worth,  pointed  and  enforced  the  panegyric,  when  he  ex 
claimed  in  the  language  of  the  poet : 

Curse  his  virtues,  for  they  have  undone  his  country. 

It  was  a  fit  and  beatiuful  coincidence  that  this  youthful  hero, 
for  he  had  not  attained  his  fortieth  year,  the  pupil  of  Wolfe, 
a  disciple  of  the  glory  and  spirit  of  Montcalm,  should  have 
fallen  on  this  consecrated  ground.1 

The  body  of  Montgomery  reposed  for  almost  half  a 
century  in  the  grave  where  it  had  been  deposited  by  a 
generous  enemy ;  but  in  the  year  1818,  the  executive  of 
New  York  claimed  the  sacred  deposit  for  removal  to  the 
state  of  Montgomery's  adoption,  and  the  governor-general 
of  Canada  gracefully  acceded  to  the  request.  The  remains 
of  Montgomery  were  borne  through  the  country,  accom 
panied  by  every  exhibition  of  love  and  reverence.  A 
single  day  they  lay  in  state,  in  the  rotunda  of  the  Capitol 
at  Albany,  and  thousands  of  a  grateful  posterity  visited 

1  Botta's  Graham. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  159 

them,  rendering  the  homage  of  gratitude  and  veneration. 
His  final  obsequies  were  performed  in  New  York  in  all 
the  imposing  solemnities  of  civil  and  military  rites.  His 
relics  were  buried  in  a  grave  near  the  monument  erected 
at  an  early  period,  by  congress,  to  his  memory,  in  St  Paul's 
church-yard. 

He  left  no  children  to  bear  the  heritage  of  his  glorious 
name,  but  his  widow  survived  to  an  extreme  old  age, 
an  object  of  respect  and  interest  as  the  relict  of  Mont 
gomery. 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE  RETREAT  FROM  CANADA. 

Arnold  succeeded  to  the  command  upon  the  death  of 
Montgomery,  and  was  compelled  by  the  exigencies  with 
which  he  was  surrounded  to  convert  the  siege  into  a  block 
ade.  In  the  judicious  policy  of  Carleton  he  was  left  undis 
turbed,  although  inflicting  severe  suffering  upon  the  town 
and  garrison.  The  troops  had  become  insubordinate,  the 
Canadian  people  disappointed  and  harassed,  and  stimulated 
by  the  potent  influence  of  the  rural  priests,  who  refused  the 
last  consolations  of  religion  to  those  who  adhered  to  the 
Americans,  had  assumed  a  hostile  attitude,  while  the 
American  army  was  oppressed  by  disease  and  exposure. 
M.  Beaujeu,  an  influential  and  intrepid  Canadian,  had 
organized  a  hostile  corps;  but  this,  by  a  sudden  and  vigorous 
attack  of  Arnold,  were  broken  up  and  dispersed.  At  length, 
baffled  in  various  attempts  to  effect  a  surprise  of  the  city, 
Arnold  erected  batteries  and  assaulted  the  city  and  shipping 
by  shells  and  hot  shot ;  but  all  their  efforts  were  defeated 
by  the  skill  and  prudence  of  Carleton. 

On  the  1st  of  May,  Arnold  was  superseded  by  the  arri 
val  of  General  Thomas,  who  assumed  the  command. 
Arnold,  always  impracticable  in  a  subordinate  position,  was 
early  involved  in  dissensions  with  his  superior,  and  severe 


160  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

injury  affording  the  pretext,  he  was  transferred  from  the 
active  duties  of  the  field  to  the  command  at  Montreal.  In 
that  position  so  favorable  to  the  exercise  of  his  worst  pas 
sions,  he  revealed  the  cupidity  and  rapaciousness,  which  in 
after  years,  and  on  another  stage  deformed  and  debauched 
his  whole  character. 

My  limits  restrain  me  from  tracing  the  narrative  of  the 
republican  army  in  its  retreat.  Its  extreme  necessities,  its 
endurance  from  the  fell  scourge  that  pursued  it,  the  ineffi 
ciency  that  demoralized  its  strength  and  its  inadequacy  to 
resist  a  more  powerful  enemy,  have  afforded  thrilling  pages 
to  general  history. 

On  the  fifth  of  May,  the  hesitating  councils  of  the 
American  general  were  decided  by  the  arrival  of  three 
British  ships,  the  precursors  of  a  large  fleet,  which  with 
infinite  peril  and  hardihood  had  braved  the  tempests  of  the 
gulf,  and,  pressing  up  the  river  amid  storms  of  snow  and  vast 
ice  fields,  had  effected  the  passage  far  earlier  than  usual. 
The  reenforcements  and  supplies  they  conveyed  were 
immediately  landed.  The  retreat  of  the  American  army 
was  at  once  commenced,  and  with  a  precipitation  that  con 
strained  the  abandonment  of  most  of  its  sick  and  wounded, 
and  all  its  military  stores.  At  Sorell,  Thomas  died  of  the 
prevailing  epidemic,  and  was  succeeded  by  General  Sullivan, 
who  conducted  the  movements  of  the  retreating  army  with 
a  consummate  ability  that  evoked  the  highest  encomium  of 
the  country  and  the  formal  recognition  of  congress. 

The  treatment  by  Carleton,  of  the  sick  and  wounded 
Americans,  who,  wandering  from  the  line  of  march,  had 
been  concealed  and  cherished  by  the  characteristic  chari 
ties  and  kindness  of  the  Canadian  people  was  signalized 
by  an  exalted  clemency  and  generous  benignity.  Wise 
policy  may  have  suggested  these  beneficent  acts,  but  it 
were  unjust  to  withhold  the  recognition  of  deeds  of  mercy 
so  habitual,  and  not  to  concede  that  they  may  have  had 
their  inspiration  in  purer  and  more  exalted  emotions. 

The  calamities  which  marked  this  retreat  were  deeply 
intensified  by  a  repulse  at  Three  Rivers,  and  the  san- 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY. 

guinary  catastrophe  at  the  Cedars.  After  these  reverses, 
Sullivan  pressed  his  retreat  to  the  Isle  aux  Noix,  slowly 
and  defiantly  receding  before  Burgoyne,  while  Arnold 
was  narrowly  escaping  by  extreme  energy  and  prompti 
tude,  another  column  directed  upon  Montreal  to  intercept 
his  escape. 

Sullivan  dismantled  the  works  he  had  occupied,  and 
burnt  or  destroyed  every  craft  that  he  did  not  remove  in 
the  conveyance  of  his  own  army  and  stores.  The  sick  and 
wounded  were  first  transported  to  Crown  point,  and  were 
immediately  followed  by  the  troops.  The  suffering  of  the 
former  was  scarcely  paralleled  by  the  endurance  and  dis 
tress  of  any  scenes  of  that  war,  so  replete  with  sacrifices  and 
hardships.  They  were  necessarily  placed  in  open  and 
leaky  boats,  drenched  continually  with  water  and  exposed 
to  the  burning  rays  of  the  summer's  sun,  with  no  food  but 
raw  and  rancid  pork  and  hard  biscuit.1 

While  at  St.  Johns,  Arnold  caused  the  frame  of  a  vessel 
on  the  stocks  at  that  place  to  be  taken  to  pieces,  carefully 
numbered  and  marked,  and  transported  to  Crown  point. 
He  superintended,  with  indefatigable  vigor  and  activity, 
the  embarkation  of  the  army  on  its  retreat  to  Isle  aux 
2sToix.  Colonel  "Warner,  with  the  Vermont  regiment, 
formed  the  rear,  and  collecting  most  of  the  sick  and 
wounded,  effected  a  safe  retreat,  rejoining  the  army  some 
days  after  the  main  body  had  arrived  at  Ticonderoga. 
The  operations  of  war  are  always  in  their  result  preemi 
nently  influenced  by  fortune  and  accident.  The  American 
campaigns  in  Canada  singularly  illustrate  this  maxim. 
An  elegant  and  philosophical  historian  with  great  force 
remarks,  that  although  the  direct  results  contemplated 
in  the  invasion  of  Canada  were  not  achieved,  the  measure 
exerted  a  powerful  influence  upon  the  issue  of  the  war, 
by  compelling  England  to  adopt  the  policy  of  dividing 
her  armies  in  isolated  attacks,  when  their  united  strength 

1  Palmer's  Champlain. 
11 


162  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

would  have  been  irresistible,  and  probably  subversive  of 
the  republican  cause.1 

The  Canadians,  whose  overt  adherence  to  the  invaders 
compromised  their  relations  with  the  British  government, 
were  pursued  with  a  severe  retribution.  Large  numbers 
followed  the  American  army  in  its  retreat;  those  who 
remained  were  hunted  down  with  a  stern  severity ;  many 
were  tried  and  convicted  of  rebellion,  and  several,  imme 
diately  after  the  repulse  at  Quebec,  were  executed.2  Soon 
after  the  termination  of  the  war  of  independence,  the  state 
of  New  York  devoted  a  large  and  valuable  tract  of  land  in 
the  county  of  Clinton,  designated  the  Canadian  and  Nova 
Scotia  refugee  tract,  for  the  relief  and  indemnification  of 
these  sufferers;  but  a  large  proportion  of  the  grant  was 
either  not  accepted  or  forfeited  by  the  grantees,  or  lost  by 
obstacles  interposed  by  corrupt  and  designing  speculators.3 
When  the  retreating  army  reached  Crown  point,  its  muster 
roll  indicated  a  force  of  five  thousand  men,  but  more  than 
half  of  the  number  were  prostrated  by  disease,  and  chiefly 
by  the  terrible  scourge,  that  desolated  it  like  the  sword  of 
the  destroying  angel.  The  troops  remained  at  that  post 
ten  days,  and  during  that  time,  most  of  them  were  lying 
in  the  agony  of  their  suffering,  with  no  protection  from 
the  rain  and  storms,  except  open  huts  or  frail  coverings, 
formed  by  pine  bowers,  and  destitute  of  almost  every 
comfort  and  even  the  most  common  necessaries  due  to 
the  sick  and  dying.  The  dead  and  the  dying  were  exposed 
together,  without  any  discrimination,  in  all  these  wretched 
receptacles  of  woe  and  charnel  houses  of  death.  In  this 
brief  period  in  the  pause  of  its  retreat,  three  hundred  new- 
made  graves  arose  as  sad  memorials  of  the  sacrifices  of 
this  devoted  army.  Happily  the  judicious  prescience  of 
Sullivan  had  spread  an  ample  shield  of  protection  between 
its  helpnessness  and  the  assaults  of  the  foe. 


1  Boat.        3  Tryon  to  Earl  of  Dartmouth,  Doc,,  vm,  663. 

8  Land  Papers,  Secretary  of  State's  Office,  vol.  XLVII,  126-172. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  163 

"When  the  British  commander  arrived  upon  the  waters 
of  Champlain,  he  found  farther  pursuit  imperatively  ar 
rested,  until  a  new  fleet  and  fresh  means  of  transportation 
could  be  organized.  The  important  and  decisive  struggle 
now  arose  to  secure  the  naval  supremacy  upon  the  lake. 
To  attain  this  object  Carleton  directed  all  his  energies 
and  resources.  He  caused  six  vessels  of  a  large  class, 
which  had  been  constructed  in  England,  to  be  taken  apart 
below  the  Chambly  rapids,  conveyed  in  pieces  to  St. 
Johns,  and  there  rebuilt  with  the  utmost  celerity.  Bateaux, 
with  incredible  labor,  were  made  to  ascend  the  rapids,  and 
boats  and  transports  of  various  dimensions  were  constructed 
in  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Sorel.  By  such  vigor 
ous  measures,  Carleton  succeeded  in  creating  a  fleet  of 
thirty-one  vessels,  ranging  in  their  armament  from  one  to 
eighteen  guns,  and  on  the  1st  of  October  was  prepared  to 
appear  upon  the  lake.  This  formidable  fleet  was  navigated 
by  seven  hundred  veteran  seamen,  and  armed  in  addition 
by  an  efficient  corps  of  artillery. 

Congress  had  been  equally  alert  and  energetic,  but  with 
means  totally  inadequate  to  the  magnitude  of  the  issue. 
The  timber  required  for  the  construction  of  a  fleet  was  yet 
standing  in  the  forest,  and  was  to  be  cut,  prepared,  and  con 
veyed  by  human  labor  to  the  shipyards  at  Ticonderoga  and 
Crown  point.  The  material  for  its  equipment  must  be 
transported  a  long  distance  over  roads,  nearly  impractica 
ble.  The  ship  carpenters,  who  must  construct  the  vessels, 
were  occupied  by  urgent  duties  in  the  yards  upon  the  sea 
coast.  Amid  all  these  adverse  circumstances,  the  indomi 
table  energies  of  Arnold  formed  and  equipped  a  squadron 
of  fifteen  vessels,  bearing  an  aggregate  battery  of  fifty-five 
guns,  and  armed  by  three  hundred  and  fifty  gallant  and 
determined  men,  who  had,  however,  little  or  no  experience 
in  naval  affairs.  The  great  exigency  invoked  courage  and 
sacrifices ;  and,  notwithstanding  this  vast  disparity  of 
strength,  Arnold  decided  boldly  to  throw  himself  across  the 
path  of  the  advancing  enemy. 


164  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

While  the  belligerents  were  thus  sedulously  laboring 
at  the  opposite  extremities  of  the  lake  to  attain  the 
momentous  design  that  prompted  each,  Arnold  cruised 
with  a  few  small  vessels  in  undisputed  ascendancy  upon  its 
waters.  For  a  short  space  we  will  pause  in  the  narrative 
of  public  events  and  recur  to  the  domestic  history  of  the 
colony  on  the  Boquet.  Amid  the  eventful  scenes  which 
surrounded  it,  the  settlement  had  not  escaped  the  tempests 
which  were  raging  along  the  lake.  Mr.  Gilliland  early 
espoused  the  patriotic  cause,  and  in  concert  with  men  of 
congenial  sentiments,  a  military  organization,  embracing 
both  sides  of  the  lake,  had  been  formed  immediately  after 
the  capture  of  Ticonderoga.  His  zeal  and  activity  marked 
him  as  a  victim  to  be  pursued  by  the  special  vengeance  of 
the  government.  He  enjoyed,  with  a  few  other  patriots, 
the  high  distinction  of  being  by  name  proscribed  and  out 
lawed.  A  proclamation  was  issued  by  the  governor  of 
Canada  in  June  succeeding  the  surrender  of  the  Champlain 
fortresses,  offering  a  reward  of  five  hundred  dollars  for  the 
arrest  and  rendition  of  Gilliland  to  the  government.  The 
allurements  of  this  reward  overcame  the  patriotism  and 
fidelity  of  some  of  his  tenants,  who  engaged  in  unsuccessful 
attempts  to  seize  and  convey  him  to  Canada.  Abortive 
efforts  were  made  to  seduce  his  household  slaves  into 
schemes  for  his  betrayal.  Various  other  attempts  were 
made  to  effect  his  capture,  and  the  most  formidable  one 
was  nearly  accomplished,  by  a  sheriff  of  Tryon  county,  who 
penetrated  into  the  settlement  "  with  four  tories  and  three 
savages."  With  great  adroitness,  Gilliland  not  only 
escaped  the  peril,  but  succeeded  in  effecting  the  surprise 
"  and  capture  of  the  whole  party  with  all  their  arms,  and 
sent  them  prisoners  to  Crown  point." 

Gilliland,  with  his  family,  withdrew  to  the  vicinity  of 
Crown  point,  but  returned,  with  part  of  his  tenants,  to 
secure  their  harvests,  and  to  remove  and  secrete  their 
property.  Ponderous  articles  were  buried  or  sunk  in  the 
lake.  Many  families,  homeless  and  destitute,  embracing 
Carleton's  offers  of  amnesty,  joined  the  British  forces,  and 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  165 

in  a  few  cases,  adopted  the  interests  of  England.  Much 
valuable  property,  thus  secreted,  was,  by  the  agency  of 
these  loyalists,  exposed  to  the  British  officials,  and  seized 
and  confiscated.  Earlier  than  these  final  disasters,  strange 
and  unexpected  trials  gathered  about  the  path  of  Gilli- 
land,  accumulating  additional  cares  and  anxieties.  The 
perils  and  exigencies  of  the  times  demanded  the  most 
active  vigilance,  and  often  subjected  the  patriotic  to  unjust 
suspicions  and  unworthy  surveillance.  Although  the  pa 
triotism  of  Gilliland  had  been  the  most  zealous,  and  mani 
fested  by  such  efficient  services,  he  was  not  exempt  from 
the  consequences  of  these  jealousies.  The  acts  of  the 
tenants,  whose  defection  we  have  noticed,  and  over 
whom  he  was  supposed  to  exercise  an  absolute  control, 
reflected  upon  him  suspicion.  Formal  charges  were  pre 
ferred  against  him  by  Colonel  Hartley,  in  July,1  but 
these  imputations  seem  to  have  been  satisfactorily  ex 
plained.2 

This  difficulty  could  scarcely  have  been  composed,  when 
an  incident  transpired  that  involved  far  more  serious  and 
enduring  consequences.  While  Arnold  was  cruising  on 
the  lake,  as  we  have  already  mentioned,  the  soldiers  and 
sailors,  attached  to  the  fleet,  were  permitted  to  land  at  the 
plantations  of  Gilliland,  and  in  the  "  most  impudent  and 
licentious  manner,"  committed  destructive  ravages  upon  his 
own,  and  the  crops  and  property  of  his  tenants.  These 
acts,  Gilliland  evidently  believed,  were  perpetrated  with 
Arnold's  complicity,  and  yet  on  the  1st  of  September,  he 
addressed  to  Arnold  a  letter  on  the  subject,  clothed  with 
the  most  courteous  and  respectful  language.  He  earnestly 
complained  of  the  depredations,  and  submitted  a  statement 
of  the  crops  and  property  that  had  been  seized  and  conveyed 
away.3  The  amount  was  not  only  in  itself  considerable, 
but  at  the  time  and  under  the  circumstances,  the  losses 
could  not  be  retrieved.  A  month  elapsed,  and  Arnold 
had  returned  no  response,  while  it  seems  the  outrages  were 

1  American  Archives,  5th  series,  i,  564.        2  Idem.        8  Idem,  n,  102. 


166  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

continued.  Gilliland,  always  impetuous  and  resolute,  and 
revolting  at  injustice,  appealed  to  General  Gates.  The  let 
ter  of  Gilliland  was  then  communicated  to  the  commander- 
in-chief,  accompanied  with  charges  by  Arnold  against 
Gilliland,  of  disloyalty  and  fraud  upon  the  government. 
The  frivolous  and  malignant  character  of  these  charges 
are  apparent  from  the  documents  themselves.1  Gilliland, 
in  his  remarkable  memorial  to  congress,  alleges,  "  that 
Arnold  sent  a  party  of  soldiers  to  tear  your  memorialist 
from  his  property,  dignifying  him  with  an  officer  for  a  com 
mander,  whose  rank  was  so  high  as  a  sergeant,  with  pri 
vate  orders  not  to  allow  him  to  remove  any  of  his  property." 
In  this  manner  Gilliland  was  conducted  a  prisoner  to  head 
quarters,  but  no  evidence  exists  that  further  proceedings 
were  prosecuted  on  these  charges  against  him,  and  from 
the  letter  from  Gates  to  Arnold,  it  appears  that  he  was 
dismissed.2 

In  another  part  of  the  same  memorial  which  was  addressed 
to  Congress  in  1777,  Gilliland  bursts  into  a  magnificent 
and  scourging  invective  of  Arnold,  which,  if  it  were  the 
only  memorial  we  possess  of  the  moral  and  intellectual 
qualities  of  Gilliland,  would  stamp  him  a  man  of  extraordi 
nary  character.  Arnold,  when  this  denunciation  was  utter 
ed,  was  in  the  zenith  of  his  fame  and  influence,  yet  Gilliland 
boldly  proclaimed  before  the  highest  tribunal  of  the  nation 
his  rapacity  and  perversion  of  power,  and  almost  animated 
by  the  spirit  of  prophecy  delineates  his  character  with  a 
fearless  and  unfaltering  hand  as  striking  as  is  the  eloquence 
and  vehemence  of  his  language.  He  exclaims  after  glancing 
at  his  own  services  and  losses  and  describing  his  arrest: 
"  Gen.  Arnold  is  your  servant ;  all  the  power  and  authority 
he  has  is  derived  from  you  and  that  has  enabled  him  to 
commit  the  acts  of  tyranny  and  outrage  upon  your  memorial- 


1  American  Archives,  n,  592.  All  the  documents  bearing  on  this  affair  are 
collected  in  The  Pioneer  History  of  the  Champlaiu  Valley,  pages  56  to  68, 
where  the  subject  is  fully  examined  and  discussed. 

*Idem,  ii,  847. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  167 

1st  and  others,  whose  complaints  have  been  laid  before  you. 
It  is  not  in  mine,  but  it  is  in  your  power  to  bring  him  to 
justice.  Bursting  with  pride  and  intoxicated  with  power 
to  which  he  ought  to  have  been  a  stranger,  but  which  he  has 
had  the  art  to  obtain  from  you,  he  t}7rannizes  when  he  can.  If 
temerity,  if  rashness,  imprudence,  and  error  can  recommend 
him  to  you,  he  is  allowed  to  be  amply  supplied  with  these 
qualities,  and  many  people  think,  they  ought  to  recommend 
him  in  a  peculiar  manner  to  Lord  North,  who,  in  gratitude 
for  his  having  done  more  injury  to  the  American  cause 
than  all  the  ministerial  troops  have  the  power  of  doing, 
ought  to  reward  him  with  a  generous  pension." 

Carleton  had  been  employed  during  this  short  period  of 
repose,  with  extraordinary  energy  in  constructing  a  fleet 
and  organizing  a  powerful  land  force.  The  forts  at  St. 
Johns  and  Isle  aux  Noix  were  repaired  and  strengthened, 
and  an  army  of  seven  thousand  veteran  troops,  assembled 
at  those  points,  was  ready  to  advance  against  the  colonies, 
the  moment  the  ascendancy  on  the  lake  should  be  secured. 
Towards  the  middle  of  October,  Carleton  left  his  station  with 
a  fleet,  which  at  that  epoch,  would  have  been  esteemed  re 
spectable  and  even  formidable  in  European  seas.  It  con 
sisted  of  the  Inflexible,  mounting  eighteen  guns ;  the  Maria 
of  fourteen  guns ;  Carleton  of  twelve  guns ;  heavy  radeau  ; 
several  gondolas  and  twenty  gun-boats  and  long-boats 
armed  in  the  efficient  manner  we  have  described.  The 
naval  supervision  was  confided  to  Captain  Pringle,  an  officer 
attached  to  the  royal  navy  and  of  great  experience.  Carle- 
ton  accompanied  the  fleet,  and  controlled  and  guided  its 
operations.  Arnold,  who  had  occupied  with  a  part  of  his 
fleet  a  position  at  the  lower  extremity  of  the  lake,  retired 
on  the  approach  of  Carleton,  and  sought  and  moored  his 
vessels  in  a  secluded  cove  on  the  western  shore  of  Valcour 
island,  situated  between  the  mouths  of  the  Saranac  and 
Au  Sable  rivers.  The  fleet  collected  at  this  place  in 
cluded  the  sloop  Enterprise,  mounting  ten  guns ;  the  schoon 
ers  Royal  Savage,  twelve  guns,  and  Revenge,  eight  guns ; 
three  galleys,  carrying  each  eight  guns;  and  eight  gondolas, 


168  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

each  mounting  eight  guns.  The  fleet  consisted  of  fifteen 
vessels  bearing  an  armament  of  eighty-four  guns.  The 
disparity  between  the  two  fleets  in  the  number  of  guns  and 
weight  of  metal  was  very  decided,  but  less  unfavorable  to 
the  Americans  than  the  materials  that  formed  the  respect 
ive  crews.  While  the  British  vessels  were  manned  by  ve 
teran  seamen  and  gunners,  the  crews  of  Arnold  were  wholly 
raw  and  unpracticed,  many  of  them  drafts  from  the  regi 
ment  at  Ticonderoga,  and  "  few  of  them  had  ever  been  wet 
with  saltwater."1  But  the  motley  crews  of  Arnold  had  been 
drilled  during  the  short  period  of  their  naval  service,  at 
the  guns  and  in  other  duties,  with  the  utmost  care  and  as 
siduity,  and  were  animated  by  the  loftiest  heroism. 

The  position  selected  by  Arnold  afforded  almost  a  per 
fect  concealment  to  his  fleet,  from  the  observation  of 
vessels  passing  up  the  lake  by  the  usual  track,  which 
was  through  the  centre  of  the  lake,  and  east  of  Yalcour. 
We  are  left  to  mere  conjecture,  as  to  the  motives  of  Arnold, 
which  prompted  this  manoeuvre.  Possibly,  he  may  have 
designed,  when  the  British  vessels  had  passed  up  the  lake 
in  an  illusory  pursuit  of  the  American  fleet,  to  strike  some 
audacious  blow  in  their  rear,  suggested  by  his  bold  and 
fertile  mind.  The  cove  in  which  the  American  vessels 
were  lying,  was  directly  opposite  the  dwelling  of  a  settler 
named  Hays,  situated  on  the  mainland.  With  this 
family,  Arnold  had  formed  intimate  relations,  and  ar 
ranged  with  them  to  present  a  signal  when  they  dis 
cerned  the  approach  of  the  enemy.  Pringle,  on  the  llth 
of  October,  had  advanced  beyond  Valcour  to  the  south, 
before  he  became  aware  of  the  position  of  Arnold.  His 
course  was  immediately  changed,  in  order  to  reach  the 
American  fleet;  but  the  purpose  was  frustrated  by  the 
direction  of  the  wind.  The  British  gun-boats,  however, 
soon  after  supported  by  the  Carleton,  were  able  to  ap 
proach  so  near  as  to  commence  an  attack.  Arnold  mean 
while  had  arranged  his  vessels  in  a  line  across  the  narrow 

1  Arnold  to  Gates. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY. 

strait  between  Valcour  to  the  mainland.  The  Royal 
Savage,  with  three  galleys,  advanced  in  front  of  the  Ame 
rican  lines,  and  was  engaged  for  some  time  in  a  sharp 
conflict  with  a  part  of  the  enemy's  fleet.  The  schooner 
was  severely  crippled,  and  in  attempting  to  fall  back, 
grounded  upon  a  point  of  land  near  the  south  end  of 
Valcour,  was  abandoned  by  her  crew,  and  during  the 
night  burnt  by  the  British.  The  papers  and  wardrobe  of 
Arnold  were  lost  on  board  of  this  vessel.1 

The  engagement  immediately  involved  the  whole  Ame 
rican  fleet,  and  commencing  a  little  after  meridian  was 
maintained  more  than  four  hours  with  unfaltering  ardor 
and  resolution.  Arnold  was  on  board  the  galley  Congress, 
and  fought  with  his  characteristic  impetuosity,  pointing 
almost  every  gun  himself,  and  inspiring  the  conduct  of  the 
crew  by  his  example  and  voice.  Waterbury,  in  the  galley 
Washington,  and  Wigglesworth  on  board  the  Trumbull, 
emulated  the  spirit  of  Arnold.  Waterbury,  at  the  close  of 
the  action,  was  the  only  officer  on  the  Washington  capable 
of  duty,  and  most  of  the  other  vessels  suffered  with  equal 
severity.  The  gondola,  Philadelphia,  sank  soon  after  the 
engagement.  A  body  of  Indians  was  landed  on  the 
island,  and  maintained  a  constant  but  ineffective  fire  upon 
the  American  vessels.  Another  body  of  the  savages  lay  in 
ambush  on  the  mainland  prepared  to  seize  any  of  the 
crews  of  Arnold's  fleet,  who  might  attempt  to  escape. 

The  damages  inflicted  upon  the  British  vessels  engaged 
were  also  extremely  heavy.  Two  gondolas  were  sunk, 
and  another  blown  up  in  the  engagement,  with  the  loss, 

1  This  circumstance  lias  proved  the  prolific  source  of  popular  speculation 
in  reference  to  the  contents  of  the  vessel.  Forgetting  the  extreme  poverty 
of  the  Continental  congress  at  that  epoch,  innumerable  attempts  have  been 
made  to  secure  the  treasures  she  was  supposed  to  have  been  freighted  with. 
Efforts  have  been  made  to  raise  the  wreck,  and  skillful  divers  have  examined 
her  cabin  and  hold.  She  was  scarcely  submerged  eight  feet  in  low  water, 
and  was  distinctly  visible.  "  During  the  prevalence  of  remarkably  low 
water  in  the  summer  of  1868,  Captain  George  Conn  anchored  his  vessel 
above  the  wreck  and  with  grappling  irons  succeeded  in  wrenching  several 
large  pieces  of  oak  plank  from  its  sides.  The  wood  is  as  black  as  ebony 


170  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

as  Arnold  reported,  of  sixty  men.1  Pringle,  having  been 
disappointed  in  his  efforts  to  bring  his  larger  vessels  into 
the  action,  at  5  o'clock  p.  M.,  withdrew  those  engaged,  and 
formed  a  close  line  beyond  the  range  of  the  American 
guns,  stretching  from  Garden  island  towards  the  western 
shore  of  the  lake.  It  was  his  intention  to  renew  the  attack 
in  the  morning.2 

Although  no  body  of  men  have  ever  exhibited  in  any 
naval  battle  higher  traits  of  zeal  and  resolution,  it  was 
evident  to  the  American  officers  that  resistance  to  the 
united  strength  of  the  British  fleet  would  be  hopeless  and 
unavailing.  Arnold  adopted  the  prompt  and  daring  deter 
mination  to  attempt  an  escape,  and  to  seek  protection 
beneath  the  guns  of  Crown  point.  As  soon  as  the  darkness 
secured  concealment  to  the  movement,  the  American  fleet 
commenced  its  perilous  operation.  The  Trumbull  led, 
followed  by  the  other  vessels  in  a  single  line.  Each  vessel 
carried  at  her  stem  a  light,  to  guide  the  one  that  followed 
her.  The  fleet,  silently  and  unmolested,  passed  around 
the  north  end  of  Valcour  and  early  in  the  morning  reached 
Schuyler's  island,  a  distance  of  nine  miles.  At  this  place, 
the  shattered  condition  of  the  vessels  compelled  Arnold 
to  lay  to  and  repair.  Two  of  the  gondolas  were  here 
abandoned  and  sunk.  With  the  remnant  of  the  fleet  he 
again  sailed  in  the  hope  of  reaching  Crown  point,  but  the 
wind  had  veered  into  the  south,  and  baffled  his  design. 

and  almost  as  heavy.— Pittsburgh  Republican.  It  is  represented,  that 
the  bottom  of  the  lake  in  the  vicinity  is  strewn  with  balls  and  bullets,  the 
latter  white  and  glistening  by  the  attrition  of  the  sand.  Many  interesting 
relics,  among  them  a  bursted  cannon,  have  been  raised  and  preserved  from 
this  wreck. 

1  Arnold  to  Sclmyler,  Oct.  15th. 

3  This  picturesque  island  lies  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile  south  of  Valcour, 
and  in  the  legends  of  the  lake  is  an  object  of  considerable  interest.  It  is 
circular  in  form,  with  steep  rocky  shores,  which,  it  is  represented,  renders 
it  inaccessible  except  at  one  point.  It  embraces  half  an  acre  of  land,  and 
tradition  asserts  that  its  name  is  derived  from  the  fact  that  it  was  cultivated 
first  by  the  French  and  afterwards  by  the  English  officers  stationed  upon 
the  lake,  as  a  garden.  Until  recently,  it  is  stated  by  those  who  have  visited 
the  spot,  that  garden-beds  and  other  artificial  arrangement  might  readily 
be  traced  on  the  surface. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  171 

The  first  dawn  of  light  revealed  the  escape  of  the  Ame 
rican  fleet  to  the  vigilant  foe,  and  an  instant  pursuit  ensued. 
A  naked  and  solitary  rock,  standing  in  the  midst  of  the  lake, 
immediately  east  of  Valcour,  and  then  shrouded  in  the  mist 
of  an  autumnal  morning,  it  is  the  general  received  tradition, 
was  mistaken  for  an  American  vessel,  and  a  cannonade 
directed  against  it.  The  rocky  islet  is  still  known  as 
Carleton's  prize.  While  the  progress  of  Arnold  was  re 
tarded  by  a  light  and  contrary  wind,  a  breeze  from  the 
north-east  which  was  first  felt  by  the  British,  aided  in  the 
pursuit,  by  their  fresh  ships,  of  the  disabled  American  fleet. 
The  Washington,  more  shattered  than  any  other  of  the 
fleet,  was  overtaken  near  Split  rock,  and,  after  receiving  a 
few  broadsides,  surrendered.  Four  vessels,  including  a 
gondola,  escaped  in  safety  to  Crown  point.  One  galley  was 
blown  up  by  her  commander.  A  single  gondola,  beside 
the  Washington,  was  the  only  trophy  secured  by  the 
enemy.  After  the  capture  of  the  Washington  by  the 
Maria  and  Inflexible,  those  ships  aided  the  Carleton  in  a 
combined  attack  upon  Arnold's  vessel,  the  galley  Congress. 
He  maintained  during  a  running  fight  of  four  hours  a 
spirited  contest,  enveloped  by  this  irresistible  superiority  of 
force,  and  when  he  could  no  longer  hope  for  success  or 
escape,  with  sails  and  hull  of  the  galley  torn  and  shattered, 
he  ran  her,  accompanied  by  four  gondolas,  ashore  on  the 
beach  at  Panton,  Vermont.  The  crews  he  ordered  to  wade 
or  swim  to  the  shore  and  armed  with  muskets  arrest  the 
approach  of  the  enemy's  small  boats,  while  he  remained 
upon  the  galley  the  last  man,  and  until  the  conflagration 
had  advanced  too  far  to  be  extinguished.  The  flags  were 
not  lowered,  but  were  consumed  and  the  whole  flotilla 
wrapped  in  flames.1  Their  charred  and  blackened  wrecks 
remained  upon  the  beach  at  Panton,2  monuments  of  his 
gallantry  and  patriotism,  long  after  other  deeds  had  con- 

1  Sp  arks' s  Life  of  Arnold. 

2  The  remains  of  these  wrecks  are  still  visible,  and  within  a  few  years 
interesting  relics  have  been  recovered.     I  have  in  my  own  possession,  bullets 
which  were  taken  from  them. 


172  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

signed  the  name  of  Arnold  to  ignominy.  Arnold,  when 
he  had  witnessed  the  successful  destruction  of  the  vessels, 
led  their  crews  rapidly  through  the  wilderness  to  Crown 
point,  and  by  the  activity  of  his  movement  escaped  an 
Indian  force,  which  was  pursuing  him. 

The  killed  and  wounded  of  the  Americans  in  both 
engagements,  were  about  ninety,  and  the  loss  of  the 
British,  including  those  involved  in  the  explosion,  was 
nearly  the  same.  The  conduct  of  Arnold  and  his  sub 
ordinates,  alike  in  fighting  and  maneuvering  the  fleet, 
and  the  unsurpassed  bravery  of  the  crews,  extorted  the 
highest  admiration  of  their  conquerors,  and  although  their 
heroism  had  been  unavailing,  aroused  the  warmest  enthu 
siasm  and  exultation  of  their  countrymen.  Carleton,  after 
securing  the  victory,  manifested  his  wonted  clemency  and 
conciliation.  The  wounded  Americans  received  the  most 
tender  care  of  his  own  surgeons;  to  the  prisoners  he 
expressed  the  warmest  encomiums  upon  their  intrepidity, 
with  regrets  that  it  was  expended  in  an  evil  and  desperate 
cause;  he  relieved  their  wants  and  dismissed  them  on 
parole.  This  humane  and  politic  deportment  impressed 
and  won  the  regard  and  gratitude  of  these  men  to  an 
extent  that  rendered  their  communications  with  the  army 
unsafe,  and  without  being  permittted  to  land  at  the  forts, 
they  were  at  once  sent  into  the  interior.1 

The  British  forces,  immediately  after  the  success  of  the 
fleet,  had  opened  the  pathway  of  the  lake,  commenced 

1 1  think  the  version  I  have  given  in  the  text,  although  not  in  accordance 
-with  the  common  impression,  is  warranted  by  the  facts  as  they  appear  in 
documents,  and  which  were  corroborated  by  the  information  I  have  person 
ally  derived  from  those  who  were  familiar  with  the  occurrences  of  that 
.era.  Mr.  Palmer,  in  his  History  of  Lake  Champlain,  adopts  the  same  view. 
The  circumstances  connected  with  the  Hays  family  were  communicated 
to  me  by  Mrs.  Elmore,  a  daughter  of  Mr.  Hays,  who  has  deceased  within 
a  few  years  at  a  venerable  age.  She  was  an  infant  in  her  mother's  arms  at 
the  time  of  the  engagement.  The  signal  mentioned  according  to  the  tradi 
tion  in  her  family,  was  a  sheet  displayed  from  a  window.  While  the  battle 
raged  Mrs.  Hays  carrying  her  infant,  went  to  a  spring  in  a  ravine  near 
the  luie,  which  was  then  mantled  by  a  dense  thicket.  To  her  unutterable 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  173 

their  advance.     General  Gates,  who  was  in  the  immediate 
command  of  the  American  troops  in  that  department,  had 
augmented,  by  every  expedient,  the  strength  and  efficiency 
of  the  works  at  Ticonderoga.     The  army  embraced  from 
eight  to  ten  thousand  men.    On  the  approach  of  Carleton, 
Crown  point  was  evacuated  by  the  small  detachment  by 
which  it  had  been  occupied,  and  the  British  general,  on 
the  14th  of  October,  took  possession  of  that  important 
post  without  opposition.     He  remained  in  the  occupation 
of  the  fort,  which  he  diligently  fortified,  as  well  as  the 
works  at  Chimney  point,  until  the  3d  of  November.    The 
interval  was  employed  in  either  feigned  or  real  preparation 
for  the  attack  of  Ticonderoga.     Cautious  and  thorough 
examination  revealed  so  great  strength  in  the  lines  and 
fort,  and  such  perfect  arrangement  to  meet  an  assault,  that 
Carleton   was   constrained   to   abandon  the   design,  and 
retired  into  Canada  for  winter  quarters.     This  decision 
was  eminently  judicious.    The  precautions  of  Washington 
had  caused  all  the  cattle  and  horses,  which  might  afford 
food  or  means  of  transportation,  to  be  removed  from  the 
reach  of  the  enemy ;  Carleton  felt  that  the  vicinity  of  a 
formidable  American  army,  animated  by  extreme  ardor,, 
would  be  eminently  hazardous  to  his  exposed  and  isolated 
position,  while  the  interrupted  or  suspended  navigation 
during  the  winter  would  virtually  cut  off  all  intercourse 
with  Canada.     Upon  such  considerations  he  adopted  the 
policy  of  retreating,  which  subjected  him  to  severe  and 
unjust  strictures.     When  the  approach  of  Carleton  was 


surprise  and  terror,  she  found  herself  in  the  midst  of  a  large  body  of  Indians 
hideous  by  their  war  paint  and  savage  costume,  and  armed  with  guns  and 
tomahawks.  The  mother,  agitated  and  alarmed  at  her  helpless  condition, 
and  frantically  clasping  the  child  to  her  breast,  wept  bitterly.  An  aged 
chief,  she  judged  from  his  appearance,  approached,  and  unable  to  communi 
cate  consolation  or  an  assurance  of  safety  by  language,  manifested  Ms  pur 
pose  of  protecting  her  by  gently  and  in  a  soothing  manner  wiping  away 
her  tears  with  the  skirt  of  his  shirt.  Neither  the  mother  nor  child  was  mo 
lested.  The  motive  of  the  ambush  was  doubtless  that  assigned  in  the  text ;: 
but  I  infer  from  this  account,  that  no  attack  on  the  fleet  was  made  by  the 
Indians  from  the  mainland. 


174  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

apprehended,  Gates  had  made  an  earnest  appeal,  through 
Colonel  Warner,  to  Vermont  for  support  in  both  men  and 
provisions.  This  appeal  was  responded  to  with  great 
promptness  and  efficiency.  Flour  and  grain  were  imme 
diately  transmitted,  while,  with  equal  alacrity,  two  regi 
ments  marched  to  reenforce  Ticonderoga.  When  Carleton 
retreated,  these  troops  were  discharged,  with  warm 
acknowledgments  for  their  "  spirit  and  alertness "  by 
Gates,  in  an  official  document  addressed  to  their  com 
manders. 


CHAPTER  XL 

THE  INVASION,  1777-1782. 

The  energies  of  England  had  been  occupied  more  than 
a  year  in  the  organization  of  a  large  and  perfectly  equipped 
army  in  Canada,  with  the  design  of  hurling  an  irresistible 
force  upon  the  insurgent  colonies.  Burgoyne,  who  had 
attained  a  high  European  reputation,  succeeded  Carleton 
in  the  command  of  this  army.  The  wise  and  generous 
qualities  of  the  latter  had  suggested  measures,  not  in  ac 
cordance  with  the  policy  of  the  administration.  The  corps 
destined  to  this  service  were  assembled  at  St.  Johns  and 
Isle  aux  Noix,  and  consisted  of  various  British  and  German 
regiments,  aggregating  more  than  seven  thousand  effective 
troops,  besides  Canadian  irregulars  and  the  hordes  of  sa 
vages,  that  had  been  summoned  and  were  expected  to  join 
the  British  standard.  A  magnificent  park  of  artillery  and 
an  ample  supply  of  munitions  augmented  its  efficiency. 
The  officers  who  led  this  array  under  the  commander-in- 
chief,  were  skillful  and  experienced,  and  vast  expectations 
had  been  formed  of  the  results  of  the  expedition.  The 
Hessians,  a  general  term  applied  to  all  the  German  merce 
naries,  were  at  first  objects  of  extreme  terror  and  solicitude 
to  the  American  people.  Clothed  in  uncommon  vestures, 
speaking  a  harsh  and  strange  language,  with  manners  rude 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  175 

and  severe,  rumor  imputed  to  them  a  character  the  most 
ferocious  and  cruel.  But  grown  familiar  with  these  new 
enemies,  the  people  overcame  this  dread,  and  regarding 
them  as  the  hirelings  of  tyranny  purchased  of  German 
despots,  to  trample  down  American  liberty,  they  animated 
hatred  and  excited  disgust,  while  their  presence  tended  to 
stimulate  enthusiasm  and  to  confirm  every  purpose  of  re 
sistance.  Generals  Phillips,  Frazer,  Powell  and  Hamilton 
commanded  the  British  troops,  and  Riedesel  and  Specht 
the  German  auxiliaries.  Early  in  June,  1777,  this  brilliant 
army  moved  from  St.  Johns  in  boats,  and  arrived  on  the 
banks  of  the  Boquet  and  took  position  at  the  deserted 
settlement  of  Gilliland,  which  had  been  designated  by 
Burgoyne  as  the  place  of  junction  with  his  Indian 
allies.  He  paused  here  ten  days,  which  were  employed  in 
a  reconnaissance  of  Ticonderoga  in  reorganizing  his  forces 
and  in  drilling  the  boatmen  on  the  estuary  of  the  river  in 
the  evolutions  incident  to  their  duties  upon  the  waters  ot 
the  lake,  and  possibly  in  the  visions  of  hope  upon  those  of 
the  Hudson.1 

On  the  21st,  Burgoyne  held  his  celebrated  treaty  with 
the  Indian  tribes.  The  summons  of  the  Brilish  com 
mander,  was  responded  to  in  far  greater  numbers,  than  he 
had  either  expected  or  desired.  A  redoubt  which  had  been 
erected  on  an  eminence  below  the  village  and  impending 
over  the  river  was  signalized  by  this  picturesque  and  im 
pressive  spectacle.  The  operations  of  agriculture  have 
now  obliterated  all  vestiges  of  this  work,  although  until 
recently  its  lines  could  be  distinctly  traced.  These  hordes 
were  addressed  by  Burgoyne  in  a  speech  intended  professedly 
to  restrain  their  ferocity,  but  calculated  by  its  influence  to 
inflame  their  savage  passions.  A  war  chief  of  the  Iroquois 
replied  with  equal  vehemence,  pledging  the  tribes  to  a 
zealous  warfare  against  the  foes  of  England.  A  feast  was 
held,  a  war  dance  celebrated,  and  the  merciless  savages 
were  let  loose  upon  the  colonies. 

1  0.  F.  Sheldon's  Manuscript. 


176  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

The  speech  of  Burgoyne  at  the  Boquet  and  his  subse 
quent  proclamation  from  Putnam's  creek,  which  was 
regarded  as  an  exposition  of  the  actual  purpose  of  this 
Indian  treaty,  aroused  a  wide  attention.  The  formal  and 
recognized  employment  of  the  savages,  and  the  direction 
of  the  tomahawk  and  scalping  knife  against  a  people,  kin 
dred  in  language,  in  religion  and  civilization,  revolted  the 
moral  sentiment  of  the  Christian  world,  and  evoked  the 
severest  denunciations  in  the  British  parliament.  No 
measure,  not  even  the  subsidizing  of  the  Hessian,  so  fully 
harmonized  the  popular  heart  of  America  and  precipi 
tated  with  such  perfect  union,  the  infuriated  yeomanry  of 
New  England  upon  the  British  entrenchments  at  Saratoga 
and  Beunington.  Burgoyne,  as  the  instrument  of  this 
ruthless  warfare,  was  in  America  the  object  of  universal 
detestation. 

Forgetting  the  character  of  his  auditors,  Burgoyne,  in 
well  chosen  and  sonorous  periods,  expatiated  on  mercy 
and  forbearance;  explained  the  nice  distinctions  between 
enemies  in  the  field,  and  the  unarmed  and  inoffensive 
citizen ;  and  between  political  friends  and  armed  foes ; 
but  at  the  same  time  stimulated  the  ardor  and  activity  of 
his  savage  allies,  in  the  prosecution  of  a  sanguinary  war 
fare.  He  severely  denounced  the  practice  of  cruelty 
against  any  class;  offered  rewards  for  prisoners,  and 
sternly  forbade  the  taking  of  scalps  from  the  living,  or 
even  the  dying,  but  by  a  strange  infatuation,  allowed  them 
to  be  torn  from  the  dead  on  the  field  of  battle.  As  if  the 
subtle  Indians  would  hesitate  to  bring  the  prisoner,  the 
wounded  and  dying,  within  the  scope  of  this  provision. 
Could  these  admonitions  of  mercy  follow  the  fierce  savage 
raging  amid  an  hostile  people  ;  or  would  these  metaphysi 
cal  distinctions  be  regarded  in  the  heat  and  tumult  of  the 
battle  ?  Subsequent  events  revealed  the  fallacy  of  these 
humane  professions,  and  the  proclamation  of  the  29th  of 
June,  exhibits  in  its  barbarous  and  bloody  threats  of  In 
dian  atrocities,  the  insincerity  of  the  admonitions,  and 
the  convictions  of  Burgoyne  of  the  futility  of  the  restraints 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  177 

he  professed  to  impose,  and  the  hollowness  of  the  Indian 
assurances  -  of  obedience.  While  the  arrogance  and  in 
flated  grandiloquence  of  this  manifesto  amused  the  intelli 
gence  and  disgusted  the  taste  of  the  colonists,  it  aroused 
an  unconquerable  hostility  to  England,  that  was  never 
extinguished.  Europe  was  everywhere  shocked  by  its 
monstrous  spirit,  and  afterwards,  when  arraigned  at  the 
tribunal  of  popular  sentiment,  in  England,  for  the  dishonor 
it  had  attached  to  the  British  name,  Burgoyne  was  able 
to  offer  no  other  apology  or  extenuation,  than  that  its 
language  was  intended  only  for  intimidation  and  effect. 

The  command  of  the  northern  department  of  the  repub 
lican  army  was  held  by  General  Schuyler,  while  the  direct 
charge  of  Ticonderoga  and  the  works  of  defense  connected 
with  that  fortress  were  confided  to  Arthur  St.  Glair,  a  major- 
general  in  the  service  of  congress,  an  officer  of  great  ex 
perience  and  marked  ability,  but  singularly  unfortunate 
in  his  military  enterprises.  These  fortifications,  while 
they  should  be  maintained  by  the  Americans,  formed  an 
insuperable  barrier  to  the  progress  of  Burgoyne.  The 
infinite  importance  of  preserving  them  was  felt  by  the 
congress,  but  unhappily  its  resources  were  inadequate  to 
the  exigency  of  the  occasion.  The  extent  and  magnitude 
of  these  works  demanded  a  garrison  of  ten  thousand  effec 
tive  men  with  sufficient  armament  and  supplies  for  their 
appropriate  occupation,  and  yet  when  the  British  army 
appeared  at  Crown  point,  Schuyler  had  succeeded  with  all 
the  energies  and  efforts  he  was  able  to  exert,  in  collecting 
a  force  in  the  whole  department  of  only  five  thousand 
troops,  of  which  about  three  thousandwere  scattered  through 
ths  defenses  entrusted  to  St.  Glair.  One-third  of  this 
feeble  force  was  composed  of  militia  imperfectly  equipped 
and  armed,  and  nearly  destitute  of  bayonets  to  their 
insufficient  muskets. 

In  another  page  we  have  already  described  the  peninsula 

at  Ticonderoga;  but  twenty  years  had  produced  important 

changes  in  the  arrangement  of  the  works,  their  capacity 

and  extent.     The  old  French  lines,  which  were  so  success- 

12 


178  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

fully  defended  by  Montcalm,  bad  been  strengthened  by 
additional  erections  and  by  a  block-house.  The  landing 
at  Lake  George,  and  the  saw  mills,  where  new  works  had 
been  constructed,  were  occupied  by  feeble  detachments. 
A  small  fort  erected  on  Mt.  Hope,  a  commanding  emi 
nence  in  this  vicinity,  guarded  the  left  of  the  American 
lines.  The  new  works,  the  most  effective  and  upon  which 
the  Americans  placed  the  greatest  reliance,  were  erected 
on  Mt.  Independence,  a  high  circular  hill  situated  on  the 
eastern  shore  of  the  lake  and  directly  opposite  Fort  Caril 
lon.  On  the  summit  of  this  elevation,  a  star  fort  had  been 
constructed,  enclosing  a  large  square  barrack.  This  fort 
was  heavily  fortified  and  well  supplied  with  artillery. 
The  base  of  the  hill  and  its  precipitous  sides,  were  care 
fully  entrenched  and  lined  with  artillery.  The  distance 
between  Ticonderoga  and  Mt.  Independence  was  about 
fifteen  hundred  yards.  These  two  positions  were  con 
nected  by  a  floating  bridge,  which  had  been  erected  by 
enormous  labor  and  expenditure.  The  structure  was 
supported  by  twenty-two  sunken  piers  of  immense  size,  and 
placed  at  intervals.  These  spaces  were  filled  with  separate 
floats,  each  about  fifty  feet  long  and  twelve  feet  wide. 
The  whole  was  firmly  united  by  heavy  chains  which  were 
closely  rivetted.  To  protect  this  work,  which  was  of  the 
last  importance  to  the  safety  of  the  whole  position,  from 
the  attacks  of  the  enemy's  naval  force,  a  boom,  formed  of 
enormous  timbers,  connected  by  chains  and  bolts  of  im 
mense  size,  was  constructed  on  the  northern  or  lake  side 
of  the  bridge.1 

Another  point  still,  had  engaged  the  attention  of  the 
American  engineers.  This  was  Mt,  Defiance,  which  rises 
to  an  altitude  of  seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  and  forms 
a  bold,  rocky  promontory  at  the  confluence  of  Lake 
Champlain  and  the  outlet  of  Lake  George,  and  is  laved 
by  both  waters.  This  eminence  is  about  one  thousand 

1  Thompson,  in  the  History  of  Vermont,  states,  that  this  bridge,  when  Bur- 
goyne  approached,  was  in  an  unfinished  condition. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  179 

and  four  hundred  yards  distant  from  Ticonderoga  and 
separated  from  Mt.  Independence  by  fifteen  hundred  yards, 
and  by  its  position  and  greater  height  commanded  both 
works.  The  imagined  impregnability  of  these  works 
would  at  once  fail,  in  the  event  of  this  eminence  being 
occupied  by  a  hostile  battery.  St.  Clair  had  been  ap 
prized  of  this  momentous  fact  by  the  examination  of  the 
preceding  year.  Pont  Le  Roy,  the  engineer  of  Montcalm, 
evidently  referred  to  it  in  the  epigrammatic  utterance  I 
have  quoted ;  and  we  cannot  doubt,  that  the  possession  of 
Ticonderoga  during  more  than  eighteen  years,  had  dis 
closed  the  military  value  of  this  position  to  the  British 
commanders.  But  St.  Clair  was  destitute  of  the  resources 
necessary  for  holding  and  fortifying  the  place,  and  of 
averting  the  impending  danger.  His  feeble  garrison  was 
insufficient  for  the  occupation  of  the  more  prominent  and 
exposed  lines.  He  was  constrained  to  rely  upon  the  hope 
for  the  same  impunity  the  fortress  had  formerly  enjoyed 
from  an  attack  in  that  direction.  Conscious  of  his  weak 
ness  he  could  alone  in  maintaining  the  fortresses  have  con 
templated  creating  a  delay,  which  would  secure  an  infinite 
advantage  to  the  republican  cause,  or  of  a  successful  re 
sistance  to  an  active  assault,  that  he  might  have  antici 
pated  from  the  impetuosity  and  presumption  of  Burgoyne. 
A  fatuity  seems  to  have  rested  upon  the  American  coun 
cils,  in  the  affairs  of  the  Champlairi  frontier.  A  singular 
ignorance  prevailed,  in  reference  to  the  strength  and  move 
ments  of  Burgoyne,  inconsistent  with  the  most  common 
military  skill  and  prudence.  The  people,  the  government 
and  the  commanders,  were  alike  impressed  by  the  convic 
tion,  that  the  menaced  invasion  by  the  waters  of  Cham- 
plain,  was  a  mere  pretext  to  disguise  other  operations,  and 
that  no  competent  force  for  the  purpose  had  been  organized 
in  Canada.  When  its  reality  was  demonstrated,  by  the 
actual  appearance  of  the  British  army,  little  preparation 
had  been  made  to  oppose  its  advance.  On  the  25th  of 
June,  St.  Clair  communicated  to  Schuyler  the  perilous 
circumstances  by  which  he  was  surrounded,  and  reiterates, 


130  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

as  he  asserts,  his  views  of  the  inadequacy  of  his  resources 
and  the  fatal  consequences  which  would  result  from  a  regu 
lar  siege  or  blockade  of  the  works.  This  letter,  three  days 
later,  was  transmitted  to  Washington  hy  Schuyler,  accom 
panied  by  the  representations  of  his  own  utter  inability 
either  to  support  St.  Glair  or  resist  a  prompt  advance  by 
Burgoyne.  The  obvious  and  transparent  error,  which 
involved  so  many  disastrous  consequences,  and  for  which 
all,  who  exerted  a  controlling  influence  upon  the  measure, 
were  in  common,  responsible,  was  the  delay  that  occurred 
in  the  evacuations  of  Ticonderoga  and  its  dependencies.  Had 
that  movement  been  executed  when  its  necessity  was  first 
apparent,  it  might  have  been  conducted  with  a  leisure  and 
circumspection,  that  would  have  secured  the  removal  of 
the  munitions  and  artillery,  and  the  safety  of  the  army, 
without  demoralization.  St.  Glair,  in  a  letter  to  congress, 
alleges,  that  his  instructions  gave  him  no  discretion  in 
reference  to  the  abandonment  of  the  work,  except  from  the 
presence  of  a  last  and  imperious  necessity.1 

While  the  American  affairs  were  involved  in  these 
strange  delusions,  and  paralyzed  by  this  inaction  and  hesi 
tancy,  Burgoyne  had  occupied  Crown  point,  and  with  extra 
ordinary  promptitude  and  vigor  marched  upon  Ticon 
deroga.  On  the  1st  July  he  advanced  in  three  columns. 
The  left  wing  under  Eiedesel  proceeded  along  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  lake,  which  here,  deep  and  narrow,  exhibits 
the  proportions  and  appearance  of  a  river.  He  advanced 
to  East  creek,  a  small  stream,  which,  spreading  out  in  the 
form  of  an  estuary  as  it  enters  the  lake,  washes  the  northern 
base  of  Mt.  Independence.  Burgoyne  himself  embarked 
with  the  centre  column  in  bateaux,  and  convoyed  by  two 
ships  slowly  ascended  the  lake.  Phillips,  with  the  right 
wing,  moved  upon  the  western  side,  and  the  next  day  ex 
tended  his  flank,  threatening  the  outposts  of  St.  Glair.  The 
parties  which  held  the  landing  and  Mt.  Hope  were  ordered 
after  destroying  the  public  property,  and  burning  the  mills, 


Marshall. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY. 

to  fall  back  into  the  American  lines.  The  British  general 
immediately  seized  this  important  post,  and  by  its  occupa 
tion  commanded  a  portion  of  the  remaining  works  and 
effectively  severed  St.  Glair's  communication  with  Lake 
George.1  St.  Glair  resisted  these  operations  by  a  heavy 
cannonade  directed  against  the  several  positions  of  the 
enemy.  While  actively  occupied  in  enveloping  the  Ame 
rican  works  by  a  cordon  of  posts,  Burgoyne  caused  a 
careful  reconnaissance  to  be  made  of  Mt.  Defiance.  The 
result  corroborated  the  opinion  of  the  American  engineer, 
submitted  the  last  year,  and  announced  that  the  ascent  was 
not  only  practicable,  but  that  the  brief  space  of  a  single 
day  was  sufficient  for  the  construction  of  an  available  road 
for  artillery  to  the  summit.  The  fourth  was  devoted  by 
Burgoyne  to  the  landing  of  his  battering  train,  and  the 
concentration  of  his  munitions  and  supplies.  On  the  same 
day,  the  proposed  ascent  of  Mt.  Defiance  was  effected 
with  a  success  only  equaled  by  the  ardor  and  toil  exerted 
in  its  execution,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  8th,  a  battery 
had  been  erected,  and  eight  pieces  of  heavy  artillery 
mounted,  and  ready  to  open  a  plunging  and  insupportable 
fire  upon  the  doomed  garrison. 

St.  Glair  witnessed  these  operations  without  any  power 
to  arrest  them  or  avert  their  consequences,  and  yielded  to 
the  perfect  conviction  that  neither  Ticonderoga  nor  Mt. 
Independence  was  longer  tenable.  The  difficulties  of  his 
perilous  situation  were  enhanced  by  the  fact,  that  only  a 
single  link  now  remained  to  accomplish  the  investment  of 
the  entire  works,  and  to  secure  the  control  of  the  water 
communication  with  Skeensboro'.  Bledesel  was  about 
closing  that  space,  by  stretching  his  forces  from  the  posi 
tion  he  occupied  on  East  creek,  around  Mt.  Independence 
to  the  waters  of  the  narrow  lake  south  of  that  post.  Op- 

1  Mount  Hope  is  situated  near  the  Lower  Falls,  on  the  outlet  of  Lake 
George.  It  is  a  steep  and  rocky  eminence,  and  tradition  asserts,  received  its 
name  from  Phillips,  when  he  seized  it  in  this  campaign.  Vestiges  of  mili 
tary  works  are  still  visible  upon  it,  and  also  the  ruins  of  a  log  bridge,  built 
on  the  occasion. 


182  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

pressed  by  this  gloomy  aspect  of  his  affairs,  the  American 
commander  convened  a  military  council,  which  with  per 
fect  harmony  and  without  hesitation,  concurred  in  the 
opinion,  that  the  works  could  not  be  maintained,  and  that 
an  immediate  evacuation  was  necessary.  The  same  night 
this  resolution  was  executed.  The  sick,  the  hospital  and 
other  stores,  and  all  the  guns,  munitions  and  provisions, 
which  under  the  pressure  of  the  circumstances  could  be 
moved,  were  embarked  in  two  hundred  boats,  which, 
guarded  by  about  six  hundred  men  under  Colonel  Long, 
and  convoyed  by  five  armed  galleys,  proceeded  to  Skeenes- 
boro7.  The  lights  in  the  camp  were  all  extinguished,  and 
caution  and  profound  silence  enjoined.  Prudence  de 
manded  that  during  the  day  no  unusual  movement  in  the 
forts  should  reveal  to  the  enemy,  who  watched  their 
proceedings  from  the  summit  of  Mt.  Defiance,  the  con 
templated  design.  The  short  time  allowed  for  the  execu 
tion  of  the  measure  and  the  obscurity  of  the  night, 
necessarily  created  some  degree  of  haste  and  confusion ; 
but  the  retreat  was  conducted  with  such  skill  and  celerity 
that,  although  the  moon  was  shining  brightly,  it  escaped 
the  observation  of  the  British  sentinels.  St  Glair,  with 
the  leading  column,  crossed  the  bridge  at  2  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  and  was  closely  followed  by  Francis  with  the 
rear  of  the  army.  No  suspicion  of  the  enemy  had  yet 
been  excited,  and  every  circumstance  indicated  the  most 
favorable  results.  But  at  the  moment,  when  these  appear 
ances  were  thus  auspicious,  a  house  on  Mt.  Independence, 
occupied  by  General  de  Fermoy,  was  discovered  to  be  on 
fire.  The  flames  spread  widely,  arid  casting  a  bright  illu 
mination  over  the  scene,  revealed  all  the  movements  of 
the  retreating  army.  The  British  camp  was  instantly 
aroused,  and  the  drum  and  trumpet  sounded  the  alarm 
through  all  its  sections.  The  abandoned  works  were 
immediately  occupied,  and  a  fire  opened  upon  the  rear  of 
the  Americans.  Frazer  led  a  strong  detachment  at  once 
across  the  bridge  which  St.  Clair  had  not  had  time  to  dis 
turb,  and  commenced  a  rapid  and  vigorous  pursuit.  He 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  183 

was  immediately  followed  by  Riedesel  with  his  German 
corps.  With  indefatigable  activity  and  vigor,  Burgoyne,  by 
the  labor  of  a  few  hours,  skillfully  directed,  removed  the 
boom  and  bridge  —  stupendous  fabrics,  that  had  exacted 
a  vast  expenditure  of  money  and  material  and  the  unre 
mitting  toil  of  months.  Early  on  the  morning  of  the  6th, 
these  obstacles  upon  which  the  Americans  had  relied  in 
perfect  confidence,  were  obliterated,  or  sufficiently  dis 
placed  to  allow  the  passage  of  two  ships  and  several  gun 
boats,  which  with  the  utmost  ardor  and  celerity  pursued 
the  American  flotilla.  The  latter  had  reached  its  destina 
tion  in  safety,  and  while  the  troops  were  indulging  in  rest 
and  in  fancied  security  after  the  excessive  labor  and  fatigue 
of  the  retreat,  their  repose  was  suddenly  broken  by  the 
guns  of  Burgoyne,  in  an  attack  at  the  wharves  of  the 
galleys  and  boats.  The  overwhelming  force  of  the  Eng 
lish  rendered  resistance  impossible,  and  having  burnt  or 
destroyed  the  military  works,  the  mills  and  the  bateaux 
with  three  of  the  galleys,  two  had  been  captured  by  Bur 
goyne,  Long  hastily  retreated  in  the  direction  of  Fort  Ann. 
By  this  prompt  and  rapid  movement  he  eluded  a  British 
force  of  three  regiments,  which,  pursuing  the  track  of 
Dieskau,  had  landed  at  the  foot  of  South  bay,  and  ad 
vanced  with  great  celerity  to  the  Fort  Edward  road  for 
the  purpose  of  intercepting  the  retreat.  While  Burgoyne 
achieved  these  signal  successes,  St  Clair  was  pursuing  a 
forced,  and  to  some  extent  disorderly,  march,  towards 
Castleton,  which  he  reached  during  the  night  after  the 
evacuation. 

Three  regiments,  under  Warner,  Francis  and  Hale, 
which  constituted  the  rear  division  of  the  American  army, 
paused  at  Hubbardtou,  in  order  to  reorganize  and  to  collect 
the  stragglers,  who  had  fallen  out  of  the  line  on  the  pre 
cipitate  retreat.  This  force  occupied  a  favorable  position, 
and  it  was  decided  to  await  an  attack.  The  pursuit  of 
Frazer  had  been  eager  and  unremitting.  That  night  he 
lay  on  his  arms  near  the  American  position,  and  early  on 
the  morning  of  the  7th,  without  hesitating  for  the  arrival 


18-4  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

of  Riedesel,  which  was  momentarily  expected,  advanced 
with  ardor  to  the  attack  of  the  American  lines.  The 
command  of  Frazer  embraced  eight  hundred  and  fifty 
veteran  regulars.  The  opposing  force  consisted  of  about 
thirteen  hundred  men,  but  a  large  proportion  of  these  were 
militia;  and  the  inequality  in  numbers  was  speedily  removed 
by  the  retreat  of  Colonel  Bale's  regime  nt.  This  command 
was  composed  mainly  of  the  siek  and  convalescent  in 
capable  of  field  service,  and  Hale,  therefore,  after  a  brief 
though  warm  skirmish  with  the  British  advance,  continued 
his  retreat  towards  Castleton,  but  he  was  intercepted  by  a 
British  column,  and  himself  and  nearly  the  entire  regiment 
were  taken  prisoners.1 

A  long  and  sanguinary  engagement  ensued,  which  was 
conducted  with  skill,  and  fought  with  the  highest  spirit 
and  resolution.  The  battle  of  Hubbardton  has  not  acquired 
the  prominence  in  American  history  or  the  consideration 
from  the  country,  due  to  the  valor  and  sacrifices  by  which 
it  was  signalized.  At  one  period  of  its  changing  aspect, 
when  the  British  line  recoiled  in  disorder  before  the  impetu 
osity  of  the  American  charge,  victory  seemed  assured  to 
the  republican  arms;  but  Frazer  soon  restored  his  ranks 

1  Colonel  Nathan  Hale  commanded  one  of  the  battalions  raised  in  1776  by 
New  Hampshire.  Some  modern  writers,  each  adopting  the  statements 
contained  in  the  narrative  of  Ethan  Allen,  without  apparently  having 
examined  the  subject,  have  imputed  to  Colonel  Hale  misconduct  in  this 
battle,  and  asserted  that  his  command  was  surrendered  without  resistance. 
These  charges,  it  is  alleged,  inflict  unjust  censure  upon  a  brave  soldier  and 
patriotic  citizen.  Gordon.  Williams,  and  other  subordinate  writers  reflect 
the  views  of  Allen,  but  Marshall,  the  most  authentic,  by  the  sources  from 
which  he  received  his  facts,  of  any  historian  of  the  period :  Botta,  Stead- 
man  and  other  authors,  both  American  and  English,  are  silent  on  the  sub 
ject,  and  ascribe  blame  to  no  one.  The  charge  that  Hale  "surrendered 
without  striking  a  blow  "  is  discountenanced,  at  least,  by  the  simple  account, 
bearing  upon  its  face  the  impress  of  truth,  of  one  who  was  present  in  the 
engagement  —  was  wounded  and  taken  prisoner.  The  author,  who  was 
attached  to  Carr's  company  in  Bale's  battalion,  states  that  early  in  the 
morning  of  the  7th,  while  the  troops  were  preparing  their  breakfast,  under 
marching  orders,  the  enemy  suddenly  appear^,  in  line.  The  American 
troops  were  ordered  to  "lay  down  their  packs  .-ad  be  ready  for  action. 
The  firing  immediately  commenced,  and  a  sharp  skirmish  occurred.  Tho 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  185 

and  the  appearance  immediately  after  of  the  Germans  upon 
the  field  decided  the  contest,  and  the  Americans  dispersed 
in  every  direction.  Colonel  Francis  fell  gallantly  at  the 
head  of  his  regiment.  The  aggregate  American  loss  in 
this  warmly  contested  action  was  about  three  hundred, 
and  that  of  the  British  one  hundred  and  eighty-three. 
Warner,  with  his  wonted  decision  and  intrepidty,  reassem 
bled  his  troops  at  Manchester,  and  led  them  to  unite  with 
Schuyler  at  Fort  Edward.  Severe  censure  has  been  attached 
to  St.  Glair,  that  lying  only  six  miles  from  the  field  of  battle 
with  his  detachment,  he  had  not  returned  to  the  support 
of  "Warner  and  Francis.  His  apologists  allege,  that  he 
made  the  most  earnest  efforts  to  do  so,  but  that  the  troops 
who  were  principally  composed  of  militia  regiments,  re 
fused  to  march  to  their  aid. 

The  capture  of  Ticonderoga  was  a  deep  calamity  to  the 
republican  cause.  The  trophies  announced  by  Burgoyne 
to  his  government,  embraced  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
eight  pieces  of  artillery ;  all  the  boats  and  armed  vessels 
in  the  harbors,  and  the  provision  stores  and  munitions. 
The  great  flag  of  the  garrison  was  also  abandoned  in  the 
confusion  of  the  retreat,  and  fell  into  the  enemy's  hands. 
The  intelligence  of  this  event  was  received  in  England  by 

republicans  sought  the  cover  of  trees,  but  "  were  a  few  in  number  in  com 
parison  with  the  enemy."  While  discharging  his  musket,  in  that  position, 
the  author  was  wounded,  and  captured,  when  the  battalion  retreated. — 
Narrative  of  Elenezer  Fletcher.  Belknap,  a  contemporary,  in  his  History 
of  New  Hampshire,  states,  that  "  Colonel  Bale's  battalion  was  ordered  to 
cover  the  rear  of  the  invalids,"  and  the  next  morning  was  attacked  by  the 
advance  of  the  enemy.  Barstow,  in  his  history,  says,  in  allusion  to  this 
event,  "a  sharp  skirmish  ensued,  in  which  Major  Titcomb  (of  Hale's  bat 
talion)  was  wounded."  These  authorities  seem  to  disprove  one  serious 
point  of  the  strictures.  Colonel  Hale  claimed  from  Washington  the  right 
of  being  exchanged,  that  he  might  vindicate  his  conduct  before  a  military 
tribunal,  but  he  died,  while  still  a  prisoner,  before  this  desire  could  be 
gratified. 

The  memory  of  Colonel  Hale  is  entitled  to  the  consideration  due  to  other 
facts.  At  the  commencement  of  the  revolution,  he  was  in  easy  pecuniary 
circumstances.  After  the  battle  of  Lexington,  he  raised  a  company  of 
minute  men,  at  his  own  expense,  and  by  patriotic  sacrifices  like  this,  when 
he  died  in  the  vigor  of  manhood,  he  left  his  family  in  comparative  poverty. 


186  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

the  partisans  of  the  ministry  with  the  most  rapturous 
exultation,  and  confidently  accepted  as  a  propitious  augury 
of  the  final  issue  of  the  contest.  At  no  period  of  the  revo 
lution  did  any  other  disaster  press  upon  the  popular 
heart  in  America,  with  a  more  chilling  and  despondent 
influence.  Surprise  and  astonishment  mingled  with  rage 
and  grief.  The  imputations  of  imbecility,  negligence,  and 
incompetency,  did  not  reach  the  expression  of  public 
sentiment,  but  hostile  and  malignant  tongues  gave  free 
utterance  to  the  terms,  baseness  and  treachery.  Even  the 
serene  and  just  mind  of  Washington  was  disturbed.  St. 
Clair  was  suspended,  and  Schuyler  superseded  in  the 
command  of  the  northern  army,  at  the  moment  when 
success  and  glory  were  about  becoming  the  fruition  of 
his  wise,  skillful,  and  patriotic  measures.  But  time  dis 
persed  the  clouds  that  for  a  period  shadowed  the  fame  of 
these  able  and  devoted  patriots,  and  a  mature  investi 
gation  of  the  facts,  afforded  them  an  ample  and  decisive 
vindication. 

Phillips,  as  soon  as  the  means  of  transportation  could  be 
organized  on  Lake  George,  advanced  with  his  division  to 
Fort  George  and  established  at  that  post  and  also  at  the 
foot  of  the  lake,  depots  of  supplies,  and  the  proximate  base 
of  the  army.  At  Fort  George,  he  found  only  dismantled 
and  naked  walls.  Schuyler,  in  the  judicious  but  stern  policy 
by  which  he  had  rendered  savage  nature  still  more  hideous, 
and  created  in  the  front  of  the  foe  a  waste  and  desolation, 
had  either  destroyed  or  removed  every  material  that  might 
impart  comfort  or  facilities  to  the  invader.  This  narrative 
must  relinquish  to  general  history  the  recital  of  the  future 
progress  and  history  of  Burgoyne,  and  that  great  culminat 
ing  victory,  which  was  not  only  decisive  of  his  career,  but 
decisive  also  of  the  great  contest  of  England  with  her  re 
bellious  colonies. 

While  Burgoyne  was  urging  a  slow  progress  as  he  gra 
dually  surmounted  the  vast  obstacles,  which  the  sagacity 
of  Schuyler  had  interposed,  Lincoln  was  engaged  in  collect 
ing  and  organizing  a  body  of  four  thousand  militia  at 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  187 

Manchester,  Vermont.  The  flank  of  the  British  army  by 
this  movement  was  seriously  menaced.  A  portion  of  these 
troops,  it  was  decided,  should  be  used  in  a  bold  and  im 
portant  operation,  which  was  intended  to  sever  the  commu 
nications  of  Burgoyne,  and  if  possible  to  seize  his  base  at 
Ticonderoga.  Colonel  Johnson,  with  a  party  of  about  five 
hundred  men,  was  detached  by  Lincoln  against  Skeenes- 
boro'  and  Fort  Edward,  but  with  the  special  object  of  co 
vering  the  retreat  of  the  two  other  detachments  led  by 
Brown  and  Woodbury.  Colonel  Brown,  with  a  party  of 
rangers  of  nearly  the  same  strength,  was  instructed  to 
proceed  to  the  landing  on  Lake  George,  to  rescue  Ameri 
can  prisoners  confined  there,  and  having  accomplished  this 
object  to  act  on  the  suggestions  of  his  own  judgment.  He 
crossed  Lake  Champlain  at  the  narrows  above  Ticonderoga, 
and  marching  all  night  conducted  alone  by  the  signals 
emitted  at  short  intervals  by  his  guides,  hoots,  in  imitation 
of  the  owl,  he  traversed  the  rugged  mountain  range  that 
separates  the  two  lakes,  and  toiling  in  the  darkness,  amid 
precipices  and  chasms,  a  distance  of  fourteen  miles,  just  as 
the  day  was  breaking,  burst  upon  the  enemy  at  the  foot  of 
the  lake,  by  a  complete  surprise.  He  captured  without 
resistance  nearly  three  hundred  British  troops,  the  works 
at  Mount  Hope  and  at  the  landing,  and  seized  two  hundred 
bateaux,  an  armed  sloop  and  a  number  of  gun-boats,  which 
had  been  transported  from  Lake  Champlain  with  severe 
toil,  and  were  stationed  here  to  protect  the  carrying  place. 
In  addition  to  these  successes  he  accomplished  the  primary 
object  of  the  expedition  by  liberating  one  hundred  Ame 
rican  prisoners.  Captain  Ebenezer  Allen  had  been  de 
tached  with  a  small  and  resolute  band  by  Brown  to  assail 
the  works  on  Mount  Defiance.  Scaling  cautiously  and  in 
silence  the  precipitous  acclivities  of  the  mountain,  so  steep 
in  one  place  that  the  assailants  were  able  only  to  ascend  by 
climbing  over  the  shoulders  of  each  other,  they  reached  the 
summit  and  captured  the  battery  without  the  discharge  of 
a  single  weapon.  Colonel  Johnson,  with  a  detachment  of 
about  an  equal  number,  arrived  early  the  next  morning  and 


188  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

joined  Brown  before  Ticonderoga.1  The  united  forces 
immediately  invested  the  fortress  and  summoned  General 
Powell,  the  commander  of  the  garrison,  to  surrender.  He 
returned  a  defiant  answer,  and  after  an  ineffectual  cannon 
ade  of  four  days  with  ordnance  too  feeble  to  make  an  im 
pression  upon  the  works,  the  attack  was  abandoned. 
At  the  landing  Brown  embarked  forces  in  the  captured 
boats,  and  ascended  Lake  George  with  the  design  of  seizing 
Diamond  island,  where  Burgoyne  had  deposited  an  im 
mense  quantity  of  stores  arid  munitions. 

Upon  the  surrender  of  Burgoyne,  the  small  garrison  at 
Ticonderoga  dismantled  and  evacuated  the  works,  and,  em 
barking  in  a  few  open  boats,  sought  refuge  and  security 
by  a  silent  and  stealthy  flight  down  the  lake.  This  inglo 
rious  retreat  of  the  relics  of  a  great  host  presented  an  im 
pressive  contrast  to  the  ostentatious  array,  that  a  few  weeks 
before  had  traversed  the  same  waters,  bearing,  as  if  in  a 
triumphant  procession,  a  vaunting  leader  and  an  army  in 
flamed  by  the  confidence  of  approaching  victory.  These 
fugitives,  however,  did  not  wholly  escape  the  vigilant  eye 
of  the  Americans.  Near  where  the  village  of  Essex  now 
stands  they  were  intercepted  by  Ebenezer  Allen.  He  cut 
oft'  and  captured  several  of  the  rear  boats,  seized  fifty  pri 
soners  and  a  large  amount  of  military  stores,  baggage, 
horses  and  cattle.  Among  the  spoils,  he  captured  a  negro 
slave  with  an  infant  child.  "  Being  conscientious  in  the 
sight  of  God  that  it  is  not  right  to  keep  slaves,"  these  he 
declared  "  to  be  forever  free,"  and  caused  a  certificate  of 
their  freedom  to  be  recorded  in  the  town  clerk's  office  at 
Bennington,  where  it  still  exists.2 

Refugee  tories  and  other  irregulars,  more  ruthless  than 
their  savage  allies,  fugitives  from  the  fate  that  was  impend 
ing  over  the  British  army,  passed  through  in  their  flight 
the  deserted  settlement  on  the  Boquet.  Carleton  and 


1  Several  authorities  assign  the  command  of  the  third  detachment  to  Colo 
nel  Warner.     I  follow  the  statement  of  Marshall. 

3  Butler's  discourse  on  Ebenezer  Allen,  Hall's  Vermont. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  189 

Burgoyne  had  been  merciful  in  their  visitations.  The  ra 
pacity  of  Arnold  and  the  exactions  ot  the  government  had 
spared  the  dwellings  and  structures  of  the  settlers ;  but  these 
gleaners  in  devastation  left  only  ashes  and  desolation  in 
their  track.  Tradition  asserts,  that  they  consigned  to  the 
flames  every  edifice  from  Split  rock  to  the  Boquet  in  a 
wanton  and  merciless  destruction.1  In  November,  1778,  a 
large  British  force,  and  several  armed  vessels  advanced  to 
Ticonderoga,  and  inflicted  a  general  devastation  upon  the 
property  on  both  sides  of  the  lake,  that  had  escaped 
former  ravages. 

In  the  spring  of  1780,  Sir  John  Johnson  organized  at 
Ticonderoga  a  band  of  about  five  hundred  men,  composed 
of  regulars,  a  party  of  his  own  corps  of  Royal  Greens  and 
two  hundred  tories  and  Indians,  and  proceeded  on  ari 
errand,  which,  in  its  spirit  and  purposes,  presented  one  of 
the  most  revolting  scenes  of  this  fratricidal  war.  Penetrat 
ing  the  rude  wilderness  of  mountains,  forests  and  waters, 
which  spreads  westward  from  Lake  George,  he  reached 
and  ascended  the  valley  of  the  Sacondaga.  This  route 
compelled  him  to  cross  a  site,  which  his  father  in  happier 
days  was  accustomed  often  to  visit  in  pursuit  of  relaxation 
and  rural  pastimes.  Recollections  of  youthful  joys  must 
have  welled  up  in  the  memory  of  the  invader,  when  he 
recalled  the  incidents  of  former  years,  associated  with  the 
Fish  house.  An  outlawed  fugitive,  a  dishonored  soldier, 
who  had  violated  his  parole,  he  broke  the  quiet  and  secluded 
repose  of  the  scene,  in  a  mission  of  vengeance  and  blood. 
These  memories  could  not  have  softened  his  vindictive 
passions,  for  he  passed  onward,  unchanged  in  his  fierce 
designs  to  descend  at  midnight  upon  his  native  valley  in  a 
whirlwind  of  rapine  and  flame.  Near  the  baronial  halls  of 
his  father,  the  motley  band  was  divided  into  two  detach 
ments,  that  the  work  of  destruction  might  be  more  tho 
rough  and  widespread.  The  inhabitants  were  slumbering 
in  perfect  security,  ignorant  and  unsuspicious  of  danger. 

1  Sheldon's  Manuscript. 


190  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

A  common  and  indiscriminate  ruin  involved  all  who 
had  adhered  to  the  republican  cause.  Neither  the  former 
friends  nor  aged  associates  of  his  father,  nor  the  com 
panions  of  his  own  boyhood  were  exempt  from  the  uni 
versal  desolation.  There  was  nothing  left  in  a  wide  track 
along  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Mohawk,  where  yesterday 
stood  the  abodes  of  plenty, 

But  a  mass  of  ashes  slaked  with  blood. 

The  professed  object  of  this  pitiless  incursion  was  the 
recovery  of  a  mass  of  valuable  plate,  which  a  faithful  slave 
had  assisted  to  bury  in  1776.  With  silent  and  unwavering 
fidelity  he  had  watched  over  the  deposit,  although  in  the 
confiscation  of  the  Johnson  estate  he  had  been  sold  to 
another  master.  The  plate  was  recovered,  and  distributed 
in  the  knapsacks  of  forty  different  soldiers.  By  this  means 
it  was  all  safely  conveyed  into  Canada.  An  alarm  had 
been  immediately  sounded,  and  the  local  militia,  under 
Coloner  Harper,  beginning  to  assemble,  Sir  John  made  a 
rapid  retreat.  He  bore  with  him  what  plunder  he  was  able 
to  convey,  and  forty  prisoners ;  and  reaching  his  bateaux 
at  Crown  point  returned  to  Canada  in  safety,  successful^ 
evading  the  pursuit  of  Governor  Clinton  aided  by  detach 
ments  from  the  New  Hampshire  grants. 

Major  Carleton,  in  the  autumn  of  the  same  year,  proceeded 
from  St.  Johns  with  a  formidable  fleet,  conveying  more 
than  one  thousand  men.  He  advanced  secretly  and  undis 
covered,  and  on  the  10th  and  llth  of  October,  with  a 
trifling  loss,  captured  Fort  Ann  and  Fort  George.  He 
completely  devastated  the  country  along  his  line  of  march; 
but  the  marked  exemption  of  the  territory  of  Vermont 
from  these  ravages  were  calculated  to  excite  jealousy  and 
apprehension.  This  unimportant  expedition  terminated 
these  hostile  incursions  of  the  enemy  beyond  the  fortresses 
of  Champlain. 

At  this  epoch  was  initiated  the  enigmatical  and  extraor 
dinary  relations,  which  subsisted  for  several  years  between 
the  British  authorities  in  Canada  and  the  government  of 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  191 

Vermont.  The  people  of  the  New  Hampshire  grants  had 
formally  declared  their  independence  in  1777,  and  under 
the  name  of  Vermont  had  assumed  the  attitude  and  prero 
gatives  of  a  sovereign  state.  Any  discussion  of  the  charac 
ter  of  these  relations,  a  subject  that  has  so  nearly  baffled  all 
distinct  and  satisfactory  explanation,  is  foreign  to  our 
purpose,  except  as  the  events  were  interwoven  with  the 
military  history  of  Ticonderoga.  A  glance  at  the  peculiar 
posture  of  Vermont  in  her  domestic  and  public  affairs  is 
necessary,  in  order  to  approach  a  just  appreciation  of  the 
ambiguous  policy  of  her  leaders  at  this  juncture.  A  differ 
ence  of  opinion  even  yet  exists  in  legal  minds,  in  reference 
to  the  legitimacy  of  the  claims  of  New  York  upon  the  New 
Hampshire  grants.  Whatever  may  have  been  the  strength 
or  validity  of  these  claims,  it  is  certain  that  a  deep  and 
bitter  hostility  towards  New  York  was  the  all  pervading 
feeling  of  the  heroic  and  independent  people  who  occupied 
the  territory  in  dispute.  This  sentiment  was  stimulated  by 
the  sincere  conviction,  that  these  claims  were  unjust,  and 
that  Vermont  hud  endured  great  wrong  from  the  grasping 
injustice  and  oppression  of  her  more  powerful  neighbor. 
To  evade  the  real  or  imaginary  evils  which  were  impend 
ing  from  this  source,  and  to  escape  the  political  absorption 
which  they  believed  was  contemplated  by  New  York,  was 
the  inexorable  determination  of  the  remarkable  body  of 
men,  who  at  that  period  guarded  the  policy  of  Vermont. 
With  them,  the  purpose  was  paramount  to  every  other  consi 
deration.  The  devotion  of  these  leaders,  in  common  with 
all  the  population  of  the  grants,  to  the  cause  of  American 
independence,  through  all  the  early  vicissitudes  of  the 
contest,  had  been  active  and  ardent.  They  now  indig 
nantly  cherished  the  belief,  that  their  efforts  and  sacrifices 
would  not  yield  to  them  an  equal  participation  in  the  com 
mon  blessings  which  might  be  secured  by  the  successful  issue 
of  the  conflict ;  that  congress  had  turned  a  deaf  ear  to  their 
importunate  demands  for  a  recognition  of  an  independent 
position  and  political  immunities ;  that  they  were  threatened 
with  dismemberment  by  the  pretensions  of  other  states,  and 


192  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

standing  alone  between  these  states  and  an  exasperated 
enemy,  they  were  abandoned,  to  meet  single-handed,  the 
dangers  and  sufferings  of  a  hostile  invasion.  The  over 
ruling  law  of  self-preservation,  the  astute  statesmen  of 
Vermont  alleged,  justified  and  even  demanded  a  resort  to 
extraordinary  measures,  and  such  as  would  be  warranted  by 
no  common  emergencies.  Their  apologists  now  aver  that 
these  men  designed,  by  shrewd  diplomacy,  to  shield  the 
state  from  the  overwhelming  assaults  of  the  British  army 
lying  upon  its  borders,  and  at  the  same  time  to  secure  an 
ultimate  protection  from  the  aggressions  of  New  York. 
At  this  time  in  the  light  of  later  disclosures  the  position 
will  scarcely  be  controverted,  that  it  was  their  fixed  and 
deliberate  purpose  if  the  exigency  arose  of  deciding  in  the 
choice  of  two  great  evils,  to  return  to  a  colonial  depend 
ence,  fortified  "  by  safe  and  honorable  terms  "  rather  than 
submit  to  the  power  of  New  York.1  The  same  determina 
tion  was  avowed  by  Governor  Chittenden  in  1781,  in  his 
official  correspondence  with  Washington.2 

At  the  opening  of  the  year  1780,  the  political  leaders  of 
Vermont  were  occupying  this  strange  and  anomalous  posi 
tion.  In  March,  Beverly  Robinson  of  !N"ew  York  addressed 
a  letter  to  Ethan  Allen,  which  was  delivered  to  him  at 
Arlington  in  the  following  July  by  a  British  soldier  dis 
guised  in  the  garb  of  an  American  farmer.  Allen  re 
ceived  and  read  the  letter,  and  without  causing  the  agent 
to  be  arrested,  returned  an  ambiguous  verbal  answer. 
Robinson,  in  this  communication,  which  was  couched  in  the 
most  specious  terms,  appealed  to  the  known  prejudices  of 
Vermont,  attempted  to  influence  the  popular  passions,  and 
to  prompt  Allen  to  aid  in  the  subversion  of  American 
independence.  This  document  Allen  submitted  to  Go 
vernor  Chittenden  and  a  small  circle  of  confidential  friends. 
They  all  concurred  in  the  opinion  that  no  answer  should 
be  returned.  Robinson  not  having  received  a  reply  in 


1  Ira  Allen's  Political  History  of  Vermont,  London,  1798. 
a  Ramsey's  Washington. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  193 

February,  1781,  wrote  Allen  again,  enclosing  a  copy  of  the 
previous  communication.  The  second  letter  was  still  more 
bold  and  distinct  in  its  language,  and  the  seductive  allure 
ments  to  Vermont  and  to  Allen  personally  it  presented. 
After  an  interval  of  almost  a  year  from  the  reception  of 
the  first  letter,  Allen  transmitted  both  instruments  to  con 
gress.  He  communicated  at  the  same  time  to  that  body, 
an  elaborate  vindication  of  the  course  of  Vermont,  urging 
the  acknowledgment  of  her  political  existence,  and  an 
nouncing  an  unalterable  and  resolute  determination  to 
assert  her  independence.  He  closed  his  communication  in 
characteristic  energy,  with  these  remarkable  words  :  "  and 
rather  than  fail,  I  will  retire  with  the  hardy  Green 
Mountain  boys,  into  the  desolate  caverns  of  the  mountains 
and  wage  war  with  human  nature  at  large."  Vermont,  in 
the  hour  of  trial,  was  not  without  the  influence  in  congress 
of  earnest  and  powerful  friends.  Roger  ^Sherman  gave 
indirectly  his  countenance  to  the  proceedings  of  which  New 
York  complained,  and  afterwards  with  great  zeal  vindicated 
the  claims  of  Vermont  to  political  recognition,  and  El- 
bridge  Gerry  pronounced,  that  "  Vermont  had  a  perfect 
right  to  her  independence."  l 

During  the  summer  of  1780,  Sir  Frederick  Haldimand 
with  a  large  force,  resumed  the  occupation  of  Ticonderoga. 
This  movement,  at  that  time  mysterious  and  without  any 
apparent  motive,  was  afterwards  known  to  have  been  dic 
tated  by  the  desire  of  fostering  the  negotiations  with 
Vermont.  He  proposed  to  Ethan  Allen,  who  then  com 
manded  the  troops  in  Vermont,  that  hostilities  should  be 
suspended  pending  an  arrangement  for  the  exchange  of 
certain  prisoners.  After  some  actual  or  pretended  hesita 
tion,  Allen  finally  decided  to  accept  the  proposition,  and  that 
a  temporary  armistice,  embracing  that  part  of  New  York, 
claimed  by  Vermont  and  extending  westward  to  the  Hudson, 
should  be  established.  Ira  Allen,  a  subtle  and  sagacious 
politician,  and  Joseph  Fay,  were  appointed  commissioners 

1  Life  of  Gouverneur  Morris. 
13 


194  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

for  Vermont  with  the  professed  object  of  effecting  the  con 
templated  exchange  of  prisoners.  While  this  ostensible 
negotiation  was  openly  pursued,  but  with  singular  procrasti 
nation,  the  commissioners  were  actively  engaged  with  secret 
emissaries  of  England  in  consummating  the  preliminaries 
of  an  arrangement  of  far  higher  import.  Overtures  were 
submitted  by  the  British  agents  for  the  independent  organ 
ization  of  the  Vermont  government,  under  the  royal  pro 
tection. 

These  proposals  were  received  by  the  representatives  of 
Vermont  with  attention,  and,  although  with  no  committal 
in  reference  to  any  ulterior  action,  in  a  manner  that 
cherished  the  expectations  of  the  English  officials.1  Under 
the  same  pretext  of  exchanging  prisoners,  Ira  Allen,  in 
the  ensuing  spring,  proceeded  to  the  Isle  aux  Noix,  and 
again  the  momentous  negotiation  was  resumed.  The 
fact  which  has  been  already  mentioned  should  not  be 
disregarded,  that  during  all  this  period,  and  to  the  termi 
nation  of  the  war,  Vermont  was  left  by  congress  without 
protection  or  defense,  and  abandoned  to  oppose  with  her 
single  strength  alone,  a  British  army  of  ten  thousand 
troops,  that  continually  menaced  her  frontier.  In  response 
to  the  propositions  of  the  British  agents,  that  the  armi 
stice  should  continue ;  that  the  Vermont  leaders  should 
gradually  prepare  the  popular  sentiment  for  a  return  to 
their  allegiance;  that  Vermont  should  be  clothed  with 
high  and  peculiar  privileges,  and  that  those  who  might 
aid  in  the  consummation  of  this  scheme  should  be  approved 
and  rewarded  by  the  most  ample  royal  munificence. 
Allen  conceded  the  perilous  position  of  Vermont,  and 
admitted  that  her  people  had  been  remiss  in  the  prosecu 
tion  of  the  war,  from  the  fear  that  success  might  subject 
them  to  the  government  of  Few  York,  a  result  far  more 
deplorable  in  their  view,  than  the  subjugation  of  the 
United  States  by  England.  While  conceding  this,  he 
avowed  that  the  hour  for  action  had  not  arrived.2  These 

1  Thompson's  Vermont.        a  Stone,  n,  199  ;  Thompson,  63. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  .       195 

interviews  were  extended  through  a  period  of  seventeen 
days ;  and  Allen,  with  an  exquisite  adroitness,  without 
committing  himself  or  his  government,  succeeded  in  effect 
ing  what  was  the  chief  object  of  this  mission,  an  extension  of 
the  armistice,  although  unable  to  procure  its  continuance 
beyond  the  approaching  session  of  the  Vermont  legisla 
ture,  which  was  to  convene  in  June  following. 

While  Allen  presented  to  the  council  a  full  and  public 
report  of  his  successful  arrangement  in  securing  the  ex 
change  of  prisoners,  all  reference  in  that  document  to  the 
more  important  negotiations  was  studiously  avoided.  The 
knowledge  of  these  measures  and  a  participation  in  them, 
were  limited  to  eight  of  the  prominent  citizens  of  the  state 
and  veiled  from  the  public  eye  with  an  art  and  success 
only  equaled  by  its  duplicity.  A  surreptitious  correspond 
ence  was  maintained  through  this  and  the  succeeding  year, 
by  the  Aliens  as  the  organs  of  the  Vermont  leaders,  and  the 
British  officials  at  Ticonderoga.  By  the  agency  of  British 
soldiers,  secret  missives  were  constantly  interexchanged  at 
Sunderland,  a  distance  of  sixty  miles  within  the  American 
territory  from  Ticonderoga,  between  the  Aliens  and  the 
agents  of  England.  In  the  darkness  and  secrecy  of  one 
night,  letters  were  deposited  at  an  appointed  receptacle, 
and  by  the  same  channel  answers  were  returned  the  even 
ing  succeeding.  A  trifling  incident  reveals  with  strong 
significance  the  actual  relation  which  existed  between  the 
initiated  in  these  measures,  and  the  British  government. 
A  band  of  patriotic  citizens  proceeding  from  Manchester, 
with  the  design  of  demolishing  the  house  of  a  suspected 
royalist  in  Arlington,  were  intercepted  at  Sunderland, 
an  intermediate  town,  by  Ira  Allen  and  two  of  his  coad 
jutors,  by  whose  influence  and  persuasion  they  were  with 
reluctance  induced  to  relinquish  their  purpose.  That  very 
night  and  on  the  same  ground,  where  this  occurrence  hap 
pened,  Allen  received  a  packet  from  Ticonderoga  by  the 
English  guard  that  had  been  the  active  medium  of  this 
intercourse,  and  returned  an  answer. 


196  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

In  the  autumn  of  1781,  St.  Leger  ascended  the  lake  with 
a  strong  force,  and  again  occupied  Ticonderoga.  These  ex 
traordinary  and  repeated  oscillations  of  large  bodies  of 
troops  between  St.  Johns  and  the  Champlain  fortresses, 
now  known  to  have  been  connected  with  this  negotiation, 
and  intended  to  facilitate  and  strenghten  it,  at  that  time 
tended  to  excite  the  greatest  alarm  and  agitation  not  only 
in  Vermont  but  throughout  the  whole  northern  frontier. 
When  they  advanced,  the  militia  were  suddenly  summoned 
from  their  homes,  forts  were  armed  and  replenished,  and 
great  inconvenience  and  expense  incurred  by  both  indivi 
duals  and  the  government.  "When  they  retired  mysteri- 
iously,  the  apprehensions  arose  that  the  movement  was 
designed  to  disguise  other  and  more  important  operations. 
While  these  events  were  transpiring  on  Lake  Champlain, 
an  intercepted  letter  from  Lord  George  Germaine  to  Sir 
Henry  Clinton,  partially  disclosed  to  congress  the  character 
and  designs  of  the  secret  intercourse  between  Vermont  and 
the  English  commanders.  About  the  same  time,  a  cir 
cumstance  occurred  in  the  vicinity  of  Ticonderoga,  which 
was  calculated  to  confirm  the  growing  jealousy  of  the  people 
of  Vermont  in  reference  to  the  practices  of  their  leaders 
and  to  augment  the  apprehensions  which  had  long  existed. 

The  agreement  for  the  suspension  of  hostilities  had 
never  been  openly  proclaimed,  and  from  this  cause  ori 
ginated  all  the  public  and  private  embarrassments  to  which 
we  have  adverted.  It  was  necessary,  in  order  to  avert 
suspicion  from  the  bold  game  these  parties  were  pursuing, 
to  maintain  an  apparently  hostile  attitude.  Among  these 
subterfuges  a  pretended  system  of  patrols  between  the 
armies  was  sustained  by  each.  Between  the  pickets  oc 
curred  an  accidental  collision.  In  the  skirmish  that  fol 
lowed,  the  sergeant  that  commanded  the  Vermont  party 
was  killed.  The  body  was  respectfully  interred  by  the 
English,  and  his  clothing  restored  by  St.  Leger  with  an 
open  letter  to  General  Enos,  the  American  commander, 
expressing  regret  for  the  occurrence  of  the  untoward  cir 
cumstance.  The  facts  connected  with  the  secret  arrange- 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  197 

ments  had  necessarily  been  imparted  to  Enos,  and  his 
subordinates,  Fletcher  and  Walbridge.  The  letter  of  St. 
Leger,  with  private  dispatches  from  these  officers,  was 
immediately  transmitted  to  the  council  of  war  of  Vermont 
by  an  agent  ignorant  of  these  designing  machinations,  who 
promulgated  widely  the  contents  of  St.  Leger's  mysterious 
communication.  The  popular  distrust,  which  already 
existed,  was  aroused  by  this  incident  into  a  vehement  sus 
picion.  The  council,  who  were  all  initiated  in  the  secret 
proceedings,  on  opening  the  dispatches,  discovered  that  they 
contained  intelligence  in  reference  to  the  negotiations, 
which  it  was  not  safe  to  reveal  to  the  public.  While  they 
were  engaged  in  examining  the  papers,  a  Major  Runnals 
entered  the  apartment,  and  demanded  in  the  name  of  the 
people,  and  with  warm  excitement,  an  explanation  of  these 
events,  and  why  St.  Leger  should  regret  the  death  of  an 
enemy.  Ira  Allen  sought  to  escape  the  inquiries  by  artful 
evasion ;  but  pressed  by  the  stern  determination  of  the 
agitated  people,  he  adopted,  with  his  peculiar  versatility, 
the  expedient  of  effecting  a  personal  altercation  with  Run 
nals.  Attention  was  thus  for  the  moment  diverted  from 
the  council,  and  an  important  delay  secured,  which  enabled 
them  to  suppress  the  original  documents  and  to  substitute 
others,  simulated  and  relieved  of  all  their  dangerous  con 
tents.  In  that  form  they  were  submitted  to  the  people  by 
Governor  Chittenden,  and  thus  the  impending  danger  of 
disclosure  of  these  negotiations  was  temporarily  averted. 
It  is  asserted  that  these  modified  dispatches  were  prepared 
by  Nathaniel  Chipman,  who  afterwards  attained  great  pro 
fessional  and  political  eminence.  The  position  of  these 
men  had  become  eminently  perplexing  and  critical.  It 
was  evident  that  their  devious  practices  could  not  longer 
be  sustained.  These  ambiguous  relations  must  be  termi 
nated,  and  the  country  exposed  to  the  invasion  of  a 
powerful  enemy,  or  by  the  unveiling  of  the  transactions, 
those  involved  in  them  would  be  denounced  by  congress 
and  probably  condemned  and  repudiated  by  those  who  had 
been  deceived  by  their  intrigues.  The  salutary  results  they 


198  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

professed  to  have  contemplated,  would  in  either  dilemma  be 
defeated.  At  this  moment  of  oppressive  doubt  and  appre 
hension  they  unexpectedly  derived  relief  from  a  most  au 
spicious  event. 

The  commissioners  of  Vermont  in  the  interview  of 
September,  1781,  could  present  no  plausible  evasion  to 
the  final  proposition  of  the  British  agents,  which  they 
insisted  upon  as  an  ultimatum,  if  the  armistice  was  to  be 
maintained.  They  proposed,  that  during  the  approaching 
session  of  the  Vermont  legislature,  in  October,  the  British 
commander  should  issue  a  proclamation  from  Ticonde- 
roga,  declaring  Vermont  a  colony  under  the  crown,  and 
confirming  the  form  of  government  which  had  been  agreed 
upon  by  the  negotiators,  and  that  the  legislature  should 
accept  the  overture  and  adopt  the  appropriate  measures 
to  enforce  it.1  The  British  agents  now  insisted  that  the 
time  had  arrived  for  issuing  the  projected  proclamation, 
and  manifested  a  determination  to  act.  While  the  affair 
was  in  this  attitude,  a  rumor  reached  Vermont  of  the 
surrender  of  Cornwallis,  and  imparted  such  animation  to 
the  popular  feeling,  that  Fay,  one  of  the  Vermont  com 
missioners,  seized  upon  the  circumstance  and  addressed  a 
letter  to  the  British  emissaries  with  St.  Leger  at  Ticonde- 
roga,  urging  them  to  suspend  immediate  action  until  the 
truth  of  these  rumors,  which  must  exert  so  important  an 
influence  on  the  negotiation,  might  be  ascertained.  The 
gates  of  Ticonderoga  had  scarcely  closed  upon  the  mes 
senger  bearing  this  appeal,  when  authentic  intelligence 
confirming  the  report,  reached  the  British  commander. 
St.  Leger  hastened  to  lower,  for  the  last  time,  the  banner 
of  England  on  the  ramparts  of  Ticouderoga,  and  before 
the  setting  of  the  sun,  embarked  the  garrison,  and  evacu 
ated  the  fortresses  on  Lake  Champlain.  Since  that  period 
their  mouldering  walls  have  reposed  in  silence  and  solitude, 
only  disturbed  at  intervals  by  the  mimicry  of  war  on  fes 
tal  occasions. 

1  Thompsons  Vermont. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  .   199 

During  the  early  months  of  1782,  Haldimand,in  repeated 
efforts,  attempted  to  establish  a  renewal  of  these  negotia 
tions,  but  his  advances  were  received  by  Vermont  in  great 
reserve  and  coolness.  Ira  Allen,  in  July,  proceeded  to 
Canada,  still  under  the  pretense  of  effecting  a  cartel  for 
the  exchange  of  prisoners.  He  was  received  by  the  Bri 
tish  agents  with  a  renewal  of  the  same  conciliatory  propo 
sitions,  and  while  he  was  able  to  procrastinate  a  decisive 
answer,  he  adroitly  succeeded  in  securing  a  continuance 
"of  the  armistice,  that  conferred  advantages  so  important 
on  Vermont.  The  intervention  of  peace  terminated  all 
danger  from  British  invasion ;  but  these  secret  negotiations 
were  pursued  for  several  years,  and  were  not  terminated 
until  Vermont  ceased  to  cherish  apprehension  from  the 
pretensions  of  New  York. 

The  historians  of  Vermont,  who  are  the  apologists  of 
these  transactions,  allege  that  the  men  who  conducted 
them,  never  seriously  contemplated  a  return  to  the  alle 
giance  of  England,  except  as  the  only  means  of  avoiding 
a  greater  and  more  detestable  tyranny  than  British  domi 
nation,  the  more  odious,  that  it  was  nearer,  more  direct, 
and  tangible  ;  that  the  insidious  attempts  of  British  emis 
saries  to  tamper  with  the  patriotism  of  Vermont,  was 
turned  against  themselves,  by  artifices,  that  paralyzed  the 
movements  of  an  army  of  ten  thousand  men.  The  diplo 
macy  was  most  consummate  and  successful,  which  could 
thus  delude  the  English  officials,  and,  at  the  same  time, 
allow  just  light  enough  and  no  more,  to  fall  upon  these 
negotiations,  than  was  calculated  to  alarm  the  fears  of  New 
York,  and  to  restrain  the  adverse  actions  of  congress. 
What  would  have  been  the  judgment  upon  these  practices 
by  the  rigid  code  of  military  law,  it  is  now  perhaps  inop 
portune  to  inquire.  Political  casuistry  will  find  it  difficult 
to  maintain  the  propriety  of  the  representatives  of  a 
patriotic  and  intelligent  people,  deceiving  the  masses  on  a 
most  vital  question,  by  a  deliberate  system  of  artifices 
and  evasion ;  or  to  vindicate  either  the  moral  or  political 
integrity  of  holding  clandestine  intercourse  with  a  foreign 


200  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

enemy ;  maintaining  negotiations  and  forming  treaties 
with  a  public  foe,  while  in  professed  and  solemn  alle 
giance  to  a  country  struggling  for  liberty  and  existence. 
The  length  to  which  these  secret  relations  extended,  or 
how  definitive  the  arrangements  of  the  leaders  became, 
will  never  probably  with  clearness  be  revealed.1 

The  views  of  Ira  Allen  himself,  justly  solicitous  for  his 
own  fame  and  security,  in  regard  to  these  proceedings,  are 
evinced  by  the  fact  that  he  extorted  from  Governor  Chit- 
tenden  and  other  of  his  coadjutors,  two  explicit  written  de 
clarations,  in  June  and  July,  1781,  recognizing  and  ratifying 
his  negotiations  with  the  British  emissaries.2  No  just 
mind  will  distrust  the  early  patriotism  of  these  men,  and  it 
must  always  be  conceded,  that  if  so  unhappy  a  design  as 
the  conditional  return  to  British  fealty  existed  in  their 
minds,  it  was  inspired  by  a  hatred  of  wrong  and  oppression, 
and  the  law,  as  they  believed,  "  of  self-preservation,"  the 
preservation  not  merely  of  political  rights,  but  of  their 
homes,  and  humble  fortunes.  They  detested  and  opposed 
foreign  tyranny,  and  the  same  spirit  which  stimulated  that 
feeling,  rendered  them  the  more  sensitive  to  the  persecu 
tions  of  a  kindred  people,  and  more  determined  in  their 
resistance  to  domestic  aggression.  Whatever  may  have 
been  the  purposes  or  action  of  individual  leaders,  and  these 
should  be  generously  judged,  with  regard  to  their  services 
and  sacrifices  in  the  common  cause,  and  subsequent  expo- 

1  Governor  Clinton  submitted  to  the  legislature  of  New  York,  in  1782, 
a  mass  of  facts  and  documentary  evidence,  in  reference  to  these  transactions, 
which  present  the  action  of  the  Vermont  leaders  in  a  most  unfavorable 
light.  These  papers  embraced  affidavits  from  two  individuals,  detailing 
circumstances  alleged  to  have  occurred  at  different  times  and  distinct  places, 
tending  to  establish  the  existence  of  a  matured  arrangement  by  which  Ver 
mont  was  to  be  formed  into  an  independent  colony  under  the  protection  of 
England,  and  that  Vermont  was  pledged  to  support,  under  certain  contin 
gencies,  the  British  government,  with  an  armed  force,  under  Ethan  Allen, 
consisting  of  fifteen  hundred  or  two  thousand  men  ;  and  that  she  should 
remain  neutral,  unless  the  war  should  be  carried  into  her  own  territory. 
I  am  not  aware  that  their  affidavits,  perhaps  of  doubtful  character,  were 
fortified  by  any  further  corroboration. 

a  The  Stephens  Papers. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  201 

sitions,  the  people  of  Vermont,  through  all  the  trying  scenes 
of  the  revolution,  by  their  patriotic  zeal  and  inextinguisha 
ble  ardor,  vindicated  the  undesigned  eulogium  of  Bur- 
goyne,  when  in  bitterness  and  disappointment,  he  wrote  : 
"  the  New  Hampshire  grants  abound  in  the  most  active  race 
on  the  continent,  and  hangs  like  a  gathering  storm  on  my 
left."1 


CHAPTER  XII. 

THE  SETTLEMENT,  1782-1849. 

The  fields  which  had  been  cleared  and  cultivated  on 
the  Boquet  with  so  much  labor,  were  abandoned  from. 
1776  to  1784,  and  after  peace  restored  repose  and  security, 
and  the  settlers  returned  to  their  former  homes,  they 
found  that  nature  had  almost  reestablished  her  empire 
over  the  territory.  Brambles  and  weeds  infested  the  land, 
the  roads  had  become  impassable,  the  fences  and  bridges 
were  prostrated  and  decayed.  Much  of  the  former  toils 
of  the  colony  were  to  be  renewed. 

The  personal  history  of  Mr.  Gilliland,  so  intimately 
interwoven  with  the  settlement  and  progress  of  the  county, 
demands  attention.  In  common  with  an  innumerable 
class  of  patriots,  who  had  freely  lavished  their  fortunes 
upon  the  country  in  the  hour  of  trial  and  effort,  the  peace 

JThe  student  of  history  will  obtain  all  the  elucidation  this  subject  will 
ever  probably  receive,  by  consulting  Slade's  Vermont  State  Papers,  Almon's 
Remembrancer,  vol.  ix,  Thompson's  Vermont,  Allen's  Political  History, 
Stone's  Life  of  Brandt,  The  Haldimand  Papers,  copies  of  which  have  been 
procured  from  England  and  are  preserved  at  Montpelier  in  two  manuscript 
volumes,  the  New  York  Historical  Documents,  and  preeminently,  the 
able  and  learned  Early  History  of  Vermont  by  Hon.  Hiland  Hall.  This 
most  valuable  contribution  to  American  annals  has  been  published  since  the 
preceding  pages  were  prepared  for  the  press.  Governor  Hall  has  given  great 
research  to  this  obscure  question.  He  seems  to  have  extracted  all  the  import 
ant  elements  of  the  Haldimand  Documents,  and  presents  a  very  forcible  and 
earnest  vindication  of  both  the  proceedings  and  designs  of  the  Vermont 
statesman,  who,  with  such  vast  ability,  guided  the  early  destiny  of  that  state. 


202  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

of  1783  found  Mr.  Gilliland  deeply  embarrassed  in  his 
pecuniary  affairs.  The  acquisition  of  an  estate  of  thirty 
thousand  acres  upon  the  borders  of  Champlain,  with  the 
disbursements  incident  to  its  improvement,  had  involved 
the  expenditure  of  a  large  amount  of  his  means.  He  had 
lived  in  great  comparative  affluence  and  splendor,  dis 
pensing  munificent  charities  and  a  generous  hospitality. 
Driven  from  his  home  by  a  protracted  war,  his  estates 
were  wasted,  and  for  several  years  abandoned  and  unpro 
ductive. 

In  the  progress  of  the  contest  he  had  been  reduced  almost 
to  indigence  and  destitution.  Arnold,  in  his  progress 
through  the  lake,  with  characteristic  rapacity  and  violence, 
had  ravaged  the  property  of  Mr.  Gilliland.  He  appealed 
to  congress  for  remuneration  of  his  advances,  and  indem 
nity  for  his  various  losses,  but  the  exhausted  treasury  ot 
the  country  could  afford  no  relief.  Returning  to  his  wide 
possessions,  he  saw  them  wasted  and  desolate.  Abandon 
ing  his  long  cherished  purpose  of  erecting  his  property 
into  a  manorial  estate,  he  decided  to  sell  his  lands  in  fee. 
The  first  purchasers  were  Joseph  Sheldon  and  Abraham 
Aiken,  of  Dutchess  county,  who  went  into  the  occupation 
of  their  lots  in  March,  1784,  and  were  the  pioneer  settlers 
under  the  new  arrangement,  in  the  limits  of  the  present 
town  of  Willsboro'.  During  that  spring,  fourteen  other 
families  purchased  and  occupied  farms,  and  several  other 
individuals  bought  lots,  and  commenced  improvements. 

The  lumber  required  for  their  buildings  was  procured 
at  Vergennes.  The  saw-mills  at  the  Boquet,  destroyed  in 
the  course  of  the  war,  had  not,  at  that  time,  been  rebuilt. 
Meanwhile,  other  embarrassments  gathered  around  to 
darken  and  accelerate  the  decaying  fortunes  of  Mr.  Gilli 
land.  In  several  of  the  claims  purchased  by  him  in  good 
faith,  and  for  valuable  considerations,  and  regularly  located, 
he  had  filed  the  requisite  applications  in  the  appropriate 
colonial  offices.  The  confusion  incident  to  the  convulsed 
period  which  ensued,  impeded,  and  finally  prevented  the 
consummation  of  these  grants  by  patents.  Others  appropri- 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  203 

ating,  as  he  alleged,  a  transcript  of  the  boundaries  of  the 
premises,  contained  in  his  documents,  had  applied  to  the 
new  government,  and  obtained  patents  of  the  territory 
embraced  in  his  previous  locations.  Litigation  ensued. 
The  antagonist  titles  were  sustained.  Costs  and  expenses 
followed,  which  absorbed  the  remnant  of  his  property,  and 
led  to  his  imprisonment  upon  the  jail  limits  of  New  York. 

He  returned  at  length  to  his  former  residence,  despond 
ent,  and  cherishing  a  disgust  at  the  cold  ingratitude  of 
many,  who  in  brighter  days  he  has  fostered  and  protected, 
and  partially  alienated  in  mind,  he  wandered  into  the  soli 
tudes  of  the  forest,  and  there  perished,  stricken  by  some  sud 
den  attack,  or  overcome  by  exposure.  His  lacerated  hands 
and  knees,  worn  deeply  into  the  flesh,  attested  how  long  and 
fearfully  he  had  struggled  with  hunger,  cold  and  exhaus 
tion.  Thus  died  the  pioneer  of  Essex  county;  the  former 
possessor  of  a  baronial  domain,  and  the  dispenser  of  muni 
ficent  hospitalities. 

A  strong  current  of  emigration  from  New  England 
rapidly  diffused  a  hardy  and  valuable  population  along  the 
western  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  and  gradually  pene 
trated  the  interior.  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  point  were 
settled  by  American  emigrants  at  the  close  of  the  revolu 
tion.  George  and  Alexander  Trimble  were  among  the 
earliest  and  most  prominent  of  these  settlers.  Two  lots 
upon  Whallon's  bay  were  occupied  the  same  year  by 
Amos  and  David  Stafford.  The  name  of  Charlotte  county 
was  in  1784  changed  to  Washington,  and  the  eventual 
arrangement  of  the  Vermont  controversy  limited  its  terri 
tory  in  the  Champlain  valley  to  the  western  side  of  the  lake. 

On  the  division  of  Washington  county,  in  1788,  a  now 
county  was  organized,  embracing  the  territory  which  now 
constitutes  the  counties  of  Essex,  Clinton,  and  the  eastern 
section  of  Franklin.  The  new  county  was  called  Clinton, 
and  was  divided  into  the  four  towns,  Champlain,  Platts- 
burgh,  Crown  point  and  Willsboro',  which  were  incor 
porated  at  the  same  time  with  the  organization  of  the 
county.  The  town  of  Crown  Point,  in  its  original  limits, 


204  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

comprised  the  present  town  of  that  name,  Ticonderoga,  also 
Moriah,  Westport,  Elizabethtown,  Schroon,  Minerva,  New- 
comb,  North  Hudson  and  a  part  of  Keene.  Willsboro' 
embraced  the  residue  of  the  present  county  of  Essex,  and 
three  towns  now  included  in  Clinton.  Each  of  the  towns 
of  Crown  point  and  Willsboro',  at  the  period  of  its  organ 
ization,  spread  over  a  territory  of  about  nine  hundred 
square  miles. 

At  the  first  town  meeting  of  Willsboro',  Melchior 
Hoffnagle  was  elected  supervisor,  and  Daniel  Sheldon  town 
clerk.  The  first  town  meeting  of  Crown  Point  was  held 
in  December,  1788.  At  this  epoch,  the  ordinary  civil  func 
tions  of  incorporated  towns  were  little  regarded  or  enforced. 
A  plan  was  adopted,  and  although  not  ratified  by  any  legis 
lation,  was  conceded  by  common  consent,  by  which  the 
town  officers  were  apportioned  to  the  various  prominent 
settlements.  Each  locality,  designated  in  a  primary  meet 
ing  the  individuals  who  should  receive  the  several  appoint 
ments  appropriated  to  them.  A  delegate  bore  the 
respective  nominations  to  the  general  town  meeting,  in 
which  they  were  almost  uniformly  confirmed.  At  the 
general  elections,  the  polls  were  held  on  the  two  first  days, 
one-half  a  day  in  a  place,  and  on  the  third  at  some  central 
or  populous  point.  These  expedients  facilitated  and 
secured  as  far  as  practicable,  the  exercise  of  their  civil 
rights  to  the  settlers. 

A  claim  instituted  by  the  Caughnawaga  and  St.  Regis 
Indians  in  1792,  to  avast  tract  of  land,  embracing  nearly  the 
entire  territory  between  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Mohawk 
rivers,  was  urged  for  many  years  with  great  pertinacity 
and  earnestness.  It  was  resisted  on  various  grounds,  with 
out  violating  any  principle  of  public  justice  and  private 
rights ;  investigation  amply  established  the  facts,  that  these 
tribes  had  no  original  title  to  the  district,  but  that  it  was 
held  exclusively  by  the  Iroquois,  who  had  alienated  it  to 
the  whites  by  sales  to  individuals  and  by  cessions  through 
public  treaties. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  205 

Charles  Platt  was  appointed  the  first  judge  of  the  newly 
organized  county,  and  "William  McAuley,  of  Willsboro', 
one  of  the  side  judges.  PI atts burgh  was  made  the  shire- 
town  of  the  county.  At  this  period  no  road  had  been  con 
structed  from  Willsboro',  north  of  the  Boquet  river.  The 
traveler  was  guided  solely  by  blazed  trees  over  the  Wills 
boro'  mountain.  The  route  thus  indicated,  extended 
through  the  forest  to  the  Au  Sable  river,  which  was  crossed 
at  the  High  bridge,  about  three  miles  below  the  site  of 
Keeseville.  A  wood  road  had  been  opened  from  that  point 
to  Plattsburgh.  A  similar  track,  it  is  probable,  was  the 
only  avenue  of  intercourse  between  Crown  Point  and  Split 
rock.  The  settlement  at  Ticonderoga  was  about  seventy 
miles  distant  from  Plattsburgh,  at  which  place  the  in 
habitants  were  compelled  to  appear,  to  assert  their  rights 
as  litigants,  or  to  discharge  their  duties  as  jurors  and 
witnesses.  Jay  was  incorporated  as  a  town  in  January, 
and  Elizabethtown  in  February,  1801.  Chesterfield  was 
organized  in  1802,  and  Essex  and  Lewis,  April  4,  1805. 

In  1790,  Platt  Rogers  established  a  ferry  from  Basin 
Harbor,  and  constructed  a  road  from  the  landing  to  a 
point  near  Split  rock,  where  it  connected  with  the  road 
made  in  an  early  period  of  the  settlement.  He  erected, 
in  the  same  season,  a  bridge  over  the  Boquet,  at  Wills 
boro'  falls,  and  constructed  a  road  from  that  place  to 
Peru,  in  Clinton  county.  These  services  were  remune 
rated  by  the  state,  through  an  appropriation  to  Rogers  and 
his  associates,  of  a  large  tract  from  the  public  lands. 
The  venerable  Judge  Hatch,  who  until  recently,  survived, 
was  one  of  the  earliest  settlers  in  the  interior  of  the 
country.  He  moved,  in  1792,  into  that  part  of  the  town 
of  Essex  now  known  as  Brookfield,  which  was  surveyed 
and  sold  in  1788.  "  This  district,"  he  says,  "  was  at  that 
time  chiefly  in  a  state  of  nature."  In  1804,  he  "  removed 
to  the  village  of  Westport,  then  called  North  West  Bay. 
The  distance  was  eight  miles,  and  the  removal  of  his 
family  occupied  two  days,  and  the  labor  of  four  men,  to 
open  a  passage  for  a  wagon.  At  Westport,  a  small 


206  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

improvement  had  previously  been  commenced,  and  one 
frame  house,  three  log  houses,  a  saw-mill,  and  one  barn 
had  been  erected.  No  road  extended  south  beyond  the 
limits  of  that  town.  A  track  had  been  opened  to  Pleasant 
Valley,  where  an  infant  settlement  had  just  been  formed. 
A  road  which  was  almost  impassable,  extended  to  the  new 
colonies,  in  Lewis,  and  Jay,  and  Keene.1  The  alarm  and 
excitement  which  agitated  the  whole  country  at  the  defeat 
of  St.  Glair,  in  this  year,  and  the  apprehension  of  a  gene 
ral  combination  of  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  west  with  the 
Six  Nations,  extended  to  these  humble  hamlets. 

A  block-house  was  erected  for  the  protection  of  the 
inhabitants,  near  the  village  of  Essex.  The  enterprise  of 
the  pioneer  of  New  England  had  penetrated  the  gorges  of 
the  mountains,  and  his  keen  eye  had  fastened  upon  rich 
and  alluring  districts  far  in  the  forest  paths  I  have  men 
tioned.  The  table  lands  of  Jay,  the  fertile  valleys  of 
Schroon,  and  the  ravines  and  slopes  in  Lewis,  Elizabeth- 
town  and  Keene,  were  all  occupied  previous  to  1798.  An 
exploring  party  from  the  east  had  reached  an  eminence  in 
Elizabethtown,  that  looks  down  upon  the  beautiful  vale 
now  occupied  by  the  county  seat  of  Essex  county,  embo 
somed  among  a  lofty  group  of  mountains,  and  adorned  by 
the  branches  of  the  Boquet,  which  glide  through  its  ver 
dant  plains,  and  gazing  in  delight  upon  the  scene,  they 
pronounced  it  Pleasant  Valley.  It  still  preserves,  by  com 
mon  sentiment,  the  name  and  the  same  preeminence. 
Schroon  was  settled  about  the  year  1797,  by  Samuel  Scrib- 
ner,  Thomas  Leland,  Moses  Patee,  Benjamin  Banker  and 
Simeon  Rawson,  who  were  all  men  of  New  England. 
Thomas  Hinckley  made  the  first  purchase  in  the  town  of 
Lewis,  in  1796.  The  most  important  measure  designed  to 
open  and  develop  the  interior  sections  of  the  country,  was 
the  enactment  of  laws  which  authorized  the  construction, 
by  Platt  Rogers,  and  others,  of  public  roads.  I  have  already 
referred  to  one.  Another  was  authorized  to  be  constructed 

^Letter  Hon.  Charles  Hatch. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  207 

from  Sandy  Hill  to  the  Canada  line,  and  passing  along  the 
Schroon  valley,  through  Elizabethtown  and  Lewis,  and 
crossed  the  Au  Sable  river  at  a  fording  place  near  Keese- 
ville.  This  highway  is  still  designated  as  the  Old  State 
road.  Numerous  appropriations,  at  more  recent  periods, 
have  been  made  by  the  state,  for  the  construction  of  public 
roads,  which  traverse  the  county  in  various  directions. 
One  of  these,  opened  many  years  since,  extending  from 
Westport  to  Hopkinton,  traversing  Elizabethtown,  the 
gorges  of  the  Keene  mountains,  and  the  plains  of  North 
Elba,  penetrated  what  was  then  denominated,  the  fifty  miles 
woods.  A  road,  constructed  under  acts  of  1841  and  1844, 
from  Lake  Champlain  to  Cartharge,  in  Jefferson  county, 
was  gradually  built  by  an  application  of  specific  road  taxes. 
It  passes  through  the  towns  of  Crown  Point,  Schroon  and 
Newcomb,  penetrating  the  heart  of  the  Adirondacs.  These 
avenues  are  of  the  deepest  importance  in  promoting  the 
progress  and  improvement  of  the  county.  Rogers  and  his 
associates  received  an  enormous  grant  of  unappropriated 
lands,  covering  an  area  of  about  seventy- three  thousand 
acres.  It  costs,  in  the  construction  of  these  roads,  according 
to  the  estimates  preserved  by  tradition,  "  one  penny  and  two 
farthings  per  acre." 

Essex  county  was  organized  in  1799,  in  the  division  of 
Clinton  county,  and  is  now  bounded  on  the  north  by  Clin 
ton  and  Franklin  counties,  on  the  west  by  Franklin  and 
Hamilton,  on  the  south  by  Washington  and  Warren,  and 
on  the  east  by  Lake  Champlain.  The  area  of  this  county 
embraces  one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  seventy-nine 
square  miles,  or  one  million  one  hundred  and  thirty-eight 
thousand  five  hundred  acres.  It  is  the  second  county  in 
territorial  extent  in  the  state,  being  only  exceeded  by  St. 
Lawrence.  New  towns,  by  repeated  divisions,  have  been 
occasionally  formed,  as  circumstances  and  the  convenience 
of  the  population  required.  The  county  now  comprises 
eighteen  incorporated  townships,  several  of  which  com 
prehend  more  territory  than  some  of  the  counties  in  the 
state.  Nearly  all  of  them  are  too  extended  for  the  con- 


208  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

venient  exercise  of  their  civil  and  political  functions.  The 
village  of  Essex  was  originally  constituted  the  county  shire, 
and  the  old  block-house,  mentioned  before,  was  appro 
priated  for  the  public  use,  and  was  occupied  for  these  pur 
poses,  until  the  removal  of  the  county  seat  to  Pleasant 
Valley.  By  the  census  of  1800,  the  combined  population 
of  Clinton  and  Essex  counties,  was  eight  thousand  five  hun 
dred  and  seventy-two,  including  fifty-eight  slaves.  The 
next  decade  exhibits  a  very  decisive  increase.  Essex  alone 
contained,  by  the  census  of  1810,  nine  thousand  five  hun 
dred  and  twenty-five  population,  and  Clinton  eight  thousand 
and  two.  The  tabular  exhibit,  Appendix  D,  will  present 
the  progress  of  the  county  in  population. 

Essex  county  voted  with  Clinton,  until  after  the  census 
of  1800.  Thomas  Stower  was  the  first  representative  of 
Essex,  when  voting  independent  of  Clinton.1 
*  The  war  of  1812,  although  it  closed  many  of  the  ordi 
nary  channels  of  business  in  this  county,  accelerated  its 
progress  by  the  new  demands  created  for  all  the  products 
of  industry  and  agriculture,  and  by  the  general  and  abundant 
diffusion  of  money  it  produced.  The  enemy  appeared  on 
several  occasions  in  the  waters  of  Essex  county,  and  in  the 
summer  of  1813,  entered  the  Boquet  with  twogalleys  and  two 
barges  for  the  purpose  of  seizing  a  quantity  of  government 
flour  which  had  been  deposited  at  Willsboro'  falls.  Landing 
at  different  points,  and  committing  many  waijton  ravages 
on  private  property,  they  retired  after  a  slight  skirmish 
with  a  body  of  militia  under  General  Wadhams  near  the 
former  entrenchments  of  Burgoyne.  The  fire  of  the  militia 
killed  or  wounded  nearly  all  that  were  in  the  rear  galley. 
She  floated  down  the  river  a  disabled  wreck  and  was  towed 
into  the  lake,  by  boats  sent  to  her  assistance.1  After  this 
repulse  the  British  flotilla  returned  to  the  Isle  aux  Noix. 

The  citizens  of  the  county  exhibited  promptitude  and 
zeal  in  responding  to  the  calls  of  patriotism,  during  the 
war,  and  particularly  on  the  approach  of  the  British  forces, 

1  For  the  complete  civil  list  of  Essex  county,  see  Appendix  C. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  209 

in  1814,  upon  Plattsburgh.  Many  of  the  volunteers  and 
militia  of  Essex,  creditably  participated  in  the  events  of 
that  brief,  although  glorious  campaign. 

The  masses  of  the  settlers  of  Essex  county  were  of  New 
England  origin,  and  in  a  congenial  soil  and  climate, 
familiar  to  their  habits  and  experiences,  they  implanted  the 
usages  and  characteristics  of  their  puritan  fatherland.  No 
county  of  the  state  embraces  a  population  of  higher  intel 
ligence,  of  purer  morality,  or  more  industrious  and  frugal 
habits.  Its  early  history  presents  only  a  counterpart  of 
the  aspect  of  every  new  colony,  where  among  the  virtuous 
and  worthy,  there  always  drifts  from  more  mature  com 
munities,  the  loose  and  reckless. 

The  disorganizing  and  demoralizing  effects  of  the  war 
of  the  revolution  exerted  a  malignant  influence  upon  the 
character  of  the  frontier  population.  Essex  county  was 
not  exempt  from  these  consequences.  The  testimony 
before  me,  of  aged  citizens,  presents  a  striking  portraiture 
of  the  state  of  society,  in  some  sections  of  the  county, 
where  the  restraints  of  government  were  scarcely  recog 
nized  and  where  laws  seem  to  have  administered  only  to 
evil  passions.  I  quote  the  language  of  a  judicious  observer, 
in  speaking  of  a  town,  now  second  to  none  in  its  high 
moral  and  social  position  :  "  When  an  individual  wished  to 
secure  a  piece  of  land,  he  erected  upon  it  a  cabin,  and 
repelled  others  by  physical  force ;  if  unsuccessful  or  absent, 
his  cabin  was  prostrated,  and  the  last  aggressor  took  pos 
session  of  the  coveted  premises,  and  claimed  the  title. 
The  parties,  with  their  partisans  and  a  supply  of  whiskey, 
met  on  the  soil,  and  '  tried  their  wager  of  battle.'  The 
victor  maintained  the  possession.  To  correct  these  evils 
an  association  was  formed,  and  a  system  adopted,  which 
required  a  person  desiring  to  occupy  a  lot,  to  perfect  a  sur 
vey  of  the  premises,  and  to  file  a  transcript  with  the  secre 
tary  of  the  society.  The  title  thus  established  was  held 
sacred,  for  the  purpose  of  that  community." l  The  vene- 

1  G.  Fenton,  Esq. 
14 


210  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

rable  author,  since  deceased,  of  a  communication,  describ 
ing  the  primitive  habits  of  the  county  states:  uthat 
justices'  courts,  at  that  period,  were  usually  held  in  taverns 
the  innkeeper  himself  being  the  justice.  The  most  frivo 
lous  difficulties  were  nursed  into  lawsuits ;  these,  attended 
amid  intemperance  and  revelings,  led  to  assaults,  and 
trifling  controversies  which  engendered  further  and  debas 
ing  litigation.1  Essex  county  presented  in  this  rude  and 
demoralized  class  of  its  citizens,  a  stage  of  society  exhibited 
along  every  frontier  of  civilization.  Wherever  I  have  suc 
ceeded  in  tracing  the  history  of  the  early  settlement  of 
this  county,  I  almost  universally  have  found  one  promi 
nent  feature  developed,  and  which  strongly  marks  the 
character  and  descent  of  the  people.  The  first  impulse, 
and  almost  instinct  of  the  settlers,  even  when  their  cabins 
were  scattered  over  a  wide  area  of  several  miles,  seems  to 
have  been  to  secure  the  erection  of  a  school-house.  For 
many  years  in  the  early  stages  of  the  settlements,  these 
schools  had  no  legal  organization,  and  were  sustained  alone 
by  the  voluntary  contributions  of  the  people,  unaided  by 
the  public  bounty.2  The  school-house  supplied  the  place 
of  public  worship.  The  missionary  at  an  early  day  ap 
peared  in  the  midst  of  these  settlements,  superseding  in 
the  religious  duties,  the  humbler  offices  of  the  private 
Christian.  Churches  were  soon  organized  in  various  sec 
tions  of  the  county.  Many  colonies  were  accompanied  in 
their  emigration  by  their  own  spiritual  guides. 

The  cold  season  of  1816,  which  produced  such  universal 
distress  and  suffering,  inflicted  a  scarcity  upon  this  new 
country,  that  visited  it  almost  with  the  horrors  of  famine. 
So  close  and  pressing  was  the  destitution,  that  the  indigent, 
gathering  from  many  miles  about  a  mill,  would  crave  the 
privilege  of  collecting  its  sweepings,  to  preserve  the  lives 
of  their  families.  A  few  sufficiently  provident  to  cut  the 
corn  in  the  sap,  saved  it  sound  enough  for  planting.  In 
the  succeeding  spring,  many  traveled  fifty  miles  to  procure 


1  Lem  Higby,  Esq.        2  John  Hoffnagle. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  211 

this  seed.  Partial  failure  of  crops  had  before  occurred,  but 
the  season  of  1816  will  long  be  memorable,  as  the  only 
instance  in  the  history  of  the  county  of  extreme  destitu 
tion  and  suffering. 

Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point  present,  upon  the  margin 
of  Lake  Champlain,  a  low  and  beautiful  tract  gently  un 
dulating  and  gradually  ascending  as  it  recedes,  and  swell 
ing  towards  their  western  limits  into  bold  and  abrupt 
eminences.  Clay  predominates  in  these  towns  in  the  vici 
nity  of  the  lake,  intercepted  by  occasional  seams  of  sand, 
and  in  the  interior  the  soil  is  generally  a  gravel  or  sandy 
loam.  Several  sections  of  these  towns  are  distinguished 
for  the  great  excellence  of  their  meadow  lands.  A  view 
of  Westport,  Essex,  and  Willsboro',  from  the  lake,  presents 
ranges  of  highly  cultivated  and  fertile  farms,  mingled  with 
a  combination  of  hills  and  plains  which  beautifully  adorn 
and  diversify  the  scenery.  The  two  former  spread  into  the 
interior  bosoms  of  choice  land,  more  elevated,  and  which 
are  environed  by  lofty  hills  and  mountains.  Willsboro' 
point  is  a  low,  flat  peninsula,  projecting  several  miles  into 
Champlain,  having  the  long  estuary,  formerly  known  as 
Pereu  bay,  on  its  western  side.  This  portion  of  Willsboro' 
affords  some  of  the  best  farms  in  the  county.  A  ridge  of 
high,  warm  and  rich  land  traverses  the  town  of  Essex  dia 
gonally  from  near  the  lake  to  Whallonsburgh,  embracing 
a  territory  of  great  natural  fertility  and  inferior  to  few 
sections  of  the  state  in  the  advanced  character  and  excel 
lence  of  its  tillage.  The  soil  of  these  towns  is  very  diver 
sified,  although  a  sandy  loam  is  its  prevailing  character. 
Moriah  and  Chesterfield,  both  bordering  upon  the  lake, 
are  more  broken  and  stony  than  the  other  lake  towns  and 
contain  less  arable  and  cultivated  land.  The  former 
ascends  abruptly,  and  in  a  series  of  terraces  or  high  valleys, 
until  it  attains  an  elevation  of  several  hundred  feet  a  short 
distance  from  the  lake.  The  soil  of  this  tract  is  deep  and 
strong.  Chesterfield  contains  many  ranges  of  sand  and 
rocky  districts,  but  embraces  much  territory  of  very  supe 
rior  land.  Elizabethtown  and  Lewis,  lying  among  the 


212  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

gorges  of  the  mountains  and  intersected  by  various 
branches  of  the  Boquet,  expose  chiefly  a  light  soil,  with 
some  alluvial  flats  and  valleys  enriched  by  the  debris  of 
the  upland,  which  form  tracts  of  the  choicest  land.  Parts 
of  these  towns  are  managed,  in  their  agricultural  affairs, 
with  great  skill  and  sagacity.  North  Hudson  and  Keene, 
while  they  include  several  fine  farms,  are,  in  the  aggregate, 
broken  and  mountainous.  The  Keene  flats  are  unsur 
passed  in  beauty  and  fertility.  The  territorial  limits  of 
Schroon  equals  the  area  of  some  counties,  and  is  exceed 
ingly  diversified  in  the  face  of  the  country  and  the  nature 
of  the  soil.1  The  centre  of  the  town  forms  a  beautiful 
rich  valley  of  warm  alluvial  soil,  through  which  flows, 
along  high  and  even  banks,  the  waters  of  the  upper  Hud 
son.  Successful  cultivation  has  been  extended  into  the 
ravines  and  recesses  of  the  mountains  traversed  by  tributa 
ries  of  this  stream.  Fertile  and  cultivated  tracts  occur  in 
various  other  sections  of  the  town. 

The  town  of  Minerva  was  organized  from  a  part  of 
Schroon,  and  incorporated  in  1817,  when  it  comprised  a 
few  log  cabins  scattered  over  its  wide  .surface.  It  is  situ 
ated  in  the  extreme  south-western  corner  of  the  county. 
A  very  large  proportion  of  this  town  is  still  occupied  by 
the  original  forest.  Separated  by  a  high  range  of  moun 
tains  from  other  sections  of  the  county,  connected  with 
them  by  imperfect  communication,  and  with  little  associa 
tions  in  their  business  affairs,  this  most  valuable  and  inte 
resting  town  has  been  little  known  or  appreciated.  In 
the  general  improvement  of  the  town,  in  the  appearance 
of  the  farms,  the  erection  of  new  buildings,  and  its  iudus- 

1  This  town  derives  its  name  from  the  lovely  lake  which  it  embraces. 
The  legend  is,  that  the  lake  was  visited  by  the  French  in  their  military  ex 
peditions  and  in  fishing  and  hunting  excursions  from  Crown  Point  and  Ticon- 
deroga,  and  was  named  by  them  Scarron,  in  honor  of  the  widow  Scarron, 
the  celebrated  Madam  Maintenon,  of  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.  Rogers  men 
tions  Schoon  creek  which  was  crossed  in  marching  between  Fort  Edward 
and  Lake  George.  The  islands  of  this  lake  afford  sites  for  elegant  and  re 
tired  villas  and  country  seats,  unsurpassed  by  the  waters  of  Cumberland 
and  Westmoreland,  in  picturesque  beauty  and  romantic  seclusion. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  213 

trial  pursuits,  no  part  of  the  county  exhibited,  to  my 
observation,  more  decisive  and  gratifying  evidences  of 
prosperity  and  advancement.  The  physical  formation  of 
Minerva  is  peculiar  and  striking.  The  whole  territory 
of  the  town  is  elevated,  rising  in  a  gradual  ascent  of  a 
succession  of  lofty  valleys,  formed  by  deep,  broad,  and 
sweeping  undulations.  This  formation,  viewed  from  an 
eminence,  communicates  a  rich  rural  aspect,  and  great 
beauty  to  the  landscape.  In  the  language  of  one  of  its 
inhabitants,1  "  Minerva  is  a  rugged  and  mountainous 
town,  containing  about  one-third  mountain,  one-third  fea 
sible  land,  and  the  residue  rough  and  stony." 

The  town  of  Newcomb  is  high,  spreading  over  an  ele 
vation — apart  from  the  altitude  of  the  mountains  —  ranging 
from  one  thousand  live  hundred  to  one  thousand  eight 
hundred  feet,  which  presents  a  broken  and  rocky  surface. 
Yet  its  slopes  and  elevated  valleys  comprise  tracts  of  much 
natural  vigor,  with  great  depth  of  soil.  These  qualities 
of  the  earth  are  exhibited  by  the  dense  and  stately  growth 
of  its  primitive  and  magnificent  hard-wood  forests.  Iso 
lated  farms  have  been  occupied  in  different  parts  of  this 
town,  since  an  early  period  of  the  present  century. 

Jay  was  settled  as  early  as  1798.  Kemote,  and  at  that 
time  nearly  inaccessible  from  Lake  Champlain,  its  great 
natural  fertility  and  beauty  attracted  the  emigrant,  who, 
passing  by  lands  contiguous  to  that  great  artery  of  the 
country,  penetrated  to  this  wilderness  by  a  mere  bridle 
path,  and  transported  thither,  on  horseback,  his  family 
and  effects.  A  large  portion  of  this  town  is  formed  of 
high  and  precipitous  hills  and  mountains,  and  its  whole 
territory  is  elevated.  In  the  valleys,  the  soil  is  light,  but 
usually  vigorous.  Upon  several  parallel  ridges,  which 
traverse  nearly  its  entire  length,  ranges  of  land  occur, 
distinguished  by  a  warm,  quick,  and  highly  productive 
soil.  These  tracts  allured  the  early  emigration  to  this 

1  A.  P.  Morse. 


214  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

region  seventy  years  ago,  and  they  still  preserve  their  high 
character  for  great  and  enduring  fertility. 

Wilmington  and  St.  Armands,  recently  separated  from 
it,  occupy  the  north-western  angle  of  Essex  county.  They 
are  generally,  in  their  topographical  aspect,  elevated, 
rough,  and  mountainous.  The  soil  is  sandy  and  gravelly, 
with  occasional  alternations  of  loam.  These  towns  com 
prise  numerous  bosoms  and  flats  of  excellent  land.  The 
long  slopes  gradually  descending  from  the  mountains  to 
the  valleys  of  the  streams,  present  a  highly  picturesque 
and  beautiful  scenery.  Settlements  commenced  in  Wil 
mington,  in  1800,  and  in  the  district  now  forming  St. 
Armands,  not  until  1829,  by  any  permanent  occupancy.1 

The  town  of  North  Elba  is  environed,  upon  all  except  its 
western  borders,  by  a  lofty  sierra,  which  separates  it  from 
the  other  sections  of  the  county,  by  an  almost  insuperable 
barrier.  It  is  now  approached  by  a  circuitous  route 
through  Clinton  and  Franklin  counties  by  the  road  which 
penetrates  the  mountains  at  the  Wilmington  notch,  or  by 
the  state  road,  which  passes  through  the  deep  gorges,  and 
along  the  high  and  broken  slopes  of  the  Keene  mountains. 
North  Elba  has  little  assimilation  to  the  other  towns  of  the 
county,  either  in  its  topographical  arrangement  or  in  the 
character  of  its  soil.  The  gigantic  amphitheatre  of  moun 
tains,  which  almost  encircle  the  town,  form  in  its  outline 
an  arc  of  nearly  sixty  miles  in  extent,  and  embraces 
within  this  area  a  territory  of  about  one  hundred  square 
miles.  Upon  the  west,  the  plains  of  North  Elba  mingle 
with  that  vast  plateau,  teeming  with  rivers  and  lakes  and 
forests,  which  spread  to  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
The  grandeur  and  imposing  beauty  of  these  mountain  bul 
warks,  which  singularly  blending  with  a  landscape  of  lakes 
and  rivulets,  vales  and  hills,  combine  to  form  a  scenery  of 
surpassing  loveliness  and  magnificence.  From  one  position, 
the  eye  gazes  on  the  lofty  group  of  the  Adirondac  moun 
tains.  Mt.  Marcy  stands  out  in  his  perfect  contour  and 

1  JSli(is  Ooodspeed. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  215 

vast  dimensions.  Mt.  Mclntyre,  Golden,  McMartin,  trace 
their  outlines  upon  the  horizon,  and  far  towards  the  south 
west,  the  group  of  Mt.  Seward  limit  the  view ;  on  the  north, 
the  Whiteface  envelops  the  plain,  and  on  the  east, 
tower  the  dark  and  rugged  cliffs  of  the  Keene  mountains. 

The  western  branch  of  the  Au  Sable  river  flows  through 
the  town,  and  nearly  the  whole  distance  along  a  wide  allu 
vial  valley,  almost  as  broad,  and  apparently  of  fertility 
equal  to  the  flats  of  the  Mohawk  river.  The  soil  of  this 
intervale  is  generally  a  deep  alluvial.  Ascending  from 
the  valley  to  the  table  land,  the  earth  becomes  a  dark  and 
rich  loam  free  from  stones  and  rock.  The  growth  of  hard 
wood  upon  this  territory  is  in  no  part  of  the  state  sur 
passed  in  its  size,  quality,  arid  density.  Its  maple,  birch, 
cherry  and  beech,  are  as  stately,  and  form  as  highly  tim 
bered  woodland  as  in  the  most  favored  sections  of  the 
country.  Slightly  elevated  above  the  table-land,  and  re 
ceding  from  the  river,  commence  the  plains,  which  expand 
far  into  the  interior.  This  tract  embraces,  in  its  general 
character,  a  warm,  rich  sandy  loam.  This  land  is  scarcely 
inferior  to  the  other  soils  of  the  town  in  vigor,  while  it 
exerts  an  early  and  more  impulsive  influence  on  vegetation, 
and  is  more  easily  and  cheaply  tilled. 

With  a  view  of  instituting  a  comparison  between  this 
rich  and  beautiful  region,  and  some  of  the  most  highly 
cultivated  and  productive  districts  of  Vermont,  and  thus 
to  test  the  adaptation  of  the  former  from  altitude  and  cli 
mate  to  agricultural  purposes,  I  applied  to  the  late  venerable 
and  distinguished  professor  of  natural  history,  in  the 
Vermont  University,  Rev.  Zadock  Thompson,  for  inform 
ation  on  the  subject.  His  reply  is  contained  in  a  very 
interesting  note  in  which  he  states  that  many  of  the  most 
valuable  and  productive  farms  in  Vermont  are  situated  at 
an  altitude  of  five  hundred  to  one  thousand  two  hundred 
feet.  It  will  be  understood  that  the  elevations  mentioned 
by  Professor  Thompson,  are  from  the  basis  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  which  is  itself  ninety-three  feet  above  tide  water. 
The  plateau,  which  embraces  the  arable  parts  of  N"orth 


216  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Elba,  is  estimated  in  the  report  of  Professor  Benedict,  as 
ranging  from  one  thousand  four  hundred,  to  one  thousand 
eight  hundred  feet  above  tide.  This  town  contains  nearly 
eighty  thousand  acres  of  land,  seven-tenths  of  which,  it  is 
computed,  are  susceptible  of  cultivation. 

The  great  beauty  of  this  town,  its  agricultural  capabili 
ties,  and  its  peculiar  history  as  well  as  the  general  absence 
of  information  relative  to  its  character  and  importance, 
seem  to  require  a  somewhat  extended  view  of  its  progress 
and  condition.1 

A  few  pioneers,  near  the  commencement  of  the  century, 
with  their  families,  entered  into  this  remote  and  deeply 
secluded  region.  They  seem  to  have  encountered  severer 
hardships  and  trials  than  the  ordinary  privations  incident 
to  a  frontier  life.  Divided  from  civilized  society  by  a 
chain  of  almost  impenetrable  mountains,  they  probably 
reached  the  place  then  known  as  the  Plains  of  Abraham, 
by  the  circuitous  route,  now  traversed  by  a  road,  along 
the  course  of  the  Saranac.  While  they  waited  in  expecta 
tion  of  the  scanty  harvest  yielded  by  their  improvident 
agriculture,  they  subsisted  by  fishing  and  hunting,  and 
from  supplies  transported  by  their  own  labor  from  the 
nearest  settlements.  The  numerous  beaver  meadows 
furnished  an  abundant  supply  of  fodder  and  grazing  for 
the  cattle.  Until  1810  little  progress  was  made  either  in 
the  agricultural  or  social  condition  of  this  remote  colony. 
The  construction  about  that  period  of  the  Elba  Iron 
Works,  by  Archibald  Mclntyre  and  his  associates,  gave 


1  The  vestiges  of  Indian  occupation  in  North  Elba,  and  the  territory 
around  the  interior  lakes  which  remain,  leave  no  doubt  that  at  some  former 
period  they  congregated  there  in  great  numbers.  I  found  in  the  county  a 
obscure  tradition  that  the  partisan  Rogers  attacked  and  destroyed  a  village 
in  the  absence  of  the  warriors,  situated  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham  ;  that 
he  was  pursued  and  overtaken,  and  a  battle  fought  on  the  banks  of  the 
Boquet,  just  below  the  village  of  Pleasant  Valley.  Relics  of  both  Euro 
pean  and  savage  weapons  of  war  found  on  the  scene  of  the  supposed  con 
flict,  seem  to  corroborate  the  legend,  or  at  least  indicate  the  probability  of 
an  engagement  between  Europeans  and  Indians  having  occurred  at  that 
place. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  217 

a  new  aspect  to  the  affairs  ot  this  region.  The  history  of 
that  enterprise  I  shall  narrate  in  another  place.  The  re 
quirements  of  these  works  created  occupation  for  all  the 
population  in  the  vicinity,  formed  a  domestic  market,  and 
attracted  numerous  settlers.  Schools  were  established, 
religious  ordinances  observed,  and  an  efficient  and  benign 
influence  exerted  by  the  benevolent  proprietors.  Unhap 
pily  for  the  progress  and  permanent  prosperity  of  the 
district,  nearly  all  the  land  in  the  township  at  this  period 
was  held  by  the  state.  The  emigrant,  when  he  arrived, 
selected  his  lot  without  perfecting  a  title,  or  even  securing 
a  preemption,  relying  upon  his  right  and  ability  to  do  so 
at  his  convenience.  This  delay  eventually  defeated  their 
occupation  of  the  farms,  and  blasted  all  the  anticipated 
rewards  of  the  toil  and  privations  of  the  pioneers.  In  the 
language  of  a  citizen  of  the  town,  u  a  great  landholder 
heard  of  this  territory  of  state  lands,  came  and  inspected 
it,  returned  to  Albany  and  made  a  purchase  at  the  land 
office  of  the  entire  tract."  The  settlers,  soon  apprised  of 
this  event,  so  fraught  with  evil  and  calamity  to  themselves, 
sought  to  purchase  of  him  their  possessions.  He  an 
nounced  to  them  that  the  lands  were  not,  at  that  time,  in 
market.  They  too  well  understood  the  purport  of  this 
intimation.  They  were  not,  however,  disturbed  in  their 
occupation,  but  unwilling  to  continue  a  course  of  improve 
ment,  which  might  enure  only  to  the  benefit  of  a  stranger, 
little  further  progress  was  made  in  the  cultivation  of  their 
farms,  and  the  land  was  gradually  abandoned  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  lots. 

In  1840,  only  seven  families  remained  on  the  eighty 
thousand  acres  which  now  forms  the  town  of  North  Elba. 
At  this  time  the  lands  were  offered  for  sale,  emigration 
was  again  directed  to  the  region,  and  the  evidences  of  re 
turning  prosperity  were  restored.  The  public  highways 
were  again  opened  and  improved.  At  this  period  a  new 
episode  occurred  in  the  checkered  history  of  North  Elba. 
Mr.  Gerrit  Smith,  who  had  become  an  extensive  proprietor 
of  the  town,  made  gratuitous  conveyances  of  a  large 


218  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

number  of  quarter  lots,  embracing  forty  acres  each,  to 
colored  persons,  with  the  professed  design,  it  was  under 
stood,  of  forming  a  colony,  which  should  constitute  an 
asylum  for  a  peculiar  class  of  African  population.  I  found 
no  difference  of  opinion  in  that  region,  in  reference  to  the 
character  and  results  of  this  movement.  Whatever  may 
have  been  the  motive  of  the  benefaction,  the  issue  of  the 
experiment  has  entailed  only  disappointment  and  suffering 
upon  the  recipients  of  the  gratuity,  while  the  act  has 
exercised  a  depressing  and  sinister  influence  upon  the 
prosperity  and  reputation  of  the  country.  The  negro,  ill 
adapted  in  his  physical  constitution  to  the  rigorous  climate, 
with  neither  experience  nor  competency  to  the  independent 
management  of  business  affairs,  and  adverse  to  them  from 
habits  and  propensities,  soon  felt  the  inappropriateness  of 
his  position.  He  has  abandoned  his  acquisition  in  disgust 
and  disappointment,  or  became,  in  many  instances,  an  im 
poverished  and  destitute  object  of  public  or  private  charity. 
A  very  considerable  proportion  of  these  freeholds  have  been 
sold  for  taxes ;  others  have  passed  into  the  hands  of  specula 
tors,  and  when  I  visited  the  district  only  a  few  if  any  of 
the  large  number  of  original  grantees  retained  the  occupa 
tion  of  the  farms  they  received.  A  knowledge  of  these 
facts  has  been  widely  diffused,  and  although  the  whole 
scheme  bore  in  its  inception  the  inherent  elements  of  fail 
ure,  the  result  has  been  imputed  not  to  these 'causes,  but 
public  opinion  has  ascribed  it  to  an  inhospitable  climate 
and  the  sterility  of  the  soil. 

During  the  brief  operations  of  the  Adirondac  works,  the 
affairs  of  North  Elba  received  a  fresh  impulse.  A  road  cut 
through  the  forest,  in  the  gorges  of  the  mountains,  gave 
to  the  inhabitants  a  winter  communication  with  that  place, 
where  they  enjoyed  the  advantages  of  a  ready  market,  at 
liberal  prices,  for  all  their  agricultural  commodities. 

North  Elba  was  separated  from  Keene,  and  incorporated 
in  1849.  The  population  of  the  town  is  steadily  advancing, 
and  now  amounts  to  nearly  four  hundred  souls.  Lands 
may  be  purchased,  which  are  adapted  to  farming  purposes, 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  219 

for  from  one  dollar  to  six  dollars  per  acre,  the  price  being 
governed  by  position,  and  the  condition  of  the  premises,  in 
reference  to  improvements  and  cultivation. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 
THE  KEBELLION,  1849-1861. 

Essex  county  was  agitated  by  the  same  admonitions 
which  in  every  part  of  the  republic  disturbed  and  moved 
the  popular  heart  and  presaged  the  approaching  conflict, 
when  the  collision  of  opinion  and  sentiment  should  be 
succeeded  by  the  din  of  arms.  Distant  from  the  imme 
diate  scenes  of  the  terrible  events,  that  shook  the  founda 
tions  of  the  Union,  her  territory  was  exempt  from  much  of 
the  woe  and  suffering  that  desolated  other  sections  of  the 
country.  But  none  met  the  responsibilities  of  the  hour 
with  greater  vigor  and  promptitude,  or  more  freely  offered 
the  libation  of  its  wealth  and  blood,  in  the  common  cause. 

It  is  a  strange  coincidence  that  in  one  of  the  most  re 
mote  and  politically  unimportant  counties  of  New  York, 
and  in  one  of  its  smallest  and  most  secluded  towns,  sepa 
rated  from  the  world  by  vast  mountain  barriers,  an  individual 
should  have  resided,  who  impressed  a  momentous  and 
startling  episode  upon  the  history  of  the  nation,  and  im 
pelled  a  vast  stride  in  the  procession  of  events,  which  cul 
minated  in  the  rebellion. 

I  have  elsewhere  described  the  romantic  town  of  North 
Elba  and  its  beautiful  plateau,  embosomed  among  the 
Adirondacks  and  encircled  by  its  stupendous  amphitheatre 
of  rocks  and  mountains.  Nature,  in  such  a  scene,  would 
cherish  the  reveries  of  religious  fanaticism  and  stimulate 
visions  of  a  social  or  political  enthusiast.  We  have  referred 
to  the  abortive  scheme  of  Mr.  Gerrit  Smith  for  establishing 
in  Essex  county  a  colony  of  emancipated  negroes.  Beoign 
and  worthy  in  its  designs  it  bore  the  inherent  elements  ot 
failure.  It  was  evident  that  the  experiment  was  languish- 


220  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

ing  and  must  eventually  fail.  In  the  year  1849y  a  man 
called  upon  Mr  Smith  and  representing  to  him,  in  refer 
ence  to  the  project  which  had  been  announced  in  the 
public  papers,  that  the  negro,  without  experience  in  his 
contemplated  occupation  and  unaccustomed  to  the  climate, 
was  not  adapted  to  the  intended  colonization.  He  proposed 
to  take  up  a  farm  in  North  Elba,  and  by  affording  the 
negroes  instruction  and  partial  employment  to  aid  in  the 
enterprise.  Mr.  Smith  acquiesced  in  his  views  and  promptly 
conveyed  to  him  a  lot.  This  person  was  John  Brown. 
At  that  time  he  was  a  resident  of  Massachuetts,  but  the 
same  or  the  next  year,  removed  to  North  Elba  with  his 
family  and  flocks  and  herds.  He  ereceted  a  humble  dwell 
ing  house  on  a  slope  of  the  Adirondacks,  and  almost 
beneath  the  shadow  of  their  pinnacles.  This  was  his 
nominal  home  during  the  eventful  scenes  of  the  succeed 
ing  ten  years;  his  family  continued  to  reside  there  until 
after  his  death  and  there  in  a  picturesque  spot  which  he 
himself  selected,  repose  his  remains. 

A  brief  notice  of  this  remarkable  person  seems  to  be 
imposed  on  me  by  his  relations  to  Essex  county.  No  one 
can  resist  the  conviction,  that  John  Brown,  by  the  texture 
of  his  spirit,  and  the  qualities  of  his  mind,  was  no  ordinary 
character.  He  was  a  lineal  descendant  from  a  pilgrim  of 
the  May-Flower,  and  appears  to  have  been  preeminently 
imbued  with  the  stern  religious  enthusiasm,  the  ardent 
zeal,  the  self-reliance  and  the  inflexible  devotion  to  truth 
and  the  peculiar  convictions  of  right  and  justice  he  che 
rished,  that  marked  the  early  Puritan  principles.  His  reli 
gious  fervor  was  inflamed  by  fanaticism.  He  believed 
that  he  maintained  direct  communion  with  heavenly  wis 
dom,  and  that  he  was  guided  by  specific  visions  and 
spiritual  teachings.  His  biographers  represent  him  to 
have  been  a  man  of  constant  prayer,  and  that  the  Bible  was 
uniformly  consulted  as  the  guide  and  counsellor  of  his 
course.  Religious  ordinances  he  not  only  observed  in  his 
own  practices,  but  they  were  maintained  and  inculcated  in 
his  relations  with  others.  In  the  wildest  period  of  his 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY,  221 

Kansas  career,  twice  each  day  he  observed  public  prayer, 
and  at  every  meal  offered  a  grace  of  thanksgiving  and 
praise.  He  united  in  youth  with  the  Congregational 
church,  and  at  an  early  age  commenced  studying  with  a 
view  to  the  ministry,  but  this  purpose  was  arrested  by  & 
severe  affection  of  the  eyes. 

Before  his  settlement  in  North  Elba,  he  had  engaged  in- 
varied  business  pursuits  without  any  considerable  success,, 
and  usually  with  decided  reverses.  In  1848,  he  visited 
Europe  in  the  execution  of  a  wool  speculation,  which  re 
sulted  in  a  disastrous  failure.  During  his-  sojourn  in 
Europe,  his  native  taste  and  love  for  fine  stock  prompted 
him  to  the  inspection  of  the  choice  herds  of  the  various 
countries  he  had  visited.  By  this  means  he  acquired  a 
knowledge  of  their  respective  qualities  and  value,  which 
rendered  him  subsequently  a  useful  citizen  and  intelligent 
breeder  in  Essex  county.  Brown  embraced  at  an  early- 
period  the  most  vehement  anti-slavery  sentiments,  and  in 
1839  imagined  that  by  a  divine  consecration  he  had  been 
constituted  the  liberator  of  the  African  race.  This  idea 
became  the  all  absorbing  passion  of  his  life,  and  to  its  real 
ization  he  subordinated  every  other  feeling. 

We  may  not  assert  that  John  Brown  was  insane,  and  on 
Ms  final  trial  in  Virginia  he  peremptorily  refused  to  allow 
that  defense  to  be  interposed,  although  he  admitted  that 
in  his  maternal  line  a  strong  taint  of  insanity  prevailed 
^vvhich  had  been  frequently  developed.     It  i&  certain  that 
several  members  of  that  branch  of  his  family  were  inmates- 
of  lunatic  asylums,  and  that  the  mind  of  a  son  who  perished 
in  Kansas  was  disordered.     On  the  subject  of  negro  emanci 
pation,  it  can  scarcely  admit  of  doubt,  he  was  a  monomaniac. 
This  fervid  enthusiasm  had  disturbed  the  balance  of  his- 
powerful  and  ardent  mind.     An  inherent  predilection  for 
military  affairs,  cultivated  by  historical  reading,  had  appa 
rently  suggested   the   idea  that  he   was  predestinated  to- 
become  the  military  leader  of  a  slave  insurrection.     We 
can    only    conjecture    of  his   proceedings   before   visiting 
Europe ;  but  while  in  England,  he  sought  intercourse  with 


222  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

the  prominent  abolitionists  of  that  country  and  exposed 
to  them  his  plans.  It  is  evident  that  these  men  did  not 
approve  or  sanction  his  violent  designs.  In  reference  per 
haps  to  his  visions  of  military  duties,  he  constantly  attended 
reviews  in  England  and  upon  the  continent,  and  was  a  close 
and  intelligent  observer  of  the  organization  and  tactics  of 
the  armies  of  the  several  countries.  Stimulated  by  the  same 
feeling  and  avowedly  to  prepare  himself  for  an  impending 
crisis,  Brown  visited  many  of  the  battle-fields  of  Napoleon, 
and  with  the  self-complacent  reliance  on  his  own  powers,  or 
perhaps  presumption,  which  was  a  striking  trait  of  his 
character,  freely  criticized  the  campaigns  of  the  great 
commander  and  often  objected  to  his  strategy.  It  is  a 
singular  fact  that  Brown,  in  his  Kansas  warfare,  brought 
into  practice  on  a  diminutive  scale  the  manoauvres  he  had 
theoretically  preferred  to  those  of  the  French  emperor. 

The  first  prominent  appearance  of  Brown  before  the 
people  of  Essex  county  was  in  connection  with  the  agri 
cultural  fair  of  1850.  The  report  of  the  society  for  that 
year,  thus  refers  to  the  subject :  "  The  appearance  upon 
the  ground  of  a  number  of  very  choice  and  beautiful 
Devons  from  the  herd  of  Mr.  John  Brown  residing  in  one 
of  our  most  remote  and  secluded  towns,  attracted  great  at 
tention,  and  added  much  to  the  interest  of  the  fair.  The 
interest  and  admiration  they  excited  have  attracted  public 
attention  to  the  subject,  and  have  already  resulted  in  the 
introduction  of  several  choice  animals  into  the  region. 
We  have  no  doubt  that  this  influence  upon  the  character 
of  the  stock  of  our  county  will  be  permanent  and  decisive.1 

While  a  resident  of  North  Elba  his  earnest  and  energetic 
character  attracted  jealous  friends,  and  often  aroused  strong 
hostility.  A  peculiarity  of  temperament,  which  moulded 
his  whole  career,  was  a  proneness  to  assert  what  he  be 
lieved  to  be  right  and  just,  with  no  regard  to  any  personal 
interest.  An  iron  will  and  the  determination  of  a  self-reli 
ant  and  decisive  spirit  sustained  by  great  native  intellectual 

1  Transactions  of  New  York  State  Agricultural  Society,  1850. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  223 

properties  conferred  those  qualities  by  which  he  exercised 
a  magnetic  power  over  the  masses. 

When  the  disturbances  arose  in  Kansas,  four  sons  of 
Brown  were  already  there,  and  he  instantly  hastened  to  the 
participation  in  events;  and  he  went  as  to  a  congenial  field, 
in  which  he  recognized  the  first  scenes  of  the  opening  drama 
of  conflict  and  blood.  In  the  council  of  the  Free  State 
party,  he  at  once  attained  an  ascendancy,  and  was  promi 
nent  among  its  active  and  controlling  spirits.  He  was 
everywhere  present,  in  all  the  acts  of  lawlessness  and 
violence  which  debauched  both  parties  and  demoralized 
society.  He  manifested  no  insignificant  skill  and  science 
in  organizing  the  forces  and  constructing  fortifications 
appropriate  to  that  warfare,  and  fought  the  battles  of  his 
party  with  great  conduct  and  intrepidity.  A  partial  subsi 
dence  of  the  turmoils  in  Kansas  allowed  Brown  and  his 
sons  to  return  to  the  east,  with  the  ostensible  object  of 
rejoining  his  family  at  North  Elba.  His  traces  were 
exposed  in  various  sections  of  the  northern  states,  as 
the  active  and  efficient  emissary  of  the  free  state  agitation. 
At  Boston  he  appeared  by  request,  before  a  committee  of 
the  legislature,  to  whom  had  been  submitted  a  proposition 
to  extend  material  aid  to  Kansas,  and  delivered  an  elaborate 
and  inflammatory  address  on  the  public  affairs  of  that 
territory. 

In  the  ensuing  summer  we  again  discern  him  in  Kansas, 
and  his  advent  was  signalized  by  renewed  agitation  and 
conflicts.  Soon  after  his  return,  Brown  entered  the  state 
of  Missouri  with  an  armed  band,  and  by  violence  liberated 
twelve  slaves.  He  led  them  into  Kansas  arid  by  a  slow 
and  scarcely  disguised  progress  conducted  them  through 
Nebraska,  Iowa,  Illinois  and  Michigan,  and  placed  them 
in  security  upon  the  shores  of  Canada.  This  extraordi 
nary  and  lawless  act  astounded  the  country  through  its 
whole  borders,  and  was  severely  reprobated  by  many  of  his 
own  sympathizers.  The  governor  of  Missouri  offered  a 
reward  of  three  thousand  dollars  for  his  arrest.  The  pre 
sident  of  the  United  States  proclaimed  an  additional 


224  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

reward  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars,  with  the  same 
object.  Brown  subsequently  avowed,  that  a  prominent 
motive  which  suggested  this  action,  was  the  desire  of  de 
monstrating  the  practicability  of  a  forcible  liberation  of 
the  American  slaves. 

By  the  sole  authority  of  his  own  name  and  influence,  he 
assembled  a  secret  convention  at  Chatham,  Canada,  com 
posed  of  all  classes  of  his  associates.  Its  proceedings  were 
private,  and  have  never  been  clearly  disclosed.  A  colored 
minister  presided,  and  we  are  authorized  to  assume  that  an 
early  invasion  of  the  south  was  on  that  occasion  discussed 
and  arranged.  From  this  convention  emanated  the  constitu 
tion  that  proposed  to  establish  within  the  United  States  a  pro 
visional  government;  Although  this  instrument  professed 
in  one  article  to  denounce  all  interference  with  the  existing 
state  or  federal  political  organizations,  it  was  calculated  to 
subvert  both.  The  negro  preacher,  who  presided  over  this 
assembly,  was  constituted  president  of  the  contemplated 
government.  This  fantastic  and  extravagant  chimera,  was 
accepted  by  Brown  as  an  actuality.  In  his  brief  subse 
quent  career,  he  professed  to  act  under  the  obligations  of 
the  oath  it  imposed,  and  holding  the  appointment  by  its 
provision  of  a  commander-in-chief,  he  signed  with  that 
designation  the  commissions  of  his  subordinates.  Large 
numbers  of  printed  copies  of  this  document,  designed  to 
be  disseminated,  were  found  in  his  possession  at  Harper's 
ferry.  The  movements  of  Brown  from  this  period,  until 
the  final  catastrophe  closed  his  turbulent  career,  were  more 
disguised  than  they  had  been,  but  were  not  less  active  or 
zealous.  Occasional  glimpses  are  detected,  where  he  ap 
pears  inflaming  the  abolition  sentiment,  haranguing  public 
meetings,  and  never  slumbering  in  his  assaults  upon  the 
existence  of  slavery. 

In  the  month  of  April,  1859,  he  was  in  Essex  county, 
enlisting  associates.  Like  Mahomet,  he  found  his  first  and 
firmest  proselytes  in  his  own  household  and  among  his  own 
kindred.  Five  certainly  of  the  youth  of  North  Elba,  three 
eons,  a  son-in-law  and  a  brother  of  the  latter,  embraced 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  225 

his  views,  and  all  but  one  son  died  amid  the  terrible  scenes 
at  Harper's  Ferry.  Brown  devoted,  it  is  believed,  most  of  the 
eight  months  preceding  the  invasion  of  Virginia  to  the  mili 
tary  organization  of  the  escaped  slaves,  that  had  gathered 
in  Canada.  He  caused  several  hundred  spear  heads,  a 
weapon  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  hand  of  an  undisciplined 
negro,  in  the  service  he  meditated,  to  be  fabricated  in  New 
England  and  transported  to  Harper's  ferry.  That  posi 
tion  had  Jong  before  been  designated  in  the  plans  of  Brown 
as  the  point  at  which  to  initiate  his  proposed  occupation 
of  slave  territory,  and  it  was  selected  with  unusual 
skill  and  forecast.  He  had  been  for  many  years  perfectly 
familiar  with  the  topography  of  that  whole  region.  This 
sierra  he  designed  as  the  base  of  the  guerrilla  war  he 
proposed  to  maintain.  Harper's  Ferry  was  easily  accessi 
ble  from  Canada  and  in  intimate  communication  with  the 
entire  north.  The  seizure  of  the  guns  and  munitions  de 
posited  at  the  arsenal  would  furnish,  he  conceived,  all  the 
means  necessary  for  arming  the  slave  population. 

A  large  unoccupied  farm,  embracing  three  dwelling 
houses,  and  situated  within  a  few  miles  of  Harper's  Ferry, 
was  hired  by  Brown,  under  the  name  of  Smith,  and 
afforded  a  convenient  rendezvous  to  the  initiated,  and  a 
safe  receptacle  for  the  arms  and  ammunition  which  were 
actively  but  cautiously  collected.  The  unusual  deport 
ment  of  these  men  excited  no  small  attention  and  com 
ment,  but  suspicion  was  eluded  by  the  pretext,  that  they 
were  preparing  to  form  an  extensive  wool-growing  esta 
blishment.  The  presence,  among  other  females,  of  a 
daughter,  and  the  wife  of  a  son,  attached  plausibility  to 
these  professions.  With  the  prudence  and  care  which  so 
singularly  contrasted  with  his  reckless  and  violent  schemes, 
the  safety  of  these  women  was  secured  by  their  secret 
return  to  North  Elba,  directly  preceding  the  outbreak. 
Brown  had  designated  the  24th  of  October,  as  the  day  on 
which  to  strike  a  blow,  that  he  hoped  would  secure  the 
fruition  of  all  his  dreams  and  toils.  Either  alarmed  by 
15 


226  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

a  suspicion  of  treachery  among  his  followers,  or  from  a 
natural  fear  of  detection,  he  was  induced  to  anticipate  the 
movement  a  week.  This  change  in  his  plans,  his  friends 
allege,  was  fatal  to  their  primary  success.  It  deranged 
a  concerted  movement  of  the  slaves,  and  defeated  a  co 
operation  from  Canada,  Kansas,  and  New  England. 
Brown,  himself,  did  not  sanction  by  his  language  at 
Charlestown,  this  assertion. 

The  details  of  his  designs  are  shrouded  in  profound  and 
impenetrable  mystery.  He  was  too  shrewd  and  cautious 
to  leave  anything  to  the  revelations  of  paper,  and  main 
tained  after  his  capture  an  inflexible  silence,  which  he 
earnestly  enjoined  on  his  associates  in  their  final  interview. 
This  course  was  the  promptings  of  a  determination  not 
to  prejudice  by  any  disclosures  the  cause  he  had  so  earn 
estly  cherished,  and  to  shield  his  secret  coadjutors  from 
the  consequences  of  a  complicity  in  his  acts.  The  dreams 
and  purposes  that  excited  his  feverish  mind  are  buried  in 
his  grave,  and  we  now  can  only  speculate  upon  the  nature 
of  designs,  which,  to  the  calm  judgment  of  history,  seem 
to  have  been  suggested  by  a  wild  and  insane  fanaticism, 
that  inspired  the  attempt,  with  seventeen  white  and  five 
negro  followers,  to  uproot  a  system  the  growth  of  centu 
ries,  and  to  oppose  and  defy  the  forces  not  merely  of  the 
southern  states  but  all  the  powers  of  the  federal  govern 
ment.  The  facts  which  have  been  disclosed  warrant  the 
inference,  that  the  plans  of  Brown  embraced  the  design 
of  the  surprise  of  Harper's  Ferry ;  the  capture  of  the 
arsenal;  the  seizure  of  prominent  citizens  to  be  held  as 
hostages  and  ransomed  by  a  supply  of  provisions  or  the 
liberation  of  slaves,  and  an  escape  to  the  mountains  with 
the  arms  and  ammunition  he  might  secure.  He  hoped  to 
maintain  himself  among  the  fastnesses  of  the  mountains 
until  he  should  be  supported  from  the  north  and  relieved 
by  the  general  servile  insurrection,  he  believed  his  presence 
would  enkindle.  He  would  possess  ample  means,  with 
his  rifles  and  spears,  to  arm  the  slaves.  His  schemes  were 
admirably  conceived,  and  the  execution  attempted  with 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  227 

equal  courage  and  skill.1  All  his  designs  were  accom 
plished,  as  far  as  he  advanced,  except  the  last  and  most 
essential  step.  He  failed  to  retreat  into  the  mountains. 
For  hours  he  held  the  ability  to  execute  unopposed  this 
measure ;  but  his  wonted  vigor  and  promptness  abandoned 
him,  and  while  he  hesitated,  lingering  in  doubt,  his  foes 
enclosed  him  and  the  opportunity  was  lost.  Brown  asserts 
that  this  hesitation  was  prompted  by  motives  of  humanity ; 
others  conjecture  that  he  cherished  the  expectation  of  an 
uprising  of  the  slaves. 

Enveloped  by  an  overwhelming  force  of  the  militia  of 
Maryland  and  Virginia  and  federal  marines,  Brown  sus 
tained  his  position  with  a  mere  handful  of  men  in  the 
arsenal  building,  until  the  second  night,  and  when  the  door 
was  at  length  burst  open,  he  and  three  others  alone  survived. 
One  of  these  was  instantly  killed  and  Brown  himself  cut 
down  by  frightful  sabre  wounds.  A  son  and  daughter's 
husband  were  dead,  and  another  son  expiring  under  a 
mortal  wound  lay  before  him.  A  small  party,  including  a 
third  son  of  Brown,  which  had  been  left  in  charge  of 
the  farm  buildings,  effected  an  escape.  The  remainder 
of  the  band  were  either  slain  in  the  streets  or  captured. 
Several  citizens  were  also  killed  or  wounded  in  the  conflict. 
When  the  arrest  of  Brown,  and  the  few  followers  who 
escaped  immediate  death  had  been  effected,  the  popular 
exasperation  was  controlled  by  the  authorities;  no  outrage 
was  committed  against  them.  Brown  was  removed  to  the 
jail  at  Charlestown,  his  wounds  were  nursed,  his  wants 
relieved  and  to  his  friends  a  free  access  allowed  to  his 
prison.  Brown  complained  of  the  precipitancy  of  his  trial ; 
but  under  the  circumstance  it  appears  not  to  have  been 
urged  with  any  ungenerous  haste,  and  although  the  weight 
of  incontestible  facts  rendered  it  a  mere  form,  it  was  con 
ducted  with  justice  and  fairness.  He  was  legally  convicted 


1 "  It  is  in  vain  to  underrate  either  the  man  or  the  conspiracy  *  *  * 
Certainly  it  was  one  of  the  best  planned  and  best  executed  conspiracies  that 
ever  failed." — Mr.  Vallandigham. 


228  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

and  justly  executed,  but  no  indignity  offended  the  solem 
nities  of  justice.  His  body  was  respectfully  delivered  to 
the  tender  care  of  his  wife  and  friends. 

The  ruling  passion  of  the  enthusiast  was  illustrated  in 
his  progress  from  the  prison  cell  to  the  scaffold,  when  he 
paused  to  kiss  and  bless  a  negro  infant.  The  transcend- 
ant  and  eccentric  tone  of  his  sentiment  was  exhibited  in 
the'  desire  expressed  to  his  wife,  that  she  should  collect  the 
bodies  of  their  two  sons  and  his  own,  place  them  on  a 
funeral  pyre,  consume  their  flesh,  transport  the  bones  to 
Essex  county,  and  inter  them  on  the  farm  at  North  Elba. 
"With  just  sensibility  she  removed  the  purpose  from  his 
mind.  Mr.  Washington,  one  of  the  hostages  held  by 
Brown,  attested  to  his  humane  solicitude  for  their  safety 
during  the  assault.  The  high  intelligence  and  elevated 
sentiment  disclosed  in  his  conversations  while  in  prison ; 
his  heroic  resolution  ;  and  the  steady  firmness  and  unfalter 
ing  spirit  with  which  he  encountered  his  fate,  extorted 
the  admiration  even  of  the  enemies,  upon  whom  his 
designs  were  calculated  to  inflict  the  direst  woes.1 

Komance  rarely  delineated  a  more  impressive  scene 
than  is  described  by  Mr.  Washington  :  "  Brown  was  the 
coolest  and  firmest  man  he  ever  saw  in  defying  danger 
and  death.  With  one  son  dead  by  his  side,  and  another 
shot  through,  he  felt  the  pulse  of  his  dying  son  with  one 
hand,  held  his  rifle  with  the  other,  and  commanded  his 
men  with  the  utmost  composure." 

It  is  not  my  province  to  discuss  the  character  or  aspect  of 
these  events.  Glancing  at  them  as  they  constituted  by  the 
action  of  its  citizens,  a  fragment  of  the  history  of  Essex 
county,  I  have  discharged  my  duty  and  yield  to  others  their 
defense  or  denunciation.  Deluded  and  stimulated  by  a 

1 "  He  is  a  man  of  clear  head,  of  courage,  fortitude,  and  simple  ingenuous 
ness.  He  is  cool,  collected,  and  indomitable,  and  he  inspired  me  with 
trust  in  his  integrity  as  a  man  of  truth."  "  He  is  a  fanatic,  vain  and  garru 
lous,  but  firm,  truthful,  and  intelligent."—  Governor  Wise's  speech  at  Rich 
mond. 

*2dem. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  229 

frenzied  zeal  and  blindly  reckless  as  he  was  to  the  conse 
quences  of  his  enthusiasm,  Brown  apparently  fostered,  in  the 
prosecution  of  his  designs,  no  aspirations  of  personal  ambi 
tion,  nor  was  he  impelled  by  any  lust  of  wealth  or  by  indi 
vidual  hostility  to  those  he  assailed.  He  believed  himself 
to  be  a  chosen  instrument  in  the  hands  of  God ;  and  to  the 
imaginary  behests  of  duty  he  devoted  his  own  life,  and 
sacrificed  the  blood  of  his  sons  and  the  happiness  of  his 
family.1  With  feelings  not  insensible  to  the  domestic  affec 
tions  he  witnessed  without  regret,  the  deaths  of  his  disci 
ples :  he  felt  no  remorse  for  the  blood  of  unoffending 
citizens  by  his  acts,  shed  before  their  own  peaceful  homes, 
nor  did  he  recoil  from  the  certain  horrors  of  a  war  of  races, 
that  he  hoped  to  arouse.  His  mind,  under  the  dominion  of 
the  wild  visions  and  extravagant  hallucinations  that  in 
flamed  it,  rejected  all  fealty  to  the  federal  constitution. 
He  did  not  accept  its  paramount  obligation  ;  he  did  not 
recognize  its  sanctions  and  guaranties.  A  regard  to  so 
cial  order  and  the  restraints  that  secure  protection  to  life 
and  property  were  powerless  to  control  or  modify  his  course. 
All  these  emotions,  sacred  to  most  minds,  were  extin 
guished  or  subverted  in  the  pursuit  of  his  one  great 
dominant  passion. 

The  invasion  of  Brown  will  hereafter  be  recognized  as 
an  active  cause  in  accelerating,  if  it  did  not  produce,  events 
which  subjected  the  institutions  of  the  Union  to  that  ordeal 
they  were  predestinated  at  some  period  to  encounter.  The 
inherent  jealousies  of  the  people  of  the  south  were  inflamed; 
they  naturally  regarded  this  attempt  as  a  manifestation  of 
a  determined  purpose  in  the  north  of  armed  aggression, 
while  the  very  hopelessness  of  its  audacity  was  calculated 
to  intensify  this  alarm  arid  excitement.  They  saw  in  this 
movement  the  barriers  of  the  constitution  crumbling  in  the 
progress  of  the  abolition  spirit.  The  death  of  Brown  sup- 

1  In  one  small  school  district,  hidden  among  the  mountains,  where  we 
might  hope  that  the  strifes  of  the  great  world  would  never  enter,  and  com 
posed  of  scarcely  twice  that  number  of  families,  five  were  made  widows  by 
the  tragedy  at  Harper's  Ferry. 


230  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

plied  fuel  to  the  enkindling  fires  of  the  anti-slavery  senti 
ment  in  the  free  states.  He  was  regarded  by  the  disciples 
of  his  faith,  not  as  a  felon,  but  as  a  martyr,  whose  blood 
had  consecrated  a  sacred  principle.  The  hour  of  his  exe 
cution  was  solemnized  by  a  large  class  of  the  northern 
people  with  religious  exercises  and  the  tolling  bell,  and  as 
his  body  was  borne  through  many  a  village  the  solemn 
knell  proclaimed  the  deep  sorrow  of  his  sympathizers.  An 
immense  concourse  formed  from  every  grade  of  society, 
dignified  his  obsequies.  Such  exhibitions  of  adverse  feel 
ing  tended  to  deepen  the  alienation  between  the  sections; 
to  excite  stronger  antagonisms,  and  to  hasten  the  appeal  to 
the  terrible  arbitrament  of  arms.  The  presages  of  Brown 
were  singularly  accomplished  when,  before  even  the  moss 
had  gathered  upon  his  solitary  mountain  grave,  the  armed 
tread  of  thousands  was  moved  by  an  anthem  inspired  by 
his  blood,  iind  which  so  often  sounded  above  the  clangor  of 
the  conflict  and  the  shoutings  of  the  battle-field. 

The  tide  of  patriotic  enthusiasm  which  rolled  over  the 
northern  states,  when  the  national  banner  had  been  fired 
upon  at  Fort  Surnter,  rose  high  among  the  mountains  of 
Essex.  No  section  of  the  state  responded  with  superior 
zeal  and  alacrity  to  the  requisition  by  the  government  for 
aid.  When  counties  subsequently  found  it  expedient  to 
claim  credit  on  their  military  quotas,  it  was  ascertained  that 
Essex  county  had  been  prejudiced  by  this  promptitude,  and 
had  in  the  early  stages  of  the  war  supplied  troops  much  in 
excess  of  her  just  proportion.  Neither  was  the  county 
surpassed  in  the  fervor  and  decision  by  which  the  popular 
sentiment  sustained  the  military  measures  of  the  govern 
ment.  Public  meetings  were  immediately  assembled  in 
most  of  the  towns  to  promote  enlistment  by  both  influence 
and  contributions.  Women  of  every  class  combined  their 
labors  to  furnish  clothing  and  every  requisite  for  the  com 
fort  and  efficienc}7  of  the  volunteers.  Few  families  declined 
to  impart  from  their  household  goods,  when  called  upon  by 
committees  who  visited  every  district,  to  relieve  the  wants 
of  the  soldiers,  which  the  government  at  that  period  could 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  231 

not  adequately  supply.    The  national  flag  or  patriotic  sym 
bols  floated  from  nearly  every  dwelling. 

The  proclamation  of  the  president  announcing  the  call 
for  the  first  seventy-five  thousand  volunteers  had  scarcely 
reached  the  county  when  in  various  sections  the  enlist 
ment  of  five  different  companies  was  simultaneously  com 
menced.  These  companies  were  in  a  large  proportion,  but 
not  exclusively,  recruited  from  Essex  county,  while  numbers 
of  her  sons  enlisted  in  different  organizations  both  in  NQW 
York  and  other  states. 

A  company  was  recruited  in  Keeseville,  and  composed 
in  about  equal  proportions  of  residents  of  Essex  and 
Clinton  counties.  Gorton  T.  Thomas  was  elected  captain 
of  this  company,  and  Oliver  D.  Peabody  1st  lieutenant, 
and  Carlisle  D  Beaumont  2d  lieutenant.  Another  com 
pany  was  raised  in  Schroon  from  the  southern  towns  of 
Essex  and  parts  of  Warren  county.  The  officers  elected 
were  Lyman  Ormsby,  captain,  J.  R.  Seaman,  1st  lieu 
tenant,  and  Daniel  Burgey,  2d  lieutenant.  A  third  com 
pany  was  recruited  in  Moriah,  and  other  eastern  towns, 
and  elected  Miles  P.  S.  Cadwell  captain,  Edward  F.  Ed- 
gerly  and  Clark  W.  Huntley,  first  and  second  lieutenants. 
These  companies  were  distinguished  as  Companies  C,  I, 
and  K,  of  the  Twenty-second  regiment  New  York  Volun 
teers,  in  which  they  were  incorporated  on  its  organization 
upon  June  6th,  1861.  On  the  promotion  of  Captain 
Thomas,  Lieutenants  Peabody  and  Beaumont  were  re 
spectively  advanced  a  grade,  and  Charles  B.  Pierson 
appointed  2d  lieutenant  of  Company  C.  A  company 
raised  in  Crown  Point  and  the  adjacent  towns,  embracing 
one  hundred  and  eight  men,  of  which  Leland  L.  Doolittle 
was  elected  captain,  Hiram  Buck,  Jr.,  1st,  and  John  B. 
Wright  2d  lieutenant,  was  mustered  into  service  as  Com 
pany  H,  of  the  Thirty-fourth  regiment  of  New  York 
Volunteers.  Before  the  departure  of  this  company  for 
Albany,  it  was  supplied  with  every  equipment  except 
arms,  at  an  expense  of  $2,000,  by  the  characteristic 
patriotism  and  munificence  of  the  people  of  Crown  Point. 


232  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

The  fifth  company,  recruited  in  Elizabethtown  and  the 
central  towns  of  the  county,  was  incorporated  as  Company 
K,  into  the  Thirty-eighth  regiment,  and  was  the  last 
company  accepted  from  New  York  by  the  government 
under  the  first  proclamation.  Samuel  C.  Dwyer  was 
elected  captain  of  this  company,  William  H.  Smith  1st, 
and  Augustus  C.  H.  Livingstone  2d  lieutenant.  To 
describe  adequately  the  services  of  these  troops,  and  the 
other  organizations  which  the  county  yielded  to  the  exi 
gencies  of  the  country,  would  demand  a  narrative  of 
the  campaigns  in  which  they  participated.  I  can  only 
attempt  to  present  very  summarily  a  general  view  of  the 
endurance,  the  toils  and  achievements  of  the  volunteers  of 
Essex. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

THE  VOLUNTEERS. 

The  Twenty-Second  New  York  Volunteers. 

On  the  16th  May,  1861,  this  regiment  was  accepted  by 
the  government,  and  Walter  Phelps,  Jr.,  of  Glen's  Falls, 
commissioned  colonel,  Gorton T.  Thomas  ofKeeseville  lieu 
tenant-colonel,  and  John  Me  Kee,  Jr.,  of  Cambridge,  major. 
It  left  Albany  for  Washington  on  the  28th  of  June,  and 
while  passing  through  Baltimore  on  the  night  of  the  30th, 
was  assailed  at  the  depot  by  an  armed  mob.  A  private 1 
was  killed,  but  the  regiment  was  promptly  formed,  and 
returned  the  fire,  wounding  several  of  the  assailants. 
Order  was  soon  restored  by  the  city  police,  and  the  troops 
proceeded  on  their  march  without  further  molestation. 
The  22d  was  employed  until  the  April  following,  in  garri 
son  duty  and  occasional  reconnaissances  in  the  vicinity 
of  Washington.  Through  the  several  months  following, 

1  Edward  Burge,  Company  I,  of  Pottersville,  Warren  county. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.         .          233 

it  was  occupied  in  services,  that  most  severely  try  the 
spirit,  the  constancy  and  endurancy  of  the  soldier.  It 
was  constantly  engaged  in  marches  and  changes  of  position 
amid  rain  and  darkness,  or  rushed  from  station  to  station, 
upon  open  and  comfortless  cars,  and  upon  tedious  and 
fruitless  expeditions. 

At  length,  the  ardent  aspirations  of  the  regiment  for 
active  service  seemed  about  to  be  gratified,  when  as  a 
part  of  McDowell's  corps  it  was  ordered  to  advance  in 
support  of  the  army  of  the  Potomac,  but  arrested  on  the 
threshold  of  this  movement,  McDowell  was  directed  towards 
the  Shenandoah.  After  the  battle  of  Cedar  mountain,  the 
regiment  participated  in  the  continuous  engagement,  which 
extended  through  several  successive  days  in  the  vicinity  of 
that  field.  On  the  27th  of  August,  it  marched  with  its 
divisions  from  Warrenton  in  the  direction  of  Gainesville 
with  the  design  of  intercepting  the  retreat  of  Jackson,  who 
had  attempted  to  penetrate  to  the  rear  of  the  Union  lines, 
and  of  breaking  up  his  command.  Ignorant  of  the  posi 
tion  of  the  enemy,  the  divisions  advanced  slowly  and  with 
extreme  caution.  On  the  second  day  of  its  march  Jackson 
was  discovered  near  Gainesville  in  great  force.  The  federal 
troops  consisted  of  King's  division,  and  were  commanded 
by  McDowell  in  person. 

The  line  of  battle  was  promptly  formed  and  an  action 
immediately  and  about  an  hour  before  sunset,  commenced. 
McDowell's  position  was  upon  the  Gainesville  pike,  while 
the  rebels  occupied  a  wood  about  a  half  a  mile  in  front, 
with  open  fields  between  the  two  armies.  The  engagement 
was  opened  by  a  furious  cannonade  on  both  sides.  The 
rebels  had  secured  an  accurate  range  of  the  road,  and 
swept  it  by  a  continual  storm  of  shells,  and  with  fearful 
accuracy.  A  battery,  supported  by  the  Twenty-second  regi 
ment,  was  silenced  and  almost  instantly  annihilated.  A 
ditch  running  parallel  to  the  pike  afforded  a  protection  to 
the  regiment,  while  the  shells  and  shot,  passing  just  above 
them,  completely  furrowed  and  tore  up  the  road.  For  an 


234  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

hour  this  firing  was  maintained  with  unabated  vigor,  when 
the  enemy  emerging  from  the  woods  in  a  magnificent  line 
a  mile  in  length,  charged,  uttering  the  wildest  yells  as  they 
rushed  upon  the  Union  position.  All  the  Federal  batteries 
directed  by  McDowell  personally,  which  could  be  brought 
to  bear,  opened  upon  them,  with  grape  and  canuister.  At 
every  discharge,  broad  gaps  were  visible  in  their  ranks. 
The  Wisconsin  brigade  attached  to  this  division  poured 
upon  them  a  terrible  volley,  and  along  both  lines  the  fire 
of  musketry  was  incessant  and  severe.  The  rebels  paused 
in  their  advance,  but  stubbornly  sustained  their  position 
until  dark,  and  then  slowly  and  defiantly  withdrew,  leaving 
the  Union  troops  in  possession  of  the  field.  They  remained 
on  the  ground  until  midnight,  and  then,  in  order  to  receive 
rations,  fell  back  to  Manasses  Junction.  The  Wisconsin 
brigade  lost  nearly  half  its  strength  in  killed  and  wounded; 
but  the  Twenty-second  regiment  owing  to  its  protected 
position,  escaped  with  only  slight  casualties. 

While  the  Twenty-second  with  its  brigade,  was  reposing 
in  this  brief  bivouac,  Fitz  John  Porter's  corps,  early  on  the 
29th,  marched  past  them  to  the  front,  and  was  soon  after 
followed  by  the  brigade.  The  fighting  raged  through  the 
day,  Jackson  gradually  falling  back,  towards  Thoroughfare 
Gap.  The  Twenty-second  was  not  engaged,  until  towards 
evening;  King's  division  was  then  ordered  to  charge  the 
retreating  enemy,  and  to  complete  their  fancied  defeat. 
With  loud  and  exultant  cheers,  they  were  pursued  the  dis 
tance  of  half  a  mile,  in  apparent  great  disorder,  when  the 
Union  troops  were  suddenly  arrested  by  a  withering  dis 
charge  of  small  arms.  The  division,  instead  of  being 
deployed  to  meet  this  attack,  was  massed  in  solid  order  and 
attempted  to  advance  at  double  quick.  In  this  form  and 
unable  to  fire  except  in  the  front,  it  received  destructive 
discharges,  in  front  and  from  a  wood  upon  the  left  flank. 
The  troops  by  their  formation  were  rendered  almost  power 
less  for  offensive  action.  Darkness  was  approaching  ;  the 
men  began  to  give  way,  and  the  promise  of  victory  was 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  235 

soon  converted  into  an  utter  rout.     This  engagement  was 
known  as  the  battle  of  Groveton  or  Kittle  run. 

After  this  disaster,  the  division  was  attached  to  Porter's 
corps.  Cannonading  and  skirmishing  continued  along 
the  whole  front,  through  the  30th,  until  about  two  P.  M., 
when  the  entire  line  was  ordered  to  advance  in  a  simul 
taneous  charge.  The  brigade,  to  which  the  Twenty- 
second  belonged,  was  in  the  van  of  this  division.  The 
charging  column  of  the  division  was  two  regiments  deep; 
the  Fourteenth  New  York,  on  the  right,  and  the  Thirtieth 
New  York  on  the  left,  and  followed  by  the  Twenty-second 
and  Twenty-fourth  New  York,  at  a  distance  of  about 
twenty  yards,  Burden's  sharp-shooters  being  deployed  as 
skirmishers.  This  force  constituted  the  brigade.  The 
Union  troops  charged  through  a  wood  into  an  open  field. 
The  rebels  were  entrenched  about  two  hundred  yards  in 
advance,  behind  a  rail  road  embankment,  and  immedi 
ately  opened  a  heavy  fire  with  grape,  cannister,  solid  shot 
and  shell,  supported  by  a  terrible  discharge  of  musketry. 
The  roar  of  cannon  was  deafening,  and  the  air  was  filled 
with  missiles,  but  the  gallant  brigade  rushed  forward. 
The  Twenty-second  became  intermingled  with  the  Thir 
tieth,  when  within  fifty  yards  of  the  enemy's  line,  and  was 
compelled  to  halt.  At  that  moment  the  rebels  were 
abandoning  their  works,  and  scattering  in  every  direction  ; 
many  throwing  down  their  arms,  came  into  the  federal 
ranks.  But  the  pause  was  fatal  to  the  promised  success. 
The  troops  of  the  brigade  hesitated  to  advance,  and  com 
menced  a  rapid  and  disordered  firing.  The  confidence  of 
the  rebels  was  restored  by  this  hesitancy,  and  they  imme 
diately  reoccupied  their  strong  position.  The  fire  of  the 
enemy,  which  had  been  partially  suspended,  was  now 
resumed  with  increased  intensity.  The  Union  troops  were 
rapidly  falling,  and  it  was  next  to  impossible  to  remove 
the  wounded  from  the  field,  as  both  flanks  were  swept  by 
the  enemy's  guns.  At  this  j  uncture,  a  brigade  was  ordered 
to  the  support  of  the  troops,  in  their  perilous  and  terrible 
position ;  but  it  had  scarcely  emerged  from  the  wood,  be- 


236  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

fore  it  broke  and  fell  back.  The  firing  on  both  sides  con 
tinued  rapid  and  unremitting.1 

The  remnant  of  the  brigade  able  to  fight  continued  to 
fire  until  their  ammunition  was  all  expended,  and  then 
slowly  withdrew,  closely  pursued  by  the  enemy.  The 
whole  army  soon  after  fell  back  upon  Centreville.  On  the 
retreat  there  was  neither  panic  nor  rout,  but  the  troops 
sternly  retired,  fighting  as  they  retreated. 

The  casualties  of  the  Twenty-second  in  the  battles  of  these 
bloody  days  were  severe  almost  beyond  a  parallel.  On 
the  29th,  its  effective  strength  was  six  hundred  and 
twenty-six  men.  Its  loss  in  killed,  wounded  and  missing, 
according  to  the  record  of  the  military  bureau,  was  five 
hundred  and  four.  The  regiment  entered  the  field  with 
twenty-five  officers,  and  on  the  night  on  which  it  fell  back 
to  Centreville,  it  retained  only  one  captain  and  four  lieu 
tenants.  Colonel  Frisbie  commanding  the  brigade  on  the 
30th  was  killed,  while  urging  the  troops  to  advance. 

Lieutenant  Colonel  Gorton  T.  Thomas  was  mortally 
wounded,  and  soon  after  died  in  the  hospital.2  Among 
the  other  losses  of  the  regiment,  were,  in  company  C.  Lieu 
tenants  C.  1).  Beaumont  killed  and  Charles  B.  Pierson, 

1  It  was  a  bright  and  clear  day,  and  the  smoke  disappeared  rapidly.  On 
looking  back  upon  the  field,  it  appeared  like  the  surface  of  a  pond  in  a  rain 
storm;  the  dust  being  kept  in  continual  agitation  by  the  pattering  of  the 
bullets.  *  *  *  The  roar  of  cannon  was  so  great  that  a  man  could  not  hear  the 
report  of  his  own  gun.  Indeed,  instances  occurred  of  soldiers  continuing 
to  load  after  their  pieces  had  missed  fire,  until  they  were  charged  to  the 
muzzles  and  rendered  useless.  There  was  no  difficulty  in  procuring  others, 
as  the  ground  was  strewn  with  them.  Many  changed  their  muskets,  as 
the  barrels  had  become  so  heated  by  the  rapid  firing,  that  they  could  not  be 
held. — Captain  Edgerty's  letter. 

a  Lieutenant  Colonel  Thomas  was  shot  in  the  body,  but  maintained  his 
seat,  until,  incapable  of  controlling  his  horse,  he  was  borne  into  the  ranks  of 
the  sharpshooters,  and  there  by  a  singular  concidence,  when  falling  from 
the  saddle,  was  received  into  the  arms  of  two  neighboring  boys  attached  to 
that  regiment.  He  was  carried  by  them  to  a  house  in  the  vicinity,  and  from 
thence  was  removed  to  the  hospital  at  Washington,  where  he  died  of  internal 
hemorrhage.  No  braver  spirit  or  truer  patriot  moved  on  the  battle-fields 
of  the  rebellion.  The  name  of  Colonel  Thomas  was  the  first  attached  to 
the  enlisting  roll  in  the  valley  of  the  Au  Sable. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  237 

mortally  wounded,  and  Captain  0.  D.  Peabody,  wounded; 
in  Company  I,  Captain  Lyman  Ormsby  and  Lieutenant 
Daniel  Burgey,  wounded ;  in  Company  K,  Captain  M.  P. 
S.  Cadwell,  killed,  Lieutenants  E.  F.  Edgerly  and  C.  W. 
Huntley,  wounded,  the  former  twice.  These  companies 
averaged  in  these  actions,  a  loss  of  nearly  thirty  men  each.1 

On  the  6th  of  November,  the  Twenty-second  moved 
from  its  encampment  at  Upton's  hill  to  act  in  the  Antietam 
campaign.  Its  feeble  relics  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-six 
combatants  fought  at  South  Mountain,  were  closely  en 
gaged  and  suffered  heavily.  The  entire  brigade  in  this 
action  and  at  Antietam  was  under  the  command  of  Colonel 
Phelps.  At  Antietam  the  regiment  was  constantly  ex 
posed  to  a  raking  artillery  fire,  and  out  of  sixty-seven,  its 
whole  remaining  strength,  it  lost  twenty-seven  men.  It 
was  engaged,  with  its  ranks  restored  to  two  hundred  and 
ten  effective  strength,  at  Fredericksburg  and  afterwards 
at  Chancellorville,  and  although  conspicuous  in  its  conduct 
in  those  actions  its  casualties  were  inconsiderable.  After 
the  disaster  at  Chancellorville,  the  brigade  acted  as  ^rear 
guard  to  the  arnry  and  gallantly  covered  its  retreat.  On 
the  succeeding  19th  of  June,  on  the  expiration  of  its  term 
of  enlistment,  the  Twenty-second  was  mustered  out  of  ser 
vice  at  Albany. 

Subsequent  to  the  desolation  it  sustained  in  the  battles 
of  the  29th  and  30th  of  August  the  regimental  organiza 
tion  was  restored  by  the  appointment  of  Major  McKie, 
lieutenant-colonel,  and  Thomas  M.  Strong,  major.  The 
changes  which  occurred  in  the  companies  connected  with 
Essex  county,  from  their  excessive  losses,  were  numerous. 
In  Company  C,  Beaumont  and  Pierson  were  succeeded  by 
Gorton  T.  Thomas,  Jr.,  and  James  Yalleau  ;  in  Com 
pany  C,  Lieutenant  Burgey  was  promoted  on  the  resig 
nation  of  Seaman  and  B.  F.  "Wickham  appointed  second 

1 1  have  indulged  in  more  minute  details  in  reference  to  these  events  than 
my  space  usually  allows,  but  it  was  the  first  great  sacrifice  that  the  district 
offered  to  the  war,  and  its  people  will  always  cherish  a  deep  and  peculiar, 
though  sad  interest  in  the  gloomy  narrative. 


238  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

lieutenant ;  in  Company  K,  Lieutenant  B.  F.  Edgerly  was 
promoted  to  the  captaincy.  Sergeant  John  I.  Baker  was 
appointed  first  lieutenant  in  place  of  Huntley,  discharged 
from  disability  on  account  of  wounds,  and  Charles  Bellamy, 
sergeant,  promoted  to  second  lieutenant.1 

Officers  attached  to  the  Twenty-second  Regiment  when  mustered  out 
of  service ,  June  19</i,  1863. 

Walter  Phelps,  Jr.,  Col.  brevet  Benj.  F.  Wickham,  Captain. 

Brig.  Gen.  U.  S.  V.  Edward  F.  Edgerly, 

Thomas  J.  Strong,  Lt.  Col.  Amos  T.  Calkins,  1st  Lieutenant. 

Lyinan  Ormsby,  Major.  A.  Hallock  Holbrook,     u 

Malachi  Weidraan,  Adjutant.  Win.  H.  Hoystradt,         " 

James  W.  Schenck,  Q.  M.  Gorton  T.  Thomas, 

Elias  L.  Bissell,  Surgeon.  Henry  Cook, 

Austin  W .  Holden,  Assist.  Surg.,  Warren  Allen, 

brevet  Major  N.  Y.  V.  James  H.  Merrill, 

Henry  J.  Bates,  Chaplain.  John  J.  Baker, 

Addison  L.  Easterbrooks,  Capt.  Asa  W.  Berry, 

Matthew  L.  Teller,  Patrick  McCall,  2d  Lieutenant. 

James  W.  McCoy,  James  Valleau, 

Oliver  D.  Peabody,  Capt.,  brevet  Charles  H.  Aiken,        " 

Major  and  Lieut.  Colonel.  George  C.  Kiugsley,     " 

Lucius  E.  Wilson,  Captain.  Salmon  D.  Sherman,     " 

Daniel  Burgey,  George  Wetmore, 

Fred.  E.  Ranger,  Lester  A.  Bartlett, 

Duncan  Cameron,  Charles  F.  Bellamy,      " 

Resignations  and  discharges  of  officers   attached   to  Essex    County 

Companies. 

Joseph  R  Seaman.  1st  lieutenant,  resigned  Feb.  26th,  1862. 
Clark  W.  Huntley,  1st  lieutenant,  discharged  Feb.  6th,  1863,  on 
account  of  disability. 

The  first  regimental  Hag  of  the  Twenty-second  was  lost 
at  second  Bull  Run.  Another  which  was  borne  through 
its  subsequent  battles  is  deposited  in  the  military  bureau. 

1  Besides  official  documents  to  which  I  had  access,  I  am  indebted  to  inform 
ation  from  the  officers  of  the  Twenty-second,  and  especially  to  Captain  E. 
F.  Edgerly  for  the  facts  I  have  referred  to  in  the  text  and  incidents. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  239 

Perforated  by  forty-six  bullet  holes,  and  its  staff  wounded 
by  a  ball,  it  is  an  eloquent  witness  to  the  perils  and 
endurance  of  the  regiment. 

The  Thirty-fourth  Regiment  New  York  Volunteers. 

This  regiment,  to  which  the  company  raised  in  Crown 
Point,  commanded  by  Captain  Doolittle,  was  attached  as 
company  H,  was  organized  on  the  24th  of  May,  1861,  by 
the  elections  of  William  La  Due,  colonel,  James  A.  Suitor 
lieut.  colonel,  and  Byron  Laffin,  major.  The  original  offi 
cers  of  Company  H  left  the  service  at  an  early  period. 
Capt.  Doolittle  resigned  October,  1861.  Lt.  Buck  was  not 
mustered  in,  and  Lt.  Wright,  having  been  promoted  to  till 
these  vacancies,  1st  lieutenant  May  llth,  and  captain 
November  llth,  resigned  on  the  28th  November,  1861. 
James  McCormick  of  Crown  Point  was  appointed  2d 
lieutenant,  September  29th,  1862,  and  promoted  1st  lieute 
nant  May  8th,  1863.  Simeon  P.  Mclntyre  was  appointed 
2d  lieutenant  January,  1863,  and  George  B.  Coates  Decem 
ber,  1862.  Each  of  these  officers  was  mustered  out  with 
the  regiment  June  30th,  1863.  The  Thirty-fourth  arrived  at 
Washington  the  5th  July,  1861.  It  was  soon  after  assigned 
to  duty  on  the  upper  Potomac.  It  was  attached  to  the 
brigade  then  commanded  by  General  Stone.  The  regiment 
was  ordered  to  Ball's  Bluff,  but  only  arrived  in  time  to  aid 
in  the  removal  of  the  wounded.  Until  the  following  spring 
it  was  occupied  in  continual  harassing  marches,  and  par 
ticipated  in  all  the  hard  services,  which  were  at  that  period 
encountered  by  most  of  the  army.  The  regiment  at  this 
time  became  attached  to  the  first  brigade  commanded  by 
General  Gorman  and  the  second  division  of  the  second 
corps,  and  remained  in  this  organization  during  its  subse 
quent  services. 

The  Thirty-fourth  landed  at  Hampton  at  the  initiation  of 
the  peninsula  campaign  on  the  first  of  April,  1862.  It  was 
actively  engaged  in  the  siege  of  Yorktown,  and  was  the 
first  regiment  in  the  enemy's  works  at  Winne's  mills.  At 
Fair  Oaks  it  was  eminently  distinguished,  and  was  warmly 


240  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

engaged  for  nearly  three  hours,  with  a  loss  of  ninety-four 
killed  and  wounded.  The  Thirty-fourth  participated  in 
most  of  the  operations  of  this  campaign,  and  at  Glendale 
and  Malvern  Hill  lost  more  than  one  hundred  men,  and 
was  compelled  in  the  first  action  to  abandon  its  killed  and 
wounded  to  the  enemy.  It  was  now  subjected  to  a  series 
of  the  most  vigorous  picket  and  field  duties,  and  on  the 
withdrawal  of  the  army  of  the  Potomac  from  the  peninsula, 
the  regiment  endured  the  terrible  forced  march  from  Harri 
son's  Landing  to  Newport  News.  The  Thirty-fourth  was 
transferred  from  that  point  by  water  to  Alexandria,  and 
was  at  once  advanced  to  the  front,  encamping  without 
tents  or  shelter,  amid  a  furious  storm  of  wind  and  rain. 
On  the  eventful  30th  of  August  it  was  efficiently  engaged 
in  covering  the  retreat  of  Pope's  army.  At  Antietam  the 
Thirty-fourth  entered  the  field  on  a  double  quick,  and  was 
moved  directly  to  the  front,  where  it  was  exposed  to  a 
wasting  fire  from  infantry,  in  front  and  on  both  flanks,  and 
by  artillery  on  its  left;  but  maintained  its  position,  al 
though  abandoned  by  a  supporting  regiment,  until  ordered 
to  fall  back  by  General  Sedgwick  personally,  who  received 
two  wounds  while  giving  the  command.  In  another 
period  of  the  action,  the  regiment  was  again  exposed  to  a 
destructive  cannonade.  During  this  bloody  day,  the 
Thirty-fourth  sustained  a  loss  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  men, 
amounting  to  one-half  of  the  effective  strength  with  which 
it  went  into  action.  Through  the  remainder  of  the  cam 
paign,  the  regiment  was  employed  in  constant  and  arduous 
services,  in  severe  marches,  reconnaissances  and  picketing. 
On  the  llth  December,  it  led  the  van  of  the  brigade,  at  that 
time  commanded  by  General  Sully  in  the  passage  of  the 
Rappahannock  at  Fredericksburg,  when  the  enemy  were 
driven  from  the  town.  The  regiment  lost  on  this  occasion 
more  than  thirty  men  from  the  fire  of  the  enemy's  batte 
ries.  After  this  action,  the  Thirty-fourth  remained  in 
camp  during  the  winter,  its  repose  being  frequently  inter 
rupted  by  picket  duty.  At  Chancellorville  and  Fredericks- 
burg  the  ensuing  spring  it  was  present,  but  only  slightly 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  241 

engaged.  On  the  expiration  of  its  enlistment  the  regi 
ment  was  mustered  out  at  Albany  on  the  30th  June,  1863. 
The  Thirty-fourth  had  participated  in  seventeen  battles 
and  numerous  skirmishes.  In  all  these  scenes,  Company 
H  had  sustained  a  conspicuous  and  honorable  attitude, 
and  worthily  received,  in  common  with  the  regiment,  the 
official  encomium  "  that  it  never  failed  in  duty  to  its 
country,  or  devotion  to  its  flag." 

The  Thirty-eighth  New  York  Volunteers. 

This  regiment,  under  Col.  J.  W.  Hobart  Ward,  was 
mustered  into  service  at  New  York,  in  June,  1861.  The 
company  enrolled  in  Essex  county,  of  which  Samuel  B. 
Dwyer  was  elected  captain,  William  H.  Smith  first  lieu 
tenant,  and  A.  C.  Hand  Livingston  second  lieutenant,  was 
incorporated  with  the  regiment  as  Company  K.  The 
Thirty-eighth  regiment  left  the  state  on  the  19th,  and  reached 
Washington  on  the  21st  of  June,  and  was  soon  after 
attached  to  Wilcox's  brigade,  and  Heintzel  man's  division. 
It  advanced  with  the  Union  army  to  Bull  Run,  on  the 
21st  of  July,  and  was  engaged  in  that  battle,  suffering 
a  loss  in  killed,  wounded,  and  missing  of  one  hundred  and 
twenty-eight  men.  It  was  distinguished  by  its  heroic 
bearing.  During  four  hours  it  was  in  close  action  and 
exposed  for  a  long  time  to  a  deadly  fire  of  artillery  both  in 
front  and  on  its  flanks.  Such  an  exposure  affords  the 
severest  test  to  the  constancy  and  courage  of  fresh  troops. 
The  regiment  bore  the  heat  and  dust  with  all  the  suffering 
of  the  early  part  of  the  engagement,  with  the  highest  sol 
dierly  resolution,  and  when  confronted  with  the  enemy,  it 
firmly  met  and  successfully  repulsed  the  attacks  of  his  in 
fantry.  When  compelled  by  the  disasters  of  the  day  to 
abandon  the  field,  the  Thirty-eighth  retreated  in  compara 
tive  order,  and  returned  to  the  encamping  ground  from 
which  it  had  marched  in  the  morning.  Company  K, 
in  this  action,  was  in  charge  of  Lieutenant  Smith  and 
Lieutenant  Livingston,  owing  to  the  absence  from  sickness 
of  Captain  Dwyer.  In  this  initial  battle  of  the  war,  Com- 
16 


242  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

pany  K  was  the  only  organization  from  Essex  county 
engaged,  and  although  none  were  killed  on  the  field,  it 
seems  proper  to  record  the  names  of  the  wounded  and 
captured.  Orlando  R.  Whiting,  captured  and  died  in 
prison  ;  James  A.  Coburn,  Henry  Van  Oman,  killed  at 
Chancellorville;  Patrick  Waters,  Pitt  A.  Wadhams,  killed 
at  Fredericksburg ;  Loyal  E.  Wolcott,  John  M.  Gladden, 
George  Boutwell,  James  McCormick,  died  in  prison ;  and 
Wesley  Sumner,  killed  at  Fredericksburg.  Lieutenant 
Smith  resigned  August  2d,  1861,  Lieutenant  Livingston, 
four  days  afterwards.  The  officers  who  subsequently  served 
in  this  company,  were  Fergus  Walker,  second  lieutenant 
August,  1861,  promoted  first  lieutenant  May  1862, promoted 
captain  August,  1862 ;  and  William  Warren  second  lieu 
tenant  May,  1862,  promoted  first  lieutenant  December,  1862. 
Until  the  opening  of  the  peninsula  campaign  the  Thirty- 
eighth  was  employed  in  picket  duty  and  the  construction 
of  field  works  for  the  defense  of  Washington.  In  August, 
the  regiment  was  assigned  to  Gen.  Howard's  brigade. 
This  brigade, known  as  the  third  brigade,  was  successively 
commanded  by  Generals  Sedgwick  and  Birney.  Upon 
the  organization  of  the  army  of  the  Potomac,  the  division 
to  which  this  brigade  was  attached  constituted  the  first 
division  of  the  third  corps,  and  these  various  designations 
were  retained  during  the  subsequent  service  of  the  regi 
ment. 

The  Thirty-eighth  was  at  the  siege  of  Yorktown  and 
sustained  in  the  operations  before  the  works  some  slight 
casualties.  Its  bearing  at  the  battle  of  Williamsburgh 
was  highly  conspicuous,  and  it  encountered  there  a  loss  of 
eighty-six  men.  In  this  engagement,  the  gallant  Captain 
Dwyer,  of  Company  K,  fell  mortally  wounded,  and  died 
a  few  days  afterwards  at  St.  Johns  Hospital  in  Phila 
delphia.  His  body,  claimed  by  the  popular  enthusiasm, 
was  borne  to  the  village  of  Elizabethtown,  in  his  native 
county,  of  which  he  was  a  prominent  citizen,  and  there 
buried  with  the  imposing  and  touching  obsequies  due  to 
his  patriotic  devotion. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  243 

The  regiment  was  engaged  in  all  the  battles  that  imme 
diately  followed  on  the  peninsula.  It  also  fought  at  second 
Bull  Run,  Chantilly,  Fredericksburg  and  Chancellorville. 
On  the  21st  December,  1862,  the  remnants  of  the  ten  com 
panies  of  the  Thirty-eighth  regiment  was  consolidated  into 
six  companies,  and  marked  from  A  to  F  inclusive,  while  the 
Fifty-fifth  New  York  Volunteers  was  also  consolidated  into 
four  companies,  enumerated  from  G  to  K,  and  annexed  to 
the  Thirty-eighth  regiment.  A  large  proportion  of  the  regi 
ment  reenlisted,  embracing  a  considerable  part  of  Company 
K,  and  when  it  was  mustered  out  on  the  expiration  of  the 
terra  of  service  June  22d,  1863,  these  men  were  transferred 
to  the  Fortieth  New  York  Volunteers.  This  regiment,  both 
before  and  after  the  consolidation,  was  ranked  among  the 
most  distinguished  regiments  of  the  state  volunteers.  In 
noticing  the  departure  from  the  field  of  the  Thirty-eighth 
regiment,  the  commander  of  the  third  corps  in  a  special 
order  paid  the  highest  tribute  to  its  service  and  reputation. 

The  Forty-fourth  Regiment  New  York  Volunteers. 
A.  happy  inspiration  suggested  the  idea  of  forming  a 
regiment  to  be  composed  of  chosen  men  to  be  selected 
from  the  various  towns  and  wards  of  the  state,  and  organ 
ized  and  known  as  The  Ellsworth  Avengers.  The 
design  proposed  at  once  to  appropriately  commemorate 
the  name  of  the  young  hero,  who  was  the  earliest  martyr 
to  the  Union  cause,  and  to  animate  a  just  and  patriotic  mili 
tary  spirit  throughout  the  state.  Essex  county  promptly 
responded  to  the  invitation,  and  most  of  the  towns  sent 
their  representatives  to  the  regiment.  It  was  mustered 
into  the  service  on  the  24th  September,  1861,  as  the  Forty- 
fourth  New  York  Volunteers.  The  services  of  the  Forty- 
fourth  were  active  and  conspicuous  in  the  varied  operations 
of  the  army  of  the  Potomac,  and  it  is  believed  that  its 
name  and  associations  rendered  it  to  the  rebels  an  object 
of  peculiar  hostility  and  vindictive  assault.  The  gallantry 
of  the  Forty-fourth  was  eminently  conspicuous  at  Hanover 
C.  H.,  where  four  times  its  flag  was  cut  down  by  balls, 


244  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

and  as  often  triumphantly  raised.  When  the  color-hearer 
fell,  the  standard  was  promptly  raised  hy  another  hand. 
In  the  midst  of  the  fierce  and  terrible  conflict,  which  the 
Forty-fourth  in  connection  with  the  Second  Maine :  "  How 
many  men,"  was  demanded  of  a  captain  of  the  former, 
"will  follow  me  to  the  charge."  "Every  man,"  was  the 
Spartan  reply,  "  save  the  dead."  Such  was  the  character 
and  spirit  of  this  regiment.  The  staff  of  the  torn  and 
faded  flag,  deposited  in  the  military  bureau,  had  about 
eighteen  inches  with  the  eagle  and  top  shot  away  at  Spott- 
sylvania.  When  the  Forty-fourth  was  mustered  out  of 
service,  October  llth,  1864,  the  veterans  and  recruits  were 
transferred  to  the  One  Hundred  and  Fortieth  and  One  Hun 
dred  and  Forty-sixth  regiments,  New  York  Volunteers. 

The  Seventy-seventh  Regiment  New  York  Volunteers. 
This  regiment  was  mustered  into  service  November 
23d,  1861,  for  three  years  at  Bemis's  Heights,  Saratoga, 
and  by  the  suggestions  of  the  spot  appropriately  num 
bered  seventy-seventh.  At  this  organization,  James  B.  Mc 
Lean  was  elected  colonel,  Joseph  A.  Henderson,  lieut.  colo 
nel,  and  Selden  Hetzel,  major.  Two  companies  attached 
to  the  seventy-seventh,  designated  A  and  I,  were  principally 
enrolled  in  Essex  county.  Company  A  was  recruited  in 
the  towns  of  Westport,  Jay,  and  Keene.  It  was  inspected 
on  the  15th  of  September,  and  two  days  later  proceeded 
to  Saratoga.  The  company  was  organized  by  the  election 
ofEenelW.  Arnold  captain,  William  Douglass  first  and 
James  H.  Farnsworth  second  lieutenant,  It  originally 
mustered  ninety-five  men  and  received  fifty  recruits,  chiefly 
nonresidents  of  Essex  county,  during  its  service.  Lt. 
Farnsworth  resigned  January  5th,  1862,  and  Charles  E. 
Stevens  was  promoted  to  second  lieutenant.  Captain 
Arnold  resigned  April  3d,  1862,  and  was  succeeded  by 
1st  Lt.  George  S.  Orr  of  Company  G.  In  December  fol 
lowing,  Lt.  Stephens  was  appointed  first  lieutenant  and 
Orderly  Sergeant  William  Lyon  was  promoted  to  his  post. 
Captain  Orr  of  Company  G  was  wounded  at  Cedar  creek 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  245 

and  mustered  out  with  the  regiment  at  the  expiration  of 
its  term.  Lt.  Stevens  was  promoted  to  the  captaincy 
of  consolidated  Company  E,  October  15th,  1864.  Lt.  Lyon 
was  killed  at  Spottsylvania  May  10th,  1864.  Charles 
H.  Davis  was  promoted  second  lieutenant  October  16th, 
1864,  and  appointed  first  lieutenant  Company  E,  November 
15th,  1864,  and  captain,  April  25th,  1865.  Company  I  was 
recruited  in  the  northern  towns  of  Essex  and  the  adjacent 
towns  in  Clinton  county.  Mr.  Wendell  Lansing  was 
largely  instrumental  in  the  enrollment  of  this  company,  but 
on  its  organization  was  transferred  to  the  commissary 
department,  in  which  he  served  about  one  year.  The  com 
pany  officers  on  its  organization  were  Franklin  Norton  cap 
tain,  Jacob  F.  Hay  ward  and  Martin  Lennon  first  and  second 
lieutenants.  Capt.  Norton  was  promoted  August  18th, 

1862,  to  lieut.  colonel  of  the  One  Hundred  and  Twenty-third 
New  York  Volunteers,  and  died  on  the  12th  of  May,  1863, 
of  wounds  received  in  the  battle  of  Chancellorville,  on  the 
10th  December,  1862.     Lt.  Lennon  was  appointed  captain 
of  Company  I,  and  January  3d,  1863,  Lt.  Hay  ward  was  pro 
moted  to  quarter  master  and  remained  in  that  capacity 
until  the  term  of  enlistment  expired.     John  W.  Belding 
was  made  first  lieutenant,  March  17,  1863,  was  promoted 
to  the  captaincy  of  Company  K,  but  never  mustered  in  as 
such,  and  died  October  27th,  1864,  from  wounds  received  in 
action.     On  May  19th,  1863,  Orderly  Sergeant  Carlos  W. 
Rowe  was  appointed  second  lieutenant.     Lt.  Rowe  entered 
the  service  as  corporal  in  Company  I.     At  the  organization 
of  Co.  I,  William  E.  Merrill  was  corporal.     He  was  made  a 
sergeant  July  following,   and  orderly  sergeant  February, 

1863.  He   reenlisted   in   February,   1864,   was   severely 
wounded  at   Spottsylvania,    was   made  second  lieutenant 
September  19th,  1864,  and  promoted  to  first   lieutenant 
April  22d,  1865,  and  was  mustered  out  with  the  regiment, 
at  the  close  of  the  war. 

Immediately  after  being  organized,  the  Seventy-seventh 
started  for  the  field  of  active  service,  and  reaching  Wash 
ington  in  December,  1861,  went  into  camp  on  Meridian 


246  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

hill.  The  regiment  was  incorporated  with  the  army  of 
the  Potomac  on  its  first  organization,  and  continued  con 
nected  with  it  until  its  disbandment;  it  participated  in  all 
the  fortunes  of  that  army,  from  the  commencement  of 
McClellan's  campaign  to  the  close  of  the  war.  Its  earliest 
experience  of  battle  was  in  the  charge  upon  the  enemy's 
works,  at  Mechanicsville,  in  which  a  youth  from  Keese- 
ville,  Clifford  Weston,  a  private  in  Company  I,  was  killed, 
the  first  offering  of  the  regiment  to  the  country  to  be 
succeeded  by  a  long  and  heroic  line  of  sacrifices.  The 
Seventy-seventh  was  conspicuous  throughout  these  services, 
and  no  part  of  it  was  more  distinguished  than  the  two 
companies  from  Essex  county.  The  regiment  belonged 
to  the  immortal  sixth  corps,  and  its  torn  and  fragmentary 
flags  and  guidons,  and  their  shattered  staffs  deposited 
among  the  archives  of  the  state,  prove  its  worthiness  of 
the  association. 

I  do  not  possess  the  materials  from  which  to  form  a 
narrative  of  the  specific  services  of  the  Seventy-seventh, 
nor  indeed  could  its  movements  be  properly  separated 
from  the  general  operations  of  the  army.  That  its  services 
were  severe  is  attested  by  the  records  of  thirty  distinct 
battles,  and  that  they  were  gallantly  performed  is  evident 
from  the  bloody  decimation  of  its  ranks.  One  or  two 
instances  will  illustrate  the  character  and  endurance  of 
the  regiment.  In  the  battle  of  White  Oak  swamp,  the 
division  to  which  the  Seventy-seventh  was  attached,  was 
suddenly  assailed  by  a  superior  force  of  the  rebels.  The 
regiment  was  stationed  some  distance  from  its  brigade,  and 
could  not  be  approached  owing  to  the  severity  of  the 
enemy's  fire.  Although  not  directly  exposed  to  this  fire, 
it  was  in  imminent  danger,  from  its  position,  of  being  cut 
off.  "  Not  proposing  to  move  without  orders,"  as  one  of 
its  gallant  members  writes,  the  regiment  maintained  its 
post.  A  slight  suspension  of  the  action  enabled  an  aid 
to  reach  it,  with  orders  to  change  its  ground.  This  order 
was  promptly  executed,  but  only  in  time  to  save  the  regi 
ment  from  capture. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  247 

At  the  battle  of  Spottsylvania,  May  10th,  1864,  the  Seventy- 
seventh  was  selected  with  several  other  regiments  to  form  an 
assaulting  column,  to  charge  the  enemy's  lines.  The  attack 
continued  scarcely  more  than  fifteen  minutes,  but  was  of  the 
fiercest  and  bloodiest  character.  The  position  assailed  was 
extremely  formidable,  and  the  attacking  column  was  not 
sufficiently  strong  to  maintain  it.  They  were  compelled  to 
fall  back  and  abandon  the  position  with  their  dead  and 
severely  wounded  to  the  mercy  of  the  enemy.  Twenty 
members  of  the  Seventy-seventh  were  left  upon  this  field. 
In  the  terrible  conflict  at  Spottsylvania,  the  regiment  lost 
seventy-four  men,  about  one-fourth  of  its  strength  engaged. 
Lt.  Lyon  of  Company  A  was  killed  in  the  charge,  and  Lt. 
Rowe  of  Company  I  was  taken  prisoner. 

The  regiment  participated  in  the  eventful  scenes  on  the 
peninsula.  At  Mechanicsville  it  captured  a  guidon  be 
longing  to  a  Georgia  regiment ;  it  was  at  Gaines's  Mills, 
Savage's  Station,  and  in  all  the  operations  before  Eichmond, 
which  terminated  at  Malvern  Hill.  Transferred  from 
that  field  it  was  engaged  at  second  Bull  Run,  Crompton 
Pass  and  Antietam,  closing  the  services  of  that  year  at 

1  Lt.  Rowe  made  his  escape.  The  story  in  its  detail  is  full  of  interest  from 
its  romantic  incidents  and  the  adroitness  and  courage  by  which  success  was 
secured.  The  fifth  day  after  his  capture,  he  began  a  march  with  about 
twelve  hundred  prisoners,  in  the  direction  of  southern  prison  houses.  On 
the  second  day  of  the  march,  they  were  compelled  to  ford  a  stream,  which 
was  waist  deep.  In  effecting  the  passage  the  line  became  scattered.  The 
guard  was  comparatively  small,  and  in  the  confusion,  Rowe  was  able  soon 
after  crossing  to  plunge  into  a  thicket  and  secrete  himself  behind  a  heavy 
cluster  of  bushes.  He  was  concealed  in  this  covert  until  the  whole  detach 
ment  had  past.  He  had  procured  a  map  from  a  fellow  prisoner,  and  aided 
by  this  and  a  pocket  compass,  he  deliberately  marked  out  the  route  he  should 
pursue  to  regain  the  Union  lines.  Pursuing  for  a  while  nearly  the  course  of 
the  party  from  which  he  had  escaped,  he  at  length  diverged  and  crossing  the 
Richmond  and  Gordonsville  rail  road  and  then  the  Gordonville  and  Lynch- 
burg,  proceeded  by  a  long  circuitous  route.  He  traveled  in  seven  days  and 
principally  in  the  night,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  and  suc 
ceeded  on  the  thirteenth  day  after  his  capture  in  joining  the  Union  forces  at 
Fredericksburg.  In  his  perilous  journey  he  encountered  innumerable  hair 
breadth  escapes,  endured  extreme  suffering,  and  had  no  other  subsistence 
than  he  secured  from  his  own  efforts  and  the  kindness  and  charity  of  the 
negro  people. 


248  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Fredericksburg  on  December  13th.  In  January,  1863,  it 
encountered  the  horrors  of  the  "mud  campaign."  At 
Marye's  Height,  on  the  3d  of  May,  it  captured  the  flag  of  the 
Eighteenth  Mississippi:  it  fought  atFredericksburg,  Gettys 
burg,  Rappahannock  station  and  Robinson's  tavern.  In 
the  campaign  of  1864,  it  was  at  the  Wilderness,  Spottsyl- 
vania,  Coal  Harbor  and  Fort  Stevens.  Transferred  to  the 
Shenandoah  valley,  it  was  engaged  in  the  battle  of  the 
19th  September  in  which  Captain  Lennon,  of  Company  I, 
and  Lieutenant  Belding  were  mortally  wounded,  and  died, 
the  former  on  the  succeeding  1st  November,  and  the  latter 
the  29th  October.  It  was  at  Fisher  Hill  September  22d, 
and  at  Cedar  Creek  on  the  19th  of  October,  gallantly  aiding 
in  the  achievement  of  that  crowning  victory.  In  this  en 
gagement  Captain  Orr  of  Company  A  was  severely  wounded. 

In  November,  1864,  at  the  expiration  of  its  term  of  enlist 
ment,  the  regiment  was  mustered  out  of  service ;  but  it 
left  in  the  field  a  battalion  composed  of  veterans  who 
reenlisted,  formed  from  the  original  organization  and  new 
recruits.  This  was  designated  the  77th  Battalion  New 
York  State  Volunteers.  The  relics  of  Companies  A  and 
I  were  consolidated  into  a  new  company  designated  C, 
and  attached  to  the  battalion.  This  company  embraced 
eighty-five  men  and  was  formed  of  nearly  equal  proportions 
of  the  original  companies.  The  officers  of  Company  C 
consisted  of  Charles  E.  Stevens  captain,  appointed  major 
but  not  mustered  in  as  such;  1st  lieutenant  Charles  A. 
Davis,  and  2d  lieutenant  William  E.  Merrill.  The  battalion 
was  engaged  in  the  final  siege  of  Petersburg  and  in  the 
assault  of  the  2d  April  its  flags  and  guidons  were  the  first 
colors  on  the  enemy's  works.1  It  was  mustered  out,  in 
June  27th,  1865.  The  regiment  had  fourteen  hundred 
and  sixty-three  on  its  rolls,  of  whom  seventy -three  were 
killed  in  battle,  forty  died  of  their  wounds  and  one  hun 
dred  and  forty-eight  of  disease. 

The  different  banners  of  this  regiment  in  their  torn  and 
shattered  condition,  which  are  deposited  in  the  Bureau  of 

1  Flag  Presentations. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  249 

Military  Records  at  Albany,  are  invested  with  deep  and 
peculiar  interest.  In  the  charge  up  Marye's  Height,  one 
of  the  color  guards  of  the  regimental  flag  was  killed,  and 
the  banner  torn  into  shreds  by  a  shell.  A  national  flag 
borne  in  many  fields,  is  half  gone,  its  ends  ragged,  its  field 
in  ribbons.  The  top  of  its  staff  was  shot  off"  at  the  battle  of 
the  Wilderness.  In  the  battle  of  Chancellorville  its  field  was 
torn  by  an  enemy's  shell.  Among  its  bearers  in  battle, 
Corporal  Joseph  Murray  was  killed  at  Antietam,  Michael 
McWilliams  in  the  Wilderness.  Corporal  Horicon  of  the 
color  guard  was  killed  at  Cedar  Creek,  and  Corporal 
Myers  shot  through  the  hand  in  the  Wilderness.  Its  in 
scription  was  placed  upon  the  flag  by  the  order  of  General 
Sheridan. 

Officers  of  Seventy -seventh  mustered  out  on   expiration  of  original 
term  of  enlistment,  Dec.  loth,  1864. 

Lt.  Col.  Winsor  B.  French.  Joseph  H.  Loveland. 

Major  Nathan  S.  Babcock.  1st  Lt.  Alonzo  Rowland. 
Q.  M.  Jacob  F.  Hayward,  <:       Henry  C.  Rowland. 

Surgeon  George  T.  Stevens.  "       Lewis  T.  Yanderwarker. 

Asst.  Surg.  Justin  T.  Thompson.         "       William  W.  Worden. 

"        "      Wm.  A.  Delong.  2d  Lt.  David  Lyon. 
Chaplain  Norman  Fox,  Jr.  "       Carlos  W.  Howe. 

Captain  George  S.  Orr.  "       George  W.  Gillis. 

Officers  mustered  out  on   discharge   of  Battalion,    Seventy -seventh 
New  York  Volunteers. 

David  J.  Caw, brevet  Col.  U.  S.  V.  Capt.  George  M.  Ross. 

Q  M.  Charles  D.  Thurber,  brevet  1st  Lt.  William  E.  Merrill. 

Capt.  U.  S.  V.  "        Thomas  S.  Harris. 

Surgeon  John  G.  Thompson.  u        Adam  Flansburgh. 

Capt.    Isaac    D.    Clapp,     brevet         ''        Robert  E.  Nelson. 

Major  U.  S.  V.  "        James  A.  Monroe. 

Capt.  David  A.  Thompson.  2d  Lt.  Sorrell  Fountain. 

"      Charles    E.    Stevens,    ap-         "       William  Carr. 

pointed  major  but  not  mustered         "       William  H.  Quackenbush. 

in  as  such.1  t£       Thomas  M.  White. 


1 1  am  under  peculiar  obligations  for  the  facts  I  have  embodied  in  the 
account  of  the  Seventy-seventh  to  Major  Stevens,  Lt.  Rowe,  and  Mr.  W. 
Lansing.  My  researches,  not  only  in  respect  to  this,  but  every  other 


250  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Brevet  Commission  issued  by  Governor  to  Enlisted  Men. 
Hospital  Steward  Alexander  P.  Waldron,  2d  Lieutenant. 

The  Ninety-sixth  New  York  Volunteers. 

This  regiment  was  wholly  enrolled  in  the  northern  section 
of  NewYork.  Only  a  single  company,  as  appears  from  the 
documents  which  I  have  been  able  to  collect,  originally  or 
ganized,  belonging  to  the  Ninety-sixth,  was  enrolled  in  Essex 
county,  although  large  portions  of  other  companies  were 
recruited  in  the  county,  and  towards  the  close  of  the  war, 
numerous  drafts  from  the  county  joined  this  regiment. 
Essex  was  therefore  largely  represented  in  the  organiza 
tion.  Captain  Alfred  Weed  enlisted  principally  in  Ticon- 
deroga,  a  company  which  he  commanded,  and  of  which 
Thomas  W.-  Newman  was  second  lieutenant.  This  com 
pany  was  attached  to  the  Ninety-sixth  as  Company  G, 
George  W.  Hinds,  of  Au  Sable,  was  captain,  February  18, 
1862,  and  promoted  to  major,  March,  1865.  Earl  Pierce 
of  Jay,  originally  attached  to  Company  K,  of  the  One 
Hundred  and  Eighteenth,  was  appointed  first  lieutenant  of 
the  Ninety-sixth,  January  27,  1864,  and  promoted  to 
captaincy,  January  20, 1865.  The  regiment  was  organized 
at  Plattsburg,  and  departed  for  the  field,  March,  1862, 
under  the  command  of  James  Fairman,  Colonel  Charles 
O.  Grey,  lieutenant-colonel,  and  John  E.  Kelley,  a  veteran 
of  the  regular  army,  major.  Nathan  Wardnerof  Jay  was 
appointed  chaplain  of  the  organization,  John  H.  Sanborn, 
quarter-master,  and  Francis  Joseph  D'  Avignon,  of  Au  Sable 
Forks,  surgeon.  The  Ninety-sixth,  in  the  early  stages  of 
its  services,  was  severely  depressed,  through  the  unfavor 
able  auspices  by  which  it  was  surrounded,  but  after  the 
brave  and  accomplished  Grey  was  placed  in  command,  the 
regiment  rapidly  attained  a  very  high  reputation.  It  had 
been  precipitated  by  ill-advised  councils  into  active  ser- 

military  organization  of  the  state,  have  been  enlightened  by  the  invaluable 
report  of  Adjutant  General  Marvin,  1868.  For  a  copy  of  the  work,  I  am 
indebted  to  the  courtesy  of  Hon.  Smith  M.  Weed. 


Vol 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  251 

vice,  without  the  advantages  of  any  adequate  drilling,  and 
was  hurried  into  the  peninsula  campaign  before  the  habits 
of  the  troops  were  adapted  to  field  duty,  and  while  they 
were  yet  un acclimated.  Company  G  marched  from  Fort 
ress  Monroe,  comprising  more  than  seventy  combatants, 
and  when  it  entered  the  conflict  at  Fair  Oaks,  it  retained 
only  eighteen  men  fit  for  duty.  The  remainder  had  been 
stricken  down  by  diseases  incident  to  hard  service  and  a 
malarious  climate.  This  fact  illustrates  the  general  con 
dition  of  the  regiment,  the  efficiency  of  which  was  also 
deeply  impaired  for  a  season,  by  dissensions  among  its 
officers.  A  number  of  the  subordinates  had  resigned 
from  this  and  other  causes.  Captain  Weed,  immediately 
previous  to  Fair  Oaks,  was  compelled  by  severe  sickness, 
to  relinquish  his  command,  and  Lieutenant  Newman, 
who  was  discharged  in  May,  1862,  had  already  left  the 
regiment.1 

The  company  for  a  time  was  in  charge  of  Orderly  Ser 
geant  Patrick  English,  and  was  ultimately  consolidated 
with  Company  C  of  Clinton  county. 

Major  Kelly  was  killed  in  a  picket  skirmish,  immediately 
before  the  battle  of  Fair  Oaks.  In  that  action  the  losses 
of  the  Ninety-sixth  regiment  were  extremely  severe.  The 
services  of  the  regiment,  throughout  the  peninsula  cam 
paign,  were  marked  by  great  perils  and  hardships,  and  eli 
cited  from  General  Peck,  the  commander  of  the  division, 
warm  and  unusual  encomiums.  It  was  afterwards  ordered 
to  Suffolk,  enduring  all  the  trials  and  sufferings  of  that 
field,  and  was  subsequently  engaged  in  the  North  Carolina 
expedition,  and  gallantly  participated  in  all  the  hard  ser 
vices  of  that  vigorous  campaign.  In  the  battle  of  Kingston, 
December  14th,  1862,  Colonel  Grey,  who  had  already, 
although  a  youth  of  twenty-four,  achieved  a  brilliant  fame, 
was  killed  while  charging  at  the  head  of  the  regiment  over 

1  Lieutenant  Newman  afterwards  joined  a  Maryland  regiment,  and  re 
mained  in  the  service  during  the  war.  Captain  Weed,  after  his  health  was 
restored,  enlisted  as  a  private  in  the  Ninety-third  New  York  Volunteers, 
and  did  not  return  to  civil  life  until  the  spring  of  1865. 


252  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

the  bridge  on  the  Neuse,  and  in  the  act  of  planting  its 
standard  upon  the  enemy's  works.  Three  weeks  before, 
in  presenting  a  new  flag  to  the  Ninety-sixth,  he  had  uttered 
a  glowing  and  eloquent  tribute  to  its  old  flag,  and  now  this 
enveloped  his  coffin,  as  his  remains  were  borne  from  his  last 
battle-field  to  its  resting  place  among  his  familiar  mountains. 
That  venerated  flag  is  deposited  in  the  military  bureau. 
After  this  event  the  Ninety-sixth  regiment  was  for  a  short 
term  under  the  command  of  Colonel  McKenzie. 

Early  in  1864,  the  regiment  was  transferred  to  the  army 
of  the  James  before  Petersburg,  and  attached  to  the  same 
brigade  with  which  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  was 
connected.  It  was  incorporated  with  the  eighteenth  and 
afterwards  with  the  twenty-fourth  corps.  The  Ninety-sixth 
was  engaged  in  all  the  subsequent  operations  of  the  eigh 
teenth  corps.  At  Coal  Harbor,  and  the  assault  on  Fort 
Harrison  its  casualties  were  appalling.  In  the  attack  upon 
Fort  Harrison,  the  Ninety-sixth  and  the  Eighth  Connecti 
cut  formed  the  assaulting  columns,  with  the  One  Hundred 
and  Eighteenth  New  York,  and  Tenth  New  Hampshire  on 
their  flanks  as  skirmishers.  The  division  approached  the 
works  in  close  order,  and  in  a  distance  of  fourteen  hundred 
yards  was  exposed  to  a  plunging  and  galling  fire  of  artil 
lery  and  musketry.1 

It  steadily  advanced  to  the  base  of  the  hill,  which  was 
crowned  by  the  enemy's  work.  Here  the  column, 
exhausted  by  its  rapid  progress,  paused.  The  enemy  per 
ceiving  the  point  of  attack  were  meanwhile  pouring  reen- 
forcements  into  the  menaced  works.  The  crisis  was 
imminent,  and  General  Stannard  commanding  the  division 
sent  an  earnest  order  for  an  instant  assault.2  The  head  of 
the  column  charged  up  the  hill,  and  scaling  the  parapet, 

4  Gen.  Stannard's  Report. 

"*  General  Stannard  claims  that  this  order  was  carried  by  Captain  Kent 
Iris  aid.  Other  authorities  state  that  it  was  communicated  from  General 
Burnham  by  Lieutenant  Campbell,  of  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth, 
who  was  on  his  staff.  Perhaps  the  orders  were  .coincident. —  Butler's  Ad 
dress  to  the  Army  of  tJie  James. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  253 

drove  the  enemy  from  their  guns.  Sergeant  Lester  Archer 
of  the  Ninety-sixth  and  the  color  bearer  of  the  Eighth  Con 
necticut,  simultaneously  planted  their  respective  regimental 
flags  upon  the  ramparts.  The  Rev.  Nathan  Wardner, 
chaplain  of  the  Ninety-sixth,  charged  with  his  regiment  in 
the  advancing  columns,  prepared  to  administer  spiritual 
consolation  on  the  very  field  of  carnage.1  The  captured 
guns  of  the  fort  were  turned  upon  the  retreating  enemy 
with  terrible  effect.  The  Ninety-sixth  was  conspicuous  in 
opposing  the  repeated,  resolute  and  desperate  attempts  of 
the  rebels  to  recover  this  important  position.2  The  death 
or  wounds  of  four  superiors,  placed  Colonel  Cullen  of  the 
Ninety-sixth,  at  the  close  of  this  sanguinary  battle,  in  com 
mand  of  the  division. 

The  Ninety-sixth  continued  near  Fort  Harrison  in  camp 
with  its  brigade,  after  the  capture  of  that  work,  until  the 
24th  of  October,  when  the  entire  division,  marched  against 
Fort  Richmond,  at  Fair  Oaks.  It  bivouacked  that  night, 
about  three  miles  from  the  fort.  While  the  skirmishing 
party  of  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  was  engaged  in 
the  perilous  and  hopeless  assault  of  the  enemy's  line,  the 
next  morning  the  Ninety-sixth,  in  common  with  the  remain 
der  of  the  division,  stood  idle  spectators  of  the  slaughter 
of  those  troops,  although  little  doubt  now  exists,  that  a 
combined  and  energetic  attack  of  the  fort,  when  the  One 
Hundred  and  Eighteenth  advanced  and  while  it  was  occu 
pied  by  a  force  wholly  inadequate  to  its  defense,  would 
have  secured  a  glorious  success.  A  designed  feint  had 
been  converted  into  a  real  and  sanguinary  assault,  and  the 
character  of  this  bloody  field,  conspicuous  for  its  profitless 
and  murderous  losses,  was  only  redeemed  by  the  valor  of 
the  troops. 

For  two  long  and  trying  hours,  after  the  repulse  of  the 
One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth,  the  residue  of  the  division 


1  Butler's  Address. 

2  I  more  particularly  describe  these  events  in  noticing  the  services  of  the 
One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  on  the  occasion. 


254  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

stood  under  arms,  in  front  of  the  enemy's  lines,  with  no 
orders,  either  to  advance  or  retreat,  while  the  rebels  were 
observed,  eagerly  rushing  troops  into  the  fort,  on  foot  and 
upon  horseback.  Horses  were  constantly  perceived  hurry 
ing  up  at  their  highest  speed,  bearing  three  riders,  and  as 
they  approached  the  works,  two  leaping  from  the  horse 
would  enter  the  fort,  while  the  third  returned  at  the  same 
speed,  to  bear  back  another  freight  of  defenders.  At 
length,  when  the  lines  by  this  delay  had  been  rendered 
impregnable  to  an  attack,  the  division  was  madly  hurled 
upon  the  works.  It  was  bloodily  repulsed.  The  casual 
ties  of  the  Ninety-sixth  were  in  the  highest  degree  severe. 
Its  last  colonel,  Stephen  Moffit,  of  Clinton  county,  who 
continued  in  the  command  until  the  regiment  was  dis 
banded,  lost  a  leg  in  this  action,  while  gallantly  leading 
in  the  fruitless  and  disastrous  assault.  He  was  borne  from 
the  field  by  Captain  Earle  Pierce  of  the  Ninety-sixth,  and 
Capt.  M.  Y.  B.  Stetson,  of  the  One  Hundred  and  Eigh 
teenth,  the  latter  of  whom  was  wounded  in  the  generous  act. 
The  ground  upon  which  these  unfortunate  operations 
occurred,  had  been  signalized  by  the  sanguinary  battle  of 
Fair  Oaks,  during  the  peninsula  campaign.  The  works 
erected  by  McClellan  were  still  discernible,  and  as  the 
federal  troops  moved  to  the  assault,  they  disturbed  and 
trampled  upon  skulls  and  bones  and  other  ghastly  memo 
rials  of  the  former  conflict.  The  Ninety-sixth  participated 
in  the  brilliant  closing  scenes  of  the  war  around  Richmond 
and  its  final  consummation. 

I  should  not  close  this  notice,  which  I  regret  is  so  inade 
quate,  of  this  gallant  regiment l  without  referring  to  the 
memory  of  one  of  its   members,  who   was  alike    distin 
guished  for  the  ability  and  zeal  with  which  he  performed 
his  official  duties,  and   his  warm   hearted  and   generous 
sensibilities.     Francis   Joseph  D'Avignon  was  placed  at 
the  head  of  the  medical  corps  of  the  Ninety-sixth  at  its 

I 1  have  made  every  effort  to  obtain  information,  but  generally  with  very 
unsatisfactory  results. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  255 

organization.  His  skill  and  courage  early  attracted  atten 
tion,  and  led  to  his  promotion.  He  was  made  surgeon-in- 
chief  to  a  division,  was  captured  at  Drury's  Bluff  and 
remained  a  prisoner  for  several  months.  He  was  confined 
for  a  short  term  in  Libby  Prison  and  encountered  its 
rigors,  but  was  soon  released  from  confinement  and  al 
lowed  with  slight  restraints  to  mingle  freely  with  the 
Union  prisoners,  and  minister  to  them  his  professional 
services.  He  was  mustered  out  on  the  expiration  of  his 
term  of  service,  March  14th,  1865.  Surgeon  D' Avignon 
had  been  a  Canadian  patriot,  and  was  involved  in  the 
perils  of  1837.  He  fled  into  the  states  from  the  scaffold, 
and  yielding  to  his  republican  instincts  became  an  Ame 
rican  citizen.  He  married  and  permanently  resided  at 
Au  Sable  Forks.1 

Officers  of  the  Ninety-sixth  mustered  out  with  the  Regiment,  Feb 
ruary  6th,  1866. 

Col.  Stephen  Moffitt,  brevet  Brig.  Thomas  E.  Allen. 

Gen.  U.  S.  V.  Oscar  B.  Colvin. 

Lt.  Col.  George  W,  Hinds,  brevet  1st  Lt.  William  B.  Stafford. 

Col.  N.  Y.  V.  "       Thomas  Burke. 

Major    Courtland    C.    Babcock,  "       Charles  H.  Hogan. 

brevet  Lt.  Col.  N.  Y.  V.  «       Orlando  P  Benson. 

Q.  M.  Allen  Babcock.  "       Lyman  Bridges. 

Surgeon  Robert  W.  Brady.  "       George  J.  Cady. 

Chaplain  Nathan  Wardner.  "       Lucien  Wood. 

Capt.  Earl  Peirce.  "       Alexander  M.  Stevens. 

Moses  Gill.  "       Alonzo  E.  Howard. 

Moses  E.  Orr.  2d  Lt.  Washington  Harris. 

Henry  C.  Buckham,  brevet  Maj.  "       Stanford  H.  Bugbee. 

N.  Y.  Y.  "       Alexander  McMartin. 

William  B.  Brokaw,  brevet  Ma-  "       Charles  Sharron. 

jor  N.  Y.  V.  "       Amos  S.  Richardson. 

Merlin  C.  Harris,  brevet  Major  "       Silas  Finch. 

N.  Y.  V.  "       Judson  C.  Ware. 

1 A  brother  officer  in  the  regiment,  himself  as  well  as  Surgeon  D' Avignon, 
since  deceased,  remarks  of  the  latter :  "  He  stood  very  high  in  the  army,  and 
was  beloved  by  both  officers  and  privates." 


256  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Enlisted  Men  of  the  Regiment  to  whom  Medals  of  Honor  have  been 
Awarded  by  the  Secretary  of  War. 

Sergeant  Lester  Archer. 

The  archives  of  the  state  present  the  following  brilliant 
record  of  the  services  of  the  Ninety-sixth :  Gainesville, 
second  Bull  Run,  South  Mountain,  Antietam,  Mine  Run, 
Fredericksburg,  Chancellorville,  Gettysburg,  Wilder 
ness,  North  Anna,  Mattapony,  Spottsylvania,  Bethesda 
Church,  Petersburg,  Wei  don  Rail  Road,  Chapel  House, 
Hatcher's  Run,  Yorktown,  Williamsburg,  Fair  Oaks, 
Seven  Days'  Battle,  Blackwater,  Kingston,  Whitehall, 
Goldsboro',  Siege  of  Newbern,  Drury's  Farm,  Port 
Walthall,  Coal  Harbor,  Battery  Harrison,  Charles  City 
Road. 

Fifth  New  York  Cavalry. 

At  the  opening  of  the  war  of  the  rebellion,  the  govern 
ment  suffered  severely  from  the  absence  of  an  efficient 
cavalry  arm.  In  this  force,  the  rebels  were  far  superior, 
both  in  numbers  and  efficiency.  A  wide  defection  among 
the  cavalry  officers  of  the  army,  in  one  instance,  embracing 
almost  an  entire  regiment,  and  the  peculiar  equestrian 
habits  of  the  southern  people,  which  rendered  most  men 
expert  riders  from  early  youth,  combined  to  furnish  mate 
rials  for  an  immediate  and  powerful  organization  of  mounted 
troops.  Directly  after  Bull  Run,  the  government  addressed 
itself  to  the  task  of  remedying  this  deficiency.  Agents 
appeared  throughout  the  north,  arousing  the  chivalric  spirit 
of  the  country,  and  urging  everywhere  the  formation  of 
cavalry  companies  and  regiments.  This  appeal  reached 
the  town  of  Crown  Point,  which,  as  I  have  mentioned,  had 
but  recently,  by  private  munificence,  equipped  an  infantry 
company,  and  was  responded  to  with  an  ardor  and  prompt 
ness  that  has  few  parallels  in  all  the  incidents  of  enthusiasm 
that  characterized  the  times.  The  fervid  zeal  that  was- 
inspired  could  not  be  restrained  to  await  the  formal 
preparation  of  enlisting  papers,  or  for  a  regular  mustering 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  257 

in,  by  the  usual  machinery  of  the  department.  But  a 
written  compact  was  at  once  prepared,  by  which  each  man 
was  pledged  to  serve  the  government  for  three  years  in  the 
mounted  service,  and  in  an  incredibly  short  period  it  re 
ceived  the  signatures  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-seven  of 
the  youth  of  that  town  and  its  immediate  vicinity.1  They 
constituted  the  bone  and  muscle  of  the  community.  To 
each  name  is  attached  the  age  and  occupation  of  the  signer. 
Nearly  all  were  between  the  ages  of  twenty  and  thirty  years, 
and  most  of  them  were  either  farmers  or  mechanics. 
Almost  every  signature  was  an  autograph ;  thus  affording 
evidence  of  an  intelligence  and  education  rarely  found  in  a 
body  of  soldiers  hastily  recruited.  Of  such  materials, 
Cromwell  formed  his  memorable  Ironsides,  and  these 
young  men  of  Essex  carried  with  them  into  the  service,  the 
resolute  qualities  and  the  exalted  spirit  that  made  the 
troopers  of  the  English  enthusiast  invincible  on  every  field. 
Under  this  compact,  to  which  all  implicitly  adhered, 
the  company,  without  officers  and  without  any  other 
restraint,  proceeded  to  New  York,  and  were  there  regu 
larly  mustered  into  the  service.  The  entire  body  of  men 
were  accepted  as  privates,  nor  were  their  officers  elected 
until  the  company  joined  the  regiment  on  Staten  island. 
John  Hammond  was  commissioned  captain,  September 
14,  1861;  major,  September,  1863;  lieutenant-colonel, 
March,  1864  ;  colonel,  July,  1864,  and  brevet  brigadier- 
general,  May  22,  1866.  Jonas  A.  Benedict  was  commis 
sioned  first  lieutenant,  and  James  A.  Penfield  second 
lieutenant  of  the  company,  the  22d  of  October,  1861. 
Lieutenant  Benedict  died  in  the  next  December,  and  was 
succeeded  by  Penfield,  who  was  appointed  captain  in 
July,  1863,  and  resigned  in  May,  1865.  John  G.  Yiall 

1  Tliis  instrument,  so  novel  and  remarkable  in  its  character  and  so  illustra 
tive  of  the  patriotic  ardor  that  pervaded  the  country,  is  worthy  of  the  choicest 
preservation.  This  is  its  exact  language  :  "We,  the  undersigned,  hereby  agree 
to  serve  the  government  of  the  United  States  in  the  mounted  service  for 
three  years,  unless  sooner  discharged,  subjecting  ourselves  to  all  the  rules 
and  regulations  governing  troops  in  that  branch  of  the  regular  service." 

17 


258  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

was  appointed  second  lieutenant,  December,  1861 ;  first 
lieutenant,  September,  1862,  and  captain,  April,  1864. 
Elmer  J.  Barker  was  appointed  second  lieutenant,  Sep 
tember,  1862 ;  first  lieutenant,  November,  1863 ;  captain, 
March,  1864 ;  and  major,  November,  1864.  Eugene  B. 
Hay  ward  was  appointed  second  lieutenant,  November, 
1863;  first  lieutenant,  March,  1864;  and  captain,  Novem 
ber,  1864.  Lucius  F.  Eenne,  appointed  first  lieutenant, 
November,  1864;  and  Clark  M.  Pease,  second  lieutenant, 
November,  1864.  This  catalogue  embraces  all  the  changes 
in  the  officers  of  the  company  during  its  service.  The 
company  was  collected  mainly  by  the  zeal  and  earnest  exer 
tions  of  John  Hammond,  of  Crown  Point.  The  father  of  Mr. 
Hammond,  Charles  F.  Hammond,  Esq.,  advanced  the  funds 
for  the  purchase  of  all  the  original  horses,  amounting  to 
one  hundred  and  eight,  supplied  the  company.  These 
horses  were  selected  with  extreme  care,  in  reference  to 
their  adaptedness  to  the  service,  and  were  probably  supe 
rior  to  those  of  any  troop  in  the  army.1 

This  body  of  men  was  organized  as  Company  H  of  the 
Fifth  New  York  Cavalry,  commanded  by  Colonel  Othniel 
De  Forest  of  New  York.  The  regiment  employed  the 
winter  of  1861  -  62,  at  camp  Harris  near  Annapolis  in  con 
stant  and  thorough  drilling,  and  acquired  the  discipline 
and  proficiency,  that  rendered  its  subsequent  service  so 
efficient  and  so  valuable  to  the  country.  This  narrative  pro 
poses  to  trace  the  movements  of  Company  H  distinctively 
and  the  operations  of  the  regiment,  where  that  company 
or  the  soldiers  of  Essex  were  prominently  connected  with 
them.  In  April,  this  company  was  detached  to  Luray 
Valley  on  special  service.  Here,  in  frequent  skirmishes, 
it  gradually  prepared  for  the  toils  and  the  scenes  of  peril 
and  hardships  which  were  approaching.  It  rejoined  the 
regiment  in  May,  and  did  not  participate  in  some  of  its 

1  These  animals  were  delivered  in  New  York  by  contract,  at  one  hundred 
and  thirteen  dollars  each  ;  but  such  was  the  spirit  of  the  men,  that  they 
frequently  paid  from  their  own  means,  from  five  to  twenty-five  dollars  in 
addition,  to  secure  to  themselves  a  horse  they  particularly  desired. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  259 

earlier  achievements,  but  was  with  it  in  the  disastrous  cam 
paign  of  General  Banks,  and  the  terrible  retreat  through 
the  mountains,  incident  to  it.  %  A  part  of  the  regiment,  includ 
ing  Company  II,  acted  as  flankers  to  the  army  in  this  retreat, 
and  was  exposed  perpetually  to  severe  fighting.1  Through 
out  the  month  of  July,  the  regiment  was  engaged  in 
frequent  skirmishes,  and  was  in  constant  motion,  often 
suffering  severely  from  the  want  of  rations  and  forage. 

On  the  second  of  August  a  brigade  composed  of  most  of 
the  Fifth  and  the  First  Vermont  approached  Orange  C.  H., 
from  the  east  under  the  command  of  General  Crawford. 
The  streets  were  silent  and  apparently  deserted,  as  the 
troops  entered ;  but  a  sudden  and  heavy  fire  poured  upon 
them  announced  a  concealed  enemy,  and  while  confused 
by  its  effect  they  were  repulsed  and  driven  back  from  the 
town.  Captain  Hammond  had  been  detached  in  charge 
of  Companies  G  and  H  across  the  country  to  the  Gor- 
donsville  road  which  penetrates  the  village  from  the  south 
west.  He  reached  the  road,  and  was  approaching  with  no 
knowledge  of  the  assault  and  repulse  of  the  brigade.  The 
Confederates  were  equally  ignorant  of  his  presence.  Or 
dering  his  command  to  draw  sabres,  he  said  to  them :  "  This 
is  the  first  favorable  opportunity  you  have  had  to  try  your 
sword;  use  your  hardware  well  and  we  will  take  the  place 

1  A  single  incident  will  illustrate  the  character  of  this  service.  Captain 
Hammond,  while  in  the  advance  with  ten  men,  marching  upon  the  flank, 
noticed  a  superior  body  of  rebels  in  front,  and  immediately  pursued. 
Leading  his  men  he  soon  personally  came  up  to  their  rearmost  man,  a 
strong  and  completely  armed  soldier.  They  exchanged  several  shots, 
which  were  without  effect,  owing  to  the  great  speed  with  which  they  were 
riding.  Captain  Hammond's  pistol  had  become  foul  and  useless,  while  his 
antagonist  had  two  chambers  undischarged.  Hammond  lost  his  in  attempt 
ing  to  strike  him  with  the  butt,  but  determined  to  secure  the  rebel  he 
seized  him  by  the  collar  with  both  hands  and  tore  him  from  his  horse.  In 
the  struggle,  Hammond's  horse  also  went  from  under  him,  and  they  both 
fell  to  the  ground.  Hammond  above,  one  hand  grappling  the  throat  of  the 
rebel  and  the  other  hold  of  his  pistol  hand,  while  the  rebel  was  attempting 
to  shoot  Hammond.  At  this  moment  a  private  of  Company  F  came  up  and 
by  Hammond's  order  fired  at  the  rebel.  The  ball  grazing  his  head,  brought 
him  to  surrender.  . 


260  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

or  die  in  the  attempt."  They  rushed  at  full  speed  upon 
the  enemy  in  an  impetuous  charge  and  with  a  wild  shout. 
Although  surprised,  the  Confederates  met  them  by  a  wither 
ing  discharge  of  musketry ;  but  the  enthusiasm  of  the  ca 
valry  was  irresistible.  The  enemy  were  driven  back 
to  an  open  space,  where  they  rallied  for  a  moment  and 
then  broke  and  fled  in  utter  disorder.  More  prisoners 
were  taken  than  the  feeble  force  were  able  to  secure. 

The  charge  was  most  gallantly  executed  and  terrible  in 
its  effect.  The  area,  in  which  the  rebels  made  their  last 
stand,  was  strewn  with  the  killed  and  wounded,  and  with 
unhorsed  men  bearing  fearful  evidence  of  the  force  of  the 
sabre's  blow.  When  the  cavalry,  after  these  events,  ad 
vanced  along  the  street,  they  were  first  apprized  by  the 
dead  and  dying,  men  and  horses,  of  the  preceding  com 
bat.  Lieutenant  Penfield  of  Company  H  was  peculiarly 
conspicuous  in  this  brief  conflict,  by  his  chivalric  bear 
ing.  The  enemy's  force  was  composed  of  the  celebrated 
Virginia  horse,  which  had  been  organized  by  Ashley.1 

Soon  after  this  action,  a  part  of  the  regiment  was  en 
gaged  in  the  battle  of  Cedar  Mountain.  During  the  mouth 
of  August  it  was  occupied  with  brief  relaxations,  in  toil 
some  marches,  reconnaissances  and  various  harassing  and 
exhaustive  duties.  It  participated  with  great  gallantry  in 
the  warm  engagements  at  Kelley's  Ford  and  Waterloo,  and 
on  the  27th  of  August  was  broken  up  into  detachments  to 
perform  escort  services  to  different  generals.  Duties  of 
this  character,  patroling,  observing  roads  and  guarding 
trains  constitute  an  important  part  of  the  operations  of 

1  The  ludicrous  and  comic  sometimes  relieves  the  grim  visage  of  war. 
As  the  command  was  advancing  to  the  charge,  Captain  Hammond  advised 
the  company's  cook,  Henry  Spaulding,  who  was  leading  a  pack  horse, 
loaded  with  frying  pans,  kettles,  and  all  the  paraphernalia  of  his  office,  to 
remain  in  the  rear  ;  but  this,  he  was  unwilling  to  do.  Guiding  his  own  and 
leading  the  pack  horse,  with  sabre  in  hand,  he  kept  well  up  and  boldly 
rushed  into  the  thickest  of  the  affray.  The  gallant  officer  who  furnished  me 
with  the  anecdote,  remarked  that  he  often  doubts,  whether  the  strange  din 
of  the  kettles  combined  with  the  shouting  of  the  men,  was  not  as  effective 
as  their  sabres. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  261 

cavalry,  acting  in  a  campaign  under  the  circumstances 
which  surrounded  both  armies  in  the  war  of  the  rebellion ; 
but  like  the  trench  duties  of  the  other  arms  of  the  service, 
these  operations  were  far  the  most  irksome  and  onerous 
imposed  upon  the  mounted  regiments,  attended  often  with 
greater  hardships,  toils,  and  perils  than  actual  combats ; 
they  were  not  sustained  by  the  excitement  and  glory  of 
battle.  The  movements  of  the  Fifth,  with  a  few  brief  in 
terludes  of  repose,  were  incessant  and  generally  severe.  Its 
history  from  May,  1862,  when  it  entered  into  active  duty, 
to  April,  1865,  presents  a  remarkable  arid  scarcely  parallel 
series  of  severe  services  and  hard  fought  battles.  Besides 
the  toils  and  endurance  of  this  special  service,  it  was  en 
gaged  in  a  mass  or  by  detachments  in  one  hundred  and 
eighteen  skirmishes  and  fifty-three  battles,  necessarily 
varied  in  their  importance  and  severity.1 

The  scope  of  my  work  will  permit  me  only  to  glance  at 
some  of  the  most  prominent  of  these  events.  The  Fifth 
was  on  the  bloody  fields  of  second  Bull  Run,  Chantilly  and 
Antietam.  Major  Hammond  conducting  an  expedition  in 
October,  came  in  collision  with  the  Confederates  at  Lees- 
burg,  Upperville  and  Thoroughfare  Gap,  and  engaged  in 
a  running  fight  while  pursuing  their  cavalry  from  Hay- 
market  to  Warrenton.  The  opening  weeks  of  1863,  were 
devoted  by  the  regiment  to  unremitting  picket  duty  charged 
to  oppose  and  repel  the  incursions  of  the  guerrillas,  that 
thronged  the  front  of  the  Union  lines.  On  the  26th  Janu 
ary,  a  detachment  was  ordered  in  pursuit  of  a  party  which 
had  captured  a  picket  of  the  Eighteenth  Pennsylvania,  and 
at  Middleburg,  Major  Hammond,  who  was  in  command, 
executed  a  brilliant  charge  through  the  town,  captured 
twenty-five  of  Mosby's  cavalry,  and  dispersed  the  party. 
A  fortnight  later,  Captain  Penfield  in  command  of 

1  The  interesting  Historic  Record  of  the  Fifth  New  York,  by  the  Rev. 
Louis  N.  Boudrye,  its  chaplain,  exhibits  a  tabular  statement  of  the  skir 
mishes  and  battles  in  which  the  regiment  was  engaged,  with  the  date  and 
locality  of  each. 


262  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Companies  F  and  H,  was  engaged  in  warm  skirmishing 
with  large  detachments  of  the  enemy  at  New  Baltimore 
and  Warrenton.  On  the  9th  of  March,  Mosby  by  a  bold 
movement  surprised,  at  Fairfax  C.  H.,  nearly  six  miles 
within  the  Federal  lines,  an  Union  detachment  and  captured 
thirty  prisoners,  including  General  Stoughton  and  Captain 
Augustus  Barker,  of  Company  L,  and  fifty  choice  horses, 
belonging  to  the  Fifth.  These  men  had  been  detached 
from  the  regiment,  and  were  acting  under  the  command 
of  the  provost  marshal.  The  brigade  pursued  the  enemy 
by  different  routes,  but  with  no  success.  On  the  23d, 
the  regiment  experienced  another  severe  and  mortifying 
reverse.  The  rebels  making  a  feint  attack  on  a  picket 
retreated  rapidly,  pursued  by  a  part  of  the  Fifth,  in 
charge  of  Majors  Bacon  and  White.  The  pursuers  were 
arrested  by  a  barricade  across  the  road,  and  suddenly  as 
sailed  by  a  sharp  fire  in  front  and  flank.  At  this  moment 
Mosby  dashed  upon  them  in  an  unexpected  impetuous 
charge.  The  cavalry  broke  and  precipitately  retreated, 
with  a  loss  of  five  killed  and  wounded,  and  thirty-six 
prisoners,  including  one  commissioned  officer.  It  was  at 
length  rallied  by  the  efforts  of  the  officers,  and  reenforced ; 
it  in  turn  repulsed  and  pursued  the  enemy  a  distance  of 
several  miles.  Yet  the  chagrin  and  mortification  of  the 
defeat  remained.  Whatever  lustre  was  lost  to  the  fame 
of  the  Fifth  by  this  reverse  wras  gloriously  restored  on  the 
3d  of  May.  Early  in  the  morning,  the  First  Virginia 
cavalry  while  dismounted,  were  surprised  by  Mosby  with 
a  detachment  of  the  Black  Horse  Cavalry  and  a  guerrilla 
force.  Separated  from  their  horses,  the  First  retreated  to 
a  house,  and  courageously  defended  themselves,  refusing 
to  surrender.  Mosby  then  ordered  the  building  to  be 
fired.  At  that  critical  juncture,  the  Fifth,  which,  without 
the  knowledge  of  the  rebels,  was  bivouacking  in  a  neigh 
boring  grove,  burst  upon  them,  under  the  command  of 
Major  Hammond.  A  furious  fight  ensued  ;  but  the  Con 
federates  fled,  broken  and  scattered,  sustaining  a  heavy 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  263 

loss  in  killed,  wounded  and  prisoners.  This  gallant  ex 
ploit  was  noticed  in  warm  commendation  by  a  special 
order  of  the  division  commander. 

On  the  30th  of  May,  the  rebels,  by  an  adroit  expedient, 
arrested  a  train  advancing  by  the  Orange  and  Alexandria 
rail  road  to  the  Rapidan,  heavily  ladened  with  army 
supplies,  and  opened  upon  it  a  fire  from  a  twelve-pounder 
mountain  howitzer.  The  infantry  guard  upon  the  train, 
unable  to  oppose  the  storm  of  cannister,  dispersed,  and  the 
whole  train  with  its  contents  was  consumed.  The  Fifth, 
with  the  First  Vermont  and  Seventh  Michigan  cavalry  was 
stationed  on  the  road,  and  through  their  encampment  the 
train  had  just  before  passed.  They  were  startled  by  the 
report  of  the  gun,  and  those  not  engaged  on  picket  duty 
directly  mounted,  and  taking  different  routes  marched 
across  the  country  with  the  hope  of  intercepting  the  rebel 
retreat.  The  Fifth  first  came  upon  them  and  immediately 
charged ;  but  was  repulsed  by  a  discharge  of  small  arms 
and  the  howitzer,  at  close  quarters  in  a  narrow  road  which 
the  guns  completely  commanded.  The  officer  in  command 
of  the  Fifth,  Capt.  Hasbroock,  judiciously  hesitated  on 
renewing  the  assault,  but  Lieutenant  Barker  of  Company 
H,  unwilling  to  allow  the  enemy  to  escape  in  their  triumph, 
and  calling  on  the  men  to  follow  in  the  charge  upon  the 
gun,  he  dashed  up  a  steep  hill  at  the  head  of  less  than  a 
score  of  volunteers,  and  when  they  had  nearly  reached 
the  howitzer  it  poured  forth  a  withering  shower  of 
cannister,  by  which  the  young  leader  was  stricken  down 
with  two  shot  through  his  thigh,  another  severing  the 
sole  from  his  boot ;  his  horse  received  three  grape  and  two 
pistol  balls  in  his  body.  Three  of  the  little  band  were 
killed  and  most  of  the  others  severely  wounded;  but  before 
the  piece  could  be  reloaded  the  survivors  were  sabreing 
the  gunners  at  their  post.  After  a  brief  but  fierce  conflict 
the  howitzer  was  recaptured,  for  it  had  been  taken  at 
Ball's  bluff,  and  to  the  captors  it  was  a  proud  and  grateful 
trophy.  The  rebels  lost  two  officers  and  several  men, 


264  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

wounded  and  captured.    In  this  movement  Mosby  first  intro 
duced  his  use  of  artillery.1 

Soon  after  this  occurrence,  the  cavalry  division  to  which 
the  Fifth  was  attached,  joined  the  army  of  the  Potomac  in 
the  Gettysburg  campaign.  On  the  last  day  of  June,  the 
cavalry  division  of  Kilpatrick,  with  two  batteries  of 
artillery,  were  defiling  through  Hanover,  Penn.  Each 
regiment,  in  its  passage,  was  regaled  by  the  patriotic 
citizens.  While  the  Fifth  was  in  the  act  of  participating 
in  this  hospitality,  a  cannon  sounded  from  an  adjacent 
height.  For  the  moment  it  was  supposed  to  be  connected 
with  the  demonstration,  but  it  proved  to  be  a  signal  gun, 
and  its  echo  had  scarcely  ceased,  when  Stuart,  at  the 
head  of  a  large  party  of  cavalry,  rushed  in  a  furious  assault 
upon  the  Eighteenth  Pennsylvania,  which  held  the  rear 
of  the  brigade,  Stuart  was  unexpectedly  present  with 
three  thousand  horse,  supported  by  artillery,  and  was  in 
occupation  of  the  surrounding  hills.  With  consummate 
coolness  and  judgment,  Major  Hammond,  then  in  com 
mand  of  the  Fifth,  which  in  the  street  received  the  first 
shock  of  the  attack,  instantly  formed  the  regiment,  faced 
to  the  rear  in  column,  and  charged  the  enemy's  front. 
A  fearful  hand  to  hand  conflict  in  the  narrow  street  suc 
ceeded,  when  the  rebels,  broken  and  repulsed,  with  a 
heavy  loss,  sought  the  protection  of  their  artillery.  The 
casualties  of  the  Fifth  were  forty  killed  and  wounded,  and 
a  few  missing.  Adjutant  Gall  was  killed  while  charging 
in  the  street,  and  Major  White  slightly  wounded.  The 
trophies  of  the  Fifth  included  the  commander  of  a  bri- 

1  The  age  of  nineteen  was  attached  in  the  compact  I  have  mentioned  to 
the  signature  of  Elmer  J.  Barker.  On  the  9th  of  February,  preceding  this 
action,  he  suffered  a  severe  contusion  by  the  fall  of  his  horse  while  charging 
in  the  fight  at  New  Baltimore.  After  receiving  the  wounds  mentioned  in 
the  text,  he  was  first  carried  to  the  hospital  at  Fairfax  C.  H.,  and  subsequently 
in  haste  to  Alexandria.  From  thence  he  was  removed  to  New  York, 
nursed  and  tenderly  cared  for  by  two  ladies  whose  husbands  were  in  the 
regiment.  From  New  York  he  was  brought  by  fix*  wife  of  a  distinguished 
officer  to  his  native  mountains,  where  he  recovered  from  his  wounds  and  re 
turned  to  the  army. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  265 

gade,  and  a  battle  flag,  and  a  few  prisoners.  The  division 
was  engaged  in  the  afternoon  of  the  2d  of  July,  with  the 
enemy's  cavalry  on  the  left  of  their  line  at  Gettysburg. 
Ouster,  with  the  second  brigade,  retained  that  position 
through  the  3d.  The  First  brigade  including  the  Fifth, 
under  Kilpatrick  and  Farnsworth,  marched  all  the  night 
of  the  2d,  and  reached  the  right  flank  of  the  rebels  about 
ten  o'clock  on  he  3d,  and  maintained  a  vigorous  contest 
through  the  day.  Repeated  charges  were  made  upon  the 
enemy's  infantry  line,  in  one  of  which  General  Farnsworth, 
the  commander  of  the  brigade,  gallantly  fell.  The  Fifth, 
during  a  part  of  these  events,  was  left  in  support  of  Elder's 
battery,  and  exposed  to  a  tremendous  cannonade. 

On  the  night  of  the  4th,  the  cavalry  division  intercepted 
upon  the  summit  of  South  mouatain  the  enemy  with  an 
immense  train  transporting  the  spoils  of  Pennsylvania. 
After  a  sharp  contest  the  entire  train  was  captured  with 
fifteen  hundred  prisoners  and  two  hundred  wagons  burnt. 
On  the  6th,  the  division  was  engaged  in  the  defense  of 
Hagerstown  against  the  attacks  of  Stuart's  cavalry,  and  in 
the  afternoon  of  that  day  retreated  before  Hood's  infantry 
towards  Williamsport  amid  continuous  and  severe  fighting. 
In  one  of  the  charges  in  these  conflicts  the  horse  of  Cap 
tain  Penfield  of  Company  H  was  killed  under  him,  and 
while  attempting  to  extricate  himself  from  the  fallen  ani 
mal  he  received  a  fearful  sabre  cut  upon  the  head,  and 
was  taken  prisoner.  He  suffered  in  the  southern  prisons 
until  March,  1865,  and  resigned  soon  after  his  exchange. 
The  third  division,  united  with  Burford's,  maintained  on 
the  8th  upon  the  plains  near  Antietam  creek  a  severe 
engagement  with  Stuart  supported  by  Hood.  The  conflict 
was  desperate  and  sanguinary,  but  in  a  final  charge  by  the 
Union  cavalry  towards  the  close  of  the  day,  the  rebels  were 
swept  from  the  field  with  a  heavy  loss.  On  the  14th  the 
division  attacked  the  rear  of  the  retreating  enemy  near 
Falling  Water,  and  captured  a  brigade  of  infantry  under 
General  Pettigrew,  who  was  mortally  wounded,  two  flags 
and  two  pieces  of  cannon.  During  the  remainder  of  the 


266  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

summer  and  far  into  autumn  the  regiment  was  incessantly 
engaged  in  the  severest  field  duties,  attended  with  frequent 
bloody  collisions  with  the  enemy's  horse.  On  the  10th  and 
llth  of  October,  the  division  was  involved  in  a  most  cri 
tical  position  from  a  formidable  attack  by  infantry  and 
cavalry  in  the  neighborhood  of  Culpepper,  and  near  Brandy 
Station.  Surrounded  by  the  enemy,  it  was  only  extricated 
by  one  of  the  most  daring  charges  led  by  Kilpatrick,  Davies 
and  Ouster  that  signalized  the  war.  The  enemy  was 
checked,  and  the  division  united  with  Bur  ford's,  and  at  night 
fell  back  across  the  Rappahannock.  During  these  operations, 
Major  Hammond,  with  half  of  the  Fifth,  was  in  support  of  a 
section  of  Elder's  battery,  while  Major  White  was  support 
ing  the  other  section  with  the  remainder  of  the  regiment, 
and  by  a  bold  and  opportune  charge  they  saved  the  battery 
from  capture.  On  the  10th  of  December,  Major  Ham 
mond  and  Captain  Krom  were  ordered  home  on  recruiting 
service,  and  returned  to  the  regiment  before  the  middle  of 
March,  having  enlisted  five  hundred  men  by  great  efforts 
and  personal  disbursements.  A  large  part  of  the  regiment 
at  this  time  reentered  the  service  on  a  new  enlistment. 

At  the  approach  of  the  new  year  of  1864,  the  Fifth  were 
permitted  to  construct  near  Germania  Ford  its  winter 
quarters ;  but  this  promise  of  repose  resulted  in  only  slight 
actual  relaxation  of  their  active  patrol  service.  On  the 
28th  February,  the  entire  third  division  marched  upon  a 
raid  of  more  than  usual  importance  towards  Richmond. 
A  detachment  of  the  Fifth  was  detailed  to  serve  in  the 
subordinate  and  unfortunate  expedition  of  Colonel  Dahl- 
gren,  but  it  embraced  no  member  of  Company  H.  The 
division  encountered  in  its  movement  extreme  suffering 
and  toil,  at  length  reached  the  Union  lines  near  Yorktown, 
were  transported  to  Alexandria,  and  from  thence  reached 
its  former  camp  at  Stevensburg.  Towards  the  close  of 
April,  the  regiment  broke  up  its  nominal  winter  quarters 
and  prepared  for  the  impending  campaign.  On  the  4th 
of  May,  the  Fifth  leading  the  division  forded  the  Rapidan; 
the  first  regiment  in  this  campaign  that  crossed  that 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  267 

stream.  Early  the  next  morning  a  heavy  column  of  infantry 
appeared  on  its  flank,  and  a  furious  conflict  immediately 
commenced.  This  action  was  the  initiative  of  the  memo 
rable  battle  of  the  Wilderness.  Colonel  Hammond  after 
holding  his  ground  three  hours,  advised  General  Meade  of 
the  evidently  large  force  in  his  front,  with  the  assurance 
that  he  would  "  hold  them  in  check  as  long  as  possible." 
By  voice  and  example  he  maintained  the  regiment  reso 
lutely  in  hand.  A  portion  of  it  was  dismounted,  and  as 
sailed  the  enemy  with  the  Spencer  rifle  with  terrible  effect. 
Until  relieved  by  a  part  of  the  sixth  corps,  the  Fifth,  with 
unsurpassed  firmness  and  devotion,  confronted  for  five 
hours  the  assailing  column,  and  slowly  and  defiantly  fall 
ing  back.  It  performed  most  valuable  service  to-  the 
army  but  at  a  fearful  sacrifice  to  itself.  After  this  bril 
liant  achievement,  the  Fifth  was  ordered  to  bivouac  near 
the  Wilderness  Tavern,  to  be  under  the  immediate  orders- 
of  General  Meade. 

On  the  7th,  the  Fifth,  in  conjunction  with  two  other 
regiments,  all  under  the  command  of  Colonel  Hammond,, 
was  again  in  the  advance,  intrusted  with  the  respon 
sible  duty  of  guarding  the  fords  and  picketting  the 
roads.  In  the  afternoon,  the  command  was  attacked  by 
cavalry  and  artillery,  and  a  part  giving  way,  Hammond 
was  compelled  to  make  a  rapid  retreat  down  the  river. 
When  Grant  effected  his  first  flank  movement,  the  Fifth 
was  the  last  regiment  that  left  the  Wilderness.  It  was  in 
the  rear  of  Burnside's  corps,  and  the  command  of  Ham 
mond,  subsequently  formed  the  rear  of  Hancock's  corps. 
Colonel  Hammond  was  reentbrced  on  the  17th,  by  the 
First  Massachusetts,  twelve  hundred  strong,  with  direct 
orders  from  General  Meade,  to  destroy  the  Guineas  station , 
and  make  a  reconnaissance  on  Lee's  flank.  He  found 
the  enemy  strongly  fortified  on  the  banks  of  the  Potomac, 
and  a  warmly  contested  action  occurred,  without  dislodg 
ing  their  force.  Four  days  later,  the  regiment  had 
another  severe  fight  on  the  Mattapony.  On  the  23d,  it 
encountered  the  enemy  in  large  force,  near  Mt.  Carmel 


268  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Church.  A  furious  fight  ensued,  that  brought  on  a  general 
engagement  between  the  armies,  which  resulted  in  the 
rebels  being  driven  from  their  strong  position  on  the 
North  Anna.  The  brigade,  on  the  1st  of  June,  met  the 
rebels  in  a  conflict  of  unusual  severity,  at  Ashland  station. 
Although  inflicting  a  heavy  loss  upon  the  enemy,  it  suf 
fered  itself  severely.  Major  White  of  the  Fifth,  was 
•dangerously  wounded,  and  Colonel  Hammond  received 
a  ball  just  above  the  ankle,  that  had  flattened  upon  his 
scabbard.  On  a  previous  occasion  he  had  been  wounded 
in  the  hand.  At  Salem  church  the  brigade  was  again  en 
gaged,  and  on  the  15th,  near  White  Oaks  Swamp,  the 
division  suddenly  encountered  a  heavy  Confederate  co 
lumn,  and  after  a  severely  contested  action,  the  division 
•was  overwhelmed  by  superior  numbers,  suffered  heavily, 
and  was  compelled  to  fall  back. 

General  Wilson,  who  had  succeeded  Kilpatrick  in  the 
-command  of  the  Third  division,  aided  by  Kautz's  brigade 
of  cavalry,  and  fourteen  pieces  of  flying  artillery  on  the 
:22d  of  June,  commenced  his  remarkable  raid  which  was 
-designed  to  sever  the  enemy's  communications  below  Rich 
mond.  Rushing  with  the  utmost  celerity  along  devious 
roads  and  through  unfrequented  bypaths,  it  accomplished  a 
-vast  work  of  devastation.  It  first  struck  the  Weldon  rail 
road  ;  it  next  reached  the  South  Side  road ;  here  and  every 
where  on  its  march  destruction  marked  its  track.  Near 
the  close  of  the  second  day,  it  was  met  by  a  strong  force 
of  the  enemy ;  a  sharp  engagement  followed,  protracted  long 
into  the  night.  The  Fifth  was  in  the  skirmish  line,  and 
fought  with  its  usual  ardor  and  efficiency.  On  the  24th 
the  expedition  reached  and  effectually  broke  up  the  Danville 
road.  The  next  day  Kautz  was  repulsed  in  an  attempt  to 
burn  the  bridge  over  the  Staunton  river.  Up  to  this  point, 
ten  important  and  several  smaller  stations  and  depots  had 
been  destroyed,  and  fifty  miles  of  rail  road  track  with  their 
bridges  and  culverts.  The  course  of  the  expedition  was 
now  describing  a  wide  circle  gradually  tending  towards  the 
Union  line.  The  28th,  it  reached  the  Weldon  road,  and 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  2691 

through  the  night  with  brief  pauses  was  engaged  In  a  fight 
with  an  infantry  force.  On  the  eighth  day  of  its  march  it 
again  approached  Ream's  station.  The  Fifth  was  leading,, 
and  a  mile  and  a  half  in  advance  of  the  column.  Here  the- 
harassed  troops  had  the  assurance  of  meeting  a  support,  but 
instead  of  succor  and  friends,  they  were  confronted  by  an* 
impassable  barrier,  supported  by  a  force  of  overwhelming- 
strength.  The  decision  was  promptly  made  to  attempt  a 
retreat  to  Rowanty  creek  and  there  fortify  while  scouts 
should  penetrate  the  rebel  lines  and  apprise  General  Grant 
of  the  critical  position  of  the  command.  The  execution  of 
the  plan  was  attempted,  but  while  the  main  body  was- 
in  bivouac  it  was  irresistibly  assailed  by  the  rebels  or*  its- 
flanks  and  rear  and  utterly  routed.  I  am  unable  to  trace1 
the  incidents  by  which  the  command,  broken  mp  and  scat 
tered,  reached  the  Federal  lines  by  detachments,  in  smal:l 
parties  and  individually,  many  after  several  days  of  severe- 
suffering.  The  artillery,  wagons  and  trains  were  lost.  Many 
of  the  troops  were  slain  and  numerous  prisoners  and  horse* 
left  in  the  enemy's  hands.  Hundreds  of  slaves,  who  had: 
gathered  in  joyous  exultation  around  the  column^  were- 
abandoned  to  their  fate. 

The  shattered  Fifth,  after  its  fearful  endurance  in  this 
expedition,  was  allowed  a  brief  period  of  reposey  but  on>  the- 
6th  of  August,  the  whole  division  was  embarked  on  trans 
ports  at  City  Point  and  transferred  to  a  new  field  of 'action 
with  the  army  of  the  Shenandoah.  A  number  of  the  regi 
ment,  who  were  disabled  or  had  lost  their  horses-  in  the- 
raid,  had  been  previously  sent  to  camp  Stoneman  near  Wash 
ington,  participated  in  the  series  of  battle*  fought  the- 
month  of  July  in  upper  Maryland.  The  Fifth  was  soon 
after  actively  engaged  in  picket  duty,  in  aiding  to  cover 
Sheridan's  retreat  from  Cedar  creek,  slowly  failing  back 
amid  incessant  conflicts.  On  the  25th  of  Augu«ty  the  first 
.and  third  divisions  of  cavalry  met  a  heavy  force  of  the 
enemy  under  Breckenridge,  and  after  a  protracted  engage 
ment  were  forced  to  retreat.  The  regiment  lost  a  number 
in  killed  and  wounded,  including  Lieutenant  Greenleaf 


270  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

commanding  Company  A;  mortally  wounded.  At  night  it 
moved  to  the  Potomac,  and  crossing  at  Maryland  heights 
on  a  pontoon  bridge,  it  did  not  pause  until  it  reached  Antie- 
tam  creek.  Two  days  afterwards  the  division  recrossed 
the  Potomac  and  with  the  army  again  assumed  an  offensive 
attitude. 

The  term  of  Colonel  Hammond's  service  having  expired 
and  private  duties  constraining  his  return  to  civil  life,  on 
the  30th  of  August,  he  bade  a  formal  farewell  to  the  noble 
regiment  he  had  so  long  commanded  and  led  through  a 
series  of  such  brilliant  services.  An  infinitude  of  toils  and 
privation,  of  perils  and  triumphs  and  a  common  fame,  had 
united  the  officers  and  men  of  the  Fifth  by  no  ordinary 
ties  of  cordial  affection,  and  fraternal  sympathy.  As  no 
man  had  entered  the  service  of  the  country  from  loftier 
impulses  than  Colonel  Hammond,  so  no  officer  of  his 
grade  left  the  army  with  a  higher  reputation.  He  was 
succeeded  in  the  command  of  the  regiment  by  Lieutenant 
Colonel  Bacon.1 

In  the  early  part  of  September,  the  brigade  was  con 
stantly  engaged  with  the  enemy's  forces,  and  on  the 
13th  captured  at  Opequan  the  South  Carolina  Eighth  with 
its  colonel  and  standard.  On  the  19th,  it  was  engaged  in 
the  terrible  battle  near  Winchester,  and  during  that  day 
executed  five  distinct  charges,  four  of  which  were  against 
the  close  serried  ranks  of  infantry.  Its  losses  were  heavy, 
but  its  bearing  was  eminently  conspicuous.  Advancing 
in  the  pursuit  of  the  enemy,  the  regiment  was  exposed 
near  Ashbury  church  to  a  furious  shelling,  such  as  it  had 
never  before  experienced;  but  it  maintained  its  position 


1  The  application  of  Colonel  Hammond  to  be  mustered  out,  was  approved 
by  General  Wilson,  in  an  endorsement  from  which  I  make  the  following 
extracts:  "Colonel  Hammond  is  a  most  valuable  and  worthy  officer, 
and  has  served  with  great  credit  to  himself,  and  benefit  to  the  service." 
General  Torbet  in  his  approval  writes :  "  I  am  pleased  to  mention  from  per 
sonal  observation,  that  he  is  one  of  the  most  accomplished  officers  I  have 
known  in  the  service,  and  the  country  can  ill  afford  to  lose  the  services  of 
such  an  officer  at  this  time." — Boudrye. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  271 

with   unfaltering  firmness   and   tenacity.      Through   the 
month  of  September  it  had  trifling  relief  from  incessant 
and  harassing  duty  in  patroling,  forming  escort,  and  in 
actual  conflict.     During  this  period,  one  of  the  most  sad 
and  revolting  services  was  imposed  on  the  Fifth,  that  the 
harsh  severity  of  warfare  exacts  from  the  soldier.     A  Lieu 
tenant  Meigs  of  the  Union  army  had  heen  barbarously 
assassinated  by   unknown  persons   residing  near  Dayton. 
The  government  deemed  a  stern  retaliatory  example  de 
manded,  and  ordered  every  edifice  to  be  burnt  in  an  area 
of  three  miles.     The  regiment  was  detailed   to   execute 
this  fearful  retribution.     Numerous  splendid  mansions  and 
happy  homes  were  consigned  to  the  torch,  without  any 
discrimination  between  the  innocent  and  guilty ;  but  the  im 
pulses  of  compassion  at  length  prevailed  and  the  order  was 
arrested  before  the  devastation  reached  the  pleasant  village 
of  Dayton.     During  several  successive  days,  the  regiment 
was  employed  in  the  burning  of  forage  and  grain  and  the 
destruction  of  mills;    a   ruthless   necessity  of  war,   that 
marked  the  course  of  Sheridan's  army  with  ashes  and  ruin. 
Determined  to  arrest  the  harassing  assaults  of  the  enemy 
upon  the  Union  pickets  and  rear,  Ouster,  with  the  Third 
division  on  the  9th  of  October  turned  back  upon  and  at 
tacked  them  in  one  of  the  most  spirited  cavalry  actions  of 
the  war.     Amid  the   animating   clangor  of   the    bugles 
along  the  whole  front,  sounding  the  charge,  the  entire  line 
rushed  forward ;  Ouster  himself  at  the  head  of  the  Fifth 
dashed  upon  the  rebel's  strong  central  position.     The  issue 
formed  a  brilliant  success  to  the  federal  troops.     On  the 
19th,   the  division   was  lying   at  Cedar  creek   with   the 
Union  army,  and  indulging  in  its   fatal    security.     It  en 
dured  the  common  disasters  incident  to  the  surprise  and 
rout,    and  fully    participated    in    the    crowning    victory 
wrought  by  the  marvellous  inspirations  of  Sheridan.    Near 
the  cloee  of  the  day,  the  Confederates  made   a  final  and 
desperate  effort  to  redeem  its  fortunes,  by  a  cavalry  attack 
upon  the  flank  of  the  Union  army.     This  movement,  Ous 
ter  was  ordered  to    repel.     Torn   by  the  Union  artillery, 


272  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

and  at  sundown  assailed  by  the  whole  line,  the  rebels 
broke  and  fled  in  a  disordered  rout.  At  that  moment, 
the  Third  division  burst  upon  them  in  a  merciless  pursuit. 
There  was  no  cheering;  no  sounding  of  trumpets,  and 
the  flying  enemy  were  admonished  of  impending  slaughter 
only  by  the  trampling  of  pursuing  horses.  At  length  they 
halt  and  pour  a  volley  upon  the  Union  cavalry.  Then 
the  bugles  sounded  and  Ouster  and  his  men  were  in  their 
midst,  and  a  scene  of  carnage  ensued  that  had  scarcely  a 
parrallel  in  the  war.  A  bloody  track,  weapons  broken  or 
abandoned,  the  bodies  of  the  dead  and  wounded,  attested 
the  horrors  of  the  flight.  For  five  miles  the  pursuit  con 
tinued,  until  darkness  spread  its  compassionate  mantle 
over  the  frightful  spectacle.  Captain  Barker  of  Company 
H,  by  the  personal  command  of  Custer,  had  ledlhe  charge. 
The  Fifth,  commanded  in  the  field  by  Major  A.  H.  Krom, 
gleaned  immense  spoils  from  the  common  harvest  of  the 
great  victory.1 

The  Second  and  Third  divisions  of  cavalry  while  engaged 
in  a  reconnaissance  on  the  22d  of  November,  near  ML 
Jackson,  were  involved  in  a  hard  fought  battle,  and 
again  the  Fifth  was  peculiarly  distinguished,  in  repelling 
by  a  bold  and  vigorous  movement  a  flank  attack  on  the 
column  by  the  Confederate  cavalry.  On  the  25th,  the  regi 
ment  was  ordered  into  camp  near  the  headquarters  of  the 
commanding  general,  and  a  few  days  after  was  allowed  to 
construct  its  winter  quarters  near  Winchester.  On  the 
27th  of  February,  1865,  Sheridan  moved  with  the  cavalry 

1  This  is  attested  by  the  official  receipt : .  "  Received  of  the  Fifth  New  York 
Cavalry  commanded  by  Major  A.  H.  Krorn,  twenty-two  pieces  of  artillery,, 
fourteen  caissons,  one  battery  wagon,  seventeen  army  wagons,  six  spring 
wagons  and  ambulances,  eighty-three  sets  of  artillery  harness,  seventy-five 
sets  of  wagon  harness,  ninety-eight  horses,  sixty-seven  mules,  captured  in; 
action  in  the  battle  of  the  19th  October,  1864,  at  Cedar  Creek,  Va.  A.  C.  M_ 
Pennington,  Jr.,  colonel  commanding  brigade."  General  Custer,  in  an  enthu 
siastic  address  to  the  Third  division,  among  other  high  panegyrics  on  it* 
achievement,  exclaims :  "  Again,  during  the  memorable  engagement  of  the- 
19th,  your  conduct  throughout  was  sublimely  heroic  and  without  a  parallel 
in  the  annals  of  warfare." 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  273 

of  the  Shenandoah  towards  Staunton,  and  on  the  1st  of 
March  at  Waynesboro',  nearly  annihilated  the  relics  of 
Early's  army.  Fourteen  hundred  prisoners  were  among 
the  fruits  of  this  victory.  Sheridan  decided  to  transfer 
most  of  these  to  the  Union  rear,  and  the  Fifth,  under  Colo 
nel  Boice,  with  broken  parties  of  other  regiments,  amount 
ing  in  all  to  about  one  thousand  men,  was  detached  as 
their  escort.  The  distance  was  more  than  one  hundred 
miles,  through  a  country  infested  by  guerrilla  bands,  and 
occupied  by  General  Rosser,  an  alert  and  energetic  rebel 
leader.  The  service  was  difficult  and  perilous,  but  was 
successfully  executed.  Rosser  made  a  vehement  effort  to 
rescue  the  prisoners,  but  was  repulsed  with  a  severe  loss, 
leaving  a  number  of  his  troops  to  augment  the  aggregate 
of  prisoners.  General  Sheridan  had  detained  about  his 
own  person  a  small  detachment  of  the  Fifth,  selected  for 
special  duty.  These  accompanied  him  on  his  trying  march 
to  the  James  ;  participated  with  their  wonted  efficiency  in 
the  closing  battles  of  the  war,  and  were  present  at  the  sur 
render  of  Lee. 

The  main  body  of  the  regiment  performed  on  the  19th 
of  May  its  final  service  in  an  expedition  to  Lexington,  Ya., 
to  effect  the  arrest  of  Governor  Letcher,  and  on  the  19th  of 
July  it  received  its  last  general  orders,  directing  its  return 
to  New  York,  to  be  there  mustered  out  of  service  and 
discharged.  By  an  auspicious  fortune  the  Fifth  had  fought 
at  Hanover,  Pa.,  the  first  battle  on  free  soil ;  it  was  the  first 
Union  regiment  that  crossed  the  Rapidan  in  Grant's  cam 
paign  ;  it  received  the  first  shock  at  the  battle  of  the 
Wilderness,  and  was  the  last  to  leave  the  field.'1 

The  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  New  York  Volunteers. 

This  gallant  regiment  was  recruited  entirely  in  the  six 
teenth  congressional  district,  and  throughout  its  whole 

1  Besides  official  documents,  I  am  largely  indebted  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Boudrye's 
Historic  Record  of  the  Fifth  for  the  facts  I  have  embodied  in  the  preceding 
pages.  I  have  also  received  valuable  information  from  officers  connected 
with  the  regiment. 

18 


274  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

career,  was  an  object  of  peculiar  pride   and  solicitude  to 
the  people  of  that  district.     Its   organization   embraced 
three  companies  from  Warren  county,  A,  D,  G;    three 
from  Clinton  county,  B,  H,  I;    three  from  Essex  county, 
C,  E,  F ;  and  one,  K,  from  Essex  and  Clinton.     The  latter 
company  was  enrolled  chiefly  in  the  Au  Sable  valley ;  a 
part  in  Peru,  and  a  small  portion,  including  the  captain, 
were  residents  of  Jay.     The  regiment,  with  great  appro 
priateness  designated  the  Adirondac,  was  mustered  into 
service  the  29th  August,  1862,  with  Samuel  F.  Eichards 
of  Warrensburg,  colonel,  Oliver  Keese,   Jr.,  of  Keese- 
ville,  lieutenant-colonel,  and  George  F.  Nichols,  of  Pitts 
burgh,   major.     By   the  successive   resignations  in  both 
cases   from  severe  sickness,  of  Colonel  Richards  in   the 
summer  of  1863,  and  Keese,  in  May,  1864,  Major  Nichols 
was  promoted  to  the  command  of  the  regiment,  and  led 
it   with  distinguished   skill  and   courage  in   many  of  the 
severe  conflicts  it   encountered.     Colonel  Keese,  during 
his  command  of  the  regiment,  was  usually  in  the  perform 
ance  of  active  duty  in  the  field.     At  the  mustering  in,  the 
officers  of  Company   C   were    James   H.   Pierce  of  St. 
Armands,  Captain  Nathan  L.  Washburn  of  Wilmington, 
first,  and  George  M.  Butrick  of  Jay,  second  lieutenant ; 
the  two  latter  resigned  in  1863,  and  were  succeeded  by 
George  F.  Campbell  and  Luther  S.  Bryant.     Of  Company 
E,  Jacob  Parmerter  of  North  Hudson  was  captain,  Jo 
seph  R,    Seaman  of  Schroon,  first   lieutenant,  who   was 
promoted  to  the  captaincy  of  Company  A,  and  came  home 
in  that  command ;  and  John  Brydon  of  Crown  Point  second 
lieutenant,  who  succeeded  Seaman,  was  promoted  to  the 
command  of  Company  K,  was  afterwards  in  the  ordnance 
department  and  general  staff',  and  brevetted  major.     Ser 
geant  Edgar  A.  Wing  succeeded  Brydon  and  Sergeant  J. 
Wesley   Treadway,  promoted   to   second   lieutenant;   in 
November,  1864,  first  lieutenant  Company  A.     Corporal 
M.  Y.  B.  Knox  was  promoted  second  lieutenant  Colored 
Volunteers,  and  left  the  service  with  rank  of  captain.     In 
Company  F,  Robert  W.  Livingstone  of  Elizabethtown, 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  275 

was  captain,  and  received  the  brevet  of  major;  John  L. 
Cunningham,  of  Essex,  first  lieutenant,  was  promoted  in 
1863,  to  captain  of  Company  D,  and  to  major  in  1864,  and 
brevetted  lieutenant-colonel ;  and  William  H.  Stevenson 
of  Moriah,  second  lieutenant,  who  succeeded  Cunningham. 
Henry  J.  Northrop  was  appointed  second  lieutenant  in 
1864 ;  Daniel  A.  O'Connor  was  promoted  to  first  lieu 
tenant  in  1864,  and  came  home  in  acting  command  of 
company.  Charles  A.  Grace  was  promoted  to  second  lieu 
tenant.  Henry  J.  Adams  and  Nelson  J.  Gibbs  were  pro 
moted  from  this  company  to  lieutenancies  in  Companies 
G,  and  I.  Adams  was  afterwards  advanced  to  captain 
and  commissioner  of  subsistence  and  brevet  major,  1ST.  Y. 
Y.  Eowland  C.  Kellogg,  promoted  to  second,  soon  after 
first  lieutenant  Company  D,  and  in  1864  appointed  captain 
in  commissary  department.  The  officers  of  Company  K 
were  John  S.  Stone  of  Jay,  captain,  John  H.  Boynton  of 
Peru,  first  lieutenant,  resigned  in  spring  of  1864  and  suc 
ceeded  by  Sam  Sherman  of  Company  D.  Henry  M. 
Mould,  of  Keeseville,  second  lieutenant  resigned  in  1863 
and  succeeded  by  Charles  W.  Wells,  who  was  promoted 
to  captaincy  of  Company  C,  and  came  home  in  command. 
Philip  Y.  N.  McLean  was  promoted  from  this  company  to 
second  lieutenant  Company  D.  Charles  E.  Pruyn  was 
adjutant  of  the  regiment  on  the  organization.  Patrick 
H.  Delany,  quarter  master;  John  K  Mooers,  surgeon, 
James  G.  Porteous,  assistant,  promoted  to  surgeon  in  Forty 
sixth,  and  Charles  L.  Hagar,  chaplain. 

The  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  regiment  entered 
the  service  with  an  aggregate  of  nine  hundred  and  eighty- 
three  men ;  it  was  reenforced  at  intervals,  by  three  hun 
dred  and  fifty  recruits,  but  returned  from  the  field  at 
the  expiration  of  its  term  with  only  three  hundred  and 
twenty-three  in  its  ranks,  embracing  both  officers  and  pri 
vates.  Immediately  upon  joining  the  army  the  regiment 
commenced  a  series  of  active  and  incessant  duties.  It 
formed  a  part  of  Peck's  force,  in  the  memorable  defense  of 
Suffolk,  and  was  employed  in  the  arduous  raids  along  the 


276  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Black  river.  It  was  warmly  engaged  through  two  days  and 
often  under  heavy  fire,  in  a  continued  skirmish  with  the 
rebel  sharp-shooters  near  Suffolk,  and  participated  in  the 
feint  upon  Richmond  in  June,  1863.  The  brigade  to  which 
the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  regiment  was  attached 
was  in  the  advance,  and  the  regiment  was  ordered  to  destroy 
parts  of  the  Richmond  and  Fredericksburg  rail  road. 
While  the  regiment  was  engaged  in  executing  this  service, 
two  companies,  A,  Captain  Norris,  and  F  in  the  absence 
from  severe  sickness  of  Captain  Livingstone  commanded 
by  Lieutenant  Cunningham,  were  advanced  as  skirmishers 
along  the  rail  road,  towards  the  South  Anna  river,  and  after 
cautiously  proceeding  about  one  mile  came  in  contact  with 
the  rebel  pickets.  The  command  continued  to  advance  in 
line  under  a  sharp  and  constant  fire,  the  enemy  slowly  re 
tiring,  and  speedily  in  addition  to  small  arms  they  opened  a 
fire  on  the  Union  troops  from  batteries  in  front  commanding 
the  line  of  the  rail  road  and  on  aflank.  The  companies  under 
this  concentrated  fire  were  compelled  to  retreat  and  fell  back 
in  order,  assuming  a  strong  position  in  a  wood,  behind  a 
ditch  with  an  open  field  in  front.  During  this  movement, 
Lieutenant  Cunningham  received  a  painful  wound  from  a 
spent  ball,  but  did  not  leave  the  field.  Major  Nichols 
soon  after  appeared  on  the  ground  with  two  fresh  compa 
nies,  D,  Captain  Riggs,  and  a  company  of  the  Ninety-ninth 
New  York.  These  companies  deployed  on  either  side, 
and  the  line  thus  formed  made  a  rapid  advance.  A  warm 
action  ensued  in  which  the  command  was  subjected  to  a 
heavy  fire  of  mingled  bullets,  shot  and  shells.  The  enemy 
were  at  length  driven  back  along  their  whole  front,  except 
at  one  point  in  their  position,  which  was  obstinately  main 
tained  and  appeared  to  be  fortified.  This  point,  which 
proved  to  be  a  breastwork  of  plank,  Lieutenant  W.  H. 
Stevenson  of  Company  F  proposed  to  capture;  and  calling 
for  volunteers  for  the  service,  selected  five  of  the  first  who 
offered.  He  rapidly  advanced  in  the  dark  behind  a  screen 
of  bushes,  which  flanked  the  rebel's  position  on  the  right, 
and  with  fixed  bayonets  and  loaded  guns  rushed  upon  the 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  277 

breastwork  with  a  wild  shout.  Although  surprised,  the 
enemy  attempted  a  resistance,  but  the  gallant  Stevenson 
killed  one  with  his  revolver,  wounded  a  second  and  cap 
tured  the  remainder  of  the  party  consisting  of  thirteen 
men,  who  were  brought  into  the  Federal  lines.  This  dash 
ing  exploit  initiated  the  brief  though  brilliant  career  of  the 
stripling  hero.  The  constancy  and  resolution  of  the  regi 
ment  was  first  tested  on  this  occasion,  and  the  conduct  of 
the  officers  engaged  and  the  steadiness  and  discipline  of 
the  troops  received  the  highest  encomiums. 

The  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  continued  attached 
to  the  column  of  the  James  until  the  spring  of  1864,  and 
was  engaged  in  operations  near  Norfolk  and  Bermuda  Hun 
dred.  It  composed  a  portion  of  Wistar's  command,  when 
it  advanced  to  Bottom's  Bridge  from  Williamsburg,  in 
an  attempt  upon  Richmond. 

It  at  this  time  constituted  a  part  of  the  second  brigade, 
first  division  of  the  eighteenth  corps.  General  "W.  F.  Smith 
commanded  the  corps,  Brooks  the  division,  and  Burnham 
the  brigade.  All  these  officers  were  eminently  distinguished 
by  their  fighting  qualities  and  high  reputation.  Early 
in  May,  the  army  marched  upon  the  ill-omened  expedition 
against  Fort  Darling  on  the  James,  which  was  terminated 
by  the  fatal  results  at  Drury's  Bluff.  The  march  from  the 
commencement  to  its  disastrous  issue,  was  a  constant  scene 
of  fighting  and  skirmishes.  On  the  tenth,  Companies  D, 
F,  and  K,  were  advanced  in  a  skirmishing  line,  the  last  held 
in  reserve,  while  the  remainder  of  the  regiment  was  de 
ployed.  The  coolness  and  bearing  of  Lieutenant  Stevenson 
of  F,  and  Kellogg  of  Company  D,  were  conspicuous,  and  the 
steadiness  of  the  whole  line  was  eminently  distinguished.1 

The  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth,  four  days  after,  cap 
tured  with  small  loss  a  series  of  rifle  pits,  redoubts  and 
batteries,  which  formed  a  strong  advance  line  of  the  enemy. 


1  The  firmness  and  constancy  of  the  skirmishing  line  drew  out  from  Burn- 
ham's  adj  utant  general,  the  emphatic  tribute  :  "  There  is  aline  the  rebels 
can't  break." 


278  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

This  work  from  the  form  of  its  construction  afforded  no 
protection  to  the  Federal  troops.  The  enemy  occupied  a 
short  distance  in  front,  far  more  formidable  works  mounted 
with  heavy  guns,  and  during  the  whole  day  the  second 
brigade  was  exposed  to  a  severe  fire  of  shells  from  this 
work.  One  of  the  missiles  crushed  the  head  of  Sergeant 
Place  of  Company  K,  a  brave  and  intelligent  soldier. 
Throughout  Sunday,  the  15th,  the  brigade  maintained  this 
exposed  position,  which  was  soon  to  acquire  a  dread  and 
bloody  prominence  in  one  of  the  darkest  pages  of  the 
war.  Heckman's  brigade,  lying  to  the  right  of  the  Second, 
formed  the  extreme  right  of  the  army  line.  Between 
Heckman's  brigade  and  the  James,  there  was  an  interval 
of  a  mile  in  length,  which  was  left  unoccupied,  except  by 
a  few  feeble  and  scattering  posts  of  colored  cavalry.  No 
entrenchments  had  been  constructed  either  in  front  of  the 
Union  lines  or  on  the  flank ;  excepting  such  as  were 
hastily  thrown  up,  under  the  direction  of  commanders  of 
particular  brigades  or  regiments.  The  ground  had  been 
previously  occupied  by  the  Confederates,  by  whom  scattered 
and  irregular  redoubts,  trenches  and  rifle  pits  were  con 
structed  ;  but  these  were  so  arranged  that  they  afforded  no 
protection  to  the  Union  troops  in  their  present  position. 
The  line  held  by  the  second  brigade,  stretched  along  a 
deep  excavation  which  had  been  made  by  the  rebels,  and 
at  this  time  was  filled  with  water.  A  standing  place  was 
formed  for  the  brigade,  by  levelling  a  narrow  space,  between 
this  ditch  and  the  embankment  created  by  the  earth  thrown 
up  in  its  construction.1  Slight  bridges  were  at  short  inter 
vals  thrown  across  the  Trench.  These  precautions  proved 
a  few  hours  later  of  infinite  importance.  The  embankment 
was  thus  converted  into  an  imperfect  defense,  which  in  the 
subsequent  action  afforded  great  protection  to  the  troops. 
General  Brooks  conceived  the  novel  and  happy  idea  of 


1  Contrary  to  the  prevailing  opinion  I  am  assured  by  an  officer  who  par 
ticipated  in  the  campaign  that  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth,  at  least 
was  supplied  with  entrenching  tools. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  279 

extending  a  telegraph  wire  in  front  of  the  brigade;  but 
unfortunately,  Heckman's  brigade  was  without  even  this 
feeble  protection,  and  lay  totally  exposed  to  the  assault  of 
a  vigilant  foe.1 

At  three  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  16th,  the  One 
Hundred  and  Eighteenth  was   aroused  and  at   its  post, 
in  conformity  to  special  orders,  or  its  established  practice. 
The  air  was  loaded  with  a  thick,  dank  fog,  which  the 
opening   dawn  but  slightly  dissipated.     As   sun-rise  ap 
proached,  the  advance  or  movement  of  troops  was  noticed 
in  front,  but  in  the  obscure  light,  the  color  of  their  uniform 
could  not  be  distinguished,  nor  their  evolutions   deter 
mined.      A  few  shots  from  Belger's  artillery,  in  front  of 
the  brigade,  were  thrown  into   the   ravine   along  which 
these  troops  were  advancing,  and  they  were  seen  to  halt 
and  lie  down.     A  staff  officer,  who  at  that  moment  ap 
peared    on   the   field,   pronouncing  them   to   be   federal 
pickets  retiring,  and  ordered  the  firing  to  cease.     Small 
white  flags  or  signals  were  distinctly  discerned,  waving 
in  the  mist,  and  voices  shouted  from  the  obscurity,  "  Don't 
fire  on  your  friends."     The  musketry  had  already  become 
sharp  on  the  right,  but  the  second  brigade  had  received 
no  orders  of  any  kind.     There  was  a   period  of  fearful 
suspense  and  hesitation.     Captain  Ramson  of  Company  I, 
unable  to  restrain  his  impatience,  leaped  upon  the  em 
bankment,  and  firing  his  revolver,  exclaimed  :    "  This  is 
my  reception  of  such  friends."     The  last  chamber  was 
scarcely  exploded,  when  he  fell,  pierced  by  a  ball  that 
passed  through  his  body,  and  shattered  an  arm.     Doubt 
no  longer  existed  of  the  character  or  purpose  of  these 
troops,  and  the   One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  instantly 
poured  a  volley  into  the  advancing  line.     The  front  rank 
of  the  enemy  now  rushing  impetuously  forward,  and  in 
the  dimness  of  the  light,  stumbled  over  the  wires,  and  those 
in  the  rear  pressing  after  them,  all  were  hurled  together 


'The  inspiration  I  have  imputed  to  General  Brooks  has  been  also  ascribed 
to  other  sources. 


280  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

in  a  promiscuous  mass ;  their  ranks  broken  and  thrown 
into  inextricable  disorder.  Many  of  the  enemy  involved 
in  this  confusion,  threw  down  their  arms  and  surrendered, 
and  were  sent  to  the  rear.  Up  to  this  point,  the  One 
Hundred  and  Eighteenth  had  achieved  a  success.  It  was 
vigilant,  and  the  contemplated  surprise  had  been  defeated ; 
but  Heckman's  brigade  was  surprised  and  nearly  flanked, 
from  the  undefended  space  on  its  right.  It  had  fallen 
back,  and  at  one  time  the  whole  brigade  were  prisoners ; 
but  in  the  tumult,  and  amid  the  dense  mist  and  smoke, 
escaped.  The  Eighth  Connecticut,  next  on  the  right  of 
the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth,  was  attacked  in  flank, 
doubled  up  and  disappeared  from  the  field.  The  One 
Hundred  and  Eighteenth  was  now  exposed  to  a  crushing 
fire  in  front  and  upon  the  right  flank.  The  extempora 
neous  traverses  which  it  had  constructed  at  this  crisis, 
were  most  effective,  affording  a  partial  protection,  and  for 
awhile  the  resistance  of  the  regiment  appeared  to  be  suc 
cessful  ;  but  it  was  enveloped  by  an  overwhelming  force, 
and  a  terrific  and  sanguinary  conflict  ensued.  In  this 
desperate  aspect  of  the  battle,  each  man  was  directed  to 
gain  the  rear  without  regard  to  discipline.  A  few  em 
braced  the  opportunity  to  retreat;  others  still  sustained 
the  fight,  while  the  wounded  implored  their  comrades  not 
to  abandon  them,  and  more  than  one  noble  life  was  sacri 
ficed  to  preserve  these  sufferers  from  the  horrid  calamities 
of  a  hostile  prison  house.  The  regiment  was  soon  after 
rallied,  and  made  a  gallant  stand  ;  but  was  compelled  to 
fall  back :  again  advanced  a  short  space,  and  ultimately 
retreated  in  order.  Captain  Dominy,  the  senior  officer, 
succeeded  to  the  temporary  command  of  the  regiment,  on 
the  disability  of  Colonel  Nichols. 

The  dire  aceldama  was  ennobled  by  deeds  of  daring 
heroism,  and  instances  of  exalted  devotion.  An  intrepid 
young  lieutenant,  Henry  J.  Adams,  of  Elizabethtown,  at 
the  moment  the  regiment  was  breaking,  seized  a  standard, 
and  shouting  the  words  so  familiar  to  scenes  of  home  and 
festive  joy  ousuess :  "  Rally  round  the  flag,  boys,"  attempted 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  281 

to  arrest  the  retreat,  and  essentially  aided  in  rallying  the 
troops.  Captain  Robert  W.  Livingstone  of  Company  F, 
early  in  the  action,  moved  from  the  cover  of  the  embank 
ment  in  order  to  communicate  with  Colonel  Nichols,  and 
while  standing  a  moment  exposed,  was  struck  down  by  a 
frightful  wound  in  the  shoulder.  His  gallant  young  lieu- 
tenent,  W.  H.  Stevenson,  who  was  behind  an  embankment 
and  in  a  situation  comparatively  secure,  saw  him  fall,  and 
calling  on  the  men  to  bring  in  their  captain,  rushed  out 
to  Livingstone's  assistance,  accompanied  by  four  of  the 
company.  Livingstone  admonished  them  of  the  great  ex 
posure  they  incurred,  and  urged  that  he  might  be  left;  but 
Stevenson  persisted  in  his  generous  purpose,  and  in  a 
moment  after  fell  dead  at  his  commander's  side,  a  sacrifice 
to  duty  and  friendship.  Two  of  the  brave  men1  were  pro 
strated  by  wounds,  were  captured  and  died  in  southern 
prisons.  Livingstone,  as  he  was  borne  from  the  field,  was 
struck  by  another  shot,  that  terribly  lacerated  his  foot 
and  leg.  He  languished  in  great  suffering  fourteen  months 
in  a  hospital,  before  his  severe  wounds  permitted  a  return 
to  his  home,  a  mutilated  and  disabled  soldier.2 

The  regiment  was  not  pursued  by  the  severely  punished 
enemy  and  was  immediately  rallied  by  its  own  officers.  It 
maintained  a  bold  and  defiant  attitude  until  most  of  its 
wounded  were  borne  from  the  field.  In  that  conflict, 
scarcely  extending  over  the  space  of  half  an  hour,  the 
One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  out  of  the  three  hundred 
and  fifty  men  engaged  lost  one  hundred  and  ninety-eight 
privates  and  thirteen  officers  in  killed,  wounded  and 
prisoners.  Amid  all  these  disasters  and  sacrifices,  the 
regiment  had  captured  and  secured  two  hundred  prisoners, 


1  George  Miller  and  William  Huff.  Their  names  are  worthy  of  commem- 
moration. 

a  Captain  Livingstone  gives  utterance  to  this  just  and  feeling  tribute  to 
the  memory  of  Stevenson :  "  No  more  gallant  and  generous  spirit  was 
offered  among  the  victims  of  the  war."  No  praise  of  Lieutenant  Stevenson — 
his  gallant  ardor — his  dash — his  generous  friendship,  can  be  misplaced. — 
Major  Livingstone's  Letter. 


282  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

a  greater  number  than  it  retained  men  fit  for  duty. 
Among  the  killed  on  this  fatal  day  was  Captain  John  S. 
Stone  of  Company  K1  Lieutenant  Stevenson  was  killed 
and  Lieutenant  Edgar  A.  Wing,  Company  E,  a  youth  of 
high  promise  who  had  joined  the  company  only  a  few  days 
before,  was  mortally  wounded,  taken  prisoner  and  died  the 
next  day.  Lieutenant  Colonel  Nichols  was  slightly  wounded 
in  the  side  and  hand,  from  which  his  sword  was  stricken  by 
a  shot;  and  his  clothing,  as  was  that  of  several  other  officers, 
was  riddled  by  bullets.  Adjutant  John  M.  Carter  lost  an 
arm  and  was  captured  ;  Captain  Livingstone  and  Eansom 
were  severely  wounded ;  Lieutenants  Treadway  and  Sher 
man  were  wounded,  and  Captain  Dennis  Stone,  Company 
A,  and  James  H.  Pierce,  Company  C,  taken  prisoners.  The 
army  on  the  same  day  fell  back  to  Bermuda  Hundred  and 
fortified ;  but  the  stricken  and  fragmentary  One  Hundred  and 
Eighteenth  were  exempted  from  the  toil  of  entrenching. 

On  the  29th  of  May  the  eighteenth  corps,  embracing  the 
One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth,  embarked  in  transports,  and 
passing  down  the  James,  ascended  the  Pamunky  and 
landed  at  the  White  House.  Directly  upon  disembarking 
it  was  rushed  to  the  front,  and  on  the  1st  of  June  joined 
the  army  of  the  Potomac.  On  that  day  near  Coal  Harbor 
commenced  a  battle  which  continued  until  the  3d,  and  was 
one  of  the  most  severely  contested  and  sanguinary  engage 
ments  of  the  war;  but  its  incidents  and  results  have  been 
singularly  veiled  from  the  public  eye.  The  Eighteenth 
corps  occupied  a  position  in  front  of  the  Union  army.  The 
One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  was  engaged  in  the  bloody 
scenes  of  these  conflicts,  but  not  unconnected  with  its  corps. 
Its  casualties  were  extremely  severe.  At  times  exposed  to 
a  heavy  fire  in  front  and  enfiladed  by  a  battery  and  rifle 

1  Captain  Stone,  before  entering  the  army,  was  pastor  of  the  Presbyterian 
church  at  Au  Sable  Forks.  Although  singularly  modest  and  retiring  in  his 
habits,  he  was  disposed  from  the  impulses  of  duty  to  engage  in  the  conflict, 
and  when  a  large  number  of  the  intelligent  and  energetic  youth  of  the 
vicinity  offered  to  enlist  under  his  command,  he  freely  and  promptly  offered 
his  services  to  the  country. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  283 

pits,  to  escape  annihilation  the  troops  were  compelled  to 
lie  prone  upon  the  earth,  while  a  tempest  of  minie  balls, 
shot  and  shells,  hurtled  just  above  them.  The  dead  could 
neither  be  removed  nor  buried,  and  their  corpses  were  thrown 
upon  the  breastwork,  with  a  slight  covering  of  earth  strewn 
upon  them,  and  thus  their  decaying  bodies  aided  to  form  a 
bulwark  for  the  protection  of  their  living  comrades.  The 
taint  from  the  decomposing  mass  became  almost  insuffera 
ble,  before  the  corps  was  withdrawn  from  the  trenches.1 
The  sufferings  of  the  regiment  through  the  trying  ordeal  of 
those  eight  days  were  extreme.  It  lost  at  Coal  Harbor 
seventy  men  and  officers.  Among  the  casualties  were 
Lieutenant  Michael  Reynolds  of  Company  A,  killed,  and 
Captain  Jacob  Parmerter  of  Company  E  severely  wounded 
with  the  loss  of  a  leg. 

An  impregnable  line  in  front  arrested  all  advance  by  the 
Union  army,  but  the  enemy  was  held  in  an  equally  tenacious 
and  unyielding  grasp.  The  eighteenth  corps  sustained  its 
exposed  position,  and  in  the  end  formed  a  curtain  behind 
which,  on  the  12th,  General  Grant  accomplished  his  perilous 
and  memorable  flank  movement  which  effected  the  change 
of  his  base.  When  this  bold  and  remarkable  operation  had 
been  accomplished,  the  Eighteenth,  also,  hastily  abandoned 
its  entrenchments  and  fell  back  unopposed  to  White  House, 
and  returned  to  its  previous  field  of  duty.  On  the  15th  of 
June,  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  was  engaged  in  the 
attack  on  Petersburg.  Here  it  suffered  a  heavy  loss  in  the 
death  of  Major  Charles  E.  Pruyn,  who  was  in  temporary 
command  of  the  regiment.  While  standing  in  an  exposed 
position,  and  in  the  act  of  surveying  the  works  he  was  pre 
paring  to  assault,  he  was  struck  and  horribly  mutilated  by 
a  shell.  He  had  acted  as  adjutant  in  the  organization  of 
the  regiment,  and  its  singular  proficiency  and  high  disci- 

1  An  intelligent  and  gallant  officer  who  was  present  in  some  of  the  most 
severe  battles  of  the  war,  said  to  me  that  the  terrible  fighting  at  Coal  Har 
bor  "  far  exceeded  anything  he  had  witnessed ;  that  the  field  was  literally 
swept  by  the  storm  of  bullets,  and  that  a  hat  raised  a  short  space  from  the 
ground  would  instantly  be  riddled  by  balls." 


284  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

pline  were  chiefly  imputed  to  the  skill  and  assiduity  of  his 
services,  sustained  by  the  field  officers  preeminently  by  the 
military  attainments  and  persistent  zeal  of  Colonel  Keese.1 
Lieutenant  Rowland  C.  Kellogg  was  also  wounded  by  the 
explosion  of  a  shell.  Captain  Levi  S.  Dominy  of  Company 
B  succeeded  to  the  immediate  command  of  the  regiment. 

The  fierce  and  protracted  siege  of  Petersburg  exacted 
from  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  the  most  arduous 
and  exhaustive  duties.  Night  succeeded  the  day,  days 
rolled  into  weeks,  and  the  weeks  formed  months,  but  their 
toils  had  no  mitigation,  while  their  endurance  and  dangers 
were  perpetual.  Now  exposed  to  the  burning  sun  and 
breathing  the  arid  sand,  and  now  struggling  in  mud  and 
water ;  often  suffering  for  drink,  seldom  able  to  wash,  and 
never  changing  their  clothing  for  rest.  Constantly  shelled 
and  frequently  enfiladed  by  new  batteries ;  burrowing  in 
the  earth  to  escape  projectiles,  against  which  ordinary 
entrenchments  afforded  no  protection,  the  troops  were 
yet  joyous,  patient,  enduring  and  full  of  hope.  Amid 
all  these  exposures  and  suffering,  after  it  had  recovered 
from  an  almost  universal  prostration  by  chills  and  fever  at 
Gloucester  point,  and  although  moving  in  a  malarious 
region,  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  was  always 
vigorous  and  healthy.  The  rigorous  ordeal  to  which  it 
was  now  subjected,  continued  with  brief  relief  until  the 
29th  of  July,  when  the  regiment  was  withdrawn  to  aid  in 
the  support  of  the  storming  column,  which  was  designed 
to  assail  the  enemy's  works,  on  the  explosion  of  the  long 
projected  mine.  They  witnessed  in  sadness  and  humilia 
tion  the  disastrous  failure  of  that  magnificent  experiment. 
On  the  27th  of  August,  after  a  term  of  two  months,  the 
second  brigade  was  relieved  from  its  arduous  trench 
duties.  During  the  long  period  of  one  hundred  and  thir- 

1  Major  Pruyn  had  been  first  lieutenant  in  the  Ninety-seventh,  but  resigned 
and  became  attached  to  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth.  In  the  summer 
of  1863  he  was  appointed  major,  on  the  recommendation  of  a  large  part  of 
the  line  officers  of  the  regiment,  a  majority  of  whom  held  senior  rank. — 
Major  Livingstone's  letter. 


T  - 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  285 

teen  days,  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  had  marched 
and  toiled,  and  endured,  with  no  enjoyment  of  quiet  repose, 
and  almost  incessantly  subjected  to  the  fire  of  the  enemy. 
A  single  month,  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  was 
permitted  to  repose,  after  its  prolonged  and  severe  service, 
in  a  pleasant  encampment  near  the  southern  banks  of  the 
James.     In  that  interval,  the  Ninety-sixth  had  been  attached 
to  the  second  brigade.     This  brigade,  by  the  proficiency  of 
its  drill,  its  exact  discipline,  and  general  efficiency,  had  be 
come  conspicuous  and  universally  esteemed  second  to  no 
other  in  its  distinguished  corps.     On  the  27th  September, 
every   indication   presaged   the   renewal   of   active   duty. 
Rations   for  two  days  were  ordered  to  be  prepared.     An 
unusual  earnestness  and  activity  were  manifested  by  the 
generals  and  their  staffs.     The  next  night,  the  tattoo,  sug 
gestive  of  repose,  had  scarcely  sounded,  when  the  brigade 
was  ordered  to  move  promptly  and  in  profound  silence^ 
leaving  their  tents  standing.     Previous  to  breaking  camp, 
the  One    Hundred  and  Eighteenth  and  the   Tenth  New 
Hampshire  had  by  a  special  order  exchanged  their  Enfield 
guns  for  the  Spencer  repeating  rifle,  a  tremendous  weapon 
in  the  hands  of  resolute  and  expert  marksmen.     This  selec 
tion  by  the  corps  commander  was  a  distinguished  recogni 
tion  of  the  efficiency  of  the  preferred  regiments.     At  three 
o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  29th,  the  division  led  by  the 
second  brigade,  was  passing  over  the  James  upon  a  pontoon 
bridge,  which  had  been   completed  the  same  hour.     The 
sound  of  the  movement  was  suppressed  by  earth  or  other  sub 
stances  strewn  upon  the  bridge.    On  reaching  the  north  bank 
of  the  river,  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  and  Tenth 
New  Hampshire  were  thrown  out  as  skirmishers  and  flank 
ers,  while  the  remainder  of  the  command  was  advanced 
along  the  road  in  column.     Soon  after  daybreak  a  brisk 
fire  was  opened  by  the  enemy's  pickets  which  fell  back  on 
their    reserves,  and  the   whole  were  forced  rapidly  back 
through  a  dense  wood,  for  the  distance  of  more  than  two 
miles,  when  the  Union  column  entered  upon  open  ground. 
A   strong   earth   work   was  now  revealed   in   front,  and 


286  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

mounted  with  heavy  guns.  This  formidable  work,  was 
Fort  or  rather  Battery  Harrison,  and  General  Stannard 
instantly  ordered  Burnham  to  take  it  by  assault.  The 
Mnety-sixth  and  Eighth  Connecticut  forming  the  storm 
ing  column  were  supported  by  the  First  and  Third  bri 
gade  of  the  division  with  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth 
New  York,  and  Twelfth  New  Hampshire  as  skirmishers 
on  their  flank.  The  column  rushed  impetuously  forward, 
along  the  open  space,  met  by  a  furious  plunging  fire  from 
the  enemy's  lines.  When  it  reached,  after  this  rapid 
advance  along  a  distance  of  nearly  three-fourths  of  a  mile, 
the  base  of  the  eminence  upon  which  the  works  were 
erected,  the  column  breathless  and  exhausted,  paused  in  a 
position  comparatively  protected.  As  we  have  already 
seen,  the  enemy  was  hastening  reenforcements  to  the  point 
of  attack,  and  the  commander  both  of  the  division  and 
brigade,  alarmed  at  the  posture  of  affairs,  sent  a  mem 
ber  of  his  staff  to  order  an  instant  assault.  Lieutenant 
George  F.  Campbell,  Company  C,  One  Hundred  and 
Eighteenth,  aid  to  General  Burnham,  dashed  across  the 
plains  exposed  to  the  whole  range  of  .the  enemy's  fire  and 
unhurt  communicated  the  order.  In  the  strong  tribute  of 
the  official  address,  this  was  pronounced  a  most  gallant 
act.  The  two  regiments  impetuously  scaled  the  hill, 
mounted  the  parapet,  and  their  gallant  color-bearers  planted 
simultaneously  their  flags  upon  the  works.  The  enemy 
precipitately  abandoned  the  lines,  falling  back  to  other 
works,  while  their  own  guns  were  turned  upon  them,  with 
deadly  effect.  In  the  act  of  training  one  of  these  guns 
upon  the  fugitives,  General  Burnham  was  mortally 
wounded  and  died  in  a  few  minutes  after. 

While  these  events  were  in  progress  in  the  centre,  the 
skirmishing  support  had  approached  the  fort,  and  used 
their  terrible  rifles  in  picking  off  the  gunners  in  the  works, 
and  demoralizing  the  defense.  Lieutenant-colonel  Ni 
chols,  with  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth,  after  being 
distinguished  "  for  his  cool  conduct  of  the  skirmish  lines 
in  the  general  assault,  captured  two  redoubts  on  the  right 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  287 

of  the  fort,  during  the  main  assault.  Lieutenants  N.  J, 
Gibbs  and  H.  J.  Adams,  were  the  first  men  in  the  redoubts, 
and  promptly  turned  the  captured  guns  upon  the  retreat 
ing  enemy.  Surgeon  F.  G.  Porteous,  of  the  One  Hun 
dred  and  Eighteenth,  was  officially  noticed  with  strong 
recommendations  for  bravery  and  attention  to  duties, 
being  the  only  surgeon  in  the  brigade,  advancing  with 
his  regiment  in  the  charging  column." l  The  second 
brigade  now  moved  upon  two  entrenchments  in  front, 
and  captured  them  successfully,  driving  the  enemy  back 
upon  their  third  and  last  defense  on  this  line  of  works. 
Fort  Harrison  had  thus  been  snatched  from  the  jaws  of 
the  Confederate  army,  which  lay  in  great  force  immedi 
ately  contiguous,  and  was  too  important  a  position  to  be 
relinquished  without  a  desperate  struggle.  The  last  line 
captured  by  the  Union  troops  was  exposed  to  the  fire  of 
the  enemy's  gun-boats  and  to  assault,  and  it  was  deemed 
expedient  to  fall  back  upon  Fort  Harrison.  The  enemy 
vigorously  pursued,  and  in  this  movement  both  Colonel 
Donohoe  and  Lieutenant-colonel  Mchols  were  severely 
wounded.  The  night  and  the  succeeding  morning  were 
assiduously  employed  in  extending  and  strengthening  the 
works,  which  now  acquired  the  form  and  strength  of  an 
enclosed  fortification.  A  second  and  third  time  the  onset 
was  repeated,  and  met  in  the  same  courageous  spirit,  and 
with  similar  results.  On  the  last  assault,  those  of  the 
assailants  who  survived  the  withering  fire  of  the  federal 
troops,  threw  down  their  arms  and  surrendered.  About 
noon  the  next  day,  rebel  troops  had  been  massed  in  three 
heavy  columns,  and  covered  by  two  batteries,  rushed  upon 
the  new  federal  lines  with  heroic  impetuosity.  The  One 
Hundred  and  Eighteenth  and  Tenth  New  Hampshire 
were  stationed  at  salient  points  in  the  works,  and  the 
fatal  power  of  their  new  weapons  was  frightfully  demon- 

1  These  notices  of  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth,  I  extract  from  the 
address  of  General  Butler  to  the  army  of  the  James.  He  also  refers  with 
warm  approbation  to  the  conduct  of  Corporal -Michael  Finnigan,  and  Pri 
vate  Frank  Jandrew,  of  the  regiment. 


288  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

strated  upon  the  Confederate  ranks.  Gun-boats  were 
constantly,  but  with  trifling  effect,  shelling  the  Union 
position.  This  formidable  assault  was  repulsed  by  mus 
ketry  alone,  and  the  rebels  falling  back  to  cover,  aban 
doned  their  numerous  dead  and  wounded  upon  the  field. 

In  the  critical  period  between  the  two  first  assaults,  a 
gallant  act  occurred  that  reflected  the  highest  credit  upon 
the  bravery  and  zeal  of  Captain  Brydon  of  the  One  Hun 
dred  and  Eighteenth.1  Twenty-two  pieces  of  cannon, 
several  battle  flags  and  numerous  prisoners  were  among 
the  results  of  this  enterprise  which  secured  to  the  Union 
army  an  important  position  that  was  never  relinquished. 
The  confederate  loss  was  known  to  be  very  large.  Cling- 
man's  North  Carolina  brigade  was  almost  annihilated.  The 
federal  loss  amounted  to  nearly  one-fifth  of  their  combat 
ants  engaged.  Besides  Lieutenant  Colonel  Nichols,  Cap 
tain  Dobie  and  Lieutenant  Treadway  of  the  One  Hundred 
and  Eighteenth  were  wounded. 

The  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  moved  with  its  division 
from  the  quarters  near  Fort  Burnham  where  it  had  re 
mained  since  the  capture  of  that  work,  on  the  26th  of 
October,  to  a  position  within  about  three  miles  of  Fort 
Richmond,  erected  on  the  former  battle  ground  of  Fair 
Oaks,  The  regiment  at  that  time  was  composed  of  two 
hundred  and  five  men  for  duty  including  supernumeraries. 
At  dawn  the  succeeding  morning  it  advanced.  That  part 
of  the  regiment  embracing  more  than  half  which  was 


1 "  Finding  that  my  ammunition  was  getting  low  —  I  had  a  few  minutes 
before  sent  a  staff  officer  with  orders  to  bring  up  a  wagon  from  my  ord 
nance  train :  the  wagon  came  just  at  the  right  time,  during  the  second  as 
sault,  and  was  driven  up  to  the  sally-port  of  the  fort  by  Captain  John 
Brydon,  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  New  York  Volunteers,  A.  0.  0.,  of 
the  division,  and  kept  there  until  the  action  was  concluded.  It  was  in  full 
view  and  but  short  musket  range  from  the  enemy,  yet  Captain  Brydon  gal 
lantly  held  his  mules,  three  of  which  were  killed  and  three  wounded  while 
he  was  thus  occupied,  while  Lieutenants  Burbank  and  Cook  of  my  staff  dis 
tributed  the  ammunition  to  the  command." —  General  Stannard's  Report. 
For  this  gallant  feat  Captain  Brydon  received  from  the  governor,  with  words 
of  warm  encomium,  the  brevet  of  major. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  289 

armed  with  Spencer  rifles,  was  thrown  in  front  as  skir 
mishers,  and  the  remainder  held  in  reserve.  Passing  a 
covert  of  woods,  the  skirmishers  entered  upon  a  cleared 
field,  which  extended  to  the  fort  a  distance  of  about  one- 
fourth  of  a  mile.  Over  this  space,  they  made  a  rush  upon 
the  work,  in  the  face  of  a  terrible  fire,  and  succeeded  in 
approaching  it  within  about  one  hundred  yards.  The 
enemy's  lines  at  this  moment  were  only  slightly  manned, 
but  the  entrenchment  was  heavy  and  formidable,  and  wholly 
unassailable  by  the  feeble  skirmishing  force.  Major 
Dominy,  an  officer  conspicuous  for  his  fighting  qualities, 
commanded  the  regiment,  and  at  this  time  passed  an  order 
for  the  troops  to  lie  down,  seeking  any  cover  that  presented 
itself,  for  protection  against  the  irresistible  tempest  of  shot 
and  balls  that  was  hurled  upon  them.  Soon  after,  they 
were  directed  to  fall  back  singly  to  an  excavation  on  a  road 
in  the  rear.  The  regiment  made  no  further  advance,  but 
after  the  repulse  of  the  assaulting  column  mentioned  in  the 
notice  of  the  Ninety-sixth  regiment,  retreated  to  its  former 
encampment. 

The  losses  of  the  regiment  were  greater  in  proportion 
to  its  strength  than  on  any  previous  occasion.  The  skir 
mishing  party  entered  into  action  with  nine  officers :  three 
of  these,  Major  Dominy,  Lieutenants  McLean  and  Gibbs 
returned  in  safety,  but  Captain  J.  R.  Seaman,  Company  A, 
was  seriously  wounded.  Lieutenant  M.  J.  Dickinson  was 
wounded  and  taken  prisoner,  with  Lieutenants  Saunders, 
Potter,  O'Connor,  and  Bryant.  Captain  M.  Y.  B.  Stetson 
in  the  reserve  was  also  wounded  while  aiding  to  remove 
Colonel  Moffitt  of  the  Ninety-fifth  from  the  field.  When 
the  regiment  reached  its  former  quarters,  scarcely  forty  men 
had  gathered  to  its  standard,  but  others  returned  until  the 
aggregate  was  increased  to  nearly  one-half  the  number  who 
had  marched  out  the  day  preceding.  The  One  Hundred  and 
Eighteenth  remained  in  camp  through  the  winter,  and  on  the 
march  upon  Richmond  the  ensuing  spring,  its  relics  were 
engaged  on  picket  duty  and  advanced  as  skirmishers,  cover 
ing  the  third  division  of  the  twenty-fourth  corps.  It  was 
19 


290  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

the  first  organized  Federal  regiment  that  entered  Richmond. 
The  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  bore  the  noble  inscription 
upon  its  national  flag  :  "  Suffolk  —  South  Anna  —  Coal 
Harbor—  Fort  Harrison—  Bermuda—  Swift  Creek—  Peters 
burg  —  Fair  Oaks  —  Drury's  Bluff—  Crater  —  Richmond." 
This  attests  its  military  glory,  but  its  high  moral  quali 
ties  are  still  more  illustrated  by  the  remarkable  fact,  that 
not  a  single  member  of  the  regiment  was  known  to  have 
deserted  to  the  enemy.  In  more  authoritative  language 
than  I  can  use,  General  Devens,in  recapitulating  its  services, 
pronounces  this  eulogium  upon  the  One  Hundred  and  Eigh 
teenth  at  Drury's  Bluff:  "  This  regiment  distinguished  itself 
for  great  valor  and  pertinacity,  and  won  the  reputation  it  has 
since  enjoyed,  of  being  one  of  the  most  resolute  regiments  in 
the  service."  He  adds  :  "  With  this  weapon  (the  Spencer  rifle) 
they  will  return  to  your  state  armed,  and  it  is  a  most  appro 
priate  testimonial  of  their  efficiency."  l  I  have  been  guided 
essentially  in  the  brief  survey  of  the  operations  of  the  One 
Hundred  and  Eighteenth  by  official  documents.  I  owe  my 
acknowledgments,  also,  to  a  series  of  articles  first  published 
in  the  Glen's  Falls  Republican  as  to  other  authentic  newspaper 
correspondences,  but  particularly  to  officers  of  the  regiment 
from  whom  I  have  derived  the  most  valuable  information; 
among  these  I  may  enumerate  Colonel  Mchols,  Majors 
Livingstone  and  Brydon,  and  Lieutenant  McLean. 

Officers  of  the  One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  Reyimcnt,  when  mus 
tered  out  of  the  service,  June  13fA,  1865. 


Col.   George   F.  Nichols,  brevet  Q.  M.  Henry  J.  Northrup,  brevet 

General  U.  S.  V.  Captain  N.  Y.  V. 

Lt.  Col.  Levi  S.  Dominy,  brevet  Company  A. 

Col.  N.  Y.  V.  Capt.  Joseph  R.  Seaman,  brevet 

Major    John    L.    Cunningham,  Major  U.  S.  V. 

brevet  Lt.  Col.  U.  S.  V.  1st  Lt.  J.  W.  Treadway,  brevet 

Surgeon  William  0.  Mansfield.  Captain  N.  Y.  V.,  from  Co.  E. 

Asst.  Surg.  J.  C.  Preston.  Company  B. 

Chaplain  Charles  L.  Hagar.  Capt.  George  F.  Campbell,  brevet 

Adjutant  Clifford  Hubbard.  Major.  N.  Y.  V.,  from  Co.  C. 

1  General  Devens  to  Governor  Fenton. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY. 


291 


1st  Lt.  Jas.  A.  Garrett,  brevet 
Captain  N.  Y.  V.,  from  Co.  A. 

2d  Lt.  Merril  Perry,  brevet  Cap 
tain  N.  Y.  V.,  from  Co.  A. 
Company  C. 

Capt.  C.  W.  Wells,  brevet  Major 
N.  Y.  V.,  from  Co.  K. 

1st  Lt.  L.  S.  Bryant. 

2d  Lt.  N.  H.  Arnold,  from  Co.  E. 
Company  D. 

Capt.  John  W.  Angell,  from  Co. 
E. 

2d  Lt.   Philip   V.   N.   McLean, 
from  Co.  K. 

Company  E. 

Capt.    Henry   S.    Graves,    from 
Co.  I. 

1st  Lt.  George  H.  Potter,  from 
Co.  A. 

2d  Lt.  William  T.  Bidwell,  late 
Hospital  Steward. 
Company  F. 

Capt.    Robert    W.    Livingstone, 
brevet  Major  N.  Y.  V. 


1st  Lt.  Daniel  0.  Connor,  Asst. 

Hospital  Steward. 
2d  Lt.  Charles  A.  Grace,  from 

Co.  A. 

Company  G. 
1st  Lt.  James  H.  Pitt,  from  Co. 

H. 

Company  H. 
Capt.    David    F.   Dobie,   brevet 

Major  N.  Y.  V. 
1st  Lt.  F.  Saunders. 

Company  1. 
Capt.    Martin    Y.    B.    Stetson, 

Major  N.  Y.  V. 
1st  Lt.  Nelson  J.  Gibbs,  brevet 

Captain   N.  Y.  Y.,   from   Co. 

F. 

Company  K. 
Capt.  John  Brydon,  brevet  Major 

N.  Y.  V. 
1st  Lt.  John  W.  Calkins,  from 

Co.  K. 
2d    Lt.   George  Vaughan,   from 

Co.  I. 


Officers  connected  with  Essex  County  Troops  who  resigned  or  were 

discharged. 

Samuel  T.  Richards,  Col.,  July  rick,  discharged  February  14, 

8th,  1863.  1863. 

Colonel,   Oliver   Keese,   Jr..  re-  Jacob      Parmerter,      discharged 

signed  Sept.  14,  1864.  Nov.  15,  1864. 

Captain  James   H.  Peirce,    dis-  1st  Lieutenant  John  S.  Boynton, 

charged  Feb.  9,  1865.  resigned  March  12, 1864. 

1st  Lieutenant  Nathan  S.  Wash-  1st    Lieutenant    Sam    Sherman, 

burn,  discharged  February  14,  discharged  Oct.  19,  1864. 

1863.  2d  Lieutenant  Henry  M.  Mould, 

2d  Lieutenant  George    M.   But-  resigned  Aug.  1,  1863. 

Brevet  Commissions  issued  by  the  Governor  to  Enlisted  Men  of  this 

Regiment. 

Sergeant  Cass   C.  La  Point,  2d     Sergeant  Major  Ashley  S.  Prime, 
lieutenant.  2d  lieutenant. 


292  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Sergeant    Joseph    A.    Hastings,     Sergeant  Freeman   D.   Lindsay, 
2d  lieutenant.  2d  lieutenant. 

Enlisted  Men  of  this  Reyiment  to  whom  Medals  of  Honor  have  been 
awarded  by  the  Secretary  of  War. 

Private  Franklin  Jandro. 

The  One  Hundred  and  Fifty-third  Regiment  N.  Y.  Volunteers. 

This  regiment  was  recruited  from  various  sections  of 
the  state,  and  mustered  into  service  October,  1862.  Tho 
mas  Armstrong  of  Clinton  county  received  the  appoint 
ment  of  lieutenant-colonel  at  its  organization,  and  resigned 
February,  1863.  A  large  part  of  a  company  which  was 
attached  to  the  One  Hundred  and  Fifty-third  as  Company 
I,  was  enrolled  by  John  F.  McGuire  of  Keeseville,  from 
Clinton  and  Essex  counties,  and  in  it  he  was  appointed 
second  lieutenant.  By  the  successive  resignations  of  the 
superior  officers  he  was  promoted  in  December,  1863,  to 
the  command  of  the  company.  The  regiment  immediately 
after  its  organization  was  ordered  to  Alexandria,  and  sub 
sequently  at  Washington  was  employed  in  provost  duty. 
Company  I  was  specially  detached  in  that  service.  Early 
in  1864  the  One  Hundred  and  Fifty-third  was  transferred 
to  Louisiana  and  incorporated  with  the  nineteenth  array 
corps.  It  was  engaged  in  the  Red  river  expedition  and 
participated  in  all  the  hardships  and  disasters  of  that  cam 
paign.  When  the  Union  forces,  after  the  battle  of  Sabine 
Cross  Roads,  fell  back,  Company  I  was  the  rear  company 
in  the  retreat  of  the  army.  The  nineteenth  corps  sailed 
from  New  Orleans  on  the  3d  of  July,  with  sealed  orders ; 
but  its  destination  proved  to  be  the  Chesapeake.  The 
One  Hundred  and  Fifty-third  and  four  companies  belong 
ing  to  other  regiments,  the  advance  of  the  corps,  on  their 
arrival  at  Fortress  Monroe,  were  instantly  ordered,  with 
out  disembarking,  to  the  defense  of  Washington,  then 
menaced  by  Early's  incursion.  These  troops  were  has 
tened  through  the  city  amid  the  deep  excitement  and 
alarm  of  the  people,  to  a  position  at  Fort  Stevens,  where 
they  went  into  immediate  action.  After  the  repulse  of  the 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  293 

rebels,  the  One  Hundred  and  Fifty-third  joined  in  their 
pursuit  across  the  Potomac  into  the  Shenandoah  valley, 
but  was  suddenly  recalled  to  the  vicinity  of  the  capital  to 
oppose  another  apprehended  advance  of  the  enemy.  The 
regiment  was  soon  after  engaged  in  the  battle  of  Winches 
ter,  and  Company  I  here  sustained  some  slight  casualties  . 
It  participated  in  the  engagement  at  Fisher  Hill  and  in 
the  pursuit  of  the  Confederates  from  that  field. 

The  Nineteenth  corps  was  at  Cedar  Creek  and  suffered 
heavy  losses  incident  to  the  surprise  and  early  catastrophies 
of  that  eventful  day.  The  One  Hundred  and  Fifty- 
third  formed  part  of  the  picket  line  that  enveloped 
Washington  after  the  assassination  of  Mr.  Lincoln,  and 
discharged  guard  duty  at  the  arsenal  on  the  military  trials 
that  succeeded.  In  June,  1865,  the  regiment  was  ordered 
to  Savannah,  where  it  performed  provost  duty  until  its 
discharge.  Captain  McGruire  of  Company  I,  brevet  ma 
jor  !N".  Y.  V.,  during  that  service  acted  as  adjutant  provost 
marshal  of  the  city.  In  the  succeeding  October,  the  One 
Hundred  and  Fifty-third  was  disbanded  at  Albany. 

Brevet  commissions  issued  to  enlisted  men  of  this  regiment. 

Sergeant  James  C.  Bullock,  2d  lieutenant. 
Private  Melchior  H.  Hoffnagle,  2d  lieutenant. 

The  Second  New   York  Cavalry. 

The  last  organized  company  in  Essex  county  was  en 
rolled  in  Ticonderoga  in  the  summer  of  1864,  of  which 
William  H.  Sanger  was  appointed  captain,  James  McCor- 
mick  first,  and  George  B.  Coates,  second  lieutenant,  each 
on  the  8th  of  September,  1864.  They  had  both  belonged  to 
the  Thirty-fourth  ~New  York  Volunteers.  It  was  attached 
to  the  Second  New  York  Cavalry  as  Company  E,1  with  the 
army  of  Sheridan,  and  performed  excellent  services  in  the 
Shenandoah  valley,  attended  him  in  the  perilous  march  to 

1  When  the  original  members  were  mustered  out,  and  the  veterans  and 
recruits  were  organized  into  four  new  companies. 


294  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

the  James,  and  was  engaged  with  his  command  in  the  bat 
tles  that  preceded  the  surrender  of  Lee.  This  regiment 
was  ultimately  associated  with  the  Fifth  in  the  achievements 
of  the  Shenandoah  campaign.  Lieutenants  McCormick 
and  Coates  were  both  wounded,  the  former  very  seriously 
at  the  battle  of  Cedar  Creek.  Lieutenant  McCormick  was 
discharged  May  1st,  1865.  Coates  wns  promoted  to  first 
lieutenant  but  not  mustered  in  as  such,  and  remained  with 
the  regiment  until  it  was  disbanded  June  5th,  1865.  Cap 
tain  Sanger  was  made  brevet-major  New  York  State 
Volunteers  and  discharged  May  15th,  1865. 

Medals  of  Honor  were  awarded  to  the  following  enlisted  men: 
Frank  Miller.  J.  S.  Calkins. 

List  of  brevet  commissions,  second  lieutenant  issued  to  enlisted  men. 

Private  John  J.  Morse.        Private  Burnet  Galloway. 

Sergeant  Fred.  A.  M.  Ball. 

An  approximation  only  can  be  reached  of  the  number 
of  troops  contributed  by  Essex  county  to  the  Union  army. 
The  official  military  records  and  the  census  returns  which 
are  known  to  be  imperfect,  are  far  below  the  reality,  ex 
hibits  a  total  of  one  thousand  and  three  hundred  arid  six. 
These  records  do  not  embrace  the  large  numbers  who 
were  mingled  in  the  various  other  organizations  of  the 
state,  and  the  census  returns  must  most  inadequately 
exhibit  the  true  amount.  Many  other  residents  of  Essex 
county,  estimated  at  the  time  to  amount  to  several  hundred 
in  the  aggregate,  were  enlisted  by  the  active  zeal  of  agents 
from  several  of  the  New  England  states.  The  excess  of 
seven  dollars  per  month  pay,  offered  by  Vermont,  allured 
large  numbers  of  the  youth  of  the  county,  who  enlisted  into 
the  line  of  that  state.  The  archives  of  New  York  show 
that  from  the  recruits  credited  on  the  quota  of  Essex  county, 
three  hundred  and  sixty-six  deaths  occurred  on  the  field  of 
battle  from  wounds,  accidents,  and  diseases  incident  to  the 
exposures  of  the  service.  The  actual  casualties  among  the 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY. 


295 


citzens  of  Essex  were  far  heavier,  and  can  never  with  any 
degree  of  accuracy  be  computed. 

An  attempt  to  ascertain  the  expenses  and  disbursements 
in  their  infinitely  varied  forms,  is  still  more  difficult  and 
unsatisfactory.  The  amounts  actually  authorized  by  the 
board  of  supervisors  to  be  raised  by  the  county  and  the 
several  towns,  at  different  sessions  and  without  the  accu 
mulation  of  interest  reached  a  total  of  $553,871,47.  This 
great  sum  does  not  include  the  vast  amounts  realized  by 
the  liberal  contributions  derived  from  personal  and  local 
efforts,  nor  the  money  expended  in  recruiting  and  equip 
ping  the  early  volunteers.  Nor  the  supplies  of  provisions, 
clothing,  medicines  and  other  subscriptions  essential  to  the 
health  and  comfort  of  the  troops.  Heavy  sums  were  ag 
gregated  by  the  individual  payment  of  the  $300,  by  an 
early  act  authorized  to  avoid  the  draft,  and  by  the  pur 
chase  of  substitutes.  Private  liberality  and  patriotic  zeal 
expended  in  silence  and  secrecy  vast  amounts  which  were 
unknown  and  incomputable.  The  magnitude  of  all  these 
contributions  and  expenditures  can  never  be  known,  nor 
will  human  pen  ever  record  the  extent  and  value  of  these 
efforts. 

The  following  tabular  statements  exhibit  interesting 
statistics  illustrative  of  the  devotedness  and  responsibilities 
incurred  by  the  towns  of  Essex  county  : l 

Table  No.  1.     Number  enlisted  by  several  towns. 

Chesterfield,  92 

Crown  Point, 192 

Elizabethtown,  105 

Essex,  60 

Jay, 93 

Keene, 47 

Lewis, 115 

Minerva 50 

Moriah,  157 

Newcomb 8 


North  Elba, 27 

North  Hudson, 24 

St.  Armands , 19 

Schroon , , 94 

Ticonderoga, 128 

Westport, 58 

Willsboro', 43 

Wilmington,  64 


Total,, 


1306 


1 1  have  obtained  these  materials  through  the  research  and  courtesy  of 
Major  R.  W.  Livingstone. 


296 


HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 


Table  No.  2.     Died,  etc. 


Chesterfield,  28 

Crown  Point, ...  44 

Elizabethtown,  19 

Essex,  16 

Jay, 25 

Keene, 9 

Lewis, 35 

Minerva, 12 

Moriah,  34 

Newcomb,  1 


North  Elba, 6 

North  Hudson, 

St.  Armands, 7 

Schroon,  28 

Ticonderoga,  45 

Westport,.. 24 

Willsboro', 17 

Wilmington,  16 


Total, 


366 


Table  No.  3.      Town  Indebtedness. 


Chesterfield, $16,192  33 

Crown  Point, 

Elizabethtown, 3,777  91 

Essex, 1,275  00 

Jay, 12,300  00 

Keene,  

Lewis, 6,600  00 

Minerva, 3,500  00 

Moriah, 9,860  00 

Newcomb,..  600  00 


North  Elba,  

North  Hudson, $1,100  00 

St.  Armands,  2,000  00 

Schroon, 200  00 

Ticonderoga,  

Westport, 2,600  00 

Wilmington, 900  00 

Willsboro', 3,858  00 


Total, $64,763  74 

The  towns  which  appear  blank  in   the  above  statement,  made 
separate  provision  for  their  local  liabilities. 


CHAPTER  XV. 
GRANTS  AND  PATENTS. 

I  have  reviewed  in  preceding  pages,  the  circumstances 
connected  with  the  grants  of  territory  contiguous  to  Lake 
Champlain,  in  accordance  with  the  ordinance  of  the  king 
of  France,  in  the  year  1676.  The  action  of  the  colonial 
government,  under  the  British  proclamation  of  October  7, 
1763,  authorizing  grants  of  land  to  be  made  in  such  colonies 
as  they  might  prefer,  to  the  reduced  officers  and  soldiers 
who  had  served  in  the  regular  army,  in  the  Canadian 
campaigns ;  and  transactions  connected  with  such  grants, 
I  have  fully  discussed.  The  purchasers  of  these  rights 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  297 

usually  located  their  lands  in  the  names  of  the  grantees, 
but  not  apparently  in  all  cases.  William  Gilliland  em 
braced  in  one  body,  the  entire  tract  from  the  Boquet  to 
Splitrock,  under  several  distinct  rights,  and  other  pur 
chasers  pursued  the  same  course.  All  these  locations, 
many  of  which'  were  established  as  early  as  1765  and 
1766,  and  authenticated  by  appropriate  legal  formalities, 
have  been  perpetuated  and  still  exist,  under  the  names  of 
the  original  grantees.  In  many  instances,  the  officers  and 
soldiers  located  and  perfected  the  titles  themselves  to 
these  lands. 

The  history  of  the  grants  and  the  change  of  policy  con 
nected  with  them  possess  no  inconsiderable  value  and  de 
mands  a  brief  attention.  The  quantity  of  these  grants 
contemplated  by  these  proclamations  was  the  concession  of 
five  thousand  acres  to  a  field  officer;  to  a  captain  three 
thousand  acres;  to  a  subaltern  staff  officer  two  thousand 
acres ;  to  a  non-commissioned  officer  two  hundred  acres, 
and  to  a  private  fifty  acres.  These  grants  were  conferred 
by  parchment  patents,  under  the  great  seal  of  the  colony 
and  impressed  with  the  royal  arms.  They  reserved  to  the 
king  u  all  mines  of  gold  and  silver,  and  all  pine  trees  fit 
for  masts  of  the  growth  of  twenty-four  inches  diameter  and 
upwards  of  twelve  inches  from  the  earth."  These  grants 
were  held  for  ten  years  "  in  free  and  common  socage  ex 
empt  from  all  quit  rents,  and  after  the  expiration  of  that 
term,  rendering  and  paying  in  the  custom  house  in  New 
York,  at  Lady  Day,  the  yearly  rent  of  two  shillings  and 
sixpence  sterling,  for  each  and  every  hundred  acres  of  the 
granted  land."  The  farther  conditions  imposed  the  settle 
ment  "  of  as  many  families  on  the  tract  as  shall  amount  to 
one  family  on  every  thousand  acres  thereof,"  and  "  to  cul 
tivate  at  least  three  acres  for  every  fifty  acres  susceptible  ot 
cultivation."  Both  of  these  conditions  were  to  be  performed 
within  three  years  from  the  date  of  the  grant.  "  No  waste 
was  to  be  committed  on  the  reserved  timber;  the  grant  to 
be  registered  at  the  secretary's  office  and  docketted  at  the 
auditor's  office  in  New  York."  A  neglect  to  perform  either 


298  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

of  these  conditions  worked  a  forfeiture  of  the  grant.  We 
may  trace  in  the  land  papers  serious  consequences  result 
ing  from  these  delinquencies.  The  council  seems  to  have 
possessed  certain  powers  to  control  the  nature  and  form  of 
these  proceedings.  In  February,  1765,  it  adopted  a  rule, 
that  no  soldier  was  entitled  to  a  grant  "  unless  disbanded  on 
the  reduction  of  the  regiment."  By  minutes  in  1770,  1771, 
it  required  grants  to  be  taken  out  in  three  months  after 
the  petition  had  been  presented,  arid  in  the  last  date 
ordered  names  of  delinquents  to  be  stricken  from  the  list  of 
grants.  Most  of  these  grants  were  located  in  the  vicinity 
of  Lake  Champlain,  and  a  large  proportion  upon  the  east 
ern  side,  upon  what  is  now  the  territory  of  Vermont.  In 
the  confusion  of  the  agitated  period  that  preceded  the  re 
volution,  numerous  cases  of  these  petitions  remained  in  an 
inchoate  condition ;  and  in  others,  although  the  proceedings 
had  been  regular  and  ample,  were  not  consummated  by 
patents  from  the  colonial  government.  In  most  of  these 
instances  the  succeeding  state  government  refused  to  ratify 
the  proceedings  of  the  claimants,  and  large  estates,  as  we 
have  seen  illustrated  in  the  notice  of  Gilliland,  were  lost. 
The  state  constitution  of  1777,  by  a  provision  which  has 
been  incorporated  in  the  constitutions  of  1821  and  1847, 
abrogated  all  royal  grants  after  October  14th,  1775. 

Deep  interest  attaches  to  those  ancient  grants,  the 
rewards  of  military  services,  while  strong  romance  has 
gathered  about  a  portion  of  them.  We  recognize  the 
peculiar  justice  and  appropriateness,  that  conferred  on  the 
gallant  men  who  participated  in  the  terrible  scenes,  which 
impressed  on  the  region  its  gorgeous  historic  associations, 
these  acknowledgments  of  their  services  from  the  territory 
won  to  their  country  by  their  blood  and  sufferings. 

A  small  part  only  of  the  great  area  of  Essex  county  was 
occupied  in  the  location  of  these  grants.  Since  the  revo 
lution,  large  tracts  of  unappropriated  lands,  belonging  to 
the  state,  have  been  patented  to  individuals.  The  re 
mainder, 'at  an  early  period  of  the  present  government, 
was  run  out  into  tracts  and  townships  by  the  state,  and 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  299 

subdivided  into  lots,  which  have  been  sold  in  any  amount 
desired  by  the  purchaser.  These  lands  were  devoted  to 
the  accumulation  of  an  educational  fund,  and  the  proceeds 
of  the  sales  have  been  appropriated  to  that  beneficent  pur 
pose.  The  state  yet  retains  a  large  extent  of  this  domain. 
Much  of  it  possesses  considerable  value  from  the  wood  and 
timber  forests  it  embraces,  but  other  portions,  constituting 
as  they  do,  the  rocky  upheavals  and  mountains  of  the 
Adirondacs,  are  worthless,  except  for  the  mineral  wealth 
that  may  be  hidden  in  their  recesses. 

1  am  indebted  for  most  of  the  materials  upon  which  I 
have  founded  the  following  account  of  the  grants  and 
patents  of  the  county,  to  the  zealous  and  careful  investiga 
tions  of  a  learned  legal  friend,  whose  professional  studies 
have  constrained  a  thorough  research  into  the  land  titles 
of  the  district.     With  such  aid.  I  have  made  the  notices  I 
now  present,  of  the  origin  and  history  of  these  patents  and 
grants  as  accurate  and  complete  as  I  believe  so  intricate  a 
subject  admits,  but  I  am   aware  that  the   execution   is 
necessarily  imperfect.     The  long  list  of  the  patents  I  have 
endeavored  to  make  full  and  correct,  but  it  may  be  found 
defective.1     The  magnitude  of  many  of  these  grants  will 
attract   attention.      Land  was   at  that  period   the   most 
abundant  of  all  commodities,  and  the  government  felt  that 
it   controlled  a  "  whole   boundless   continent."      In   the 
voluminous   Land   Papers,   documents   frequently   occur, 
referring  to  surveys  of  "  that  small  piece  of  land,"  some 
times  embracing  five  hundred  and  often  two  thousand 
acres.2     The  Southier  Map,  to  which  I  shall  make  frequent 
reference,  was  prepared  under  the  direction  of  Governor 
Tryon,  and  published  in  London,  1779. 

Abeel.  James  Abeel,  for  himself  and  twelve  others  Feb 
ruary  3d,  1773,  petitioned  for  a  grant  of  thirteen  thousand 
acres  of  land  lying  on  the  west  side  of  Schroon  lake  in 

1 1  have  received  peculiar  aid  from  the  examinations  of  Mr.  F.  C.  Hale,  in 
the  archives  of  the  office  of  secretary  of  state. 

2  The  Calendar  of  Land  Papers,  and  the  Catalogue  of  Maps  and  Surveys, 
shed  a  flood  of  light  on  the  history  of  these  grants  and  patents. 


300  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Totten  and  Crossfield's  purchase.1  Southier's  map  has  a 
tract  with  this  name  and  corresponding  with  the  above 
description,  which  would  embrace  the  present  Schroon 
Lake  village.  From  the  frequent  appearance  of  his  name 
in  the  Land  Papers  it  may  be  inferred  that  Abeel  was 
engaged  in  large  and  numerous  land  operations. 

Benzel.  Adolphus  Benzel  has  been  already  mentioned 
as  a  prominent  official  in  the  county  and  a  weathy  resident 
of  Crown  Point.  He  seems  to  have  acted  largely  as  sur 
veyor  in  locating  the  ancient  patents.  He  was  conspicuous 
in  the  New  Hampshire  grant  controversies,  and  necessarily 
highly  obnoxious  to  the  settlers  there.  The  reply  of  the 
Bennington  committee  to  Governor  Tryon,  in  reference  to 
Colonel  Reid's  action,  speaks  of  "  the  vicious  and  haughty 
aid  of  Mr  Benzel,  the  famed  engineer."2  He  was  among 
the  reduced  officers  embraced  in  the  royal  proclamation. 
Southier  lays  down  two  patents  in  his  name,  one  in  Moriah 
between  Small's  and  Legg's;  the  other  in  Crown  Point 
adjoining  south  of  the  garrison  grounds.  The  former  is 
known  as  Springer  patent  of  three  thousand  acres,  and  the 
latter  as  Benzel' s  of  one  thousand  acres.  We  conjecture 
that  the  former  may  have  been  applied  for  by  Benzel,  but 
subsequently  issued  to  Springer  and  others. 

Benson.  Richard  Benson,  and  a  number  of  other  pri 
vates  reduced  from  the  Eightieth,  Sixtieth,  and  Forty- 
fourth  regiments,  received  a  patent  for  five  hundred  and 
fifty  acres  Oct.  29th,  1765,  which  was  located  in  the  present 
town  of  Willsboro'  north  of  Wreisburg  and  west  of  the 
Montressor  patent.  It  appears  that  the  Benson  and  also 
the  MontresS'T  patent  were  occupied  only  by  squatters 
until  1819.  In  that  year  both  were  purchased  by  Seth 
Hunt  of  Keene,  New  Hampshire.  The  validity  of  the  ori 
ginal  patent  and  his  title  were  soon  after  established  and 
his  rights  judicially  enforced.  Many  individuals,  who  had 
been  innocent  purchasers  under  the  spurious  titles  to  these 
patents,  were  severe  sufferers  by  this  adjudication. 

1  Land  Papers,  xxxiu,  page  25.        2  Hall's  Vermont. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  3Q1 

Bruyn.  Two  patents  granted  to  Lewis  Bruyn,  are  laid 
down  west  of  Schroon  lake  on  Southier's  map. 

Campbell,  Allen.  A  reduced  field  officer,  is  thus  described  : 
"having  served  in  N.  A.,  during  the  late  war  in  Second 
battalion  of  our  Royal  Highland  regiment  of  Foot." 
Campbell  united  in  a  petition  with  Lt-  John  Kennedy, 
praying  for  a  grant  of  seven  thousand  acres.  The  bounda 
ries  indicated  u  extending  from  the  first  mountain  west  of 
the  carrying  place  at  the  foot  of  Lake  George  "  along  said 
mountain  to  where  it  touches  Lake  Champlain  near  Crown 
Point,  and  thence  to  the  mouth  of  the  outlet  from  Lake 
George.  Kennedy's  grant  embraces  a  portion  of  this 
highly  desirable  territory,  but  Campbell's  was  located  else 
where.  His  patent  for  five  thousand  acres,  dated  July  11, 
1764,  was  laid  out  in  Crown  Point,  on  the  lake  shore : 
Benzel  and  Legg  on  the  north,  and  Grant  on  the  south. 

Campbell,  Donald.  The  petition  of  Donald  Campbell, 
December  17th,  1763,  describes  him  as  late  lieutenant  in 
the  Eoyal  American  regiment,  and  claims  two  thousand 
acres.  The  land  his  petition  indicated  was  nearly  iden 
tical  with  the  last.  Another  petition,  Feb.  18,  1773,  of 
Quarter  Master  Donald  Campbell,  asks  for  two  thousand 
acres  on  the  south-west  side  of  Lake  George,  near  the  gar 
rison  grounds.  On  November  1st,  1784,  Donald  Camp 
bell  filed  a  petition  for  a  confirmatory  grant  of  a  tract  of 
land  surveyed  for  him  in  1764,  pursuant  to  the  Royal 
proclamation.  No  action  appears  upon  record  on  this  peti 
tion,  but  on  the  25th  of  May,  1786,  the  return  was  filed  of 
a  survey  of  two  thousand  acres  north  of  N.  Sutherland's 
tract  to  Donald  Campbell,  for  which  he  paid  on  the  follow 
ing  28th  of  June,  one  hundred  pounds.  A  tract  is  laid 
down  on  the  map,  under  this  designation  between  Grant's 
on  the  north,  and  Southerland's  on  the  south. 

Connelly.  John  Connelly  presented  a  petition  for  a  grant 
as  surgeon'smate  and  belonging  to  a  military  hospital.  A 
patent  was  issued  April  13th,  1765,  for  two  thousand  acres. 

.  '  Land  Papers,  LII,  45. 


302  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

It  lies  in  Willsboro,  and  Essex,  and  is  one  of  the  grants 
located  by  William  Gilliland. 

Deal.  Samuel  Deal,  a  merchant  of  wealth  in  the  city 
of  New  York,  embarked  in  heavy  land  operations  in  the 
present  county  of  Essex  in  1767,  and  purchased  about  that 
time  a  tract  of  five  thousand  acres  between  Lakes  George 
and  Champlain.  His  connection  with  the  Kennedy  patents, 
I  shall  notice  in  its  proper  place.  He  received  July  12th, 
1769,  a  grant  for  one  thousand  acres,  which  was  located  by 
him  in  Ticonderoga  and  west  of  the  village  of  Lower  Falls. 
Another  tract,  adjoining  the  above,  is  called  and  designated 
on  the  county  map  as  Deal's  patent. 

Field.  John  Field  was  a  surgeons  mate  and  applied  by 
petition  April  14th,  1764,  for  a  grant  of  two  thousand  acres 
in  pursuance  of  proclamation.  The  patent  was  issued  April 
15th,  1765,  and  the  land  surveyed  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Boquet  by  Gilliland  as  assignee  of  Field  immediately  after. 

Franklin.  Joseph  Franklin,  late  sergeant  in  Twenty- 
seventh  regiment,  united  with  Sergeant  Benjamin  Porter, 
in  a  petition,  July  9,  1764,  praying  a  grant  to  each  of  two 
hundred  acres,  described  as  "  bearing  west  north-west 
thirty-nine  chains  from  the  salient  angle  of  the  King's 
bastion,  fronting  the  lake  half  a  mile,  and  then  west 
north-westerly,  until  it  completes  the  said  number  of 
acres."  Mr.  Benzel,  the  engineer,  made  a  note  of  the 
survey.  The  patent  to  Franklin  issued  July,  1765,  and 
was  laid  out  in  conformity  with  the  petition  between  the 
Porter  and  McKensie's  tracts,  and  embraced  Cedar  point 
at  Port  Henry.  On  the  5th  of  March,  1792,  Franklin 
conveyed  his  title  to  James  Graham,  and  April  15,  1792, 
Graham  devised  it  to  his  daughter,  Ann  Eliza.  Graham 
was  a  fur  trader,  and  the  mother  of  this  child  was  a  half 
breed.  The  daughter,  in  1802,  executed  a  will  in  New 
York,  devising  the  property  to  St.  Peter's  (Catholic) 
church  of  that  city,  in  trust  for  the  school  of  the  church. 
The  church  conveyed  it  to  Mr.  J.  B.  Spencer,  under  this 
will,  whose  title  was  judicially  sustained. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  303 

J?riswelL  John  Friswell  applied  as  late  lieutenant  in  the 
navy,  and  having  acted  as  midshipman  on  board  the 
Princess  Amelia,  at  the  siege  of  Louisburg  and  Quebec, 
February  15,  1765,  for  a  grant  of  three  thousand  acres  of 
land  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain.  On  the  May 
following  a  return  of  a  survey  was  filed  of  two  tracts,  con 
taining  two  thousand  acres ;  one  in  Plattsburg,  and  the 
other  of  one  thousand  acres  nearly  west  of  "  Splitten 
Rock,"  and  lying  upon  the  lake.  This  is  one  of  Gilliland's 
locations. 

Frelegh.  A  certificate  of  location  of  six  hundred  acres 
of  land  to  George  Frelegh,  on  the  west  side  of  Lake 
Champlain,  appears  in  Long  Island  Papers,  XLVI,  41,  Feb 
ruary  3,  1789,  and  a  patent  in  Willsboro'  and  Essex, 
bears  this  name.1  It  is  not  on  Southier's  map,  and  must 
have  been  granted  subsequent  to  the  revolution. 

Gilliland.  A  Gilliland  patent  is  laid  down  on  Southier, 
west  of  Benson's  grant  in  "Willsboro'.  James,  a  brother 
of  William  Gilliland,  about  1767,  settled  upon  a  lot  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  Boquet.2 

"William  Gilliland  £  Matthew  Watson."  Their  tract 
which  appears  on  the  large  county  map,  contained  two 
hundred  acres,  and  began  according  to  the  certificate  of 
location,  seven  chains  north  of  the  south-west  corner  of 
James  Judd's  patent,  June  22,  1789,  and  was  surveyed 
under  a  title  from  the  state.3 

Grant.  Robert  Grant  is  described  in  a  patent  for  three 
thousand  acres  issued  August  7th,  1764,  as  late  captain  in 
the  Seventy-seventh  regiment.  He  was  promoted  to  major 
and  killed  at  the  battle  of  Hubbardton  July  7th,  1777.  A 
return  of  survey  with  map  of  the  location  in  the  town  of 
Crown  Point  was  filed  in  the  colonial  office,  August  3d, 
1764,  Land  Papers,  xvm,  8.  About  twenty  years  after  the 
death  of  Grant,  a  spurious  agent  appeared  in  the  city  of 

1  Calendar,  777. 

2  Champlain  Valley,  41,  etc.     It  is  probable  that  this  may  have  been  his 
location. 

*Land  Papers,  XLVII,  33,  34. 


304  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

New  York,  and  pretending  to  hold  authority  from  him, 
deeded  the  patent,  as  such,  with  an  agreement  that  the 
grantee  and  agent  should  participate  in  the  avails.  The 
sisters  of  Major  Grant,  more  than  half  a  century  after  his 
decease,  instituted  proceedings  as  heirs  at  law  for  the  re 
covery  of  the  patent.  Under  a  commission  issued  in  the 
suit  and  sent  to  Scotland  in  the  year  1830  among  other 
witnesses  examined,  was  Lieut.  General  Thomas  Scott  then 
eighty-four  years  old,  who  swore,  that  he  saw  the  dead 
body  of  Grant  on  the  battle-field  at  Hubbardton  and  wit 
nessed  its  interment  at  that  place  with  military  honors,  and 
that  he  brought  back  to  Scotland  relics  of  Grant  which  he 
delivered  to  the  brother  of  Grant.  The  claimants  necessa 
rily  recovered  the  premises.  This  patent  embraces  a  large 
portion  of  the  most  valuable  part  of  the  town  of  Crown 
Point. 

Guise.  William  Guise  and  three  others  non-commis 
sioned  officers  in  the  Fifty-fifth  regiment  of  foot,  received  a 
grant  of  eight  hundred  acres,  Jan.  5th,  1773.  On  the  county 
map,  this  grant  is  placed  on  the  east  side  of  Schroon  lake 
near  the  county  line.  It  is  not  on  Southier.  By  the  sur 
vey  and  map  for  Guise  and  associates,  the  location  of  the 
patent  was  on  the  north-east  branch  of  the  Hudson  on  the 
boundary  between  Schroon  and  Warren  county.1 

Hasendever.  Peter  Hasenclever  and  others  petitioned 
June  30th,  1766,  for  a  grant  of  fifteen  thousand  acres,  on  the 
east  side  (?)  of  Lake  Champlain,  and  praying  a  resurvey  of 
Franklin,  Porter  and  McKensie's  patent  (inMoriah)  so  as 
to  admit  a  passage  to  the  lake  and  land  for  store  house. 
On  Southier's  map  the  patent  is  laid  down  north  of  Small, 
but  it  does  not  appear  on  the  county  map,  and  the  present 
Iron  Ore  bed  tract  is  bounded  by  Small's  patent  on  the 
south.  This  grant  was  probably  confiscated  if  ever  actually 
consummated. 

Hicks.  John  Hicks  is  described  as  "  gentleman,  a  reduced 
staff  officer,"  and  "  surgeon  in  one  of  our  independent  com- 

1  Land  Papers,  xxxn,  91.        a  Idem,  xxi,  51. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  3Q5 

parries  of  Foot,"  Patent  April  15th,  1765,  for  three  thou 
sand  acres.     Lies  in  Essex  and  located  by  Gilliland. 

Judd.  James  Judd,  described  as  "  gentleman,  reduced 
officer  and  surgeon's  mate  in  our  military  hospital."  Patent 
issued  April  loth,  1765,  for  two  thousand  acres,  with  bound 
aries  "  beginning  at  Cloven  or  Splitten  Rock,  etc."  Lies  in 
the  town  of  Essex. 

Kellett.  Roger  Kellett  "gentleman,  a  reduced  subaltern 
officer,"  late  lieutenant  in  Forty-fourth  regiment.  The 
grant  was  surveyed  August  2d,  and  patent  granted  August 
7th,  1764,  for  two  thousand  acres.1  This  patent  situated  in 
Ticonderoga  with  those  of  Stoughton  and  Kennedy,  were 
selected  with  areat  judgment  by  officers  familiar  with  the 
beauty  and  value  of  the  territory. 

Kelly.  John  Kelly  appears  to  have  been  a  large  opera 
tor  soon  after  the  revolution,  but  I  find  no  traces  of  him 
anterior  to  it.  A  tract  of  land  in  Essex  and  Westport 
known  by  this  name,  is  probably  the  same  described  as 
lying  west  of  Split  rock  or  Northwest  bay,  for  which  he 
proposed  to  pay  on  April  15th,  1793,  two  shillings  per  acre, 
and  contained  about  three  thousand  acres. 

Kennedy.  John  Kennedy,  "  gentleman,  reduced  subaltern 
officer,"  lieutenant  in  the  Sixtieth  regiment.  Patent  granted 
August  7th,  1764,  for  two  thousand  acres.  It  lies  in  Ticon 
deroga,  and  extends  from  the  lower  falls  along  the  north 
side  of  the  stream  to  the  fort  ground,  thence  across  to  Lake 
Ohamplain  and  down  its  shore,  and  sweeping  into  the 
interior  included  a  large  part  of  the  valuable  plateau  in  the 
north  section  of  the  town.2  At  the  death  of  the  grantee, 
the  property  passed  to  "  his  oldest  brother,  Henry  Kennedy, 
surgeon,"  who  sold  it  September  26th,  1765,  for  one  hun 
dred  and  fifty  pounds  sterling,  to  Abraham  P.  Lott  and 
Peter  Theobaldus  Curtenius,  "merchants  of  the  city  of  New 
York,"  and  they  sold  it  December  16th,  1767,  for  one  hun 
dred  and  eighty  pounds,  lawful  currency  to  Samuel  Deall 
"merchant,  etc."3 

1  Catalogue,  155.        2  See  Allen  Campbell  patent.        8  Cook's  Ticonderoga. 
20 


306  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Legge.  The  singular  incidents  connected  with  the  his 
tory  of  this  patent  have  attached  peculiar  interest  to  it, 
and  no  portion  of  Essex  county  has  heen  the  subject  of 
more  bitter  and  protracted  litigation.  Francis  Legge, 
who  I  infer  belonged  to  the  family  of  the  Earl  of  Dart 
mouth,  was  a  captain  in  the  Forty-sixth  regiment.  Under 
the  royal  proclamation,  he  received  a  concession  on  June 
26th,  1769,  of  five  thousand  acres  which  had  been  located 
in  the  present  towns  of  Moriah  and  Crown  Point  by  a  sur 
vey  returned  the  6th  of  April  preceding.  The  early  action 
of  Legge  in  reference  to  his  grant,  is  enveloped  inconsider 
able  obscurity.  A  mandamus  was  issued  by  the  king  in 
council  September  5th,  1765,  for  five  thousand  acres  to  be 
surveyed  to  Francis  Legge,  captain  of  the  Twenty-sixth,  in 
one  continuous  tract  in  the  province  of  New  York.1  On 
the  3d  of  November,  1766,  Captain  Francis  Legge  pre 
sented  "a  petition  for  five  thousand  acres  of  land  on  the 
west  side  of  Connecticut  river,  with  specific  boundaries."1 
He  made  a  similar  application  for  a  grant  of  five  thousand 
acres  in  the  township  of  Norwich  in  a  wholly  different  sec 
tion  from  the  preceding.  The  identity  of  the  name  and  the 
quantity  of  land  solicited,  seern  to  warrant  the  conclusion, 
that  the  several  applications  if  made  by  one  individual, 
rested  upon  the  same  claim  ;  but  it  is  difficult  to  determine, 
why  all  should  have  been  advanced.  In  1809,  a  William 
Legge,  assuming  to  be  the  heir  of  Francis,  conveyed  or 
pretended  to  convey  this  patent  to  one  Winter,  who  after 
wards  deeded  it  to  Shaw.  One  of  them  caused  the  tract 
to  be  subdivided  into  lots,  and  sold  a  portion  of  these  to 
settlers.  Subsequently,  Shaw  brought  ejectments  against 
occupants  who  refused  to  admit  his  title.  Another  claim, 
known  as  the  James  Brown  title,  was  founded  upon  a 
deed  dated  in  the  year  1818,  and  purporting  to  have  been 
executed  by  John  Legge  in  Ireland,  who  also  claimed  to 
be  heir  of  Francis,  to  two  persons,  mother  and  son,  by  the 
name  of  Sinclair.  They  conveyed  to  James  Brown,  who 

1  Calendar,  377.       2  Idem,  204. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  307 

also  brought  ejectments,  and  some  suits  under  this  title  are 
said  to  be  still  pending. 

In  1831,  suits  were  brought  against  some  of  the  occu 
pants  upona  claim  some  times  called  the  "  Cape  Ann  title." 
It  was  asserted,  that,  in  the  year  1770,  Francis  Legge, 
while  at  Ipswich,  Mass.,  residing  with   a  Dr.  Manning, 
executed  a  deed  of  the  whole  patent,  to  one  Howe,  then  a 
child  of  four  or  five  years.     One  of  these  suits  was  against 
Brown  and  an  occupant,  was  tried,  with  a  verdict  and  judg 
ment  for  the  plaintiff,  but  this  was  reversed  in  the  court  of 
errors.     On  the  trial  of  this  suit,  proof  was  introduced  by 
defendants,  tending  to  show,  that  Legge  died  and  was 
buried  in  Troy,  !N".  Y.,  in  1780.     In  1860,  a  commission 
issuing  out  of  the  United  States  circuit  court,  was  executed 
in   London,   by  which  the  following  series  of  facts  were 
established,  from  records  in  the  war  office  and  those  of 
the  state  paper  office  and  the  colonial  office,  the  registry 
of  the   court   of  probate,  in  doctor's   commons,   and  by 
exhibits   and    the  examination   of   proper   officials,   that 
Francis  Legge,  was  appointed  lieutenant,  in  Thirty-fifth 
Foot  in  1754,  captain  in  Forty-sixth  in  1756;  that  at  this 
time  he  was  serving  in  America;  that  he  was  major  in 
1767;  lieutenant  in  Fifty-fifth  Foot  in  1773,  and  appointed 
governor  of  JsTova  Scotia  in  August,  1783 ;  that  he  was 
recalled,   and   his    conduct    as   governor  investigated   in 
1786;  that  he  was  buried  in  the  parish  of  Primer,  Mid 
dlesex,  England,  in  22d  May,  1783;  that  his  will  dated 
April  18th,   1769,  was  proved  the  May  following  by  his 
executors,  the  Earl  of  Dartmouth  and  William  Baillie, 
Esq.,  and  that  the  Earl  of  Dartmouth,  whom  he  styles  in  his 
will  "  his  much  esteemed  friend,"  was  his  principal  legatee 
and  devisee.     Personal  property  was  left  by  the  will  to 
various  relations.     The  record  of  his  burial  described  him 
as  "  Lieutenant  Colonel  Francis  Legge,  late  governor  of 
Nova  Scotia."     It  is  not  my  province  to  discuss  the  singu 
lar  features  of  this  case. 

Miller.  Paul  Miller,  a  corporal  in  Sixtieth  regiment  of 
foot,  located  a  patent  dated  April  16th,  1765  of  two  hun- 


308  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

dred  acres  on  the  south  side  of  the  Boquet.     It  lies  in 
Willsboro'. 

Mallory's  Grant.  Nathaniel  Mallory,  on  March  25th,  1799, 
entered  the  return  of  a  survey  or  tract  of  land  on  west 
side  of  Lake  Champlain  containing  nine  thousand  nine 
hundred  and  seventy-three  acres,  situated  in  Jay,  Keene 
and  Wilmington.1 

Mathews.  This  patent  was  granted  October  30th,  1765, 
to  James  Mathews  and  seven  others,  privates,  for  four 
hundred  acres.  It  lies  in  Ticonderoga. 

Maule's.  This  tract,  comprising  forty-two  thousand  nine 
hundred  and  fifty-seven  acres,  was  patented  to  Thomas 
Maule,  August  21st,  1800.  Embracing  large  sections  of 
Chesterfield,  Jay,  and  Willsboro',  it  also  occupies  a  por 
tion  of  Au  Sable  and  Black  Brook,  in  Clinton.  In  March, 
1803,  Maule  and  wife  conveyed  to  five  persons  in  trust 
about  twenty  thousand  acres  of  this  patent  in  Chesterfield 
and  Jay.  This  trust  was  for  the  benefit  of  the  Farmers' 
Society,  a  benevolent  organization,  intended,  as  is  now 
understood,  to  supply  mechanics  and  others  in  moderate 
circumstances  with  freehold  farms;  but  as  the  scheme 
proved  a  failure,  there  is  no  object  for  tracing  its  history. 
The  trustees  executed  a  mortgage  for  fifty  thousand  dol- 
ars  on  the  purchase.  This  mortgage  came  into  the  hands 
of  Edward  Livingstone,  who  assigned  it  to  his  sister,  the 
widow  of  General  Montgomery;  and  the  surviving  trustees, 
conveyed,  or  released  the  property  to  her.  She  devised 
it  to  Edward  Livingstone,  and  on  his  death  he  devised  it 
to  his  wife.  By  these  various  owners,  parcels  were  con 
veyed  to  numerous  settlers. 

Mclntosh.  Alexander  Mclntosh,  late  captain  of  Seventy- 
seventh  regiment  August  3d,  1764,  filed  the  return  of  a 
survey  of  three  thousand  acres  between  Crown  Point  and 
Ticonderoga.  Patent  issued  August  7th. 

McBride.  Patent  issued  April  23, 1765,  to  James  McBride, 
late  sergeant  in  Forty-seventh  foot,  for  two  hundred  acres. 

1  Calendar,  1010. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY".  309 

Lies  in  Willsboro',  and  is  bounded  south  and  west  by  the 
Boquet,  and  east  by  the  lake. 

McDonald.  Three  tracts  bearing  this  designation  appear 
on  Southier's  map,  lying  west  of  Schroon  lake  and  river. 
On  December  1,  1773,  Captain  Lieutenant  (he  is  thus 
described  more  than  once  in  the  land  papers)  Alexander 
McDonald  and  associates,  presented  a  petition  for  three 
tracts  of  land,  containing  in  the  aggregate  thirty  thousand 
three  hundred  and  sixty  acres,  and  lying  "  within  the 
bounds  of  Totten  and  Crossfield's  purchase." 

McKensie.  Alexander  McKensie,  sergeant  in  the  Fortieth 
regiment,  received  two  patents,  October  29,  1765,  one  of 
a  hundred  acres  adjoining  the  Franklin  patent,  and  fifty 
acres  called  the  Grove.  Both  are  situated  in  Moriah,  in 
which  town  a  grandson  and  numerous  descendants  reside; 
a  descendant  lives  upon  the  original  patent.  I  am  aware 
of  no  other  instance,  except  that  of  William  G-ilHland,  in 
which  the  family  of  an  original  patentee  of  these  ancient 
grants  have  remained  in  the  county. 

Montressor.  Patent  issued  June  6th,  1765,  to  John  Mon- 
tressor,  Francis  Mee  and  Robert  Wallace  for  three  thou 
sand  acres,  "called  Ligonier  point,  as  also  four  small 
islands  called  Les  Isles  des  Quatre  Vents,  in  the  lake  east 
ward  of  Ligonier  point."  *  This  is  the  beautiful  tract  now 
known  as  Willsboro'  point.2  The  original  petition  also 
asked  for  Schuyler's  island.  Some  doubt  exists  in  refer 
ence  to  the  origin  of  the  name  Ligonier.  I  venture  to 
refer  it  to  Sir  John  Ligonier,  who,  about  the  date  in 
which  it  must  have  been  applied,  was  commander-in-chief 
of  the  army  in  Great  Britain.3 

Old  Military  Tract.  An  act  was  passed  May  5th,  1786,  as 
a  memorial  of  public  gratitude,  to  remunerate  military 
service  in  the  revolution,  devoting  to  the  purpose,  a  large 
territory  known  as  the  Old  Military  Tract,  lying  north  of 
Jessup's  purchase  and  beginning  thirty  miles  from  the 
north-east  corner  of  lands  granted  to  Philip  Skene,  6th 

1  Land  Papers,  xix,  31.        a  See  Benson.        •  Doc.  Hist.,  x,  705  note. 


310  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

July,  1771,  and  extending  twenty  miles  in  width  and  to 
the  north  bound  of  the  state,  a  computed  distance  of  sixty 
miles.  It  was  run  out  into  large  townships.  Nos.  11  and 
12  constitute  St.  Armands  and  North  Elba.  Nos.  1  and  2, 
were  also  embraced  within  the  present  bounds  of  Essex 
county.  These  townships  were  subdivided  into  lots,  known 
as  the  Thome  and  Richard's  surveys. 

Ord.  Lieutenant  Colonel  Thomas  Ord,  Royal  regiment 
of  Artillery,  was  granted,  December  23,  1774,  a  patent  of 
five  thousand,  acres  part  of  lot  27,  in  Totten  and  Cross- 
field's  purchase.  This  patent  lies  in  Newcomb. 

Porter.  Benjamin  Porter,  late  sergeant  in  Twenty-seventh 
regiment,  obtained  a  patent  July  5th,  1765,  for  two  hundred 
acres.1  Port  Henry  is  situated  on  this  tract. 

Potts.  This  patent,  issued  in  the  name  of  William  Potts, 
April  26th,  1755,  for  two  thousand  acres,  located  by  William 
Gilliland.  Essex  village  stands  on  the  line  of  Potts  and 
Hicks  patents. 

Boss.  Patent  issued  to  James  Ross,  "  late  apothecary's 
mate  in  our  military  hospital,"  for  two  thousand  acres 
April  16th,  1765.  The  patent  is  bounded  on  the  Boquet. 
It  was  occupied  in  1766  by  two  persons,  Wilson  and  Good 
rich,  who  established  an  agency  at  Flat  Rock  bay,  which 
they  called  Burton.  The  scheme  was  abandoned  the 
February  ensuing,  and  no  further  occupation  in  Willsboro' 
north  of  the  Boquet  occurred  until  1790,  except  one  slight 
improvement  near  the  river. 

Ryerse  Grant.  In  1791,  the  state  granted  to  one  Vreden- 
burgh  a  tract  of  three  hundred  acres,  the  title  of  which  be 
came  vested  in  Gozen  Ryerse.  On  the  compromise  with 
Massachusetts,  this  territory  was  embraced  in  the  new  pre 
emption  line  of  that  state.  In  compensation  to  Ryerse 
for  this  loss,  New  York  in  1800  patented  to  him  a  tract  of 
eighteen  hundred  acres  lying  in  the  centre  of  Wilmington, 
and  now  known  as  Ryerse  grant. 

1  See  Franklin. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  3H 

Stoughton.  A  patent  was  issued  to  John  Stoughton, 
late  lieutenant  in  New  York  independent  company,  July  25, 
1774,  for  two  thousand  acres  lying  on  both  sides  of  the  out 
let  of  Lake  George.  Stoughton  was  drowned  in  Lake 
George,  leaving  a  widow  and  only  child.  This  child 
became  the  wife  of  Governor  Wolcott  of  Connecticut,  and 
the  valuable  estate  of  Edward  Elice  in  this  patent  was 
derived  from  her  by  purchase.1  A  question  was  agitated 
for  a  period  in  reference  to  the  legitimacy  of  this  child,  but 
this  has  long  since  subsided,  and  the  estate  which  had  not 
been  previously  sold  is  now  held  by  an  indisputable  title 
by  Mr.  Charles  Wheeler  of  Ticonderoga. 

Skene.  I  have  adverted  sufficiently  to  the  history  of 
Skene.  The  patents  were  granted  to  Major  Philip  Skene 
July  5th,  1771,  one  for  two  thousand  four  hundred  acres, 
situated  in  the  present  town  of  Westport,  and  embracing 
a  part  of  the  village  of  Westport,  and  the  other  for  six  hun 
dred  acres,  lying  in  Moriah  and  formerly  referred  to  as 
the  Iron  Ore  tract.  The  property  of  Philip  Skene  was  con 
fiscated  under  the  attainder  of  Philip  and  Andrew  Skene, 
and  the  patent  in  Moriah  was  sold  by  the  commissioners  of 
forfeitures  under  the  act  of  1786. 

Small.  John  Small,  late  captain  in  the  Twenty-first  regi 
ment,  on  April  5th,  1774,  received  a  patent  for  five  thou 
sand  acres.  It  lies  in  Moriah,  and  is  occupied  by  Moriah 
Centre  and  part  of  the  village  of  Moriah.  Grants  were  also 
issued  to  Small  by  the  New  York  colonial  governor,  which 
were  located  in  Vermont.  His  name  appears  as  plaintiff  in 
a  test  suit  brought  in  the  New  York  court,  to  establish  the 
validity  of  these  grants.2 

Sutherland.  Patent  issued  to  Nicholas  Sutherland,  late 
captain  of  Seventy-seventh  Foot,  August  7th,  1764,  for 
three  thousand  acres.  Lies  in  Ticonderoga. 

Springer  or  Sharp.  On  the  10th  November,  1766,  John 
Springer,  Elizabeth  Springer  and  Ann  Chadarin  Partiri, 
afterwards  Sharp,  tiled  a  petition  for  three  thousand  acres, 

1 Cook's  Ticonderoga.        ''Hall's  Vermont. 


312  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

in  the  county  of  Albany,  or  on  Otter  creek.  The  basis  of 
this  claim  appears  to  have  rested  upon  rights  vested  in 
Adolphus  Benzel  and  his  associates.  Elizabeth  Springer 
was  a  sister-in-law  of  Adolphus  Benzel.  A  return  of  the 
survey  of  three  thousand  acres  on  the  west  side  of  Lake 
Champlain,  is  on  record  April  6th,  1772.  A  warrant  author 
izing  this  survey  had  been  issued  1st  May,  1771.  In  April, 
1785,  the  parties  presented  a  petition  to  the  new  govern 
ment,  "  for  land  already  ordered  to  be  surveyed  for  them 
between  the  Legge  and  Small  patents."  On  the  10th 
November  following,  Zephaniah  Platt  filed  a  certificate  of 
location  of  the  same  tract,  praying  for  a  grant  of  the  same. 
His  claim  seems  to  have  been  founded  on  the  delinquency 
of  the  original  claimants,  but  after  considerable  controversy 
it  was  withdrawn  March  13th,  1786,  and  1st  May  following 
the  patent  was  granted  to  Elizabeth  Springer  and  Ann 
Catharine  Sharp,  for  the  consideration  of  £150  paid  the 
state.  It  is  situated  in  Moriah. 

Soldiers'  Rights.  On  Southier's  map,  a  tract  is  laid  down, 
commencing  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  flag-staff 
at  Ticonderoga,  and  extending  along  Lake  Champlain, 
from  a  mile  and  a  half  to  two  miles  wide,  upon  which  is 
inscribed,  "  Soldiers."  A  map  has  been  exhibited  to  me 
by  the  distinguished  professional  gentleman  already  re 
ferred  to,  which  seems  to  have  been  executed  more  than 
sixty  years  ago,  in  which  the  seven  tracts  are  laid  down, 
in  conformity  to  Southier,  beginning  with  William  Doug 
lass  on  the  north,  succeeded  by  four  others,  of  one  thou 
sand  acres  each ;  one  of  seven  hundred  acres,  and  one  of 
four  hundred  acres,  making  an  aggregate  of  six  thousand 
one  hundred  acres.  It  appears  by  the  Land  Papers,  that 
a  return  was  filed  February  8,  1772,  of  a  survey  for  "  Wil 
liam  Douglass  and  others,  noncommissioned  officers  and 
private  soldiers  of  sundry  tracts  of  land  containing  together 
six  thousand  one  hundred  acres  on  the  west  side  of  waters 
running  from  Wood  creek  to  Lake  Champlain."  On  the 
county  map,  six  of  these  rights  are  laid  down  in  Essex 
county. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  313 

Stevenson.  James  Stevenson,  December  7,  1765,  applied 
for  a  patent  in  right  of  his  father,  James  Stevenson,  com 
missary  of  ordnance,  etc.,  for  three  thousand  acres;  but 
it  was  not  granted  until  the  llth  of  July,  1776.  This 
patent  lies  in  Ticonderoga,  and  is  usually  called,  the 
Kirby  patent. 

Sfewart.  A  tract  of  fifty  acres,  granted  May  2d,  1772, 
to  James  Stewart,  is  situated  on  Lake  George,  in  Ticon 
deroga,  and  south  of  Tomlin's  patent. 

Summervale.  This  tract  of  fifteen  thousand  one  hundred 
and  twenty  acres,  was  surveyed  in  1771,  but  a  patent  to 
Goldsboro'  Banyar,  and  others,  was  not  granted  until 
August  14,  1786.  The  tract  lies  in  Crown  Point  and 
Ticonderoga. 

Totten  $  OrossfieM.  Experience  had  proved,  that  transac 
tions  for  the  acquisition  by  private  individuals  of  Indian 
lands  were  fraught  with  infinite  mischief  and  injustice. 
At  an  early  period,  the  instructions  to  the  colonial  go 
vernors,  and  at  length,  soon  after  the  cession  of  Canada,  a 
peremptory  proclamation  of  the  king,  prohibited  every 
purchase  of  the  kind,  and  declared  that  all  purchases  of 
lands  from  the  Indians  should  be  made  by  the  crown.1 
The  same  wise  and  beneficent  policy  was  engrafted  in  the 
state  constitution  of  1777,  and  those  which  have  succeeded. 

On  the  10th  of  April,  1771,  Joseph  Totten  and  Stephen 
Crossfield,  shipwrights,  residing  in  the  city  of  New  York, 
presented  a  petition  to  the  council,  asking  for  a  license  to 
purchase  from  the  Indians  a  tract  of  land  lying  on  the 
west  side  of  the  Hudson,  and  on  the  7th  June  following 
the  license  was  granted.  In  accordance  with  this  privi 
lege  a  treaty  was  held  in  July,  1772,  at  Johnson  Hall, 
with  all  the  peculiar  solemnities  of  such  occasions  and 
under  the  auspices  of  Sir  William  Johnson,  for  the  pur 
pose  of  perfecting  the  contemplated  purchase,  with  the 
Mohawk  and  Caughnawauga  Indians.  The  purchase  was 
made  for  the  consideration  of  about  one  thousand  one 

lDoc.  Hist,,  viz,  571. 


314  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

hundred  and  thirty-five  pounds  New  York  currency,  and 
a  deed  formally  executed  for  the  tract,  embracing  about 
eight  hundred  thousand  acres  and  with  boundaries  care 
fully  designated  by  courses  and  land  marks,  but  singularly 
vague  and  obscure.  This  interesting  document  is  still 
preserved  in  the  office  of  secretary  of  state,  among  the 
Land  Papers,  vol.  xxxn,  45.  A  written  agreement  of 
association  was  entered  into  March  27th,  1772,  between 
"  the  intended  proprietors  of  lands  about  to  be  purchased 
by  Ebenezer  Jessup  in  behalf  of  Totten  and  Crossfield  and 
their  associates,"  and  on  January  14th,  following,  a  fur 
ther  agreement  was  executed  and  a  ballot  made  of  twenty- 
four  of  the  townships  in  the  purchase.  A  catalogue  of 
the  lots  drawn,  with  the  proprietors'  names  annexed,  is  on 
file  in  the  secretary's  office.1 

Ebenezer  Jessup,  a  large  operator  in  lands  at  that  period, 
was  the  active  agent  in  these  arrangements,  and  purchased 
the  tract  for  Totten  and  Crossfield  and  their  associates. 
This  Indian  deed  conveyed  no  legal  title,  the  absolute  fee 
in  the  land  existing  in  the  crown.  It  undoubtedly  pro 
tected  them  against  intrusion  and  conferred  rights  proba 
bly  analogous  to  the  preemptive  rights  existing  at  the 
present  day.  The  government  recognized  these  rights 
and  issued  patents  in  subordination  to  them.  Jessup  ad 
vises  Governor  Golden,  December  27th,  1774,  that  he  had 
agreed  with  certain  individuals  for  Totten  and  Crossfield 
to  convey  ten  thousand  acres  to  them  in  the  purchase,  and 
requested  that  letters  patent  should  be  granted,  in  con 
formity  with  the  agreement,  which  was  soon  after  done.2 

The  territory  comprised  in  the  Totten  and  Crossfield 
purchase  lies  in  the  counties  of  Essex,  Warren,  Hamilton 
and  Herkimer.  The  west  and  part  of  the  north  lines  were 
surveyed  in  1772,  with  an  outline  of  a  portion  of  the  town 
ship,  each  of  which  included  about  twenty  thousand  acres. 


1  Land  Papers,  LIX,  9,  10,  88.     This  volume  is  occupied  exclusively  with 
papers  referring  to  this  tract. 
*Land  Papers,  xxxix,  157. 


MILITARY  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY.  315 

Slight  vestiges  of  these  surveys  may  still  be  traced.  The 
colonial  government  issued  patents  for  a  few  townships 
previous  to  the  revolution,  some  of  which  I  have  men 
tioned,  but  none  of  these  extended  to  lands  in  Essex 
county.  Among  these  patents,  the  return  of  a  survey  of 
twenty  thousand  acres  for  Sir  Jeffrey  Amherst  appears 
among  the  Land  Papers  under  date  of  March  27th,  1774. 
Sufficient  evidence  exists  upon  which  to  form  an  estimate 
of  the  market  value  of  these  lands  at  that  period.  Jessup 
executed  December  3d,  1772,  a  receipt  to  Philip  Livingstone 
for  two  hundred  and  six  pounds  and  eight  shillings,  the 
purchase  money  of  two  townships;  in  July  he  gave  another 
receipt  to  Thomas  Lewis  for  fifty-one  pounds,  in  payment 
of  three  thousand  acres,  and  on  8th  April  the  same  year 
another  to  Chris.  Duyckinck  for  one  hundred  and  three 
pounds  "  in  full  of  twenty-four  thousand  acres."  These  are 
preserved  among  the  Land  Papers.  The  action  of  the  pro 
prietors  at  a  meeting,  January  14th,  1773,  in  reference  to 
the  construction  of  a  road,  indicates  that  their  measures 
for  the  improvement  of  the  territory  were  active  and  judi 
cious. 

On  the  21st  of  April,  1775,  and  only  a  few  months  pre 
ceding  the  day  established  by  the  constitution  of  1777, 
from  which  all  royal  grants  were  abrogated,  Dartmouth 
wrote  to  Tryon,  that  the  king  would  confirm  by  letters 
patent  to  Totten  and  Crossfield  and  their  associates, "  their 
lands,  on  humble  application"  and  "a  disavowal  of  all  asso 
ciation"  with  the  nonintercourse  measures  of  the  colonists.1 
The  two  former,  at  least  probably  yielded  their  adhesion 
to  the  government.  Tradition  asserts  that  these  estates 
were  confiscated.  It  is  certain  that  a  large  portion  of  the 
purchase  reverted  to  the  state  government.  The  imaginary 
lines  of  all  the  townships  were  laid  down  on  Southier's 
map,  although  a  part  only  had,  at  that  time  been  practi 
cally  surveyed.  In  the  years  1785  and  1786,  numerous 
petitions  were  presented  to  the  state  for  grants  of  large 

lHis.  Doc.,  vui,  570. 


316  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

tracts  in  this  territory,  and  many  by  the  original  proprie 
tors,  who  thus  asked  the  confirmation  of  their  former 
claims.  These  applications  were  generally  conceded,  the 
claimants  usually  paying  the  state  a  valuable  consideration 
for  their  grants. 

Tomiin.  Thomas  Tomlin  obtained  a  grant  of  two  hun 
dred  acres  May  2d,  1772,  located  east  side  of  Lake  George 
and  adjoining  Stoughton.  On  the  old  map  referred  to,1 
this  patent  is  thus  located. 

Wharton.  A  patent  was  granted  to  John  Wharton,  Esq., 
late  captain  in  Sixtieth  regiment,  April  16th,  1765,  for 
three  thousand  acres,  which  was  located  by  Gilliland  in 
Essex. 

Wriesburg.  On  the  same  day  a  patent  was  granted  to 
Daniel  Wriesburg,  late  captain  Sixtieth  Foot,  and  was 
located  by  Gilliland,  in  Willsboro'. 

1  See  Soldier's  Rights. 


PART  II. 
PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY. 


The  physical  formation  of  Essex  county  combines  pecu 
liar  and  striking  characteristics.  The  beautiful  and  pic 
turesque  are  singularly  blended  with  the  magnificent  and 
imposing.  Exhibitions  of  impressive  grandeur,  scarcely 
transcended  by  the  magnificence  of  Niagara,  are  combined! 
with  scenes  of  incomparable  sylvan  beauty  and  romantic 
seclusion.  A  very  large  proportion  of  the  county  is  formed! 
by  a  general  upheaval,  which  produced  a  common  eleva 
tion  of  the  whole  region,  except  along  the  shores  of  Lake 
Champlain,  and  some  of  its  tributaries.  It  may  be  pro 
nounced  in  the  aggregate,  a  broken  and  mountainous  terri 
tory.  Many  districts,  however,  embracing  large  portions 
of  entire  townships,  exhibit  a  very  high  degree  of  native 
fertility  and  adaptation  to  tillage.  The  surface  of  these 
tracts  is  usually  level,  or  presents  gentle  and  agreeable  un 
dulations.  Extensive  valleys,  lying  elevated  among  the 
mountains,  possess  the  richest  soil,  formed  by  the  accumu 
lation  of  ages,  from  the  debris  of  the  higher  steeps.  Allu 
vial  flats  of  great  extent  and  natural  fertility,  spread  along 
the  margin  of  numerous  streams,  and  surround  the  hidden 
lakes  and  ponds  in  the  interior. 

The  hills  and  mountains,  far  up  their  slopes,  often  afford1 
a  rich  and  generous  soil,  yielding  the  choicest  pasture  and: 
meadow  lands.  Although  these  advantages  may  mitigate 
its  general  character,  the  country  presents  a  vast  surface,, 
rock  bound  and  inaccessible  in  its  cliffs  and  heights,  and 
impracticable  to  cultivation.  A  large  portion  of  this 
territory,  stamped  by  nature  with  ruggedness  and  desola 
tion,  and  closed  against  the  approaches  of  agriculture,, 
teems  with  immeasurable  wealth  in  its  forests  and  mines. 


318  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Several  detached  and  broken  ranges  of  mountains  enter 
the  county  from  the  south.  These  mountains  appear  to 
lose  their  distinctive  peculiarities  as  a  system  or  general 
range,  and  are  thrown  together  in  promiscuous,  massive 
groups.  Two  of  these  disturbed  ranges  reach  the  limits 
of  the  county  at  Ticonderoga.  They  are  not  high,  but 
exceedingly  abrupt  and  jagged.  One  suddenly  terminates 
at  Mount  Defiance,  and  the  other  subsides  into  slight 
eminences,  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  George.  Two  other 
ranges,  loftier  and  more  important,  exhibiting  the  same 
dislocated  character,  traverse  the  county  in  nearly  parallel 
tracts.  They  both  terminate  in  bold  and  majestic  pro 
montories  upon  Lake  Champlain,  and  spread  their  lateral 
projections  over  the  county.  These  lofty  promontories,  at 
some  points  upon  the  lake,  present  a  high  and  nearly 
perpendicular  wall,  and  at  others,  their  huge  and  beetling 
cliffs  impend  over  the  water.  These  impressive  spectacles 
of  mountain  scenery  are  exhibited  at  Moriah,  Willsboro', 
"Westport  and  Chesterfield. 

Peaks  occur  along  the  line  of  these  sierras,  which  in 
other  regions  would  be  regarded  as  conspicuous  land 
marks,  but  here,  associated  with  loftier  and  more  impos 
ing  summits,  they  have  neither  names  nor  notoriety. 
Among  the  class  of  secondary  mountains  within  the 
county,  are  Pharaoh,  in  Schroon,  Mount  Dix,  in  North 
Hudson,  and  the  Bald  mountain,  in  Moriah,  which 
attract  attention,  and  are  admired  for  their  position  and 
formation.  The  Bald  mountain  rises  to  an  altitude  of 
more  than  two  thousand  feet.  By  its  proximity  to  the 
lake,  and  its  isolated  position,  one  standing  upon  its  bald 
peak  may  trace  the  sinuosities  of  the  lake,  studded  with 
its  islands  and  promontories,  distinctly  revealed  in  a  course 
of  more  than  forty  miles.  The  villages  and  mountain 
scenery,  with  the  intervening  plains  on  both  sides  of  the 
lake,  form  a  brilliant  picture,  while  directly  beneath, 
the  eye  rests  upon  the  elevated  plateau  in  Moriah,  "  all 
dressed  in  living  green,"  and  the  busy  scenes  that  sur 
round  the  numerous  ore  beds.  This  peak  will  soon  be 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  319 

reached  by  a  convenient  ascent,  when  the  explorer  may 
enjoy,  without  any  great  effort  or  fatigue,  one  of  the  most 
impressive  and  beautiful  panoramic  views  afforded  by 
this  region  of  forests,  mountains  and  lakes.  In  the  Adi- 
rondac  group,  situated  chiefly  in  the  towns  of  Keene  and 
Newcomb,  a  cluster  occurs  of  the  loftiest  and  most  re 
markable  mountains  east  of  the  Mississippi.  Less  ele 
vated  than  individual  summits  of  the  White  hills  of  New 
Hampshire,  or  the  Black  mountain  of  North  Carolina, 
they  far  exceed  any  entire  range  in  the  gigantic  magni 
tude  of  their  proportions,  and  in  the  grandeur  and  beauty 
of  their  structure.  It  is  extraordinary,  that  the  public 
should,  until  so  recent  a  period,  have  been  in  comparative 
ignorance  of  this  remarkable  group  of  mountains,  and  of 
the  deeply  interesting  and  romantic  country  they  envelop 
in  their  mighty  folds.  They  are  within  forty  miles  of 
Lake  Champlain,  the  great  avenue  of  northern  commerce, 
and  so  familiar  to  the  fashionable  tourist.  Their  highest 
peaks  are  visible  from  Burlington,  and  the  altitude  of 
Mount  Marcy  has  actually  been  determined  from  that 
point.  The  idea,  bowever,  is  inaccurate,  that  this  tract 
had  not  been  explored  until  a  recent  date,  or  that  these 
mountains  were  unknown  until  a  late  discovery.  Most  of 
these  scenes  have  been,  for  many  years,  familiar  to  innu 
merable  hunters,  pioneers  and  surveyors.  Most  of  these 
prominent  summits  are  visible  through  a  wide  territory 
(which  has  been  occupied  for  more  than  half  a  century), 
not  in  the  obscurity  of  distance,  but  in  the  full  exhibition 
of  their  majesty  and  glory. 

Mount  Marcy,  the  monarch  of  these  wilds,  towers  above 
the  surrounding  pinnacles,  in  a  beautiful  cone,  and  in  one 
view  nearly  an  acute  apex.  Ascending  above  every  contigu 
ous  object,  and  piercing  with  this  striking  formation  far  up 
ward  no  one  can  contemplate  it  without  recognizing  the  force 
and  appropriateness  of  its  name,  in  the  energetic  and  beauti 
ful  nomenclature  of  the  Indians.  They  called  the  towering 
mountain  projecting  its  acute  top  toward  the  heavens, 
Tahawus,  The  Cloud-splitter.  The  height  of  this  mountain, 


320  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

above  tide  water,  is  5,467  feet.  Another  eminence, 
Mount  Mclntyre,  supposed  to  fall  a  little  below  Mount 
Marcy  in  altitude,  perhaps  surpasses  it  in  ponderous 
magnificence,  and  presents  a  more  uniform,  massive  and 
compact  structure.  The  Dial  mountain,  Mount  Seward, 
McMartin,  Golden,  and  other  peaks  unmeasured,  of  appa 
rently  equal  if  not  greater  dimensions,  mingle  in  this 
cluster,  and  impress  a  stamp  of  Alpine  grandeur  upon  the 
scenery. 

A  lofty  range  known  as  the  Keene  mountains,  pre 
sents  a  peculiar  aspect;  dark,  broken,  and  frowning.  The 
"White-face  mountain,  in  the  majestic  Indian  dialect 
"Waho-partenie,  an  eminence  of  4,855  feet,1  stands  re 
mote  from  the  other  groups,  and  occupies  the  northern 
extremity  of  the  huge  mountain  belt  that  encircles  the 
town  of  North  Elba.  This  peak  from  its  rare  and  admira 
ble  proportions,  its  bald  summit,  solitary  isolation,  and  the 
vast  preeminence  of  its  height  above  surrounding  objects, 
is  a  beautiful  and  conspicuous  landmark,  over  a  wide 
horizon.  A  few  years  since  it  presented  a  spectacle  of  un- 
equaled  sublimity.  In  the  heat  and  drought  of  midsummer, 
the  combustible  materials  upon  its  summit  were  fired  by 
accident  or  design,  and  during  one  whole  night  the  confla 
gration  raged,  exhibiting  to  the  gaze  of  hundreds,  almost 
the  splendor  and  awfulness  of  a  volcanic  eruption  in  its 
wild  vehemence.  A  convenient  pathway  has  been  con 
structed  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain  from  which  a  mag 
nificent  view  is  commanded  over  a  wide  expanse  of 
territory. 

Public  sentiment  will  not  ratify  the  acts  of  private  men, 
-who  would  obliterate  the  aboriginal  names  of  the  great 
physical  features  of  this  continent,  and  substitute  those  of 
individuals,  however  eminent  their  political  position,  or 
excellent  and  esteemed  their  private  characters.  The  In 
dian  nomenclature  is  singularly  rich  in  its  force  and 

JA  recent  observation  gives  to  White-face  about  the  same  altitude  as 
Mount  Marcy. 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  321 

euphony,  and  in  the  beauty  and  illustrative  appropriateness 
of  its  designations.  The  names  they  have  attached  to 
physical  objects  will  soon  be  the  only  vestige  of  their  ex 
istence.  They  will  leave  no  other  monuments  of  their 
former  presence  upon  the  land  they  once  possessed,  and 
fondly  deemed  their  own  peculiar  heritage. 

LAKES. 

Lake  Champlain.  In  an  early  part  of  this  volume,  I 
glanced  at  the  military  aspect  and  commercial  importance 
of  Lake  Champlain.  The  rare  and  exceeding  beauty  of 
its  scenery  arrests  and  delights  the  observer.  On  the  east 
it  is  bounded  by  an  undulating  plain,  rich  in  a  high  and 
luxuriant  culture,  whilst  beyond  this,  the  horizon  is 
limited  by  the  bold  and  broken  outline  of  the  Green 
mountains.  On  the  western  border,  the  dark  and  tower 
ing  Adirondacs,  spread  far  into  the  interior,  here  and  there 
projecting  their  rugged  spurs  into  the  bosom  of  the  lake, 
and  often  forming  lofty  and  inaccessible  headlands,  covered 
with  forests,  or  exposing  bleak  and  frowning  masses  of 
naked  rock.  The  lake  ranges  in  width,  from  one  mile  to 
fifteen  miles.  It  is  studded  by  innumerable  islands  ;  some 
of  which  are  mere  rocky  projections;  others  clothed  in 
their  native  green  woods,  rest  like  gems  upon  the  waters, 
and  others  formed  by  alluvial  deposits,  are  unsurpassed  in 
their  native  loveliness,  or  in  their  exuberant  fertility. 

The  severity  of  a  northern  climate  closes  the  navigation 
of  this  lake  no  inconsiderable  portion  of  the  year.  The 
ice  usually  forms  upon  the  broadest  part  about  the  1st  of 
February,  and  remains,  in  an  average  of  years,  until  near 
the  middle  of  April.  The  navigation  is  suspended  for  a 
longer  period  by  the  ice  forming  earlier  and  remaining 
later  at  each  extremity.1  The  lake  occasionally  remains 
open  the  entire  winter.  The  transition  from  navigation  to 
the  transit  of  the  lake  upon  the  ice,  is  often  amazingly  sud 
den  ;  teams  having  crossed  its  broadest  part,  upon  the  ice 

1  Iddo  Osgood,  Esq. 
21 


322  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

the  fifth  day  after  it  had  been  passed  by  a  steamer.  The, 
ice  often  attains  great  thickness.  The  spectacle,  frequently 
afforded  by  this  vast  expanse  of  icy  surface,  is  singularly 
beautiful  and  exhilarating.  It  furnishes  for  several  weeks 
the  great  highway  of  business  and  pleasure.  Roads  di 
verging  from  every  point,  are  animate  with  activity  and 
excitement.  Long  trains  of  teams,  freighted  with  the 
commodities  of  the  country,  glide  easily  over  it,  whilst  the 
pleasure  sleigh  bounds  along  its  smooth  and  crystal  field, 
breaking  the  stillness  by  the  music  of  its  merry  bells. 
Little  danger  occurs  in  the  transit  of  the  ice,  except  in  the 
passage  of  the  cracks  or  fissures,  which  starting  from  the 
various  points  and  headlands,  rend  the  ice  asunder  with  a 
sound  and  concussion  like  the  reverberation  of  thunder,  or 
the  prolonged  discharge  of  ordnance.  These  fissures  en 
tirely  separate  the  ice,  and  are  designed  by  the  wise  pur 
poses  of  providence  to  strengthen  it,  by  affording  an 
escape  to  the  pent  up  air  beneath. 

The  balmy  atmosphere  and  warmer  sun  of  approaching 
spring,  affect  and  gradually  weaken  the  ice.  Traveling  on 
it,  then  becomes  hazardous,  and  is  often  attended  with 
great  jeopardy  and  frequent  loss  of  life  and  property.  The 
inhabitants,  residing  upon  the  shore  of  the  lake,  are  habi 
tuated  to  these  perils  and  familiar  to  the  modes  of  assist 
ance.  On  the  alarm  of  accidents,  they  rush  to  the  point 
of  danger,  with  prompt  and  efficient  zeal  bearing  ropes 
and  boards  and  other  requisite  articles,  and  rarely  fail  to 
extricate  the  sufferer,  when  the  scene  can  be  reached. 

The  final  breaking  up  of  the  ice  in  the  spring  often 
affords  a  spectacle  of  intense  interest.  The  evidences  are 
readily  recognized,  which  portend  the  event.  Its  surface 
exhibits  several  marked  and  peculiar  phases,  which  indicate 
the  progress  of  decay.  Its  usual  transparent  and  brilliant 
clearness  yields  to  a  dark  and  clouded  aspect.  This  is 
succeeded  by  a  soft  and  snowy  color,  as  the  moisture  leaves 
the  surface  and  penetrates  the  mass.  The  next  stage  in  its 
dissolution  is  exhibited  as  the  body  of  ice  becomes  porous 
and  losing  its  buoyancy,  sinks  to  the  level  of  the  water. 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  323 

Its  appearance  then  is  black  and  portentous,  and  can 
scarcely  be  contemplated  without  a  feeling  of  awe  and 
dread.  The  fissures  now  open  and  expand.  The  ice  sepa 
rates  into  larger  bodies,  and  driven  by  the  winds  in  immense 
fields,  is  broken  up,  and  often  piled  in  huge  masses  upon 
the  shores  where  it  remains  late  in  the  spring,  a  memorial 
of  the  passed  empire  of  winter.  At  other  times,  the  ice 
continues  nearly  entire,  until  saturated  with  water,  it  at 
once,  in  a  moment  as  it  were,  disappears,  dissolving  into  its 
original  element.  In  the  progress  of  dissolution  of  the  ice, 
a  singular  phenomenon  is  revealed.  The  mass  at  this  time, 
exhibits  a  combination  of  an  infinitude  of  parallel  crystals 
or  icicles,  arranged  in  a  perpendicular  formation,  and  each 
distinct  and  perfect,  extending  from  the  lower  side  to  the 
surface,  or  in  other  words,  from  the  water  to  the  atmosphere. 
These  particles  separate  from  each  other  in  the  process  of 
disintegration. 

A  day  of  jubilee  and  rejoicing  succeeds,  when  these  icy 
fetters  are  finally  broken  up,  and  intercourse  is  restored. 
The  advent  of  the  first  steamer  of  the  season,  always  reju 
venated  during  the  winter,  and  fresh  from  the  hands  of  the 
painter,  is  hailed  at  each  landing  by  joyous  shoutings  and 
often  by  the  booming  of  artillery. 

INTERIOR  LAKES  AND  EIVERS. 

The  numerous  lakes  and  gem-like  ponds,  that  stud  the 
surface  of  the  country  in  such  profusion,  not  only  diversify 
and  adorn  the  scenery,  but  are  the  source  of  the  vast  water 
power  so  essential  to  the  industrial  interest  and  prosperity 
of  the  country.  This  water,  chiefly  arising  from  springs, 
is  usually  cold,  clear,  and  pure.  Schroori  lake,  lying  partly 
in  Warren  country,  is  ten  miles  long  and  one  and  a  half 
broad,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  quiet  and  romantic  beauty. 
A  high,  precipitous  shore  encloses  it  on  the  east,  and  on 
the  west  a  cultivated  and  delightful  tract  spreads  its  fertile 
fields  down  to  the  brink.  This  lake  forms  the  reservoir 
to  the  waters  of  the  upper  Hudson.  It  is  already  the  chan 
nel  of  a  valuable  traffic,  and  will  become  highly  important 


324  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

to   the  rapidly  increasing  manufacturing  business  of  the 
district. 

Paradox  lake  is  situated  in  the  same  valley,  and  is 
separated  from  Schroon  lake  by  a  drift  or  alluvial,  of 
apparently  modern  formation.  Paradox  lake  occupies  the 
basin  of  hills  thjit  environ  it  in  a  gentle  ascent,  except  the 
narrow  passage  at  its  outlet,  which  is  a  confluent  of  the 
Schroon  river  and  nearly  on  a  level  with  it.  The  river, 
swollen  by  the  mountain  torrents,  often  rises  higher  than 
this  lake,  and  pours  its  waters  into  the  basin,  presenting 
the  paradoxical  appearance  of  a  stream  rushing  back  upon 
its  fountain  head.  The  lake  derives,  from  this  singular 
fact,  its  unique  but  not  inappropriate  name.  Directly  east 
of  Schroon  lake,  and  elevated  above  it  several  hundred 
feet,  lies  Lake  Pharaoh,  an  important  body  of  water,  sur 
rounded  by  a  group  of  dark  and  gloomy  mountains.  In 
this  vicinity  cluster  numerous  ponds,  the  fountain  heads 
of  valuable  streams. 

The  miniature  lakes  and  ponds,  which  repose  in  almost 
every  valley  among  the  Adirondacs,  and  form  the  head 
springs  of  the  Hudson,  possess  indescribable  romance  and 
beauty.  Now  they  are  embraced  and  hidden  by  dense 
and  unbroken  forests,  and  now  encompassed  by  lofty 
mountains,  whose  inaccessible  precipices  descend  into 
their  waters  by  a  nearly  vertical  wall,  and  now  slumbering 
in  the  bosom  of  some  lovely  and  picturesque  nook,  their 
mirrored  surface,  reflecting  this  varied  scenery,  is  alone 
broken  by  the  leaping  of  a  trout,  the  gambols  of  a  deer, 
or,  at  far  intervals,  by  the  oar  of  the  solitary  hunter. 
These  gentle  and  subduing  beauties  of  nature,  combined 
with  the  awe-imposing  and  thrilling  grandeur  of  their 
mountain  spectacles,  with  the  pure,  invigorating  and 
health-inspiring  air  which  envelops  them,  must  render 
these  solitudes  among  the  most  desirable  and  attractive 
resorts,  to  the  philosopher,  the  invalid  and  the  tourist  of 
pleasure. 

Lake  Placid,  situated  principally  in  North  Elba,  just 
touches  that  beautiful  valley,  in  the  incomparable  land- 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  325 

scape  of  which  it  forms  a  conspicuous  and  very  essential 
feature.  Its  great  expanse,  its  deep  and  transparent 
waters,  its  beautiful  proportions,  stretching  its  sinuosities 
along  bold  headlands  far  into  the  recesses  of  the  moun 
tains,  until  in  the  distant  view,  its  waters  seem  to  lave 
the  base  of  Whiteface,  although  in  fact  separated  from  it 
by  a  rich  valley  of  two  miles  in  width,  unite  to  render 
Lake  Placid  one  of  the  most  delightful  and  attractive 
objects  in  this  land  of  loveliness  and  silence.  A  small 
pond  connects  with  the  lake  by  a  narrow  channel;  this 
pond  has  no  other  inlet  or  outlet,  and  is  distinguished  by 
a  singular  circumstance.  The  water  flows  for  a  period  of 
two  or  three  minutes  from  the  lake  into  the  pond;  an 
interval  of  a  few  seconds  succeeds,  with  no  apparent 
motion  of  the  water ;  after  this,  for  the  same  time,  it  flows 
back  again  into  the  lake.  This  ebbing  and  flowing  is,  I 
believe,  perpetual.1  Lake  Placid  is  one  of  the  most 
important  heads  of  the  Au  Sable  river.  The  manufac 
turing  interest  on  the  line  of  that  stream,  has  erected  at 
the  outlet  of  the  lake,  an  expensive  and  ponderous  dam. 
This  work  forms  the  lake  into  a  capacious  reservoir,  and 
secures  a  permanent  supply  of  water,  at  all  seasons,  to  the 
immense  works  moved  by  the  Au  Sable. 

The  Au  Sable  ponds  form  the  loftiest  as  well  as  most 
important  reservoir  of  the  South  branch  of  the  Au  Sable 
river.  Lying  amid  the  acclivities  of  the  Adirondacs,  and 
buried  deeply  in  the  solitudes  of  forests,  which  have  yet 
scarcely  been  disturbed  by  the  movements  of  enterprise, 
these  waters  are  calculated,  when  more  fully  known,  to 
attract  the  attention  of  the  tourist  and  sportsman,  by  their 
solitariness,  their  beauty  and  sporting  wealth.  They  are 
four  or  five  miles  from  civilized  habitations.  Small  boats 
have  been  placed  upon  them,  to  facilitate  access  to  Mt. 
Marcy,  towards  which  they  afford  one  of  the  most  direct 
routes.  The  Upper  pond  is  classed  among  the  most  beau 
tiful  lakes  of  the  region.  The  state  some  years  ago 

1  T.  L.  Naah. 


326  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

erected  a  dam  on  the  outlet  of  these  ponds,  to  aid  the 
manufacturing  interests  of  the  district,  but  it  yielded  to 
the  pressure  of  a  sudden  and  extraordinary  accumulation 
of  water,  which  contributed  to  produce  a  flood,  that 
poured  upon  the  Au  Sable  valley,  in  wide  and  terrible 
desolation.1 

I  may  here  appropriately  refer  to  a  fact  of  some  philo 
sophical  interest  and  great  practical  importance.  In  the 
progress  of  my  survey,  I  have  observed,  in  repeated  in 
stances,  the  ruins  of  mills  and  dams,  which,  in  the  early 
occupation  of  the  county,  had  ample  water  power,  not  a 
vestige  of  which  now  remains  but  a  deep  and  worn  ravine 
that  once  formed  its  channel.  As  the  progress  of  agri 
cultural  and  manufacturing  improvements — before  which 
forests  are  leveled,  the  country  opened,  and  the  earth 
exposed  to  the  influence  of  the  sun  and  atmosphere  — 
advances,  springs  and  streams  will  be  dried  up,  and  it  will 
become  imperatively  necessary  to  adopt  artificial  means 
to  control  and  preserve  the  water  power  of  this  county. 

EIVERS. 

The  elevated  and  extended  highlands  of  Essex  county, 
naturally  form  the  great  water  shed  of  an  extended  terri 
tory.  In  their  recesses,  the  sources  of  the  Hudson  almost 
mingle  with  the  waters  that  flow  into  Champlain  and  the 
tributaries  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  A  rivulet  gurgling 
towards  the  Hudson,  discharges  from  one  extremity  of  the 
Indian  pass,  and  a  branch  of  the  Au  Sable  from  the  oppo 
site.  A  pond  lying  amid  the  rocks,  hundreds  of  feet  above 
the  pass,  pours  its  waters  into  a  confluent  of  the  St.  Law 
rence.  The  streams  of  a  district,  like  Essex  county,  broken 
and  mountainous,  will  be  numerous,  but  turbulent  and  pre 
cipitous.  These  characteristics  are  eminently  useful  in  the 
aspect  of  a  manufacturing  interest.  Wherever  the  demands 
of  business  require  water  power  in  the  county,  it  exists  or 
can  be  at  once  created. 

1  Mr.  George  S.  Potter. 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  327 

The  tributaries  of  the  Hudson  traverse  every  section  of 
the  southwestern  portion  of  the  country,  and  afford  illi 
mitable  facilities  to  various  mechanical  and  other  industrial 
occupations.  Putnam's  creek,  formed  by  the  lakes  and 
ponds  in  the  mountains  of  the  interior,  courses  a  distance 
of  twenty  miles,  supplying  the  power  to  numerous  works 
and  enters  the  lake  at  Crown  point.  The  Boquet  inter 
laces,  by  its  numerous  branches,  the  central  portion  of  the 
county,  and  affording,  in  a  course  of  forty-five  miles, 
unnumbered  water  privileges,  discharges  into  the  lake 
at  Willsboro'.  Several  of  the  most  extensive  and  valua 
ble  manufacturing  works  in  the  county  are  established 
upon  this  stream.  The  Boquet  was  formerly  navigable 
to  the  falls,  a  distance  of  three  miles,  by  the  largest  ves 
sels  upon  the  lake.  Its  channel,  now  changed  and  ob 
structed,  only  admits,  at  favorable  periods  of  the  year,  the 
lightest  crafts. 

Lake  George  penetrates  Essex  county  several  miles,  and 
discharges  through  an  outlet  of  about  three  miles  and  a 
half  in  length,  into  Lake  Champlain,  by  a  strong,  deep, 
and  equable  stream,  which  is  navigable  to  the  lower  falls. 
This  stream,  in  its  course  from  Lake  George  to  the  falls, 
forms  a  most  extraordinary  water  power,  in  some  pecu 
liarities,  without  a  parallel.  It  discharges  per  second  a 
volume  of  water,  exceeding  four  hundred  feet,  along  a 
natural  canal  of  one  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  making 
chiefly  by  a  gradual  descent,  a  fall  of  two  hundred  and 
twenty  feet.  Through  almost  its  whole  course  water 
wheels,  connected  with  machinery,  may  be  dropped  from 
its  elevated  rocky  banks,  into  the  stream,  and  propelled 
almost  without  any  artificial  arrangement.  The  sloping 
banks  of  Lake  George  form  an  immense  receptacle  where 
the  excess  of  water  is  accumulated,  and  gradually  dis 
charges.  Hence,  no  freshets  can  endanger  the  works  upon 
its  outlet,  but  a  uniform  and  permanent  supply  of  water  is 
secured  at  all  seasons,  and  under  all  circumstances.  This 
stream  rarely  varies  three  feet  from  its  ordinary  level. 


328  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

The  warmth  of  the  water,  and  the  rapidity  of  the  cur 
rent  prevent  every  obstruction  from  ice  to  the  wheel. 
The  water  may  be  diffused  laterally,  and  its  power  mul 
tiplied  to  any  extent.  The  great  and  rare  purity  of 
the  water  renders  it  particularly  adapted  to  those  manu 
factories  which  require  dyeing,  bleaching  and  print 
ing  facilities.  In  combination  with  all  these  singular 
advantages,  this  position  commands  the  commercial  tho 
roughfare  formed  by  the  lakes;  it  may  reach  the  immense 
forests  extending  far  into  the  interior,  spreading  on  each 
side  of  Lake  George ;  it  has,  within  its  own  environs,  a 
rich  and  abundant  mineral  region,  and  has  near  and  easy 
access  to  the  vast  iron  deposits  of  the  Moriah  district. 

Such  harmony  in  its  arrangements,  so  great  and  re 
markable  advantages  in  the  bounties  of  providence,  are 
rarely  combined.  The  utilitarian  spirit  of  the  age,  the 
interests  of  business  and  enterprise,  would  long  since  have 
converted  these  neglected  privileges  into  elements  of  pro 
sperity  and  wealth;  but  the  blight  of  foreign  ownership  has 
paralyzed  those  high  bounties.  The  cupidity  or  grossly 
mistaken  and  pernicious  policy  of  these  proprietors  has 
imposed  terms  so  exacting,  as  to  repel  through  a  long  term 
of  years  almost  every  purpose  of  an  adequate  occupation  of. 
these  advantages. 

The  two  main  branches  of  the  Au  Sable  river,  nearly  equal 
in  size  and  importance,  rise  principally  in  the  western  part 
of  Essex  county,  and  by  their  numerous  and  wide  spread 
confluents  drain  a  territory  of  about  eight  hundred  square 
miles.  These  branches  unite  at  Au  Sable  Forks  and  roll 
along  the  Au  Sable  valley  a  motive  power  that  impels 
varied  and  extensive  industrial  pursuits  equal  to  any  other 
stream  within  the  state  of  no  greater  extent  and  capacity. 
The  river  Saranac  penetrates  Essex  county  from  Franklin 
near  the  line  that  divides  the  towns  of  North  Elba  and  St. 
Armands,  and  crossing  the  latter  diagonally,  enters  Clinton 
county.  Gliding  along  high  level  banks,  with  scarcely  a 
perceptible  current,  it  exhibits  almost  the  form  and  aspect 
of  an  artificial  canal.  It  is  navigable  in  Essex  county 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  329 

about  fifteen  miles  by  small  boats,  and  probably  by  sligbt 
improvement  might  be  adapted  to  tbe  passage  of  the 
smaller  class  of  screw  steamers. 

NATURAL  CURIOSITIES. 

Indian  pass.  The  mighty  convulsions  which  have  up 
heaved  the  lofty  mountains  of  this  region,  or  rent  asunder 
the  barriers  that  enclosed  the  seas,  which  washed  their 
cliffs,  have  left  impressive  vestiges  of  their  power,  in  the 
striking  natural  phenomena  spread  over  the  country. 
None  of  them  afford  more  wonderful  exhibitions  of  those 
terrific  agencies,  or  more  imposing  beauty  and  magnifi 
cence,  than  a  remarkable  gorge,  known  as  the  Indian 
pass,  in  the  impressive  aboriginal  Otneyarh,  the  Stony 
Giants.  It  occupies  a  narrow  ravine,  formed  by  a  rapid 
acclivity  of  Mount  McMartin  on  one  side,  rising  at  an 
angle  of  forty-five  degrees,  and  on  the  opposite  by  the 
dark  naked  wall  of  a  vertical  precipice,  towering  to  an 
altitude  of  eight  hundred  to  one  thousand  two  hundred 
feet  from  its  base,  and  extending  more  than  a  mile  in 
length.  The  base  itself  is  elevated  about  two  thousand 
five  hundred  feet  above  tide  water.  The  deep  and  ap 
palling  gorge  is  strewn  and  probably  occupied  for  several 
hundred  feet,  with  gigantic  fragments  hurled  into  it  from 
the  impending  cliffs,  by  some  potent  agency.  The  elements 
still  advance  the  process.  So  exact  and  wonderful  is  the 
stupendous  masonry  of  this  bulwark,  that  it  seems,  could 
human  nerve  allow  the  effort,  a  stone  dropped  from  the 
summit,  might  reach  the  base  without  striking  an  impedi 
ment.  The  pencil  cannot  portray,  nor  language  describe, 
the  full  grandeur  and  sublimity  of  this  spectacle.  The 
deep  seclusion,  the  wild  solitude  of  the  place,  awe  and 
impress.  Many  miles  from  human  habitation,  nature  here 
reigns  in  her  primitive  silence  and  repose.  The  eagles 
form  their  eyries  amid  these  inaccessible  cliffs,  and  seem 
like  some  humble  bird  as  they  hover  over  the  deep  abyss. 
The  heavy  forests  that  clothe  the  steeps  of  McMartin,  and 
shroud  the  broken  and  confused  masses  of  rock  in  the 


330  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

gorge,  add  to  the  gloom  and  solemnity  of  these  dark 
recesses.  A  tiny  rivulet  just  starting  from  its  birthplace 
amid  these  solitudes,  chafes  and  frets  along  its  rocky  pas 
sage,  in  its  course  to  the  Hudson.  A  ravine  lying  among 
the  Adirondacs,  near  Keeseville  and  known  as  Poke-0- 
Moonshine  (the  origin  or  meaning  of  this  euphonious 
name  I  have  not  been  able  to  trace),  presents  a  feeble  copy 
of  the  Indian  pass  in  reduced  proportions. 

The  Wilmington  Notch.  The  western  branch  of  the  Au 
Sable  breaks  through  its  mountain  bulwarks,  in  a  scene 
almost  as  thrilling  and  impressive  as  the  Indian  Pass.  The 
river  compressed  within  a  narrow  passage  of  a  few  feet,  in 
width,  becomes  here  an  impetuous  torrent,  foams  and 
dashes  along  the  base  of  a  precipitous  wall,  formed  by 
Whiteface  mountain,  which  towers  above  it,  in  nearly  a 
perpendicular  ascent  of  thousands  of  feet,  whilst  on  the 
other  side  it  almost  laves  the  abrupt,  naked  and  rugged 
crags,  of  another  lofty  precipice.  Bursting  through  this 
obstacle,  it  leaps  into  an  abyss  of  more  than  one  hundred 
feet  in  depth,  so  dark  and  impervious  from  mantling  trees, 
and  impending  rocks,  that  the  eye  cannot  penetrate  its 
hidden  cavern.  A  road  which  has  been  recently  constructed 
through  the  pass,  renders  this  remarkable  spot  easily 
accessible  to  the  tourist ;  and  I  can  imagine  few  scenes 
more  attractive  by  its  wild  and  romantic  beauty,  or  its 
stern  and  appalling  grandeur.  Nearly  the  whole  course  of 
the  Au  Sable  and  its  branches  presents  a  series  of  falls, 
cascades  and  rapids,  which,  whilst  they  adorn  and  animate 
the  scenery,  afforded  innumerable  sites  of  water  power, 
rarely  exceeded  in  capacity  and  position. 

Watted  Banks  of  the  Au  Sable.  The  passage  of  the  Au 
Sable  river,  along  its  lofty  and  perpendicular  banks  and 
through  the  chasm  at  the  High  bridge  is  more  familiar 
to  the  public  mind,  than  most  of  the  striking  and  pictu 
resque  features  in  the  interesting  scenery  of  that  romantic 
stream.  The  continued  and  gradual  force  of  the  current, 
aided  perhaps  by  some  vast  effort  of  nature,  has  formed  a 
passage  of  the  river  through  the  deep  layers  of  sandstone 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  331 

rock,  which  are  boldly  developed  above  the  village  of  Keese- 
ville,  and  form  the  embankment  of  the  river,  until  it 
reaches  the  quiet  basin  below  the  high  bridge.  In  the 
vicinity  of  Keeseville,  the  passage  of  the  stream  is  between 
a  wall  upon  either  side  of  fifty  feet  in  height ;  leaving  these 
it  glides  gently  along  a  low  valley,  until  suddenly  precipi 
tated  over  a  precipice,  that  creates  a  fall  of  singular  beauty. 
Foaming  and  surging  from  this  point,  over  a  rocky  bed 
until  it  reaches  the  village  of  Birmingham,  it  then  abruptly 
bursts  into  a  dark,  deep  chasm  of  sixty  feet.  A  bridge 
with  one  abutment  setting  upon  a  rock  that  divides  the 
stream,  crosses  the  river  at  the  head  of  this  fall.  This 
bridge  is  perpetually  enveloped  in  a  thick  cloud  of  spray 
and  mist.  In  winter,  the  frost  work  encrusts  the  rock  and 
trees,  with  the  most  gorgeous  fabrics,  myriads  of  columns 
and  arches,  and  icy  diamonds  and  stalactites  glitter  in  the 
sunbeams.  In  the  sunshine  a  brilliant  rainbow  spreads 
its  radiant  arc  over  this  deep  abyss.  All  these  elements, 
rare  in  their  combination,  shed  upon  this  scene  an  effect 
inexpressibly  wild,  picturesque  and  beautiful.  The  river 
plunges  from  the  latter  precipice,  amid  the  embrasures  of 
the  vast  gulf,  in  which  for  nearly  a  mile  it  is  nearly  hidden 
to  observation  from  above.  It  pours  a  wild  torrent,  now 
along  a  natural  canal,  formed  in  the  rocks  in  almost  per 
fect  and  exact  courses,  and  now  darts  madly  down  a 
precipice.  The  wall  rises  on  a  vertical  face  upon  each  side 
from  seventy-five  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  whilst  the 
width  of  the  chasm  rarely  exceeds  thirty  feet,  and  at  seve 
ral  points  the  stupendous  masonry  of  the  opposite  walls 
approaches  within  eight  or  ten  feet.  Lateral  fissures,  deep 
and  narrow,  project  from  the  main  ravine  at  nearly  right 
angles.  The  abyss  is  reached  through  one  of  these  crevices 
by  a  stairway  descending  to  the  water  by  two  hundred  and 
twelve  steps.  The  entire  mass  of  these  walls  is  formed 
of  laminae  of  sandstone  rock,  laid  in  regular  and  precise 
structure  almost  rivaling  the  most  accurate  artificial  work. 
The  pines  and  cedars  starting  from  the  apertures  of  the 
wall,  spread  a  dark  canopy  over  the  gulf.  The  instrument- 


332  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

ality,  which  has  produced  this  wonderful  work,  is  a  pro 
blem  that  presents  a  wide  scope  for  interesting,  but  unsatis 
factory  speculation. 

A  report  of  the  state  geologist  asserts,  "  that  near  the 
bottom  of  the  fissure  at  the  High  bridge,  and  through  an 
extent  of  seventy  feet,  numerous  specimens  of  a  small 
bivalvular  molusca,  or  lingulse,"  are  discovered,  and 
"  that  ripple  marks  appear  at  the  depth  of  seventy  or 
eighty  feet." 

Split  rock.  Travelers  in  passing  through  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  observe  in  the  town  of  Essex,  a  remarkable  point, 
known  to  the  French  as  Rocher  fendu,  and  to  the  English, 
as  Split  rock.  It  contains  about  half  an  acre  of  land,  and 
rising  thirty  feet  above  the  water,  in  a  bold,  precipitous 
front,  is  separated  from  the  promontory  by  a  fissure  of  ten 
feet  in  width.  Its  slope  and  position  have  created  the 
belief,  that  it  has  been  detached  from  the  adjacent 
headland  by  its  own  weight,  and  in  some  shock  of  nature, 
although  it  has  probably  been  separated  in  the  gradual 
attrition  of  the  earth  and  disintegrating  rocks,  by  the 
action  of  the  elements.  It  is  a  striking  and  interesting 
formation.  Guide  books,  and  some  works  of  high  pre 
tensions,  describe  an  abyss  of  five  hundred  feet  in  depth, 
dividing  the  rock  from  the  promontory.  I  visited  it  last 
autumn,  and  walked  through  the  fissure,  two  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  lake. 

Near  Port  Kendall,  in  Chesterfield,  another  of  these 
remarkable  phenomena  occurs,  to  which  frequent  allu 
sion  has  been  made.  The  outlets  of  several  ponds  upon 
these  highlands,  unite  in  a  stream  which  forms  at  this 
place,  a  very  superior  water  power,  directly  upon  the 
margin  of  Lake  Champlain.  The  water  rushes  a  distance 
of  forty  or  fifty  rods  above  the  falls,  through  a  chasm, 
which  appears  to  have  been  opened  by  some  mighty  phy 
sical  convulsion.  It  presents  a  gulf  sixty  or  seventy  feet 
wide,  with  a  depth  of  thirty  or  forty  feet.1  At  the  extre- 

lLem  Higby,  Esq. 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  333 

mity  of  this  passage,  the  stream  plunges  into  the  lake  over 
a  precipice  of  about  forty  feet.  A  similar  spectacle  known 
as  Split  rock,  is  exhibited  near  Pleasant  valley,  where  the 
whole  volume  of  the  Boquet  rushes  through  a  ravine  of 
this  character. 

The  Hainbow  Falls.  This  remarkable  cascade  is  situated 
in  Keene  within  a  mile  of  the  romantic  Au  Sable  ponds  and 
forms  a  striking  feature  of  that  wild  picturesque  region. 
It  is  upon  Rainbow  brook,  a  small  tributary  of  the  South 
branch  of  the  Au  Sable  river.     The  fall  is  computed  from 
careful  observation  to  be  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  in 
sheer  vertical  descent.    The  site  is  separated  from  the  Keene 
flats,  the  nearest  human  residence,  by  a  dense  forest  three  or 
four  miles  in  extent,  and  is  hidden  in  the  recesses  of  the 
vast   wilderness  of  the   Adirondacs.     It  is  embraced   in 
the  extensive  tract  of  timber  land  recently  purchased  by 
Messrs.  Thomas  &  Armstrong,  and  is  now  first  revealed 
to  general  knowledge.     The  falls  are  at  present  only  accessi 
ble  by  a  path  through  the  forest;  but  they  have  already  ex 
cited  the  attention  of  the  artist  and  explorer,  and  it  is  in 
contemplation  to  immediately  open  by  convenient  roads,  a 
district  that  will  be  regarded  not  among  the  least  attrac 
tive  or  interesting  in  the  Adirondac  region,  to  the  sports 
man  and  the  worshiper  of  nature,  in  her  secluded  temples.1 
The  Hunter's  pass.  This  gorge  lies  in  the  town  of  North 
Hudson,  and  is  formed  by  the  deep,  parallel  precipices  of 
Dix's  peak  and  Nipple  top,  which  are  among  the  highest 
and  most  sequestered  mountains  of  the  Adirondacs.     It  is 
similar  to  the  Indian  Pass,  and  second  only  to  that  amazing 
exhibition  in  its  sublime  and  imposing  features.     This  pass 
is  rarely  penetrated  even  by  the 'hunter,  and  at  a  very  late 
period  only  has  been   visited  for  the  specific  purpose  of 
exploration.     It  is   buried   several   miles   deeper   in    the 
mazes  of  these  forests  and  mountains  than  the  Au  Sable 
ponds  or  Rainbow  falls,  but  is  sufficiently  near  these  points 
to  enhance  the  attraction  of  the  district,  when  it  sball  have 

1  Almon  Thomas,  George  8.  Potter. 


334  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

become  a  new  object  of  interest  and  resort.  The  scene 
can  now  only  be  reached  by  the  severest  toil  of  several 
miles  (but  the  feat  has  been  achieved  by  brave  and  delicate 
woman)  and  when  this  is  accomplished,  the  dense  forest, 
the  masses  of  rocks  and  their  mosses,  and  their  debris 
gathered  for  ages,  renders  the  gorge  almost  impenetrable.1 
These  successive  revelations  in  the  physical  aspect  of  the 
county,  illustrate  the  profound  seclusion  and  great  extent 
of  the  wilderness,  and  warrant  the  opinion,  that  other  objects 
of  deep  interest  remain  in  its  recesses  yet  to  be  unveiled. 
It  is  believed  that  several  of  the  most  secluded  peaks  of 
the  Adirondacs  have  never  been  ascended.  This  circum 
stance  becomes  still  more  impressive,  if  upon  a  map 
of  the  state,  one  point  of  the  dividers  graduated  at  one 
hundred  miles,  is  placed  at  the  Capitol,  and  we  find  on 
describing  a  circle,  that  it  traces  a  line  through  the  central 
part  of  the  Adirondac  group.  Mount  Marcy  and  other 
prominent  objects  we  have  noticed,  lie  scarcely  beyond 
this  circle. 

Two  very  remarkable  subterranean  passages  in  the 
town  of  Schroon  near  Paradox  lake  are  worthy  of  examina 
tion.  The  first  of  these  forms  the  channel  of  a  small 
rivulet,  by  a  natural  perforation  of  some  hundred  feet 
through  the  massive  rock,  ten  or  fifteen  feet  below  the  sur 
face,  over  which  passes  the  public  road,  as  if  by  an  artificial 
bridge.  The  other,  which  I  find  referred  to  in  early  works 
on  the  topography  of  this  region,  is  a  highly  curious  and 
interesting  exhibition.  The  explorer  enters  a  lofty  arch, 
several  feet  below  the  surface,  carved  out  of  the  solid 
rock.  It  presents,  at  some  points,  the  appearance  of 
nearly  an  exact  gothic  structure,  and  at  others,  broken 
and  ragged  sides  and  canopy.  This  dark  and  gloomy 
cavern  extend^  a  number  of  rods,  and  is  from  four  to 
twelve  feet  in  width,  and  ten  to  fifteen  in  height.  It  con 
stitutes  the  sluice  way  of  a  large  stream,  which  propels  a 

1  The  Elizabethtown  Post. 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  335 

mill   just   above   the   entrance,   and   foams    and   dashes 
through  the  rocky  and  precipitous  descent. 

Trout  are  often  found  in  pools  within  this  passage, 
which  are  formed  by  the  obstructions  to  the  stream  in  its 
course. 

Inflammable  Gas.  A  striking  phenomenon  is  noticed  in 
Schroon  lake.  In  parts  of  that  picturesque  and  beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  inflammable  gases  are  emitted  from  the 
bottom,  where  the  water  is  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  deep. 
When  the  surface  is  frozen  over,  the  gas  collects  in 
various  insulated  bodies  beneath  the  ice,  where  it  can 
be  readily  discovered.  If  a  small  aperture  is  cut  in 
»the  ice  above  one  of  these  collections,  the  gas  rushes 
forth  with  violence,  and  when  a  match  is  applied  to  it, 
the  gas  ignites  and  flames  up  in  a  brilliant  fiery  column 
eight  feet  high,  and  continues  to  burn,  usually,  from  five 
to  fifteen  minutes  or  until  the  receptable  is  exhausted. 
In  the  summer,  the  gas  rises  to  the  surface  at  intervals, 
producing  a  strong  ebullition  of  the  water,  which  con 
tinues  about  five  minutes,  when  it  ceases  and  the  lake 
becomes  as  cairn  as  usual.  Sometimes  burning  shavings 
have  been  thrust  into  the  gas  before  it  is  dissipated, 
when  it  instantly  takes  fire  and  bursts  into  a  flame  that 
ascends  several  feet  high  and  spreads  along  the  surface  of 
the  lake  frequently  two  rods.1 

THE  WILDERNESS  OF  NORTHERN  NEW  YORK. 

This  remarkable  territory  has  not,  until  a  comparative 
recent  period,  attracted  any  considerable  public  attention. 
The  mind  can  scarcely  comprehend  the  fact,  that  a  dis 
trict  equal  in  size  to  the  superficial  area  of  several  of  the 
separate  states  of  the  Union,  lies  in  the  bosom  of  New 

1 1  am  indebted  to  Hon.  Joel  F.  Potter  for  the  above  statements.  In 
his  note  he  mentions  the  following  additional  facts  :  "  A  neighbor  of  mine 
cut  a  large  opening  in  the  ice,  but  was  somewhat  slow  in  lighting  his 
match.  When  he  did  apply  it,  the  gas  had  accumulated  and  he  was  thrown 
back  by  its  sudden  ignition  about  eight  feet,  with  the  lost  of  whiskers  and 
eye-brows."  He  relates  another  experiment  in  which  the  gas  was  collected 


336  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

York,  touching  on  one  extremity  the  long  occupied  and 
densely  populated  valley  of  the  Mohawk,  and  encircled  by 
a  highly  cultivated  and  matured  country,  is  still  shrouded 
by  its  primeval  forest,  and  remains  almost  as  it  came  from 
the  hands  of  its  Creator.  This  territory  embraces  nearly 
all  Hamilton  county,  and  parts  of  Herkimer,  Oneida, 
Lewis,  St.  Lawrence,  Franklin,  Essex,  and  Warren,  and 
extends  over  one  hundred  miles  in  length,  and  about 
eighty  miles  in  breadth. 

Nature  reigns  in  this  wilderness,  in  her  primeval  seclu 
sion  and  solitude.  The  daring  hunter  alone  formerly 
penetrated  its  mazes  in  pursuit  of  its  only  denizens,  the 
moose,  the  bear,  the  panther,  and  deer.  The  fisherman, 
whose  ardor  leads  him  to  the  deep  recesses  of  the  forest, 
breaks  the  quiet  repose  of  these  lakes  and  rivers,  but 
within  the  boundaries  of  this  sequestered  region,  man  has 
scarcely  an  abode,  in  his  civilization  and  improvements. 
A  portion  of  this  territory  is  mountainous  and  impracticable 
to  culture.  Here,  as  I  have  already  remarked,  the  highest 
group  of  mountains  east  of  the  Mississippi,  lift  their  pinna 
cles  to  the  skies.  The  sheer  and  lofty  precipice,  the  dash- 
iug  torrent,  the  sylvan  lake  and  the  boundless  ocean  of 
forest,  combine  to  form  a  scenery,  which  is  unrivaled  in 
its  magnificence  and  beauty.  The  votaries  and  admirers 
of  nature  will  learn  to  visit  these  scenes^  and  will  gaze  on 
them  with  wonder  and  delight. 

The  existence  of  this  range  of  mountains,  imposing  and 
magnificent  as  it  is,  enveloping  in  its  gigantic  folds,  the 
rich  and  beautiful  region  beyond,  and  to  the  approach  of 
which  it  seemed  to  impose  an  impenetrable  bar,  has  given 
rise  to  the  opinions  and  estimates  of  that  entire  territory, 
which  prevail.  Eminent  men,  in  supreme  ignorance  of 
the  character  of  this  district,  have  sneered  at  it,  as  the 

and  retained  in  a  rude  receptacle.  "  We  have  cut  a  hole  in  the  ice,  and 
placed  a  barrel  over  it,  with  the  lower  head  on.  Around  this,  snow  was 
piled,  and  a  gas  burner  attached  to  the  upper  head  of  the  barrel,  protected 
by  a  glass  lantern.  With  this  apparatus  the  gas  from  one  of  the  collections 
referred  to  has  burnt  nearly  a  whole  night." 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  337 

Siberia  of  New  York,  little  aware  of  the  illimitable 
wealth  which  must  be  revealed,  not  only  in  its  immense 
forests,  of  the  most  valuable  wood  and  timber,  and  its 
boundless  mineral  riches,  but  in  the  adaptation  of  large 
sections  of  it  to  agricultural  purposes.  Other  men,  im 
pelled  by  their  example,  have  habitually  indulged  in  sar 
casm  and  ridicule,  upon  the  character  and  resources  of 
northern  New  York.  These  and  similar  views,  have  cre 
ated  impressions  relative  to  the  soil,  the  capabilities  and 
climate  of  this  territory,  which  have  arrested  emigration, 
and  induced  the  board  of  land  commissioners  of  the  state, 
in  an  unwise  and  mistaken  policy,  to  sacrifice  by  inade 
quate  sales  a  large  proportion  of  the  public  domain,  which 
had  been  consecrated  by  our  fathers,  to  a  noble  and  glori 
ous  purpose  —  the  education  of  our  children. 

I  am  anxious  to  correct  those  opinions,  where  I  regard 
them  to  be  false,  and  briefly  to  describe  the  physical  fea 
tures,  the  topographical  arrangement,  the  agricultural  and 
industrial  capacity  of  this  wilderness  district.  It  is  known 
that  a  part  of  this  tract  is  situated  within  the  limits  of 
Essex  county,  and  that  it  embraces  the  loftiest  mountains 
of  the  Adirondacs.  This  range,  stretching  into  Hamilton 
and  the  southern  section  of  Franklin  counties,  partially 
bounds  the  table  land  on  the  south. 

The  fertile  and  beautiful  plains  of  North  Elba,  on  the 
eastern  side  of  this  district,  are  encircled  by  a  lofty  amphi 
theatre  of  these  mountains.  This  territory,  I  have  suffi 
ciently  described  in  another  place,  and  have  attempted  to 
show  by  an  analogy  with  some  sections  of  Vermont,  of 
nearly  the  same  altitude,  and  which  constitute  a  part  of  the 
most  valuable  and  productive  districts  of  that  state,  the 
great  importance  and  adaptedness  of  these  plains  to  culti 
vation.  These  mountains  abound  with  ores,  and  are 
mantled  to  their  summits  by  forests  of  the  heaviest  timber 
and  choicest  varieties  of  wood.  Such  is  the  present  condi 
tion  and  aspect  of  this  region,  in  the  county  of  Essex,  and 
these  are  some  of  its  natural  resources.  Beyond  the  con- 

99 


338  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

fines  of  this  county,  it  reveals  another  appearance.  The 
broken  and  rocky  range  of  mountains  subsides  into  a  high 
plateau,  with  a  fertile  soil,  adapted  by  its  ingredients  and 
formation  to  tillage  and  more  particularly  to  grazing. 
The  plains  of  North  Elba  extend  to,  and  unite  with  this 
territory,  forming  an  expansion  of  the  plateau,  in  the  bosom 
of  the  mountains  over  an  area  of  about  one  hundred  square 
miles. 

The  systems  of  lakes,  which  extend  over  this  territory 
and  yield  to  it  so  much  beauty  and  animation,  and  almost 
mingle  their  waters,  form  the  sources  of  the  Hudson,  of 
many  affluents  of  the  Mohawk  and  the  Black  river.  Here 
also,  are  the  fountain  heads  of  the  Oswegatchie,  the  Grass, 
the  Raquette  and  St.  Regis  rivers,  large  and  important 
streams,  which  discharge  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the 
Saranac,  Au  Sable  and  Boquet,  which  flow  into  Lake 
Champlain. 

The  project  of  forming,  in  the  connection  of  these 
streams  and  lakes  by  slight  artificial  constructions,  an 
inland  water  communication,  designed  to  open  to  enter 
prise  and  emigration  the  solitudes  of  this  wilderness,  I 
shall  notice  elsewhere. 

The  Black  River  canal  skirts  this  territory  on  the  west. 
The  existing  and  proposed  rail  roads  from  Utica  and  Rome, 
in  a  northern  direction,  traverse  its  western  borders.  The 
Saratoga  and  Sackets  Harbor  rail  road,  now  in  progress, 
and  which  has  been  fostered  by  a  magnificent  bounty  of 
five  hundred  thousand  acres  from  the  state  lands,  will,  it  is 
estimated,  penetrate  for  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  through  the  heart  of  an  unbroken  wilderness. 
It  will  thread  the  mazes  of  this  sequestered  tract,  along  the 
base  of  lofty  mountains  (towering  above  it  thousands  of 
feet),  through  dense  forests  and  amid  the  loveliest  lakes 
and  rivers.  The  original  contemplated  route  of  this  road 
traverses  the  south-western  section  of  Essex  county, 
through  the  rich  and  important  town  of  Minerva,  and 
approaches  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Adirondac  works, 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  339 

and  will  thus  render  accessible   the  boundless  wealth  of 
that  amazing  district. 

The  most  effective  and  decisive  work,  however,  for  the 
development  of  the  entire  region,  would  be  created  by  the 
extraordinary  reconnaissance  referred  to  on  another  page. 
This  subject  I  propose  to  notice  elsewhere. 

On  every  side,  the  slow  but  constant  progress  of  im 
provement  and  cultivation  is  invading  the  wilderness. 
The  pioneer  of  agriculture  is  each  year  occupying  the 
haunts  of  the  hunter,  and  gradually  supplanting  him. 
The  valuable  town  of  Greig,  in  Lewis  county,  now  embrac 
ing  a  population  of  about  nineteen  hundred  inhabitants, 
has  within  comparatively  a  few  years,  been  carved  from  the 
silent  forest. 

This  wilderness  is  distinguished  for  the  healthiness  of 
its  climate.  There  prevails  in  the  atmosphere,  which 
envelops  these  mountains,  a  pureness,  an  elasticity  and 
vitality  that  imparts  health,  and  affords  an  indescribable 
physical  enjoyment  in  the  mechanical  process  of  inspira 
tion  ;  the  lungs  are  filled,  and  perform  their  functions 
without  effort  or  labor.  In  my  explorations  of  the  coun 
try,  I  have  met  with  repeated  instances  of  individuals, 
who  had  reached  their  forest  homes,  in  advanced  stages 
of  pulmonary  affection,  in  whom  the  disease  had  been 
arrested,  and  the  sufferer  restored  to  comparative  health. 
They  uniformly  imputed  the  change  to  the  influence  of 
the  atmosphere,  and  to  the  soothing  and  invigorating 
effect  of  the  peculiar  property  referred  to.  No  invalid 
enters  these  solitudes  without  experiencing  upon  his  sys 
tem  this  strengthening  and  renovating  influence.  The 
atmosphere  can  be  impregnated  by  no  noxious  miasmas, 
but  is  poured  down  from  the  summits  of  these  stately 
mountains,  fresh  and  pure,  and  life  giving  as  it  comes 
from  the  laboratory  of  nature. 

Parts  of  the  southern  section  of  this  territory  in  Warren 
and  Hamilton  counties,  particularly  where  the  lofty  group 
of  Mt.  Seward  upheave  and  dislocate  the  surface,  are  high, 


340  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

broken  and  mountainous.  With  this  exception,  and  the 
portions  of  Essex  county  already  described,  the  altitude 
of  the  country  is  lower  than  the  plains  of  North  Elba,  but 
it  still  has  an  elevation  which  sensibly  affects  the  climate ; 
far  less,  however,  than  has  been  imputed  by  an  erroneous 
public  opinion.  That  this  severity  is  not  extreme,  or 
such  as  to  repel  occupation,  may  be  judged  from  the 
fact,  that  for  many  years,  while  the  visitors  to  this  region 
were  limited,  the  hunters  and  guides  were  accustomed  to 
procure  their  supply  of  potatoes  from  the  spontaneous 
growth  of  the  vegetable,  gathered  in  the  earth,  and  which 
had  sprung  from  the  peelings  left  upon  the  surface  the 
preceding  year. 

Like  every  new  country,  in  northern  latitudes,  which  i& 
shrouded  by  a  thick  and  heavy  vegetation,  this  tract  is 
now  far  more  liable  to  the  effects  of  cold  and  frost,  than 
it  will  be,  when  the  advance  of  improvement  has  removed 
the  massive  forests,  and  exposed  the  earth  to  the  influence 
of  heat  and  light.  The  face  of  this  country  is  represented 
by  those  who  have  thoroughly  explored  it,  to  be  formed 
of  a  series  of  plains,  or  high  valleys,  distinct  in  their 
arrangement,  and  slightly  elevated  one  above  the  other. 

The  streams,  particularly  those  which  are  affluents  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  flow  in  a  strong,  but  neither  rapid  nor 
violent  current,  generally  between  high  banks,  and  through 
a  level  and  beautiful  country.  The  land  bordering  upon 
these  streams  is  chiefly  occupied  by  dense  and  stately 
forests,  comprehending  the  most  magnificent  and  valuable 
evergreen  timber,  and  the  choicest  varieties  of  hard  wood. 
These  forests  are  not  unfrequently  interspersed  with  wide 
and  beautiful  wet  prairies,  or  natural  meadows,  spreading 
along  the  margin  of  the  rivers,  and  presenting  in  their 
luxuriant  herbage  or  native  grasses,  the  appearance  of 
highly  cultivated  fields.  Myriads  of  deer  graze  and  fatten 
upon  these  meadows. 

The   soil,  whether  sustaining  its   towering  growth  of 
primitive   wood,   or   revealing   the   natural   meadows,  is 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  341 

represented  as  possessing  native  fertility  and  adaptation 
to  agriculture,  seldom  surpassed  by  any  districts  of  equal 
altitude,  and  in  as  high  parallel  of  latitude.  Such  I  know, 
from  personal  inspection,  to  be  the  character  of  the  lands 
in  l^orth  Elba.  Specimens  of  soils,  from  the  alluvial  flats, 
upon  the  Au  Sable  river,  and  the  loam  from  the  uplands 
in  that  town,  which  were  analyzed  by  Professor  Salisbury, 
indicate  the  highest  degree  of  native  fertility.  In  some 
sections  of  this  territory,  a  white  silicious  earth  predomi 
nates,  which  is  evidence  of  a  light  and  rather  sterile  soil ; 
other  parts  of  it  are,  doubtless,  rocky  and  broken ;  but  a 
large  portion  of  the  land  is  susceptible  of  useful  cultiva 
tion,  and  much  more  will  be  found  congenial  to  grass  and 
grazing. 

The  general  face  of  this  region  may  be  inferred  from 
the  circumstance,  that  tourists  speak  in  their  description 
of  it,  of  seeing,  while  floating  upon  the  remote  lakes  and 
rivers,  the  summits  of  the  Adirondacs,  towering  above 
the  surrounding  plateau,  at  a  distance  of  thirty,  and  even 
fifty  miles. 

The  nearness  and  facility  of  access  to  various  markets, 
which  must  soon  exist,  is  a  most  important  and  obvious 
advantage,  which  this  country  will  at  an  early  day  possess. 
"When  the  different  public  improvements,  existing  or  con 
templated,  are  accomplished,  and  that  result  is  morally 
certain,  every  section  of  this  region  will  enjoy  an  easy 
access  to  the  Hudson,  to  the  marts  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
and  to  Champlain.  But  the  emigrant  to  this  territory 
need  not  place  any  reliance  upon  remoter  markets, 
while  an  infinitude  of  forge  fires  illuminate  the  re 
cesses  of  the  Adirondacs,  the  banks  of  the  Saranac,  and 
the  valley  of  the  Au  Sable,  and  the  varied  other  manufacto 
ries  exist,  which  are  springing  into  importance  along  the 
whole-  confines  of  this  wilderness.  These  immense  and 
increasing  consumers  will  always  secure  a  certain  and 
prompt  demand,  at  the  highest  prices,  for  all  the  charcoal 
that  can  be  made,  for  every  animal  that  can  be  raised  upon 


342  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

these  hills,  and  every  production  of  agriculture  that  the 
earth  can  yield.  Already,  as  the  pioneer  reaches  the  out 
line  of  the  wilderness,  we  see  the  manufacturer  and  the 
lumberer  press  on  his  track,  requiring  the  coal  he  produces 
in  clearing  his  land,  the  timber  he  falls  and  every  article 
of  consumption  he  produces,  at  prices  often  exceeding 
those  of  the  Atlantic  cities.  This  domestic  market  will 
never  be  exhausted,  but  must  constantly  augment. 

Large  appropriations  have  been  applied  by  the  state,  to 
the  improvement  of  the  navigation  of  several  of  the  streams, 
which  flow  from  this  region,  to  facilitate  the  transporta 
tion  of  logs.  Many  of  them  are  now  navigable  for  this 
purpose,  from  the  lakes  where  they  rise,  to  their  mouths. 
The  incalculable  amount  of  saw  logs,  embraced  in  the 
wilderness,  may  by  these  channels  be  transported  at  an 
insignificant  expense,  in  their  direct  course  to  market,  to 
points  where  they  are  fabricated  into  lumber,  for  exporta 
tion.  The  same  spirit  has  cherished  and  will  continue  to 
foster  the  constructing  of  rail  roads  calculated  to  develop 
the  affluence  of  this  region.  This  wise  policy  of  public 
munificence  is  calling  into  practical  existence  and  utility  an 
immense  aggregate  of  property,  which  has  been  hitherto 
inaccessible  and  valueless.  While  it  will  administer  to 
the  efforts  of  private  enterprise,  and  supply  new  fountains 
of  individual  wealth,  it  will  return  to  the  treasury  of  the 
state,  tenfold,  the  expenditures,  by  opening  the  vast  public 
domain  to  market  and  by  the  immense  accession  to  the 
business  of  the  public  works  it  must  create.  Hence,  it  is 
manifest,  that  the  labor  of  the  settler,  which  removes  the 
forest  and  reveals  the  earth  to  cultivation,  also  prepares 
the  coal  for  the  manufacturer  and  the  timber  for  transport 
ation;  and  thus,  while  he  is  remunerated  for  his  toil,  he  is 
enabled  to  pay  for  his  farm  and  adapt  it  to  tillage.  In 
addition  to  the  pine,  spruce  and  hemlock  timber,  which 
occupies  this  territory  and  which  may  be  computed  by 
millions  of  saw  logs,  it  comprehends  a  vast  amount  of 
excellent  cedar,  and  several  varieties  of  oak,  birch  and 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  343 

cherry,  that  attain  an  immense  size,  and  are  in  great  re 
quest  by  the  manufacturer,  for  choice  fabrics,  and  coal 
wood,  that  can  be  estimated  by  tens  of  millions  of  cords. 

Iron  ore  is  known  to  exist  here  in  large  deposits,  suffi 
cient,  probably,  for  all  its  requirements ;  but  if  this  opinion 
should  prove  to  be  incorrect,  aside  from  many  other  sources 
of  supply,  its  most  remote  sections  will  soon,  by  means 
of  the  contemplated  works,  join  hands  with  the  exhaustless 
masses  of  the  Adirondac  deposits. 

The  unrivaled  fish,  which  throng  these  waters  in  the 
utmost  profusion,  and  now  afford  an  article  of  such  ex 
quisite  luxury,  may  be  made  an  important  and  valuable 
commodity  of  exportation,  when  the  means  of  a  rapid 
and  certain  transportation  are  established.  An  immense 
quantity  of  venison  is  every  season  sent  from  the  wilderness 
to  the  southern  and  eastern  cities. 

The  price  of  land,  in  this  territory,  ranges  from  one  dollar 
to  six  dollars  the  acre. 

The  wisdom  of  the  development  by  the  state  of  the 
resources  of  this  region,  and  the  promoting  of  its  settlement 
by  every  liberal  and  fostering  policy,  is  so  apparent  and 
imperative,  that  its  expediency  can  scarcely  be  enforced  by 
any  argument.  Let  avenues  be  opened  into  it;  let  the 
navigation  be  perfected,  and  the  rivers  made  more  available 
for  the  floating  of  saw  logs,  and  it  will  soon  be  colonized 
by  sturdy  and  energetic  emigrants,  and  the  silent  and 
gloomy  wilderness  will  resound  with  the  din  of  labor  and 
industry.  False  and  deceptive  public  sentiment  has  shed 
a  blighting  influence  over  this  territory,  and  created  obsta 
cles  to  its  occupation,  more  impracticable  than  its  mountain 
barriers,  or  all  the  impediments  with  which  nature  has 
surrounded  it. 

MINERAL  SPRINGS. 

Numerous  springs  of  mineral  water  occur  in  Essex 
county,  but  a  few  only  are  known  to  possess  any  high  or 
peculiar  medicinal  properties.  The  Adirondac  springs, 


344  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

consisting  of  a  cluster  of  four  fountains,  lying  within  a 
small  circle,  are  situated  upon  premises  formerly  owned 
by  Mr.  Stevenson  of  Westport.  About  two  years  since, 
the  property  was  purchased  by  Mr.  George  "W".  Spencer, 
who  gave  the  springs  their  present  appropriate  name. 
They  are  beautifully  situated  upon  a  slope  of  the  Adiron- 
dacs,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  lake,  and  command  an 
extended  view  of  its  course,  with  a  magnificent  mountain 
scenery  on  both  shores,  and  a  landscape  formed  by  a 
highly  cultivated  and  picturesque  country.  The  site  of 
these  springs  is  about  four  miles  and  a  half  from  Port 
Henry,  and  the  same  distance  from  the  village  of  West- 
port,  and  is  approached  in  both  directions  by  excellent 
roads,  through  an  interesting  and  beautiful  district.  Mr. 
Spencer  has  erected,  at  large  expense,  convenient  struc 
tures  about  the  fountains.  These  waters  have  been  known 
and  celebrated  in  the  region  during  the  last  forty  years, 
for  their  singular  efficacy  in  relieving  various  diseases  and 
affections. 

In  the  year  1852,  while  acting  under  my  appointment 
by  the  State  society,  I  procured  a  gallon  of  the  water 
from  each  of  the  springs  mentioned  below,  and  submitted 
them  to  Professor  Salisbury,  at  that  time  the  chemist  and 
geologist  of  the  society.  After  a  careful  examination,  he 
returned  to  me  the  subjoined  result.  I  may  properly 
remark,  that  the  appearance  of  the  springs  and  the  vici 
nity,  disclose  the  presence  of  minerals  in  an  extraordinary- 
degree.  The  deposit  of  a  substance  that  appears  to  be 
chiefly  magnesia,  through  which  the  Cold  spring  ascends, 
is  about  ten  feet  thick ;  and  the  concretion  formed  by  the 
water  of  the  Sulphur  spring  has  been  opened  eighteen 
feet  in  depth  without  reaching  the  base.  These  encrusta 
tions  are  very  similar  to  the  High  Rock  spring  in  Saratoga. 
This  residuum  of  the  waters  may  be  traced  along  their 
course  several  feet,  after  the  discharge  from  the  fountain. 
In  its  first  stage,  before  induration,  it  is  about  the  con 
sistence  of  putty,  soft  and  unctuous,  and  without  grit  to  the 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  345 

touch.  This  substance,  while  soft,  has  been  used  con 
stantly,  and  with  remarkable  success,  as  an  external 
application  in  cutaneous  affections.  The  Sulphur  spring 
is  characterized  by  the  constant,  and  often  quite  active 
ebullition  of  a  gaseous  substance.  The  following  are  the 
analyses  of  Professor  Salisbury : 

1  gal.  water  from  1  gal.  water  from 

Sulphur  spring.  Cold  spring. 

Sulphuretted  hydrogen, 16  cubic  inches.     ...... 

Organic  matter,  , 8.64  grains.  8.16  grains. 

Sulphur,  2.88  "                

Lime,  10.32  "  12.88  " 

Magnesia,  2.24  "  3.12  " 

Potkssa, 1.36  "  1.20  " 

Soda, 1.12  "  0.88  -c 

Iron 1.04  "  1.44  " 

Chlorine,  trace  0.48  " 

Sulphuric  acid, 0.88  "  1.52  " 

Phosphoric  acid, 0.32  "  2.48  " 

Carbonic  acid, 1.36  "  1.44      " 

Silicic  acid, 0.40  "  0.48  " 


Total  solid  matter  in  one  gallon,...    30.64      "  34.08      " 

"  One  distinguishing  character  of  the  Sulphur  spring  is 
the  large  quantity  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen  its  waters  con 
tain,  A  portion  of  the  alkaline  basis  is  also  combined  with 
sulphur,  forming  sulphides. 

The  water  designated  in  the  analysis,  as  No.  3,  was  taken 
from  a  spring  upon  the  premises  of  L.  Pope  in  Chesterfield, 
and  No.  6  from  a  spring  in  Jay,  situated  almost  within  the 
water  line  of  the  Au  Sable  river.  In  relation  to  these 
waters,  Prof.  Salisbury  remarks  :  "  On  removing  the  cork,. 
I  found  in  No.  3  a  mere  trace  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen  ; 
in  No.  6  no  trace  of  this  gas,  or  carbonic  acid  gas  could  be 
detected.  They  both  contained  a  very  small  quantity  of 
a  ferruginous  sediment.  No.  6  has  a  slightly  bituminous 
odor.  No.  3  a  slight  fetid  odor." 


346  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

A  gallon  of  water  from  No.  3  contains  12.16  grains  of 
solid  matter,  and  from  ~No.  6,  6  grains  of  solid  matter.  Of 
this  solid  matter  100  parts  gave  of 

No.  3.  No.  6.  No.  5. 

Organic  matter, 31.98  41.32  19.73 

Magnesia, 23.39  14.64  16.14 

Sulphuric  acid, 10.13  5.28  23.32 

Lime, 11.03  17.34  4.75 

Potassa, 6.01  7.98  20.33 

Soda, 3.32  0.27  2.34 

Carbonic  acid, 6.40  4.01  3.59 

Phosphoric  acid, 5.11  5.32  4.18 

Chlorine, 1.82  2.31  3.79 

Iron, 0.51  1.19  4.18 

Silica, 9.23  0.14  0.11 

Sulphuretted  hydrogen,  trace            

99.93        99.80        99.86 

The  spring  from  which  the  water  marked  "No.  5  was 
taken,  is  situated  almost  within  the  shadow  of  the  giant 
wall  of  the  Indian  pass.  A  fountain  of  health,  suffi 
cient  to  constitute  a  "  watering  place,"  within  the  pure 
and  invigorating  atmosphere  of  the  Adirondacs,  and  amid 
scenes  where  nature  reigns  in  profound  seclusion,  and  in 
such  imposing  and  terrific  grandeur,  would  possess  infi 
nite  attractions  and  interest.  One  gallon  of  this  water 
gave  of  solid  matter  12.64  grains,  and  100  parts  of  this 
solid  matter  gave  the  preceding  analysis.  "  The  analysis 
shows  No.  5  to  be  a  magnesia  potassa  water.  The  magne 
sia  and  potassa  are  probably  mostly  in  the  form  of  sulphates. 
~No.  5  has  a  slight  earthy  odor." 

The  discovery  of  a  spring  near  Schroon  lake  has  re 
cently  been  announced.  The  locality  is  almost  as  impos 
ing  and  picturesque  and  even  more  beautiful  than  that  in 
Indian  pass,  and  if  the  properties  of  the  water  prove  as 
valuable  as  is  claimed,  and  the  purpose  of  erecting  a  hotel 
is  accomplished,  I  can  imagine  no  resort  more  delightful 
or  attractive. 


PART  111. 
NATURAL  HISTORY. 


ANIMALS. 

Champlain,  and  the  early  explorers  of  the  environs  of 
Lake  Champlain,  allude  to  the  abundance  and  variety  of 
the  game  and  wild  animals  found  in  that  region.  The 
reminiscences  of  the  living  recall  the  prevalence  in  vast 
numbers  of  these  animals,  at  their  first  settlement  of  the 
county.  Fearful  legends  are  still  rife  of  exposures  of  the 
original  settlers,  and  their  terrific  encounters  with  the 
panther,  the  bear,  and  wolf. 

The  moose  within  a  late  period  has  been  discovered  in 
the  recesses  of  the  interior  wilderness.  The  panther  and 
wolf  still  prowl  in  these  wilds,  but  rarely,  and  by  solitary 
individuals.  The  small  black  bear  exists  in  small  num 
bers  among  the  fastnesses  of  the  Adirondacs,  but  are  sel 
dom  seen  in  the  more  inhabited  sections  of  the  county. 
The  bear,  wolf  and  fox,  in  the  early  occupation  of  the 
county,  committed  the  most  destructive  depredations  upon 
the  flocks  of  the  pioneers.  They  literally  occupied  and 
infested  the  forest,  and  by  their  great  prevalence  seriously 
retarded  and  embarrassed  the  introduction  of  sheep.  The 
howling  of  wolves  around  the  solitary  cabins  of  the  settlers, 
is  described  as  having  been  most  appalling.  In  the  lan 
guage  of  an  aged  pioneer,1  "  the  deer,  sixty  years  ago,  were 
more  abundant  in  our  fields  than  sheep."  Venison  was 
then  the  cheapest  food  of  the  settler,  and  at  different 
periods,  their  almost  exclusive  dependence.  A  bear  cub 
was  esteemed  as  delicate  and  luscious  as  the  fattest  lamb. 

1  Mr.  Leavitt,  Chesterfield. 


348  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Deer  still  abound  in  the  interior  solitudes,  and  are  annually 
destroyed  in  vast  numbers,  in  the  mere  wanton  and  brutal 
instincts  of  slaughter.  Under  the  influence  of  public  sen 
timent  and  a  determined  purpose  of  enforcing  the  stringent 
statutes  for  the  preservation  of  game,  the  cruel  extinction 
of  both  deer  and  fish,  has  been  in  some  measure  suppressed 
in  this  wilderness.  Sometimes  expelled  from  their  retreats 
by  the  attacks  of  wolves,  their  ferocious  foe,  they  appear 
in  the  older  settlements,  and  in  their  extreme  terror,  occa 
sionally  dash  into  a  village ;  but  only  to  find  man  as 
merciless  as  the  savage  beast.  Thus,  torn  and  devoured 
by  wolves;  chased  by  dogs,  and  overtaken  when  their 
sharp  and  tiny  hoofs  penetrate  the  crust  of  snows,  and 
they  helplessly  flounder  in  their  depths ;  hunted  by  torch 
light,  and  pursued  in  the  lakes  and  ponds  of  their  native 
wilds,  this  beautiful,  timid  and  gentle  creature,  now  afford 
ing  so  much  beauty  and  animation  to  these  forests,  and 
such  luxury  to  the  table  of  even  our  metropolitan  epicures, 
must  soon  be  extirpated,  or  greatly  diminished  in  their 
numbers. 

The  beaver  was  found  in  great  abundance  throughout 
the  region,  by  the  first  occupants.  They  no  longer  exist, 
it  is  believed,  in  the  territory  of  Essex  county.  The  skele 
ton  of  probably  the  last  patriarch  of  the  race  is  still 
preserved.  Numerous  vestiges  exist  of  their  former 
habitations.  The  evidences  remain  throughout  the  county 
of  their  wonderful  architectural  works,  and  of  the  amaz 
ing  sagacity  that  approached  human  intelligence.  The 
skill  with  which  the  beaver  selected  the  position  of  his 
dam,  the  untiring  industry  and  great  vigor  exhibited  in 
prosecuting  his  work,  the  exactness  of  its  capacity  to  the 
required  object,  and  the  great  beauty  of  its  structure, 
excite  the  deepest  admiration  and  wonder.  The  water 
obstructed  by  these  dams  flowed  over  extensive  flats, 
destroying  the  trees  and  vegetation  which  had  flourished 
upon  them.  These  were  carefully  removed  by  the  beaver, 
as  they  decayed,  leaving  the  surface  as  clear  and  unobstructed 
as  if  the  work  had  been  accomplished  by  the  nicest  labor 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  349 

of  human  industry.  These  clearings  were  ultimately 
occupied  by  a  spontaneous  growth  of  natural  grasses. 
The  beaver  meadows  of  the  county,  formed  by  this  pro 
cess,  were  of  incalculable  benefit  to  the  early  settlers^ 
preparing  for  many  of  them  in  advance,  an  abundant  sup 
ply  of  excellent  fodder. 

The  hunter  who  penetrated  deeply  into  the  solitudes,, 
beyond  the  western  limits  of  this  county,  until  recently 
found  the  moose  in  considerable  abundance.1  Individuals- 
occasionally  appeared  among  the  nearer  Adirondacs.  A 
solitary  bull  or  a  cow  and  calf,  usually  selects  in  autumn 
a  hill  or  spur  of  a  mountain,  where  abounds  the  mountain' 
ash  and  striped  maple,  his  choicest  food.  Here  he  hiber 
nates  in  what  the  hunter  terms  his  yard.  As  the  snows 
deepen,  he  industriously  keeps  open  the  paths  leading  to- 
the  various  sections  of  his  domain.  He  uniformly  traverses 
the  same  route,  and  thus  preserves  a  beaten  track  in  the- 
deepest  snows  of  winter.  In  this  seclusion  he  passes  the- 
season,  feeding  upon  the  tender  branches  of  his  favorite 
shrubs,  until  spring  returns,  and  the  voice  of  nature 
invokes  him  to  seek  new  companions.  During  the  sum 
mer  they  frequent  the  vicinity  of  ponds  and  marshes,  feed 
ing  upon  aquatic  plants.  The  roots  of  the  pond  lily  they 
greedily  devour. 

The  pursuit  of  the  moose  is  among  the  most  animating 
and  attractive  sports  of  the  huntsman.  The  senses  of  this 
animal  are  supposed  to  be  peculiarly  acute.  He  discovers 
afar  off  the  approach  of  danger,  and  breaks  from  his  covert 
and  flies  with  incredible  celerity.  His  stately  horns  thrown 
back  upon  his  shoulders,  his  nose  projecting,  and  with  the- 
gait  and  action  of  a  fast  trotting  horse,  he  dashes  amid  the 
forest,  over  mountains  and  through  morasses,  with  a  speed 
that  defies  pursuit,  unless  the  crust  of  snow  yields  to  his 
enormous  bulk,  when  he  is  readily  overtaken.  Although 
naturally  a  timid  animal,  he  then  turns  at  bay,,  and  with 
immense  power  and  indomitable  courage  faces  his  foes,  and 

1  A.  Ralph. 


350  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

woe  betide  the  hunter  or  dog  who  falls  within  the  reach  of 
his  horns,  or  the  trampling  of  his  hoofs.  He  is  then  the 
very  symbol  of  savage  ferocity.  His  aspect  is  terrific  ;  his 
eyes  glare,  his  mane  erect,  every  hair,  long  and  protruding, 
seems  to  expand  and  become  animate.  His  defiant  roar 
resounds  among  the  mountains ;  he  defends  himself  to  the 
last  throe  with  unyielding  energy.  The  meat  of  the  moose 
is  considered  a  choice  and  rare  delicacy. 

The  fox  and  the  muskrat  are  abundant,  and,  with  the  minx 
and  martin,  are  yet  pursued  for  their  pelages.  The  lynx 
is  occasionally  found.  The  squirrel,  in  most  of  its  varieties, 
exist  in  great  numbers.  Small  colonies  of  the  flying 
squirrel  are  found  in  some  localities.  Its  singular  construc 
tion  and  great  beauty  render  it  an  object  of  much  interest. 
A  peculiar  incapacity  alike  for  defense  and  escape,  makes 
it  the  victim  of  innumerable  enemies.  A  remarkable  fact 
in  natural  history  is  observed  in  relation  to  these  animals, 
and  particularly  of  the  common  red  squirrel.  A  district 
of  country,  which  has  been  nearly  exempt  from  their  pre 
sence,  is  suddenly  thronged  by  innumerable  multitudes. 
Every  tree  and  bush  and  fence  seems  alive  with  them, 
until  they  at  once  and  as  mysteriously  disappear.  This 
circumstance  aifords  undoubted  evidence  of  the  migration 
of  the  squirrel,  but  to  what  extent  the  habit  prevails  is 
unknown.  Popular  opinion  assumes,  that  they  traverse 
Lake  Champlain  in  these  progresses.  The  autumn  of  1851 
afforded  one  of  these  periodical  invasions  of  Essex  county. 
It  is  well  authenticated,  that  the  red  squirrel  was  con 
stantly  seen  in  the  widest  parts  of  the  lake,  far  out  from 
land,  swimming  towards  the  shore,  as  if  familiar  with  the 
service;  their  heads  above  water,  and  their  bushy  tails 
erect  and  expanded,  and  apparently  spread  to  the  breeze. 
Reaching  land,  they  stopped  for  a  moment,  and  relieving 
their  active  and  vigorous  little  bodies  from  the  water,  by 
an  energetic  shake  or  two,  they  bounded  into  the  woods, 
as  light  and  free  as  if  they  had  made  no  extraordinary 
effort. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  351 


FISH. 

Lake  Champlain  embraces  most  of  the  species  of 
fish,  usually  found  in  fresh  water  lakes.  Several  varieties, 
formerly  abundant  in  these  waters,  are  now  rarely  found 
or  have  totally  disappeared.  My  work  does  not  pretend 
to  the  dignity  of  science,  and  I  propose  to  glance  only  at 
the  subject  of  the  fishes  of  the  region  in  a  few  general  ob 
servations  and  in  familiar  language.  Champlain,  whose 
veracity,  researches  always  vindicate,  speaks  of  a  remarka 
ble  fish,  which  many  have  supposed  to  be  fabulous.  Al 
luding  to  other  fish,  he  continues  "  among  the  rest,  there  is 
one  called  by  the  Indians  chaousarou,  of  divers  length. 
The  largest,  I  was  informed  by  the  people,  are  of  eight  and 
ten  feet,  I  saw  one  of  five  feet,  as  thick  as  a  thigh,  with  a 
head  as  big  as  two  fists,  with  jaws  two  feet  and  a  half  long, 
and  a  double  set  of  very  long  and  dangerous  teeth.  The 
form  of  the  body  resembles  that  of  the  pike  and  is  armed 
with  scales,  that  the  thrust  of  a  poniard  cannot  pierce,  and 
is  of  a  silver  grey  color.  The  point  of  the  snout  is  like 
that  of  a  hog."  Professor  Thompson  believes  the  original 
of  this  description  to  have  been  the  Bill-fish  (Lepirostrus 
oxyurus),  a  fish  still  existing  in  the  lake,  but  rarely 
taken.  Prof.  Agassiz  appears  to  have  found  traces  of  the 
same  fish  in  the  upper  lakes.  The  muskalonge,  to  which 
the  fish  of  Champlain  bears  a  slight  analogy,  and  supposed 
by  some  naturalists  to  be  an  enormous  growth  of  the  pick 
erel,  frequents  some  sections  of  the  lake  and  often  attains 
the  weight  of  thirty  or  forty  pounds. 

The  early  settlers  of  the  valley  of  Lake  Champlain, 
found  the  streams  upon  both  sides  filled  with  salmon. 
They  were  very  large,  and  among  the  most  delicate  and 
luscious  of  all  fish.  At  that  period  they  were  abundant, 
and  so  fearless  as  to  be  taken  with  great  ease  and  in  im 
mense  quantities.  A  record  exists  of  five  hundred  having 
"been  killed  in  the  Boquet  in  one  afternoon,1  and  as  late  as 

1  Lem  Higby,  Esq. 


352  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

1823  about  fifteen  hundred  pounds  of  salmon  were  taken  by 
a  single  haul  of  a  seine,  near  Port  Kendall.  They  have  been 
occasionally  found  within  the  last  twenty  years,  in  some 
of  the  most  rapid  streams,  buthave  now  totally  disappeared. 
The  secluded  haunts  they  loved,  have  been  invaded  ;  dams 
have  impeded  their  wonted  routes  ;  the  filth  of  occupied 
streams  has  disturbed  their  cleanly  habits,  or  the  clangor 
of  steam  boats  and  machinery  has  alarmed  their  fears. 
Each  of  these  causes  is  assigned  as  a  circumstance  that 
has  deprived  the  country  of  an  important  article  of  food 
and  a  choice  luxury.  The  subject  is  not  unworthy  the  in 
quiry  and  investigation  of  the  philosopher  of  nature.1 

The  LAKE  SHAD  (Coregonus  Albus).  In  the  absence  of 
the  salmon  the  shad  will  be  classed  as  the  choicest  and 
most  valuable  fish  belonging  to  the  waters  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain.  Owing  to  its  shyness  and  the  peculiarity  of  its 
habits,  its  natural  history  is  little  understood.  It  appears 
not  to  resort  promiscuously  to  every  section  of  the  laker 
but  only  frequents  or  abides  in  chosen  haunts.  It  delights 
in  clean,  sandy  or  gravelly  bottoms.  In  the  early  spring,, 
it  is  taken  in  considerable  quantities,  lying  at  night  along 
the  shores.  Practical  fishermen  state  that  as  the  water 
grows  warmer  and  recedes,  the  shad  retires  into  the 
deeper  channels  of  the  lake.  This  fish  abounds  chiefly  in 
the  lower  parts  of  the  lake,  and  in  particular  localities  is 
taken  by  the  seine  in  great  abundance  throughout  the  sea 
son,  and  in  some  years  and  at  favorable  sites  sufficient  for 
barrelling.  When  its  haunts  and  habits  are  better  under 
stood  its  pursuit  may  become  an  important  branch  of  indus 
try.  It  rarely  takes  the  spoon  or  bait  in  trolling.  The  eliam, 
used  as  a  bait,  an  amateur  sportsman  informs  me,  some 
times  attracts  it.  It  is  occasionally  caught  by  dropping 
the  hook  in  deep  water,  so  that  it  lies  on  the  bottom.  It 
is  supposed  that  the  fish  is  usually  hooked  while  playing 
with  the  bait  in  that  position,  rather  than  in  attempting 
to  swallow  it.  The  spawning  season  of  the  shad  is  be- 

1  Documentary  History. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  353 

lieved  to  be  in  autumn  or  winter.  The  ground  it  selects 
is  uncertain,  but  observers  of  its  habits  incline  to  the 
opinion,  that  it  seeks  for  the  purpose,  the  deepest  and 
coolest  pools.  After  the  most  careful  inquiry,  I  can 
obtain  no  information  or  facts  in  reference  to  the  fry  of 
this  fish.  E"o  person  with  whom  I  have  conversed  has 
ever  seen  them.  The  appearance  of  young  shad  eight  or 
ten  inches  long  is  not  uncommon.  They  are  most  difficult 
to  be  obtained,  and  from  the  singular  delicacy  of  their 
organization  would  hardly  bear  transportation. 

The  PICKEREL  (Esox  reticularis).  This  fish  is  a  favorite 
object  of  pursuit  in  both  trolling  and  spearing.  In  the 
spring,  directly  after  the  dissolution  of  the  ice,  when  the 
rising  water  of  the  lake  sets  back  upon  the  marshes  and  low 
lands,  it  is  taken  in  those  places,  at  night,  by  the  jack  light, 
in  great  numbers.  During  the  day  in  pleasant  weather  it  is 
prone  to  lie  near  the  surface,  basking  in  the  warm  vernal 
sun,  and  is  then  shot  with  great  facility.  The  pickerel- 
does  not  rank  among  the  best  fish  in  the  lake  for  the  table. 
To  many  it  seems  infected  by  an  unpleasant  odor,  and  its 
taste  is  sometimes  strong  with  a  muddy  taint,  and  yet  its 
great  size  and  beauty,  its  extreme  eagerness  at  the  bait,  and 
its  powerful  and  determined  resistance  in  the  taking,  renders 
it  very  desirable  sport  and  attractive  trophy.  The  pick 
erel  is  often  and  with  uniform  success  transferred  to  other 
waters.  When  introduced  into  the  lakes  and  ponds  of  the 
interior  all  its  qualities  are  transformed.  The  cold  and  clear 
waters  of  the  mountain  springs,  and  the  novel  and  abund 
ant  food  it  rejoices  in,  seem  to  remove  its  objectionable 
properties ;  it  becomes  hard-fleshed,  pleasant  and  high  fla 
vored,  and  almost  approaches  the  exquisite  delicacy  of  the 
trout.  In  these  favorable  situations  it  attains  a  great  size, 
and  by  its  wonderful  fecundity  and  rapid  growth,  in  an 
incredibly  short  period  throngs  the  waters  into  which  it 
has  been  translated  and  every  contiguous  stream  which 
connects  with  them.  By  the  myriads  it  soon  produces, 
and  its  remarkable  voracity  and  pugnacious  habits,  the 
pickerel  very  rapidly  extirpates  almost  every  other  variety 
23 


354  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

of  fish.     For  this  reason  its  introduction  into  lakes  and 
streams,  which  have  been  the  abode  of  the  trout,  is  always 
deprecated  by  sportsmen.     This  fish  is  distinguished  by  a 
peculiarity,  which  possibly,  although  I  am  not  aware  of  the 
fact,  may  be  common  to  some  other  species.     It  seeks  in 
the  spring  the  shallow  waters  upon  marshes  and  swamps 
which  at  that  season  are  overflowed,  and  deposits  its  spawn 
not  upon  the  bottom,  but  on  the  small  bushes  and  rushes 
then  submerged,  and  to  these  plants  the  spawn  is  made  to 
adhere  by  the  glutinous  substance  that  enfolds  it.     If  the 
water,  as  frequently  happens,  subsides  before  the  eggs  are 
hatched,  they  of  course  must  perish.     Fishermen  recount 
marvelous  tales  of  the  discovery  of  the  spawn  of  the  picke 
rel  in  this  condition,  arid  estimate  the  quantity  by  measure, 
instead  of  any  infinity  of  numbers.     The  incalculable  pro- 
lificness  of  the  fish  is  evinced  by  the  myriads  of  the  fry, 
which  will  be  observed  in  the  summer  thronging  the  small 
brooks,  that  are  usually  discharged  from  the  places  fre 
quented  by  it  in  the  spawning  season.     Instinct,  doubtless, 
retains  them  in  shallow  water,  which  affords  a  protection 
from  indiscriminate  destruction  by  their  voracious  parents. 
The  pickerel  is  an  example  of  the  changes  which  are  con 
stantly  observed  among  the  fishes  of  the  lake ;  a  frequent 
increase  of  one  species,  and  a  diminution  of  another.     A 
few  years  since,  the  pickerel  was  the  prevailing  large  fish, 
and  the  pike  was  rare  in  the  waters  of  Champlain.     At  this 
time  the  former  has  perceptibly  decreased,  while  the  latter 
has  become  abundant. 

The  STURGEON.  Two  species  are  found  in  Lake  Cham- 
plain.  One,  the  acipenser  rubicandus,  Mr.  Thompson  states, 
is  of  a  large  size  frequently  reaching  six  feet  in  length  and 
a  hundred  pounds  in  weight.  The  other  species  is  smaller. 
The  flesh,  although  not  highly  esteemed,  is  palatable.  It 
is  not,  however,  pursued  for  its  edible  qualities  and  is  only 
captured  incidentally  in  drawing  the  seine.  In  some 
parts  of  the  lake  it  is  said  to  be  very  abundant.  It  runs  in 
schools  and  often  in  vast  numbers.  We  hear  sometimes 
remarkable  tales  of  the  foremost  files  of  those  schools  being 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  355 

projected  on  a  beach  or  shoal  and  stranded  by  the  momen 
tum  of  the  enormous  masses  pressing  in  their  rear. 

The  YELLOW  PERCH  is  the  most  abundant  of  the  smaller 
class  of  fish.  It  often  reaches  an  unusual  size,  and  is 
highly  valued  as  a  pan  fish.  The  exuberance  of  the 
perch  is  nearly  incredible.  In  a  serene  sunny  afternoon, 
they  often  seem  to  collect  in  vast  shoals  near  the  surface, 
animating  and  rippling  the  water  in  an  area  of  acres, 
either  by  their  gambols,  or  in  the  pursuit  of  insects.  At 
such  times  the  skill  and  industry  of  the  angler  have  no 
success. 

The  BULL  POUT  is  also  very  common  and  abundant. 
It  is  often  taken  a  foot  in  length,  and  although  repulsive 
in  its  form  and  general  appearance,  is  an  excellent  article 
of  food  when  manipulated  by  scientific  hands. 

Several  varieties  of  EELS  abound  in  the  lake  and  its 
tributaries,  and  are  taken  in  large  quantities,  both  by  the 
hook  and  in  seines. 

The  BLUE  LAMPREY  is  a  small,  odious  parasite,  often 
captured  in  seines,  and  usually  adhering,  by  its  peculiar 
construction,  to  the  bodies  of  other  fishes.  It  possesses 
more  of  the  qualities  of  the  blood-sucker  than  of  the  fish. 
It  fastens,  by  the  suction  powers  of  its  mouth,  upon  a 
larger  fish,  and  thus  preys  on  its  living  flesh.  ~No  effort 
of  the  suffering  creature  can  displace  its  tormentor,  which 
usually  adheres  to  its  victim  until  it  dies  from  pain  and 
exhaustion. 

The  LING  or  METHY  (Lota  maculosa),  occupies  one  of 
the  lowest  positions  in  the  scale  of  animated  nature.  Its 
form  is  loathsome,  and  its  habits  so  sluggish  and  inert, 
that  it  seems  to  crawl  along  the  bottom,  as  it  slowly  moves 
up  the  little  brook  it  has  selected  for  its  migration. 
Notwithstanding  this  appearance,  Mr.  Thompson,  in  his 
Natural  History,  states  it  to  be  remarkable  for  voracity, 
and  that  he  found  its  stomach  gorged  with  small  fish,  to 
the  utmost  capacity  of  its  huge  abdomen.  These  it  must 
have  seized  by  art  rather  than  dexterity.  Its  annual  mi 
gration  is  performed  in  the  winter,  when  the  ling,  in 


356  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

greatest  profusion  ascends  its  favorite  stream  in  long  pro 
cession.  Although  tough,  tasteless,  and  disagreeable,  it 
is  taken  in  immense  numbers,  and  salted  by  the  poorer 
classes,  for  winter  food.  Holes  are  cut  in  the  ice,  and  as 
the  fish  passes  beneath  it  is  pierced  by  a  fork  or  any  pointed 
implement,  and  is  even  seized  by  the  hand.  Bushels  of 
lings  are  often  thus  thrown  out  in  an  incredible  short 
time.  At  night,  which  is  the  most  favorable  time,  a 
brilliant  fire  is  enkindled  on  the  ice  at  the  opening,  and 
the  fish  is  thus  taken  in  great  abundance,  and  with  ease. 

The  SMELT,  a  small  but  very  fine  fish,  of  marine  origin 
and  migratory  habits,  have  recently  appeared  in  the  lake 
and  are  taken  through  the  ice  in  large  quantities.  Varie 
ties  of  the  bass  and  pike  are  among  the  most  valuable 
and  delicious  of  the  lake  fish  and  are  taken  in  great  num 
bers.  Many  of  the  lake  fish  are  highly  esteemed,  and 
secured  in  ice,  are  exported  by  rail  roads  to  the  southern 
cities  and  watering  places,  where  they  command  exorbitant 
prices. 

In  early  spring,  when  the  rising  water  has  formed  an 
open  space  between  the  shore  and  the  ice,  the  shad  and 
indeed  most  of  the  larger  fish  of  the  lake  are  pursued 
with  keen  avidity,  by  the  spear  and  with  torch-light. 
This  very  exciting  and  pleasant  sport  also  occurs  at  the 
season  in  which  the  fish  seek  the  estuaries  and  the  lower 
grounds  covered  by  the  shallow  water  which  have  over 
flowed  from  the  lake.  In  a  calm  night  (and  if  dark  more 
certain  the  success),  the  boat  impelled  by  a  single  paddle 
glides  silently  through  the  water,  bearing  an  iron  jack  at 
the  bow,  loaded  with  light  wood,  which  emits  a  bright 
flame,  shedding  an  illumination  far  in  advance.  The 
spearsman,  with  poised  weapon,  stands  behind  the  light, 
with  full  opportunity  of  seeing  the  fish,  that  sleeping 
quietly  or  attracted  by  the  gleaming  of  the  fire,  lies  uncon 
scious  of  danger,  and  is  easily  approached  and  killed. 
Every  part  of  the  lake  adapted  to  this  sport,  presents  at 
the  season  a  brilliant  and  animated  aspect  and  glowing 
with  hundreds  of  these  fires. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  357 

Trolling  is  a  favorite  and  highly  exciting  sport  of  the 
amateur  fisherman  upon  these  waters.  This  mode  is 
adapted  to  deep  water,  and  is  conducted  by  towing  the  line 
some  distance  behind  the  boat,  in  a  sea  somewhat  agitated. 
Fish,  of  extraordinary  dimensions,  are  thus  frequently 
taken  in  large  numbers.  Fishing  by  seines  and  nets  is 
much  and  successfully  used  in  the  lakes  and  more  import 
ant  streams.  Several  varieties  of  the  most  ehoice  trout 
occur  in  great  profusion,  in  most  of  the  innumerable 
streams,  ponds  and  lakes  which  are  scattered  among  the 
forests  and  mountains  of  the  interior.  The  salmon  trout 
is  peculiarly  distinguished  for  the  great  size  it  attains,  and 
the  superior  delicacy  and  excellence  of  its  qualities. 

Two  distinct  species  of  the  trout,  in  popular  language 
designated  the  lake  and  the  brook  trout,  prevail  in  the 
lakes  and  streams  of  the  interior.     These  are  supposed  to 
ramify  into  a  number  of  varieties.     They  differ  very  per 
ceptibly  in   color  and  appearance,  and   the   distinctions 
which  science  detects,  are  very  clear  and  marked.     The 
color  of  the  flesh,  which  is  either  red  or  white  in  both 
species,  is  not  characteristic  of  either,  but  seems  to  be  an 
individual  peculiarity.     The  lake  trout,  fierce  and  vora 
cious  in  its  habits,  is  the  tyrant  of  the  waters.     It  attains 
a  very  great  size,  and  specimens  have  occasionally  been 
taken,  which  weighed  fifty  pounds.     These  are  rare,  and 
fish  of  ten  to  twenty  pounds  are  deemed  choice  sport. 
The   brook   trout   seldom   exceeds   three   pounds.      The 
former   spawn   from   the   15th  to   the   25th  of  October, 
and  the  brook  trout    about   ten   days  earlier.     The  two 
species  run  in  separate  schools,  and  although  found  asso 
ciated,  they  appear  not  to  amalgamate.     The  brook  trout 
frequents  the  streams,  and  near  the  entrances  and  outlets 
of  the  lakes.     The  fry  of  both  remain  on  the  spawning 
ground  until  the  ensuing  spring.     Notwithstanding  the 
avidity  with  which  these  fish  are  pursued,  their  marvel 
ous  fecundity  preserves  them  from  apparent  diminution 
in  these  lakes.     The   acquaintance    with  men,  however, 
renders  them  shy,  and  thus  is  enhanced  the  pleasure  and 


358  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

excitement  of  the  sport,  by  exacting  additional  skill  and 
perseverance  for  their  capture.  The  procreative  habits  of 
these  fish  are  peculiar  and  interesting.  The  female  pre 
pares  the  bed,  and  entering  upon  it  for  a  brief  period  each 
day,  gradually  deposits  the  spawn,  ejecting  a  part  on 
every  visit,  through  the  entire  spawning  season.  In  her 
absence,  the  male  daily  occupies  the  bed,  and  for  a  short 
time  remains  upon  it  in  the  performance  of  his  functions. 
It  is  believed  that  a  large  proportion  of  the  spawn  is  not 
fertilized. 

My  attention  has  been  called  by  gentlemen  peculiarly 
familiar  with  the  fish  of  these  lakes,  to  another  trout? 
which,  although  I  have  no  specimen  to  examine,  I  am 
inclined  to  regard  as  a  distinct  species,  or  certainly  a 
different  variety.  This  fish  appears  late  in  the  fall,  in 
great  abundance,  but  long  after  the  other  species  have 
left  the  fishing  grounds.  It  is  rounder  in  its  form,  longer 
and  more  slim  than  either  the  lake  or  brook  trout,  in  pro 
portion  to  its  weight,  It  is  distinguished  by  a  brighter 
and  more  silvery  coloring ;  has  brilliant  spots  on  its  sides, 
indiscriminately  red  or  yellow ;  seldom  reaches  a  pound 
and  a  half  in  weight ;  is  taken  by  any  kind  of  bait  or  fly, 
and  either  by  trolling  or  still  line.  Unlike  the  other 
species  it  spawns  in  the  spring.  In  its  edible  qualities,  it 
is  equal  to  either  of  the  others. 

These  waters  are  singularly  deficient  in  other  classes  of 
fish.  Few  are  found  in  them  except  the  perch  and  the 
coarser  kinds,  as  the  bull  pout  or  sun-fish,  except  one  of 
remarkable  habits  and  appearance,  and  known  to  the 
sportsman  as  the  white  or  frost  fish.  This  fish  usually 
appears  about  the  1st  of  November,  near  the  outlets  of 
the  lakes,  or  in  shallows,  in  immense  shoals,  at  times,  and 
in  places,  literally  thronging  the  waters  in  myriads. 
They  are  small,  weighing  about  four  to  the  pound,  and 
are  light  colored,  with  large  scales  that  cleave  from  the 
body  at  the  slightest  pressure.  They  persistently  refuse 
the  hook,  and  every  contrivance  of  bait,  but  are  taken  in 
great  quantities  by  the  grapple  and  nets,  and  afford,  in  the 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  359 

absence  of  the  trout,  excellent  sport  to  the  angler.  They 
supply  a  good  article  of  food.  These  fish  appear  in  num 
bers  at  no  other  season,  and  are  supposed  to  resort  to  the 
deep  waters  of  the  lakes,  from  whence  they  are  expelled 
by  the  periodical  return  of  the  trout. 

No  country  offers  to  the  sportsman  more  delightful  and 
diversified  attractions,  than  this  region  of  lakes  and  ponds. 
It  is  deeply  to  be  deplored,  that  the  same  barbarous  and 
ruthless  improvidence  that  formerly  depopulated  with  such 
rapidity  the  forests  of  deer,  has  hastened  in  some  districts 
the  extinction  of  the  trout.  They  have  been  not  only  pur 
sued  in  utter  wantonness,  and  in  the  passion  of  destruction 
at  the  legitimate  seasons,  but  they  were  mercilessly  fol 
lowed  by  the  net,  the  fly  and  the  spear,  to  their  spawning 
bed,  where,  in  the  extinction  of  one  life,  the  embryo  of 
thousands  is  annihilated.  Laws  are  plenary  in  their  strin 
gency  and  severity,  but  have  not  been  adequately  enforced. 
Even  now  in  many  lakes  the  most  exposed  to  such  ravages, 
these  fish  are  nearly  extirpated.  Happily  these  remarks 
are  more  applicable  to  the  recent  past  than  the  present. 
As  I  have  before  stated  these  practices  are  now  becoming 
generally  restrained. 

A  striking  and  very  curious  difference  occurs  in  the 
character  of  the  fish  occupying  lakes  which  lie  in  close 
proximity.  One  body  of  water  in  its  normal  condition  is 
filled  to  exuberance  with  the  choicest  trout ;  whilst  another 
situated  in  the  same  lofty  valley,  fed  by  the  same  mountain 
springs,  and  mingling  its  waters  in  the  same  stream  with 
the  former,  is  destitute  of  every  variety  of  fish,  except  the 
hardier  and  coarser  kinds.  At  periods  when  these  latter 
lakes  are  extremely  low,  numbers  of  the  dead  bodies  of  the 
fish  which  occupy  them,  are  found  floating  upon  the  sur 
face  of  the  water.  These  facts,  well  established,  attracted 
my  attention  as  interesting  in  the  physiology  of  these 
creatures,  and  an  important  feature  in  natural  history. 
The  result  of  my  examinations  of  the  subject  was  conclusive 
to  my  mind,  that  this  effect  is  produced  by  foreign  and 
noxious  substances  impregnating  the  waters.  On  inspec- 


360  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

tion  I  discovered  in  every  instance,  where  the  phenomenon 
occurred,  the  presence  of  native  copperas,  other  sulphates, 
and  incidentally  arsenic  largely  developed  in  deposits 
within  the  surging  of  the  water,  or  in  its  immediate  vicinity. 

REPTILES. 

The  rattle-snake  formerly  infested  several  localities  in 
this  county  in  horrid  profusion.  In  the  early  settlement 
of  the  region,  they  were  seen  in  vast  numbers  basking  in 
the  sun,  near  their  dens.  A  mountain,  in  the  vicinity  of 
Lake  George,  is  pointed  out,  where  the  legend  says  eight 
hundred  were  killed  in  a  single  season.  These  reptiles  are 
now  almost  exterminated.  No  other  snake  of  a  venomous 
character  is  found  in  the  county.  The  other  reptiles, 
birds,  insects,  and  bugs,  which  prevail,  are  familiar  to  the 
popular  mind,  to  science,  and  the  practical  farmer  and 
gardener. 

WILD  BEES. 

The  hunting  of  wild  bees  has  been,  in  parts  of  Essex 
county,  a  pursuit  of  considerable  importance,  and  as  excit 
ing  and  amusing,  as  it  often  is  profitable.  It  is  still  con 
tinued  to  a  limited  extent.  The  wild  bee,  although  similar 
in  appearance  and  habits  to  the  domestic  bee,  is  undoubt 
edly  a  native  of  the  forest,  and  indigenous  to  the  country. 
It  appears  to  be  adverse  to  the  vicinage  of  man,  and 
recedes  into  the  deeper  wilderness  as  cultivation  approaches 
its  secluded  and  hidden  haunts.  The  hives  of  the  wild  bee 
are  found  far  in  the  solitudes  of  unoccupied  tracts,  removed 
from  the  habitations  of  men,  and  occupying  the  most  seques 
tered  retreats.  It  selects,  for  the  location  of  its  hive,  an 
elevated  position,  far  up  some  retired  and  shady  ravine,  in 
the  midst  of  hills  or  mountains,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  a 
body  of  water.  If  the  country  is  flat,  the  bees  establish  their 
domicile  upon  the  margin  of  a  lake  or  stream,  in  as  much 
seclusion  as  possible.  They  appropriate  usually,  for  this 
purpose,  the  hollow  of  a  tree,  generally  selecting  one  of 
great  magnitude;  but  occasionally  they  construct  their 
hives  in  the  crevices  of  rocks.  They  enter  the  opening  in 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


the  tree  by  a  small  orifice,  which  very  essentially  protects 
them  from  observation  and  discovery.  Here  they  remain 
for  years,  in  possession  of  the  same  abode,  models  of  labo 
rious  and  untiring  industry,  accumulating  hoards  of  their 
luscious  treasures,  and  annually  casting  off  new  colonies. 
These  retreats  are  found  with  difficulty,  and  by  the  exer 
cise  of  much  skill  by  the  hunter;  and  when  found,  are  often 
very  difficult  of  access,  They  are  exposed,  not  only  to  the 
merciless  ravages  of  man,  but  insects  and  animals,  particu 
larly  the  bears,  commit  great  depredations  upon  them. 

The  professional  bee  hunter,  when  engaged  in  this  pur 
suit,  provides  himself  with  a  quantity  of  honey  comb, 
strained  honey,  and  a  small  light  box,  about  six  or  eight 
inches  long,  and  four  inches  deep  and  four  wide.  This 
box  has  two  slides,  one  at  the  top,  and  the  other  in  the 
centre.  The  slides  move  in  grooves.  In  the  upper  lid  he 
arranges  a  piece  of  glass  ;  the  lower  compartment  contains 
comb  filled  with  honey.  Thus  equipped,  the  hunter  pro 
ceeds,  late  in  autumn,  to  a  district,  which  by  previous 
observation,  he  has  ascertained  is  frequented  by  the  bees, 
in  pursuing  their  labors.  Two  modes  are  adopted  by  the 
hunter  for  procuring  the  bees,  which  he  uses  to  discover 
the  position  of  the  hive.  By  the  first,  and  this  is  the 
most  common,  when  he  detects  a  bee  upon  a  flower,  which 
is  generally  a  wild  plant,  known  to  the  hunter  as  the 
frost  blow,  that  blooms  late  in  October,  he  places  the  box 
beneath  the  insect  with  the  upper  lid  drawn,  and  by  a 
quick  and  dexterous  movement  thrusts  it  into  the  first 
compartment,  and  the  lid  being  closed,  the  bee  is  seen 
through  the  glass.  The  lower  lid  is  then  drawn  and  the 
glass  darkened,  when  the  bee  immediately  settles  upon 
the  honey  and  commences  its  feast.  It  is  now  left  undis 
turbed,  with  both  lids  open.  After  having  supplied  itself, 
the  bee  leaves  the  box,  and,  rising  above  it,  seems  to  take 
a  particular  note  of  its  locality,  flying  around  in  circles, 
which  grow  wider  at  every  gyration;  the  bee  constantly 
ascending,  until  at  length  it  takes  an  air  line  for  its  hive. 
This  crisis  tests  the  skill  and  vigilance  of  the  hunter. 


362  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

The  course  of  the  bee  is  carefully  watched  and  the  dis 
tance  of  the  hive  is  computed  by  the  length  of  its  absence. 
The  hunter  estimates  this  by  allowing  three  miles  to  the 
minute,  for  its  flight  and  return.  The  bee  is  allowed  to 
make  the  journey  several  times,  when  it  is  again  secured 
and  the  hunter  proceeds  in  the  direction  of  the  hive,  as 
indicated  by  the  course  of  the  bee's  flight.  It  seems  to 
communicate  its  discovery  to  the  hive ;  as  frequently  on 
its  return  it  is  accompanied  by  others.  The  hunter  often 
finds  it  necessary  to  catch  and  mark  an  individual  bee,  so 
as  to  identify  it  in  his  operations. 

After  advancing  as  far  as  he  deems  it  expedient,  the 
hunter  opens  the  box,  a  second  time,  and  allows  the  bee 
to  escape.  It  repeats  the  same  reconnaissance  as  before, 
and  then  takes  its  line  for  the  hive.  If  this,  as  often 
occurs,  has  been  passed,  the  fact  is  indicated  by  the  bee 
returning  on  the  hunter's  track.  It  frequently  becomes 
necessary,  when  the  position  of  the  hive  has  been  dis 
guised,  with  more  than  usual  adroitness  and  success,  for 
the  hunter  to  make  several  lines  in  this  manner,  when  he 
determines  the  locality  of  the  hive,  by  ascertaining  the 
point  where  the  different  lines  intercept.  A  number  of 
bees  from  the  hive  are  often  in  the  box  together,  and 
occasionally  those  from  different  hives,  as  appears  from 
their  making  distinct  lines,  on  rising  from  the  box. 

The  other  mode  pursued  by  the  hunter  is  this :  Upon 
a  cleared  spot  in  an  elevated  situation,  he  builds  a  fire 
and  heats  some  flat  stones  ;  on  these,  some  of  the  comb  is 
burned;  the  odor  of  the  burning  comb  will  attract  the 
bee ;  fresh  comb,  containing  honey,  is  then  placed  on  the 
stone,  upon  which  the  bee  is  allowed  to  feed.  When  it 
leaves,  the  comb  is  removed  from  the  stone  and  the  box 
substituted  in  the  same  place  ;  the  bee,  on  its  return,  alights 
upon  the  honey  in  the  box  and  is  thus  secured ;  afterwards 
the  hunter  proceeds  by  the  same  process  as  before.  The 
tree,  which  contains  the  hive,  is  then  felled  and  the  whole 
family  of  bees  are  exterminated,  usually  by  burning  straw. 
This  ruthless  work,  the  hunter  considers  necessary,  as 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  363 

well  to  protect  himself  from  their  assaults,  while  securing 
the  honey,  as  to  prevent  his  being  thrown  on  a  false  line, 
by  wandering  bees  from  the  same  hive,  who  would  bring 
him  back  to  the  already  ravaged  tree.  This  often  happens. 

Bee  hunting,  my  informant1  remarks,  in  closing,  "  is  a 
most  exciting  sport,  and  when  pursued  by  a  skillful  hunter, 
is  also  very  profitable.  1  have  known  of  over  a  ton  of 
honey  having  been  procured  in  a  single  month  by  three 
persons,  myself  being  one  of  the  number,  besides  more 
than  four  hundred  pounds  of  wax.  This  honey  was  sold 
in  Boston  for  fifteen  dollars  the  hundred  weight,  and  the 
wax  for  twenty  cents  the  pound."  "  We  discovered  in 
this  excursion  fifty-seven  hives,  which  yielded  from  thirty- 
five  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  honey  each,  de 
pending  on  their  age  and  size."  l 

In  the  south-western  section  of  the  town  of  Chesterfield, 
and  amidst  a  rude  and  mountainous  tract  of  country,  I 
am  informed,  an  immense  colony  of  bees  existed,  consist 
ing  of  numerous  hives.  Their  abodes  were  in  the  crevices 
and  fissures  of  the  rocks  and  inaccessible.  The  whole 
atmosphere  in  the  vicinity,  it  is  represented,  was  filled  with 
the  bees.  Various  attempts  by  excavation  and  blasting 
have  been  made,  to  reach  the  deposits  of  honey,  but  with 
out  success.  Owing  to  these  annoyances  and  many  dis 
turbances,  the  bees  became  so  exasperated  and  ferocious, 
and  they  were  so  formidable  from  the  infinitude  of  their 
number,  that  it  was  hazardous  to  approach  their  retreat. 
It  is  supposed,  that  this  remarkable  and  most  interesting 
colony,  has  been  destroyed  by  the  conflagrations,  which  in 
recent  years  have  swept  over  that  district. 

A  singular  fact  in  the  nature  and  habit  of  the  bee  is  re 
marked  by  hunters.  While  they  permit  some  persons  to 
approach  their  habitations  with  perfect  impunity,  they 
evince  towards  others  the  most  determined  and  inveterate 
instinctive  hostility. 

1  Mr.  James  M.  Western,  Chesterfield. 


364  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY, 

FORESTS. 

The  woodlands  of  this  region  afforded  to  the  early  set 
tlers  a  ready  and  available  resource,  and  still  afford  a  most 
important  element  in  the  business  and  prosperity  of  the 
country.  When  the  wilderness  was  penetrated  and  the 
forest  fell  before  the  woodman's  axe,  in  most  parts  of  the 
country,  he  collected  the  bodies  of  the  trees  into  log  heaps, 
reduced  them  to  ashes,  and  with  the  simple  chemistry  of 
the  woods,  and  in  the  rude  laboratory  that  necessity  had 
invented,  manufactured  them  into  potashes.  This  com 
modity  commanded  a  prompt  and  high  price  in  the  Cana 
dian  markets,  and  was  received  by  the  local  merchant  in 
exchange  for  merchandise  and  provisions  required  by  the 
settler. 

The  several  species  of  the  pine,  the  spruce  and  hemlock 
constituted  the  great  glory  and  magnificence  of  the  ori 
ginal  forests.  We  still  see  vestiges  in  their  remaining 
stumps  and  roots  that  indicate  their  immense  size.  These 
giants  of  the  forests  were  at  an  early  day  only  incum- 
brances  upon  the  soil,  and  were  destroyed  by  a  careless 
hand.  The  native  of  the  county,  to  whom  I  have  referred, 
informs  me  that  he  has  seen  white  pine  trees  girdled  and 
left  to  fall  and  rot  upon  the  earth  in  the  process  of  prepar 
ing  ground  for  a  potatoe  field,  which  would  now  be  worth 
one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  upon  the  stump.  Similar 
enormous  trees  are  still  found  in  the  interior  wilderness. 
A  gentleman  lately  stated  to  me,  that  he  had  seen  a  pine 
log,  which  in  floating  down  the  Raquette  river,  had  become 
stranded  in  a  cove,  which  measured  nearly  six  feet  in  dia 
meter. 

The  beauty  and  magnificence  of  the  forests  upon  the 
islands  and  shores  of  Lake  Champlain,  excited  the  admi 
ration  of  its  discoverer.  His  description  of  the  scenery  in 
this  particular  evinces  the  singular  accuracy  which  charac 
terises  his  entire  work.  He  speaks  of  "  the  quantity  of 
vines,  handsomer  than  any  1  ever  saw."  The  wild  grape 
is  still  found  upon  these  islands,  and  upon  the  mainland, 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  365 

in  the  greatest  profusion,  and  in  numerous  varieties  of 
color  and  flavor.  They  spread  their  tendrils  far  and  wide, 
often  overtopping  the  loftiest  trees  in  their  luxuriance  and 
beauty,  and  forming  barriers  in  their  tangled  branches,, 
impervious  to  man  or  beast.  In  the  month  of  July,  when 
Champlain  first  visited  the  lake,  he  could  only  see  and 
admire  the  splendor  of  the  vegetable  growth,  without  being 
able  to  judge  of  the  quality  of  the  fruit. 

The  shag  bark  hickory,  the  hazel,  the  butternut,  and  the 
chestnut,  now  rarely  found,  but  formerly  very  common  in 
the  southern  sections  of  the  county,  are  indigenous  to  the 
county.     The  various  species  of  the  maple,  birch,  beech, 
elms  and  oaks,  are  all  natives  of  these  woodlands,  and  often 
attain  in  the  primitive  forest  a  magnificent  growth.     The 
white   cedar   of  great  beauty   arid   size   abounds   in   the 
swamps,  and  often  appear  in  large  numbers  on  the  uplands. 
I  noticed  them,  far  upon  the  acclivities  of  the  Adirondaes,. 
ofjimmense  proportions,  but  observed,  and  was  assured 
that  the  fact  was  uniform,  that,  although  beautiful  in  their 
exterior  appearance,  they  were  defective  and  hollow  at  the 
core.     The  red  cedar  was  discovered  at  the  first  occupa 
tion  of  the  country,  but  is  nearly  extirpated.      Several 
varieties  of  the  maple  and  birches,  the  black  walnut,  the 
black  cherry  and  butternut,  often  stately  and  splendid  trees, 
are  highly  valued  in  the  arts  and  manufactures,  and  are 
exported  in  considerable  quantities  for  the  purpose.     The 
oaks  (particularly  the  white  oak),  were  formerly  of  great 
importance,  and  still  continue  to  a  considerable  extent,  as 
articles  of  exportation,  at  one  period,  to  Canadar  but  now 
to  the  southern  markets.     The  larch  or  hackmatack,  is 
abundant  and  highly  valuable.     This  timber  with  the  cedar 
and  oak,  affords  most  excellent  material  in  ship  building. 
The  juniper  flourishes  in  great  abundance  in  many  sections 
of  the  county,  indicating,  however,  by  its  presence  a  thin 
and  sterile  soil.     It  spreads,  a  few  inches  elevated  above  the 
earth,  a  thick  and  perfect  umbel,  often  several  feet  in  dia 
meter,  mantled  by  a  deep  and  rich  green  foliage..     Stand- 


366  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

ing  in  solitary  plants  or  in  clusters,  it  imparts  an  unique 
and  highly  ornamental  feature  to  the  scenery. 

The  product  of  wood,  in  the  primitive  and  vigorous 
forests,  is  vast ;  upon  exuberant  soils,  sometimes  exceed 
ing  one  hundred  cords  to  the  acre,  and  among  the  rocks 
and  broken  acclivities,  seldom  yielding  less  than  twenty 
cords.  Within  an  area  of  several  miles  around  manufac 
turing  works,  the  value  of  the  wood,  standing,  ranges  from 
twenty-five  cents  to  one  dollar  and  a  half  the  cord,  con 
trolled  in  its  price  by  its  quality  and  position.  This 
estimate  refers  to  localities  where  the  advantages  of  trans 
portation  authorize  the  erection  of  manufactories,  and  not 
to  regions  more  remote  and  inaccessible.  Such  districts 
are  happily  rare  in  the  county,  and  are  rapidly  diminishing 
before  the  progress  of  improving  facilities  of  intercourse. 
At  one  period,  a  large  demand  existed  for  wood  to  be  used 
as  fuel  in  steam  boats. 

The  quantity  of  wood  in  Essex  county,  consumed  for 
manufacturing  purposes,  has  been  immense,  and  can  only 
be  computed  by  a  rough  approximation.  It  probably 
should  be  estimated  by  hundreds  of  thousands  of  cords. 
A  great  change  has  in  late  years  occurred  in  the  substitu 
tion,  in  many  manufactories  and  generally  with  steam  boats, 
of  mineral  coal  for  the  charcoal  and  wood.  This  is  due  to 
the  increasing  scarcity  and  enhanced  price  of  wood,  and  to 
other  economic  views.  In  extensive  districts  of  the  county 
where  the  wood  has  been  cut  exclusively  for  coaling,  and 
the  land  is  not  required  for  agricultural  pursuits,  a  second 
spontaneous  growth  rapidly  shoots  up,  soon  mantling  the 
earth  with  a  luxuriant  product,  which  in  the  term  of  fifteen 
or  twenty  years,  yields  a  heavy  burthen  of  wood  and  timber. 
This  growth  rarely  contains  plants  of  the  original  forest, 
but  is  usually  composed  of  trees  of  a  totally  dissimilar 
character.  Pine  is  usually  succeeded  by  hard  wood,  and 
the  site  of  a  forest  of  the  latter  is  occupied  by  evergreens. 
Different  sections  of  the  county  produce  in  this  aspect, 
irregular  and  various  results.  The  aspen,  yellow  poplar, 
white  birch,  and  oaks,  generally  succeed  the  pines ;  but  in 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  367 

the  vicinity  of  the  Adirondac  works,  the  small  red  cherry 
is  almost  the  exclusive  second  growth  succeeding  the  stately 
hard  wood  forest.  The  dry  and  loamy  plains  contiguous  to 
the  Elba  works,  of  a  past  generation,  which  were  cut  over 
to  supply  them  with  fuel,  are  now  clothed  with  forests  of 
spruce.  The  latter  fact  is  remarkable  and  worthy  of  reflec 
tion,  as  the  habits  and  peculiarities  of  the  spruce  in  its 
natural  position  adapt  it  to  a  totally  different  soil.  This 
recuperation  of  the  woodland,  which  nature  thus  bounti 
fully  provides,  may  in  connection  with  the  waste  and 
broken  territory,  afford,  by  judicious  economy  and  manage 
ment,  a  certain  and  permanent  supply  of  fuel,  to  all  the 
arts  for  many  ages. 

I  observed  in  my  investigations  relative  to  this  second 
growth,  circumstances  that  excited  my  attention,  and  which 
I  deem  entitled  to  consideration.  In  the  fastnesses  of  the 
Adirondacs  I  perceived  entire  groves  of  the  young  cherry 
trees,  loaded  with  a  black  excrescence,  similar  in  appear 
ance  to  the  disease  which  has  been  so  destructive  in  our 
plum  orchards.  In  other  sections  of  the  county,  I  noticed 
large  tracts  of  the  black  cherry  and  birch,  dead  and  dying, 
and  presenting  in  their  blackened  and  blasted  bark,  the 
aspect  of  the  pear  and  apple  trees  which  have  been  visited 
by  the  destroying  fire  blight.  If,  as  I  conjecture,  these 
diseases  are  identical  'with  those  known  to  our  gardens 
(their  results  are  certainly  very  analogous),  does  not  the  fact 
open  an  interesting  field  for  the  researches  of  science,  as  to 
their  origin,  causes,  and  operations? 

The  chestnut  groves,  which  so  beautifully  adorn  some  of 
the  northern  towns  of  Warren  county,  only  enter  the  con 
fines  of  Essex.  The  sweet  walnut  is,  however,  widely 
scattered  over  various  sections  of  the  county,  and  flourishes 
in  great  profusion  and  beauty,  in  the  lovely  tract  that  spreads 
from  the  cliffs  of  Lake  George  to  Champlain.  When  the 
early  frosts  of  autumn  have  opened  the  husks,  and  their 
luscious  treasures  are  poured  upon  the  earth,  the  bright, 
shouting,  joyous  groups  of  nutting  children,  which  gather 


368  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

beneath  their  boughs,  communicate   to    the  landscape  "a 
most  primitive  and  pastoral  scene. 

Spreading  from  the  warm  soil  that  borders  Cham  plain, 
to  the  Alpine  summits  of  the  Adirondacs,  where  almost 
the  rigors  of  the  frigid  zone  are  stamped  upon  the  climate, 
the  soil  of  Essex  county,  naturally  imparts  a  great  diver 
sity  to  its  botanical  productions.  There  is  nothing,  how 
ever,  so  distinct  or  novel,  as  necessarily  to  require  notice 
in  a  work  of  this  character.  The  cryptogamic  plants  are 
exceeding  rich  and  exuberant. 

CLIMATE  AND  WINDS. 

Grave  senators  who  have  pronounced  northern  New 
York  the  Siberian  district  of  America,  exhibit  more  fancy 
on  the  subject,  than  intelligence.  No  climate  is  more  salu 
brious,  or  better  calculated  to  secure  enjoyment  and  comfort 
to  man.  The  atmosphere,  clear,  elastic  and  invigorating, 
bears  no  miasmatic  exhalations.  The  winters  of  this  climate 
are  often  severe  but  equable.  The  summers  are  warm, 
and  yield  a  rapid  impulse  to  vegetation,  that  promotes  an 
early  maturity.  The  heat  of  summer  is  modified  by  the 
cool  and  exhilarating  breezes  of  the  lakes  and  mountains. 
A  signal  difference  occurs  in  the  climate  and  seasons  of 
the  territory  bordering  upon  the  shores  of  Lake  Champlain 
and  that  of  a  few  miles  in  the  interior.  The  influence  of 
that  large  expanse  of  fresh  water  mitigates  equally  the 
rigors  of  the  winters  and  the  heats  of  summer.  The  terri 
tory  bordering  upon  the  lake  has  usually  an  exemption  of 
at  least  two  weeks  from  the  late  frosts  of  the  spring  and 
the  early  frosts  of  autumn,  to  which  the  interior  is  ex 
posed.  "The  fact  is  well  authenticated,  although  its  philo 
sophy  may  not  be  so  readily  explained,  that  premature 
frosts  often  occur  in  the  meridian  of  Pennsylvania  when 
the  valleys  of  Essex  county  are  totally  free  from  its  effects. 
The  snows  accumulate  among  the  mountains  and  in  the 
higher  valleys  to  the  depth  of  several  feet,  although  in 
most  parts  of  the  county  they  are  less  abundant  than  in 
the  western  or  central  sections  of  the  state;  they  remain, 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  369 

however,  longer  upon  the  earth.  An  excess  of  snow  is  a 
rare  event,  although  the  want  of  it  often  embarrasses  the 
operations  of  business. 

The  absence  of  snow  as  well  as  rain  is  peculiar  to  the 
valley  of  the  Au  Sable,  and  in  many  seasons,  essentially 
affects  its  agricultural  and  manufacturing  prosperity.  No 
part  of  the  country  is  visited  more  frequently  by  protracted 
and  blighting  draughts  than  this  district.  The  circum 
stance  is  universally  remarked,  and  may  satisfactorily  be 
imputed  to  the  influence  of  the  mountains  and  lake  upon 
the  atmospheric  currents.  These  aerial  currents,  governed 
by  much  the  same  laws  which  control  the  course  of  all 
fluids,  are  involved  in  eddies  created  by  the  gorges  and  ra 
vines  of  the  mountains,  are  arrested  by  their  airy  summits, 
and  often  receive  a  direction  from  these  causes.  Clouds, 
not  unfrequently,  are  perceived  approaching  the  valleys, 
bearing  r  tin  and  portentous  of  thunder  and  lightning, 
when  in  a  moment  their  course  is  changed,  and  skimming 
along  the  acclivities  of  the  mountains,  they  pour  upon 
them  their  contents.  Hence,  in  a  dry  season  when  nature 
elsewhere  is  parched  and  seared,  the  slopes  of  these  moun 
tains  smile  in  verdant  and  luxuriant  beauty.  The  move 
ments  of  these  atmospheric  streams,  witnessed  from  the 
valleys  embosomed  by  lofty  mountains,  are  often  beautiful 
and  sublime  exhibitions. 

A  valued  correspondent l  furnished  me  with  several 
highly  interesting  facts  illustrative  of  this  subject.  The 
amphitheatre  of  mountains  that  nearly  surround  North 
Elba,  is  imperfect  on  the  western  side  from  whence  the 
plateau  spreads  far  into  the  interior.  Volumes  of  clouds 
often  advance  from  that  direction,  until  entering  within 
the  influence  of  these  currents,  they  suddenly  divide,  the 
dissevered  masses  passing  to  the  north  and  south,  along 
the  brows  of  the  respective  mountains.  He  describes  a 
scene  of  singular  grandeur  and  sublimity,  that  occurred  at 
North  Elba  in  1847,  and  strikingly  elucidates  this  remark  - 

]  T.  L.  Nash. 
24 


370  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

able  influence.  On  a  still  and  sultry  evening  of  summer, 
when  not  a  breeze  moved  tbe  leaf,  a  dark  and  heavy  bank 
of  clouds  suddenly  appeared  in  the  western  horizon,  and 
gradually  approaching,  menaced  an  immediate  and  vio 
lent  storm.  Whilst  gazing  upon  the  advance  of  the 
impending  tempest,  he  beheld  in  a  moment  the  masses 
rent  asunder.  One  column  rushed  along  the  crest  of 
Whiteface,  and  the  other  amid  pealings  of  thunder  and 
torrents  of  rain,  careered  over  the  lofty  summits  of  the 
Adirondacs,  whilst  in  the  valley,  an  instant  before  threat 
ened  by  the  tornado,  all  was  serene  and  calm,  and  the 
moon  and  stars  beamed  softly  upon  it,  through  the  riven 
canopy  of  black  and  flashing  clouds.  I  introduce  these 
impressive  incidents  to  illustrate  the  powerful  agency  which 
is  exerted  on  the  elements,  by  these  lofty  pinnacles. 

The  winds  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Champlain  are  mate 
rially  modified  in  their  direction  by  its  influence. 

The  aurora  borealis,  displayed  in  the  latitude  of  Essex 
county  in  transcendent  splendor  and  effulgence,  exerts,  it 
is  believed,  at  times  a  decisive  effect  upon  the  course  and 
character  of  the  atmospheric  current.  The  exhibition  of 
that  phenomenon  is  generally,  if  not  uniformly  succeeded 
by  a  prevalence  of  southerly  winds.  The  duration  and 
severity  of  the  one  seems  proportionate  to  the  intensity  and 
expansion  of  the  other. 

The  climate  of  northern  New  York,  has,  since  its  dis 
covery,  gradually,  but  very  decidedly  ameliorated.  The 
improvements  which  have  removed  the  forests,  and  ex 
posed  the  earth  to  the  action  of  the  sun  and  atmosphere 
have  eminently  tended  to  promote  amelioration.  The 
winters  are  pronounced  by  aged  settlers  to  be  at  this  time, 
far  less  rigorous  and  protracted,  than  in  their  early  recol 
lections  of  the  country.  The  rains  are  now  more  equally 
diffused  through  the  mild  seasons,  and  not  falling  as 
formerly  in  periodical  and  severe  tempests.1  The  autumnal 
season  is  the  glory  of  this  climate,  often  lingering  late  into 

1  John  Hoffnagle,  Esq. 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


371 


November,  and  clothing  the  forests  with  its  gorgeous 
and  brilliant  robes.  It  is,  to  all  animated  nature,  the  most 
delightful  and  joyous  period  of  the  year,  fraught  with  bless 
ings  and  pleasure,  and  bearing  the  inspiration  of  health 
and  vigor. 

Hardy  stock  is  often  turned  off  by  the  1st  of  April, 
although  the  20th  of  that  month  may  be  regarded  as  the 
average  period  when  grazing  may  be  relied  upon.  The 
commencement  of  foddering  usually  ranges  with  the 
varieties  of  stock,  from  the  15th  of  November  to  Christmas. 
Plowing  commences  in  a  series  of  years,  about  the  middle 
of  April,  and  usually  terminates  in  November,  although  in 
some  seasons  it  is  extended  into  the  last  days  of  the  year. 

The  table  which  the  following  is  a  copy,  has  been  formed 
by  the  careful  observation  of  Mr.  Alvin  Colvin  at  Port 
Kent  for  a  series  of  years,  and  exhibits  very  interesting  facts 
in  illustration  of  the  climate  and  seasons  on  Lake  Cham- 
plain. 

Trips  between  Burlington  and  Port  Kent,  each  year. 


Last  Trips. 

First  Trips. 

Steamer  Saranac,         Jan. 

1,  1845 

Steamer  Winooski, 

April     1,  1845 

Schooner  LaFayette,   Feb. 

3,  1845 

Steamer  Saranac,        Jan. 

3,  1846 

"      Winooski, 

April     7,  1846 

Sloop  Cashier,              Feb. 

1,  1846 

Steamer  Saranac,         Jan. 

5,  1847 

"       Saranac, 

May'    7,1847 

"       John  Gilpin,  Feb. 

8,  1848 

"      Ethan  Allen 

,  March  30,  1848 

Ethan  Allen,  Jan. 

6,  1849 

"       Saranac, 

April  16,  1849 

"       LaFayette,    Jan. 

11,  1849 

"       Saranac,        Jan. 

15,  1850 

"      Saranac, 

March  26,  1850 

Sail  boats  ran  all  winter. 

1850 

Steamer  Saranac,        Jan. 

25,  1851 

"       Saranac, 

April      1,  1851 

"       Boston,          Jan. 

25,  1852 

"      Boston, 

April    25,  1852 

"       Boston,           Feb. 

10,  1853 

"      Boston, 

April    15,  1853 

Francis  Saltus,  Jan. 

23,  1854 

"       Saranac, 

April     19,  1854 

Sloop  Danl.  Webster,  Jan. 

24,  1855 

"      Boston, 

April    20,  1855 

Steamer  Francis  Saltus,  Jan. 

19,  1856 

"      Boston, 

April    21,  1856 

"       Montreal,      Jan. 

9,  1857 

"       Montreal, 

April     10,  1857 

"       Montreal,      Feb. 

1,  1858 

"      Montreal, 

April      7,  1858 

J.  Clark,        Feb. 

7,  1858 

"       Montreal,      Jan. 

9,  1859 

"      Montreal, 

April      2,  1859 

Sail  boat  ran  to,          Jan. 

25,  1860 

Schooner  Excelsior, 

March  28,  1860 

Steamer  Montreal, 

April      4,  1860 

Steamer  Boston,          Jan. 

10,  1861 

"       Boston, 

April    15,  1861 

"       Boston,          Jan. 

1,  1862 

"      Boston, 

April    28,  1862 

Sail  boat  ran  to,          Feb. 

1,  1862 

Steamer  Boston,          Jan. 

21,  1863 

"      Montreal, 

April    27,  1863 

372 


HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 


Last  Trips. 

Sail  boat  ran  to,          Jan. 
Steamer  Boston,          Feb. 

Steamer  Montreal,      Jan. 
Lake  closed,  Jan. 

Schooner  Excelsior,    Jan. 

Steamer  Montreal,      Jan. 
Sail  boats  run  all  winter. 
Steamer  Montreal,       Jan. 
Lake  froze  to  Burling 
ton,  Jan, 


First  Trips. 


88, 

1863 

Boat  J.  G.  Weather- 

18, 

1864 

bee, 

March 

30, 

1864 

Steamer  Montreal, 

April 

8, 

1864 

14, 

1865 

"      Montreal, 

April 

7, 

1865 

is. 

1865 

°l 

1866 

Boat  Oregon, 

April 

11, 

1866 

Steamer  Montreal, 

April 

12, 

1866 

11, 

1867 

"       Montreal, 

April 

15, 

1867 

4, 

1868 

"      Montreal, 

April 

17, 

1868 

11. 

1868 

MINERALOGY  AND  GEOLOGY. 

THE  ADIRONDAC  DISTRICT. 

The  field  of  researches  presented  by  Essex  county  in 
these  departments  is  so  expanded  and  rich,  that  the  labor 
of  years  would  be  required  for  its  competent  examination. 

The  mineral  wealth  of  Essex  county  is  not  limited  to 
iron  ore,  but  comprehends  numerous  other  minerals  of 
great  interest  and  value.  Iron,  however,  in  immense 
deposits,  constitute  its  predominant  resource.  In  many 
sections  of  the  county,  it  forms  the  basis  of  the  entire 
structure  of  the  earth,  and  occurs  not  merely  in  veins,  nor 
even  masses,  but  in  strata  which  rise  into  mountains.  The 
surface  is  often  strewn  with  boulders  of  iron  ore,  weighing 
from  a  few  pounds  to  many  tons,  as  ordinary  rocks  are 
scattered  in  other  districts.  The  Adirondac  district  is 
probably  surpassed  in  no  region  in  the  extent  of  its  deposits 
of  iron,  and  the  higher  qualities  and  varied  properties  of 
its  ores.  The  ores  seem  to  concentrate  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  village  of  Adirondac,  and  here  literally  constitute  the 
formation.  The  cellars  of  their  dwellings,  in  many  in 
stances,  are  excavated  in  the  massive  beds. 

The  discovery  of  a  mineral  deposit,  extensive  and  valua 
ble,  as  the  Adirondac  Iron  District,  is  an  event  so  rare  and 
important,  that  it  seems  appropriate  in  a  work  of  this 
character,  to  perpetuate  its  minute  history.  An  Indian 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  373 

approached  the  late  David  Henderson,  Esq.,  of  Jersey  city, 
in  the  year  1826,  whilst  standing  near  the  Elba  iron  works, 
and  taking  from  beneath  his  blanket  a  piece  of  iron  ore, 
he  presented  it  to  Mr.  H.  with  the  inquiry  expressed  in  his 
imperfect  English,  "You  want  to  see  'um  ore,  me  fine 
plenty — all  same."  When  asked  where  it  came  from,  he 
pointed  towards  the  south-west  and  explained  "  me  hunt 
beaver  all  'lone,  and  fine  'um,  where  water  run  over  iron 
dam."  The  Indian  proved  to  be  a  brave  of  St.  Francis 
tribe,  honest,  quiet  and  intelligent,  who  spent  the  sum 
mers  in  hunting  amid  the  wilds  of  the  Adirondacs.  An 
exploring  party,  consisting  of  Mr.  Henderson,  Messrs. 
Duncan  and  Malcolm  McMartin,  John  McD.  Mclntyre, 
and  Dyer  Thompson,  was  promptly  arranged,  who  submit 
ting  themselves  to  the  guidance  of  the  Indian,  plunged 
into  the  pathless  forest.  The  first  night  they  made  their 
bivouac  beneath  the  giant  walls  of  the  Indian  pass.  The 
next  day  they  reached  the  site  of  the  present  works,  and 
there  saw  the  strange  spectacle  described  by  the  brave; 
the  actual  flow  of  a  river  over  an  iron  dam,  created  by  a 
ledge  of  ore,  which  formed  a  barrier  across  the  stream. 
The  reconnaissance  revealed  to  their  astonished  view, 
various  and  immense  deposits  of  ore,  equal  almost  to  the 
demands  of  the  world  for  ages.  A  glance  disclosed  the 
combination  in  that  secluded  spot  of  all  the  ingredients, 
and  every  facility  for  the  most  extensive  manufacture  of 
iron,  in  all  its  departments.  In  close  proximity  existed  an 
illimitable  supply  of  ore,  boundless  forests  of  hard  wood 
and  an  abundant  water  power.  The  remote  position  of 
the  locality  formed  the  chief  impediment  to  the  scheme, 
which  was  adopted  at  once  by  the  explorers.  Having  ac 
complished  a  hasty,  but  satisfactory  examination  of  the 
deposit,  the  party  with  no  delay  that  might  attract  attention, 
the  same  night  and  in  intense  darkness  and  a  driving 
storm,  retraced  their  path  through  the  forest,  after  having 
carefully  concealed  the  evidences  of  their  work.  Messrs. 
Henderson  and  McMartin,  taking  with  them  the  Indian,  of 
whom  they  did  not  deem  it  safe  to  lose  sight,  proceeded 


374  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY 

directly  to  Albany,  and  there  effected  the  purchase  from 
the  state  of  an  extended  tract  embracing  the  scene  of  this 
remarkable  discovery.1  A  road  was  soon  constructed  to 
the  site  with  slight  aid  from  the  state,  at  great  expense, 
through  a  dense  uninterrupted  forest  of  thirty  miles  in 
length.  The  purpose  w{)S  pursued  with  untiring  energy 
and  strong  enthusiasm,  by  the  proprietors,  Archibald  Mc- 
Intyre,  Archibald  Robertson  and  David  Henderson,  Esqs. 
A  settlement  was  soon  commenced  and  an  experimental 
furnace  constructed.  Iron  was  produced  of  rare  and 
valuable  qualities,  rivaling  almost  in  toughness  and  strength 
the  best  products  of  the  Swedish  furnaces.  A  small  blast 
furnace  was  soon  afterwards  erected,  together  with  several 
forge  fires  and  a  puddling  furnace.  Bar  iron  was  subse 
quently  fabricated  to  a  considerable  extent.  Iron  produced 
from  this  ore  has  proved  admirably  adapted  to  the  manu 
facture  of  steel,  and  has  been  extensively  used  for  that 
purpose  by  the  steel  works  of  the  Adirondac  Company  at 
Jersey  city.2  I  need  only  refer  in  addition  to  the  report 
of  Mr.  Johnson  which  exhibits  the  triumphant  display  of 
that  steel  at  the  World's  Fair.  A  magnificent  blast  fur 
nace  was  completed  about  1850  at  the  Adirdondac  works, 
of  the  largest  dimensions,  perfect  in  its  construction  and 
powers,  and  most  judiciously  adjusted  in  all  its  arrange 
ments.  The  first  furnace  had  been  erected  in  1848. 

Numerous  ore  beds  exist  within  an  area  of  three  miles, 
and  nearly  all  are  comprised  within  half  that  distance 
from  the  works.  They  are  singularly  distinct  in  the 
appearance,*  nature,  and  quality  of  the  ores.3  The  Mill- 
pond  ore  bed  is  situated  in  so  immediate  proximity  with 

1  Mr.  Henderson's  Journal. 

2SeeJ.  Dellafield's  address,  page  143,  State  Agricultural  Transactions, 

1851. 

'I  derive  much  of  my  information  relative  to  the  history  and  minerals  of 
the  Adirondacs,  from  the  valuable  manuscripts  prepared  at  my  request,  by 
Alexander  Ralph  and  Robert  Clark,  Esq.  I  have  before  me  a  copy  of  the 
original  journal  of  Mr.  Henderson,  furnished  me  by  Mr.  Clark,  now  of 
Cincinnati.  I  regret  that  my  space  will  not  allow  me  to  publish  these 
highly  interesting  documents. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  375 

the  furnace  erected  by  the  company,  that  its  foundation 
rests  upon  a  section  of  the  vein.  The  length  of  this  bed, 
ascertained  by  the  actual  mensuration  of  Professor  Em- 
mons,  is  three  thousand  one  hundred  and  sixty-eight  feet, 
and  the  width  seven  hundred  feet.  An  opening  of  forty 
feet  in  depth  has  been  excavated,  and  at  that  point,  the 
ore  is  found  more  free  from  rock,  and  richer  than  at  the 
surface.  Its  hardness  is  not  of  that  character  which  con 
stitutes  the  hard  iron  of  the  mines,  nor  does  it  communi 
cate  that  quality  to  iron  which  it  yields.  Slight  injections 
of  serpentine  in  irregular  veins,  crystals  of  green  feldspar, 
seams  of  carbonate  of  lime,  and  the  common  rock,  are 
mingled  with  this  ore,  and  incidentally,  small  particles  of 
sulphuret  of  iron  may  be  traced,  although  too  minute  to 
injure  the  quality  of  the  ore.  This  bed  has  afforded  nearly 
all  the  ore  used  in  the  furnace. 

The  Sanford  Bed  is  situated  about  two  miles  from  the 
former,  and  'occupies  the  slope  of  a  hill,  which  terminates 
upon  Lake  Sanford.  The  elevation  of  the  bed  is  six 
hundred  or  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  lake,  but  is 
approached  by  a  gradual  and  easy  ascent.  This  ore  is  less 
coarse  than  the  preceding,  and  of  a  dark,  black  color. 
It  has,  when  exposed  in  the  bed,  almost  the  appearance 
and  form  of  a  stratified  rock.  It  possesses  great  and 
unusual  purity,  and  is  almost  entirely  exempt  from  stone. 
The  ore  may  be  projected  from  the  bed  to  the  lake,  by  an 
inclined  plane,  or  it  may  be  transported  by  teams  loaded 
within  the  bed.  The  width  of  this  vein  is  five  hundred 
and  fourteen  feet,  and  its  length  along  the  centre,  one 
thousand  six  hundred  and  sixty-seven.  At  each  extre 
mity  it  does  not  terminate,  but  passes  beneath  the  rock. 
E"o  correct  or  proximate  calculation  can  be  formed  of  the 
probable  contents  of  this  vast  deposit.  The  minimum 
estimate  exhibits  the  immense  amount  of  6,832,734  tons, 
which  may  principally  be  raised  without  blasting.  This 
would  yield  3,000,000  tons  of  the  purest  iron.1  Personal 

1Emmons's  report. 


376  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

examination,  corroborated  by  the  opinions  of  highly  prac 
tical  and  intelligent  men,  warrants  the  conjecture  that 
this  estimate  is  below  the  real  amount  of  ore.  Ores,  ex 
hibiting  similar  qualities,  crop  out  at  different  points, 
along  an  extension  of  the  same  course.  One  of  these 
indications  present  a  face  of  thirty-two  rods  in  length,  and 
fifteen  rods  in  width.  Such  facts  suggest  the  conclusion, 
that  these  veins  are  a  prolongation  of  the  Sanford  deposit, 
and  that  its  true  magnitude  may  embrace  a  distance  of 
two  miles  and  a  half  in  length,  with  a  proportionate  width. 
Another  important  deposit,  known  as  Mount  Magnet, 
apparently  forms  the  mass  of  an  eminence  directly  east 
and  fronting  the  village.  This  is  distinguished  as  the 
fine  grained  ore  bed.  This  is  very  marked  and  peculiar 
in  its  characteristics.  Although  it  is  generally  firm,  with 
grains  closely  cemented  together,  it  often  becomes  ex 
tremely  friable  when  exposed  to  atmospheric  influence. 
The  oxidation  makes  it  appear  as  if  mingled  with  rock. 
On  the  surface  it  has  an  aspect  of  leanness,  although 
singularly  rich,  free  from  impurities,  and  probably  of 
more  practical  value  for  the  furnace,  than  either  of  the 
preceding  veins.1 

This  vein  is  remarkably  uniform  and  regular,  and 
extends  in  length  five  thousand  seven  hundred  and  forty- 
two  feet,  and  in  width  about  seventy  feet.2  It  exhibits  a 
strong  appearance  of  stratification  in  the  bed.  The  divi 
sional  seams  are  very  distinct  at  the  surface,  but  like  those 
in  the  hyperstene  rock,  they  are  the  result  of  a  law  of 
nature  analogous,  if  not  identical,  to  the  principle  of  crys- 
talization.  A  small  vein,  or  probably  a  branch  of  this 
bed,  occurs  in  the  same  hill,  and  is  designated  the  crystal- 
ized  ore  bed.  This  vein  is  lined  on  the  sides  by  a  wall  a 
few  inches  thick,  formed  of  pure  hornblende.  A  rare  and 
peculiar  formation.  On  the  eastern  slope  of  the  same 
eminence,  another  vein  of  fine  grained  ore  is  developed, 
and  probably  of  equal  extent  with  that  already  noticed. 

1 R.  Clark.        a  Professor  Emmons. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  377 

The  Cheney  bed,  situated  about  three  miles  west  of  Lake 
Sanford,  yields  the  finest  grained  ore  of  the  district.  It 
occurs  in  gneiss,  and  differs  from  every  other  vein  in  that 
peculiarity.  Numerous  other  veins  are  known  to  exist 
in  proximity  to  these,  but  have  only  been  superficially 
explored.  A  supply  of  ores,  that  the  consumption  of 
centuries  cannot  exhaust,  immediately  encompasses  these 
works.  Little  doubt  can  exist  that  the  entire  district  con 
stitutes  one  vast  formation  of  ore,  concealed  by  a  narrow 
and  slight  encrustation  of  earth  and  rock.  I  found,  in 
the  centre  of  the  Indian  pass,  a  specimen  of  ore,  closely 
analogous  to  the  ore  of  the  Sanford  bed.  These  ores  are 
all  varieties  of  the  black  oxide  of  iron,  exhibiting  a  mecha 
nical  mixture  of  the  protoxide  and  peroxide  of  iron. 

I  propose  to  deviate  from  the  formal  arrangement  of 
my  subject,  in  order  to  present  in  one  group,  the  varied 
and  interesting  topics  embraced  in  this  important  district. 
An  exhibition  in  one  view,  of  its  striking  features;  of  its 
geology  and  mineralogy,  the  peculiar  harmony  and  adap 
tation  of  its  resources  to  sustain  its  great  predominant 
interest,  will  enable  the  reader  more  distinctly  to  appre 
hend  the  nature,  the  varied  capacities,  and  singular 
advantages  of  this  extraordinary  region.  "When  appro 
priate  avenues,  equal  to  its  resources,  shall  connect  it 
with  the  marts  of  commerce,  the  Adirondac  iron  district, 
it  is  adjudged,  is  capable  of  being  made,  and  will  pro 
bably  attain  a  position  among  the  most  extended  and 
wealthiest  iron  manufactories  of  the  earth.  This  strong 
declaration  is  predicated  upon  the  facts,  that  these  ores, 
so  singularly  and  distinctly  varied  in  their  properties, 
that  they  are  adapted  to  the  manufacture  of  every  iron 
fabric ;  that  they  are  inexhaustible  and  of  the  easiest 
access  for  working;  that  the  stately  forests  which  mantle 
the  mountains,  encircling  these  works,  are  nearly  as 
boundless  as  the  ores ;  and  that  every  material,  almost 
essential  to  the  manufacture,  are  embraced  within  the 
district.  Clay  prevails  contiguous  to  the  works,  of  a 
quality,  it  is  believed,  adapted  to  the  manufacture  of  the 


378  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

required  brick.  Lime  is  abundant,  and,  although  par 
tially  affected  by  native  impurities,  may  be  converted  to 
the  desired  purposes.  The  hydraulic  power  will  ever 
remain,  and  be  always  adequate  to  every  demand.  The 
resources  of  this  region  will  ultimately  compel  the  con 
struction  of  appropriate  avenues  to  it. 

The  upper  works,  and  the  village  of  Adirondac,  are 
situated  upon  the  river,  midway  between  Lakes  Hender 
son  and  Sanford,  in  a  narrow  ravine,  embosomed  amid 
the  lofty  pinnacles  that  surround  it.  This  neat  little 
village  realizes  to  the  mind  our  ideality  of  a  Swiss  ham 
let,  its  lake,  its  river,  its  mountains  "  crowned  with  their 
coronal  of  snow."  Lake  Henderson,  in  exceeding  loveli 
ness,  slumbers  in  quiet  and  beauty  at  the  foot  of  the 
giant  Santonine,  and  is  almost  enveloped  in  a  mountain 
screen.  These  works,  by  the  existing  circuitous  road, 
are  about  fifty  miles  removed  from  Lake  Champlain. 

A  ponderous  and  costly  dam  erected  by  the  Adirondac 
Company,  at  the  lower  works,  a  distance  of  ten  miles, 
throws  back  the  volume  of  water  to  the  very  base  of  a 
dam  erected  at  the  upper  works,  in  connection  with  the 
furnace  completed  in  1861.  This  fact  affords  striking 
evidence  of  the  formation  of  the  country.  An  excellent 
water  communication  is  created  by  this  improvement 
between  the  upper  and  lower  works.  At  each  extremity 
of  the  navigation,  wharves,  cranes,  and  every  other  appli 
ance,  are  constructed  to  facilitate  the  transportation  of 
heavy  commodities.  A  survey  has  established  the  exist 
ence  of  a  practicable  and  cheap  route  for  either  a  rail 
road  or  a  plank  road,  from  the  lower  works  to  the  Schroon 
valley,  a  distance  of  only  eighteen  miles.  The  wants  of 
an  industrious  community,  and  the  exigencies  of  general 
business,  must  secure  the  construction  of  a  rail  road 
through  that  valley  to  the  Hudson.  When  this  most 
desirable  project  is  accomplished,  the  furnaces  and  ore 
beds  of  the  Adirondac  district  will  be  separated  by  a 
land  transportation  of  only  eighteen  miles  from  New 
York.  The  rail  road  at  this  moment  approaching  Essex 


NATURAL  HISTORY  379 

county  through  "Warren,  promises  still  more  practical 
result,  by  penetrating  in  its  proposed  route,  within  a  few 
miles  of  the  Adirondac  mines. 

The  lofty  group  of  mountains  which  occupy  this  region 
formed  almost  exclusively  of  the  hyperstene  rock,  which 
has  been  rendered  somewhat  familiar  to  the  scientific 
world  by  the  reports  of  the  state  geologists.  This  rock, 
in  different  proportions,  is  diffused  through  almost  every 
section  of  the  county.  The  mineral  hyperstene  from 
which  it  derives  its  name,  is  incorporated  in  it,  in  very 
minute  quantities,  whilst  the  labradorite  or  opalescent 
feldspar  constitutes  its  most  conspicuous  element.  Al 
though  essentially  granite,  the  hyperstene  does  not  exhibit 
the  ordinary  appearance  of  that  rock.  Its  color,  as  revealed 
in  the  quarry,  is  a  smoky  gray.  In  some  quarries  it  is 
lighter,  and  in  others  it  presents  a  strong  green  tinge, 
which  forms  a  predominant  shade.  On  the  surface  this 
rock  is  seamy  to  so  great  a  degree,  as  to  present  almost  an 
appearance  of  stratification ;  deeper  in  the  quarry  it  is 
thrown  out  in  large  and  firm  blocks.  Its  beauty  is  greatly 
enhanced  when  lines  of  lighter  color  occur,  by  which  it  is 
traversed.  Experiments  have  been  successfully  made  in 
sawing  and  polishing  slabs  from  this  rock.  If  it  yields 
blocks  sufficiently  firm  and  consolidated  for  this  purpose, 
it  will  prove  a  most  valuable  and  desirable  material  for 
the  structure  of  the  delicate  and  ornamental  fabrics,  to 
which  the  choicest  marble  is  only  appropriated.  No 
Egyptian  stone  surpasses  it  in  its  beautiful  and  variegated 
colors,  or  in  the  brilliancy  of  its  lustre.  The  hyperstene 
is  equal  to  the  granite  as  a  building  material.  The 
labradorite  is  an  exquisitely  beautiful  mineral,  rivaling 
the  plumage  of  the  peacock  in  its  brilliant  iridescence 
when  wet  or  polished,  and  exposed  to  the  action  of  the 
light.1  Highly  opalescent  specimens  are  not  common, 
although  that  characteristic  is  partially  exhibited  in  every 
crystal.  Blue  is  the  predominant  shade,  at  times  mingled 

1 M.  Clark. 


380  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

with  green.  The  green  seldom  occurs  alone,  but  is  exceed 
ingly  brilliant  and  beautiful.  Gold  and  bronze  specimens 
are  occasionally  discovered,  and  rarely,  crystals  are  found 
combining  all  these  colors  in  a  splendid  iridescence.  At 
times  the  crystals  are  striated,  each  alternate  stria  showing 
the  opalescent  reflection.  Occasionally  two  colors  alternate 
in  the  same  crystal;  both  are  seldom  seen  in  the  same 
direction  of  light.  The  bed  of  the  Opalescent  river,  which 
derives  its  name  from  the  circumstance,  abounds  in  this 
mineral,  and  when  the  sun  shines  at  the  cascades  through 
the  clear  water,  the  whole  rock  seems  to  beam  and  glow 
with  the  refulgence  of  the  beautiful  gems.1  Bright  opal 
escent  specimens,  polished  and  in  settings,  are  highly 
valued  in  jewelry.  This  mineral  was  discovered  by  the 
Moravian  missionaries  in  Labrador,  and  when  originally 
introduced  into  England,  commanded  most  exorbitant 
prices.  There  are  but  few  foreign  minerals  enclosed  in 
the  hyperstene  rock.  Some  of  the  feldspar  taken  from  a 
vein  near  the  works  are  peculiarly  beautiful;  they  exhibit 
a  remarkable  glittering,  spangled  appearance.  Crystals 
of  iron  have  been  found  in  this  vein,  similar  to  the  crys- 
talized  ore.  Serpentine  is  also  sparsely  mingled  in  it.2 

Graphite  exists  in  this  locality,  but  has  not  been  dis 
covered  either  in  sufficient  extent  or  purity  to  give  it  value, 
although  often  found  in  very  beautiful  radiated  nodules. 
It  usually  occurs  in  small  quantities  at  the  juncture  of  the 
gneiss  and  primitive  limestone  rocks.  Slight  veins  of  trap 
are  numerous,  and,  I  may  add,  to  avoid  recurrence  to  the 
subject,  that  this  rock  is  prevalent  in  almost  every  section 
of  the  county,  sometimes  exhibiting  extensive  walls,  and 
forming  the  dyke  of  most  of  the  iron  ore  beds.  At  Jay, 
Jower  village,  it  spans  the  river  in  a  massive  dam.  Re 
markable  developments  of  trap  dykes  occur  both  on  Mt. 
McMartin  and  Mt.  Mclntyre,  on  the  former  its  disintegra 
tion  has  formed  a  huge  gorge,  which,  at  its  entrance,  is 

1 R.  Clark.         2  Idem. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  381 

one  hundred  feet  wide  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
deep.  This  gorge  beautifully  discloses  the  entire  stratifi 
cation  of  the  rock.  The  debris  from  the  gorge,  in  large 
masses,  was  deposited  in  Avalanche  lake.  This  lake  is  a 
fountain  head  of  the  Hudson,  situated  two  thousand  five 
hundred  feet  above  its  level,  and  is  probably  the  most 
elevated  body  of  water  in  the  state.  Its  cold  element  is 
only  inhabited  by  a  small  lizard. 

The  Adirondac  Company  was  originally  incorporated 
with  a  capital  of  $1,000,000.  Large  sums  have  been  dis 
bursed  in  the  progress  of  these  improvements,  in  opening 
the  wilderness,  and  in  a  series  of  experiments  upon  the 
ores  of  this  district.  The  tragic  death  of  Mr.  Henderson 
in  the  midst  of  these  scenes,  which  his  great  energy  and 
spirited  enterprise  had  tended  so  much  to  animate  and 
reveal,  impeded  these  efforts.  Not  a  sound,  not  a  pulsa 
tion  of  business  indicates  the  heart  of  a  region  boundless- 
in  the  wealth  of  nature. 

The  lofty  upheaval,  that  embraces  the  immense  de 
posits  of  iron  ore,  which  have  been  revealed  in  the  Adiron 
dac  district,  extends  northerly  through  Essex  and  into 
Clinton  county,  and  includes  the  town  of  Minerva  at 
the  south.  The  rocks  and  general  geological  formation 
throughout  this  extended  territory  are  closely  assimilated. 
In  Clinton  county,  this  range  is  the  site  of  most  of  the 
valuable  ore  beds  belonging  to  that  district. 

The  town  of  Minerva,  lying  directly  south  of  Newcombr 
exhibits  the  evidence  of  great  mineral  wealth,  although  but 
one  bed  of  iron  ore  has  been  actually  opened  and  partially 
worked.  In  the  language  of  a  correspondent;  "Minerva 
may  already  be  regarded  as  a  mineral  town,,  with  wood 
equal  to  the  supply  of  charcoal,  for  fifty  years/'  The  bed 
which  has  been  opened,  lies  on  lot  21,  township  25r 
Totten  and  Crossfield  purchase.  It  is  owned  by  a  com 
pany,  composed  of  Hon.  E.  H.  Eosekrans,  J.  C.  Durand, 
and  other  prominent  and  energetic  men.  On  the  surface, 
the  ore  is  somewhat  impregnated  with  sulphur,  but  as  the 
excavation  penetrates  the  deposit,  the  quality  of  the  ore 


382  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

obtained  is  pure,  rich,  and  highly  magnetic.  It  is  easily 
reduced,  and  is  pronounced  better  adapted  for  making  pig, 
than  bloom  iron,  but  has  produced  in  the  forge,  the  best 
quality  of  iron.1  The  abundant  presence  of  ore  on  the  ad 
joining  lot  No.  28,  and  upon  most  of  the  contiguous  ter 
ritory,  is  satisfactorily  ascertained.  In  comparing  the 
results  of  my  examinations  of  the  ore  beds  fifteen  years 
ago,  with  their  present  condition,  I  observe  many  striking 
changes  in  the  characteristics  of  the  ore.  In  the  ores 
from  several  of  these  mines,  sulphates,  phosphates  and  other 
foreign  substances  were  then  incorporated;  but  in  almost 
every  instance  in  which  the  mines  have  been  worked  to 
any  considerable  extent,  the  ore  is  now  wholly  or  nearly 
so  exempt  from  the  impurities. 

SCHROON. 

The  Schofield  Bed  is  situated  in  the  town  of  Schroon, 
near  the  head  of  Paradox  lake,  and  was  opened  in  the  year 
1828,  by  Horace  Hall.  Bar  iron  was  at  that  time  made 
in  the  Schroon  forge  from  the  ore  of  this  mine,  which 
was  worked  by  various  proprietors,  until  1845.  In  this 
year,  I  infer,  operations  were  suspended  at  the  bed.  An 
average  of  two  hundred  tons  of  iron  was  made  during  the 
above  period,  which  established  and  maintained  the  highest 
character  in  market.  The  bed  has  been  again  worked 
during  the  last  year  by  the  present  owner,  Mr.  John  Koth, 
and  the  ore  has  been  used  in  both  of  his  forges  in  Schroon, 
with  decided  success.  The  ore  yields  fifty  per  cent  of  iron 
of  the  first  class.  The  vein  is  only  from  three  to  four 
feet  in  thickness,  and  has  been  worked  about  two  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  in  length  and  from  twenty  to  sixty  feet  in 
depth.  Horse  power  is  used  in  hoisting  the  ore,  but  the 
pit  is  pumped  by  steam. 

The  Skiff  Bed  lies  about  two  miles  from  Paradox  lake. 
It  was  opened  by  A.  P.  Skift'in  the  year  1857,  but  is  now 
owned  by  Mr.  Roth.  This  ore,  like  that  from  the  Scho- 

1E.F.  Williams. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  383 

field  bed  possesses  the  highest  qualities,  but  the  same 
embarrassments  impede  at  present  its  successful  and  re 
munerative  development.  The  vein  is  small,  where  it  has 
been  disclosed,  and  is  compressed  between  walls  of  rock, 
that  immensely  enhance  the  difficulties  and  expense  of 
working  it.  The  energetic  owner,  under  the  conviction 
that  a  wider  vein  exists  and  can  be  reached,  has  already 
expended  many  thousands  of  dollars,  in  the  construction 
of  a  tunnel  at  the  base  of  a  mountain,  in  the  hope  of  re 
vealing  such  a  vein.  If  this  enterprise,  which  is  still  to  be 
pressed,  results  in  the  discovery  of  a  large  deposit  of  ore 
equal  to  that  which  has  been  worked,  this  bed  will  proba 
bly  be  made  one  of  the  most  valuable  in  the  region. 
The  ore  furnished  by  both  of  these  mines  is  generally 
conceded  to  be  equal  to  any  in  the  country. 

CROWN  POINT. 

Near  the  boundary  line  between  Schroon  and  Crown 
Point  two  iron  ore  beds  of  great  value  are  located,  which 
were  included  formerly  by  the  state  geologists  in  the  Mo- 
riah  district.  They  are  of  the  magnetic  type,  and  appear 
to  possess  inexhaustible  deposits  of  the  mineral.  They 
are  known  as  the  Hammond,  and  Penfield  mines.  These 
mines  are  situated  about  ten  miles  from  Lake  Charnplain. 

Hammond  Bed.  The  existence  of  this  mine  was  ascer 
tained  as  early  as  1827,  but  it  was  not  worked  extensively 
until  1845.  It  is  situated  on  lot  No.  278  in  Paradox  tract, 
and  is  now  owned  by  G.  &  T.  Hammond  and  E.  S. 
Bogue.  It  has  been  constantly  worked  since  1845,  and 
produces  an  average  of  about  four  thousand  tons  of  ore 
annually,  which  is  consumed  in  the  blast  furnace  of  the 
proprietors,  for  making  pig  iron.  It  requires  no  sepa 
rating.  It  is  a  black  magnetic  ore,  of  a  close,  fine  grain 
or  texture,  with  very  pure  white  quartz  in  small  particles 
disseminated  very  evenly  through  it.  The  ore  is  hard  to 
drill  and  sledge.  Worked  in  a  blast  furnace,  it  yields  a 
fluid  glassy  cinder,  and  makes  a  superior  quality  of  pig 
iron,  The  ore  has  no  infusion  of  sulphates  or  phos- 


38-1  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

phorus.  There  are  two  pits  opening  out  of  this  mine ; 
one  descends,  at  an  .angle  of  about  forty-five  degrees  to 
the  depth  of  four  hundred  feet,  and  the  other,  recently 
opened,  has  reached  a  descent  of  about  fifty  feet.  The 
ore  is  raised  by  horse  power.  In  1852,  I  saw  teams  loaded 
alongside  of  the  breast  of  ore.  The  Hammond  ore  pos 
sesses  the  highest  qualities  of  peculiar  strength  and  soft 
ness,  and  is  eminently  adapted  to  the  purposes  of  the 
foundery  and  the  fabrication  of  machinery.  The  harder 
parts  of  the  pig  metal  are  particularly  calculated  for  the 
manufacture  of  car  axles  and  malleable  articles.  The  ex 
treme  fluidity  of  this  iron,  and  the  long  time  it  remains 
fluid,  renders  it  highly  valuable  in  the  manufacture  of 
these  fabrics. 

Penfield  Bed  is  about  half  a  mile  from  the  Hammond 
bed.  The  ore  is  very  similar,  and  the  mines  are  probably 
parts  of  the  same  deposit.  The  Penfield  bed  was  first 
opened  many  years  since,  but  not  worked  to  any  extent 
until  1824,  when  it  was  opened  by  Messrs.  Penfield  & 
Taft.  Since  that  period,  it  has  been  in  constant  operation. 
It  was  subsequently  carried  on  by  Penfield  &  Son  ;  after 
wards  by  Penfield,  Harwood  &  Co.,  and  at  present  by 
Penfield  &  Harwood.  Although  worked  for  so  long  a 
term,  this  mine  exhibits  no  appearance  of  exhaustion. 
The  ore  excavated  is  used  in  the  forges  of  the  proprietors 
in  Crown  Point.  I  regret  that  I  have  been  unable  to 
procure  more  in  detail  statistics  of  this  highly  import 
ant  mine.  The  description,  however,  of  the  characteristics 
and  qualities  of  the  Hammond  ore  has  a  general  applica 
tion  to  the  ore  of  this  bed.  I  shall  refer  to  the  properties 
of  the  iron  it  produces,  in  my  notice  of  the  Irondale  forge. 

In  the  south  part  of  Crown  Point  large  deposits  occur  of 
magnetic  iron  ores,  but  these  are  strongly  impregnated 
with  sulphurets.  In  the  central  part  of  the  town  an  ore 
bed,  known  as  the  Saxe  bed  was  worked  about  forty  years 
ago  by  Jacob  Saxe,  and  used  in  a  blast  furnace,  of  which 
he  was  the  proprietor,  that  stood  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sal 
mon  river  in  Pittsburgh.  The  furnace  has  long  since  been 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  385 

abandoned  and  fallen  into  ruins.  The  bed  has  not  re 
cently  been  worked,  and  is  superseded  by  mines  yielding 
richer  and  more  desirable  ores.  The  Saxe  bed  and  ore 
are  fully  noticed  in  the  Natural  History  of  the  state,  part 
4,  Geology,  page  232. 

TlCONDEROGA. 

The  development  of  iron  ore  in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
town  of  Ticonderoga  has  not  been  favorable.  Graphite 
appears  at  present  to  be  the  prominent  mineral  of  the  dis 
trict.  A  bed  known  as  the  Vineyard  possesses  a  large  de 
posit  of  iron  ore,  but  it  is  so  impregnated  by  sulphur  as  to 
be  unavailable  for  practical  purposes.  A  vein  of  red 
oxide  has  been  opened,  from  which  about  one  thousand 
five  hundred  tons  of  ore  have  been  taken,  but  it  is  too 
hard  in  drilling  to  be  remunerative.  A  vein  of  magnetic 
ore  about  two  feet  wide  upon  Mount  Defiance  is  being 
opened  by  Weed  &  Burleigh.  A  shaft  is  excavating,  in  the 
hope  of  discovering  a  large  expansion  of  the  vein.  Upon 
the  Tub-mill  property  five  veins  of  iron  ore  have  been 
partially  opened,  and  afford  evidence  of  large  deposits  of 
good  ore.  They  are  situated  ten  miles  from  the  lake,  and 
have  been  only  partially  developed. 

MORIAH  IRON  DISTRICT. 

This  tract,  scarcely,  if  at  all  subordinate,  to  the  Adiron- 
dac  district  in  the  extent  of  its  deposits,  perhaps  superior 
in  the  quality  of  its  ores  and  far  more  eligibly  situated,  is 
calculated  to  excite  the  wonder  and  admiration  of  the 
observer.  The  immense  aggregate  of  iron  ore  which  has 
been  dug  from  those  rugged  hills,  instead  of  affording 
any  evidence  of  appreciable  diminution,  seems  to  prove  the 
boundless  magnitude  of  this  source  of  enterprise  and 
wealth.  As  these  excavations  widen  and  deepen,  and  the 
quantity  of  the  mineral  appears  to  augment,  its  quality 
almost  universally  improves.  An  air  of  life,  of  prosperity 
and  success  animates  the  whole  scene.  Activity  and  effort 
are  everywhere  impressed  upon  the  character  of  the  peo- 
25 


386  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

pie.  Idleness  in  this  stirring  community  has  no  tolerance. 
Brain  and  muscle  are  put  upon  their  highest  tension.  I 
propose  to  present  a  brief  outline  of  the  progress,  and  pre 
sent  condition  of  each  of  the  ore  beds  in  this  district  sepa 
rately,  and  although  I  have  made  every  effort  to  obtain 
ample  information  on  the  subject,  the  interests  are  so  diver 
sified  and  my  materials  so  incomplete,  I  fear  the  result  of 
my  labor  will  appear  inadequate  and  unsatisfactory. 

The  Cheever  Ore  Bed.  A  knowledge  of  the  existence  of 
ore  in  this  locality  appears  to  have  been  almost  cotempo- 
raneous  with  the  settlement.     The  first  child  born  in  the 
township  after  the  revolution,  who   is  still  living,1  states, 
that  his  earliest  recollections  are  associated  with  this  ore. 
It  cropped  out  so  prominently  on  the  surface,  as  to  attract 
the  notice  of  any  casual   observer.     Local  legends  refer 
the  earliest  working  of  the  mines  to  squatters  upon  the 
land  without  title.     Ore  is  known  to  have  been  procured 
from  the  bed  in   the  year  1804,  but  the  subject  excited 
slight  interest,  and   no   appreciation   existed  of  the   vast 
magnitude   and   incalculable   value   of  the   deposit.      In 
1820,  '21,  it  was  leased  to  a  Charles  Fisher,  at  a  rent  of 
two  gross  tons  of  bloom  iron,  worth  at  that  time,  one  hun 
dred  dollars  per  ton.2    I  have  found  it  difficult  to  trace  the 
varied  ownership  of  the  property,  but  ascertain  that  between 
thirty  and  forty  years  ago  the  title  was  in  a  person  named 
John  Coates,  to  whom  Dr.  Abijah  Cheever  as  guardian  of 
minor  children,  had  loaned   certain  funds.     Dr.  Cheever 
was  ultimately   obliged  with  great   reluctance   to  accept 
this   property,  either  in  payment   or   as  security   for  the 
debt.     It  is  a  striking  incident  in  the  history  of  its  pro 
gressive  value,  that  this  ore  bed,  now  almost  beyond  price 
in  the  hands  of  the  present  owners,  should  in  a  compara 
tively  recent  period,  have  been  urged  upon  the  market  by 
Cheever,  and  offered  at  scarcely  above  a  nominal  price  with 
out  a  purchaser,  and  ultimately  sold,  it  is  said,  at  five  thou 
sand  dollars.    This  sale  was  made  in  the  year  1838,  to  Horace 

1  Alexander  McKensie.        a  Hon.  John  A.  Lee. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  387 

Grey  of  Boston.  The  statement  of  the  amount  of  the  price 
paid  for  the  property  varies  from  two  thousand  five  hun 
dred  dollars  to  six  thousand  five  hundred  dollars.  I  have 
adopted  that  which  appears  to  be  the  most  authentic.  In 
1840,  Mr.  Grey  transferred  his  interest  to  the  Fort  Henry 
Iron  Company,  and  leased  from  them  in  1846,  the  furnace 
property  and  the  Cheever  ore  bed.  In  the  fall  of  1852, 
Mr.  Benjamin  T.  Reed  of  Boston  purchased  all  the  property 
of  the  Port  Henry  Iron  Company,  and  in  the  following 
year  transferred  the  ore  bed  to  the  Cheever  Ore  Bed  Com 
pany.1  Mr.  John  O.  Presbrey  is  the  present  resident  agent 
and  manager  of  the  mines.  The  bed  has  been  owned  and 
worked  since  1853,  by  that  company,  which  is  an  incor 
porated  organization  composed  of  gentlemen  of  affluence 
residing  in  Massachusetts.  It  is  situated  on  the  J.  Wil 
liams  tract,  formerly  called  the  Rogers  Ore  Bed  patent, 
about  three  miles  from  Port  Henry,  and  less  than  three 
fourths  of  a  mile  from  Lake  Champlain.  Since  the  occupa 
tion  by  the  present  proprietor,  the  mine  has  been  worked 
without  intermission,  and  yields  annually  from  fifty  thousand 
to  sixty  thousand  tons  of  ore.  A  large  per  centage  of  this 
ore  is  used  by  the  furnaces  of  the  Bay  State  Iron  Company 
at  Port  Henry.  The  remainder  is  exported  to  Massa 
chusetts,  Pennsylvania,  and  to  various  points  in  New  York 
and  other  sections  of  the  Union.  The  ore  is  found  in  a 
regular  vein  and  perfectly  developed,  from  five  to  fifteen 
feet  in  thickness.  The  vein  is  reached  by  five  different 
shafts  or  pits,  one  of  which  descends  vertically  to  the  depth 
of  three  hundred  and  fifteen  feet.  The  work  of  opening  has 
been  pursued  from  the  several  pits  and  shafts,  until  abreast 
work  of  nearly  one  thousand  and  five  hundred  feet  of  ore 
has  been  formed  and  is  now  worked.  From  the  foot  of 
the  perpendicular  shaft,  four  distinct  rail  tracks  have  been 
constructed,  which  enable  cars  to  transport  the  ore  a  dis 
tance  of  about  two  hundred  feet.  At  the  shaft,  the  ore  is 
tipped  into  iron  buckets,  capable  of  holding  about  a  ton 

1  Mr.  W.  T.  Foote,  and  W.  F.  Oookin. 


388  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

and  a  half  of  ore.  These  are  hoisted  to  the  surface,  where 
by  the  action  of  appropriate  machinery,  the  buckets  are 
discharged  into  cars  which  carry  it  by  a  rail  road  along  an 
inclined  plane  to  the  company's  wharf,  at  the  lake,  or  by 
the  same  machinery,  the  ore  may  be  deposited  on  a  plat 
form,  ready  to  be  conveyed  away  by  teams.  The  ore  is 
conveyed  on  the  rail  trains  in  the  pits  by  cars  from  the 
breast,  and  discharge  into  boxes,  which  are  hoisted  up  the 
slide  or  inclined  plane,  to  the  platform  above  from  which 
it  is  transported.  These  slides  require  ropes  seven  hun 
dred  feet  long  to  connect  with  the  drum  in  the  engine 
room.  Steam  is  the  motive  power,  created  by  three  sta 
tionary  engines,  for  all  the  movements  and  elevating  of  the 
cars,  buckets  and  boxes  with  ore  about  the  mine.  The 
rail  road,  which  conducts  the  cars  to  the  lake,  is  about  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  in  length.  From  the  wharf  it  is  shipped 
for  exportation.  This  ore  does  not  require  separating. 
No  stone  appears  in  it,  except  an  occasional  slight  cleavage 
from  the  wall  rock.  The  following  is  the  analysis  of  this 
ore  in  1856,  by  Prof.  A.  A.  Hayes : 

Proto  and  peroxide  of  iron,  90.54 

Phosphate  of  lime, 3.80 

Amphibole, 2.80 

Silicic  acid, 1-60 

Pilanferous  iron,  1-26 

100.00 

About  two  hundred  men  are  constantly  employed  in 
this  mine.  I  descended  the  perpendicular  shaft  in  an 
iron  bucket,  accompanied  by  Mr.  John  0.  Presbrey,  the 
courteous  agent  at  the  mine.  The  stopping  of  the  bucket 
at  the  foot  was  so  gentle  and  noiseless  that  I  was  scarcely 
aware  the  descent  of  more  than  three  hundred  feet  was 
ended.  A  strange,  wierd  and  thrilling  spectacle  was 
revealed.  There  was  no  noise  but  the  ceaseless  clink  of 
the  hammer,  and  the  jarring  of  the  machinery.  Along 
the  different  chambers  a  series  of  twinkling  lamps,  shin- 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  389 

ing  more  and  more  dimly,  as  the  long  lines  receded  in  the 
deep  darkness,  were  sufficient  to  reveal  the  low,  dark 
arched  roofs  supported  by  massive  and  glittering  doric 
columns.  These  columns  stand  about  one  hundred  feet 
apart,  and  average  sixteen  feet  square.  They  are  chiefly 
formed  of  solid  ore,  a  most  costly  material,  as  each  column 
contains  about  one  thousand  tons  of  ore.  At  the  remotest 
extremity  of  one  of  the  galleries  I  noticed  a  single  light 
moving,  and  inquired  the  cause.  It  was  a  lantern  carried 
by  one  in  pursuit  of  powder,  kept  in  that  retired  spot  in 
small  quantities  for  immediate  supply,  and  to  guard  against 
accidents.  With  every  precaution,  frequent  serious  cata- 
strophies  occur  in  blasting,  through  the  carelessness  or 
inadvertence  of  the  workmen.  Several  years  ago,  the 
pillars  of  ore  left  to  support  the  enormous  burthen  of  rock 
and  earth  above  a  chamber  previously  worked  yielded  to 
the  weight,  and  the  whole  mass  was  crushed  together. 
The  concussion  is  represented  to  have  been  not  unlike  an 
earthquake,  rending  the  earth  and  dislocating  the  massive 
rocks  for  acres.  I  was  struck  by  the  singular  freeness  of 
this  mine,  in  its  deepest  recesses,  from  dampness,  and  by 
noticing  the  pure  and  dry  atmosphere  which  pervades  it. 
In  summer  the  temperature  is  cool,  but  in  winter  the  cold 
is  severe  in  the  pits.  A  remarkable  and  unusual  effect 
was  produced,  when,  in  the  progress  of  the  work,  the  dif 
ferent  passages  were  connected.  A  strong  current  of  air, 
precipitated  down  one  pit  and  rushing  in  a  powerful  draft 
through  the  mine,  ascended  at  the  opposite  extremity  of 
the  bed  by  another  opening.  The  volume  of  air  was  so 
great,  that  it  became  necessary  to  erect  partitions  in  the 
mine,  to  protect  the  workmen  from  the  cold,  and  to  pre 
vent  the  extinguishing  of  the  lamps.  The  Cheever  mine 
was  one  of  the  first  opened  in  the  town  of  Moriah.  It  has 
occupied  and  will  probably  maintain  the  highest  rank  in 
respect  to  reputation  and  value,  both  by  the  quality  of  the 
ore  and  the  position  and  locality  of  the  bed. 

G-qff Bed  lies  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Cheever,  and  possesses 
a  great  similarity  of  ore.     It  is  situated  near  the  margin  of 


390  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

the  lake,  and  has  connected  with  it  a  wharf  and  separator 
This  bed  was  opened  in  1845,  and  was  formerly  owned  by 
Hon.  George  "W.  Goff,  but  three  or  four  years  since  was 
purchased  by  its  present  proprietors,  known  as  the  Champ- 
lain  Ore  and  Furnace  Company.  Besides  its  advantageous 
location  on  the  lake  shore,  this  mine  enjoys  another  great 
and  rare  facility  in  being  penetrated  by  nearly  horizontal 
openings.  It  has  three  of  these  openings,  one  of  which 
follows  the  vein  almost  eight  hundred  f.set.  A  mule  car  is 
employed  in  the  transportation  of  the  ore  from  the  mine. 
This  bed  is  not  at  present  worked,  but  when  in  operation 
it  yields  about  four  thousand  tons  of  ore  annually.  The 
ore  is  magnetic,  and  about  one-half  taken  from  the  mine 
requires  separating.  It  is  exported  to  various  markets. 
When  both  this  bed  and  the  furnace  at  Westport,  owned 
by  the  same  company,  are  in  operation,  they  give  employ 
ment  to  about  one  hundred  men.  This  is  esteemed  a  val 
uable  ore. 

Port  Henry  Ore  Bed  is  situated  in  a  ravine  between  two 
hills,  about  one  mile  west  of  Cheever  !<ed.  This  mine  IP 
owned  by  George  B.  Pease,  and  has  been  but  partially 
developed.  About  one  thousand  tout-  have  been  raised. 
Prof.  Hayes  has  made  the  following  analysis  : 

Metallic  Iron, 64.15 

Oxygen  with  it, 34.15 

Silica,   4.10 

Lime  and  Magnesia,  1.10 

Phosphate  of  lime, 6.20 

He  remarks,  "  the  ore  is  very  much  like  the  covering  ore 
of  the  Cheever  bed,  and  will  doubtless  as  it  comes  from  a 
deeper  point,  exclude  much  of  the  earthy  minerals  now 
found  with  it.  It  is  a  soft  ore,  working  easily." 

Cleveland  Mine,  formerly  known  as  the  Sherman  bed,  is 
located  near  the  above,  and  is  owned  by  a  company  in 
Cleveland,  Ohio.  It  has  been  worked  the  last  three  years 
with  an  annual  production  of  ore  from  eight  to  ten  thou 
sand  tons,  which  is  principally  conveyed  to  Cleveland  for 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  391 

puddling  purposes.  A  shaft  has  been  sunk  ahout  two 
hundred  feet.  Steam  is  used  as  the  motive  power,  in 
hoisting  the  ore  and  pumping  the  mine.  From  thirty  to  one 
hundred  men  are  employed  about  the  mine  and  in  connec 
tion  with  the  business.  Most  of  the  ore  requires  separating. 

About  six  miles  west  from  Port  Henry  and  upon  an  ele 
vation  of  nearly  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  lake  is 
situated  a  cluster  of  pits  and  shafts  which  open  into  seve 
ral  different  ore  beds ;  but  occupying  the  corners  of  several 
lots,  they  stand  within  a  space  embraced  by  an  area  of  five 
acres.  These  shafts  descend  into  a  deposit  of  ore,  that 
can  be  divided  by  no  visible  lines ;  but  beneath  the  surfac  e 
there  exists  a  uniform  and  unbroken  mass  of  ore.  The 
operations  in  several  of  these  pits  have  so  nearly  approached, 
that  the  sound  of  the  implements  in  one  may  be  distinctly 
heard  in  another.  "When  this  ore  was  first  worked,  it  was 
conjectured  that  it  formed  an  enormous  pocket ;  a  term 
used  by  miners,  to  designate  an  isolated  and  limited  body 
of  ore,  without  the  formation  of  a  vein  and  liable  to  sud 
den  exhaustion  ;  but  as  the  pits  descend  and  expand,  it  is 
asserted,  that  the  evidence  augments  of  the  presence  of  an 
inexhaustible  deposit.  The  opinion  seems  to  be  warranted, 
that  all  this  extended  eminence  has  been  formed  by  a  vast 
upheaval  of  iron  ore,  and  that  the  whole  formation  of  these 
hills  is  charged  with  the  mineral.  The  terrific  power  of 
the  agency  which  wrought  this  work,  is  indicated  by  the 
position  of  the  disturbed  and  dislocated  rocks  of  the  vici 
nity.  The  whole  district  is  barren,  broken  and  distorted. 
The  worthlessness  of  the  territory,  as  estimated  by  an 
ordinary  standard,  appears  from  the  fact,  that  most  of  this 
land  was  originally  sold  at  fifty  cents  the  acre. 

Indications  of  the  presence  of  iron  ore  in  Moriah  were 
revealed  at  an  early  period,  in  the  occupation  of  the  town. 
When  the  Kellogg  survey  was  made  in  1810  of  the 
territory,  appropriately  designated  the  Iron  Ore  tract, 
strong  attractions  disturbed  the  magnet,  and  particularly 
along  the  common  lines  between  lots  Nos.  21,  23,  24  and 
25.  No  openings  were  made  on  any  of  these  lots  until 


392  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

1824,  although  large  specimens  of  ore  had  been  found  ten 
years  before  on  lot  No.  25. 

The  Old  Sanford  Bed  is  situated  on  lot  No.  25,  of  the 
above  tract,  and  is  about  six  miles  from  the  wharves  at  the 
lake.  The  subject  of  ore  upon  this  lot  excited  some  degree 
of  attention  in  the  summer  of  1824.  Messrs.  Harry  Sher 
man  and  Elijah  Bishop  proposed  at  that  time  to  Mr.  D.  E. 
Sanford,  the  owner  of  No.  25,  to  become  associated  with 
him  in  exploring  the  lot,  and  that  each  should  pay  him 
one  hundred  dollars  for  an  undivided  one-fourth  interest 
in  the  property.  The  terms  were  accepted  and  operations 
were  immediately  commenced  by  the  parties,  near  the 
north-east  corner  of  the  lot,  and  ore  was  discovered  about 
one  foot  below  the  surface.  Other  places  within  a  few 
rods  were  explored  with  the  same  result.  A  few  rods 
south  of  the  first  opening,  a  large  boulder  of  iron,  as  it 
was  conjectured,  was  found  embedded  in  the  earth,  with 
many  smaller  pieces  strewn  upon  the  surface.  On  attempt 
ing  to  remove  this  supposed  boulder,  it  was  ascertained  to 
be  the  outcropping  of  a  vein,  or  the  index,  as  it  proved, 
to  an  enormous  body  of  ore.  It  was  followed  down,  the 
excavation  being  enlarged  about  a  rod  square.  The  ex 
plorers  still  believed  it  to  be  a  limited  deposit  of  ore,  but 
their  work  was  in  fact  the  opening  of  the  old  Sanford 
bed.  Ore  from  this  bed  was  tried  in  a  blast  furnace  at 
Port  Henry,  in  the  year  1834,  but  the  experiment  from 
injudicious  management  was  unsuccessful.  Two  years 
later,  Mr.  G.  W.  GoflF  used  at  the  same  furnace  some  of 
the  lean  ore,  which  had  been  thrown  out,  at  the  bed,  and 
was  purchased  by  him  at  fifty  cents  per  ton.  Mixed  with 
the  Cheever  and  other  ore,  it  produced  good  iron.  In  the 
spring  of  1846,  the  property  came  into  the  possession  of 
John  A.  Lee,  George  Sherman  and  Eliphalet  Hall.  Mr. 
Hall  sold  his  interest  the  same  year  to  Mr.  A.  J.  Rosseau 
of  Troy,  who  transferred  his  title  in  1849,  to  Messrs.  S.  H. 
&  J.  G.  Weatherbee.  When  I  first  examined  this  bed 
in  1852,  teams  were  driven  into  it,  down  a  slight  depres 
sion  of  the  ground,  and  loaded  directly  alongside  of  the 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  393 

breast  of  ore.  At  that  time,  the  length  of  one  of  the 
openings  was  two  hundred  and  fourteen  feet,  with  an 
average  width  of  thirty  feet.  The  breast  of  ore  worked 
was  about  eighty-two  feet.  The  ore  was  then  stratified, 
easily  drilled ;  a  single  blast  not  unfrequently  threw  off 
thirty  tons  of  pure  ore.  A  large  infusion  of  phosphate  of 
lime  was  at  that  time  disclosed  in  this  ore.  Another 
breast  was  worked  in  the  mine  that  exhibited  a  face  of 
ninety-nine  feet;  sixty  feet  in  length  and  an  average  depth 
of  twenty-five  feet.  This  bed  is  now  entered  by  three 
distinct  shafts.  One  of  these  requires  a  rope  five  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  long ;  another  a  rope  of  two  hundred  feet, 
and  the  third  opening  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  deep. 
The  ore  is  raised  by  cars  on  an  inclined  plane  of  about 
forty-five  degrees.  The  cars  are  hoisted  by  a  wire  cable, 
moved  by  the  agency  of  a  drum  and  steam  power,  to  a 
platform  at  the  mouth  of  the  shaft,  where  they  are  made 
to  discharge  themselves  by  a  simple  apparatus.  The  ore 
falls  upon  a  large  sieve,  which  separates  the  coarse  from 
the  finer  particles.  The  lumps  are  destined  for  puddling 
furnaces,  and  the  fine  for  other  purposes.  The  average 
yield  of  this  bed  during  the  last  six  years  has  been  forty- 
three  thousand  and  three  hundred  tons  of  ore.  It  is  used 
in  forges,  furnaces,  and  rolling  mills,  and  requires  no  sepa 
rating.  The  Sanford  ore  is  inclined  to  be  cold,  short,  and 
is  extensively  used  as  a  mixture  with  ores  of  an  opposite 
quality  to  render  them  neutral.1  We  descended  into  this 
mine  by  a  box  along  the  inclined  plane  escorted  by  the 
agent,  Mr.  Tifft.  The  depth  is  about  two  hundred  and 
thirty  feet.  The  area  worked  in  this  bed,  from  the  nature 
of  the  ore,  has  acquired  a  different  and  more  compact  form 
than  the  chamber  of  the  Cheever  bed.  The  distance  from 


1  Red  or  hot  short  iron,  is  ductile  when  cold,  but  extremely  brittle  when 
heated,  a  defect  caused  by  the  presence  of  a  small  quantity  of  sulphur. 
Cold  short  iron  is  ductile  when  hot,  but  brittle  when  cold  ;  caused  by  a 
small  quantity  of  phosphorus.  Neutral  iron  is  exempt  from  both  of  these 
defects. 


394  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

the  point  where  the  ore  passes  under  the  cap  rock,  to  the 
bottom  of  the  present  working,  about  thirty  degrees,  is 
three  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  and  the  length  of  the  bottom 
from  east  to  west  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  The 
shaft  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty-five  feet  deep  to  the 
ore.  Drifts  have  been  run  north  and  south  from  the  bot 
tom  of  the  shaft,  making  a  breast  of  one  hundred  and 
seventy-five  feet.  The  base  rock  has  not  yet  been  reached, 
and  the  thickness  of  the  breast  is  therefore  still  to  be  de 
termined.  The  Miller  pit  is  a  few  rods  north  of  the  old 
bed,  the  vein  dipping  at  forty-five  degrees.  The  depth 
from  the  light  hole  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet, 
length  of  breast  two  hundred  feet  and  height  about  forty 
feet.  The  roof  which  has  been  left  in  excavating  the  old 
bed  is  lofty,  and  supported  by  eleven  corresponding  pil 
lars,  averaging  fifty  feet  high  and  thirty  feet  square,  and 
computed  to  contain  already  one  hundred  thousand  tons 
of  ore.  Among  numerous  other  explanations  of  their 
processes,  Mr.  Tift't  described  the  methods  pursued  in 
working  the  mine.  Commencing  at  one  extremity,  a  pre 
scribed  depth  is  excavated,  which  is  preserved  to  the  other 
extremity  and  laterally  throughout  the  opening.  By  this 
system  a  nearly  level  surface  is  maintained,  and  the  size 
and  foundations  of  the  pillars  preserved.  My  attention 
was  directed  in  this  mine  to  the  working  of  a  diamond 
drill,  and  the  implement  with  its  operations  was  courte 
ously  exhibited  and  explained  to  me.  It  may  be  pro 
nounced  a  vast  improvement  in  economy,  efiiciency  and 
safety  to  the  usual  drilling  by  manual  labor.  The  instru 
ment  is  operated  either  by  hand  or  steam  power.  In  the 
process  I  witnessed,  two  men  turned  the  propelling  wheel, 
and  the  instrument  bored  into  the  hard  ore  with  great 
ease  and  incredible  rapidity.  From  two  hundred  and 
fifty  to  three  hundred  men,  including  teamsters,  are  em 
ployed  in  connection  with  this  bed.  Two  large  steam 
pumps  draw  oft'  the  water  from  the  two  deepest  pits.  I 
noticed  in  this  mine  the  same  singularly  low  temperature 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  395 

I   observed  in  the  Cheever  bed.     The  following    is  the 
analysis  of  this  ore : 

Metallic  iron,  72.09 

Insoluble  silicious  matter, .34 

Phosphorus, .01 

Oxygen  and  moisture, 27.56 

100.00 

Bed  on  No.  21.     In  the  year  1829,  parties  by  digging  a 
shaft  about  twelve  feet  deep,  discovered  ore  on  this  lot.     It 
was  then  owned  by  Jonas  Reed  and  Elias  Smith  of  Moriah, 
and  Allen  Smith  of  Addison,  Yt.,  who  had  purchased  it  of 
the  original  proprietors  for  a  merely  nominal  surn.     The 
latter  sold  his  one-half  interest  about  this  time  for  the  sum 
of  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  dollars,  and  Messrs.  San- 
ford,  Bishop  &  Sherman,  with  a  view  of  avoiding  compe 
tition,   acquired   a   title   to   a   majority   of   the   different 
interests,  and  paid  as  the  consideration  for  their  purchase, 
"  five  hundred  tons  of  old  bed  ore  in  the  ground."     No 
further  operations  occurred  at  this  bed,  until  the  year  1846, 
when  it  came  into  possession  of  Messrs.  Storrs  &  Rosseau. 
The  actual  and  practical  opening  of  the  mine  is  referred  to 
this  epoch.     The  entire  interest  in  the  property  had  pre 
viously  been  divided  into  small  fractional  shares.      Mr. 
Storrs  secured  a  preponderance  of  these  shares.     In  1846, 
the  parties  resumed  operations  in  the  shaft,  which  had  been 
opened  and  abandoned  more  than  twenty  years  before,  and 
after  sinking  it  about  thirty  feet,  reached  the  body  of  ore. 
In  1852,  a  judicious  observer  wrote  me,  in  reference  to  the 
bed  and  the  indications  of  ore  in  the  vicinity  :  "  It  would  be 
difficult  to  obtain  an  approximation  to  the  quantity  of  ore, 
in  this  single  deposit,  without  estimating  the  contents  of 
the  entire  hill."1     The  result  has  vindicated  the  accuracy 
of  this  judgment.     Messrs.   Storrs  &  Rosseau   succeeded 
in  raising  about  one  thousand  tons  of  ore,  and  in  1853 
conveyed  their  interest   to  the  American  Mineral  Com- 

1  /.  P.  Butler,  Esq. 


396  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

pany.  This  company  erected  extensive  separating  works 
for  the  purpose  of  extracting  the  phosphates  from  the 
ore,  while  separating  the  latter  for  market.  They  did  not 
succeed  in  procuring  the  phosphates  in  sufficient  purity 
for  agricultural  uses,  and  after  an  expenditure  of  several 
thousand  dollars  in  the  experiment,  the  scheme  was  relin 
quished.  The  company  was  at  the  same  time  engaged  in 
mining  the  ore  for  market.  This  association  passed 
through  various  changes. 

On  the  organization  of  the  Port  Henry  Iron  Company, 
that  company,  under  various  agents,  furnished  a  large 
amount  of  ore  for  market,  until  1864,  when  Weatherbees, 
Sherman  &  Co.,  having  purchased  personally  one-fourth  of 
the  capital  stock,  became  the  managing  and  selling  agents. 
This  position  they  still  occupy.  The  shaft  which  we  de 
scended,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Goff  the  superintendent,  is 
two  hundred  and  thirty  feet  in  depth.  The  track  upon 
which  the  ore  boxes  move,  is  supported  by  heavy  timbers, 
which  traverse  the  chasm.  Looking  down  from  the  box, 
in  which  one  is  slowly  gliding  in  the  descent,  into  the 
hideous  cavern,  where  the  lamps  are  flickering  far  below,  a 
spectacle  is  revealed,  grand  and  imposing,  but  calculated  to 
disturb  ordinary  nerves.  The  magnitude  of  this  deposit 
will  appear  from  the  fact  that  the  area  of  the  opening  is 
nearly  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  from  the  base  of 
the  slide  on  the  north  end,  to  the  first  pillar  on  the  south 
side,  and  about  one  hundred  feet  on  the  bottom  from  east 
to  west.  The  solid  ore  on  the  south  side,  is  vertically 
about  one  hundred  feet  high.  Drifts  have  been  driven  on 
the  north  side,  at  right  angles  under  the  rock  one  hun 
dred  feet.  Other  drifts  have  been  driven  east  and  west 
from  the  pillar.  The  length  of  the  opening  in  that  direc 
tion  is  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet.  Above  a  part  of 
the  opening,  the  superincumbent  rock  and  earth  have  been 
removed.  The  roof  is  high  and  apparently  formed  of  the 
cap  rock,  and  supported  chiefly  by  columns  of  the  same 
material.  An  average  of  thirty-six  thousand  tons  of  ore  is 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  397 

yielded  annually  by  this  bed.     The  annexed  is  an  analysis 
of  the  ore : 

Protoxide  of  iron, )      .                     ...    .         «Q  Q0\  2^-29 

Peroxide,   «     «            }  (?ieldlDS  metalhc  iron'  69'!  71.65 

Alumina,  40 

Oxide  of  titaneum, Trace 

Phosphate  of  lime, 

Magnesia,    -05 

Silica  and  insoluble  matter.    2.22 

100.00 

The  pay  roll,  embracing  this  mine  and  those  on  Nos.  23, 
and  24  comprises  from  two  hundred  and  fifty  to  three 
hundred  names. 

In  this,  as  in  every  mine  I  have  explored  in  Moriah,  I 
was  impressed  by  the  quiet,  discipline  and  regularity,  in 
which  its  vast  operations  were  conducted.  This  harmony 
and  subordination  conveys  a  most  favorable  idea  of  the 
judgment  and  efficiency  of  the  system  of  management 
that  prevails.  It  is  said  that  laborers  prefer  a  situation  in 
these  mines  to  toiling  on  a  farm  or  in  lumbering  occupa 
tions. 

Beds  on  Lois  23  and  24.  These  lots  are  contiguous  to 
Nos.  25  and  21  which  embrace  the  ore  beds  above  de 
scribed.  In  the  year  1824,  while  the  development  of  the 
mine  on  No.  25  was  in  progress,  Jeremiah  Cook,  the 
owner  of  No.  23,  began  an  exploration  on  his  side  of  the 
dividing  line  between  the  two  lots.  He  associated  with 
him,  Solomon  and  Hiram  Everest,  to  whom  he  sold  one- 
half  of  his  interest  for  two  hundred  dollars.  This  was  the 
earliest  opening  of  lot  No.  23.  After  effecting  this  opening, 
the  parties  commenced  disposing  of  interests  in  the  mine,  as 
minute  as  Tlg  and  possibly  ^2  on  a  valuation  of  four  thou 
sand  dollars  for  the  entire  bed.  Mr.  Rosseau,  the  partner 
of  Mr.  Storrs,  secured  a  majority  of  these  shares,  as  the 
latter  had  obtained  those  of  No.  21.  Old  pit  on  23  was 
opened  in  1823  and  Brinsmade  shaft  on  the  same  lot  in 
1865.  These  are  the  only  openings  upon  this  lot.  There 


398  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

is  one  shaft  on  "No.  24  which  was  opened  in  1845,  but  not 
extensively  worked  until  1864.  The  annual  yield  of  No. 
23  for  the  last  six  years  has  been  an  average  of  nine  thou 
sand  four  hundred  tons  of  ore,  and  that  of  No.  24  since 
1864  has  been  nine  thousand  seven  hundred  tons.  The 
ores  from  these  beds  are  used  in  forges,  furnaces  and  roll 
ing  mills.  I  have  seen  no  analysis  of  the  ore,  but  under 
stand  that  the  quality  of  No.  23  is  similar  to  that  from  the 
old  bed  on  No.  25  as  they  lie  in  direct  contact.  Old  pit 
on  23  is  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  deep.  Brinsmade 
shaft  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  deep  with  a  breadth 
one  hundred  and  seventy -five  feet  from  north  to  south. 
The  shaft  on  No.  24  is  two  hundred  and  thirty  feet.  A 
steam  engine  of  twenty-four  horse  power  is  used  at  these 
beds  for  raising  ore  and  running  a  pump  for  draining  the 
pits.  The  vein  on  23  grows  thicker  as  it  advances  south, 
and  it  is  conjectured  that  it  extends  to  No.  21,  a  distance 
of  six  hundred  feet. 

New  Bed.  The  deposit,  which  is  now  known  by  this 
name  was  discovered  by  E.  E.  Sanford  in  the  south-west 
corner  of  lot  No.  24,  in  the  year  1844,  and  was  opened  by 
him  the  following  season.  The  sale  already  mentioned  of 
the  Old  Bed  by  Mr.  Sandford  to  Sherman  &  Hall,  em 
braced  his  title  to  the  New  Bed.  Mr.  Hall  the  same  year 
(1846),  sold  his  interest  to  Mr.  A.  J.  Rosseau,  who  in  1849 
conveyed  the  same  interest  to  Messrs.  S.  H.  &  J.  G. 
Weatherbee.  The  bed  was  first  practically  worked  in 
1845,  and  has  produced,  during  the  last  six  years,  an  ave 
rage  of  six  thousand  seven  hundred  and  twenty  tons  of 
ore  annually.  The  ore  is  in  large  demand  for  forges  and 
blast  furnaces.  The  following  is  an  analysis  of  this  ore : 

Pure  metallic  Iron, 71. 

Insoluble  silicious  matter, 1.12 

Phosphorus, a  trace 

Oxygen  and  moisture,.  27.69 

About  one-third  of  this  ore  requires  separating.  It  is 
inclined  to  be  red  short  and  when  mixed  with  the  ore  of 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  399 

the  Old  Bed,  produces  a  neutral  iron  of  exceeding  tenacity. 
It  is  stated  that  the  demand  for  the  New  Bed  ore  is  larger 
than  can  he  supplied.     The  pure  ore  from  this  bed  is  pro 
nounced  by  those  interested,  to  be  the  richest  ore  known 
to  existin  this  country.    "  Perfectly  formed  crystals  weighing 
more  than  an  ounce,  are  often  found,  the  plane  surface  of 
which   resembles  burnished  steel,  rather  than  iron  ore." 
The  bed   contains  the  celebrated  shot   ore,  and  on  my 
former   examination  I  found  it  difficult  to  obtain  a  large 
specimen,  from  the  fact  that  it  disintegrated  by  the  touch. 
The  depth  of  this  bed,  measuring  along  the  slide  from  the 
light  hole  to  the  base  is  seven  hundred  feet  on  a  slope  of 
forty-five  degrees,  with  a  thickness  at  right  angles  with  the 
vein  varying  from  fifteen  to  thirty -five  feet.     A  seventy-five 
horse  power  engine  is  required  for  hoisting  the  ore  and 
pumping  the  water  from  the  bed.     This  mine  is  about  six 
and  a  half  miles  from  the  lake  and  possesses  the  same 
facilities  as  the  other  bed,  for  the  transportation  of  ore. 

A  separator  and  saw-mill  are  propelled  by  the  steam 
power,  which  hoists  the  ores.  At  the  saw-mill  all  the  lum 
ber  and  plank  are  produced,  which  are  required  for  the 
mines  and  plank  road.  From  fifty  to  seventy  men  are 
employed  about  the  mine  and  separator.1 

Barton  Bed.  This  mine  is  situated  on  Lot  No.  34,  Iron 
Ore  tract,  and  is  about  seven  miles  from  Port  Henry. 
It  was  opened  previous  to  1850,  and  was  formerly  owned 
by  Caleb  D.  Barton.  This  ore  has  been  highly  esteemed 
by  forge  holders.  In  1863  the  mine  was  purchased  by 
the  Port  Henry  Furnace  Company,  and  is  now  owned  by 
the  same  individuals,  under  the  corporate  name  of  the 
Bay  State  Iron  Company.  A  large  proportion  of  the  ore 
yielded  by  this  bed,  has  been  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
pig  iron.  About  eight  thousand  tons  of  ore  is  produced 
per  annum,  and  an  average  of  thirty-five  men,  including 

1  I  am  chiefly  indebted  to  the  zeal  and  public  spirit  of  Mr.  W.  F.  Gookin 
for  the  statistics  embraced  in  the  above  notices. 


400  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

teamsters,  are  employed  about  the  bed.     The  following  is 
the  analysis  of  the  Barton  ore  : 

Magnetic  oxide  of  iron,  51.418 

Oxide  magnesia, Trace 

Titanic  acid, 0.110 

Aluminium, 0.329 

Magnesia, 0.159 

Lime, 0.498 

Silicic  acid  (quartz,  with  a  very  little  horn 
blende), 47.433 

Phosphoric  acid, 0.050 

Sulphur, 0.003 

10.000 

Quantity  of  metallic  iron, 37.24 

Phosphoric, 

The  Barton  ore  is  used  by  the  Bay  State  Iron  Company 
furnace,  at  Port  Henry,  in  combination  with  the  Cheever 
ore,  and  in  about  equal  proportions.  The  ore  from  the 
Barton^bed  is  slightly  mixed  with  silex. 

Fisher  Hill  Bed.  This  mine  was  opened  at  an  early 
period  in  the  history  of  Moriah,  by  Fisher,  and  was  sold 
by  him  to  Eliphalet  Hall.  During  a  long  term  of  years, 
the  title  was  involved  in  a  remarkable  and  exciting  litiga 
tion,  which  was  ultimately  settled  by  a  compromise.  The 
mine  is  situated  about  seven  miles  from  the  lake.  It  was 
purchasedjby  its  present  proprietors,  an  eastern  company, 
in  the  year  1863,  at  seventy-five  thousand  dollars.  The 
ore  is  lean  and  silicious,  and  requires  separating,  but  is 
classed  among  the  best  ores  of  the  district,  and  is  in  great 
requisition  among  the  forges  of  the  vicinity.  It  finds 
market  also  with  the  iron  manufacturers  along  the  Hudson, 
and  in^various  other  localities. 

The  mine  has  three  shafts ;  two  of  which  are  now  worked. 
Shaft  designated  number  one,  has  a  descent  of  five  hun 
dred  and  fifty  feet,  and  number  three  has  a  descent  of  five 
hundred  feet.  The  latter  presents  a  breast  of  fifty  feet  and 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  401 

twenty-five  feet  in  height.  The  ore  is  said  to  become 
of  a  purer  quality  as  the  mine  is  developed,  and  is 
reputed  to  be  well  adapted  to  the  fabrication  of  wire  and 
steel.  Horse  power  is  used  in  raising  the  ore.  This  bed 
was  sold  to  the  present  proprietors  in  1863,  for  seventy-five 
thousand  dollars.  It  is  now  owned  by  eastern  capitalists. 
Mr.  0.  Hall  is  the  resident  manager. 

The  Cook,  or  M.  T.  Smith  Shaft.  The  revelation  of  this 
valuable  mine  was  a  striking  triumph  of  practical  science 
and  determined  perseverance,  that  has  few  parallels  in 
mining  operations.  The  bed  is  situated  on  lot  37,  Iron 
Ore  tract,  and  about  six  miles  from  Port  Henry.  The 
site  of  this  ultimate  great  success  was  an  open  range,  and 
the  particular  locality  a  sandy  knoll  in  a  pasture,  where 
not  the  slightest  appearance  was  disclosed  on  the  surface 
of  the  presence  of  ore,  although  its  existence  at  the  place 
had  been  long  suspected,  from  an  unusual  magnetic  attrac 
tion.  The  needle,  when  passed  along  an  area  of  about 
forty  rods  square,  was  drawn  as  much  as  possible  to  a 
vertical  position.  During  the  term  of  fifteen  years,  before 
the  enterprise  of  Mr.  M.  T.  Smith,  several  attempts  to 
reach  ore  on  the  lot  had  been  made  and  abandoned.  Mr. 
Smith  and  an  associate  finally  made  an  arrangement  with 
Patrick  Cook,  the  owner  of  the  lot,  to  open  the  mine. 
In  consideration  of  their  services  and  disbursements,  they 
were  to  receive  a  conveyance  of  two-thirds  of  the  property. 
They  commenced  their  labor,  and,  following  the  indications 
of  the  magnet,  excavated  a  shaft  ten  feet  square,  through 
a  hundred  feet  of  earth,  without  finding  any  additional 
evidences  of  ore.  Here  they  struck  hard  pan,  but  unde 
terred  by  these  adverse  results,  they  persisted  with  una 
bated  zeal.  At  length  they  reached  and  passed  through 
a  very  thin  vein  of  ore,  and  this  the  croakers  pronounced 
the  cause  of  the  attraction.  But  Mr.  Smith,  wisely  judg 
ing  the  deposit  too  small  to  have  produced  effects  so 
powerful,  and  with  unyielding  confidence  in  the  assurances 
of  the  needle,  continued  the  excavation,  and  after  pene 
trating  through  rock  and  hard  pan  eighty  feet  further,  he 
26 


402  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

revealed  a  fourteen  feet  vein  of  ore,  of  the  first  quality. 
The  mine  was  opened  in  June,  1866.  In  the  first  year  it 
produced  eight  thousand  tons,  and  in  1868  yielded  fourteen 
thousand  five  hundred  tons.  The  hreast  now  wrought  is 
two  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  averages  fifteen  feet  in 
width.  The  ore  is  exported  to  Troy,  Hudson,  Pittshurg, 
and  various  other  manufacturing  localities.  It  is  raised 
by  horse  power,  hut  the  water  is  pumped  out  by  steam. 
No  separating  of  the  ore  is  necessary.  The  mine  is  worked 
both  night  and  day,  and  requires  the  labor  of  thirty  or 
forty  persons.  The  future  of  this  bed  promises  results 
which  must  secure  an  ample  remuneration  to  the  skill  and 
energy  of  the  enterprising  explorers. 

The  impurities  which  affected  most  of  the  ores  of  Moriah 
were  chiefly   phosphates  and  white  flint;    but  all  these 
ores  have  become  purer  and  softer  as  descents  have  been 
made  in  the  mines.     The  first  separator  erected  in  the 
town  was  built  in  1842,  by  Eliphalet  Hall.     In  the  year 
1853  Lee   &  Sherman    consolidated  their  interests   with 
S.  H.  &  J.  G.  Weatherbee.     The  firm  of  Lee,  Sherman 
&  Weatherbees  continued  until  1862,  when  Mr.  Lee  re 
tired,  selling  his  title  to  Weatherbees,  Sherman  &  Co.,  who 
also  purchased  the  remaining  small  interest,  and  are  now 
the  sole  owners  of  the  old  and  new  beds.     Mr.  George  R. 
Sherman  is  a  member  of  this  firm.     The  Port  Henry  Iron 
Ore  Company,  consisting  of  the  above  firm,  and  Messrs. 
John  A.  Griswold   and   H.  Burden  &  Son  of  Troy  and 
Bech,  Tower  &  Brinsmade  of  Pokeepsie,  now  owns  the 
mines,  designated  Nos.    21,   23  and  24,  with  ore  rights 
on  the  west  end  of  lot  25.     The  ores  from  these  and  the 
adjacent  mines  have  been  transported  for  several  years  by 
a  plank  road,  extending  to  the  wharves  of  these  companies 
at  the  lake.     Immense  loads,  averaging  about  five  tons,  and 
sometimes  it  is  stated  reaching  nine  tons,  along  nearly  an 
uninterrupted  descent,  are  conveyed  by  this  medium.     The 
Lake  Champlain  and  Moriah  Kail  Road  Company,  formed 
of  the  above  companies,  is  now  constructing  a  railway 
along  the  same  route,  which  will  be  completed  in  the  sum- 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  403 

mer  of  1869.  It  will  supersede  the  plank  for  teaming, 
and  must  effect  a  great  economy  in  transportation  of  ore. 
This  railway  overcomes  an  ascent  of  fourteen  hundred  feet 
in  about  seven  miles,  on  the  extraordinary  grade  of  two 
hundred  feet  to  the  mile. 

A  cloud  seems  to  have  rested  upon  the  mines  of  Moriah 
for  some  period  after  their  discovery.  A  distrust  prevailed 
in  regard  to  the  character  of  the  ore,  and  it  required  the 
struggle  of  several  years  before  the  confidence  of  the  iron 
manufacturers  could  be  secured.  The  sales  of  ore  from 
these  mines  during  the  first  three  or  four  years  amounted 
to  scarcely  two  hundred  tons  annually,  and  then  decreased 
to  half  that  quantity.  The  aggregate  of  ore  which  had 
been  sold,  when  Lee,  Sherman  &  Hall  came  into  posses 
sion  of  their  interest,  was  about  six  thousand  tons,  at  prices 
ranging  from  fifty  cents  to  two  dollars  and  a  half,  at  the 
beds,  payable  in  barter  or  on  such  terms  as  the  purchaser 
proposed.  The  first  specific  trial  of  these  ores  was  made 
at  Ticouderoga,  with  a  load  sent  there  for  the  purpose. 
This  issue  was  favorable,  and  about  three  hundred  tons 
were  raised  the  same  year,  only  a  part  of  which  was  sold, 
but  the  next  year  an  increased  interest  in  the  ore  was 
manifested  by  a  more  animated  demand  for  it,  by  their  iron 
works  in  Vermont.  From  that  period,  the  sales  of  ore 
have  been  rapidly  progressive.  In  1847  Lee  &  Sherman 
effected  a  sale  of  twenty  thousand  tons  to  F.  H.  Jackson 
of  the  Sisco  furnace  at  Westport.  This  was  the  first  sale 
made  of  ore  to  be  used  in  furnaces.  About  the  same  time 
their  ores  were  introduced  in  furnaces  at  Troy  and  other 
points  on  the  Hudson.  The  mines  owned  by  this  firm 
produced  between  the  years  1846  and  1854,  about  fifty 
thousand  tons  of  ore.  A  competent  authority  estimates 
the  aggregate  of  ore  raised  from  the  mines  of  Moriah  from 
their  development  up  to  January  1st,  1869,  at  one  million 
and  one  hundred  thousand  tons,  of  which  one-third  has 
been  raised  during  the  last  six  years.  These  ores  are  used 
in  all  the  manufacturing  districts  of  New  England  and  the 
middle  states,  and  largely  at  the  west  and  south.  A  heavy 


404  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

supply  of  the  ore  is  constantly  maintained  at  the  depot  in 
Cleveland,  Ohio,  to  meet  the  demand  in  that  state  and 
Western  Pennsylvania.  The  ores  of  Moriah  are  all  mag 
netic  and  chiefly  cold  short,  and  are  in  request  to  combine 
with  the  red  short  ores  of  other  districts  to  form  a  neutral 
iron.  This  trade  is  steadily  increasing,  while  in  Moriah 
new  mines  are  constantly  developing.  The  product  of  the 
several  ore  beds  in  the  town  in  1868  is  as  follows : 

Tons. 

The  Cheever  bed, 68,000 

Mines  of  Port  Henry  Iron  Co., 59,000 

"  Weatherbees,  Sherman  and  Co., 59.500 

"  Lake  Champlain  Mining  Co.. 2,500 

M.  T.  Smith, '. 14,500 

"  Fisher  bed, 6?500 

230,000 

Most  of  these  companies  have  supplied  their  different 
openings  with  improved  hoisting  power.  The  Port  Henry 
Iron  Ore  Company  and  Weatherbees,  Sherman  &  Co., 
are  now  prepared,  if  the  demand  justifies  the  effort,  to 
raise  one  thousand  tons  daily  from  their  various  mines.1 
In  the  summer  of  1869,  a  fresh  activity  seems  to  animate 
the  business  of  Moriah.  A  fleet  of  vessels  assembled  about 
the  wharves  at  Cedar  Point,  loading  or  awaiting  their 
turns.  Fifteen  hundred  tons,  in  part  the  accumulation  of 
the  winter,  are  daily  shipped,  while  five  hundred  tons  are 
delivered  from  the  beds  by  teams.  In  the  above  aggregate 
of  two  hundred  and  thirty  thousand  tons  of  ore,  it  is  com 
puted  that  eighteen  thousand  tons  are  consumed  by  the 
works  in  Moriah,  leaving  two  hundred  and  twelve  thousand 
tons  for  exportation. 

Spear  and  Sutler  Bed.  In  a  former  work,  I  used  the  fol 
lowing  language  in  relation  to  this  mine.  This  bed  lies 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  lake.  The  ore  is  a  mag- 

1 1  owe  these  statistics  to  a  very  intelligent  paper,  supplied  by  W.  F. 
Gookin,  Esq. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  405 

netic  oxide,  impressed  with  a  hermatite  type.  The  vein 
has  been  traced  by  a  magnet  nearly  one-half  a  mile.  It 
has  been  opened  about  ten  rods  in  length,  and  about 
twenty  feet  in  depth,  presenting  a  breast  of  nine  feet, 
widening  as  it  descends.  This  ore  is  very  peculiar  and 
of  great  value  from  its  malleability  and  toughness.  It  is 
mixed  with  silex  and  carbonate  of  lime ;  requires  separat 
ing,  but  works  freely  and  reduces  rapidly  in  a  common 
force  fire.  The  bed  was  discovered  in  1848.  The  first 
analysis  of  the  ore  was  made  at  my  request  by  Professor 
Salisbury,  and  presents  the  following  results: 

Butler's 
Magnetic  ore. 

Peroxide  of  iron, 56.53 

Protoxide  of  iron, 28.49 

Silica, 13.81 

Alumina,  1.62 

Carbonate  of  lime, 

99.85 

Percentage  of  pure  iron  in  the  per  and  prot 
oxides, 61.202 

Percentage  of  oxygen  in  the  per  and  protox 
ides,  23.318 

I  learn  that  this  bed  has  never  been  worked,  but  remains 
in  the  same  condition  as  when  I  examined  it. 

THE  ELIZABETHTOWN  AND  WESTPORT  DISTRICT. 
The  territory  included  in  this  designation,  is  a  continu 
ation  of  the  same  mountainous  range,  which  embraces 
most  of  the  important  iron  mines  in  Moriah.  Similar  in  its 
general  characteristics,  it  is  identical  in  geological  forma 
tion,  and  it  seems  to  exhibit  a  prolongation  of  the  same  veins 
and  deposits.  A  large  number  of  mines  have  been  already 
discovered,  and  the  presence  of  iron  ore  in  almost  every 
section  of  the  district  is  disclosed  by  evidence  existing 
upon  the  surface,  and  the  unerring  indications  of  the  mag 
net.  Most  of  these  mines  have  been  but  partially  opened ; 


406  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

neither  have  such  indications  in  all  instances  been  effici 
ently  pursued.  Although  the  magnitude  of  the  deposits 
has  heen  confidently  asserted,  their  full  development  has 
been  impeded  by  unfavorable  circumstances.  These  beds 
are  generally  remote  from  the  facilities  of  commercial  in 
tercourse,  and  the  character  of  most  of  the  ores  for  practical 
purposes  is  yet  to  be  determined.  They  necessarily  have 
been  depressed  in  competition  with  mines  enjoying  every 
convenience  of  access,  and  with  ores,  whose  high  qualities 
have  been  established  by  long  experience  and  the  severest 
tests.  A  cautious  observer  remarks  in  reference  to  the 
ore  beds  of  this  district:  u  All  that  is  wanting  to  render  at 
least  nine  out  of  ten  of  these  beds  profitable  and  valua 
ble,  is  means  of  transportation  and  a  market."  I  have 
been  unable  to  collect  the  materials  necessary  to  a  just  and 
competent  account  of  the  mines  of  this  district,  and  am 
constrained  to  present  scarcely  more  than  a  bare  enumera 
tion  of  them.  For  the  limited  statistics  I  have  received,  I 
am  indebted  to  the  zeal  of  a  gentleman  who  possesses  no 
pecuniary  interest  in  the  property. 

ELIZABETHTOWN. 

Castaline  Bed  was  discovered  and  worked  to  some  ex 
tent  about  the  year  1800.  Considerable  quantities  of  ore 
were  transported  from  this  mine  to  Hinesburg,  Vermont, 
and  used  in  the  iron  works  at  that  place  at  an  early  day. 
The  bed  is  situated  on  land  owned  by  M.  J.  Post,  but  the 
heirs  of  W.  D.  and  H.  H.  Koss  are  proprietors  of  the  ore. 
The  following  is  an  analysis  of  the  Castaline  ore  : 

Black  oxide  of  iron,  .  95.04 

Silex  alumina, 3.12 

Lime  and  magnesia,   1.84 

100.00 

Ross  Bed  is  located  on  lot  No.  72,  Roaring  Branch  tract, 
and  about  one  mile  north-east  of  the  above.  It  was  dis 
covered  about  the  same  period,  and  is  very  similar  in  its 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  407 

qualities  to  the  Castaline.  'The  ore  has  been  partially 
worked  and  makes  good  iron.  The  declination  of  the 
vein  under  or  into  a  mountain,  prevents  at  present  an 
extensive  opening  of  the  bed.  The  land  belongs  to  Mr. 
Thomas  Doyle,  and  the  ore  to  the  heirs  of  the  Messrs.  Ross. 
The  following  is  an  analysis  of  the  ore  : 

Black  oxideof  iron, 87.64 

Silex  and  alumina,  9.80 

Lime  and  magnesia, 2.56 

100.00 

Nigger  Hill  Bed.  This  mine  was  discovered  between  the 
years  1825  and  1830,  and  slightly  opened  by  Frederick 
Hoag.  It  is  about  five  miles  south  of  the  Court  House  in 
Elizabethtown,  and  was  long  known  as  the  Hoag  bed. 
The  ore  was  used  at  the  Kingdom  forge,  by  Mr.  H.  R. 
Noble,  in  a  considerable  amount  for  several  years,  and 
was  esteemed  a  good  furnace  ore.  Mixed  with  the  old 
Sanford  bed  of  Moriah,  it  worked  successfully  in  a  forge. 
Portions  of  this  ore  work  admirably  alone.  This  ore  bed 
was  sold  in  1864,  by  the  heirs  of  Mr.  Noble,  for  $100,000, 
to  the  present  owners,  the  Lake  Champlain  Ore  and  Iron 
Company.  The  property  was  assessed  in  1868  on  the 
grand  list  at  $12,000.  This  mine  is  described  as  an  im 
mense  mass  of  magnetic  ore,  so  rich  that  it  does  not  require 
separating,  but  so  hard  that  it  has  to  be  roasted.1  The 
following  is  an  analysis  of  this  ore  : 

Black  oxide  of  iron, 89.36 

Silex  and  alumina,  6.96 

Lime  and  magnesia,  3.68 

100.00 

Wakefield  Bed  was  discovered  about  1845,  and  opened  by 
Col.  E.  F.  Williams.  The  title  of  the  land  is  in  Stephen 
Pitkin.  The  ore  is  owned  by  the  heirs  of  the  Messrs.  Eoss. 

1  W.  G.  Neilson's  report. 


408  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Little  Pond  Bed.  This  remarkable  deposit  was  found  about 
1840.  It  is  situated  on  lot  No.  199,  Iron  Ore  tract,  and  a 
half  mile  from  the  village  of  Elizabethtown.  It  was 
opened  by  E.  F.  Williams.  A  correspondent  remarks, 
"this  is  a  wonderful  mass  —  a  mountain  of  ore."  The 
title  to  this  property  has  been  repeatedly  changed,  and  is 
now  held  by  W.  J.  Averill,  of  Ogdensburg.  In  a  report 
on  the  survey  of  Essex  county  in  1852,  I  advanced  these 
views  in  reference  to  this  deposit :  The  Little  Pond  bed  is 
among  the  most  remarkable  formations  of  ore  in  this 
county,  and  from  the  quality  of  the  ore,  the  apparent 
magnitude  of  the  deposit,  and  its  favorable  position,  may 
be  classed  among  the  most  valuable  mines  of  the  region. 
This  bed  is  situated  about  six  miles  from  the  lake,  and 
near  a  plank  road.  It  apparently  forms  the  mass  of  an 
eminence,  probably  covering  at  the  base  an  area  of  forty 
acres,  and  elevated  nearly  two  hundred  feet.  The  exa 
minations  already  made,  which  are  corroborated  by  the 
general  appearance  and  indications  of  the  mound,  seem  to 
authorize  the  opinion,  that  this  entire  eminence  is  a  mass 
of  ore,  covered  only  by  an  incrustation  of  rock  and  earth 
of  a  few  feet  in  depth. 

If  further  developments  shall  establish  this  fact,  the 
quantity  of  the  ore  in  this  deposit  may  be  pronounced 
illimitable,  and  in  value  and  importance  almost  beyond 
computation.  The  subjoined  is  an  analysis  of  this  ore 
made  by  Dr.  Chilton  : 

.    Protoxide  of  iron  with  a  little  peroxide  of  iron,  40.27 

Silica, 4.11 

Alumina, -22 

Lime, , -83 

Magnesia, 3.43 

Water,  etc., 1.14 

100.00 

Judd  Bed  was  discovered  in  1845,  and  was  opened  to  some 
extent  between  that  year  and  1855,  by  David  Judd.     The 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  409 

present  proprietors  are  the  Kingdom  Company  of  Lake 
Champlain. 

Finney  Bed  was  discovered  in  1854  on  lot  139,  Iron  Ore 
tract,  and  was  opened  by  0.  Abel,  Jr.,  W.  W.  Root,  J.  E. 
Me  Vine  and  J.  H.  Sanders.  Several  hundred  tons  have 
been  raised  and  sold  from  this  bed.  It  melts  readily  and 
produces  superior  iron.  In  1865,  the  bed  was  sold  for  five 
thousand  dollars  to  the  present  owners,  the  Yulcan  Furnace 
Company. 

Gates  Bed  was  found  about  the  same  time  as  the  Finney 
bed,  and  upon  an  adjoining  lot.  It  is  supposed  to  be  a  con 
tinuation  of  the  same  vein,  which  may  be  distinctly  traced 
for  the  distance  of  more  than,  half  a  mile.  It  has  been 
partly  opened  by  Willis  Gates,  who  has  been  offered  and 
refused  ten  thousand  dollars  for  his  interest. 

Burt  Bed  was  discovered  in  1840.  It  is  located  in  the 
extreme  south-east  corner  of  Elizabethtown,  and  near  the 
Fisher  Hill  mine.  The  ore  is  very  similar  to  that  taken 
from  that  mine,  and  was  formerly  pronounced  by  an  expe 
rienced  manufacturer  to  be  the  best  forge  ore  in- the  county. 
The  vein  of  the  Burt  ore  dips  at  an  angle  of  forty -five 
degrees,  and  is  opened  by  a  slope  over  three  hundred  feet 
long.  The  area  excavated  at  the  bottom  was  in  1867  about 
eighty-five  feet,  with  a  breast  of  ore  of  about  fourteen  feet. 
The  ore  is  hoisted,  in  boxes,  which  slide  on  beams  laid 
along  the  slope,  or  by  horse  power.  There  are  several 
other  openings  on  the  same  lot,  which  exhibit  strong  indi 
cations  of  the  presence  of  valuable  veins.  The  Burt  ore 
has  been  successfully  used  both  at  the  Valley  and  Kingdom 
forges.  This  property  was  purchased  by  the  present  owners,, 
the  Essex  and  Lake  Champlain  Ore  and  Iron  Company,, 
in  1864,  at  thirty-five  thousand  dollars.  It  is  assessed  011 
the  grand  list  at  fifteen  thousand  dollars. 

Steel  Bed  is  situated  about  a  half  mile  south-east  of  the 
village  of  Elizabethtown  on  lot  'No.  189,  Iron  Ore  tract. 
The  bed  was  discovered  in  1810,  and  the  ore  worked  in 
local  forges  in  combination  with  other  ore  to  some  extent. 


410  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

After  the  destruction  of  these  forges  by  the  freshet  of  1830, 
the  bed  was  not  worked  for  many  years.  The  ore  was 
originally  considered  sulphurous,  but  Messrs.  Whallon  & 
Judd  in  1850,  successfully  consumed  a  considerable  quan 
tity,  which  had  been  raised  for  some  time  and  exposed  to 
the  action  of  the  elements.  Mr.  R.  Remington  in  1866, 
sunk  a  shaft,  and  obtained  ore  of  a  superior  quality,  and 
apparently  free  from  the  infusion  of  sulphur.  The  present 
proprietors  of  this  bed  are  the  Kingdom  Iron  Ore  Com 
pany  and  Mr.  Remington.  This  property  is  assessed  at 
one  thousand  dollars. 

Odell  Bed.  Two  openings  in  the  eastern  part  of  Eliza- 
bethtown  have  received  this  name.  Neither  have  been 
worked  to  any  extent,  but  they  are  esteemed  good  deposits 
of  ore.*  Mitchell  bed  is  on  lot  No.  116,  Iron  Ore  tract,  and 
was  discovered  about  1830.  It  was  partially  opened  by 
Eliab  Mitchell.  The  ore  is  very  similar  in  its  qualities  to 
the  ore  of  the  Burt  bed.  The  property  is  owned  by  the 
Essex  and  Lake  Champlain  Ore  and  Iron  Company. 

Buck  and  Noble  Beds.  These  beds  are  situated  upon  lots 
Nos.  109  and  110  Iron  Ore  tract,  and  near  the  boundary 
line  between  Elizabethtown  and  Moriah.  Lot  No.  109  is 
owned  by  the  heirs  of  Hiram  Buck,  and  No.  110  by  the 
heirs  of  Henry  R.  Noble.  The  deposit  was  discovered  in 
1865.  It  has  been  sufficiently  worked  to  disclose  the 
existence  of  a  great  body  of  ore,  with  the  most  promising 
evidences  of  superior  qualities.  The  ore  does  not  require 
separating,  but  pounding  in  the  machine  prepares  it  for  the 
forge.  The  bed  on  109  is  opened  about  forty  feet  in 
length  with  an  average  depth  of  about  twenty  feet. 

Thompson  Shaft.  On  lot  No.  48,  Iron  Ore  tract,  and  about 
eight  rods  from  the  M.  T.  Smith  shaft  on  lot  No.  47  in 
Moriah.  This  mine  has  been  recently  opened.  A  shaft 
has  been  sunk  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet,  and  about  twenty- 
five  tons  of  ore  are  raised  daily  by  horse  power.  The 
ore  is  similar  to  that  of  the  adjoining  Smith  shaft.  The 
bed  is  owned  by  W.  Thompson,  M.  T.  Smith  and  others. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  411 

On  lot  No.  127,  North  Eiver  Head  tract,  a  vein  was  dis 
covered  in  1854.  Partially  developed  it  presents  a  view 
of  about  ten  feet  in  thickness  of  ore  suitable  for  the  furnace. 

WESTPOKT. 

The  Campbell  Bed,  now  more  generally  designated  the 
Norway  Bed,  was  opened  between  the  years  1845  and 
1850,  and  lies  on  lots  Nos.  166  and  168,  Iron  Ore  tract. 
It  was  worked  by  Mr.  Henry  J.  Campbell  and  Whallon  & 
Judd,  in  1852  and  1853.  Several  hundred  tons  of  the  ore 
during  that  period  were  manufactured  by  Whallon  &  Judd. 
It  has  established  a  reputation  as  a  first  class  forge  ore, 
very  similar  in  its  qualities  to  the  Burt  and  Fisher  hill 
ores.  The  ore  is  lean.  The  strongest  indications  exist, 
that  this  mine  embraces  a  vast  deposit  of  superior  ore. 
The  proprietors  of  the  property  are  Hon.  A.  C.  Hand,  R. 
Eemington  arid  the  Kingdom  Iron  Company  of  Lake 
Champlain.  A  road  is  now  in  process  of  construction 
to  connect  the  Norway  Bed  with  Lake  Champlain  at  the 
village  of  Westport. 

The  Merriam  Bed  is  situated  on  lot  No.  165,  in  the  Iron 
Ore  tract,  about  five  miles  from  Westport.  It  was  opened 
by  Messrs.  W.  P.  &  P.  D.  Merriam  in  1867.  Two  other 
distinct  veins  are  disclosed  on  the  same  lot,  which  have 
not  been  developed  to  any  extent.  The  opening  which 
has  been  partially  worked,  exhibits  a  vein  of  five  feet  of 
very  pure  ore,  from  eighteen  to  twenty  feet  in  width.  One 
shaft  has  been  sunk  to  the  depth  of  twenty-five  feet.  This 
ore,  it  is  claimed,  yields  more  than  sixty  per  cent  of  sepa 
rated  ore.  It  is  neutral  in  its  qualities,  and  produces  in  a 
forge  good  iron.  It  has  been  successfully  used  in  the  forge 
of  the  owners,  since  the  bed  was  opened.  The  train  road 
of  the  Norway  Company,  will,  when  completed,  approach  to 
within  forty  rods  of  this  bed. 

Jackson's  Bed.  Some  years  since  a  bed  was  opened  in 
"Westport,  by  Mr.  F.  H.  Jackson  and  slightly  worked.  He 
used  the  ore  to  some  extent  in  the  Sisco  furnace  but  re 
cently  it  has  not  been  operated. 


412  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

ESSEX  AND  WlLLSBORO'. 

The  evidences  of  iron  ore  existing  in  both  of  these  towns 
are  copious,  but  no  large  beds  have  been  distinctly  revealed. 
A  deposit  is  now  being  opened  by  Messrs.  Nichols,  Lynde 
&  Ross,  about  four  miles  south  of  the  village  of  Essex 
and  near  Split  rock,  and  another,  about  a  mile  distant  from 
this,  known  as  the  Hill  bed,  by  an  Albany  company. 

Numerous  veins  of  iron  ore  have  been  found  in  Chester 
field,  Keene,  Jay,  St.  Armands  and  Wilmington.  The 
appearance  of  most  of  these  indicate,  that  when  fully  de 
veloped,  they  will  prove  extensive  and  valuable.  I  exa 
mined  in  North  Elba,  several  large  deposits,  apparently  of 
a  high  grade  of  ore.  These  were  strangely  overlooked, 
when  the  original  beds  owned  by  the  Elba  Company  were 
abandoned,  and  it  was  judged  necessary  to  export  the  raw 
material  from  the  Arnold  bed.  Beds  of  hematite  iron  ore 
are  found  in  the  various  sections  of  the  county.  Deposits 
of  iron  ore  pervade  almost  every  section  of  the  county,  and 
to  such  a  degree,  as  to  often  embarrass  the  operations  of 
the  surveyor,  in  the  use  of  ordinary  instruments.  I  have 
been  able  to  exhibit  a  mere  outline  of  the  incomputable 
wealth  embraced  in  the  iron  mines  of  the  region.  The 
past  history  and  progress  of  these  mines  sustain  the  con 
viction,  that  deposits  of  ore  remain  unrevealed  of  equal 
magnitude  and  of  as  high  properties  as  those  already  dis 
covered.  Those  known  to  exist  can  only  be  regarded  as 
the  types  and  harbingers  of  the  infinite  treasures  still  hid 
den  in  the  mountains,  and  beneath  the  soil  of  northern 
New  York.  These  vast  storehouses  of  private  and 
national  wealth  will  be  unlocked  when  the  demands  of 
business  and  facilities  of  intercourse  shall  stimulate  the 
application  of  enterprise  and  capital. 

The  Palmer  Bed.  This  mine,  remarkable  even  in  this 
region  for  its  magnitude  and  the  quality  of  the  ore,  lies 
in  the  town  of  Black  Brook,  Clinton  county,  on  Lot  No. 
15,  in  the  eighth  division  of  Livingstone's  patent,  and 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  413 

within  a  short  distance  of  the  Essex  county  line.     It  is 
situated  nearly  equidistant  between  the  works  of  Messrs. 
J.  &  J.  Rogers,  at  Black  Brook,  and  those  at  Au  Sable 
Forks,  and  about  three  miles  from  the  depot  of  the  White 
hall  and  Plattsburgh  rail  road.     Its  site  is  upon  a  bleak 
and  rocky  eminence,  that  reveals  no  evidence  of  the  vast 
wealth  it  embraces.     This  bed  was  discovered  by  Zepha- 
niah  Palmer,  near  the  year  1820,  both  from  indications  on 
the  surface,  and  the  attraction  of  the  magnet,  but  was  not 
efficiently  worked  until  1833.     For  a  period,  the  title  was 
disturbed  by  a  severe  legal  controversy ;  but  these  have 
long  since  been  adjusted,  and  the  unquestioned  ownership 
of  the  property  is  now  held  by  the  Messrs.  Rogers,  and 
the  Peru  Steel  and  Iron  Company;  five-eighths  belonging 
to  the  former,  and  the  balance  to  the  latter.     The  average 
yield  of  this  mine,  during  the  last  six  years,  has  exceeded 
twenty  thousand  tons  of  raw  ore  to  the  Messrs.  Rogers, 
and  from  twelve  thousand  to  fourteen  thousand  tons  to 
the   other  proprietors.      Nearly  the  whole  of  this  large 
aggregate  is  consumed  by  the  owners  of  the  bed  in  their 
own   works,   leaving    at   present   none   for    exportation. 
This  ore  has  been  used  principally  in  forges.     It  is  a  lean 
and  magnetic  ore,  and  almost  uniformly  requires  sepa 
rating. 

The  long  term  of  years  in  which  the  Palmer  bed  has 
been  worked,  has  produced  excavations  that  form  a  large 
area,  but  without  exhibiting  the  slightest  appearance  of 
exhaustion  in  the  affluent  material.  The  working  breasts 
of  ore  are  reached  by  a  number  of  distinct  shafts  or  pits  ; 
the  lowest  of  which  has  descended  to  a  depth  of  eight  hun 
dred  feet.  A  map  of  the  premises,  which  has  been  oblig 
ingly  furnished  me  by  Mr.  Graves,  exhibits  the  hill  as 
literally  honeycombed  by  these  various  openings.  The 
•ore  is  raised  from  these  pits  by  steam  power.  About  one 
hundred  and  fifty  laborers  are  employed  on  the  Rogers 
section  of  the  bed  alone.  I  refer  in  other  places  to  this 
interesting  locality,  its  labor  and  system  of  operations. 


414  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

PEAT. 

I  may  here  appropriately  notice  a  material  which  I 
confidently  believe  will  become  intimately  associated  with 
the  mineral  interest  of  the  district.  Amid  all  the  exu 
berant  bounties  of  nature  with  which  providence  has 
endowed  this  region,  one  has  been  withheld,  in  the  want 
of  coal,  that  causes  a  serious  impediment  to  its  industrial 
progress  and  prosperity.  It  is  believed  that  an  article 
which  prevails  in  every  section  in  great  profusion  may 
measurably  supply  this  deficiency,  and  it  is  gratifying  to 
know  that  the  attention  of  prominent  manufacturers  is 
directed  to  the  subject  of  using  it  for  fuel,  in  their  work 
shops  as  well  as  for  domestic  consumption.  The  supply 
of  peat  is  particularly  copious  in  northern  New  York, 
and  is  everywhere  accessible.  I  have  examined  numerous 
deposits  in  the  county  of  Essex,  and  the  amount  may  be 
pronounced  literally  inexhaustible.  I  can  only  refer  to 
one  bed  in  Elizabethtown,  on  the  premises  of  Hon.  A.  C. 
Hand,  as  a  type  of  the  whole.  This  deposit  spreads  over 
several  acres.  A  pole  was  thrust  through  the  peat  a  length 
of  more  than  twenty  feet  below  the  surface,  without  reach 
ing  the  hard  pan  beneath.  By  an  analysis  I  caused  to  be 
made  of  peat  from  the  county,  it  was  found  to  contain 
more  than  ninety-three  per  cent  of  organic  matter,  com 
posed  of  resinous  substances,  vegetable  fibres  and  other 
combustible  material.  If  art  and  science  can  devise  any 
process,  by  which  this  substance,  with  the  requisite  eco 
nomy,  may  be  prepared  for  practical  use,  an  infinite  boon 
will  be  presented  to  the  country.  In  Austria,  and  various 
departments  of  Germany,  and  in  Sweden,  peat  is  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  iron.  Even  in  Great  Britain,  arid  in  com 
petition  with  the  rich  coal  mines  of  that  country  it  is  being 
introduced  for  that  purpose.  It  is  used  in  Belgium,  I  am 
informed  by  a  most  intelligent  authority,  in  the  manu 
facture  of  the  more  delicate  iron  fabrics.1  In  some  classes 

1Hon.  T.  G.Ahord. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  415 

of  puddling  furnaces  peat  has  been  consumed  for  a  fourth 
of  a  century.  On  the  Grand  Trunk  rail  road  in  Canada, 
which  traverses  vast  forest  tracts  belonging  to  the  company, 
where  wood  may  be  procured  at  merely  the  cost  of  chop 
ping  by  cheap  labor,  peat  for  the  last  year  has  been 
appropriated  for  fuel  in  their  engines.  It  is  asserted  by  an 
authentic  source,  that  it  has  been  thus  exclusively  used  and 
by  its  utilization  has  effected  a  saving  of  ten  thousand 
pounds  to  the  road.1 

GRAPHITES. 

This   mineral,   more    generally   known   as   plumbago, 
or  black  lead,  seems  to  pervade  Essex  county  by  almost 
as  universal  a  presence  as  iron  ore.     I  found  pure  and 
choice   specimens   in    Chesterfield,   Jay,   Newcomb   and 
other  towns.     A  correspondent  states,  that  "  Plumbago 
exists  in  large  quantities   in  Minerva."2    I   am  also   in 
formed,  that  a  mine  is  about  being  opened  on  Willsboro' 
mountain.3    I  examined   a  deposit  of  graphite,  in   which 
considerable  excavation  had  recently  been  made,  on  the 
furnace  property  at  Port  Henry.     The  mineral  here  occurs 
in  neither  a  mass  nor  vein,  but  is  incorporated  by  minute 
particles  in  the  soil,  and  is  easily  detected  by  its  glittering 
appearance.     The  earth  yields  on    separating  about  one- 
seventh  part  of  the  mineral.     I  also  noticed  large  leaves 
of  very  pure  asbestos  cleaving  to  the  fragments  of  rock, 
thrown  out  in  this  excavation.     Ticonderoga,  however,  is 
the  scene  of  an  extraordinary  development  of  the  graphite. 
Much  romantic  legend  invests  the  discovery  of  this  deposit. 
Whether  the  slipping  of  an  animal  on  the  wet  moss  re 
vealed  the   lustrous  treasure;    or   the    uncertain    sound, 
returned  from  the  blow  of  an  axe ,  or  accident,  or  careful 
research,  as  is  asserted  by  different  traditions,   is  less  im 
portant  than  the  fact,  that  about  the  year  1815,  this  im 
mense  mass  of  graphite  became  known.    The  circumstance 
that  an  Indian  arrow  was  found  in  an  old  opening  in  the  vein, 

1  T.  B.  Hyde's  letter.        2  E.  P.  Williams.        3  John  Ross. 


416  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

which  was  several  feet  in  length,  renders  the  supposition  pro  - 
bable,  that  it  was  known  and  worked  by  the  aborigines,  at 
an  early  period.  The  graphite  mine  appears  to  constitute 
the  principal  formation  of  an  eminence,  now  known  as 
Lead  mountain,  in  the  north-west  part  of  Ticonderoga. 
It  is  disclosed  in  seams  throughout  the  vicinity,  and  is 
probably  injected  into  the  whole  ridge  that  extends  into 
Schroon.  I  examined  two  openings,  near  the  works  of 
Messrs.  Tread  way  in  that  town,  which  afforded  very  de 
cided  indications  of  the  graphite  in  large  deposits  and  of 
an  excellent  quality.  Immediately  after  the  discovery, 
the  different  veins  which  had  been  disclosed  were  worked 
in  a  rude  manner  by  several  claimants,  but  were  subse 
quently  opened  with  more  system  by  William  A.  G. 
Arthur  and  C.  P.  Ives.  The  whole  interest  has  been  pur 
chased  and  is  now  worked  with  great  energy  and  success, 
by  the  American  Graphite  Company.  In  site,  this  mine 
ral,  gleaming  like  an  infinitude  of  diamonds, is  exquisitely 
beautiful.  At  Ticonderoga  it  is  found  in  veins,  usually 
from  eight  inches  to  a  foot  in  thickness.  Some  of  the 
chambers  have  been  opened  between  one  hundred  and 
two  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  from  seventy  to  eighty 
feet  in  depth.  Three  hundred  pounds  of  pure  ore  have 
been  raised  in  one  hour  from  a  single  vein.  The  Graph 
ite  Company  employ  about  forty  laborers  in  their  mines 
and  raise  and  manufacture  five  hundred  tons  of  the  mine 
ral  annually.  The  walls  of  this  mine  are  quartz  or  trap 
rock.  Enormous  specimens  of  the  graphite  of  great  beauty 
and  purity  are  excavated.  Nearly  a  total  freeness  from 
lime,  supposed  to  exist  in  a  portion  of  the  mineral  in  these 
veins,  render  it  of  the  greatest  value  in  the  construction, 
of  crucibles. 

GALENA. 

I  have  most  assiduously  searched  for  traces  of  galena, 
with  a  strong  impression  of  its  existence  within  the 
limits  of  the  county.  The  coincidence  of  several  circum 
stances  has  formed  this  conviction.  It  is  found  in  light 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  417 

veins  in  the  fissures  of  the  rocks  of  several  localities.  A 
map  procured  in  London  in  1784,  which  exhibited  an 
exact  and  minute  designation  of  the  headlands  and  islands, 
of  the  soundings  and  the  position  of  each  rock  and  reef  of 
Lake  Champlairi,  derived  from  the  accurate  surveys  of  the 
French  and  English  engineers,  strengthens  this  opinion.1 
Upon  this  map  thus  maturely  and  carefully  arranged,  a 
point  is  designated  in  the  mountain  range  between  Ches 
terfield  and  Willsboro',  as  the  Lead  ore  bed.  A  tradition  of 
this  ore  bed  is  known  to  exist  among  the  savage  tribes 
north  of  the  great  lakes.  A  little  flotilla  of  canoes,  bear 
ing  Indians  from  that  region,  as  they  represent,  appear 
yearly  about  the  middle  of  autumn,  lying  on  the  beach  in 
the  vicinity  of  those  mountains.  Lingering  here  for  seve 
ral  days,  with  no  ostensible  pursuit,  they  as  suddenly  disap 
pear.  I  cannot  resist  the  popular  opinion  that  these 
periodical  visits  have  some  connection  with  the  legend  and 
the  existence  of  this  ore  bed.  Other  circumstances  tend  to 
fortify  this  impression.  Accounts  which  have  been  re 
tained  in  several  families,  descended  from  the  early  settlers 
of  the  county,  ancestors  of  which  were  carried  prisoners 
into  Canada  during  the  revolution,  combine  to  corroborate 
the  following  facts.  The  Indians,  who  usually  were  their 
conductors,  were  in  the  habit  of  uniformly  landing  near 
these  mountains  (which  are  the  last  northern  spurs  of  the 
Adirondacs,  and  here  fall  precipitately  into  the  lake),  and 
while  a  part  remained  to  guard  the  prisoners,  others 
proceeded  into  the  interior,  and  after  an  absence  of 
a  few  hours,  returned  to  the  canoes  laded  with  lead  ore 
of  the  richest  quality.  These  traditions  are  all  harmonious 
as  to  the  incident,  the  locality,  and  the  time  employed  by 
the  Indians  procuring  their  lead.  Several  barrels  of  crude 

1  This  map  was  brought  from  England  by  Elkanah  Watson,  and  was 
loaned  by  him  to  a  state  department  at  Albany.  All  trace  has  since  been  lost 
of  it.  It  was  a  most  important  and  interesting  document,  and  believed  to 
contain  the  only  minute  chart  of  Lake  Champlain  extant.  The  steamer 
Francis  Saltus  was  wrecked  in  1852,  upon  a  slight  needle  rock  laid  down 
on  this  chart,  but  unknown  to  many  of  the  navigators  of  the  lake. 
27 


418  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

lead  ore,  which  had  been  collected  in  the  same  locality,  we 
dispatched  from  "Willsboro'  last  autumn,  for  the  purpose 
of  being  examined  and  assayed.1 

COPPER. 

This  metal  has  been  found  many  feet  below  the  surface 
in  the  Phosphate  mine  and  at  another  locality  in  Crown 
Point.  Specimens  which  I  have  analyzed  exhibit  the  fol 
lowing  very  favorable  results.  No.  86  was  from  the  Phos 
phate  mine  and  68  from  the  other  site. 

No.  68.  No.  86. 

Copper 44.50  46.70 

Iron,  31.30  10.45 

Sulphur,  30.20 

Carbonic  Acid, 23.10 

Silica,  3.70  19.85 

99.70        99.85 

No.  68  is  copper  pyrites  containing  iron  as  it  usually 
does.  This  is  sufficiently  rich  in  copper  to  make  it  valua 
ble  if  found  in  any  considerable  quantity.  The  greater 
part  of  the  copper  of  commerce  comes  from  this  kind  of 
ore.  No.  86  is  a  carbonate  of  copper,  and  will  be  very 
valuable  if  found  in  adequate  quantities.  In  reference  to 
the  deposit  in  Crown  Point,  one  of  the  enterprising  pro 
prietors  wrote  me  some  years  since,  "our  company  ex 
pended  about  three  hundred  dollars  last  season  in  sinking 
a  shaft  upon  the  copper  locality,  and  found  more  or  less 
all  the  way,  as  far  as  they  descended,  but  no  regular  lode. 
Some  of  the  specimens  we  procured  were  very  rich  and 
beautiful,  and  I  have  no  doubt  but  a  rich  lode  of  copper 
would  be  found  by  sinking  deep.  The  iron  business, 
however,  now  pays  too  well  to  run  much  risk  on  copper." 
The  subject  still  slumbers  in  the  same  position.2 

1A.  D.  Barber.        2  C.  F.  Hammond,  Esq. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  419 

SILVER. 

An  intelligent  resident  of  North  Elba  in  communicat 
ing  a  valuable  description  of  that  town,  refers  to  a  sin 
gular  and  apparently  well  authenticated  account  of  the 
accidental  discovery  of  a  vein  of  silver  ore  among  the 
Adirondacs  and  the  loss  of  its  trace.  He  adduces  strong 
evidence  of  the  fact,  and  that  pure  silver  was  produced 
from  the  ore. 

The  geological  formation  along  the  shore  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain  presents  an  unique  and  remarkable  alternation  of 
the  primitive  with  the  higher  structures.  The  former  in  a 
general  inclination  recedes  from  the  lake,  but  incidentally 
dislocates  the  formation  of  the  latter  by  projecting  between 
them,  veins  and  ledges  in  lateral  spurs.  At  Ticonderoga, 
a  range  of  sandstone  and  limestone  rock  supervenes. 
Proceeding  northward,  we  meet  at  Crown  Point,  a  ledge 
of  regular  granite  and  veins  of  gneiss  succeeded  by  lime 
stone  containing  fossil  remains  and  mingled  with  the 
black  marble.  At  Port  Henry  is  exhibited  a  remarkable 
and  scarcely  defined  and  promiscuous  mingling  of  various 
strata  of  rocks  and  minerals.  Serpentine,  mica  in  large 
and  beautiful  masses,  gneissoid  granite,  primitive  limestone, 
are  conspicuous.  The  pure  white  of  the  granular  lime 
stone,  spotted  by  the  sparkling  black  specks  of  plumbago, 
form  most  beautiful  cabinet  specimens.  In  Keene,  I 
found  specimens  more  rare  and  exquisitely  beautiful  of 
this  limestone,  dotted  by  bright  green  crystals  of  sahlite. 
Verd  antique  occurs  in  large  veins  at  Port  Henry,  and  is 
an  exceeding  rich  and  brilliant  material.  An  observant 
gentleman  of  that  place  affirmed  that  a  fossiliferous  lime  • 
stone  rock,  presenting  a  perfect  stratification,  might  be 
seen  at  low  water  on  the  margin  of  the  lake,  forming  a 
substratum  to  these  primitive  rocks. 

The  granular  limestone  which  crops  out  at  Port  Henry, 
appears  in  Ticonderoga,  near  Lake  George,  and  prevails 
extensively  in  Schroon  and  Minerva.  I  found  but  one 
manifestation  of  the  rock  in  North  Elba,  upon  the  farm  of 


420  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Mr.  Hinckley,  where  it  develops  in  a  ledge,  upon  a  side 
hill.  It  appears  usually  combined  with  sulphates,  phos 
phates,  or  other  foreign  substances.  The  hyperstene  rock 
projects  from  the  mountains  in  Westport,  and,  incidentally 
traversed  by  limestone,  predominates.  The  primitive 
rocks  prevail  in  the  southern  section  of  the  town  of  Essex. 
Here  occurs  that  very  extraordinary  exhibition  of  porphyry 
so  elaborately  discussed  in  the  report  of  Professor  Emmons. 
This  rock,  extending  over  the  surface  upon  several  acres, 
is  peculiarly  beautiful  in  its  color,  structure,  and  singular 
dentritic  formation.  It  affords  perfect  demonstration  of  an 
igneous  agency,  most  potent  and  terrific,  that  rent  asunder 
the  earth,  fused  and  ejected  this  vast  rock.  The  extreme 
hardness  of  the  porphyry  is  a  marked  characteristic. 
Struck  with  the  steel  hammer,  it  evolves  a  brilliant  corrus- 
cation  of  light  and  sparks.  My  attention  was  directed  to 
another  remarkable  exhibition  of  porphyry,  upon  the  pre 
mises  of  Mr.  Clark,  on  Willsboro'  point.  This  vein,  about 
a  foot  wide,  is  interjected  in  a  seam  of  blue  limestone,  and 
the  rock  has  been  evidently  dismembered  in  the  process. 
Scarcely  a  fragment  of  the  disrupted  limestone  remains, 
near  the  porphyry  vein.  Various  fossils  occur  in  this  rock, 
and  also  in  the  slate  or  shale  which  lies  contiguous.  Many 
of  these  remains  are  of  great  size,  and  in  unusual  preserv 
ation.  A  few  years  since,  a  single  fossil  of  a  reptile  was 
exhumed  by  Mr.  Clark,  measuring  two  feet  in  length,  and 
so  perfect  in  its  preservation,  that  the  form  of  the  minute 
scales  could  be  distinguished.  At  Mount  Trembleau,  as 
in  Willsboro',  Westport  and  Moriah,  the  hyperstene  rock 
plunges  into  the  lake  in  a  bold,  ragged,  and  perpendicular 
wall.  A  very  peculiar  and  large  deposit  of  stalagmite 
lies  upon  the  north  bank  of  the  Boquet,  near,  but  not  sub 
jacent  apparently,  to  a  mass  of  limestone.  Several  veins 
of  kaolin  develop  at  Mount  Trembleau,  upon  the  lake 
shore,  beneath  the  hyperstene.  A  large  deposit  exists  near 
Auger  pond  in  Chesterfield.  Similar  masses  occur  in 
other  sections  of  the  county.  A  specimen  from  Putnam's 
pond,  in  Schroon,  was  subjected  to  analysis,  many  years 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  421 

since,  by  Professor  Eaton,1  and  pronounced  by  him  emi 
nently  pure  and  exempt  from  injurious  combinations. 
Limestone,  and  very  clear  quartz  rock,  supposed  to  be 
adapted  to  the  glass  manufacture,  and  beds  of  clay,  of 
great  purity,  occur  in  St.  Armands.2  A  bed  of  feldspar  is 
also  situated  on  lot  No.  31,  Pliny  Moore  patent,  in  Crown 
Point,  is  owned  by  Messrs.  S.  S.  &  A.  V.  Spalding.  I  am 
informed  that  it  has  been  tested  in  pottery  works  at  Ben- 
nington  and  at  Troy,  and  more  recently  in  New  York  with 
success,  and  that  it  produces  a  beautiful  ware.  The  deposit 
is  represented  to  be  inexhaustible. 

A  long  and  attractive  list  of  rare  and  beautiful  minerals 
might  be  exhibited,  which  are  incorporated  with  the  rocks 
of  Essex  county,  or  imbedded  in  its  earth.  Particular 
localities  are  peculiarly  rich  in  these  deposits.  The  crest 
of  a  hill  upon  the  premises  of  Col.  Calkins,  near  Lake 
George,  affords  a  choice  field  for  the  researches  of  the 
scientific  explorer.  The  avalanches,  at  Long  pond,  in 
Keene,  present  a  site  still  more  lavishly  supplied  with 
brilliant  gems  and  minerals.3  Augite,  garnet,  zircon,  sah- 
lite,  sphene,  coccolite,  adularia,  rose  colored  quartz  spar, 
epidote,  clorite,  jasper,  cornelian,  are  among  the  minerals 
yielded  by  these  remarkable  deposits.  Veins  of  colopho- 
nite  occur  in  Lewis,  Chesterfield  and  Willsboro'.  This 
exceedingly  splendid  and  beautiful  mineral  is  found  in  vast 
conglomerates,  refulgent  in  the  colors  and  lustre  of  innu 
merable  gems. 

1  Mr.  Treadway.        2  Elias  Goodspeed,  Esq. 

8 1  have  been  favored  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Pattee  with  a  more  particular  and 
highly  interesting  description  of  the  latter  locality.  It  is  situated  near 
Edmond's  pond,  at  a  precipice  laid  bare  by  an  avalanche  in  1830.  In  the 
bed  of  a  little  brook,  which  leaps  down  the  slide,  innumerable  minerals 
sparkle,  and  are  strewn  about  the  vicinity  in  every  direction.  High  up  the 
precipice,  a  series  of  caves  occur,  which  are  the  peculiar  deposits  of  the 
gems  and  minerals,  and  almost  rival  in  beauty  and  variety,  the  caverns  of 
eastern  story.  "  Here  are  found  large  boulders,  and  even  ledges  of  calcareous 
spar,  blue,  white,  and  sometimes  beautifully  variegated  by  crystals  of  epi 
dote,  coccolite,  and  hornblende.  They  are  occasionally  found  in  stalactitic 
and  crystaline  forms,  but  more  generally  in  amorphous  masses."  The  basalt 
is  chiefly  found  in  veins  and  dykes." 


422  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

NATIVE  COPPERAS. 

A  singular  formation  of  natural  copperas  exists  imme 
diately  below  the  Wilmington  Notch,  on  the  bank  of  the 
Au  Sable  river.  The  impregnated  water,  oozing  from 
the  earth,  forms  a  thick  concretion  upon  the  rock,  which 
may  be  removed  in  large  quantities.  It  is  adapted,  in  its 
crude  state,  to  all  the  usual  purposes  of  the  artificial  sul 
phate  of  iron. 

THE  BEACHES. 

The  naked  and  barren  beaches  along  the  shores  of  the 
lake  occasionally  furnish  elements  of  business,  which 
are  profitably  used.  The  detritus  of  iron  formed  by 
the  attrition  of  the  water  and  fragments  of  rock  from  the 
ore,  which  is  known  by  the  circumstance  to  exist  on  the 
bottom  of  the  lake,  is  thrown  up  in  several  localities,  in 
thick  deposits.  This  substance  is  nearly  pure  iron,  and 
gathered  with  care  formerly  supplied  a  large  demand  by 
the  stationers.  Subsequently  it  has  been  employed  in  the 
manufacture  of  malt  and  for  other  purposes.  In  some 
seasons  it  has  been  a  heavy  article  of  exportation.  A  New 
York  company  has  recently  secured  extensive  rights,  with 
the  view  of  erecting  works,  designed  to  adapt  this  "  iron 
sand  "  for  use  in  some  mechanical  arts. 

Gravel  thrown  up  by  the  waters  of  the  lake  and  collected 
on  the  beaches,  is  exported  in  large  quantities  to  Montreal, 
by  the  Sorel,  the  Chambly  canal  and  St.  Lawrence,  and 
is  extensively  consumed  in  that  city,  for  both  useful  and 
ornamental  purposes. 

WATER  CEMENT. 

A  vein  of  water  cement  in  the  town  of  Willsboro', 
of  a  very  superior  quality,  has  been  used  for  practical 
purposes  for  many  years,  and  is  apparently  of  great 
extent.  Other  deposits  of  this  material  occur  in  various 
parts  of  the  county.  I  noticed  one  of  particular  promise 
on  the  farm  of  Harris  Page  in  Chesterfield. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  423 

A  large  ledge  of  limestone  believed  to  be  a  water 
cement,  occurs  in  Crown  Point. 

PAINTS. 

Paint  exists  in  different  sections  of  the  county,  in 
numerous  deposits  and  various  colors.  It  is  generally 
disintegrated  and  pulverized,  and  is  used  in  its  crude  state 
for  ordinary  painting.  "When  prepared  by  artificial  re 
finement,  it  is  believed  these  minerals  will  be  made  use 
ful  for  practical  purposes.  An  ore  occurs  in  Ticonderoga, 
of  a  rocky  consistence,  which  presents  a  bright  rich  ver- 
million  surface,  and  is  supposed  will  yield  an  important 
paint. 

DRIFT  AND  DILUVIAL  FORMATION. 

Whilst  strong  and  indubitable  evidences  prevail  through 
out  the  county  of  Essex  that  an  igneous  power  constituted 
the  stupendous  agency  that  impressed  upon  this  region  its 
peculiar  features  and  characteristics,  it  is  equally  manifest 
that  an  aqueous  action  exerted  an  influence  in  moulding 
its  existing  formation.  Without  designing  to  vindicate 
any  opinion  or  to  educe  any  theory,  it  seems  appropriate 
that  I  should  present  summarily  a  few  prominent  facts 
which  may  possibly  convey  to  other  minds  elucidations 
and  arguments  on  this  subject. 

Lake  Champlain  is  only  ninety-three  feet  above  tide 
water,  and  a  plummet  descending  in  it  six  hundred  feet 
has  not  reached  bottom.  These  facts  may  be  suggestive 
of  important  considerations.  Marine  shells,  forming  large 
deposits  of  marl,  occur  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lake,  in  a 
state  of  such  preservation  .that  the  species  may  be  readily 
defined,  and  which  induces  the  belief  of  their  being  a 
comparatively  recent  deposit.  The  tenacious  blue  clay, 
surmounted  by  the  yellowish  clay  peculiar  to  marine  form 
ations,  may  be  traced  widely  disseminated  in  the  county. 
Numerous  deposits  are  disclosed  along  the  sides  of  hills 
and  mountains,  of  large  gravel,  rounded  by  attrition  and 
decay,  and  presenting  every  assimilation  in  appearance  to 


424  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

the  line  of  a  beach  that  has  been  washed  by  the  surges. 
The  sand  drifts  are  uniformly,  or  nearly  so,  exposed  in 
long  and  narrow  expanses,  occupying  the  tracts  of  valleys 
or  ravines.  The  recent  formation  is  perfectly  illustrated 
near  the  village  of  Pleasant  Valley,  where  a  slide  exposes 
the  stratification  of  the  earth  to  a  depth  of  some  twenty 
feet.  The  lower  stratum  revealed  is  the  yellow  clay,  suc 
ceeded  by  a  coarse  and  rough  gravel ;  this  is  surmounted 
by  a  smaller  gravel,  clear  and  abraded ;  the  latter  is 
covered  by  a  stratum  of  sand,  light  and  washed,  and 
beneath  the  entire  mass  projects  logs  and  roots.  The 
lovely  valley  that  borders  the  Schroon  river,  and  spreads 
over  an  area  of  several  miles  between  Paradox  and  Schroon 
lakes,  presents  equally  decisive  evidences  of  a  recent 
formation.  This  plain  is  fertile,  and  now  generally  under 
high  cultivation.  In  sinking  pits  for  wells  and  other  pur 
poses,  logs  nearly  entire  and  prostrate  trees  are  constantly 
found  from  twelve  to  seventeen  feet  below  the  surface.1 
I  have  before  referred  to  the  appearance  of  ripple  marks 
near  the  base  of  the  walled  banks  of  the  Au  Sable,  and  in 
another  connection  have  mentioned  the  remarkable  fos- 
eiliferous  rock  on  Willsboro'  point. 

In  Elizabethtown,  on  the  brow  of  an  eminence,  many 
feet  above  the  valley,  a  formation  in  the  solid  rock,  smooth 
and  rounded,  may  be  seen,  not  unlike  in  size  and  general 
appearance  to  a  common  caldron  kettle.  I  examined  two 
others  on  the  premises  of  Colonel  Calkins,  and  similarly 
situated  upon  the  crest  of  a  precipice.  I  also  inspected 
another  formation  of  this  kind  on  the  lands  of  Messrs. 
Treadway,  in  Schroon.  The  half  circle  of  this  remains 
entire ;  the  residue  has  been  apparently  destroyed  by  frag 
ments  of  rocks,  fallen  from  the  cliffs  above.  The  entire 
circle  was  probably  twenty  feet  in  diameter.  This  also 
stands  upon  the  verge  of  a  high  and  abrupt  precipice  of 
probably  two  hundred  feet  in  depth.  The  appearance, 
the  form,  the  position,  the  smooth  and  worn  surface  of 

1  Clark  liawson,  Esq. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  425 

these  extraordinary  structures,  all  indicate  that  they  have 
been  formed  by  the  abrasions  of  a  rapid  and  powerful 
current  of  water. 

The  existence  of  boulders  formed  of  every  rock,  and  dis 
seminated  through  the  county,  equally  upon  the  hills  and 
mountains  as  in  the  valleys,  presents  a  broad  and  attractive 
field  for  scientific  researches  and  philosophical  speculations. 
Boulder  rock,  dissimilar  in  character  and  belonging  to 
other  formations,  worn  and  rounded,  are  scattered  over 
the  county  in  utter  confusion  and  dislocation.  Granite 
intermingled  with  sand,  sandstone  resting  upon  hyperstene, 
and  gneiss  upon  limestone,  perpetually  occur.  A  gentle 
man  of  intelligence  assured  me,  that  he  had  examined  a 
fragment  of  red  sandstone  near  the  summit  of  a  hyperstene 
mountain,  in  the  centre  of  the  county,  and  remote  from 
every  rock  of  that  description.  -I  saw  in  Moriah,  a 
Potsdam  sandstone  block  lying  upon  the  surface  of  a  rock 
of  gneiss,  many  miles  from  the  former  in  site.  Among 
the  Adirondacs,  at  an  elevation  of  one  thousand  seven  hun 
dred  feet,  and  more  than  one  thousand  feet  above  any 
known  locality  of  Potsdam  sandstone,  pebbles  of  that  rock 
are  found,  bearing  all  the  close  crystaline  appearance  of 
that  stone  at  Keeseville.1  They  are  found  in  gravel  pits, 
sand  beds,  and  along  the  banks  of  the  river.  The  presence 
of  these  boulders,  varying  in  size  from  the  mere  pebbles 
to  masses  of  many  tons,  occurs  in  every  section  of  the 
county.  These  are  among  the  facts  and  circumstances 
existing  in  this  region  calculated  to  illustrate  theories  and 
speculations  on  the  subject  of  the  drift  formation  of  the 
country.  A  highly  corroborative  fact  has.  within  a  few 
years  been  revealed  to  the  scientific  world  by  the  zeal  of 
the  eminent  Professor  Zadock  Thompson,  of  the  Vermont 
University.  It  should  be  understood  that  a  perfect  geolo 
gical  analogy  exists  between  the  opposite  shores  of  Lake 
Champlain,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  discovery  referred  to. 
While  laborers  were  engaged  in  the  town  of  Charlotte. 

1R.  Clark. 


426  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Vermont,  in  forming  an  excavation  for  the  Rutland  and 
Burlington  rail  road.  They  exhumed  a  quantity  of  bones 
embedded  in  the  clay  about  eight  feet  below  the  natural 
surface  of  the  soil.  They  were  partially  broken  before 
their  peculiar  appearance  attracted  attention.  A  portion 
of  the  bones  was  transmitted  to  Mr.  Thompson,  who 
immediately  repaired  to  the  place,  and  after  much  labor 
succeeded  in  collecting  sufficient  of  the  remains  to  enable 
him  to  determine,  after  further  inspection,  that  they  were  the 
almost  perfect  skeleton  of  a  member  of  the  whale  family. 
Aided  by  the  great  science  of  Professor  Agassiz,  he  suc 
ceeded  in  arranging  and  collecting  the  bones,  and  decided 
the  animal  to  be  the  beluga  leucas  or  small  northern 
white  whale  of  Cuvier.  This  remarkable  fossil,  so  sig 
nificant  of  the  theory  to  which  I  have  adverted,  is  preserved 
in  the  department  of  natural  history  at  Montpelier. 

FERTILIZERS. 

Phosphate  of  Lime.  The  extraordinary  deposit  of  this 
rare  and  valuable  mineral  in  Crown  Point,  has  elicited 
much  interest  and  attention  from  both  the  scientific  and 
agricultural  community  of  England. 

The  public  owe  the  discovery  of  the  mine  in  Crown 
Point  to  the  discriminating  observation  and  sagacious 
enterprise  of  C.  F.  Hammond,  Esq.  His  attention  was 
originally  attracted  to  the  locality  by  an  appearance  of  iron 
ore,  and  the  presence  upon  and  near  the  surface  of  large 
numbers  of  quartz  crystals.  These  indications,  and  the 
peculiar  and  unusual  formation  and  texture  of  the  rocks, 
suggested  a  minute  examination  of  the  place,  which  re 
vealed  a  substance,  the  name  and  character  of  which  Mr. 
Hammond  was  ignorant.  In  the  year  1838,  he  directed 
the  attention  of  a  naturalist  to  it,  who  decided,  upon  a 
casual  inspection,  that  it  was  a  new  and  rare  mineral, 
and  designated  its  name,  but  pronounced  it  of  no  value 
except  for  cabinet  specimens.1  The  zeal  of  Mr.  Ham- 

1  C.  F.  Hammond. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  427 

mond  was  unabated,  and  in  a  subsequent  examina 
tion  urged  by  him  and  made  in  1850,  the  mineral  was 
ascertained  to  be  a  great  desideratum  in  agriculture  —  a 
natural  phosphate  of  lime.  In  the  autumn  of  the  same 
year  ground  was  broken  at  the  mine,  and  excavation  com 
menced.  The  opening  is  directly  upon  a  public  highway, 
and  one  mile  and  a  half  from  the  shore  of  Lake  Champlain. 
A  shaft  eight  to  ten  feet  wide  has  been  sunk  one  hundred 
and  fifteen  feet.  Lateral  galleries  have  been  projected 
north  and  west  from  the  bottom  of  the  shaft.  The  copper 
ore  already  noticed,  was  discovered  in  one  gallery,  and  the 
phosphate  was  raised  from  the  other.  About  one  hundred 
and  seventy  tons  of  the  first  quality  of  the  phosphate  was 
exported  to  ISTew  York  several  years  ago,  and  a  large  ac 
cumulation  of  an  inferior  quality  remained  at  the  mouth 
of  the  shaft.  No  recent  progress  has  been  made  in  the 
development  of  this  mine.  Phosphates  have  been  disclosed 
incorporated  with  the  ores  of  Moriah  and  other  places, 
taken  from  near  the  surface  in  inconvenient  profusion. 

Marl.  Specimens  of  marl  from  the  farm  of  Mr.  Tafft,  of 
Crown  Point,  and  the  estate  of  the  late  Col.  Watson,  of 
Port  Kent,  have  been  examined  and  analyzed  by  Professor 
Salisbury,  with  the  following  results : 

No.  3.  No.  4. 

Marl  Marine  Marl  Fresh 
Shells.                Water  Shells. 

Silicic  acid, 59.20  22.60 

Phosphoric  acid. 1.15  2.35 

Carbonic  acid, 9.92  28.15 

Sulphuric  acid, 0.15  0.09 

Lime,  12.78  3626 

Iron, 3.40  1.15 

Magnesia, 0.55  0.35 

Potassa,   0.45  0.36 

Soda, 0.40  0.07 

Chlorine, 0.11  0.12 

Organic  matter, 11.61  8.44 

99.72  99.94 


428  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

"  The  marine  marl  (No.  3,  from  Port  Kent),  is  a  deposit 
of  great  value  as  a  manure ;  aside  from  its  being  rich  in 
phosphoric  acid  and  lime,  it  contains  most  of  the  other 
inorganic  matter  which  enters  into  the  food  of  plants. 
No.  4  will  also  prove  valuable  to  those  in  its  vicinity." 

Limestone.  The  limestones  in  every  variety  so  extensively 
diffused  in  the  county,  incorporated  as  they  are  almost 
universally  with  other  fertilizing  elements,  will  prove,  I 
think,  of  the  highest  value  in  the  agricultural  economy  of 
the  county.  I  procured  a  specimen  of  rock  in  Schroon 
which  has  been  practically  tested  as  a  fertilizer,  with  a 
highly  favorable  result.1  A  careful  experiment,  comparing 
it  with  other  agents,  exhibits  very  satisfactory  effects.  The 
Nova  Scotia  plaster  proved  the  most  efficacious.  In  the 
effect  of  the  Schroon  rock  and  the  western  plaster,  no 
perceptible  difference  was  manifest.  The  influence  of  each 
was  marked  and  decisive,  indicated  by  the  superiority  of 
the  crop  to  which  they  were  applied,  over  that  part  which 
had  received  no  application  of  either  of  these  materials. 
A  similar  stone  is  found  in  Elizabethtown. 

Mack  and  Peat.  These  materials  exist  in  boundless 
quantities  in  every  section  of  the  county.  I  caused  analy 
ses  to  be  carefully  made  of  specimens  taken  from  different 
localities,  which  were  pronounced  peculiarly  rich  and  of 
great  value.  The  material  prevails  in  sufficient  quantities 
to  fertilize  every  acre  of  arable  land  in  the  district. 

QUARRIES. 

I  have  adverted  elsewhere  to  the  hyperstene  rock  of  the 
Adirondacs,  as  peculiarly  adapted,  by  its  durability  and 
exceeding  beauty,  for  building  purposes  and  ornamental 
work.  If  art  can  succeed  in  subduing  the  hard  and  in 
tractable  properties  of  this  stone,  and  we  have  seen  that 
experiments  have  been  highly  successful  in  approaching 
that  result,  few  materials  exist  more  beautiful  than  por 
tions  of  the  hyperstene,  by  its  rich  and  glowing  texture, 

1  Letter  of  AUjah  Smith,  Esq. 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  429 

and  by  the  exquisite  coloring,  so  deeply  variegated  and 
singularly  blended  in  its  appearance  and  formation.  The 
hyperstene,  after  appearing  in  a  wide  range,  through 
various  sections  of  the  county,  abruptly  terminates  on  the 
lower  Au  Sable,  in  contact  with  the  Potsdam  sandstone. 
The  latter,  for  several  miles,  formed  the  walled  banks  of 
the  Au  Sable,  and  expands  widely  through  the  valley. 

Keeseville   Quarries.  The  Postdam  sandstone   is  largely 
quarried  in  the  vicinity  of  Keeseville,  and  is  exported  to 
a  considerable  amount.     Lying  in  a  perfect  lamination,  it 
may  be  excavated  in  large  slabs  or  blocks.     Those  sixty 
feet  square  are  easily  obtained.     The  strata  are  so  clearly 
defined  and  separated,  that  the  only  power  requisite  in 
raising   the   stone,   is  the  wedge  and  lever.     Mr.  S.  E, 
Keeler,  the  occupant  of  one  of  the  most  extensive  deposits,, 
informs  me,  that  in  the  experience  of  many  years,  he  has- 
never  had  occasion  to  use  a  blast,  in  excavations  on  his 
quarry.     The   stone   presents,  on  the  horizontal  side,  a 
smooth  and  plane  surface.     The  stone  at  Keeseville  has 
usually  a  yellow-gray  coloring,  and  is  found  admirably 
adapted  to  flagging  and  building  purposes.     It  may  be  pro 
cured  in  slabs  or  blocks,  from  an  inch  to  nearly  a  foot  in 
thickness.     It  is  asserted  that  this  sandstone  is  impressed 
in  different  sites  by  very  dissimilar  qualities,  and  I  am  as 
sured,  that  in  some  instances,  where  the  Potsdam  sandstone 
Las  been    procured  in    other   localities,  and   has   proved 
defective,  the  deficiency  has  been  supplied  by  stone  taken 
from  the  Keeseville  quarries.     In  a  recent  official  paper 
addressed  to  the  commissioners  of  the  new  Capitol,  it  is 
stated  that   "  the  Potsdam   sandstone,  in  many  parts  of 
Clinton  county,  is  too  friable  for  any  economical  user 
beyond   furnishing   sand  for  glass   making."     I  am  not 
prepared  to  dissent  from  these  strictures  in  reference  to* 
the  stone  taken  from  some  quarries,  but  they  are  not  just,, 
if  intended  to  apply  to  the  Keeseville  stone.     When  first, 
raised,  it  is  slightly  soft,  not  friable,  but  after  exposure  to* 
the  atmosphere  becomes  exceedingly  hard.     Edifices  are 
now  standing,  which  furnish  proof  of  the  firmness  and 


430  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

durability  of  this  stone,  after  an  exposure  of  more  than 
half  a  century,  to  storms  and  the  action  of  the  elements. 
The  material  which  forms  these  buildings,  does  not  exhibit 
the  most  remote  appearance  of  decay  or  disintegration. 
In  another  passage  of  the  same  report,  which  may  be  con 
structed  as  a  general  application  to  the  Potsdam  sand 
stone,  it  is  remarked :  "  Its  commonly  striped  or  variegated 
color  offers  an  objectionable  feature  for  a  general  use  in 
building."  A  solitary  specimen  of  the  Keeseville  stone 
occasionally  shows  a  stain  from  iron,  but  it  is  never 
stripecf  or  vaiiegated.  It  forms,  when  care  and  judgment 
are  exercised  in  a  selection,  a  soft,  warm  and  beautiful 
building  material  in  its  coloring,  that  is  at  once  orna 
mental  and  enduring. 

A  quarry  of  marble  is  situated  upon  the  premises  of 
Mr.  J.  !N".  Macomber  in  Chesterfield,  near  Keeseville,  and 
apparently  of  large  extent.  Its  coloring  is  light  brown, 
variegated  by  white,  with  a  shelly  combination,  and  re 
ceives  a  brilliant  polish.  The  uncommon  appearance  and 
coloring  of  this  marble  will  probably  render  it  a  valuable 
deposit. 

Clark's  Quarry,  in  Willsboro',  is  on  the  margin  of'Wills- 
boro'  bay  and  is  worked  by  S.  W.  Clark  &  Co.  The  rock 
is  the  Trenton  limestone,  and  embraces  two  varieties,  the 
Black  river  and  the  Birdseye.  The  dip  of  the  strata 
is  so  slight,  that  the  stone  is  raised  with  great  facility.1 
A  commodious  wharf  has  been  erected  on  the  premises, 
which  enables  the  stone  to  be  shipped  at  the  quarry.  The 
operations  of  this  concern  are  very  extensive,  and  usually 
give  employment  to  from  forty  to  sixty  laborers.  The 
stones  frequently  excavated  at  this  quarry  are  of  enormous 
size.  They  are  exported  to  various  points  for  material 
in  the  construction  of  public  edifices,  and  for  ornamental 
works,  including  door  steps,  columns,  sills  and  monuments. 
In  the  spring  of  1869,  the  proprietors  of  this  quarry 
effected  a  heavy  contract  with  the  commissioners  for  sup- 

1  Rev.  A.  D.  Barber, 


NATURAL  HISTORY.  431 

plying  stone  to  the  new  Capitol.  They  now  (autumn,  1869) 
employ  nearly  three  hundred  laborers,  and  load  a  canal 
boat  daily  from  their  wharf.  A  massive  rock  from  this 
quarry  forms  the  first  foundation  stone  of  the  new  edifice. 
Near  the  scene  of  these  operations,  another  quarry  of 
similar  stone  is  worked  by  the  Messrs.  Frisbie,  for  the 
manufacture  of  lime.  A  large  amount  of  this  material  is 
annually  burnt  at  these  kilns  and  exported.  In  the  town 
of  Essex,  another  primitive  limestone  kiln  is  owned  and 
worked  by  Messrs.  William  Hoskin  &  Co.  Another  large 
and  productive  quarry  of  limestone  has  for  many  years 
been  worked  in  Westport.  A  quarry  of  black  clouded 
marble  of  rare  beauty  and  softness  occurs  upon  the  old 
garrison  grounds  at  Crown  Point.  Although  nearly  a 
century  and  a  half  ago  the  entrenchments  of  Fort  St. 
Frederic  penetrated  a  section  of  this  quarry,  it  has  excited 
no  interest,  until  the  attention  of  the  Messrs.  Hammond 
a  few  years  since,  was  directed  to  it.  The  texture  of  the 
stone  is  firm  and  consolidated,  but  so  soft  and  free  from 
grit,  that  it  may  be  easily  carved  by  a  pocket  knife.  It 
opens  in  large  slabs  and  blocks,  receives  a  high  polish, 
and  is  adapted  for  the  most  delicate  fabrics.  This  quarry 
has  not  been  worked.  Another  deposit  of  dark  stone, 
near  the  river,  in  Ticonderoga,  is  extensive  and  probably 
valuable.  Harder  and  less  delicate  than  the  marble  at 
Crown  Point,  it  is  darker,  and  appears  to  be  susceptible 
of  a  very  high  finish.  Near  the  marble  deposit  in  Crown 
Point,  an  excellent  quarry  of  limestone  is  successfully 
worked. 

Many  quarries  of  various  kinds  of  rock  not  embraced 
in  the  above  description  are  worked  in  the  county  for 
local  convenience,  and  the  production  of  lime  and  others 
are  known  to  exist,  but  at  present  are  undeveloped. 


PART  IV. 
INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES. 


The  earliest  business  associations  of  northern  New 
York  were  connected  with  the  markets  of  the  St.  Law 
rence.  The  illimitable  forests  of  Essex  county  presented 
the  first  field  to  the  settler  for  the  efforts  of  industry,  and 
has  continued  to  their  successors  an  inexhaustible  source 
of  enterprise  and  wealth.  The  lumber  trade  with  Canada 
commenced  soon  after  the  permanent  occupation  of  the 
country  subsequent  to  the  revolution.  It  enlisted  for  many 
years  almost  the  whole  energies  of  the  population. 

The  public  lands  yielded  a  rich  and  free  harvest  to  those 
who  entered  upon  them,  while  the  rights  of  private  owners 
of  wild  lands  were  regarded  with  exceeding  laxity.  Nor 
way  pine  and  oak  were  at  that  time  principally  esteemed 
for  the  Canadian  trade.  White  pine  had  little  comparative 
value.  The  oak  sticks,  prepared  for  the  northern  market, 
were  hewn.  The  pines  were  designed  for  the  navy  of 
England,  and  were  transported  to  Quebec,  round,  and  of 
any  length  exceeding  twenty  feet.  Spars  of  vast  dimen 
sions  were  exported  from  the  shores  of  Lake  Cham  plain, 
and  sold  to  the  agents  of  the  British  government,  probably 
to  form 

The  mast  of  some  tall  admiral. 

The  winter  season  was  chiefly  devoted  to  preparing  and 
-collecting  these  materials,  and  the  whole  force  of  the  teams 
.and  labor  of  the  country  was  put  in  requisition  for  the 
object.  The  timber  was  gathered  in  coves  or  low  marshes,, 
protected  from  the  winds  and  floods  of  early  spring,  and 
there  formed  into  immense  rafts.  Deals  or  thick  planks 
of  pine,  and  oak  staves  were  ultimately  manufactured,  and 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  433 

exported  to  the  same  market.  These  articles  were  arranged 
in  cribs,  and  transported  with  the  rafts  or  piled  upon  its 
surface.  The  rafts  were  often  of  great  size.  They  were 
propelled  through  the  lake  by  sails  and  oars,  and  were 
borne  by  the  current  and  tide  down  the  Sorel  and  St.  Law 
rence  river.  In  passing  the  rapids  of  the  former,  the  rafts 
were  partially  taken  asunder.  The  strong  currents  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  impelled  them  rapidly  down  that  stream, 
but  the  turbulent  tides  near  Quebec  often  swept  them 
beyond  the  havens  of  that  city,  with  great  danger,  and  at 
times  a  total  loss.  These  catastrophes  were  not  unfrequeiit. 
The  average  price  at  Quebec,  of  oak  timber,  was  forty 
cents  per  cubic  foot,  and  that  o/  pine,  about  twenty  cents. 
The  timber  cost,  delivered  upon  the  shores  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  from  six  to  eight  cents,  and  the  transportation  from 
thence  to  Quebec,  was  about  two  and  a  half  cents  in 
addition,  per  cubic  foot.  The  profit  of  this  traffic  seems 
to  have  been  exorbitant,  yet  singularly,  it  proved  to  most 
who  engaged  in  it,  unfortunate  and  disastrous.  The  mag 
nitude  and  activity  of  this  business  rapidly  exhausted  the 
masses  of  timber  contiguous  to  the  lake,  and  spars  and 
timber  were  eventually  transported  from  forests  fifteen 
miles  in  the  interior,  to  the  place  of  rafting.  Small  rafts 
of  spars  and  dock  stick,  formed  of  the  scattered  relics  of 
the  original  forests,  are  still  annually  collected  and  carried 
to  the  southern  market. 

No  decked  vessel,  it  is  stated,  navigated  Lake  Cham- 
plain  seventy  years  ago.  The  insignificant  commerce  which 
at  that  period  existed  upon  its  waters,  was  conducted  in 
cutters,  piraguas,  and  bateaux.  Few  wharves  had  then 
been  constructed. 

The  emigrants  desiring  to  land  their  stock,  were  often 
compelled  to  approach  some  favorable  position,  and  throw 
ing  the  animals  overboard,  swim  them  to  the  shore.  In 
the  more  sparsely  settled  districts,  vessels  freighted  with 
salt  would  anchor  in  same  adjacent  cove,  and  announce  its 
presence  to  the  inhabitants,  who  were  often  compelled  to 
28 


434  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

haul  their  grain  on  sleds  through  the  woods,  to  barter  for 
the  salt.  In  this  interchange,  a  bushel  of  wheat  usually 
purchased  a  bushel  of  salt.1  The  merchant  visiting  the 
southern  market  for  goods,  before  the  introduction  of 
steamers  upon  the  lake,  which  occurred  in  1809,  consumed 
generally  a  month  on  the  journey.  The  return  of  the 
merchandise  was  still  more  protracted.  This  journey  was 
often  performed  on  horseback,  and  occasionally  by  a  chance 
vessel.  The  goods  were  transported  in  winter  by  sleighs, 
and  at  other  seasons  by  water,  from  Whitehall.  The  vil 
lage  of  Essex,  for  a  series  of  years,  was  the  important  busi 
ness  mart  of  this  entire  region. 

The  construction  of  the  Champlain  canal  gave  a  different 
direction,  and  imparted  a  new  character  to  the  lumbering 
operations  of  northern  New  York.  Norway  pine  became 
subordinate  in  value  to  the  white  pine.  The  Quebec  trade 
yielded  to  the  new  avenues  opened  to  our  own  marts. 
Finer  articles  of  lumber  were  prepared  for  the  southern 
markets.  The  lumber  business  in  its  changed  aspect  again 
became  the  paramount  occupation  of  the  country.  Innu 
merable  saw-mills  were  erected,  and  the  forests  of  white 
pine  were  demolished  with  as  much  rapidity  as  the  Nor 
way  pine  had  been  at  an  earlier  day,  to  supply  the  Quebec 
market. 

The  amount  and  value  of  the  various  fabrics,  the  pro 
duce  of  the  forest,  which  have  been  transported  by  the 
Champlain  canal  from  Essex  county,  are  almost  inappre 
ciable. 

The  exhaustion  of  the  forests  accessible  from  Lake 
Champlain,  has  constrained  the  lumber  manufacturer  to 
seek  his  resources  in  the  wilds  of  the  interior.  Logs  are 
now  floated  from  the  most  remote  districts  of  Franklin 
county  down  the  Saranac  river  and  through  a  portion  of 
Essex  county,  to  supply  the  mills  on  that  stream.  State 
bounty  has  been  extended  with  muniticence  to  aid  in 
opening  that  wilderness  to  this  policy,  by  important  im- 

1  Norman  Page,  Esq. 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  435 

provements  in  the  navigation  of  the  Saranac,  Raquette, 
and  other  rivers,  which  penetrate  that  territory. 

A  large  and  valuable  tract  of  timber  land  lying  in  the 
confines  of  Wilmington  and  North  Elba,  spreads  along  the 
acclivities  and  for  many  miles  around  the  base  of  the  White  - 
face  mountain.  This  is  the  only  district  of  extent  or  value 
occupied  by  the  primitive  forest  of  pine,  spruce,  and  hem 
lock,  now  remaining  of  Essex  county  and  accessible. 
Environed  by  lofty  mountain  barriers,  it  is  impracticable 
to  export  manufactured  lumber  from  this  region.  It  is 
estimated  that  this  tract  may  yield  one  million  of  saw  logs. 

The  numerous  and  widely  diffused  branches  of  the 
Hudson  have  annually  appropriated  for  the  transit  of  a  very 
large  amount  of  logs.  Insignificant  mountain  rivulets 
swollen  by  the  spring  freshets,  are  converted  into  valuable 
mediums  for  this  purpose,  by  the  adroit  management  of 
the  experienced  lumberman. 

WHISKEY. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  century  numerous  distilleries 
existed  in  the  county,  but  the  business  was  the  most  active 
in  the  town  of  Wilmington.  The  tillage  of  the  town  was 
almost  wholly  devoted  to  the  production  of  rye,  to  supply 
these  works.  During  the  war  of  1812,  the  manufacture 
of  whiskey  was  an  extensive  and  highly  lucrative  occupa 
tion.  I  am  not  aware  that  a  single  distillery  now  exists 
in  the  county  of  Essex. 

POTASHES. 

While  the  county  was  passing  through  its  transition 
from  a  primitive  state  to  cultivation,  the  forest  yielded  a 
highly  lucrative  and  available  resource,  in  the  manufacture 
of  potash.  Prohibited  exportation  by  the  non-intercourse 
policy  of  our  own  government,  this  traffic  was  illicit ;  but, 
stimulated  by  the  exorbitant  prices  which  the  exigencies 
of  the  British  affairs  attached  to  the  article  in  the  Canadian 
market,  an  immense  quantity  found  its  way  from  northern 
New  York  into  Montreal.  This  manufacture  occupied  a 


436  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

large  portion  of  the  population  in  its  various  connections, 
while  the  excitement  existed,  which  was  alone  terminated 
by  the  final  declaration  of  war  in  1812.  As  a  distinct 
business  it  is  now  nearly  abandoned. 

A  conflagration  of  the  woods  presents  a  scene  in  the 
highest  degree  imposing  and  terrific,  and  often  inflicts 
destructive  ravages  upon  the  pursuits  of  the  manufacturer, 
as  well  as  the  products  of  agriculture.  In  certain  periods 
of  the  year,  the  dried  leaves  and  other  combustible  mate 
rials  of  the  forest  form  an  inflammable  mass,  which  spreads 
a  flame  with  inconceivable  celerity.  Impelled  by  the 
wind,  which  constantly  accumulates  in  vehemence,  its  pro 
gress  is  so  rapid  that  neither  man  nor  beast  is  secure  of 
safety  in  flight.  It  spreads  widely  its  column  of  flame  as 
it  advances.  It  seizes  upon  tops  of  the  loftiest  trees,  and 
leaping  from  object  to  object,  it  laps  up  every  combustible 
substance,  far  in  advance  of  the  body  of  the  conflagration. 
Sparks  borne  by  the  whirlwind  for  furlongs,  start  new 
fires.  Immense  amounts  of  property,  comprising  timber, 
lumber,  wood,  dwellings,  fences,  crops  of  grain  and  grass 
are  often  in  a  few  hours  consumed  by  these  inflictions. 
The  intense  heat  of  these  fires,  by  consuming  all  the 
organic  elements  of  the  soil,  frequently  destroys  for  many 
years  the  fertility  of  the  earth. 

IRON  MANUFACTORIES. 

The  progress  of  the  iron  manufacturing  interests  of 
Essex  has  not  been  commensurate  with  the  resources  indi 
cated  by  its  immense  mineral  wealth.  In  the  comparative 
infancy  of  a  country,  this  advance  could  not  be  expected. 
Specific  causes,  however,  have  exerted  an  influence  which 
has  largely  tended  to  arrest  the  general  manufacturing 
prosperity  of  northern  New  York.  The  great  absence 
formerly  of  capital,  which  is  the  essential  basis  of  extended 
manufacturing  operations,  the  remoteness  of  the  district 
from  the  centre  of  business,  and  the  want  of  all  artificial 
channels  of  intercourse,  were  very  obvious  reasons  for  this 
depression.  Lake  Champlain  has  furnished  the  only 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  437 

medium  for  transportation  to  markets,  and  the  closing  of 
that  navigation  for  nearly  six  months  of  the  year  suspended 
all  transit,  and  left  the  productions  of  the  manufactories 
for  that  long  term  upon  the  hands  of  the  producers.  In 
all  these  aspects  the  changes  are  most  auspicious.  Capital 
is  more  abundant,  and  the  rail  roads  now  in  progress  of 
rapid  construction  will  soon  open  this  sequestered  region 
to  a  certain  and  ready  intercourse  with  the  world,  and 
animate  its  slumbering  resources. 

In  pursuing  my  contemplated  plan,  I  propose,  in  the 
succeeding  pages  to  present  a  brief  outline  of  the  origin, 
progress  and  existing  condition  of  the  iron  manufactories 
of  Essex  county  with  an  incidental  view  of  all  its  industrial 
interests.  While  the  magnitude  and  prominence  of  the 
iron  interest  will  demand  particular  consideration,  I  design 
in  noticing  the  more  prominent  localities,  to  embrace  an 
account  of  other  important  manufactories  connected  with 
them,  either  in  business  or  by  territorial  affinities.  The 
numerous  affluents  of  the  Au  Sable,  descending  impetuously 
from  high  and  often  mountainous  sources,  form  in  their 
course  an  infinitude  of  water  privileges.  The  river  itself, 
for  a  considerable  extent,  is  the  boundary  line  between 
the  counties  of  Clinton  and  Essex.  In  treating  of  the 
valuable  manufacturing  works  situated  in  the  Au  Sable 
valley,  I  find  it  impracticable  to  separate  those  essentially 
located  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  from  those  standing 
specifically  on  the  soil  of  Essex  county.  The  dams  usu 
ally  rest  upon  the  territory  of  each  county ;  the  interests 
of  these  establishments  directly  affect,  and  are  intimately 
associated  with  both  counties,  and  their  immense  business 
movements  extend  their  operations  widely  through  all  the 
adjacent  territory  on  either  side  of  the  stream.  In  de 
scribing,  therefore,  the  manufacturing  interests  of  Essex 
county,  I  am  compelled,  in  this  view,  to  include  all  that 
belongs  to  the  Au  Sable  valley. 

Early  in  the  century,  the  fires  of  small  forges  illumi 
nated  numerous  sequestered  spots  in  almost  every  section 
of  the  county.  These  works  exerted  a  beneficent  local 


438  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

influence.  They  stimulated  the  industry  of  remote  dis 
tricts;  they  created  a  market  for  all  the  products  of 
husbandry  ;  by  a  demand  for  wood  and  coal,  they  imparted 
a  value  to  unprofitable  forests,  and  thus  enhanced  the 
price  of  lands,  and  promoted  the  cultivation  of  the  earth. 
Little  hamlets  clustered  around  these  sites,  and  some 
exhibited  the  impress  of  civilization  by  their  varied  arts, 
their  schools,  and  religious  movements.  While  some  of 
these  enterprises  remain  and  are  prosperous,  many  have 
disappeared  in  the  mutation  of  affairs.  With  some,  the 
supply  of  wood  has  failed ;  the  proprietors  of  others  did 
not  possess  the  requisite  strength  to  resist  the  adverse 
waves  that  so  often  roll  across  the  manufacturing  inter 
ests,  and  others  have  been  overshadowed  or  absorbed  by 
more  powerful  institutions.  When  we  view,  amid  the 
ruins  of  these  scenes,  the  water  rushing  over  decaying 
dams ;  the  earth  strewn  with  the  vestiges  of  former  in 
dustry,  and  the  humble  dwellings  shattered  and  falling, 
the  heart  will  be  saddened,  and  we  almost  accept  the 
spectacle  as  an  evidence  of  a  fallen  business  and  impove 
rished  land.  But  in  reality,  new  changes  have  generally 
proved  more  favorable  to  the  general  interests  and  expan 
sion  of  a  large  district. 

William  Gilliland  appears  to  have  contemplated  in  1783 
the  idea  of  erecting  iron  works  upon  the  shores  of  Lake 
Champlain,  and  engaged  in  an  actual  negotiation  in  refer 
ence  to  that  design.1  The  iron  manufacturing  business  of 
Essex  county,  destined  to  become  an  interest  of  national 
consideration ,  was  initiated  in  a  feeble  establishmen  t  at  Wills- 
boro'  Falls.  These  works  were  erected  in  1801,  by  Levi 
Highbey  and  George  Throop,  sustained  by  the  capital  of 
Charles  Kane  of  Schenectady,  and  primarily  designed  for 
the  fabrication  of  anchors.  The  partners  held  an  unlimited 
contract  for  the  sale  of  all  that  article  they  might  make  for  a 
term  often  years.  The  anchors  varying  from  three  hun 
dred  to  fifteen  hundred  pounds  were  to  be  delivered  at 

1  Champlain  Valley,  190. 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  439 

Troy.  They  were  transported  by  \vater  to  Whitehall, 
thence  carted  to  Fort  Edward,  and  there  shipped  on  bateaux. 
One  or  two  unfavorable  experiments  were  made  in  export 
ing  them  to  Quebec.  It  is  a  remarkable  circumstance  that 
the  ore  used  in  these  works  for  ten  years,  was  principally 
obtained  in  Vermont,  with  a  few  loads  from  Canada.  "A 
bed  at  Basin  Harbor,  owned  by  Platt  Rogers,  was  the  only 
deposit  of  iron  ore,  which  at  that  period  had  been  developed 
in  the  whole  region.  Soon  after  the  close  of  the  ten  years 
contract,  the  Arnold  ore  bed  in  Clinton  county  was  dis 
covered.1  The  foundery,  at  Willsboro',  in  addition  to 
anchors,  cast  mill  cranks,  grist  mill  machinery,  and  ulti 
mately  steam  boat  irons.  This  property  fell  into  other 
hands,  and  was  finally  converted  into  a  forge.  The  same 
year  in  which  this  enterprise  was  commenced  at  Willsboro', 
Liberty  Newman  of  Shoreham,  Vermont,  erected  iron 
works  at  the  upper  falls  in  Ticonderoga.2  I  have  not  been 
able  to  trace  the  history  or  results  of  this  movement. 
At  an  early  period  in  the  century,  William  D.  Ross  of 
Essex,  erected  a  rolling  mill  on  the  Boquet,  for  making 
nail  plates.  These  plates  were  manufactured  in  large 
quantities,  and  sold  at  $8  per  cwt,  to  the  nail  factory  in 
New  Haven,  Vermont. 

Elba  Iron  Works.  About  the  year  1809,  Archibald  Mc- 
Intire  and  his  associates  erected  iron  works  upon  a  small 
stream  among  the  head  waters  of  the  Au  Sable  river, 
and  in  a  remote  section  of  the  county,  comprised  within 
the  limits  of  the  present  town  of  North  Elba.  It  was  a 
forge  of  four  to  six  fires,  and  designated  the  Elba  Iron 
works.  The  ore  used  at  the  commencement  was  found  in 
that  region,  but  proving  impracticable,  was  abandoned, 
and  the  works  were  afterwards  supplied  by  ore  transported 
from  the  Arnold  bed  in  Clinton  county,  a  distance  of  many 
miles,  over  roads  only  passable  on  snow.  The  products  of 
the  forge  were  exported  both  to  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Lake 
Champlain,  but  by  routes  laborious  and  expensive. 

1  Letter  of  late  Levi  HigJibey.        2  Goodhue's  Shoreham. 


440  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

The  business  for  a  series  of  years  was  eminently  prosper 
ous.  The  works,  however,  proved  too  remote  from  market, 
and  ineligibly  situated  for  enduring  success,  and  in  the 
year  1815  were  abandoned.  A  decayed  dam,  and  frag 
ments  of  broken  wheels  and  shafts,  and  similar  vestiges, 
are  the  only  memorials  of  their  former  existence.  In  the 
meanwhile  other  forges  were  gradually  appearing  in  the 
region,  and  when,  in  1820,  the  Champlain  canal  had  been 
constructed,  the  iron  interest  rapidly  expanded,  and  at  once 
exhibited  in  the  increase  of  its  varied  works,  an  earnest  of 
its  approaching  prosperity  and  importance.  The  valley  of 
the  Au  Sable  river  was  early  distinguished  as  the  promi 
nent  seat  of  the  iron  manufactories,  and  it  still  maintains 
that  preeminence. 

Au  SABLE  VALLEY. 

Wilmington.  Some  years  after  the  Elba  works  had  been 
abandoned,  the  Hon.  Reuben  Sanford,  who  occupied  several 
political  positions  of  prominence  in  the  state,  created  an 
extensive  manufacturing  establishment  in  Wilmington,  on 
the  west  branch  of  the  Au  Sable  river  and  about  twelve 
miles  from  Au  Sable  Forks.  Severe  changes  in  the 
fluctuations  of  business  and  serious  calamities  inflicted  by 
the  elements  impaired  his  affairs,  and  the  property  passed 
into  the  proprietorship  of  others.  It  has  since  experienced 
many  vicissitudes.  The  site  is  now  occupied  by  a  grist 
mill  and  starch  factory;  a  saw-mill  with  three  gates  and 
running  about  forty  saws,  and  a  forge  owned  by  Weston  & 
Nye,  with  two  fires  but  adapted  to  four.  In  1868,  about 
two  hundred  tons  of  iron  were  made  at  this  forge.  It  con 
sumes  charcoal  and  produces  bloom  iron.  At  present  it 
uses  the  Palmer  Hill  ore,  drawn  about  thirteen  miles,  but 
a  bed  is  now  in  process  of  opening,  it  is  represented,  with 
favorable  indications  in  the  extent  and  quantity  of  the  ore. 
At  the  village  of  Bloomingdale,  in  the  adjacent  town  of 
St.  Arrnands,  and  upon  a  tributary  of  the  Saranac  there  is 
at  present  in  operation,  a  starch  factory,  and  a  grist  and 
saw-mill. 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  441 

Lower  Jay  Village.  Upon  the  south  branch  of  the  An 
Sable  several  mills  and  factories  are  in  operating,  but  all 
of  subordinate  importance  except  upon  this  site.  At  this 
place  extensive  works  were  erected  in  1809.  While  in  the 
possession  of  Messrs.  G.  A.  Purmort  &  Co.,  they  included 
a  grist  and  sawmill  and  forge  with  other  minor  workshops. 
These  gentlemen  suffered  severe  reverses,  and  in  1864,  the 
property  was  purchased  by  Messrs.  J.  &  J.  Rogers.  It 
is  at  this  time  embraced  within  their  vast  manufacturing 
domain.  The  establishment  conspires  a  forge  which  has 
recently  been  rebuilt  with  six  fires,  one  hammer  of  five 
tons,  and  four  horizontal  cylinders  with  various  other 
mechanical  works.  All  are  impelled  by  water  power.  A 
brick  yard  is  connected  with  the  property  that  produced 
the  past  year  four  hundred  thousand  bricks,  which  were 
exclusively  used  in  the  business  of  the  firm.  The  forge 
consumes  charcoal  burnt  in  close  kilns,  and  is  supplied  with 
ore  from  the  Palmer  Hill  mine.  Since  its  construction, 
the  forge  is  considered  a  work  of  the  first  class. 

Au  Sable  Forks.  The  West  and  South  Branch  unite  at 
this  place  and  form  distinctively,  the  Au  Sable  river. 
Each  stream  presents  at  this  point  a  valuable  water  power 
of  nearly  equal  volume.  The  premises  which  include 
these  sites  were  originally  owned  by  Zephariiah  Palmer. 
Messrs.  Burts  &  Vanderwarker  became  owners  of  the  pro 
perty  in  1825  and  erected  a  saw-mill  with  two  gates. 
About  the  year  1828,  this  company  in  connection  with 
Keese,  Lapnaru  &  Co.,  with  which  Caleb  &  Barton 
was  associated,  built  a  forge  of  four  fires.  The  forge 
was  chiefly  supplied  with  ore  from  the  Arnold  bed,  and 
in  part  from  Palmer  hill.  Nearly  at  this  time,  another 
saw-mill  was  erected;  and  soon  after,  the  association  sold 
out  to  a  stock  company,  which  was  organized  in  1834 
under  the  name  of  the  Sable  Iron  Company,  and  repre 
sented  by  Reuben  Sanford,  Arden  Barker,  James  Rogers, 
John  Fitzgerald,  Richard  H.  Peabody,  Robert  B.  Hazard^ 
and  Calvin  Cook,  as  trustees.  The  ensuing  year,  the 
works  were  carried  on  for  the  company  under  the  agency 


442  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

of  John  Woodman.     In  1836,  operations  were  suspended, 
and  in  1837,  the  entire  property  was  purchased  by  Messrs. 
J.  &  J.  Rogers.     The  corporate  name,  for  many  purposes, 
is  still  retained,  although  the  title  and  exclusive  interest  is 
now   owned  by  the  Messrs.   Rogers.     Immediately  after 
these  gentlemen  had  acquired  the  property,  they  pursued 
the  most  efficient  measures  to  enlarge  and  improve  the 
works.     On  the  West  Branch,  a  short  distance  above  the 
confluence  of  the  two  streams,  a  heavy  dam  has  been  built, 
which  is  thoroughly  protected  from  freshets  and  ice  by 
strong  bulwarks.     A  forge  was  erected  on  this  darn  in  1848 
upon  the  site  of  one  which  had  been  consumed,  and  is  the 
only  important  structure  at  this  place  situated  on  the  West 
Branch.     This  forge  contains  four  fires,  one  hammer  of  five 
tons  and  three  horizontal  oscillating  cylinders,  thirty-one 
inches  diameter  and  forty  inches  stroke.     On  the  south 
bank  of  the  South  Branch  and  on  a  peninsula  formed  by  it 
and  the  main   stream  most  of  the  prominent  works  are 
located.     The  rolling  mill  was  built  in  1834.     It  has  two 
trains,  three  heating  furnaces,  two  engines,  and  one  water 
wheel.      The  nail  factory  contains  forty-eight  machines, 
with  a  capacity  of  producing  eighty  thousand  kegs  of  nails 
and  spikes  annually.     The  motive  power  of  the  rolling 
mill  is  created  by  water  taken  from  the  forge  pond  on  the 
West  Branch,  and  conducted  to  the  mill  by  a  wooden  tube 
or  aqueduct  five   and  a  half  feet  in  diameter  and   ninety 
rods  in  length.     This  aqueduct  is  carried   over  the  South 
Branch  upon  a  bridge  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  and 
eleven  feet  above  the  water.     A  carpenter  shop,  and  stave 
machinery,   are   driven   by  escape  water   from  the  forge 
wheels.     These  works  include  all  the  necessary  machinery 
for  preparing  the  material   for  making  nail   kegs.     The 
timber  is  sawed  the  appropriate  length,  the  staves  as  per 
fectly  formed  arid  grooved;  the  heading  is  cut  out  and  ad 
justed  in  form,  and  nothing  remains  for  the  exercise  of 
manual  labor,  but  to  put  the  diiferent  parts  together.     A 
wheelwright  shop  is   also  attached  to  this  range  of  build 
ings.     A  circular  saw  forty-eight  inches,  with  a  carriage 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  443 

fifty  feet  long  and  capable  of  greater  expansion  is  driven 
by  an  overshot  wheel.  The  boilers  attached  to  the  engines 
are  chiefly  heated  by  breese  (the  screenings  of  the  coal), 
shavings  and  chips.  In  the  connection  maybe  noticed,  an 
improved  and  most  effective  method  of  economizing  fuel. 
Between  the  fires  and  boilers,  iron  bars,  not  unlike  a  grid 
iron  in  form,  are  arranged,  and  upon  these  are  placed  nail 
plates,  and  thus  the  same  fires  heat  both  the  boilers  and 
the  plates.  The  rolling  mill  is  now  in  the  most  perfect 
and  efficient  condition.  The  cupola  furnace  and  foundery 
which  stands  in  immediate  proximity  to  the  rolling  mill 
are  mainly  if  not  exclusively  employed  in  fabricating  cast 
ings,  constantly  required  by  the  various  departments  of  the 
business  of  the  concern.  It  consumes  scrap  iron  and  pigs 
brought  from  distant  furnaces,  and  possesses  a  capacity 
equal  to  the  casting  of  articles  of  five  tons  weight  in  a 
single  process. 

Another  division  of  this  immense  business  is  located  on 
Black  brook,  a  tributary  of  the  Au  Sable,  and  is  situated 
in  Clinton  county  about  four  miles  from  Au  Sable  Forks, 
and  a  mile  and  a  half  north  of  the  Essex  county  line. 
Although  separated  in  location  from  the  works  at  the 
Forks,  by  motives  of  expediency  and  convenience,  those  at 
Lower  Jay  and  Black  Brook  are  in  effect  a  part  of  the 
same  establishment,  as  much  as  if  connected  with  it  by 
contiguous  position.  The  interests  are  identical;  all  their 
operations  are  inspired  by  the  same  intelligent  spirit  and 
guided  by  the  same  enlarged  business  capacities.  Each 
branch  and  all  their  varied  departments,  move  in  their  re 
spective  orbits  in  perfect  system  and  undisturbed  harmony. 
Mr.  James  Rogers  is  the  resident  partner  and  manager  at 
Au  Sable  Forks,  while  Mr.  John  Rogers,  residing  at  Black 
Brook,  exercises  the  immediate  supervision  of  the  division 
located  at  that  place.  Messrs.  Henry  D.  Graves  and 
Halsey  Rogers  are  the  efficient  assistant  managers  at  the 
Forks,  and  E.  Fairbank  at  Jay. 

The  works  at  Black  Brook  are  situated  on  two  sites, 
about  one-fourth  mile  apart,  and  designated,  the  Upper  and 


444  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Lower  village.  At  the  former,  the  Hon.  Halsey  Rogers  of 
Saratoga,  John  Mclntire  and  William  McDonald  in  1830, 
erected  a  saw  mill  and  other  structures.  In  1832,  Messrs.  Mc 
lntire  built  a  forge  of  two  fires  which  they  run  until  1835. 
Messrs.  J.  &  J.  Rogers,  in  company  with  the  Hon.  Halsey 
Rogers  and  Mr.  Thomas  Rogers,  now  of  Dubuque,  Iowa, 
as  part  owners,  in  1832  commenced  business  at  the  Lower 
village.  In  the  year  1835,  Messrs.  J.  &  J.  Rogers  became 
sole  proprietors  of  both  the  forges  at  Black  Brook,  and  soon 
after  one-third  owners  of  the  saw-mill  and  the  lands 
connected  with  it.  Nearly  at  this  time  John  McGregor 
purchased  the  one-third  interest  of  Mr.  McDonald  in  the 
saw-mill  property,  and  resided  on  the  premises  about  twenty 
years.  John  Mclntire  soon  after  sold  his  one-third  of  the 
property  to  Caleb  D.  Barton,  who  after  holding  it  a  few 
years  conveyed  his  interest  to  Henry  Martin.  He,  after 
occupying  it  a  short  term,  sold  to  Messrs  J.  &  J.  Rogers,  who 
subsequently  bought  the  part  owned  by  Mr.  McGregor. 
These  transactions  occurred  between  the  years  1853  and 
1846  and  invested  Messrs.  Rogers  with  the  title  of  the 
whole  property.  In  1832,  the  six  forge  fires  operating  at 
Black  Brook  produced  six  tons  of  blooms  per  week ;  at 
present  ten  fires  at  the  same  place  yield  seventy-five  tons 
in  the  same  period.  Such  has  been  the  amazing  progress 
of  manufacturing  skill  and  science.  The  Messrs.  Rogers 
estimate  that  one  thousand  bushels  of  good  coal  will  now 
make  three  tons  of  iron.  Two  saw  mills  are  running  at 
Black  Brook;  one  containing  two  gangs,  and  the  other 
a  single  gang,  with  a  circular  saw  in  each  mill.  These 
mills  cut  from  one  hundred  thousand  to  two  hundred  thou 
sand  pieces  of  boards  annually.  These  are  partly  consumed 
in  the  various  operations  of  the  concern,  and  the  residue, 
formerly  transperted  by  plank  road  to  Port  Kent  for  ex 
portation.  A  shingle  mill  is  now  completed  at  Black 
Brook  village. 

The  forge  fires  embraced  in  the  different  works  of  the 
Messrs.  Rogers  amount  in  the  aggregate  to  twenty-two 
fires,  and  yield  an  average  of  one  ton  each  per  day.  The 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  445 

concern  owns  forty-three  covered  kilns  for  making  char 
coal,  and  burn  in  them  every  variety  of  wood.  They  use 
charcoal  exclusively  in  their  works,  except  in  the  process 
of  heating  blooms  for  rolling  mills  in  which  they  employ 
Pennsylvania  coal.  The  iron  business  of  the  Messrs. 
Rogers  embraces  such  proportions,  and  is  arranged  with  so 
much  system  and  efficiency,  that  they  are  prepared  for 
almost  every  exigency  of  the  market.  When  nails  and 
bars  are  the  most  desirable  fabrics,  a  large  proportion  of 
their  blooms  are  rolled,  but  if  blooms  occupy  a  higher  place 
in  market,  nails  and  bars  become  with  them  a  subordinate 
production.  The  end  chunks,  cut  from  the  blooms,  are 
rolled  into  bars  and  nail  plates.  Their  nail  factory  when  in 
full  operation  presents  a  spectacle  of  the  greatest  animation 
and  interest. 

The  bloomeries  of  the  Messrs.  Rogers  are  known  in 
trade  as  Peru  iron.  Their  blooms  are  chiefly  sent  to 
Pittsburg,  Penn.,  and  there  made  into  cast  steel,  which 
it  is  asserted,  is  equal  to  any  made  on  this  continent  or  in 
Europe.  It  is  confidently  believed  by  its  manufacturers, 
that  American  cast  steel  may  soon  become  an  important 
article  of  exportation.  The  ore  used  in  the  works  of  the 
Messrs.  Rogers  is  derived  wholly  from  the  Palmer  mine, 
and  they  calculate  that  four  tons  of  this  ore  in  a  native 
condition,  or  from  two  to  two  and  a  quarter  tons  of  sepa 
rated  ore,  will  produce  a  ton  of  iron.  It  is  considered 
that  the  Palmer  ore  possesses  qualities  which  peculiarly 
adapt  it  to  the  fabrication  of  steel.  The  company  have 
two  separators  on  Palmer  brook,  and  another  building 
near  the  ore  bed,  and  one  also  at  the  Forks.  The  opera 
tions  of  this  concern  in  their  diversified  forms  and  singular 
ramifications  transcend  in  magnitude  most  business  trans 
actions  in  northern  New  York,  and  in  all  their  proportions 
can  scarcely  be  excelled  by  any  private  interest  in  the 
state.  The  Messrs.  Rogers  possess  a  landed  estate  exceed 
ing  fifty  thousand  acres,  and  this  enormous  territory  is 
maintained  principally  to  secure  an  inexhaustible  supply 
of  fuel  for  their  works.  This  domain  furnishes  nearly 


446  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

every  raw  material  they  require  in  their  varied  operations. 
Their  interest  in  the  Palmer  hill  mine  secures  all  the  ore 
they  consume ;  their  boundless  forests  afford  wood  for  the 
kilns  and  timber  for  the  saw  mills.  They  own  a  limestone 
quarry  near  the  works  at  Black  Brook,  of  the  choicest 
quality,  at  which  for  their  own  use  they  burn  annually 
about  five  thousand  bushels  of  lime.  They  possess  clay 
beds,  where  all  the  brick  they  need  is  produced.  The 
immense  amount  of  agricultural  commodities  they  yearly 
consume,  alone  exceeds  their  capacity  for  producing. 
The  moulding  sand  used  in  the  foundery  they  procure  from 
the  bed  of  Mr.  Mace,  on  the  bank  of  the  river  above 
Keeseville,  although  they  own  a  large  deposit  of  the 
material. 

A  single  fact  will  illustrate  the  great  and  diversified 
resources  of  this  company.  They  have  recently  erected  a 
large  and  elegant  edifice,  appropriated  to  their  own  use, 
for  a  store,  warerooms  and  offices.  They  have  also  an 
extensive  store  at  Black  Brook  and  another  at  Jay.  The 
building  at  the  Forks  is  constructed  chiefly  of  brick  and 
iron,  and  is  one  hundred  and  eight  feet  in  height,  and 
fifty-eight  feet  wide,  and  stands  three  stories  high  —  two 
of  thirteen  feet  and  the  other  of  fifteen  feet  in  height, 
above  the  basement.  The  latter  is  sufiiciently  high  and 
capacious  to  allow  teams  to  drive  in  and  unload.  The 
edifice  is  situated  at  the  Au  Sable  Forks,  and  placed  in  a 
locality  so  secluded,  is  an  object  that  excites  alike  surprise 
and  admiration.  But  we  are  impressed  by  greater  astonish 
ment,  when  we  learn  that  nearly  every  article,  which 
entered  into  its  construction,  was  produced  from  the  pre 
mises  of  the  proprietors.  The  glass,  the  paints  and  oil 
and  trimmings  were  purchased.  The  felt  and  cement  for 
the  roof  were  not  embraced  in  their  resources,  but  the 
gravel  to  cover  it  was  procured  within  a  mile  of  the  build 
ing.  The  brick  was  burnt  from  clay  found  on  their  own 
soil ;  the  nails  were  made  from  ore  taken  from  their  own 
mines,  and  the  massive  castings  which  adorn  and  strengthen 
the  building  were  fabricated  in  their  workshops ;  the  lurn- 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  447 

her  was  felled  in  their  forests  and  cut  at  their  own  mills. 
In  their  ardor  for  the  realization  of  the  idea,  that  this 
work  should  be  accomplished  from  their  own  resources, 
the  Messrs.  Kogers  utilized  the  black  ash,  a  denizen  of  the 
of  swamps,  usually  deemed  of  no  consideration,  and  even 
little  value  for  fuel.  This  wood  has  been  discovered  to  be 
a  beautiful  building  material,  and  it  now  decorates  their 
rooms  in  exquisite  panel  work  and  columns.  Its  dark 
grain  presents  richly  variegated  shades  in  strong,  deep 
coloring,  with  a  peculiarly  soft  and  rich  surface.  Is  there 
any  other  business  institution  in  the  country  capable  of 
achieving  a  triumph  like  this  ? 

That  so  much  energy  and  enterprise  has  met  with  ade 
quate  success,  seems  to  be  attested  by  the  fact,  that  the 
aggregate  revenue  returns  of  the  different  partners,  has 
amounted  to  more  than  $200,000  in  a  single  year.  The 
gross  sales  at  Au  Sable  Forks  and  Jay,  in  the  year  1867, 
amounted  to  $748,837.59.  The  company  has  paid  internal 
revenue  tax  from  1863  to  Dec.  1,  1868,  $82,541.97. 

The  course  of  these  gentlemen  have  not  been  uniformly 
prosperous,  or  exempt  from  the  vicissitudes  of  human 
affairs.  In  1856  a  freshet  of  unexampled  severity  occurred 
in  the  South  Branch,  and  in  the  ensuing  year  another  with 
almost  equal  violence  devastated  the  West  Branch.  By 
each  of  these  the  Messrs.  Eogers  lost  about  $25,000.  They 
have  also  suffered  severely  from  fires,  particularly  in  1864, 
when  their  loss,  including  insurance,  amounted  to  $90,000. 

In  noticing  the  affairs  of  Messrs.  Rogers,  it  is  necessary 
to  state  that  the  ore  used  in  their  various  works  annually, 
is  estimated  at  23,210  tons  delivered  at  the  separating 
machine,  and  9,716  tons  drawn  from  it,  and  the  charcoal 
consumed  at  1,440,000  bushels.  Au  Sable  Forks  and 
Black  Brook  are  connected  with  Lake  Champlain  at 
Port  Kent,  by  a  plank  road.  The  former  is  situated 
seventeen  miles,  and  the  latter  four  miles  farther  from  the 
lake.  Jay  is  six  miles  from  the  Forks  by  an  earth  road. 
The  Plattsburg  and  Whitehall  rail  road,  which  is  now  in 
running  order  from  Plattsburg  to  the  Point  of  Rocks  on 


448  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX,  COUNTY. 

the  Au  Sable,  a  distance  of  twenty  miles,  has  a  depot 
within  three  miles  of  Au  Sable  Forks. 

Clintonville.  The  great  water  power  formed  by  the  Au 
Sable  river  at  Clintonville,  and  situated  about  six  miles 
above  Keeseville,  was  occupied  by  forges  early  in  the  first 
quarter  of  the  century.  The  property  passed  into  the 
possession  of  a  company  of  southern  capitalists,  incorpo 
rated  under  the  name  of  the  Peru  Iron  Company,  with  a 
capital  of  two  hundred  thousand  dollars.  Joshua  Aiken  was 
the  first  agent  of  this  company.  They  established,  at  an 
early  period,  one  of  the  most  extended  and  successful  iron 
works  in  the  state.  Nearly  fifty  years  ago  their  establish 
ment  consisted  of  a  forge  of  eighteen  fires,  which  manu 
factured  from  two  to  three  thousand  tons  of  iron  annually ; 
a  rolling  mill,  from  which  was  produced  yearly,  eighteen 
hundred  tons  of  marked  iron  and  nail  plates.  A  nail 
factory  which  fabricated  twelve  hundred  tons  of  cut  nails  ; 
a  chain  cable  factory,  a  pocket  furnace,  machine  shop, 
and  grist  mill,  all  of  which  belong  to  the  company.  The 
fabrics  of  these  works  established  a  high  reputation,  and 
were  quoted  specifically  in  the  prices  current  of  that  period. 
Their  peculiar  and  superior  qualities  were  essentially 
imparted  by  the  remarkable  properties  of  the  ores  from 
which  these  fabrics  were  produced.  The  ore  was  derived 
partially,  and  at  an  early  day,  from  two  small  beds  in  the 
vicinity,  known  as  the  Winter  and  Finch  veins ;  but  sub 
sequently,  the  works  used  exclusively,  ore  taken  from  the 
Palmer  bed  and  Arnold  Hill  mine,  but  particularly  from 
the  latter.  This  extraordinary  deposit  of  ore  was  at  that 
time,  esteemed  superior  to  any  known  to  exist  in  the 
country,  alike  in  its  magnitude  and  the  excellence  of  its 
qualities.  It  is  situated  on  lots  ISTos.  199  and  200.  Maule's 
patent  was  discovered  in  the  year  1805,  and  purchased 
from  Elisha  Winter  in  1806,  for  eight  hundred  dollars,  by 
Elisha  Arnold  and  associates.  The  mine  was  occupied 
by  four  main  veins,  from  three  to  eight  feet  in  width, 
running  parallel  to  each  other,  but  varying  decidedly  in 
the  character  and  ingredients  of  the  ore.  The  most  ex- 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  449 

tensive  and  valuable  of  these  veins  was  designated  the 
Old  blue  vein,  and  has  been  worked  to  a  depth  of  more 
than  three  hundred  feet.  The  ore  from  this  vein  first 
imparted  to  the  Peru  iron  the  high  reputation  it  has 
always  maintained.  The  blue  ore  vein  preserves  an  ave 
rage  width  of  four  to  five  feet,  sometimes  compressed  to  two 
feet,  and  again  expanding  to  eight.  The  properties  of 
these  ores,  the  great  abundance  of  the  deposits,  and  the 
unlimited  demand  for  their  consumption,  have  rendered 
this  mine  a  source  of  great  affluence,  and  several  fortunes 
have  been  realized  from  it.  It  has  been  abandoned  for 
many  years  for  practical  operation.  The  shaft  became 
filled  with  water,  and  the  machinery  deranged  and  decay 
ing.  These  circumstances  may,  to  some  extent,  be  attri 
buted  to  special  causes,  but  directly  to  the  vast  expenditure 
incident  to  excavating  and  raising  the  ore  from  the  great 
depth  to  which  the  operations  had  penetrated;  the  depres 
sion  and  fluctuations  of  the  iron  business,  and  the  enhanced 
cost  and  difficulty  of  transporting  the  crude  material  to 
market.  The  mine  has  now  passed  into  the  hands  of  iron 
manufacturers  of  Pennsylvania,  and  is  approached  to  the 
base  of  the  eminence  it  occupies,  by  a  rail  road.  The  rea 
sonable  hope  may  be  cherished  that  this  immense  fountain 
of  public  and  private  wealth  will  be  returned  to  its  former 
importance,  where  business  shall  resume  its  secure  and 
defined  channel. 

The  property  at  Clintonville  has  been  subjected  to  many 
vicissitudes  and  numerous  changes  in  interests.  At  one 
period  it  was  owned  by  Francis  Saltus  and  subsequently 
by  his  son,  but  the  works  are  now  in  extensive  and  success 
ful  operation,  controlled  by  proprietors  of  wealth  and 
enterprise  who  in  April,  1865,  were  chartered  under  the 
name  of  the  Peru  Steel  and  Iron  Company,  with  a  capital 
of  eight  hundred  thousand  dollars.  Charles  Bliven,  Esquire, 
of  New  York,  is  president  of  the  corporation,  and  John  L. 
M.  Taylor,  vice  president,  and  the  efficient  and  judicious 
general  manager  of  its  affairs  at  Clintonville.  The  pro 
ducts  manufactured  have  been  modified  under  the  present 
29 


450  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

name  and  management  of  the  company,  and  are  now  essen 
tially  restricted  to  one  branch  ;  the  fabrication  of  rolled 
and  billot  iron  calculated  for  making  cast  steel.     The  ore 
used  now  is  exclusively  excavated  from  the  Palmer  hill 
bed,  in  which  property  this  company  holds  a  title  to  three- 
eighths  interest.     The  elements  of  this  ore,  it  is  considered, 
peculiarly  adapt  the  iron   made  from  it  for  the  production 
of  steel.     The  motive  power  of  these  works,  which  occupy 
more  than  a  mile  in  length  along  the  northern  bank  of  the 
river,  is  created  by  two  dams.     The  works  consisting  of 
forges  were  originally  situated  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.     The  upper  of  these  dams  rests  upon  a  rocky  found 
ation,  and  is  a  firm  and  ponderous  structure  nearly  ver 
tical  in  form  and  crescent-shaped,  and  designed  to  resist  all 
freshets.     The  lower  dam  exhibits  an  unusual  formation. 
It  is  built  upon  a  sandy  bottom,  and  to  render  it  secure 
from  the  frequent  floods  which  are  peculiar  to  the  stream 
and  from  the  pressure  of  the  ice  often  borne  down  by  the 
current  with   immense   force,  a  broad  base  is   required. 
The  dam  is  therefore  constructed  with  two  faces,  presenting 
a  front  in  each  direction   and  at  a  small  angle.     By  this 
arrangement  a  broad  and  effective  foundation  is  attained, 
and  a  perpendicular  pressure  of  the  water  secured  which 
combine  to  support  and  strengthen  the  structure.     The 
plan  has  proved  eminently  successful. 

At  the  upper  darn  there  is  erected  a  saw  mill,  grist  mill, 
rolling  mill  and  a  forge  of  four  fires;  also  a  nail  factory 
which  formerly  contained  forty  nail  machines.  The  nail 
manufacture  was  abandoned  by  the  Peru  Iron  Company, 
one  of  the  former  proprietors  of  these  works  in  1856-57, 
from  the  fact,  that  the  superior  quality  of  their  iron  ren 
dered  it  more  profitable  to  be  sold  in  market  as  iron,  than 
when  wrought  into  nails.  The  forge  and  rolling  mill  are 
under  the  same  roof.  The  four  fires  yield  at  the  rate  of 
twenty-four  tons  of  bloomery  iron  per  week,  and  with  the 
escape  heat  from  these  fires,  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  tons 
of  iron  are  heated  for  rolling  every  twenty-four  hours. 
The  furnaces  which  are  heated  by  the  escape  heat  are 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  451 

called  gas  furnaces.  Each  one  of  these  is  attached  to 
two  of  the  forge  tires.  There  are  also  two  coal  furnaces, 
for  heating  iron  for  rolling,  in  which  bituminous  coal  is 
used.  Experience  has  proved  that  the  gas  furnaces  are  the 
most  economical,  and  for  several  years  the  coal  furnaces 
have  been  almost  abandoned.  The  rolling  mill  has  three 
trains  for  rolling  iron.  The  largest  is  a  sixteen  inch  train, 
capable  of  rolling  iron  1 J  X  J  to  4  X  1  inch  iron.  Bounds 
and  squares  from  1J  to  3  inch,  and  also  wide  band  iron. 
The  next  in  size  is  a  ten-inch  train,  from  which  are  rolled 
H.  8.  Strapes.  Rounds  and  squares  from  f  to  1J,  small 
bands  and  small  tires.  The  smallest  of  those  trains  is 
used  exclusively  for  rolling  rounds  and  squares  from  J  to 
j-J  of  an  inch. 

In  connection  with  the  lower  dam,  an  immense  forge  is 
constructed,  which  is  believed  to  be  the  most  extensive 
upon  the  continent,  and  pronounced  equally  superior  in  its 
capacity ;  and  in  the  completeness  of  its  arrangements  and 
power.  This  forge  embraces  sixteen  fires,  with  the  appro 
priate  number  of  hammers.  Its  motive  power  is  created 
by  water  conveyed  in  a  canal  nearly  half  a  mile  in  length, 
twenty-five  feet  wide  and  ten  feet  high,  to  the  summit  of 
the  embankment  formed  by  the  material  excavated.  This 
stupendous  work,  which  as  the  creation  of  private  enter 
prise  has  few  parallels,  was  constructed  in  1834  by  the 
Peru  Iron  Company.  It  is  securely  guarded  by  sluice 
ways  and  waste  gates,  and  presents  along  its  course  a  scene 
of  great  activity  and  prosperous  industry.  These  works 
produce  per  annum  from  three  thousand  to  three  thousand 
five  hundred  tons  of  iron  fabrics,  and  consume  in  their 
production  twelve  to  fourteen  thousand  tons  of  ore  and 
from  one  million  to  one  million  two  hundred  thousand 
bushels  of  charcoal.  This  is  the  principal  fuel  used,  and 
doubtless  influences  the  character  and  quality  of  the  iron 
produced.  The  charcoal  is  made  in  twenty-three  kilns 
owned  by  the  company.  Two  hundred  persons  are  usually 
engaged  about  the  works,  and  three  hundred  others  re 
ceive  employment  in  the  varied  external  operations  of  the 


452  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

company  connected  with  the  establishment,  and  used 
mainly  for  its  convenience  there  as  a  foundery ;  an  exten 
sive  wheelwright  and  blacksmith  shop.  The  company 
own  a  wide  domain  of  woodland  territory. 

Keeseville.  The  immense  hydraulic  power  afforded  by 
the  Au  Sable  river,  at  Keeseville  and  in  its  immediate  vi 
cinity  has  only  been  partially  occupied.  The  use  of  its 
full  capacity  would  create  one  of  the  most  extensive 
manufacturing  localities  in  the  state.  Commencing  at  the 
Upper  Falls  in  the  village  of  Keeseville,  and  extending  to 
Birmingham,  a  distance  by  the  stream  of  more  than  two 
miles,  four  heavy  dams  are  already  constructed,  creating  a 
vast  power  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  in  addition  to 
these,  several  other  sites  may  be  made  available,  and  by  ar 
tificial  structures  nearly  the  whole  distance  is  susceptible 
of  conversion  into  a  continuous  power,  where  the  water 
from  one  wheel  might  almost  literally  be  discharged  upon 
another. 

The  enormous  amount  of  choice  pines  which  half  a  cen 
tury  ago  abounded  in  the  region,  stimulated  the  early 
erection  of  saw  mills  on  this  site.  These  forests  have  been 
long  exhausted  and  more  extensive  mills  now  exist.  Mo 
dern  enterprise,  which  has  been  developed  with  magni 
ficent  success  upon  the  Saranac,  has  determined  that  it  is 
far  more  easy  and  economical  to  transport  logs  by  the 
agency  of  streams  from  the  wilderness  to  the  mills  and 
towards  market,  than  to  convey  the  sawed  lumber  from 
the  interior,  may  restore  to  Keeseville  its  lumber  manufac 
turing  preeminence,  with  vastly  enhanced  importance  and 
profit.  While  the  inland  territory  penetrated  by  the  Sara 
nac  has  been  to  a  large  extent  denuded  of  its  forests,  the 
timber  lands  at  the  head  waters  of  the  Au  Sable,  which 
spread  over  a  great  area,  remain  as  I  have  remarked  al 
ready,  nearly  in  their  primeval  condition.  By  the  creation 
of  artificial  facilities,  which  may  be  constructed  at  a  tri 
fling  cost  in  comparison  with  the  infinitely  valuable  results 
which  would  be  accomplished,  this  timber,  principally 
spruce  and  hemlock,  but  with  an  important  proportion  of 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  453 

pines,  might  be  rendered  accessible.  We  have  seen, that 
the  aggregate  waters  of  a  wide  mountain  region,  accumu 
late  in  the  channel  of  the  Au  Sable  and  are  discharged, 
with  rare  intervals  of  slackened  current,  by  a  rapid  and 
often  precipitous  course.  These  peculiarities  subject  this 
stream  to  frequent  and  severe  freshets,  which  although 
perilous  to  the  structures  along  its  banks,  singularly  adapt 
it  to  the  conveyance  of  logs  by  floating.  ISTo  booms  now 
exist  on  the  Main  river  which  would  interpose  obstacles 
to  this  transportation  of  the  raw  material  to  Keeseville, 
where  the  construction  of  gang  saw-mills  on  an  extended 
scale  is  now  in  contemplation.  ~No  mill  site  occurs  below 
Birmingham  upon  the  river,  but  the  project  exists  of  erect 
ing  large  mills  at  the  mouth  of  the  Au  Sable  to  be  pro 
pelled  by  steam.  What  influence  the  operation  of  the 
rail  road  in  progress  of  construction,  and  which  has  already 
reached  the  Au  Sable,  may  exert  upon  these  views  and 
calculations  can  alone  be  determined  by  the  issue.  It  is 
conceded,  I  think,  that  the  weight  and  bulk  of  lumber 
adapts  it  to  transportation  by  water  rather  than  rail  road. 
If  the  theory  is  just,  the  fact  will  to  some  extent  effect  the 
division  of  this  question.  Whatever  may  be  the  course  of 
business,  as  it  impresses  the  interests  of  localities,  we  may 
safely  calculate,  that  the  incomputable  wealth,  which  now 
slumbers  in  the  forests  upon  the  upper  waters  of  the  Au 
Sable,  will  at  an  early  period  reward  the  efforts  of  industry 
and  capital,  and  that  the  volume  of  the  Au  Sable  will  in 
some  form  be  instrumental  in  the  realization  of  this  desi 
rable  result. 

The  enterprise  of  the  pioneers  of  Keeseville  was  directed 
to  the  occupation  of  its  hydraulic  powers  by  other  manu  - 
facturing  pursuits.  Forges,  a  woolen  factory,  flouring 
mills,  a  plaster  mill,  foundery  and  various  other  minor  es 
tablishments  were  erected.  The  forges  were  soon  suc 
ceeded  by  more  extensive  and  important  iron  works. 
Two  rolling  mills  were  built  with  works  on  a  large  scale 
for  the  production  of  cut  nails  and  other  fabrics.  Each  of 
these  for  a  term  of  years  were  eminently  prosperous ;  but 


454  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

in  the  changes  of  circumstances,  and  the  revolutions  incident 
to  all  business  pursuits,  were  ultimately  suspended,  and  the 
large  property  passed  into  different  hands.  A  period  of 
severe  depression  in  the  progress  and  prosperity  of  Keese- 
ville  ensued,  but  new  and  more  valuable  interests,  which 
promise  to  be  far  more  stimulating  to  the  general  success 
of  the  region,  have  at  length  arisen  from  the  ruins  of  the 
former  occupation. 

A  company  was  formed  in  the  year  1863  with  a  capital 
of  forty  thousand  dollars,  which  was  subsequently  increased 
to  eighty  thousand,  for  the  manufacture  of  horse  shoe  nails 
by  a  machine  invented  and  patented  by  Mr.  Daniel  Dodge 
of  Keeseville.  The  success  of  the  experiment  has  been 
ample,  and  not  more  in  a  financial  aspect,  than  by  esta 
blishing  the  superior  character  of  an  engine,  which  exhibits 
a  remarkable  triumph  of  mechanical  ingenuity  and  science. 
It  transcends,  it  is  asserted,  any  agency  of  the  kind  for 
the  execution  of  its  peculiar  process,  by  the  magnitude 
and  uniformity  of  its  work,  and  the  perfect  quality  of  the 
article  it  produces.  The  immense  and  complicated  power, 
combined  with  extreme  simplicity;  the  beauty  and  pre 
cision  of  the  principle,  and  the  exactness  and  rapidity  of 
its  execution,  impart  to  this  machine  its  marked  superiority. 
Nails  formed  by  other  mechanism  often  present  equal  exter 
nal  beauty  of  appearance,  but  it  is  assumed,  that  the  force 
which  produces  the  compression  of  iron  by  the  Dodge 
machine  communicates  to  the  nail  it  forms,  solidity,  a  tena 
city  and  toughness  that  characterizes  no  other  article  of  the 
kind.  The  pressure  to  which  these  nails  are  subject  in 
their  fabrication,  so  consolidates  and  amalgamates  the 
metallic  fibres,  that  splitting  or  roughness  in  the  article  is 
deemed  almost  impossible,  while  the  extreme  care  and 
caution  exercised  in  preparing  the  nails  for  market  are 
calculated  to  prevent  any  poor  or  defective  fabrics  reaching 
the  consumer. 

A  walk  through  the  workshops,  and  an  examination  of 
the  various  processes  connected  with  the  manufacture, 
sorting  and  preparing  these  nails,  affords  a  highly  interest- 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  455 

ing  study.  Fifty  of  the  machines  are  in  operation  at  Keese- 
ville,  and  are  increased  as  rapidly  as  the  demands  of  the 
business  require.  They  are  all  constructed  at  that  place 
under  the  immediate  supervision  of  the  inventor,  and  at 
an  expense  of  $500  for  each  machine.  One  person,  usually 
a  boy,  attends  and  feeds  every  machine.  At  its  side  is 
placed  a  small  furnace,  supplied  by  mineral  coal,  in  which 
eight  or  ten  thin  iron  rods  or  strips  are  heating.  A  large 
conductor,  through  which  the  air  is  forced  from  a  reservoir 
by  mechanism,  conveys  it  to  each  furnace  by  a  small  tube, 
which  the  workman  controls  by  a  valve.  These  rods,  heated 
to  the  proper  degree,  are  successively  applied  to  the  machine, 
and  when  they  become  too  cool,  are  returned  to  the  fur 
nace  and  another  taken  from  it,  with  a  celerity  that  scarcely 
interrupts  the  revolutions  of  the  machine.  The  nails  are 
discharged  almost  uniformly  perfect  on  an  average  of  forty- 
five  per  minute.  The  article  falls  from  the  machine,  im 
pressed  with  the  precise  form  and  appearance  of  the  black 
smith's  nail  formed  by  the  most  expert  hand.  The  nails 
collected  from  the  machine  are  carried  to  another  room, 
where  they  are  singly  inspected  and  pass  through  a  process 
that  determines  their  perfect  finish.  This  duty  employs  a 
large  number  of  hands,  chiefly  boys.  When  this  operation 
is  completed,  the  nails  descend  by  a  funnel  into  a  lower 
apartment,  where  they  are  carefully  inspected  and  assorted, 
and  every  nail  in  the  slightest  degree  imperfect  is  rejected. 
Thus,  each  fabric  is  handled  twice  separately,  to  secure  and 
ascertain  its  exact  perfection.  The  assorted  nails  are  then 
placed  in  small  square  boxes,  holding  each  twenty-five 
pounds.  The  contents  of  each  box  is  accurately  weighed 
and  the  top  placed  upon  it,  to  avoid  mistakes  or  depreda 
tions. 

A  very  small  fraction  of  the  nails  is  discharged  by  the 
machine  in  an  imperfect  form,  either  from  a  deficient 
pointing  or  other  cause.  When  a  point  requires  adjust 
ing,  the  nail  is  transferred  to  another  shop,  where  it  is 
perfected  by  hand.  Such  nails  are  never  sent  into 
market,  but  are  sold  at  the  works  for  home  consumption. 


456  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

A  blacksmith's  shop  is  connected  with  the  establishment, 
in  which  the  fragments  of  the  rods  are  welded  together 
and  again  used  in  the  machine.  All  the  varied  refuse  is 
carefully  gathered  up,  cleansed  by  a  separator,  and,  until 
the  introduction  of  a  new  process,  returned  to  market. 
Another  and  adjacent  room  is  appropriated  to  the  sharpen 
ing  of  tools  and  repairing  and  adjusting  the  machines. 
The  company  own  a  saw-mill  near  the  works,  at  which, 
besides  custom  and  other  work,  the  lumber  for  construct 
ing  the  nail  boxes  is  cut.  From  the  mill  the  boards  are 
conveyed  to  a  planing  and  cutting  machine,  where  the 
materials  for  the  boxes  are  prepared.  These  materials 
are  conveyed  to  another  apartment,  in  which  the  boxes 
are  put  together  and  arranged  for  use.  The  conveyance 
of  the  iron  and  nails,  and  the  transportation  of  all  the 
materials  used  in  the  works  are  performed  by  the  teams 
and  employees  of  the  company.  Thus  by  a  wise  and 
efficient  arrangement,  every  department  of  labor  in  the 
concern  is  executed  by  the  company  itself.  An  extensive 
coal  house  is  connected  with  the  works.  The  fuel  annually 
consumed  amounts  to  about  five  hundred  tons. 

Each  machine  produces  an  average  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  pounds  of  nails  per  diem,  and  runs  only  during  day-. 
light.  A  boy  examines  and  kegs  from  one  hundred  to 
one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  daily.  The  works  yield 
about  five  hundred  tons  of  nails  per  annum,  worth  not  less 
than  $250,000.  The  best  brands  of  Norway  iron  are 
exclusively  used  in  the  manufacture  of  these  nails.  No 
American  iron  has  yet  been  produced  adapted  to  the  pur 
pose.  Intelligent  iron  manufacturers  do  not  accept  the 
theory,  that  this  impediment  is  produced  by  the  quality  of 
our  ores,  but  ascribe  it  rather  to  the  peculiar  processes 
observed  in  the  production  of  the  iron.  The  iron  is  im 
ported  from  Norway  in  bars,  rolled  into  rods  or  slits  in 
New  England,  and  in  that  shape  is  conveyed  to  the  works. 
The  company  has  recently  reorganized  a  rolling  mill, 
situated  between  Keeseville  and  Birmingham,  and  propose 
soon  to  prepare  their  own  rods  from  the  imported  Norway 
bars. 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  457 

The  boys  employed  in  these  works  earn  from  fifty  cents 
to  a  dollar  and  a  half  per  diem,  and  receive  with  all  the 
workmen  of  the  company  payment  in  money  on  every  Sat 
urday  afternoon.  It  is  pleasant  on  this  occasion  to  observe 
their  cheerful  and  contented  countenances,  when  they  ap 
proach  the  table  of  the  agent,  and  as  their  names  are  called 
from  the  pay  roll  receive  the  reward  of  their  industry  and 
steadiness.  This  scene  is  an  infinite  improvement  upon 
the  system,  which  formerly  existed  in  many  of  the  manu 
facturing  institutions  of  the  country,  by  which  the  laborers 
were  paid  in  orders  upon  a  store;  or  when  the  merchant's 
clerk  stood  ledger  in  hand  at  the  pay  desk  to  claim  and  re 
ceive  his  account  from  the  wages  of  labor.  Here  the  work 
man  is  independent  and  uncontrolled  in  using  the  fruits 
of  his  toil. 

This  company  is  incorporated  under  the  style  of  the  An 
Sable  Horse  Nail  Company,  of  which  Silas  Arnold,  Esquire, 
is  the  president,  and  Edmund  Kingsland,  Esquire,  is  the 
active  agent  and  manager.  Mr.  Dodge,  the  ingenious  in 
ventor  of  this  valuable  machine,  has  favored  me  with  the 
following  account  of  the  labors  and  trials  incurred  in  the 
progress  of  the  invention,  which  resulted  in  his  signal 
triumph.  It  will  be  read,  I  think,  with  great  interest.  "  My 
first  experiments  with  the  view  of  producing  a  machine  for 
making  horse  shoe  nails  were  made  in  1848,  with  a  model 
or  miniature  machine,  on  a  very  small  scale.  In  1849  I 
built  a  complete  machine  of  working  proportions.  It 
proved  but  a  partial  success,  producing  nails  with  great 
rapidity,  but  not  of  sufficient  uniformity  to  satisfy  con 
sumers.  A  series  of  machines  were  built  on  the  principle 
of  the  first,  and  each  was  an  improvement  on  its  predeces 
sor.  Several  of  them  were  so  far  successful  as  to  produce 
nails  of  uniform  and  satisfactory  quality  and  with  great 
rapidity ;  but  they  were  found  unprofitable  for  use,  as  the 
expense  of  the  repairs  consumed  the  profits.  At  length  in 
1854,1  abandoned  the  leading  principle  on  which  they  had 
been  constructed  and  adopted  a  new  one,  admitting' 
greater  simplicity  of  construction  and  greater  ease  in  the 
movement  of  the  parts.  On  this  principle  I  also  built  a 


458  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

series  of  machines,  with  successive  improvements,  result 
ing  about  the  close  of  1862,  in  the  perfected  machine  now 
used  by  the  Au  Sable  Horse  Nail  Company." 

A  large  economy  has  been  attained  in  the  preparation 
of  the  refuse  crops  referred  to  for  their  reproduction  into 
bars  by  the  introduction  early  in  1869  into  the  works  of  a 
powerful  hydraulic  press. 

The  foundery  at  Keeseville  formerly  transacted  a  heavy 
business.  It  frequently  executed  orders  from  California, 
New  Orleans,  and  various  sections  of  the  west.  This  ex 
tended  demand  for  its  fabrics  was  created  by  the  superior 
quality  of  the  iron  used  in  their  manufacture,  but  especially 
the  unusual  excellence  of  the  work.  The  foundery  for  a 
period,  in  common  with  the  other  iron  establishments  of 
the  place,  experienced  a  great  depression;  but  at  present 
under  the  energetic  management  of  Nelson  Kingland,  Es 
quire,  is  again  in  a  prosperous  condition.  Its  production 
the  last  year  amounted  to  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  tons 
of  castings.  The  foundery  and  machine  shop  connected 
with  it  in  the  same  period  did  a  business  of  about  thirty- 
five  thousand  dollars,  and  possess  a  capacity  for  performing 
work  to  the  amount  of  seventy-five  thousand  dollars  per 

annum. 

A  company  has  been  organized  at  Keeseville,  and  re 
cently  commenced  business  for  the  manufacture  from 
cotton  of  twine,  carpet  warp  and  wioking,  and  has  already 
in  operation  a  number  of  machines  competent  to  consume 
twelve  thousand  pounds  monthly  of  the  raw  material.  It 
is  starting  with  the  designation  of  Kingsland,  Houghton  & 
Co.,  under  the  most  favorable  auspices,  with  means  and 
facilities,  and  the  purpose  of  largely  extending  its  opera 
tions  if  the  measure  is  warranted  by  adequate  success. 

The  Messrs.  Boynton  have  also  just  erected  several 
machines  for  the  fabrication  of  cotton  hosiery.  The  move 
ment  is  experimental,  but  if  attended  with  success,  the 
business  will  become  an  important  feature  in  the  industrial 
pursuits  of  the  place.  Two  flouring  mills  are  located  on 
separated  sites  at  Keeseville,  a  plaster  mill,  planing  mill, 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  459 

furniture  and  tin  factories,  and  various  other  subordinate 
manufacturing  establishments  are  also  in  prosperous  ope 
ration.  At  the  village  of  Birmingham  a  small  part  of  its 
vast  water  power  is  occupied  by  a  paper  mill,  two  starch 
factories,  and  a  grist  mill. 

Works  are  in  progress  of  construction  by  Messrs.  Pollard 
&  Pease  in  the  vicinity  of  Keeseville,  and  near  the  vast 
kaolin  deposits  noticed  in  a  former  page  for  the  separating 
and  preparing  that  article  for  market. 

BOQUET  VALLEY. 

New  Russia  Forge.  In  the  southern  extremity  of  Eliza- 
bethtown,  and  upon  one  of  the  highest  branches  of  the 
Boquet,  where  it  almost  mingles  with  the  head  waters  of 
the  Hudson,  stands  the  New  Russia  Forge.  This  is  one  of 
the  oldest  iron  works  of  the  county,  it  having  been  erected 
about  the  year  1802.  It  has  been  repeatedly  rebuilt  and 
in  1860  received  a  thorough  reconstruction.  The  existing 
forge,  owned  by  Messrs.  E.  H.  &  H.  A.  Putnam  contains 
four  fires,  and  a  wooden  hammer  of  about  one  thousand 
eight  hundred  pounds  weight.  It  possesses  both  steam 
and  water  power.  The  ore  used,  is  principally  taken  from 
the  New  Russia  mine,  owned  by  the  company  and  situated 
half  a  mile  from  the  works.  The  forge  is  about  six  miles 
from  the  Fisher  hill  ore  bed,  from  which  it  has  obtained 
a  part  of  the  ore  worked.  Charcoal,  chiefly  made  in  closed 
kilns,  is  exclusively  consumed  in  the  works.  The  company 
own  in  the  vicinity  about  ten  thousand  acres  of  woodland. 
The  products  of  the  forge  are  slabs  for  boilerplates,  and 
blooms  adapted  to  the  fabrication  of  wire  and  steel. 
These  are  transported  by  land  carnage  to  Westport,  a  dis 
tance  of  twelve  miles  for  shipping.  A  grist  and  saw-mill 
are  also  in  operation  on  the  same  site.  In  1866,  the  forge 
consumed  300,000  bushels  of  charcoal  and  2,400  tons  of 
ore,  producing  six  hundred  and  seventy-five  tons  of  iron.1 

1  For  these  returns  I  am  indebted  to  the  valuable  work  of  Mr.  Wm.  G. 
Neilson,  to  which  I  shall  frequently  refer,  when  I  am  unable  to  procure  sta 
tistics  of  a  later  date. 


460  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Kingdom  Forge  is  situated  about  six  miles  south-east  from 
the  Court  House,  upon  Black  creek,  a  branch  of  the  Bo- 
quet.  It  was  erected  in  1825,  and  was  formerly  owned  by 
Mr.  Henry  R.  Noble.  It  has  been  enlarged  within  a  few 
years  by  the  present  proprietors,  the  Essex  and  Lake 
Champlain  Ore  and  Iron  Company,  from  two  fires,  its  ori 
ginal  capacity,  to  six  fires.  Its  supply  of  ore  is  chiefly 
derived  from  the  Burt  mine,  a  distance  of  five  miles.  It 
consumes  charcoal.  This  property  was  owned  by  the  same 
interest  as  the  Valley  Forge.  The  company  are  proprietors 
of  about  eleven  thousand  acres  of  woodland.  Two  closed 
kilns  are  appropriated  toward  the  supply  of  the  Kingdom 
forge.  These  works  consume  30,000  bushels  of  coal  and 
produced  seven  hundred  and  fifty  tons  of  iron  in  1866. 

Valley  Forge  was  erected  in  1846,  and  was  several  years 
conducted  by  Messrs.  Whallon  &  Judd.  It  stands  upon 
the  Boquet,  a  half  mile  from  the  village  of  Elizabeth  town, 
and  has  a  land  carriage  eight  miles  and  a  half  to  West- 
port.  The  premises  have  passed  through  various  transi 
tions  of  proprietorship,  and  for  the  term  the  business  has 
been  suspended,  but  has  been  recently  resumed.  It  came 
into  the  possession  of  the  Essex  and  Lake  Champlain  Ore 
and  Iron  Company  in  the  year  1864.  The  forge  contains 
six  fires  and  one  hammer,  weighing  about  eleven  thousand 
pounds.  The  blast  is  driven  by  a  horizontal  engine,  with 
a  cylinder  of  about  ten  inches  diameter  and  thirty  inch 
thick.  There  are  two  blowing  cylinders.  Steam  is  sup 
plied  by  two  boilers,  heated  by  escape  heat  from  a  part  of 
the  forges.  Its  ore  is  obtained  chiefly  from  the  Burt 
mine,  a  distance  of  about  ten  miles.  This  company  are 
the  proprietors  of  numerous  ore  beds  in  the  district.  The 
forge  consumes  charcoal  burnt  in  six  kilns  and  the  re 
mainder  in  pits,  principally  belonging  to  the  company  and 
from  its  own  woodlands.  The  works  annually  consume 
one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  bushels  of  coal  and 
yielded  in  1866,  ten  hundred  and  fifty  tons  of  iron.  They 
produce  bloom  iron,  which  is  shipped  at  Westport  to 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  461 

various  points  south  and  west.     "William  G.  Neilson,  Esq., 
is  the  resident  agent  and  manager  of  this  company. 

Westport  Forge  stands  upon  the  Boquet,  four  miles  from 
"Westport,  was  built  about  1845.  It  has  been  for  many 
years  in  the  occupation  of  Messrs.  "W.  P.  &  P.  D.  Merriam. 
It  contains  three  fires,  one  hammer  and  two  wheels.  It 
formerly  worked  Moriah  ore  transported  by  land,  from 
"Westport.  A  mine  has  been  opened  on  the  premises  of 
the  company  from  which  the  forge  is  largely  supplied. 
Charcoal  is  consumed,  and  is  principally  burnt  in  the  kilns 
of  the  company.  In  1866  this  forge  used  eighty  thousand 
bushels  of  charcoal,  and  six  hundred  and  thirty  tons  of 
ore,  producing  four  hundred  and  fifty  tons  of  iron.  Its 
products  are  carried  to  Westport  for  shipping. 

The  Slower  Forge  is  situated  in  Lewis,  upon  a  small 
branch  of  the  Boquet,  and  was  erected  about  1837.  It  was 
owned  and  worked  several  years  by  General  "William  E. 
Merriam,  and  subsequently  by  his  son,  John  L.  Merriam, 
and  still  later  by  W.  H.  Roberts.  Mr.  W.  H.  Stower 
purchased  the  property  in  the  year  1864.  The  forge  stands 
upon  an  excellent  water  power,  and  contains  three  fires, 
three  water  wheels  and  a  wooden  helve  hammer,  weighing 
about  eighteen  hundred  pounds.  The  ore  used  is  chiefly 
procured  from  Moriah,  which  in  summer  is  shipped  to 
Essex  or  Westport,  and  thence  carried  by  teams  a  distance 
of  about  eight  miles.  In  winter  it  is  transported  directly 
from  the  mines,  a  distance  of  about  twenty  miles.  Ore 
beds  have  been  discovered  in  the  town  of  Lewis,  from 
which  a  supply  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  will  be  derived. 
The  forge  consumes  charcoal  burnt  both  in  kilns,  and 
several  of  which  are  open  pits,  and  uses  about  eighty 
thousand  bushels  with  about  eight  hundred  tons  of  ore. 
It  fabricates  blooms  and  slabs,  which  are  transported  to 
Essex  for  shipping.  Its  estimated  production  annually  is 
seven  hundred  tons. 

Willxboro'  Forge  is  located  at  Willsboro'  falls  upon  the 
Boquet,  and  very  near  the  site  occupied  by  William  Gilli- 
land  for  a  saw-mill  in  1765,  which  was  supplied  for  the 


462  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

creation  of  its  motive  power  by  a  wing  dam.  The  same 
site  was  occupied  by  Higby  &  Troop  for  the  forge  erected 
in  1801.  The  property  has  been  held  by  a  succession  of 
owners.  For  a  period  it  suspended  operations.  The 
forge  was  rebuilt  in  1862,  and  with  other  improvements 
received  an  iron  roof.  It  is  owned  by  General  Belderi 
Noble,  and  is  in  the  charge  of  J.  M.  Ferris,  as  manager. 
A  large  body  of  woodland  owned  by  the  proprietors  is  ap 
propriated  for  the  supply  of  charcoal,  which  is  usually 
burnt  in  closed  kilns.  The  forge  consumes  annually  about 
three  hundred  thousand  bushels,  and  yields  twelve  hundred 
tons  of  iron.1  These  works  enjoy  peculiar  and  far  greater 
facilities  than  any  other  upon  the  waters  of  the  Boquet,  in. 
the  vast  economy  it  effects  in  the  transportation  of  ore  and 
the  shipping  of  its  fabrics.  The  Boquet  is  navigable  within 
a  short  distance  of  the  forge,  and  canal  boats  laded  with 
ore  from  Moriah  can  in  good  water  approach  within  a 
fourth  of  a  mile,  and  having  discharged  their  cargoes  are 
loaded  with  iron,  which  without  being  reshipped  is  ex 
ported  usually  to  Troy.  The  forge  contains  four  tires, 
one  iron  hammer  of  about  five  tons  weight,  and  two  wheels, 
one  each  for  the  hammer  and  bellows.  It  manufactures 
blooms  and  slabs. 

A  forge  of  two  fires  situated  on  a  branch  of  the  Boquet 
in  Lewis,  and  owned  by  A.  H.  Wilder,  was  built  in  1844, 
and  abandoned  in  1862.  Another  containing  four  fires, 
standing  on  the  Boquet  at  Whallonsburg,  and  owned  by 
Hon.  J.  S.  Whallon,  suspended  operations  in  1856.  A 
grist  and  saw-mill,  clothier  works  and  a  plaster  mill  have 
been  also  erected  at  this  place. 

Boquet  Works.  Extensive  and  important  works  embrac 
ing  a  rolling  mill  for  the  fabrication  of  bars  and  iron  plates 
from  blooms,  were  erected  about  1827  on  the  Boquet  falls, 
two  miles  and  a  half  west  of  Essex  village.  Gould,  Ross 
&  Low,  for  a  period  after  they  assumed  the  occupation, 
carried  on  a  large  and  prosperous  business,  but  the  works 

1  Rev.  A.  D.  Barber. 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  463 

were  suspended  in  the  year  1856.     A  grist  mill  and  woolen 
factory  are  in  operation  on  this  site. 

Brainards  Forges,  containing  two  or  three  fires  each, 
were  erected  in  1830  and  stood  on  Black  river,  a  few  miles 
from  the  Court  House.  They  have  been  long  abandoned. 
A  saw  mill  now  alone  occupies  this  very  fine  water  power, 
which  may  be  used  several  times  successively,  on  contigu 
ous  wheels.1 

Highland  Forge  was  located  on  Howard's  brook,  near 
Willsboro'  bay,  and  seven  miles  from  Keeseville.  It  was 
owned  and  worked  by  A.  G.  Forbes ;  built  in  1837  and 
suspended  operations  in  1857. 

West  Port  Furnace  stands  upon  the  margin  of  North 
"West  bay  and  about  one  mile  from  Westport  village.  It 
was  erected  about  the  year  1848  by  Mr.  Francis  H.  Jack 
son,  and  called  by  him  Sisco  furnace.  The  eost  of  its 
original  construction  exceeded  one  hundred  thousand 
dollars.  For  a  term  of  years  it  was  in  the  possession  of 
Hon.  G.  W.  Goff.  The  premises  are  now  owned  by  the 
Champlain  Ore  and  Furnace  Company,  but  the  works 
have  been  suspended  for  a  long  period.  The  motive  power 
of  this  furnace  was  steam,  and  its  products  pig  iron.  The 
ore  used  was  chiefly  from  the  Cheever  bed,  and  in  part 
from  a  bed  two  or  three  miles  west  of  the  village  of  "West- 
port,  and  owned  by  the  proprietors  of  the  furnace,  who 
are  also  owners  of  the  Goff  ore  bed  in  Moriah.  Mr. 
Lewis  H.  Eoe  is  superintendent  of  this  company. 

MORIAH. 

The  enterprise  of  Moriah  has  been  diverted  from  the 
manufacturing  pursuits,  which  its  magnificent  capabilities 
were  calculated  to  cherish,  by  the  more  tangible  and  certain 
remuneration  afforded  by  the  raising  and  sale  of  its  ores. 
The  works  which  do  exist,  however,  are  on  a  scale  of  great 
magnitude  and  perfection. 

1 R.  W.  Livingstone. 


4(34  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Port  Henry  Furnace.  Major  James  Dalliba,  formerly  of 
the  army,  in  connection  with  Hon.  John  D.  Dickenson  of 
Troy,  erected  the  first  furnace  at  this  place,  about  the  year 
1822.  A  notice  of  the  work  produced  by  the  earlier 
furnaces  will  strikingly  exhibit  the  vast  progress  which  a 
quarter  of  a  century  has  accomplished  in  both  the  practical 
and  scientific  operations  of  these  works.  The  furnace  of 
Major  Dalliba  yielded  a  product  of  only  fifteen  to  eighteen 
tons  of  iron  a  week,  about  one-half  of  the  yield  of  the 
present  furnace  per  day.  The  former  run  from  three  to 
six  months  for  a  blast.  The  ore  used  was  obtained  from  a 
vein  near  the  furnace,  from  another  about  three-fourths  of 
a  mile  distant  and  from  Vermont.  The  iron  made  was 
exported  to  Troy  until  1827,  when  the  production  of  pig 
metal  was  abandoned  and  the  works  were  appropriated  to 
the  manufacture  of  stoves  and  hollow  ware.  On  the 
decease  of  Major  Dalliba,  the  property  passed  into  the 
hands  of  Stephen  S.  Keyes,  who  sold  in  1844  to  Cole, 
Olcott  &  Tarbell,  and  they  transferred  it  the  succeeding 
year  to  Powell  &  Lansing.  These  proprietors  erected  a 
second  furnace  on  the  lake  shore.  In  1838,  the  title  be 
came  vested  in  Horace  Grey,  Jr.,  of  Boston,  and  was  trans 
ferred  by  him  in  1840,  to  the  Port  Henry  Iron  Company. 
Mr.  Grey  was  the  principal  stock  holder  in  this  company. 
He  leased  individually  the  furnace  property  and  the  Cheever 
ore  bed,  in  1846,  at  a  nominal  rent.  The  original  furnace 
was  demolished  and  a  new  one  built,  which  commenced 
operations  in  1847.  On  the  reverses  which  occurred  to  Mr. 
Grey  in  the  fall  of  this  year,  the  works  were  temporarily 
suspended.  Improved  intelligence  and  the  application  of 
the  hot  blast  has  gradually  augmented  the  yield  of  the 
furnace,  from  two  and  three  tons  per  day  to  ten  and  twelve 
tons  for  the  same  period. 

In  1852,  Mr.  Benjamin  T.  Reed,  of  Boston,  purchased 
all  the  property  of  the  Port  Henry  Iron  Company,  and  in 
the  following  year,  the  Cheever  ore  bed  was  transferred  to 
the  Cheever  Ore  Bed  Company,  and  the  furnaces  to  the 
Port  Henry  Furnaces.  These  were  distinct  corpora- 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  465 

tions  organized  under  the  laws  of  this  state.  The  Port 
Henry  Furnaces  company  conveyed  its  property  in  1867 
to  the  Bay  State  Iron  Company,  a  corporation  formed 
under  the  laws  of  Massachusetts,  and  doing  business  at 
South  Boston.  The  stockholders  of  both  incorporations 
were  the  same  individuals.  Under  the  latter  title  the 
business  of  the  furnace  property  is  at  this  time  conducted. 
The  officers  of  the  company  are:  Samuel  Hooper,  president; 
John  II.  Reed,  treasurer;  and  Wallace  T.  Foot,  superin 
tendent  of  the  works  at  Port  Henry.  In  1853,  the  old 
charcoal  furnaces  were  repaired  and  a  blast  anthracite  coal 
substituted,  with  water  as  the  motive  power.  The  year 
after  a  new  furnace  was  erected  on  the  margin  of  the  lake 
near  the  former  structure  of  Powell  &  Lansing.  "  This 
furnace  was  constructed  on  a  new  plan,  having  an  outer 
casing  or  shell  of  boiler  iron  rivetted  together  and  standing 
upon  plates,  supported  by  cast  iron  columns.  This  was 
the  first  erection  of  the  kind  built  in  the  country,  and  so 
far  as  I  am  aware  in  the  world ;  although  some  have  been 
constructed  in  Europe,  with  a  boiler  iron  shell  supported 
by  brick  arches.1  The  furnace  is  forty-six  feet  high,  six 
teen  feet  diameter  at  the  top  of  the  boshes,  eight  feet  at 
the  top  of  the  furnace,  and  is  blown  through  five  tuyeres, 
by  a  vertical  steam  engine  having  a  steam  cylinder  thirty 
inches  in  diameter,  six  feet  stroke,  and  a  wind  cylinder 
eighty-four  inches  diameter,  six  feet  stroke.  In  1860 
another  furnace  was  commenced,  but  not  completed  until 
1862.  This  furnace  is  propelled  by  machinery  similar  to 
the  other,  but  somewhat  enlarged  in  its  proportions  and 
power.  The  furnace  built  by  Powell  &  Lansing  was 
taken  down  in  1855,  and  that  erected  by  Gray  was  demo 
lished  in  1865. 

During  the  last  five  years,  these  furnaces  have  produced 
58,100  tons  of  pig  iron,  consuming  107,700  tons  of  coal 

'Mr.  W.  T.  Foot,  the  accomplished  manager  of  the  works,  to  whose 
courtesy  I  am  indebted  for  most  of  the  facts  on  this  subject  incorporated  in 
the  text. 

30 


466  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

and  100,800  tons  of  ore.  The  ore  used  is  chiefly  from  the 
Cheever  and  Barton  beds.  The  English  method  of  work 
ing  a  high  furnace  with  a  closed  top  has  been  recently 
adopted,  and  each  of  the  furnaces  has  been  raised  twenty 
feet,  giving  them  an  elevation  of  sixty-six  feet.  One  of 
them,  after  an  operation  of  three  months  under  this  charge 
shows  a  very  satisfactory  result  by  an  increased  production 
of  iron,  with  a  less  comsumption  of  coal  per  ton  of  iron 
made.  The  company  obtains  lime  from  a  quarry  upon  its 
own  property  a  short  distance  from  the  furnaces.  The 
anthracite  coal  is  exclusively  used,  and  is  principally  trans 
ported  in  return  boats  from  Rondout.  The  fabrics  of  the 
furnaces  are  chielly  exports  to  the  mill  of  the  company 
at  South  Boston.  A  foundery  and  repairing  shop  is 
attached  to  the  works  for  the  convenience  of  the  establish 
ment.  The  former  is  a  large  edifice  one  hundred  and 
sixty  feet.  The  last  year  the  foundery  has  made  about  two 
hundred  tons  of  castings.  A  carpenter's  shop  contiguous, 
is  worked  by  the  same  motive  power  as  the  cupola  and  in 
it  are  formed  all  the  patterns  required  in  the  works.  About 
one  hundred  and  thirty-five  men  are  usually  employed  at 
the  furnaces.  The  coal  and  cinders  are  transported  in 
hand  carts  upon  a  small  rail  road  to  and  from  the  works. 
The  latter  "are  used  for  filling  in  the  wharf  property  of  the 
company. 

Fletcherville  Furnace.  This  furnace  is  situated  seven  and 
a  half  miles  north-west  of  Port  Henry.  It  is  owned  by 
Messrs.  S.  H.  &  J.  G.  Weatherbee  &  F.  P.  Fletcher;  its 
erection  was  commenced  in  1864,  and  it  was  blown  in,  in 
August,  1865.  The  stack  is  of  stone,  and  the  boiler  house 
of  brick.  The  height  of  the  furnace  is  forty-two  feet,  and 
width  of  the  boshes  eleven  feet.  The  construction  and 
mechanism  of  this  furnace  is  somewhat  peculiar  and  com 
plicated.  As  it  is  not  my  purpose  to  present  any  scientific 
or  technical  views,  I  shall  refrain  from  an  attempt  to 
describe  it.  The  ore  used  in  the  establishment  is 
obtained  mainly  from  a  number  of  beds  owned  by  the 
company,  but  not  at  present  fully  developed,  which  are 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  467 

contiguous  to  the  furnace.  Steam  is  the  motive  power  of 
the  works,  and  charcoal  the  only  fuel  consumed.  This  is 
burnt  in  ten  large  kilns,  capable  of  containing  sixty-five 
cords  of  wood.  x  Nearly  fifty  bushels  of  charcoal  is  yielded 
in  these  kilns  by  every  cord  of  seasoned  wood  The  com 
pany  own  extensive  ranges  of  timber  land,  which  supplies 
the  material  for  the  kilns.  The  average  product  per  week 
of  this  furnace  has  been  at  some  periods  seventy-six  and  a 
half  tons  per  week.1  A  large  proportion  of  the  iron  pro 
duced  here  is  manufactured  in  the  Bessemer  works  at 
Troy.  Mr.  Thomas  F.  Weatherbee  is  the  resident  agent 
and  manager  at  this  furnace. 

Grown  Point  Iron  Company's  Furnace.  This  work  is 
situated  ten  miles  west  of  Crown  Point  landing,  and  is 
owned  by  that  company,  consisting  of  J.  &  T.  Hammond 
&  E.  S.  Bogue.  A  furnace  was  built  on  this  site  in  1845, 
was  burnt  down  in  1865,  and  immediately  erected  anew. 
It  is  forty-two  feet  high,  and  nine  feet  across  the  boshes. 
It  is  a  charcoal  blast  furnace,  the  escape  heat  being  used 
for  generating  steam,  for  power  for  blast,  stamping,  saw 
ing  coal  brands  and  grinding  feed.  The  furnace  consumes 
6,500  tons  of  ore  and  650,000  bushels  of  charcoal,  which 
yield  3,500  tons  of  pig  metal.  In  the  last  eight  years  the 
furnace  has  not  run  more  than  three-fourths  of  the  time, 
owing  to  the  insufficient  supply  of  fuel.  The  charcoal  is 
chiefly  burnt  in  kilns.  The  ore  used  is  taken  from  the 
bed  owned  by  the  company,  situated  about  one  mile  from 
the  works,  and  the  lime  is  procured  from  their  own  quarry 
about  the  same  distance.  This  furnace  has  been  pecu 
liarly  successful,  both  in  the  manner  of  its  operation  and 
the  quality  of  iron  it  produces.  Since  the  establishment 
of  the  Bessemer  steel  works  at  Troy,  a  large  portion  of  the 
iron  from  this  furnace  has  been  purchased  by  that  institu 
tion.  The  harder  and  higher  qualities  of  this  iron  secure 
a  constant  market  from  the  manufacturers  of  malleable 

1  Mr.  Neilsoris  report. 


468  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

iron.  For  their  use  it  is  esteemed  an  eminently  desirable 
material. 

In  approaching  this  furnace,  then  owned  by  Hammond 
&  Co.,  in  1852,  I  observed  the  road  formed  for  some  dis 
tance  by  a  very  beautiful  material,  exhibiting  a  surface 
soft  and  lustrous,  and  glowing  in  every  shade  and  tint. 
This  substance  was  the  concretion  of  the  slag  or  cinders 
of  the  furnace.  When  gushing  from  the  stack  in  fusion, 
it  will  form  and  draw  out,  by  a  wire  thrust  into  the  boil 
ing  mass,  an  attenuated  glass  thread  the  entire  length  of 
the  furnace,  a  distance  of  sixty  feet.  The  glass  presents 
the  most  delicate  and  diversified  coloring;  although  com 
bined  in  the  eruption  from  the  furnace  with  extraneous 
properties.  Thus  beautiful  in  its  crude  and  adulterated 
condition,  may  not  this  substance,  purified  and  refined  by 
science,  be  rendered  subservient  to  the  arts  ? 

Irondale  Iron  Works  are  situated  six  miles  west  of  the 
lake,  and  upon  Putman's  creek,  which  affords  the  motive 
power.  The  forge  which  now  contains  four  fires,  one 
wooden  twelve  hammer,  weighing  one  thousand  eight 
hundred  pounds,  and  two  wheels,  was  erected  in  1828. 
It  is  at  present  owned  by  Penfield,  Harwood  &  Co.  The 
forge  consumes  charcoal,  which  is  principally  burnt  in 
covered  kilns,  about  four  miles  from  the  works  in  the 
west  part  of  Ticonderoga.  Ore  from  the  bed  of  the  com 
pany  located  about  five  miles  from  the  works,  is  used  in 
the  forge.  It  manufactures  blooms  and  bars.  The  iron 
made  in  this  forge  has  established  the  highest  reputation. 
This  statement  is  sustained  by  the  fact  that  in  1829,  the 
company  received  an  order  from  the  government  for  a 
large  quantity  of  their  iron  to  be  fabricated  into  chain 
cables.  It  is  extensively  used  for  the  fabrication  of  fine 
ware,  and  at  Pittsburg  it  is  used  for  making  cast  steel. 
The  company  have  a  separator  near  their  works,  in  which 
the  ore  is  prepared  for  the  forge.  It  is  stated  that  two 
tons  of  separated  ore  will  yield  a  ton  of  iron.  The  annual 
amount  manufactured  at  this  forge  is  about  five  hundred 
tons.  There  are  a  saw  mill  and  grist  mill  standing  a 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  469 

few  rods  below  the  iron  works,  and  owned  by  the  pro 
prietors.1 

The  other  minor  industrial  pursuits  of  Crown  Point 
embrace,  at  the  centre  village,  three  miles  from  the  lake, 
a  tannery,  woolen  factory,  grist  mill,  saw  mill,  tub  and 
barrel  factory,  and  wheelwright  shop;  one  mile  below 
are  a  sash  and  door  factory,  and  a  pail  and  tub  factory ; 
still  nearer  the  lake  are  a  grist  and  saw  mill,  and  wheel 
wright  shop.  All  these  works  stand  upon  Putnam's 
creek,  a  small  stream  I  have  already  described. 

TlCONDEROGA. 

Horicon  Iron  Company.  This  forge  was  erected  by  the  Ti- 
conderoga  Iron  Company,  in  1864,  under  the  direction  of 
Col.  W.  E.  Calkins.  It  is  a  very  superior  forge,  and  is  es 
teemed  equal  to  any  in  northern  New  York.  It  is  built  of 
wood  and  roofed  with  slate,  and  contains  six  fires  with  a 
capability  of  working  twelve.  It  has  two  wooden  helve 
hammers  weighing  about  twenty-seven  hundred  pounds. 
"  The  blowing  is  performed  by  water  power.  A  forty-eight 
inch  Chapman  wheel  is  used.  There  are  two  blast  cylinders 
of  five  feet  in  diameter  with  five  feet  stroke."  This  forge, 
which  is  supplied  by  the  water  that  forms  its  motive  power, 
by  a  tube  four  hundred  feet  long,  and  about  six  feet  in  dia 
meter  stands  at  the  Lower  Falls  about  two  miles  from  the 
steam  boat  landing,  and  at  the  head  of  the  navigation  acces 
sible  to  canal  boats  from  Lake  Champlain.  These  boats 
may  moor  directly  alongside  of  the  works  for  discharging 
and  loading.  The  company  own  large  tracts  of  woodland 
on  the  shores  of  Lake  George.  The  wood  is  transported 
on  barges,  which  are  towed  by  a  small  tug,  to  the  foot  of 
the  lake,  where  it  is  burnt  into  charcoal  in  five  extensive 
kilns,  capable  of  burning  sixty-five  cords  each.  The  char 
coal  is  carted  a  distance  of  about  two  miles  to  the  forge. 
The  ore  now  used,  although  the  company  owns  extensive 
mineral  property,  is  principally  shipped  from  Port  Henry 

1 C.  Fenton. 


470  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

and  landed  at  the  works.  A  separator  is  erected  near  the 
forge.  The  product  of  the  works,  which  was  bloom  iron, 
in  1865,  was  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  tons;  in  1866, 
about  three  hundred  ;  but  at  present  the  forge  is  not  in 
operation.1 

A  cupola  furnace  was  erected  on  the  lower  falls  in  1832 
by  John  Porter  &  Son,  and  continued  until  recently,  in  the 
occupation  of  the  same  family.  It  is  now  owned  by 
Clark,  Strain  &  Hooper.  The  furnace  and  machine  shop 
connected  with  it  fabricates  abont  eight  thousand  dollars 
worth  of  agricultural  implements,  stoves,  mill  irons  and 
general  work  adapted  to  home  consumption. 

The  census  returns  of  1865  report  three  woolen  facto 
ries  in  the  county.  The  most  important  of  these  is  the 
works  of  Messrs.  Treadway,  situated  on  the  lower  falls  in 
Ticonderoga.  This  factory  embraces  all  the  modern  im 
provements,  and  produces  work  of  the  highest  quality.  It 
is  at  this  time  performing  an  extensive  and  prosperous 
business,  but  possessing  an  unemployed  capacity  of  execut 
ing  very  large  operations. 

American  Graphite  Company.  The  business  conducted  by 
this  company  is  rare  and  of  peculiar  interest.  The  vast 
deposits  of  plumbago  or  black  lead,  in  this  vicinity  attracted 
early  attention  to  its  manufactures.  In  1832,  William. 
Stuart  and  Nathan  Delano  commenced  mining  and  pre 
paring  the  article  for  market.  The  former  in  connection 
with  his  sons  maintained  the  business  to  a  late  period. 
Appollos  Skinner  engaged  in  it  in  1833.  He  was  suc 
ceeded  by  Messrs.  Ives  &  Arthur.  They  soon  after  con 
structed  separate  works.  The  business  in  Ticonderoga  is 
now  in  the  exclusive  control  of  the  American  Graphite 
Company.  They  have  erected  a  large  and  expensive  mill, 
which  is  worked  night  and  day,  and  produces  abont  five 
hundred  tons  of  black  lead  annually.  The  native  impu 
rities  of  the  ore  are  separated  by  an  ingenious  process 
possessed  by  the  company.  About  sixty  men  are  employed 

1  W.  G.  Neils&n.    A.  Weed,  and  H.  G.  Burleigh  &  Bro. 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  471 

in  the  mines  and  works  of  this  concern.  The  article  pro 
duced  is  of  very  superior  quality,  and  is  largely  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  crucibles.  Mr.  William  Hooper  is  superin 
tendent  of  the  company  at  Ticonderoga.1  About  the  year 
1818,  Guy  0.  Baldwin  introduced  the  process  of  grinding 
the  plumbago  in  millstone  with  iron  ore.  Mr.  Baldwin 
subsequently  invented  a  method  of  manufacturing  crayons 
and  pencil  points,  from  this  material.  He  erected  a  factory 
for  the  purpose  of  fabricating  these  articles,  which  was 
worked  many  years.  This  manufacture  at  Ticonderoga  is 
now  discontinued.2  The  amount  of  lumber  at  present 
cut  in  this  town,  is  computed  at  about  five  hundred  thou 
sand  feet  annually. 

THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  HUDSON. 

The  head  waters  of  the  Hudson  pervade  every  section 
of  the  south-western  towns  of  Essex  county,  and  furnish  an 
immense  water  power.  The  mountains  bear  a  limitless 
supply  of  fuel,  and  throughout  the  territory  the  presence  of 
iron  ore  is  manifested  by  the  clearest  indications  which 
research  constantly  corroborates.  All  these  advantages 
should  tend  to  the  creation  of  much  more  extended  manu 
facturing  occupations  than  now  exist,  but  a  remoteness 
from  market,  and  the  absence  of  appropriate  artificial 
communication  have  impeded  the  development  of  the  vast 
natural  resources  of  the  district.  A  new  era  is  dawning 
upon  this  seclusion,  and  very  soon  enterprise  and  improve 
ment  will  awaken  the  dormant  energies  of  these  valleys  and 
mountains.  The  expense  of  transportation  to  Crown  Point, 
a  distance  from  the  nearest  point  of  about  nineteen  miles, 
over  a  difficult  route,  is  highly  onerous,  but  at  present,  the 
fabrics  of  the  Schroon  have  no  shorter  or  more  direct  route 
to  market.  The  rail  road  already  constructed  to  Warrens- 
burgh,  will  soon,  it  is  claimed,  reach  the  confines  of  Essex 
county. 

1  Alfred  Weed.    Messrs.  Burleigh.        2  Cook,  Weed  and  Burleigh, 


472  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Schroon  River  Forge  stands  upon  a  branch  of  the  Hudson 
twenty-four  miles  south-west  from  the  village  of  Elizabeth- 
town.  It  was  built  in  1857  by  Mr.  Jacob  Parmerter,  and  was 
operated  by  E.  B.  Walker  &  Co.,  with  which  firm  he  was 
for  a  term  associated.  It  became  the  property  of  Mr.  John 
Roth  in  1861.  It  has  two  fires,  a  hammer  of  about  eighteen 
hundred  pounds  weight,  and  two  wheels.  One  grist  and 
one  sawT  mill  occupy  the  same  dam.  A  little  village, 
marked  by  the  usual  appliances  of  manufacturing  hamlets, 
has  sprung  up  around  these  works.  The  ore  used  is  ob 
tained  from  the  Norway  bed  near  Paradox  lake,  and  some 
portions  from  the  Moriah  beds.  Three  closed  kilns  are 
situated  near  the  forge  and  in  the  midst  of  an  inexhaustible 
supply  of  wood.  The  works  produce  blooms,  billots  and 
slabs. 

Head  of  Paradox  Forge  is  located  near  Paradox  lake ; 
was  built  in  1864,  and  is  owned  by  John  Roth,  the  pro 
prietor  of  the  above.  This  forge  has  contained  only  two 
fires,  but  a  third  is  now  being  introduced.  It  has  one 
hammer  and  one  wheel,  and  is  principally  supplied  with  ore 
from  the  Roth  or  Norway  vein.  The  charcoal  consumed 
in  these  works  is  made  in  pits  at  the  forge.  Three  hundred 
bushels  of  this  coal  is  required  to  produce  one  ton  of  iron. 
The  two  forges  of  which  Mr.  Roth  is  the  proprietor,  are 
embraced  in  the  same  general  system  of  operations.  He 
esteems  the  iron  produced  in  these  works  from  the  Norway 
ore  of  unsurpassed  excellence,  possessing  in  its  qualities  an 
assimilation  to  the  fabrics  of  Russia  and  Norway.  Its  rare 
properties,  it  is  pronounced,  are  recognized  in  market  and 
control  maximum  prices.  He  now  manufactures  finished 
billots,  which  are  sent  to  Pittsburg  for  the  fabrication  of 
steel  and  other  purposes.  These  forges,  with  their  increased 
facilities  and  power,  it  is  anticipated,  will  possess  a  capacity 
of  yielding  a  thousand  tons  of  iron  annually,  produced  in 
1866  five  hundred  and  fifty  tons.  Two  forges,  the  Dead 
Water  Iron  Works  and  the  North  Hudson  Iron  Works 
situated  in  the  town  of  North  Hudson, 'were  formerly  owned 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  473 

by  the   Hon.   James   S.   Whallon,   but   have   long  been 
abandoned. 

The  Minerva  Iron  Company  have  commenced  measures 
for  the  establishment  of  a  first  class  forge  in  that  town, 
and  have  already  expended  a  large  amount  in  the  scheme. 
The  works  are  incomplete,  being  not  more  than  half 
finished.  Castings  and  other  materials  for  the  construc 
tion  of  the  forge,  are  already  upon  the  ground.  The  forge 
is  designed  to  contain  eight  fires,  with  steam  as  a  motive 
power.  It  is  located  about  two  and  a  half  miles  from 
Olmstead  hill,  and  a  little  more  than  six  miles  from  the 
projected  rail  road  track  at  Birds  Pond  Falls.  These 
measures  are  guided  by  a  powerful  and  energetic  company, 
and  must  exert  a  most  auspicious  influence  upon  the 
development  and  prosperity  of  that  section  of  the  county. 

TANNERIES. 

A  number  of  works  devoted  to  the  manufacturing  of 
the  different  descriptions  of  leather  exist  in  various  sec 
tions  of  Essex  county.  These  are  chiefly  supplied  with 
the  raw  material  by  the  hides  of  animals  furnished  from 
the  district.  In  the  year  1864,  two  thousand  one  hundred 
and  forty-three  neat  cattle,  and  two  thousand  one  hundred 
and  fifty-four  sheep  were  slaughtered  in  the  county, 
besides  the  skins  of  other  animals  and  those  dying  from 
disease  or  accident.  In  the  towns  of  Schroon,  Minerva 
and  North  Hudson,  this  business  is  now  the  predominant 
and  a  highly  important  industrial  pursuit.  The  vast  hem 
lock  forests,  which  spread  over  that  region,  afford  an 
abundant  and  accessible  material  for  these  works.  It  is 
rare,  in  manufacturing  economics,  that  a  raw  material  so 
valuable  as  the  hemlock  bark,  can  be  procured  not  only 
without  -detriment  to  another  substance,  with  which  it  is 
connected,  but  that  the  process  essentially  enhances  the 
value  of  the  latter.  Such,  in  these  forests,  is  literally  the 
fact  in  reference  to  this  bark.  The  logs,  when  cut  for 
market,  are  stripped  of  their  bark  and  relieved  of  its  heavy 
weight,  they  are  more  easily  transported,  the  floating  is 


474  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

facilitated,  and  the  timber  preserved  from  decay  and  the 
depredations  of  insects.  By  a  judicious  management,  the 
hemlock  of  these  forests  will  be  adequate  to  the  supply  of 
bark  to  all  the  tanneries  of  the  district  through  a  series  of 
years. 

The  Burharis  Tannery  is  situated  upon  a  small  branch 
of  the  Schroon  river,  and  in  the  town  of  North  Hudson. 
The  original  works  were  erected  by  Erastus  B.  Potter,  and 
purchased  about  the  year  1859  by  the  present  proprietor, 
Edgar  W.  Burhans,  who  has  through  large  additions  and 
improvements,  rendered  it  one  of  the  most  complete  tan 
neries  in  northern  New  York.  It  has  the  capacity  of  tan 
ning  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  thousand  sides  of  sole 
leather  annually.  It  is  chiefly  propelled  by  a  steam  engine 
of  forty  horse  power  for  grinding  bark,  for  pumping  and 
heating  the  liquor,  and  with  steam  for  steeping  the  bark. 
Spent  tan  supplies  the  fuel  for  running  the  engine.  The 
works  yield  a  sufficient  material  for  the  purpose,  and  thus 
secures  great  economy  in  the  saving  of  wood.  The  rolling 
machine  is  moved  by  water  power.  The  hides  manufac 
tured  in  the  works  are  principally  South  American.  They 
are  purchased  in  New  York,  and  from  thence  shipped  to 
Crown  Point.  The  leather  produced  is  transported  to 
Crown  Point,  a  distance  of  nineteen  miles  from  the  tan 
nery.  The  hides  are  conveyed  from  the  landing  to  the 
works  by  the  same  route.  From  twenty  to  thirty  men  are 
occupied  about  the  works  and  a  large  additional  number 
are  employed  both  summer  and  winter,  in  lumbering,  in 
peeling  and  transporting  bark,  and  drawing  logs  by  sleigh 
ing  to  the  Schroon  river,  an  important  tributary  of  the  Hud 
son,  by  which  they  are  floated  to  Glen's  Falls  and  Sandy  Hill 
to  be  manufactured  into  lumber  for  the  southern  market. 
All  the  tanneries  pursue  the  same  system.  In  the  efficient 
management  of  Mr.  Burhans,  the  business  of  this  establish 
ment  is  very  extensive  and  equally  prosperous.1  Schroon 
Lake  tannery,  was  erected  in  1852,  by  Lorenzo  Hall,  and 


1  Jo7ui, 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  475 

is  now  owned  by  Milton  Sawyer  of  Glen's  Falls.  It  is 
situated  on  a  small  brook  about  one  mile  west  of  Schroon 
lake,  and  twenty -five  miles  west  of  Lake  Champlain. 
The  capital  employed  in  these  works  is  about  ten  thousand 
dollars.  This  tannery  is  capable  of  producing  about  six 
teen  thousand  sides  per  .year,  and  consumes  about  one 
thousand  five  hundred  cords  of  bark. 

Schroon  Tannery  stands  on  Schroon  lake,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  stream  just  mentioned,  and  was  erected  in  1861 
by  William  C.  Potter  and  Daniel  Wyman.  After  several 
transfers  the  title  of  the  .property  is  now  invested  in  Mr. 
Gridley  T.  Thayer.  This  tannery  manufactures  about 
one  hundred  tons  of  leather  per  annum. 

Wickham  Tannery  is  a  small  establishment  occupying  a 
site  at  the  mouth  of  the  same  stream,  and  opposite  to  the 
Schroon  tannery.  It  is  owned  by  Mr.  Benjamin  Wick- 
ham,  and  is  used  exclusively  for  the  manufacture  of  upper 
leather. 

Hoffman  Tannery  was  erected  by  Bracket  &  Boyle,  in 
1856J  but  is  now  owned  by  Mr.  Milton  Sawyer.  It  is 
situated  about  six  miles  west  of  his  Schroon  lake  tannery, 
and  about  thirty  miles  from  Lake  Champlain.  It  pos 
sesses  the  capacity  of  tanning  about  one  thousand  sides,  and 
consumes  nine  hundred  cords  of  bark  yearly.  Mr.  Sawyer 
is  engaged  in  erecting  a  new  and  extensive  tannery  on 
the  branch  in  the  north  part  of  Schroon.  Sawyer  & 
Mead  are  now  building  a  first  class  tannery  on  the  west 
branch  of  the  Schroon  river,  about  three  miles  from  the 
state  road.  It  is  two  hundred  and  sixty-three  by  forty 
feet;  will  be  capable  of  tanning  from  two  hundred  and 
fifty  to  three  hundred  tons  of  leather  per  annum,  and  will 
consume  yearly  about  three  thousand  cords  of  bark. 

I  am  only  able  to  refer,  among  the  industrial  pursuits 
of  this  district,  to  a  large  work  situated  on  Mill  creek, 
east  of  Schroon  lake,  and  owned  by  Messrs.  Frazier, 
Major  &  Co.,  of  New  York,  which  is  reported  to  consume 
fifteen  hundred  cords  of  bark  yearly.  Numerous  and 
very  extensive  tanneries  are  located  in  the  northern  sec- 


476  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

tious  of  Warren  county,  which  are  largely  supplied  with 
bark  from  Essex  county. 

The  Olmsteadville  Tannery,  in  the  town  of  Minerva,  large 
and  valuable  works,  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  the  year 
1867.  A  part  of  the  structures  are  still  standing,  and 
now  owned  by  Messrs.  Frazier,  Major  &  Co.  Its  corre 
spondent  estimates  the  bark  formerly  consumed  by  this 
tannery,  at  five  thousand  cords  per  annum.  The  materials 
intended  for  the  Olmsteadville  works,  is  now  transported  to 
the  works  of  the  same  proprietors  at  Pottersville,  Warren 
county.  The  same  authority  states  that  the  various  tan 
neries  owned  by  this  company,  requires  the  bark  afforded 
by  twenty  thousand  logs  yearly. 

A  competent  authority  computes  the  bark  used  in  other 
tanneries  at  from  ten  thousand  to  fifteen  thousand  cords 
annually,  and  that  the  process  of  peeling,  prepares  from  one 
hundred  thousand  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  logs 
for  the  mills  at  Glen's  Falls,  Sandy  Hill  and  Fort  Edward.1 

Shipyards.  The  large  number  of  vessels  of  various  descrip 
tions  employed  in  the  navigation  of  Lake  Champlain, 
requires  the  labors  of  numerous  ship  yards,  for  their  con 
struction  and  repairing.  Of  these,  Essex  county  has  its 
proportion.  This  business  at  one  time  was  carried  on  at 
Willsboro'  to  a  considerable  extent,  the  estuary  of  the 
Boquet  presenting  a  favorable  location  for  the  purpose. 
In  the  village  of  Essex,  Hoskins,  Ross  &  Co.,  have  esta 
blished  a  commodious  yard  for  boat  building  and  repairing, 
with  which  is  connected  a  steam  saw  mill,  and  shingle 
planing  mill,  with  a  grinding  attachment  and  carriage 
factory.2  Since  the  first  occupation  by  France,  Ticon- 
deroga  has  been  a  conspicuous  point  at  which  boats  and 
vessels  navigating  the  lake  have  been  built  and  equipped. 
To  provide  materials  for  this  purpose,  was  a  prominent 
motive,  for  the  erection  by  the  French,  of  the  saw  mills  at 
the  falls.  The  numerous  fiotillas  which  traversed  the  lakes 
at  different  periods,  bearing  hostile  armies,  were  largely 

1  Mr.  John  Lloth.        2  Mr.  John  Roys. 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  477 

constructed  at  Ticonderoga.  Amherst  paused  here,  while 
awaiting  the  building  and  preparation  of  a  fleet  for  the 
invasion  of  Canada.  The  fleet  of  Arnold,  with  which  he 
combated  Garleton,  was  chiefly  constructed  at  this  point. 
Since  the  opening  of  the  Champlain  canal,  boat  building 
has  been  the  prominent  business  occupation  of  Ticonderoga. 
Mr.  Henry  Cassey  owns  a  ship  yard  at  the  Lower  falls, 
where  a  large  number  of  first  class  canal  boats  are  built 
yearly.  Two  other  yards  in  the  town  are  carrying  on  a 
regular  business,  in  this  industry.  During  the  last  ten 
years  an  average  often  boats,  of  one  hundred  tons  burthen 
each,  have  been  built  in  these  yards  annually.1  Another 
large  ship  yard  is  in  operation  at  Crown  Point. 


AGRICULTURE. 

In  describing  the  topographical  features  and  arrange 
ment  of  this  county,  in  the  preceding  pages,  1  have 
sufficiently  noticed  its  agricultural  capabilities,  and  the 
soil  and  climate  of  its  various  districts.  The  same  transi 
tions  in  its  agricultural  progress  have  marked  every  section 
of  this  county.  The  natural  fertility  of  the  soil,  when  first 
opened  to  cultivation,  yielded  abundant  harvests;  injudi 
cious  tillage  gradually  exhausted  its  productive  elements; 
the  cause  which  tended  to  these  results  ceased;  new 
interests  in  the  management  of  the  land  were  excited,  and 
a  general  improvement  in  the  farms  was  produced  by  an 
ameliorated  system  of  husbandry.  The  county  still  ex 
hibits  these  various  phases  of  its  agriculture.  Some  farms 
are  just  emerging  from  the  primeval  wilderness;  some  are 
impoverished  and  exhausted  ;  others  are  commencing  the 
process  of  renovation ;  while  many  others  have  attained  a 
degree  of  improved  culture  and  fertility,  scarcely  exceeded 
by  any  portion  of  the  state. 

1  Alfred  Reed.    E.  G.  Burleigh  &  Bro. 


478  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

The  lumber  business  in  this  as  in  every  region,  appro 
priate  to  its  pursuit,  captivated  the  mind  of  the  pioneer,  and 
allures  him  from  other  occupations.  The  winter  was  de 
voted  to  this  employment.  Every  product  of  the  farm 
calculated  to  return  fertilizing  elements  to  sustain  and  pro 
mote  its  productiveness,  was  borne  into  the  forests  and 
there  consumed.  At  the  approach  of  spring,  the  settler 
returned  to  his  farm,  himself  and  his  team,  prostrated  by 
the  severe  labors  of  the  winter,  and  illy  prepared  to  perform 
the  recurring  duties  which  pressed  upon  him.  lie  con 
ducts  his  fanning  operations  imperfectly  and  without  skill. 
He  has  no  deposits  of  manure  to  apply  to  his  wasting  soil. 
The  earth,  by  constant  tillage,  without  renovation,  becomes 
impoverished.  Each  succeeding  year  witnesses  a  decrease 
in  the  harvest.  The  land,  exhausted  by  this  improvident 
management,  is  denounced  worthless  in  its  soil,  and  with 
out  fertility,  and  abandoned  to  briers  and  desolation,  or  is 
sacrificed  to  some  shrewd  purchaser,  and  its  owner  emi 
grates  to  new  scenes,  to  pass  through  the  same  alterations. 
In  this  stage  of  society,  agriculture  is  the  secondary  and 
subordinate  occupation. 

The  lumbering  business  closed,  the  farmer  resumes  his 
first  duties,  and  yields  to  the  land  the  labor  and  care  re 
quired  for  its  successful  cultivation.  In  a  manufacturing 
district,  and  such  is  preeminently  Essex  county,  the  team 
ing  upon  the  road,  which  abstracts  so  much  of  the  time  of 
the  farmer,  and  the  fertilizing  riches  of  the  farm,  from  this 
land,  exercises  a  similar,  although  far  less  disastrous  effect, 
upon  its  agricultural  prosperity.  Other  causes  of  the  slow 
progress  in  the  agricultural  improvement  of  this  county 
are  suggested  by  an  intelligent  correspondent,1  in  reference 
to  a  single  town  but  applicable  to  all.  "  Conflicting  titles 
have  cast  a  shade  over  some  large  tracts,"  and  in  others 
"  much  of  the  land  has  been  occupied  under  contracts,  in 
their  terms  liable  to  constant  forfeiture."  Tenures  of  pro- 


1  C.  Fenton,  Esq. 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  479 

perty  so  frail  and  contingent  in  every  region,  paralyze  the 
efforts  of  industry  and  enterprise. 

The  early  settlers  relied  chiefly  for  pasturage  and  winter 
fodder  upon  the  wild  grasses  and  herbage,  bountifully 
supplied  by  the  beaver  meadows,  the  marshes  and  glades 
of  the  forests.  The  indigenous  grasses  of  this  region  are 
very  numerous,  and  many  of  them  highly  nutritious  and 
valuable.  Several  varieties  of  the  ferns,  brakes  and  rushes 
afford  excellent  hay,  particularly  for  sheep.  The  instincts  of 
the  deer  indicate  to  the  pioneer  the  most  useful  of  these 
resources. 

I  hesitate  to  decide,  whether  I  am  authorized  in  classing 
the  white  clover,  trifolium  repens,  with  the  indigenous 
plants  of  this  region.  It  is  certain  that  it  soon  appears,  by 
a  spontaneous  growth  in  every  opening  of  the  forest,  and 
upon  soils  of  sand  and  gravel  formation.  Where  gypsum 
has  been  applied,  or  sheep  have  ranged,  U  is  immediately 
introduced,  forming  a  massive  sward,  which  constitutes  a 
most  important  basis  for  future  tillage.  The  presence  of  a 
white  clover  turf  uniformly  secures  on  sandy  soils  an  excel 
lent  corn  crop  with  an  application  of  plaster. 

Wheat.  For  a  series  of  years  succeeding  the  first  occupa 
tion  of  the  county,  wheat  was  the  predominant  crop, 
particularly  in  that  section  of  it  which  lies  upon  Lake 
Champlain.  The  average  yield  on  new  land  was  about 
twenty-five  bushels  to  the  acre.  This  culture  gradually 
declined,  under  the  effects  of  a  change  of  seasons,  the 
exhaustion  of  the  quality  of  the  soil  adapted  to  the  produc 
tion  of  wheat,  and  the  ultimate  infliction  of  the  wevil  and 
rust.  It  was  virtually  abandoned,  until  the  introduction 
of  the  Black  Sea  wheat,  which  gave  it  a  new  and  successful 
impulse.  The  tea  wheat  and  various  other  spring  varieties 
have  been  the  successive  favorites,  while  the  general  cul 
ture  of  wheat  has  been  largely  extended.  "Winter  wheat  is 
now  largely  cultivated. 

Rye,  in  several  towns  of  Essex  county,  was  formerly  the 
predominant  crop.  It  is  now  very  generally  abandoned 
as  a  prominent  cereal  except  upon  light  and  gravelly  soils. 


480  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

Rye  is  seldom  used  as  an  article  of  human  aliment,  and 
in  the  absence  of  distilleries,  is  chiefly  cultivated  for  ani 
mal  food.  The  straw  is  esteemed  valuable  for  that  pur 
pose,  and  when  cut  is  peculiarly  esteemed  for  horse  fodder 
combined  with  heavy  grain. 

Oats.  The  aggregate  produced  in  Essex  county  is  very 
large.  It  is  cultivated  in  every  description  of  soil  and  in 
every  section  of  the  county.  The  heaviest  crops  I  have 
examined  were  raised  in  the  new  openings  of  the  forests, 
upon  the  slopes  of  the  Adirondacs.  The  cultivation  of 
oats,  in  the  elevated  town  of  Newcomb  has  been  singularly 
successful. 

Peas  are  cultivated  to  some  extent,  and  are  highly  es 
teemed  as  a  renovating  and  subduing  crop,  and  are  espe 
cially  efficient  and  useful,  in  the  extirpation  of  weeds  and 
bushes  upon  new  lands.  Peas  are  regarded  as  a  valuable 
substitute  for  corn  in  making  pork. 

Barley.  The  culture  of  this  grain  has  largely  increased 
in  the  county  and  with  favorable  results. 

Beans  were  formerly  raised  only  in  connection  with 
corn,  but  recently  the  great  demand  for  the  article,  at  en 
hanced  prices,  has  largely  stimulated  its  more  extended 
cultivation. 

Buckwheat  and  Indian  wheat,  especially  the  former,  are 
largely  cultivated  in  the  county,  although  many  farmers 
deprecate  the  husbandry  as  injudicious  and  improvident. 
Both  are  used  extensively  for  hog  feeding,  ground  or 
boiled.  Buckwheat,  floured  at  the  local  mills,  is  exported 
in  a  large  amount,  to  the  eastern  and  southern  markets. 

Potato.  This  crop  has  attained  great  prominence  in 
the  agriculture  of  the  county.  The  prevalence  of  the  dis 
ease,  which  impaired  and  often  nearly  suspended  the  culti 
vation  of  the  potato,  produced  an  entire  change  in  the 
tillage  connected  with  it.  Heavy,  damp  and  highly 
manured  lands,  which  once  were  deemed  indispensable  to 
the  successful  cultivation  of  the  potato,  have  been  aban 
doned,  and  light  gravelly  sandy  soils  have  been  substituted. 
Green  unfermented  manures  are  considered  unsafe,  and 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  481 

charcoal,  lime,  ashes,  plaster  and  special  fertilizers,  are  now 
generally  in  use.  The  potatoes  produced  in  this  district 
are  of  the  choicest  quality.  Of  late  they  have  been  less 
exported  than  some  years  ago,  when  from  a  single  wharf 
ten  thousand  bushels  were  shipped  in  a  season.  In  the 
interior  of  the  county,  the  numerous  starch  factories  create 
a  certain  and  generally  remunerative  market  for  all  this 
crop  the  industry  of  the  farmer  can  produce. 

Corn.  This  crop  may  be  pronounced  the  agricultural 
staple  of  Essex  county  and  the  basis  of  the  rotation  and 
renovating  system  of  its  husbandry.  The  stalks  of  corn 
are  highly  valued  as  a  fodder  for  neat  cattle,  and  when  fed 
to  milch  cows,  from  their  succulent  qualities  if  carefully 
preserved,  are  considered  by  most  farmers  superior  to  hay. 

Carrots ,  Beets  and  Turnips  are  largely  cultivated  and 
extensively  used  in  feeding  horses,  neat  cattle  and  swine. 

Flax  is  seldom  cultivated  in  the  county.  Only  four 
acres  are  returned  in  the  census  of  1865,  as  appropriated  to 
the  crop,  and  not  a  single  acre  of  hemp. 

Hay.  This  crop  is  of  the  first  importance,  and  always 
commands  the  highest  prices.  The  production  of  hay,  how 
ever,  in  the  country,  falls  immensely  below  the  consump 
tion.  Large  quantities  of  pressed  hay  is  annually  imported 
from  Washington  county,  Vermont  and  Canada. 

STOCK. 

Numerous  dairies  exist  in  the  county,  and  some  of  them 
of  a  superior  character,  and  embracing  excellent  cows ; 
most  of  these  possess  an  infusion  of  pure  blood ;  but  few 
animals  are  found  in  the  district  exclusively  of  thorough 
bred  stock. 

It  is  apparent,  from  the  table  of  census  returns,  that 
the  wool  growing  interest  of  Essex  county  has  attained 
very  considerable  importance.  The  climate,  the  physical 
formation,  the  soil  and  position  of  this  region  will  combine 
to  render  this  territory  one  of  the  most  eligible  and  pro 
sperous  wool  growing  districts  of  the  state. 
31 


482  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

In  no  department  of  its  husbandry  has  this  county 
exhibited  more  decided  progress,  than  in  the  quality  and 
character  of  its  stock.  I  cannot  ascertain  that  a  thorough 
bred  animal  was  owned  in  the  country,  until  about  the  year 
1847.  Grades  of  Teeswater  and  Durham  had  been  intro- 
dnced  probably  before  that  period.  It  now  contains  indi 
viduals  of  nearly  every  breed,  that  may  almost  maintain 
an  equal  competition  with  the  stock  of  any  section  of  the 
state.  A  race  of  horses,  almost  indigenous  to  its  soil,  is  dis 
seminated  through  the  county,  which  combine  properties 
of  rare  excellence.  The  high  reputation  of  the  Black 
Hawk  horses  has  become  widely  diffused,  and  each  year 
adds  to  their  consideration.  In  no  district  have  they  been 
more  extensively  bred,  or  attained  greater  perfection  than 
in  this  region. 

FRUIT. 

The  Champlain  valley  is  preeminently  adapted,  in  soil 
and  climate,  to  the  production  of  most  varieties  of  the  apple. 
The  list  of  apples  cultivated  in  this  district  is  very  nume 
rous,  and  the  quality  generally  of  the  highest  excellence. 
Many  old  orchards  still  exist,  which  were  planted  at 
the  first  settlement  of  the  country.  The  pioneer,  usually, 
brought  with  his  household  goods,  the  bag  of  apple  seeds 
from  his  New  England  home,  and  the  young  orchard  was 
among  the  earliest  evidences  of  improvement  and  civiliza 
tion.  The  perversion  of  this  rich  bounty  of  providence, 
for  a  period,  created  a  prejudice,  which  led  to  the  neglect 
of  its  culture. 

A  few  years  ago,  five  thousand  engrafted  apple  trees  were 
planted  in  a  single  season  in  the  town  of  Crown  Point. 

Other  town s have  been  equally  conspicuous  in  this  enter 
prise.  Large  fields  are  devoted  to  the  apple  culture,  and  in 
all  the  eastern  towns,  young  trees  not  yet  in  bearing  occupy 
extensive  areas  and  impart  to  the  territory  a  pleasant  aspect 
of  thrift  and  improvement.  In  Willsboro'  and  Essex,  it 
seems  as  if  the  whole  region  would  soon  be  converted  into 
one  vast  orchard.  The  former  town  alone,  it  is  estimated, 
exported  in  the  autumn  of  '68,  between  four  and  five  thou- 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  483 

sand  barrels  of  apples,  of  which  fourteen  or  fifteen  hundred 
barrels  were  selected  grafts.1  Engrafted  trees  are  now 
chiefly  cultivated.  The  inferior  apples  not  adapted  to 
market,  are  dried,  or  used  for  the  feed  of  animals,  and  a 
very  small  portion  is  manufactured  into  cider.  A  large 
quantity  of  this  kind  of  fruit  are  purchased  and  transported 
by  bateau  loads  into  Canada. 

Plums  are  cultivated  in  numerous  varieties  and  of  great 
excellence,  and  are  largely  exported.  The  crop  is  fre 
quently  impaired  and  often  destroyed  by  the  ravages  of  the 
circulio.  This  pestilent  insect  infests,  also,  the  cherry. 
Many  varieties  of  the  pear  are  now  cultivated  successfully 
and  exported  to  considerable  extent. 

Much  attention  is  given  to  the  grape  culture,  and  em 
bracing  the  more  hardy  variety,  with  favorable  results. 
The  original  vine  of  the  Adirondac  grape  was  disco 
vered  beneath  a  cliff  of  the  mountain,  at  Port  Henry 
upon  the  grounds  of  Mr.  J.  G.  Weatherbee.  Whether  a 
native  growth  or  a  seedling  of  the  Isabella,  is,  I  think,  un 
determined,  but  propagated  by  the  skill  and  enterprise  of 
Mr.  J.  W.  Bailey  of  Plattsburg,  it  has  attained  celebrity 
as  a  fruit  and  proved  a  source  of  large  income  to  the  pro 
prietors.  Other  varieties  of  the  native  grape  might  by 
care  and  skill  be  successfully  cultivated.  The  blue  or 
huckleberry  appears  in  great  profusion  upon  new  clearings 
on  light  soils,  and  particularly  those  which  have  been 
burnt  over.  The  product  of  fruit  is  often  immense,  and 
its  picking,  boxing  and  transportation,  furnish  employ 
ment  to  crowds  of  laborers  of  every  age  and  sex,  through 
a  long  term  in  the  summer  and  autumn.  This  humble 
occupation  diffuses  through  the  interior  of  the  county,  no 
inconsiderable  sums  of  money. 

PUBLIC  IMPROVEMENTS. 

Several  projects  of  public  improvement  which  have  been 
contemplated  or  now  in  agitation,  demand  a  brief  notice. 

lR&o.  A.  D.  Barber. 


484  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

The  Internal  Navigation.  Almost  a  quarter  of  a  century 
ago,  the  plan  was  agitated  of  uniting  the  lakes  and  rivers 
of  the  interior  wilderness,  and  by  artificial  agency,  to 
form  an  extended  inland  navigation.  The  progress  of 
rail  roads,  and  their  approach  to  that  region  —  circum 
stances  which  did  not  enter  into  the  imaginings  of  the 
projectors  of  this  improvement  —  may  render  it  neither 
expedient  nor  practicable,  but  the  facts  are  of  interest,  and 
worthy  of  historical  commemoration. 

The  prominent  idea  in  this  scheme,  originally  contem 
plated  an  artificial  communication  between  Port  Kent,  on 
Lake  Champlain,  and  Booneville,  on  the  Black  river  canal. 
The  system  of  lakes  in  the  interior,  which  are  united  by 
a  series  of  rivers,  indicate  the  course,  and  were  designed 
to  form  the  route  of  this  improvement.  It  appears  from 
the  report  of  Professor  F.  N.  Benedict,  that  nature  has 
formed  a  practicable  route  for  this  improvement,  in  the 
direct  line  from  Purmort's  rapids,  a  point  on  the  Saranac 
river,  on  the  line  between  Essex  and  Clinton  counties,  to 
the  Moose  river,  twenty-one  miles  from  Booneville,  with 
which  the  contemplated  navigation  must  be  connected  by 
a  canal  or  rail  road.  This  route,  starting  from  Purmort's 
rapids,  passes  through  the  county  of  Essex,  by  the  Sara 
nac;  along  the  lower  and  upper  Saranac  lakes;  the 
Raquette  river,  Long,  Forked  and  Kaquette  lakes,  and 
the  intervening  streams,  to  the  series  of  Moose  river 
lakes,  and  thence  down  that  stream  to  the  western  termi 
nation.  This  track  may  readily  be  traced  on  the  very 
accurate  maps  of  this  region  recently  published. 

The  following  impressive  facts  are  established  by  these 
investigations.  There  exists,  Professor  Benedict  states, 
in  this  direct  course,  a  navigation  competent  to  steamers, 
of  fifty-six  miles,  and  by  small  boats  of  fifty-five  miles 
further.  A  distance  only  of  seven  and  one-fourth  miles 
occurs  along  this  route,  partially  or  entirely  interrupted 
by  obstructions  which  will  require  removing,  to  complete 
the  navigation  the  whole  line  of  one  hundred  and  eighteen 
miles.  The  lateral  navigation,  branching  from  this  main 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.  485 

trunk,  formed  by  the  rivers  and  lakes,  which  are  mingled 
with  those  above  enumerated,  affords  an  additional  com 
munication,  navigable  by  steamers,  of  thirty-three  miles, 
and  by  small  boats  of  ten  tons  burthen,  of^ thirty-eight 
miles  more,  with  an  intervening  obstruction  of  only  one- 
half  mile.  The  result  shows  the  existence,  in  that  seques 
tered  wilderness,  of  a  navigation  adapted  to  steam  boats 
of  eighty-nine  miles,  and  to  small  boats,  of  ninety-three 
miles,  which  is  obstructed  by  natural  impediments  inter 
posing  in  different  localities,  and  embracing  in  the  aggre 
gate,  the  trifling  distance  of  seven  and  three-quarters 
miles.  The  total  length  of  the  proposed  improvement  is 
one  hundred  and  ninety  miles.  The  obstacles  which 
exist  chiefly  occur  in  low  and  marshy  ground,  and  may 
be  readily  surmounted.  Mr.  Benedict  exhibits  minute 
calculations,  in  which  he  estimates  the  expense  of  improv 
ing  the  whole  one  hundred  and  ninety  miles,  which 
embraces  the  lateral  branches,  at  $312,950;  with  an  aver 
age  cost  per  mile  of  $1,611.  The  cost  of  opening  the  direct 
route,  $292,950;  at  an  average  expense  per  mile  of  $2,482. 

This  estimate  contemplates  merely  an  improvement 
of  the  existing  navigation,  and  surmounting  the  impedi 
ments  which  occur  along  the  seven  and  three-quarters 
miles. 

The  lateral  branches  of  this  navigation,  included  in  the 
survey  of  Prof.  Benedict,  would  penetrate  deeply  towards 
the  west  into  the  forest  of  St.  Lawrence,  Hamilton  and 
Franklin  counties,  and  on  the  eastward  along  the  western 
limits  of  Essex,  almost  touching  the  vast  iron  masses  of  the 
Adirondacs,  and  opening  their  resources  to  the  wants  and 
enterprise  of  the  coal  mines  of  the  west.  In  reference  to 
this  navigation,  he  says  :  "  Extensive  lines  of  small  boat 
navigation,  with  very  few  and  short  interruptions,  traverse 
all  considerable  sections  of  the  surface.  The  aggregate 
extent  of  these  lines  is  probably  no  less  than  three  hundred 
miles,  all  of  which  could  be  rendered  navigable  for  boats  of 
fifty  tons  burthen  at  comparatively  trifling  expense. 


486  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 

KAIL  ROADS. 

I  elsewhere  speak  of  the  infinite  importance  to  the  utiliz 
ing  of  the  vast  undeveloped  wealth  of  Essex  county  that 
rail  roads  should  penetrate  this  secluded  section  of  the 
state.  I  have  also  adverted  to  the  road  now  in  progress, 
which  was  intended  to  traverse  the  south-western  part  of 
the  county,  and  to  local  train  ways  in  the  towns  of  Moriah 
and  Westport.  The  former  of  these  roads,  which  is  now 
believed  to  be  in  vigorous  prosecution,  or  a  branch  has 
been  authorized  by  special  statutes  to  pass  up  the  valley 
of  the  Schroon  and  to  unite  with  some  other  road,  by 
which  it  may  form  a  connection  with  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Partial  surveys,  in  accordance  with  this  privilege,  have  been 
already  made. 

Several  organizations  at  different  periods  have  been 
formed,  with  the  purpose  of  accomplishing  the  great  pub 
lic  and  commercial  necessity  I  have  mentioned,  but  with 
results  wholly  unsatisfactory.  A  more  recent  project, 
conducted  by  the  White  Hall  and  Plattsburg  Hail  Road 
Company,  and  aided  to  a  small  extent  by  a  state  donative, 
promises  a  more  certain  and  practical  issue.  A  space  of 
twenty  miles  from  Plattsburg  to  a  locality  on  the  Au 
Sable  known  as  the  Point  of  Rocks,  within  three  miles 
of  Au  Sable  Forks,  has  been  completed  upon  which  trains 
are  now  running.  Another  section  of  this  road  south  of 
Port  Henry  and  about  nine  miles  in  length  is  nearly 
finished.  In  the  intermediate  distance  it  is  understood 
the  route  is  surveyed  and  located.  The  Hon.  John  Ham 
mond  is  president  of  this  company.  Another  company 
has  been  organized  under  the  name  of  Northern  Air  Line 
Rail  Road  Company,  with  Silas  Arnold,  Esq.,  president, 
which  proposes  to  construct  a  line,  that  shall  connect  with 
the  former  in  Peru  or  Plattsburg  at  the  north,  and  in 
Westport  or  Moriah  at  the  south. 


INDUSTRIAL  PROGRESS  AND  RESOURCES.          487 

PLANK  ROADS. 

A  number  of  these  works  were  constructed  some  years 
ago  in  various  parts  of  the  county.  Although  they  have 
been  immensely  valuable  and  productive  to  the  transport 
ing  business  of  the  region,  these  roads  have  not,  from 
their  perishable  nature,  under  the  abrasion  of  heavy  teams, 
proved  remunerative  financial  investments  by  the  direct 
returns  of  dividends.  Many  of  the  roads  have  been  aban 
doned,  and  none,  I  think,  yields  more  than  sufficient  to  sus 
tain  the  necessary  repairs. 

COMMERCE. 

The  commerce  of  Lake  Chain  plain  is  now  large  and 
every  year  augments.  The  lumber,  the  ore,  and  iron  fa 
brics  of  the  north,  combined  with  the  grain  and  flour  of 
the  west,  and  the  coal  and  merchandise  from  the  south 
constitute  a  vast  trade.  To  their  domestic  resources  may 
be  added  the  productions  of  Canada,  which  seek  a  market 
by  this  avenue,  and  the  goods  chiefly  bonded  that  pass  into 
the  dominion  from  American  ports,  and  much  of  which  is 
returned  under  fresh  entries,  all  swelling  this  immense 
internal  commerce.  Numerous  Canadian  vessels,  designed 
for  the  navigation  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  readily  distin 
guishable  from  American  craft  by  their  peculiar  structure 
and  appearance,  reach  the  waters  of  Charnplain  by  the 
Chamblee  canal.  Vessels  from  the  upper  lakes  are  occa 
sionally  observed  in  our  harbors.  A  large  class  of  the 
population  contiguous  to  the  lake  is  connected  with  its 
navigation.  This  occupation  forms  an  admirable  school 
for  the  acquisition  of  nautical  skill  and  experience,  and 
creates  a  bold  and  expert  body  of  mariners.  If  the  public 
exigencies  shall  again  demand  a  national  fleet  upon  Cham- 
plain,  her  own  marine  would  promptly  supply  daring  and 
efficient  crews.  The  following  tabular  statement  presents 
a  view  of  this  commerce  and  the  sailors  engaged  in  it : 


488  HISTORY  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 


Statement  of  the  Number,  Tonnage  and  Crews  of  Vessels  navi 
gating  Lake  Champiain  on  the  20th  of  June,  1868. 

Number.  Tonnage.  Crews.  • 

Steamers,  ships,  and  canal  boats,  Dis 
trict  of  Champiain, 672  43,512  1,800 

Vermont, 34  4,847         300 

Canadian  vessels, 165  13,656          753 

American  vessels  from  other  districts 

(estimated),  150  12,350  450 

Total, 1,021        73,865i 

1 1  have  received  the  above  from  the  kindness  of  Hon.  Jacob  Parmerter, 
collector  of  the  Champiain  district. 


APPENDIXES. 


APPENDIX  A. 

LETTER  FROM  GENERAL  WEBB  TO  COLONEL  MUNROE. 

Fort  Edward,  August  4th,  12  at  noon. 

SIR:  I  am  directed  by  General  Webb  to  acknowledge  the  re 
ceipt  of  three  of  your  letters  bearing  date  nine  o'clock  yesterday 
morning  and  one  about  six  in  the  evening  by  the  rangers  which  are 
the  only  men  that  have  got  in  here,  except  two  yesterday  morning 
with  your  first,  acquainting  him  that  the  enemy  were  in  sight. 
He  has  ordered  me  to  acquaint  you  that  he  does  not  think  it  pru 
dent  (as  you  know  his  strength  at  this  place)  to  attempt  a  junction 
or  to  assist  you,  till  reinforced  by  the  militia  of  the  colonies,  for 
the  immediate  march,  of  which,  repeated  expresses  have  been  sent. 
One  of  our  scouts  brought  in  a  Canadian  prisoner  last  night  from 
the  investing  party,  which  is  very  large,  and  have  possessed  all  the 
grounds  five  miles  on  this  side  of  Fort  William  Henry.  The  num 
ber  of  the  enemy  is  very  considerable  the  prisoners  say,  eleven 
thousand,  and  have  a  large  train  of  artillery  with  mortars,  and 
were  to  open  their  batteries  this  day. 

The  general  thought  proper  to  send  you  this  intelligence,  that  in 
case  he  should  be  so  unfortunate,  from  the  delays  of  the  militia,  not 
to  have  it  in  his  power  to  give  you  timely  assistance,  you  might  be 
able  to  make  the  best  terms  left  in  your  power. 

The  bearer  is  a  sergeant  of  the  Connecticut  forces,  and  if  he  is 
happy  enough  to  get  in,  will  bring  advices  from  you.  We  keep  con 
tinual  scouts  going  to  endeavor  to  bring  intelligence  from  you.  I 
am,  sir,  with  the  heartiest  and  most  anxious  wishes  for  your  welfare, 
your  most  obedient,  humble  servant, 

E.  BARTRAM,  Aid- de-camp. 
To  Col.  Monroe,  or  officer  commanding  at  Fort  William  Henry. 


490  APPENDIXES. 


APPENDIX  B. 

MONTCALM. 

M.  Jean  Pierre  de  Bougainville  addressed  the  subjoined  letter  to 
William  Pitt: 

To  the  Right  Hon.  Wm.  Pitt. 

SIR:  The  honor  paid  during  your  ministry  to  the  memory  of 
Mr.  Wolfe  gives  me  room  to  hope  that  you  will  not  disapprove  of 
the  grateful  efforts  made  by  the  French  troops  to  perpetuate  the 
memory  of  the  Marquis  de  Montcalm.  The  corpse  of  that  general 
who  was  honored  with  the  regret  of  your  nation,  is  buried  at  Que 
bec.  I  have  the  honor  to  send  you  an  epitaph,  which  the  Academy 
of  Inscriptions  and  Belles-Lettres  have  wrote  for  him,  and  I  would 
beg  the  favor  of  you,  sir,  to  read  it  over,  and  if  there  be  nothing 
improper  in  it,  to  procure  me  a  permission  to  send  it  to  Quebec,  en 
graved  in  marble  to  be  put  over  the  Marquis  Montcalm's  tomb.  If 
the  permission  should  be  granted,  may  I  presume,  sir,  to  entreat 
the  honor  of  a  line  to  acquaint  me  with  it,  and  at  the  same  time  to 
send  me  a  passport  that  engraved  marble  may  be  received  on  board 
an  English  vessel,  and  that  Mr.  Murray,  governor  of  Quebec,  may 
give  leave  to  have  it  put  up  in  the  Ursuline  Church.  I  ask  pardon, 
sir,  for  taking  off  your  attention,  even  for  a  moment,  from  your  im 
portant  concerns,  but  to  endeavor  to  immortalize  great  men  and 
illustrious  citizens,  is  to  do  honor  to  you.  I  am,  etc., 

BOUGAINVILLE. 

Paris,  March  26th,  1761. 

REPLY  or  MR.  PITT. 

Sir  :  It  is  a  real  satisfaction  to  me  to  send  you  the  king's  consent 
on  such  an  interesting  subject,  as  the  very  handsome  epitaph  drawn 
by  the  Academy  of  Inscriptions  at  Paris,  for  the  Marquis  de  Mont- 
calm,  which  is  desired  to  be  sent  to  Quebec,  engraved  on  marble,  to 
be  set  up  on  the  tomb  of  that  illustrious  warrior.  The  whole  senti 
ments  expressed  in  the  desire  to  pay  this  tribute  to  the  memory  of 
their  general,  by  the  French  troops  who  served  in  Canada,  and  who 
saw  him  fall  at  their  head,  in  a  manner  worthy  of  him  and  worthy 
of  them,  cannot  be  too  much  applauded. 

I  shall  take  pleasure,  sir,  in  facilitating  a  design  so  full  of  respect 
to  the  deceased,  and  as  soon  as  I  am  informed  of  the  measures  taken 
for  embarking  the  marble,  I  shall  immediately  give  the  passport 
you  desire,  and  send  orders  to  the  governor  of  Canada  for  its  recep 
tion.  As  to  the  rest,  be  assured,  sir,  that  I  have  a  just  sense  of  the 
obliging  things  said  to  me  in  the  letter  with  which  you  honored  me, 
and  that  I  think  it  a  singular  happiness  to  have  an  opportunity  to 


APPENDIXES.  491 

express  those  sentiments  of  distinguished  esteem  and  consideration 

with  which  I  have  the  honor  to  be,  etc., 

W.  PITT. 

April  10th,  1761. 

This  correspondence,  so  graceful  and  dignified,  and  worthy  the 
exalted  subject,  resulted  in  the  engraving  of  the  magnificent  epi 
taph  annexed  by  the  Academy  of  Inscriptions  and  Belles  Lettres 
of  Paris  : 

GENERAL  MONTCALM'S  EPITAPH. 

H1C  JACET. 

Utroque  in  orbe  seternum  Victurus 

LUDOVICTJS  JOSEPHUS   DE  MONTCALM   GOZON, 

Marcliio  Sancti  Verani,  Baro  Gabriaci, 

Ordinis  Sancti  Ludovici,  Commendator, 

Legatus  Generalis  Exercituum  Gallicorum. 

Egregius  et  Gives  et  Miles, 
Nullius  Rei  appetens,  prseterquam  verse  laudis, 

Ingenio  felici  et  litteris  exculto, 

Omnes  Militiae  gradus  per  continua  decora  emensus, 

Omnium  belli  Artium,  temporum,  discriminum 

gnarus 
In  Italia,  in  Bohemia,  in  Germania, 

Dux  Industrius ; 
Mandata  sibi,  ita  semper  gerens,  ut  majoribus 

par  haberetjir. 
Jam  Claris  periculis, 

Ad  tutandum  Canadensem  Provinciam  missus 
Parva  Militum  manu,  Hostium  copias,  non  semel 

repulit : 

Propugnacula  cepit  viris  armisque,  instructissima. 

Algoris,  Inediae,  vigilarum,  laboris  patiens, 

Suis  unice  prospiciens,  immemor  sui, 

Hostis  acer,  Victor  Mansuetus. 
Fortunam  virtute,  virium  inopiam,  peritia 

Et  celeritate,  compensavit. 
Imminens  Colonise  Fatum  et  consilio  et  manu  per 

quadriennium  sustinuit. 
Tandem  ingentem  exercitum  Duce  strenuo  et 

audaci, 

Classemque  omni  bellorum  mole  gravem, 
Multiplici  prudentia,  diu  ludificatus, 

Vi  pertractus  ad  dimicandum, 

In  prima  acie,  in  primo  conflictu,  vulneratus, 

Religioni,  quam  semper  coluerat,  innitens, 

Magno  suorum  desiderio,  nee  sine  liostium 

mcerore  extinctus  est. 
Die  XIV  Septem.  A.  D.  M.DCC.LIX. 

JStat.  XLVIII. 

Mortales  optimi  Duels  exuvias,  in  excavata  humo, 
Quam  Globus  bellicus  decidens,  disiliensque 

defoderat, 

Galli  lugentes  deposuerunt 
Et  generosaa  Hostium  fidei  commendarunt.1 

lHough's  Pouchot. 


492 


APPENDIXES. 


The  letter  of  Montcalin  from  which  extracts  are  introduced  in 
the  text  is  copied  by  Carlyle  in  his  Frederick  the  Great  (vol.  v, 
pages  149-51)  from  a  work  by  Beatson  entitled  Plains  of  Abra 
ham  which  embraces  a  correspondence  ranging  from  1757  to  1759 
between  M.  M.  Berryer  and  De  La  Mole  and  Montcalm.  The 
genuineness  of  these  letters  has  been  questioned,  but  Carlyle  uses 
them  without  dissent,  and  in  my  view  they  are  impressed  by  inhe 
rent  evidences  of  authenticity.  My  limits  only  permit  me  to 
reproduce  in  addition  to  the  extracts  in  the  text,  the  closing  para 
graphs  copied  by  Carlyle  : 

"  So  confident  am  I  of  what  I  write  that  I  will  allow  but  ten  years 
after  the  conquest  of  Canada  to  see  its  fulfillment. 

"  Thus  as  a  Frenchman  do  I  to-day  console  myself  for  the  danger 
so  imminent  and  pressing  of  seeing  this  colony  lost  to  my  country." 

The  courtesy  of  an  eminent  scholar  and  jurist  of  Canada  (the 
Honorable  Charles  Mondelet  of  the  court  of  appeals)  has  enabled 
me  to  subjoin  some  valuable  particulars  connected  with  these  events. 

M.  Jean  Pierre  de  Bougainville,  the  elegant  correspondent  of 
Pitt,  was  brother  to  Colonel  Bougainville,  the  protege  and  aide  of 
Montcalm,  and  the  great  circumnavigator.  In  accordance  with  the 
wishes  of  the  French  troops,  animated  by  their  ardent  sentiments, 
in  which  the  memory  of  Moutcalrn  was  cherished,  Bougainville 
caused  the  inscription  to  be  prepared  by  the  Academy  and  engraved 
it  is  supposed  upon  a  marble  slab  designed  for  a  mural  monument  to 
be  placed  in  the  church  of  the  Ursulines  at  Quebec.  It  is  believed 
that  in  pursuance  of  the  assent  of  the  British  government,  the 
slab  was  sent  to  Canada,  but  no  traces  or  vestige  of  it  now  exist. 


APPENDIX  C. 


CIVIL  LIST  OF  ESSEX  COUNTY. 


Supreme  Court. — Fourth  Dis 
trict. 
Augustus  C.  Hand, 1847 

County  Judges. 

Daniel  Ross 1800 

Dean  Edson,  1823 

Reuben  Whallon,  1831 

Wolcott  Tyrill, 1838 

Henry  H.  Ross 1847 

John  E.  McVine, 1848 

RobertS.  Hale, 1*56 

Byron  Pond, 1864 


Representatives  in   Congress,  resi 
dents  of  Essex  County. 
Benjamin  Pond,. .1811  and  1813 

Asa  Adgate, 1815  and  1817 

Ezra  C.  Gross,  ...1819  and  1821 

Henry  H.  Ross,  1825 

Isaac  Finch, 1829 

Reuben  Whallon,  1833 

Augustus  C.  Hand, 1839 

Thomas  A.  Tomlinson, 1841 

(  1847 
Orlando  Kellogg, \  1862 

(1864 


APPENDIXES. 


493 


George  R.  Andrews, 1849 

Geo  A.  Simmons,  1853  and  1855 
Robt.  S.  Hale  to  fill  vacancy,  1865 

State  Senators. 

Reuben  Sanford 1828 

Augustus  C.  Hand, 1844 

James  S.  WhaHon, 1847 

Eli  W.   Rogers, 1852 

Ralph  A.  Loveland, 1857 

Palmer  E.  Havens, 1863 

Matthew  Hale,  1867 

Members  of  Asembly. 

Wm.  Gilliland  (Clinton and 

Essex,) 1800 

William  Bailey, 1802 

Thomas  Stower  (Essex,)  ..  1803 

1804 
1805 
1806 
1807 
1808 
1809 
1810 
1811 
1812 
1813 
1814 
1815 
1816 
1817 
1818 
1819 
1820 
1827 
1821 
1824 
1823 
1826 
1829 
1830 
1831 
1832 
1833 
1834 
1835 


Theodoross  Ross, 

Stephen  Cuyler,  

Benjamin  Pond, 

Delavan  DeLance,  Jr.,  ...  -j 

Manoah  Miller,  ...., 

Levi  Thompson, 

Reuben  Sanford, ., 


John  Hoffnagle, 


Ebenezer  Douglass, 

Isaac  Finch,  1822  and 

Asa  Adgate, 

William  Smith, ...1825  and 
EzraC   Gross,. ....1828  and 

William  Kirby, 

Josephs.  Reed, 

Isaac  Vanderwarker, 

Almerin  Smith, 

Barnabus  Myrick, 

Thomas  A.   Tomlinson, 


Thomas  A.  Tomlinson, 


Gideon  Hammond, 


George  A.  Simmons 


Samuel  Shumway,.. 
John  C.  Hammond, 
Caleb  1).  Barton,... 


1836 
1837 

1839 
1844 
1840 
1841 
1842 
1843 
1845 
1846 


William  H.  Butrick,  ...... 


George  W.  Goff,  1849  and 
Abraham  Weldon, 


1850 


Jonathan  Burnett, 

Nathaniel  C.  Boynton,  ... 

John  A.  Lee,  

Ralph  A.  Loveland, 

Monroe  Hall,.. 


Martin  Finch, 


Palmer  E.  Havens,    

William  H.  Richardson, 
Samuel  Root,.. 


1854 
1855 
1856 

1857 

1858 

1859 

1850 

{  1851 

(1862 

]  1863 

(.1867 

(  1864 

4  1865 

(1866 

(1868 

1  1869 


Sheriffs. 

Thomas  Stower, 1799 

Jonathan  Lynde, 1802 

John  Hoffnagle,  Jr., 1806 

(  1808 
William  Kirby, \  1821 

(.1822 

Delavan  De  Lance, 1812 

George  Throop, 1813 

Luther  Adgate. 1819 

Coughton  Lobdell, 1815 

Samuel  Murdock,    


494 


APPENDIXES. 


Leander  J.  Lockwood, 1828 

Solomon  Everest, 1831 

John  Harris, 1837 

Alanson  Wilder, 1840 

Chilion  A.  Tremble, 1843 

Norman  Page, 1846 

Aaron  B.  March,  1849 

Charles  W.  Ensign, 1852 

Jacob  Parmerter, 1855 

Elisha  A.  Adams, 1858 

William  W.  Tabor, 1861 

Ransom  L.  Locke,  1864 

Abijah  Perry, 1867 

County  Clerks. 

Stephen  Cuyler,  1799 

Simeon  Frisbee,  1808 

William  Kirbey,   1813 

Thomas  Stower, 1815 

Ashley  Pond, 1821 

Leonard  Stow, 1827 

EdwardS.  Cuyler,  1833 

Edmund  F.  Williams, 1839 

George  S.  Nicholson, 1848 

Elisha  A.  Adams, 1851 

Robert  W.  Livingstone,...  1857 
William  E.  Calkins, 1860 

County    Treasurers   under  consti 
tution  of  1846. 

Safford  E.  Hale,  Nov. ..  1848 
John  L.  Merriam,  "  ...  1857 
Charles  N.  Williams,  " 1860 

Surrogates. 

William  Gilliland,  Mar.  24,  1800 
James  McCrea,  Oct.  29,  1801 
Thomas  Treadwell,  Mar.  14,  1807 
Ezra  C.  Gross,  Feb.  13, 1815 
Ashley  Pond,  Mar.  2,  1819 


John  Calkins,  Mar.   3, 1821 

Augustus  C.  Hand,  Apr.  15,  1831 
Orlando  Kellogg,    Jan.  24, 1840 
Robert  W.  Livings 
tone,  Jan. 24, 1844 

In  1846  duties  assigned  to  County 
Judge.  Special  Judge  and 
Surrogate. 

Martin  F.  Nichol 
son,  Nov.        1857 
Office  abolished,      Jan.         1860 

District  Attorney. 
Ralph  Hascall,        Jun.  13,  1818 
Dean  Edson,  Mar.    3,  1821 

David  B.  McNeil,  Oct.  2,  1828 
Gardner  Stone,  Apr.  11, 1833 
Moses  T.  Clough,  Sept.  24, 1844 
Edward  S.  Shum- 

way,  resigned,  Nov.  1850 
James  P.  Butler,  Apr.  12, 1852 
Hiram  M.  Chace,  Nov.  1855 
Byron  Pond,  Nov.  1858 
Martin  Finch,  1864 

Arod  K.  Dudley,  1867 

Delegates  to   Constitutional    Con 
vention. 

Thomas  Treadwell 
(Clinton  and  Es 
sex),  convention  of,  1801 

Reuben  Sanford,  Es 
sex,  convention  of,  1821 

George  A.  Simmons,  1846 

Mathew  Hale,  1867 

Regent  of  University. 
Robert  S.  Hale,      Mar.  29, 1859 


APPENDIXES.  495 


APPENDIX  D. 

The  census  returns  of  Essex  for  1865  embrace  the  following  stat 
istics  : 

Acres. 

Land  improved, 246,824 

Lands  unimproved, 442,186 

No. 

Sheep  shorn,  62,201 

Milch  cows, 9,219 

Pounds. 

Wool, 252,226 

Butter,  654,174 

Tons. 
Tons  of  hay, 48,712 

Bushels. 

Spring  wheat,  26,388 

Oats, , 913,912 

Winter  rye,  63,68 

Buckwheat, 38,110 

Indian  corn, 101,324 

Potatoes,   400,574 

Pounds. 
Maple  sugar, 92,940 

Bushels. 
Beans,  13,943 


My  limits  will  not  permit  the  reproducing  the  elaborate  statisti 
cal  tables,  which  will  be  found  by  reference  to  census  returns. 


496 


APPENDIXES. 


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INDEX. 


Abercrombie,  his  antecedents,  84; 
expedition  against  Ticonderoga, 
85 ;  conduct  at  Ticonderoga,  92 ; 
retreats  to  Lake  George,  95. 

Abraham,  Plains  of,  114. 

Adams,  H.  J.,  275,  280,  287. 

Aerial  currents,  370. 

Agassiz,  Prof.,  351,  426. 

Agriculture,  477;  how  affected  by 
lumbering,  478;  by  teaming, 
478;  by  conflicting  titles,  11; 
products  of,  479;  stock,  481; 
statistics  of,  495. 

Aiken,  C.  H.,  238. 

Albany,  convention  at,  39. 

Allen,  Ebenezer,  takes  Mt,  Defiance, 
187 ;  captures  English  near  Es 
sex,  188. 

Allen,  Ethan,  captures  Ticonderoga, 
134 ;  at  St.  John,  139 ;  notice  of, 
140;  defeated  and  captured  at 
Montreal,  145;  his  treatment, 
145. 

Allen,  W.,  238. 

American  army,  its  condition,  147, 
152;  sickness  of,  153 ;  sufferings 
at  Crown  Point,  162. 

Amherst  repairs  to  Lake  George, 
102 ;  character,  102 ;  delay,  104 ; 
occupies  Ticonderoga  and 
Crown  Point,  104;  constructs 
road  to  Charlestown,  105 ; 
expedition  of  returns  to  Crown 
Point,  109  ;  relics  of,  109 ;  works 
of  at  Crown  Point  and  Ticon 
deroga,  112 ;  advances  against 
Montreal,  114,  and  captures  it, 
i  10. 

Archer,  Lester,  253, 256. 

Armstrong,  Thomas,  292. 

Arnold,  Benedict,  holds  commission 
from  Massachusetts,  133 ;  at 
Ticonderoga,  133 ;  seizes  vessels 
at  St  Johns,  139 ;  constructs 
fleet,  163 ;  attacked  at  Valcour, 
168 ;  defeated  and  burns  his  ves 
sels,  171 ;  expedition  to  Quebec, 

32 


Arnold,  continued  — 

149;  fails  to  surprise  it,  151; 
leads  a  column  at  Quebec, 
wounded  and  repulsed,  155 ; 
superseded  by  Thomas,  159; 
governor  of  Montreal,  160 ;  re 
treats  from  Montreal,  160. 

Arnold,  R.  W.,  244. 

Arnold,  Silas,  484. 

Asbestos,  415. 

Assembly,  members  of,  493. 

Attorneys,  district,  494. 

Au  Sable  pond,  325;  valley,  437; 
walled  banks  of,  331 ;  saw  mills 
at  the  mouth  of,  453,  horse 
nail  company,  officers  of,  457. 

Aurora  borealis,  370. 

Bacon,  Major,  262. 

Baker,  G.  J.,  238. 

Baker,  J.L.,  238. 

Baker,  Remember,  134. 

Barker,  A.,  262. 

Barker,  E.  J.,  258,  263,  264, 272. 

Bartlett,  L.  A.,  238. 

Bates,  H.  J.,  238. 

Beaches,  the,  iron  sand  and  gravel 
on,  422. 

Beaman,  Nathan,  120. 

Beaumont,  C.  D.,  231,  236. 

Beaver  meadows,  125. 

Beaver,  the,  388. 

Bees,  wild,  360. 

Belding,  J.  W.,  245,  248. 

Bellamy,  C.  F.,  238. 

Benedict,  Joel,  257. 

Benedict,  Professor  F.  K,  484. 

Benzel,  Adolphus,  120. 

Bissell,  E.  L.,  238.  ' 

Boice,  Colonel,  273. 

Boquet  valley,  459. 

Boudrye,  L.  N.,  261,  273. 

Bougainville,  490,  492  ;  at  Quebec, 
111. 

Boulamarque  in  command  at  Ticon 
deroga,  104 ;  burns  bridges  near 
Lake  George,  and  retreats,  86. 


498 


INDEX. 


Boynton,  J.  H.,  275. 

Bradstreet,  at  Ticonderoga,  94;  at 
Frontenac,  95. 

Brown,  Colonel  John,  133 ;  at  Que 
bec,  154 ;  attacks  Ticonderoga, 
187. 

Brown,  John,  notice  of,  220  ;  his  ca 
reer,  222  ;  at  Harper's  Ferry,  224; 
capture  and  execution,  227;  re 
marks  on,  227;  Mr.  Vallingdig- 
ham's  opinion  of,  227  ;  Governor 
Wise's  opinion  of,  228. 

Bryant,  L.S.,  274, 289. 

Brydon,  J.,  274,  288,  290. 

Buck,  Hiram,  231,233. 

Burgey,  Daniel,  231,  237,238. 

Burgoyne  succeeds  Carleton,  174;  his 
army,174;  his  subordinates,  175; 
treaty  at  Boquet,  175 ;  proclama 
tion,  176 ;  attacks  Ticonderoga, 
180 ;  erects  battery  on  Mt.  De 
fiance,  180  ;  pursues  Long_  to 
Skeensboro',  and  defeats  him, 
183. 

Butrick,  G.  M.,  274. 

Cadwell,M.  P.  S.,  231,237. 

Calkins,  A.  F.,  238. 

Cameron,  D.,  238. 

Campbell,  G.  F.,  274, 286. 

Campbell,  G,W.,  252. 

Canada,  exhaustion  of,  98;  corrup 
tion  in,  99 ;  feelings  towards  the 
French  in,  99  ;  suffering,  79 ; 
population  of,  79  ;  corruption  in, 
79. 

Canadians  favorable  to  Americans, 
142,  145 ;  zeal  of,  81 ;  friendly 
receive  lands  from  New  York 
162  ;  their  bravery,  100. 

Carillon,  50,  51. 

Carleton,   escapes  to  Quebec,   147 
pursues,  163;   builds  a  fleet  at 
Valcour,    168;     takes     Crown 
Point,  173 ;  returns  to  Canada, 
173 ;  humanity  of,  162. 

Carleton,  Major,  takes  Forts  George 
and  Ann,  190. 

Carter,  J.  M.,  282. 

Cartier,  discovers  the  St.  Lawrence, 
3;  sees  mountains  of  New  York 
and  Vermont,  3;  kidnaps  In 
dians,  4. 

Cauglmawaga  Indians,  claim  of,  204. 

Cedars,  the,  disaster  at,  161. 
Cement  water,  422. 
Champl-dn,  5  ;  early  life,  6  ;  voyages 
of,   9,   10;  founds   Quebec,   10; 
discovers  Lake  Champlain,  12 ; 


!hamplain,  continued  — 

battle    with    Iroquois,   15;  re 
turns  from   France,   19 ;  battle 
at  the  Richelieu,  19  ;  on  the  Ot 
tawa,  20,  21 ;  at  Nipissing,  21  ; 
sees  Lake  Huron,  21 ;  attacks  In 
dian     fort,   22;    wounded,   23; 
builds  castle  St.  Louis,  24 ;  de 
fends  Quebec,  24;  death    and 
character,  24. 
Champlain  canal,  434. 
Champlain,  Lake,  1 ;  names  of,  3 ; 
opening  and  closing  navigation, 
371 ;  former  trade  on,  434. 
Charlotte  county  organized,  129. 
Chasm  at  Port    Kendall,  332;    at 

Split  Rock,  333. 
Chastes,  Aymer  de,  5. 
Chauvin,  5. 

Chesterfield,  account  of,  211. 
Chipman,  Nathaniel,  197. 
Choiseuls,  predicts  injury  to  England 

from  cession  to  Canada,  116. 
Civil  list,  39,  482. 
Clark,  Robert,  374. 
Clerks,  county,  494. 
Climate,  370 ;  and  winds,  368. 
Clinton  county  organized,  203. 
Coates,  G.  B.,  239,  293,  294. 
Cochrane,  Mrs.,letter  on  Lord  Howe, 

88. 
Colonies  dissatisfied  and   alarmed, 

45,  48. 

Colonies,  English,  conditions  of,  80  ; 
inferiority  of  British  officials  in, 
82. 

Colonies,  French,  81 ;  feudal  system 
in,  81 ;  character  of  French  offi 
cials,  82. 

Colvin,  Alvin,  109, 371. 
Commerce,  487. 

Compact,written,  of  5th  Cavalry  ,257. 
Congress,  action  of,  on  capture  of 
Ticonderoga,   137;    decides  to 
attack  Canada,  137;  represen 
tatives  in,  492. 
Constitution    formed  at    Chatham, 

Canada,  224. 

Conventions,  delegates  to,  494. 
Cook,  H.,  238. 
Copper,  418. 
Copperas,  422. 
Corlear,  Arent,  29. 
Corlear's  lake,  37. 
Courcelles  attacks    Mohawks,  and 

suffering  of,  28. 

Crown  Point  described,  41;  army 
for  reduction  of,  49  ;  ruins  at, 
112;  early  importance  of,  117  ; 


INDEX. 


499 


Crown  Point,  continued  — 

description  of,  118  ;  attention  of 

English   government    to,    120 ; 

siege   of,  203 ;  account  of,  211 ; 

supplies  troops,  231,  265. 
Cullen,  Colonel,  253. 
Cunningham,  J.  L.,  275,  276. 

D' Avignon,  F.  J.,  250,  254. 
Davis,  C.  H.,  245. 

Dean,  Silas,  132. 

Deer,  247. 

DeForest,  O.,258. 

Delany,  P.  H.,  275. 

Dellius  Grant,  38. 

DeMonts,  8  ;  colony  of,  8 ;  explores 
New  England,  9. 

DePontbriand,  Bishop,  he  defends 
Montcalm,  111. 

DeTracy,  expedition  against  Mo 
hawks,  31. 

DeTrepesee,  fight  at  Ticonderoga 
and  death,  86. 

Dickerson,  M.  J.,  289. 

Dieskau,  51 ;  advances  to  attack 
Johnson,  56  ;  defeated  and  cap 
tured,  60 ;  danger  of  assassina 
tion,  61;  death  and  character, 
61. 

Dobie,  D.  F.,  288. 

Dodge,  Daniel,  horse  nail  machine, 
454  ;  account  of,  455. 

Dominy,  L.  8.,  280,  284,  289. 

Donohoe,  Col.,  287. 

Doolittle,  L.  L.,  231,  239. 

Douglass,  W.,  244. 

Drift  and  diluvial  formation,  423. 

Dunder  Rock,  37. 

Dwyer,  S.  C.,  232,  241,  242. 

Easterbrooks,  A.  L.,  238. 

Edgerly,  E.  F.,  231,  236,  237,  238. 

Elizabethtown,  211,  334. 

Elmore,  Mrs.,  anecdote  of,  172. 

English  boats  repulsed  at  Ticon 
deroga,  65. 

English  colonies,  exactions  on,  102. 

English  policy,  36,  44. 

Essex  and  Clinton,  population  of, 
208 ;  account  of,  211. 

Essex  and  Vermont,  comparison  of, 
215. 

Essex  county  organized,  207;  ori 
ginal  county  shire,  208 ;  in  war 
of  181 2,  208;  origin  and  habits 
of  the  people,  209 ;  in  season  of 
1816,  210 ;  volunteers,  294 ;  dis 
bursements  of,  295. 


Fairman,  J.,  250. 
Farnsworth,  J.  H.,  244. 
Feldspar  bed,  Spalding's,  421. 
Fertilizers,  426 ;  phosphate  of  lime, 

426 ;  marl,  427 ;  muck  and  peat, 

428. 
Fifth  New  York  Cavalry,  history 

of,  256. 

Fire  on  Whiteface  mountain,  320. 
First  settlers,  George  and  William 

Trimble,  203. 
Fish  of  interior  lakes,  trout,  357; 

small,  358 ;  white  or  frost,  358. 
Fish  of  Lake  Cham  plain,  351 ;  chaou- 

sarou,  351;  salmon,  351;  shad, 

352;    pickerel,    353;    sturgeon, 

354;    smaller,  355;    ling,   355; 

smelt,  356. 

Fishing  by  torchlight,  356 
Folsom,  Capt.,  at  Lake  George,  61. 
Foot,  W.  T.,  465. 
Forest  trees,  364;  changes  in  growth, 

366 ;  diseases  of,  367. 
Forty-fourth  Regiment,  243. 
Francis,  Col.,  killed,  185. 
French    claims,    39 ;    names,    their 

beauty,  47;  policy,  26,  42;  set 
tlements  on  Lake  Champlain, 

117. 

Frisbie,  Col.,  236. 
Frontenac,  Count,  attacks  Mohawks, 

35. 
Fruit,  482 ;  apples,  plums,  486  ;  Adi- 

rondac  grapes,  486 ;  pears,  486 ; 

huckleberry,  486. 

Galena,  416  ;  Indian's  visit  to  bed  of, 
417. 

Gall,  Adjutant,  264. 

Game,  125. 

Garden  Island,  account  of,  170. 

Gas,  inflammable,  135. 

Gates  at  Ticonderoga,  173. 

Geology,  notice  of  rocks  at  Port 
Henry,  419. 

Gibbs,  N.  J.,  275,  287,  289. 

Gilliland,  James,  128. 

Gilliland  the  younger,  130. 

Gilliland,  William,  locates  lands, 
122 ;  colonized  the  Boquet,  124 ; 
narrative  of,  127;  account  of, 
154;  collision  with  Arnold,  165  ; 
Hartley  prefers  charges  against, 
165  ;  denunciation  of  Arnold, 
166;  misfortunes,  202;  death, 
203. 

Glass,  468. 

Glen's  Falls  Republican,  290. 


500 


INDEX. 


Goodhue,  Rev.  J.  T.,134. 

Grace,  C.  A.,  275. 

Grants  and  patents,  account  of,  296  ; 
Abeel,  299;  Benzel,  300;  Ben 
son,  300 ;  Bruyn,  301 ;  Camp 
bell,  Allen,  301 ;  Campbell,  D., 
301 ;  Connelly,  301 ;  Deal,  302  ; 
Field,  302;  Friswell,  303; 
Frelegh,  303;  Gilliland,  303; 
Gilliland  &  Watson,  303  ;  Grant, 
303;  Guise,  3u4 ;  Hicks,  304; 
Judcl,  305  ;  Kellett,  305  ;  Kelly, 
305 ;  Kennedy,  305 ;  Legge,  306 ; 
Miller,  307  ;  Mallory's,  308  ;  Ma- 
thews,  308;  Maule,  308;  Mc- 
Intosh,  308;  McBride,308;  Mc 
Donald,  309;  McKensie,  309; 
Montressor,  309;  Old  Military 
Tract,  309;  Ord,  310;  Porter, 
310  ;  Potts,  310 ;  Ross,  310  ;  Ry- 
erse,  310;  Stoughton,  311 ;  Skene, 
311 ;  Small,  311 ;  Sutherland, 
311;  Springer,  311;  soldiers 
rights,  312;  Stevenson,  313; 
Stewart,  313 ;  Snmmervale,  313 ; 
Totten  &  Crosstield,  313  ;  Tom- 
lin,  316 ;  Wliarton,  316 ;  Wries- 
burgh,  316. 

Grants,  French,  121. 

Graphite,  380,  415,  416. 

Graphite  Company,  American,  470. 

Gray,  C.  O.,  250,251. 

Hagar,  C.  L.,  275. 

Haldimand  documents,  201. 

Hale,   Colonel    Nathan,    notice  of, 

184. 

Hale,  F.  C.,  299. 
Hall,  Hiland,  201. 
Hammond,   C.   F.,    426  ;     supplies 

horses  to  cavalry,  258. 
Hammond,  John,  257,  258,  259,  260, 

261,  262,  264,  266, 267,  268, 484. 
Hand,  A.  C.,  134. 
Hasbrook,  Captain,  263. 
Haviland    advances    trom    Crown 

Point  against  Montreal,  115. 
Hay  ward,  E.  B.,  258. 
Hayward,  J.  F.,  245,  249. 
Henderson,  J.  A.,  244. 
flendrik,  56 ;  killed,  58. 
Hendrik's  speech  at  Albany,  49. 
Herrick,  Captain,  seizes  Skeensboro', 

135. 

Hessians,  the,  174. 
Hctzil,S.,244. 
Hinds,  G.  W.,250. 
Hinman,   Colonel   Benjamin,  takes 

command  at  Ticonderoga,  141. 


Hochelaga  named  Mont  Royal,  3. 

Holbrook,  A.  H.,  238. 

Holden;  A.  W.,238. 

Horicon,  50. 

Horicon,  corporal,  249. 

Howe,  Lord,  his  zeal,  84;  Howe  & 
Stark,  86;  killed,  87;  effect  of 
his  death,  87  ;  his  burial,  89. 

Hoystradt,  W.  H.,238. 

Hubbardton,  battle  of,  183. 

Hudson,  19. 

Huff,  William,  281. 

Hunter's  Pass,  333. 

Huntley,  C.  W.,  231,  237,  238. 

Hyperstene,  379,  420. 

Indian  Pass,  329. 

Indian  wars,  27  ;  fraternity,  57 ;  bat 
tle  at  Elizabethtown,  216  ;  land 
purchasers  prohibited,  313. 

Indians  at  Boquet,  175  ;  at  Valcour, 
169 ;  valuable  aid  of,  68  ;  at  Lake 
George,  72  ;  contract  small  pox 
from  the  dead,  77  ;  unreliable  to 
the  French,  101. 

Industrial  pursuits,  432. 

Inland  navigation,  state  aid,  434. 

Iron  manufactories,  436,  437 ;  Wills- 
boro',438;  Boquet,  439;  Ticon 
deroga,  439;  Elba  works,  439; 
Au  Sable  Valley,  440 ;  Wilming 
ton,  440;  J.  &.  J.  Rogers,  441 ; 
Lower  Jay,  444;  Clintonville, 
448 ;  at  Keeseville,  453, 454,  458; 
at  Elizabethtown,  459,  463;  in. 
Westport,  461,  463;  in  Wills- 
boro',  461,  463;  In  Lewis,  461, 
462;  Essex,  462;  Moriah,  463; 
Port  Henry  Furnace,  464; 
Fletcherville,  466;  Hammond, 
467;  Irondale,  468;  Ticonde 
roga,  469;  Schroon,  472,  Mi 
nerva,  473 ;  rolling  mills,  453, 
456,  462. 

Iron  ore  beds,  372;  Adirondac  dis 
trict,  372;  remarks  on,  377;  in 
Minerva,  380;  Schroon,  382; 
Crown  Point,  383 ;  Arnold,  439, 
441,  448;  Finch  &  Winter,  448; 
New  Russia,  459 ;  in  Lewis,  461. 

Iroquois,  their  eloquence  and  pro 
gress,  2 ;  armor,  16 ;  engaged  in 
the  royal  cause,  143;  confede 
racy,  57. 

Jay,  213. 

Johnson,  William,  at  Lake  George, 

53;  at  battle  Lake  George,  62; 

want  of  magnanimity,  63;   at 


INDEX. 


501 


Johnson,  continued  — 

Ticonderoga,  90;  appointed  to 
command  army,  44;  desires  to 
relieve  William  Henry,  73. 

Johnson,  Col.,  joins  Brown  at  Ti 
conderoga,  187. 

Johnson,  Sir  John,  expedition 
against  Mohawk  valley,  189. 

Judges,  Supreme  Court,  492 ;  county 
and  Special,  494. 

Kaolin,  420 ;  factory,  459. 

Keene,  212. 

Keese,  Oliver,  Jr.,  274,  284. 

Keeseville,  horse  nail  works,  452  ; 
Twine  factory  at,  458 ;  hosiery 
factory,  flouring  mills,  and  mi 
nor  works,  459. 

Kelley,  J.  E.,  250,  251. 

Kellogg,  R.  C.  275,  284. 

Kingsley,  G.  C.,  238. 

Knox,  Gen.  Henry,  moves  cannon 
to  Boston,  138. 

Knox,  M.  V.  B.,  274. 

Krom,Capt.,266,  272. 

Labradorite,  370. 

La  Caron,  20,  23. 

La  Due,  W.,  239. 

Laffln,  B.,  239. 

Lake  Chaniplain,  321. 

Lakes,  interior,  323 ;  Paradox,  324  ; 
Placid,  324,  George,  327 ;  Ava 
lanche,  381. 

Lansing,  W.,  245,  249. 

Lennon,  M.,  245,  248. 

Lewis,  211. 

Limestone,  419,428. 

Livingstone,  A.  C.  H.,  232,  241. 

Livingstone  and  Brown  155 ;  take 
Chambly,  144. 

Livingstone,  R,  W.,  274,  281,  282, 
290,  295. 

Logs,  stripped  of  bark,  473 ;  floating, 
434,  435,  452,  474 ;  Warren  co., 
476 ;  Minerva,  476. 

Long,  Colonel,  at  battle  of  Lake 
George,  58. 

LongueiCCarleton  defeated  by  War 
ner  at.  146. 

Loring,  Captain,  constructs  fleet, 
108  ;  destroys  French  vessels  at 
Valcour,  109. 

Louisburg,  fall  of,  101. 

Lumber  trade,  433,  434. 

Lyman,  General,  at  battle  of  Lake 
George,  62. 

Lyou,  W.,  244,  246. 


McCall,  P.,  238. 

McCormick,  J.,  239,  293, 294. 

McCoy,  J.  W.,  258. 

McGinnis,  Captain,  killed  at  Lake 
George,  61. 

McGuire,  J.  G.,  292,  293. 

Mclntire,  S.  P.,  239. 

McKenzie,  Col.,  252. 

McKie,  John,  Jr.,  232,  237. 

McLean,  Col.,  returns  to  Quebec, 
149 ;  and  defends  at,  151. 

McLean,  J.  B.,  244. 

McLean,  P.  V.  K,  275,  289,  290. 

McMullen,  Lt.,  sent  back  to  Crown 
Point  by  Rogers,  106. 

Me  Williams,  M.,  249. 

Manufacturing  works  at  Birming 
ham,  459 ;  at  New  Russia,  459 ; 
Crown  Point,  469 ;  at  Ticonde 
roga,  470 ;  Keeseville,  452,  458 ; 
at  Clintonville,  450 ;  in  Schroon, 
472 ;  in  Essex,  476 ;  Wilmington, 
440 ;  Bloomingdale,  440;  J.  &  J. 
Rogers,  441,  442,  444. 

Marin,68;  exploits,  69  ;  at  Fort  Ann, 
96. 

Marsh  hay,  125. 

Merrill,  W.  E.,  245,  249. 

Miller,  George,  281. 

Mineral  springs,  343. 

Mineralogy  and  geology,  372. 

Minerals  and  rock  of  the  Adirondac 
district,  379. 

Minerals,  list  of,  421. 

Minerva,  212. 

Moffitt,  S.,  254,  289. 

Mohawks  on  St.  Lawrence,  2 ;  con- 
quest  of,  2  ;  their  hatred  of  the 
French,  2 ;  defeat  De  Cour- 
celles,  29 ;  capture  Montreal, 
31 ;  hereditary  boundaries,  37  ; 
at  battle  of  Lake  George,  58; 
wish  to  pursue  French,  62;  at 
Ticonderoga,  90. 

Molang,  68. 

Mondelet,  Charles,  492. 

Montcalm,  early  history  of,  66  ;  ar 
rives  at  Quebec,  69 ;  takes 
Oswego,  69 ;  holds  Indian  coun 
cil,  70;  takes  William  Henry, 
71 ;  receives  order  St.  Louis,  73 ; 
connection  with  massacre  at 
William  Henry,  75;  his  subse 
quent  measures,  77 ;  his  opinion 
of  Yaudreuil,  80 ;  interference 
with,  80 ;  thinks  of  evacuating 
Ticonderoga,  90;  victory  of, 
94;  activity  of,  96;  quotes 


502 


INDEX. 


Montcalm,  continued  — 

Mirabeau,  99 ;  despondency  of, 
103 ;  his  letter,  103,  109 ;  death 
of,  110 ;  strictures  on,  111  ;  opi 
nion  of  Canadians,  100 ;  disgusts 
the  Indians,  101 ;  repairs  to 
Quebec,  104;  letter  on  cession 
of  Canada,  116 ;  Bougainville 
and  Pitt,  correspondence  on, 
490 ;  epitaph  of,  491 ;  letters  of, 
492. 

Montgomery,  Richard,  115;  ap 
pointed  brigadier-general  under 
Schuyler,  142;  seizes  Isle  aux 
Noix,  142;  assumes  the  com 
mand,  144 ;  his  early  life,  144 ; 
attacks  St.  John's,  144;  seizes 
Sorel,  and  takes  St.  John's, 
145 ;  his  trials,  147 ;  his  in 
fluence,  148;  appears  before 
Quebec,  152 ;  Ids  policy,  153  ; 
attacks  the  city,  154;  killed, 
155  ;  burial  of,  158. 

Montreal,  20. 

Montreuil  at  Lake  George,  60. 

Mooers,  J.  H.,275. 

Moose,  the,  349. 

Morgan  at  the  attack  of  Quebec, 
155. 

Moriah,  account  of,  211. 

Mould,  H.  M.,  275. 

Moulding  sand,  446. 

Mount  Defiance,  178. 

Mount  Hope,  180,  181 ;  recaptured 
by  Brown,  187. 

Mount  Independence,  178. 

Mountains,  318;  Pharaoh,  Dix, 
Bald,  318;  Marcy,  319;  Mc- 
Intire,  Dial,  Seward,  McMar- 
tin,  Col  den,  Keene,  Whiteface, 
320. 

Munroe,  Colonel,  capitulates  at  Wil 
liam  Henry,  73. 

Murray,  J.,  249. 

Myers,  Corporal,  249. 

Nail  works,  442, 444, 445,  448. 
Nails,  at  Keeseville,  453. 
Natural  curiosities,  329. 
Natural  History,  346. 
Nelson,  W.  G.,  459. 
Newcomb,  213. 
Newman,  T.  W.,  250,  251. 
New  Netherland,  cession  of,  27. 
Nichols,  G.  F.,  274,  276,  280,  281, 

282,  287,  288,  290. 
Ninety-sixth   regiment,  history  of, 

250 ;  officers  of,  mustered  out, 

255. 


Norris,  Capt.,  276. 

North  Elba,  description  of,  214  ;  In 
dian  remains  in,  216;  Iron  works, 
216;  progress  of,  216;  negro 
settlement  in,  217. 

North  Hudson,  212. 

Northern  New  York,  account  of,  336. 

Northrup,  H.  J.,  275. 

Norton,  F.,  245. 


O'Callashan,  E.  B.,  30,  110. 

O'Connor,  D.  A.,  275,  289. 

One  Hundred  and  Eighteenth  Regi 
ment,  history  of,  273 ;  officers  of 
mustered  out,  290. 

Onontio,  73. 

Ormsby,  L.,  231,  237,  238. 

Orr,  G.  S.,  244,  248. 

Paints,  423. 

Paris,  treaty  of,  116. 

Parker,  Col.,  defeated  at  Sabbath 
Day  Point,  69. 

Parkman,  25. 

Parmerter,  Jacob,  274,  283. 

Partisans,  French,  67. 

Patent,  Field's,  123. 

Patents,  296. 

Pattee,  Rev.  Mr.,  421. 

Peabody,  O.  D.,  231,  237,  238. 

Pean,  Madam,  79. 

Pease,  C.  M.,  258. 

Pentield,  J.  A.,  257,  260,  265. 

Peru  Steel  and  Iron  Company,  449. 

Phelps,  Walter,  Jr.,  232,  238. 

Phillips  occupies  Lake  George,  186. 

Physical  geography,  317. 

Pierce,  E.,  250,  254. 

Pierce,  J.  H,  274,  282. 

Pierson,  C.  B.,  256. 

Pioneer  population,  changes  of,  129. 

Place,  Sergeant,  278. 

Plattsburg  Republican,  169. 

Plumbago,  see  Graphite. 

Poke  O'  Moonshine,  330. 

Pontgrave,  11. 

Popular  organization  formed,  129. 

Porphyry,  420. 

Port  Royal  founded,  9. 

Porteous,  J.  G.,  275,  287. 

Potashes,  435. 

Potter,  J.  F.,  335. 

Potter,  Lieut.,  289. 

Pouchot,  106. 

Pourtraincourt,  9. 

Prescott,  General,  capitulates  Mon 
treal,  147. 

Pringle,  Capt.,  attacks  Arnold,  168. 


INDEX. 


503 


Proclamation,  king  of  Great  Britain, 

Oct.,  1763,  121. 

Province,  a  new,  contemplated,  130. 
Prnyn,  C.  E.,  275,  283,  284. 
Public  improvements,  484;  inland 

navigation,  484 ;  Rail  Roads,  484; 

Plank  Roads,  487. 
Putnam,  battle  of,  near  Whitehall, 

83. 
Putnam's  capture  and  perils,  97. 

Quarries,  428 ;  Keeseville,  429 ; 
McOmbers,  430;  Clark's,  430; 
Essex,  431 ;  Frisbie,  431 ;  West- 
port,  431 ;  Crown  Point,  431 ; 
Ticonderoga,  431. 

Quebec,  10 ;  battle  of,  110 ;  trade 
with,  432. 

Rail  Roads,  486 ;  Moriah  and  West- 
port,  486  ;  Whitehall  and  Platts- 
burgh,  486;  Northern  Air  line, 
486. 

Rainbow  Falls,  333. 

Ralph,  Alexander,  374. 

Rangers,  American,  67. 

Ransom,  Capt.,  279,  282. 

Rebellion,  the,  219. 

Refugees  burn  Boquet  settlement, 
189. 

Regent  of  University,  495. 

Reggio,  Great  rock  Regione  or 
Rogeo,  37. 

Renner,  L.  F.,  258. 

Reptiles,  360. 

Reynolds,  M.,  282. 

Richards,  8.  F.,  274. 

Riggs,  Capt.,  276. 

Rivers,  326;  Hudson,  327 ;  outlet  Lake 
George,  327  ;  Putnam  creek,  327; 
Boquet,  327 ;  Au  Sable,  328. 

Roads,  public,  205. 

Roberval,  5. 

Roche,  De  La,  5. 

Rogers,  a  royalist,  98  ;  expedition 
against  St.  Francis  Indians, 
105;  incursions  into  Canada, 
114. 

Rogers  &  Putnam,  battle  with 
Marin  near  Fort  Ann,  96. 

Rogers,  exploits  of,  63  ;  note  to  Mont- 
calm,  54 ;  defeat  of,  82 ;  slide,  82. 

Rogers,  J.  &  J..  their  business,  445, 
446. 

Rogers,  Platt,  ferry  and  bridges, 
205. 

Rowe,  C.  W.,  245,  247,  249. 

Royal  Savage  raised,  169. 

Ryswick,  treaty  of,  40. 


Sabbath  Dav  point,  69. 

Sable  Iron  Company,  441. 

St.  Armands,  214. 

St.  Clair,  Arthur,  in  charge  of  Ticon 
deroga,  177 ;  evacuates  it,  182 ; 
suspended,  186. 

St.  Frederick  built  by  French,  42. 

St.  Pierce,  killed,  61. 

St.  Sacrament,  Lake,  50. 

Salisbury,  Prof.,  344. 

Salt  traffic,  433. 

Sanborn,  J.  H.,  250. 

Sanger,  W.  H.,  293,  294. 

Saunders,  Lt.,  289. 

Scalps  borne  to  Montcalm,  83. 

Schenck,  J.  W.,  238. 

Schenectady,  relieves  French  army, 
29  ;  burning  of,  31. 

Schroon,  name  of,  212. 

Schuyler,  Gen.  P.,  142  ;  commands 
northern  department,  177 ;  his 
forces,  177;  superseded,  186; 
appointed  to  command  Cana 
dian  army,  142. 

Schuyler,  John,  attacks  La  Prairie,33. 

Schuyler,  Peter,  attacks  La  Prairie, 
34,  35. 

Seaman,  J.  R.,  231,  238,  274,  289. 

Second  Cavalry,  293. 

Senators,  state,  493. 

Seventy-seventh  Regiment,  244;  his 
tory  of,  244;  officers  mustered 
out,  249. 

Sheldon,  O.  F.,  130. 

Sheriffs,  493. 

Sherman,  Sam,  275,  282. 

Sherman,  S.  D.,  238. 

Ship  yards,  475. 

Sillery,  Murray,  defeated  at,  114. 

Silver,  419. 

Smith,  Gerrit,  217-219. 

Smith,  W.  H.,  232,  241. 

Snow  shoes,  battle  on,  83. 

Spalding,  Henry,  260. 

Split  Rock,  332. 

Squirrels,  350. 

Stannard,  Gen.,  252;  report,  288. 

Stark,  exploits  of,  64. 

Statistics,  agriculture  and  political, 
495,  496. 

Stephens,  Lt.,  abandons  Rogers,  107 

Stetson,  M.  V.  B.,  254, 289. 

Stevens,  C.  E.,  244,  245,  248,  249. 

Stevenson,  W.  H.,  275,  276,277,  281, 
282. 

Stone,  Dennis,  282. 

Stone,  J.  S.,  275,  282. 

Strong,  T.  M.,  237,  238. 

Subterranean  passages,  334. 


504 


INDEX. 


Sullivan,  Gen.,  assumes  command  of 
American  army,  160;  burns  ves 
sels  at  St.  Johns  and  retreats  to 
Crown  Point,  161. 

Surrogates,  494. 

Suitor,  J.  A.,  239. 


Tanneries,  473;  in  North  Hudson, 
474;  Minerva,  475. 

Tar,  made  for  Amherst  &  Mc- 
Donough,  109. 

Teller,  M.  L.,  238. 

Thirty-eighth  regiment,  241;  privates 
in,  killed  and  wounded  at  Bull 
run,  242. 

Thirty- fourth  regiment,  329. 

Thomas,  Gen.,  takes  command  at 
Quebec,  159;  retreats  and  dies 
at  Sorel,  160. 

Thomas,  G.  T.,  231,232,  236,  238. 

Thompson,  Prof.  Zadock,  215,  251, 
425,  426. 

Thompson's  Vermont,  178. 

Thoreau,  25. 

Three  Rivers,  repulse  at,  160. 

Ticonderoga,  account  of  French 
works  at,  89,  211 ;  De  Levis  ar 
rives  at,  90 ;  battle  of,  91 ;  inci 
dent  at,  95 ;  notice  of  the  captors 
of,  138 ;  taken,  104;  ruins  at,  112 ; 
works  at,  178 ;  bridge  at,  178 ; 
effect  of  capture  of,  185. 

Town  meetings,  how  conducted,  204. 

Townsend,Adjt.  General,  killed,  104. 

Treadway,  W.,  274,  282,  288. 

Treasurers,  county,  494. 

Twenty-second  regiment,  232. 


Utrecht,  treaty  of,  28. 


Yalleau,  J.,  238. 

Valley  of  the  Hudson,  471. 

Vaudrueil,  attack  on  William  Henry 
65;  at  Quebec,  111;  persecute( 
in  France,  112;  charges  agains 
Montcalm,  80 ;  his  controversies 
with  Montcalm,  100 ;  surrenders 
Montreal,  116. 

Vaudrueil  the  younger  arrives  a 
Ticonderoga,  95. 

Vermont,  negotiations  of  leaders 
with  British,  190;  remarks  or 


Vermont,  continued  — 

negotiations,      199 ;       supplies 

Gates,  174. 
Viall,  J.  G.,  257. 
Volunteers,  call  for,  210,  231. 


Waldron,A.  P.,  250. 

Walker,  T.,  242. 

War  declared  between  France  and 

England,  63. 
Wardner,  K,  250,  253. 
Warner,  Seth,   covers  retreat  from 
Canada,  161;  takes  Crown  Point, 
136. 

Warren,  W.,  242. 
Washburn,  M.  L.,  274. 
Washington  county  formed,  203. 
Watson,  Elkanah,417;  on  the  burial 

of  Howe,  88. 
Webb,   General,  letter  to  Monroe, 

489 ;  his  pusillanimity,  72. 
Weed,  Alfred,  250,  251. 
Weidman,  M.,  238. 
Wells,  C.  W.,  275. 
Weston,  Clifford,  246. 
Westport,  account  of,  211. 
Wetmore,  G.,  238. 
Whale,  skeleton  of,  426. 
Whiskey,  435. 

White,  Major,  262,  264, 266, 268. 
Whiting,    Col.,  rallied  fortunes  at 

Lake  George,  58. 
Wickham,  B.  F.,  237,  238. 
Wild  land  near  Whileface  Mt.,  435. 
Wilderness,  northern,  335  ;  vestiges 
of  roads  and  bridges  in,  32 ;  navi 
gation  in,  484. 

William  Henry,  fort,  attacked  and 
taken  by  Montcalm.  74;  massa 
cre  at,  75. 

Williams,  Ephraim,  56 ;  killed,  58. 
Willsboro',    account  of,    211;    size 
of,  204 ;  Melchior  Hoffnagle  first 
supervisor,  and  Daniel  Sheldon 
first  town  clerk,  204. 
Wilmington,  214. 
Wilmington  notch,  330. 
Wilson,  L.  E.,  238. 
Wing,  E.  A.,  282. 
Wolfe  at  Quebec,  110. 
Woods,  conflagration  of,  436. 
Wooster,    David,    132 ;    brigadier- 
general  under  Schuyler,  132 
Wright,  J.  B.,  231. 


